Reddit mentions of Battery Holder with Lead Wire, 1 x AAA Cell Pack of 10

Hey, thanks! Sorry for the late reply, didn't expect this post to get much attention. Lol.

Here are the steps I took (in order):

• Sketch your build or design. Get a general idea of how you want the sides, front, back, and endcap to look. And where you want the electronics to go. That includes the button, battery, and LED placement.
  
  
• Make sure that the parts you order FIT inside your main body PVC. The Custom Saber Shop has this for the LED that will fit nicely inside my main body. I'll post my entire order from TCSS below this comment as a reply. And decide how you want to power your build (AA, AAA, or a Li-Ion battery). For ease, put the batteries at the end cap.
  
  
• Decide how big you want the body and the shroud (outer PVC) to be. I used 1'' PVC as the body and 1-1/4'' PVC for the shroud. Both are the white SCH-40 PVC. You can include other materials for your build if you choose to do so. I didn't include anything else but PVC for my hilt.
  
  
• Go to your local ACE or Home Depot to select PVC's that will most resemble or help craft your hilt. Pick whatever screws you want for the attaching of the shroud to the body just as long as the length of the screws are within boundaries of the smallest PVC diameter. But get a screw with a big enough diameter to press your lightsaber blade firmly against the hilt. Get a screw or two that will press the LED module to stay in place. I winded up going to ACE for screws and HD for the PVC. And you might as well pick out the spray paint if you choose.
  
  
• Get some craft paper (any really as long it doesn't have holes in them) and wrap one around the larger PVC and make sure to tape it. Now that you have that cylinder paper, press it smoothly to make it flat. Copy your design on just one half of the paper and cut with scissors. Include the placement for the screws, I forgot to do so in my build. Do so and you will get results like this.
  
  
• Over the actual PVC in which you'll be making the design, trace your craft paper on it with a sharpie. Make sure your craft paper fits nicely with the diameter of PVC for ease of tracing.
  
  
• Once you have all traces laid out then you can begin cutting the PVC with a Dremel / rotary tool (they're the same thing). For some cuts, it might be easier to use a hacksaw. Pre-drill holes for the screws. Make sure your drill bit is exactly the same diameter as the screw. The same thing goes for the button(s). If the button still doesn't fit sand it a bit with the Dremel.
  
  NOTE: If your battery pack does not fit inside your PVC main body sand around the PVC from the inside in a circular motion (move upward if you have to) until the battery pack fits. I used three AAA for mine. I bought this battery pack from Amazon. They fit nicely after some sanding in my PVC. Make sure there is still some friction so the battery packs don't go swinging up and down.
  
  
• After cleaning the dust off, you may apply the spray paint to each piece. Use some filler primer spray paint to hide any cuts or imperfections on your PVC designs before applying the main colors. Let it dry completely. Once it's dry completely you can add some weathering.
  
  
• For installing the electronics see this video. If you want a switch that lights up, see this video and/or this video. Rob is really great at explaining the steps for beginners. Since I already have experience with electronics I could skip these steps for this project. I will note that you could use an Arduino Nano to program the AV momentary switch and the LED if you have one around but does require some programming skills (the coding isn't long). If you still want to use the M-to-L converter, use my sketch to help you out. Edit: #7 & #8 are just the for the remaining wires on the button. It doesn't matter where either wire goes here. They are just for the buttons inputs.
  
  NOTE: Keep a track of wire management. Too much wire can cause electronics to push against one another too much. I fell into this problem. 24 AWG to 22 AWG will do fine. And USE heat shrink as Rob advises, it will make a difference as time goes on.
  
  
• And once it's all said and done, enjoy!
  
  WARNING: Wear a breathing mask to avoid PVC dust in your lungs and wear goggles! And make sure to not breathe in any fumes from the PVC because the Dremel will heat it up you do not let the PVC cooldown in between cuts or if you sand for too long. For the best protection do this outside if you can and shower afterward.

I'm using these.

They will fit into 5/8" ID tubing with the LED strip, but it's kind of tight. I'm only placing about half of one holder in the 5/8": the rest of the electronics are inside the connector. The full 3/4" would be a lot better if you could go that big.