Reddit mentions of ChipQuik SMD1 Leaded Low Temperature Removal Kit

Give this a shot but mind your temperatures. 600-650F is all you need to back those out.

clip the straight pins short then apply some chipquik to the nubs - and heat it all at one time. It should only take about 10-15 seconds and the whole header assembly will just slide out.

Finish by cleaning up the through holes with plenty of flux and solder braid.

http://www.amazon.com/ChipQuik-SMD1-Leaded-Temperature-Removal/dp/B0019UZP7I

Chip Quik is your best friend for these kinds of jobs

http://www.amazon.com/ChipQuik-SMD1-Low-Temperature-Removal/dp/B0019UZP7I

ChipQwik - use it like solder. It mixes with the solder and lowers its melting point, making it stay molten longer. This is good for desoldering tiny things.

Flux pen - flux is a liquid that helps guide the solder. Any youtube video about soldering can provide an explanation.

Solder sucker - melt the solder, suck it up

Solder wick - melt the solder, soak it up.

You don't need to get these exact products, but they're all handy. You can get by without the chipqwik, but the rest should be in every soldering toolkit. Also remember that solder will like to move towards the soldering iron, so you can kind of use it to pick up any excess solder if you do it right.

I should note that I've never done a usb port before, so I can't guide you on exactly how to do it. I'm a bit of a newb myself. Just devour a few youtube tutorials, and try it. Soldering is really a skill learned by doing, and like I said, you have nothing to lose at this point. No point in being afraid to fail now.

Chip Quik is a low-temperature solder alloy. All you have to do is flood the pins with this stuff and your part will come right off. I have used it for large SMD devices with no trouble.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kyaz4Zrd78

http://www.amazon.com/ChipQuik-SMD1-Low-Temperature-Removal/dp/B0019UZP7I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411674018&sr=8-1&keywords=chip+quik

It is kind of expensive, but a little goes a long way.

That stuff looks good. Definitely pick up some desoldering braid and flux if you can afford it. Usually there is enough in the solder so you might be able to get away without it for now, but it helps a ton with the braid for fixing mistakes and great for heat transfer and stuff.

Edit: one more thing I thought of, heatshrink tube for wiring. Sorry to wreck your budget but now you'll have a good kit. All that's left is to get your skills up. :D

Edit 2: if you get serious and start repairing boards, this shit is literally magic for removing components because it stays liquid for longer and allows you heat multiple points at once. Check a video

There are also special solder alloys (see: chipquik) that melt rather low temperature and can aid in removing parts like that.

I ordered caps for both the DB-114 and the DB-212 at the same time, so you'll want to verify by counting the caps in your amp to be sure I've got them correct.

Here's the list of the parts I ordered that I believe went in the 212, it might be best to order a spare of everything but the multipart caps, just in case you find you clipped the leads too short or something:

2x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-EC2010X2-475 (multi-section filter caps, the big cans on top)

6x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-P-600V -- .022uF (smaller good-all, two on the input selector, 4 on the 12AX7s)

4x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-P-600V -- .1uF (big good-all, between the 7199 and 6V6s)

1x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-T-630V (Between case and neutral on mains input)

The reset of these are the standard electrolytics, if your amp is like mine, you should be able to spin the cardboard wrapping on them so you can read which is which without desoldering anything, keep track of polarization on them when you take them off:

2x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-ET50-50
2x https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-ET10-50

Not so sure on these counts.. I ordered 3x and 5x, but I believe the mono used one of each:
2x(?) https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-ET100-25-IL
4x(?) https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/C-ET4D7-350

If you've not worked on anything like this before, feel free to message me with any questions you have about doing it, and I'll help the best I can.

I highly recommend obtaining a proper desoldering vacuum gun, I've got an Aoyue 2702 station which did a pretty good job clearing the old solder out of the way. You can probably get a cheaper setup, but my first repair job on this amp using only desoldering braid was a real pain in the ass.

You may also want to pick up some chip-quik low-temp alloy like this:
http://www.amazon.com/ChipQuik-SMD1-Low-Temperature-Removal/dp/B0019UZP7I/

It came in very handy to remove the soldered tabs between the multi-part capacitors and the chassis, as I just couldn't get it melted otherwise. The metal would just carry all the heat away. Even with the easy melting chip-quik, it was still a two hand, high powered soldering iron job to get them free.

Also, you'll want some kind of a very pointy knife or tool that you don't care too much about to use to unwrap the leads as you work over the circuit. You will have to detach plenty of resistors and the like from at least one end as you go, to move them out of the way.

Just take your time with it, and only work on one component at a time, so you don't lose track of where things are all attached. Also, if you're going to get up and take a break, tack the parts back down first! And pay attention to which driver tubes your schematic shows vs. what is in use. The schematic for my DB-114 showed a 6U8 driver, but my amp is wired and labeled for the 7199, the pinouts aren't quite the same.

Also, tubes are HIGH VOLTAGE... Don't plug the thing in while you're working on it at all, unless you're 100% confident in your ability to not kill yourself. I also advise that you set up a dim bulb tester when you first fire it back up, just to make sure you aren't going to burn your house down with a bad short. http://www.ppinyot.com/dimbulb/dim_bulb_tester.htm

No, that's solder paste made by the same company. What I'm talking about is this stuff.

Edit: Oh, what you linked is low-temperature solder paste. Dunno the use case for that...but what I was talking about is the actual low-temperature solder wire that I linked.