#3,314 in Tools & Home Improvement
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Reddit mentions of 3M 05442 Stikit 2-3/4 x 5" Soft Hand Block
Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 2
We found 2 Reddit mentions of 3M 05442 Stikit 2-3/4 x 5" Soft Hand Block. Here are the top ones.
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Provides excellent control during paint prep and other fine-grade sanding applicationsTough yet flexible molded foam construction allows for block sanding on flat surfaces or in contoursEasy release blue vinyl face maintains consistent contact with work surfaceAccepts Stikit sheets for quick change-outsRolls or sheets won’t slip for effective, smooth sanding
Specs:
| Color | Yellow |
| Height | 8 Inches |
| Length | 8 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Release date | October 2011 |
| Size | 1 |
| Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
| Width | 8 Inches |
Now that you've done structural work, you want to fill the other side. I'm not a fan of bondo (polyester) - it cracks when you look at it wrong and it doesn't bend at all. Polyester fillers are for pinholes at most 1-2mm in diameter.
Instead, use resin mixed with a polyethylene balloon filler - this allows it to be sandable like bondo but takes overnight to set obviously since it's epoxy resin, but actually bonds to the underlying fiberglass and it far more flexible and structurally sound. Mix in around 1:1 with resin, it should nearly stand on it's own (think baking meringue) so it doesn't run when applied to the outer surface of your part. Dry overnight, sand by hand with 80 grit, repeat until you have a surface you are happy with painting.
Bondo is literally the last step you do 1h beforehand, just run it with the rubber squeegee into all the little pinholes.
As for painting, lots of guides on this... Generally you'll want everything at least down to old primer before painting, work through the grits. 80/120/180 at least and 220, you can use a festool or good soft palm sander for big spots like a bellypan but at least 75% of it is done by hand with a soft block and sandpaper. Use your hand or sander around corners and it will not turn out, trust me. Clean meticulously with acetone and then tack wipes before priming. Then sand primer with 120 grit and then paint.
This process took me about 30-35 hours of work over a month, I did around 30 structural repairs and 25-30 fills on the outside.
Parts list:
Last words - patience here. You are the master of the engineered product - you can take it down and add to it as many times as you want if you screw up. Doing the structural repairs in pieces, small batches of resin mixing, just take your time and do a couple hours of work, let it cure overnight, then sand and do some more.
PPE is NOT optional. (masks, gloves, etc).
Also your arms will be itchy from the fiberglass dust for eternity.
Edit: cleaned things up a bit.
Can't remember if I did 2 or 3 coats. The clear I bought is made to go on thick so I didn't do as many as I would have for a different kind.
Wet sanding is easy. It seems scary and after you start and see what the paint looks like it can feel like this will never get better if it's your first time but don't be afraid.
First tip is to never use just your hand and sand paper. Always use some kind of pad. I got a small flexible one made for automotive sanding and it's great. Like this one but mine is oval shaped and not squared. Thankfully the Miata doesn't have huge areas so it's not hard to do by hand.
Second make sure the surface is perfectly clean before sanding. If you have been driving the car at all it's a good idea to give it a bath and clay the car to make sure the paint is perfectly clean before sanding.
I went 800-1500-2000. Then used my DA polisher with Meguiars M105 compund and a yellow pad, then Meguiars M205 Polish with a white pad.
/r/autodetailing has great FAQ section with all the products and instructions on how to go at it. H[ere is the link straight to the stuff they suggest to use.] (https://www.reddit.com/r/autodetailing/wiki/recommended#wiki_paint_correction_kit)