Reddit mentions of C2G USB Extension Cable - USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension Cable, Black (6 Inches) - 52119

Stratux is good enough for a student starting off, that doesn't own a plane. My instructor has a Sentry and we have gotten 2 false alarms for Carbon Monoxide which we acted on. And in the past 3 weeks it's been turning off mid flight. So now my instructor has just been connecting to my Stratux and keeping his Sentry off and only using it in case the stratux acts odd.

My recommendation are these with it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJG2ZYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EROIUEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and you will have to use something like makexyz to print a suction cup mounted antenna holder.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1720290

SuctioncupmountVK162only.STL

makexyz.com

you'll need to get it made with ABS & make sure you select 100% infill.

you can find suction cups that fit it at Lowes, but not home depot or staples. I tried both.

the advantage of the external GPS is you keep the unit out of the direct sunlight, and way better reception. To use the external GPS you'll have to unplug the internal GPS, if you use that USB extender. It will just stick out of the case through the provided hole.

I had two internal GPS's perform very poorly. I have one of them sitting on my desk right now. It's the Stratux GPYes 2.0.

The internal GPS would never get better than 10M accuracy, but on 5 straight flights the best it was connecting was 100+M accuracy.

With the external GPS I've been getting 3M accuracy at the worst.

I did have it lose connection the other day, which resulted in me having to assign a new static IP and then it started working.

The advantage of the static IP with the Stratux is your device iphone, ipad, etc will keep its LTE data connection active if it has one. If you use the automatic IP option you'll lose LTE, which sucks for sitting on the ground.

Let me know if you need any more info.

Would you recommend getting something like this?

I have a 360-to-PS4 converter, and it works great. Why spend $150 when you can spend $35?

If you do opt for the converter, get a small (6-inch) USB A male to USB A female cable, to use as strain relief so the weight of the converter and fightstick plug doesn't damage your USB port.

Oh I forgot, the adapter I showed you has a quirk. It is too fat to fit into the groove where the USB ports are hidden on the PS4. You need a USB extension cable to fix the problem. Something like this maybe.

Any of the numerous cheap USB audio dongles on Amazon will work just fine. I use this one with one of these USB extension pigtails to keep it from blocking the adjacent USB ports. Works just fine on a Pi or anything else I've plugged it into.

I was having trouble finding something like that too, but this is something that might work:

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-52119-USB-Extension-Cable/dp/B00CJG2ZYM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3+inch+usb+extension&qid=1571530375&sr=8-5

Theoretically, if you use this, you could attach something to connect it to a key chain.

This is what I use to connect my A50 to my PS4 Pro. (two front ports of the PS4 Pro are USB 3.0) Not sure if it'll fix the issue with your laptop but it's worth a shot.

C2G 52119 USB Extension Cable - USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension Cable, Black (6 Inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJG2ZYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XJ1MDbC8JWK3D

That's correct, the USB dongle does NOT fit in the Vive headset, even without the cable cover panel thingy. The dongles are too wide and fat.

If putting it in the headset was an absolute must, you could always get something like this .

I also haven't tried pushing the limits on range. It could be that these work pretty well through a wall or two if your machine is far away.

Thanks for the info! I figured that was the case, just didn’t want to go through removing the radio if I could avoid it.

I’ll probably go ahead an add a USB extension cable to prevent these headaches in the future. Would one of these extensions cause any problems?

The first step is to gut a GameCube. This is a relatively simple process except that Nintendo uses proprietary screws. As long as they're not screwed in too tight you can build your own (temporary) screwdriver using a plastic pen and a lighter. Use the lighter to melt the plastic then jam it into the screw slot. It should cool into the shape of the screw. It might take a few rounds of melting to get every screw.

Once the cube is open it's pretty straight forward. You basically can throw out everything except the face plate. Keep working on dismantling until you have the shell separated from everything else.

Note: I don't have any pictures for the next few steps.

Now you need to make room for your components. The first step is to remove the edges/bumps on the inside of the purple shell. I borrowed a dremel to do this part. There are only two pegs that are important to keep untouched, and they can identified as being useful in the next step.

Next I started making a mount for the USB ports. I bought some plastic plates at a model / craft store and some glue made for plastics. After stacking several pieces on top of each other (totaling 3/4-1 inch in size?) I drilled holes into the plates matching the GameCube ports. Then cut two holes matching the two pegs mentioned previously. This will help keep your mount from moving. You optionally can paint visible side black to better match the GameCube's look.

The next step is to cut out a rectangle on the back of the GameCube and put your own plastic sheet in there. It needs to be strong enough to support a HDMI and CAT5 (optional) mounts. Use some screws (with washers) to attach your plate to the back of the GameCube.

Securing the USB mount is annoying. Basically you need to glue (I used hot glue) the plastic mount you made to the GameCube shell. Once that dries you place your USB extenders into your mount so it lines up with the GameCube slots.

Now the second most annoying part: cable management. You have to place the Raspberry Pi in the shell such that it can accept: 4 USB cables (GameCube ports), HDMI (rear plate), CAT5 (rear plate), and an outgoing power cable. Cable ties are your friend here, and the HDMI is your enemy. Once everything is tucked in tight you shouldn't have any more surprises.

The GameCube comes with a few compartments on its undercarriage which can be used to hold the micro-USB power cord. You can pop open the lid of the GameCube and throw your USB wall charger inside.

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That wall of text is how to set up the physical GameCube. The Raspberry Pi is another (and thankfully simpler) matter. The RetroPie project takes care of all of the hard work. You may have to install some drivers for 360 controllers, but I can't remember.

All in all the whole setup works great. If you have any more questions please let me know!

Very likely. You'll need one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/kenable-AT-Keyboard-PS-Adapter/dp/B003OSTBZA

as well as one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Active-Adapter-Keyboard-Mouse/dp/B008J56RVY

You'll probably want one of these to reduce the strain on your motherboard from having two adapters hanging off the back: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-52119-Extension/dp/B00CJG2ZYM

You need the "active" converter which takes care of converting the keyboard signal to USB. Most of the PS2 to USB adapters out there only connect the pins and rely on the keyboard to send the correct USB signals down the wire.