Reddit mentions of Blue Sea Systems 187 Series, 285 Series & Klixon Circuit Breakers, 187 Series, Surface Mount, 200A DC

Here is the list of all the stuff i got:

1. 1/0 welding wire - 50 ft (used ~44ft) from https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA2
   
2. Swedge on tool for crimping the lugs on the wire from https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF6657706:OR:04040
   
3. 1 OT coppers lugs - 10 pc from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/copper-lug-ot-38-stud-tin-plated-p-197.html
   
4. Clamps - 6pc from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/rubber-coated-clamp-34-inch-p-643.html
   
5. Wire loom - 20 ft from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/wire-loom-black-nylon-12-inch-p-240.html
   
6. Heatshrink - 1 black from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/3m-shrink-tube-black-34-inch-p-216.html
   
7. Heatshrink - 2 red from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/3m-shrink-tube-red-34-inch-p-223.html
   
8. Cord grips - 3/4" trade size mcmaster.com part number 69915K56
   
9. Longer j-hooks for the house (2nd battery), the ones that came with slee were a bit short for my batter - mcmaster.com part number 98760A111
   
10. Mil spec battery terminal - 2 pc Positive - mcmaster.com part number 7738K1
    
11. Mil spec battery terminal - 1 pc Negative - mcmaster.com part number 7738K2
    
12. Blue seas ML ACR 7622
    
13. Blue seas circuit breaker - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    I think thats pretty much it, i will edit anything else if remember it.
    
    This all could be done in one day and you dont need a garage to do it.
    Good luck!
    

There was a post not too long ago by someone who killed his lithiums because even though his inverter was on a switch, his raspberry pi or something was not and that drained it during a cloudy week. So don't forget undervoltage protection on that DC fuse block!

Edit: Also, I would take some of those savings and get better-quality fire-prevention devices. I don't trust safety devices with 26% one-star reviews.

Better options:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker+dc&qid=1573679773&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Tocas-Circuit-Switchable-Waterproof-Flush-Mount/dp/B06Y4172LP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker+dc&qid=1573679773&sr=8-3

I know the solar charge controllers support it, but I wouldn't run the load through the charge controller. I would run the battery load directly to your positive and negative bus bars (through a master on/off switch and a fuse). Personally I don't think that the features that it provides is worth the extra dependency of having the load go through an unrelated sensitive electronics piece. Don't take my opinion on this as gospel. Make your own choice.

Your charge controller should be as close as possible to the batteries. Hopefully in the same box/cabinet, and close enough that you shouldn't need a fuse between them.

Are you going to be able to charge off the alternator or off shore power?

Consider a battery monitor separate from the charge controller. That way you can track all power going into/out of the battery, regardless of source.

Like TimelessNY said, you likely don't need the fuse to the panels. I have a MC4 fuse on my roof, to break the circuit if one of the wires cuts through and shorts out on the chassis. But you shouldn't need a fuse to prevent overloading the wires with load.

Personally I went with Victron for the MPPT and battery monitor. the bluetooth integration is super awesome convenient. Don't feel like if you are getting renogy panels you need renogy controllers too.

I don't think that your 100A fuse will be able to handle a 3000W surge power to the inverter. Unless you get a long delay breaker like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW . Also, put the fuse between your battery and the inverter as close to the battery as possible. On the battery side of the switch. ideally in the battery box.

For AC distribution, it depends on which inverter you have. Does it have a hardwire capability? Mine does, so I set up 3 busses, one for live, one for neutral and one for ground. I hardwired my outlets (and my TV) into these buses.

Which isolator do you have? Depending on what you have, wiring strategies could differ.