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Reddit mentions of Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA M.2 (2280SS) Internal SSD, up to 560MB/s - CT500MX500SSD4
Sentiment score: 18
Reddit mentions: 43
We found 43 Reddit mentions of Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA M.2 (2280SS) Internal SSD, up to 560MB/s - CT500MX500SSD4. Here are the top ones.
or
- Sequential reads/writes up to 560/510 MB/s and random reads/writes up to 95k/90k on all file types
- Accelerated by micron 3D NAND technology
- Integrated power loss Immunity preserves all your saved work if the power unexpectedly gets cut
- AES 256 bit hardware based encryption keeps data safe and secure from hackers and thieves
- Crucial 5 year limited warranty
Features:
Specs:
| Color | Multicolor |
| Height | 0.05 Inches |
| Length | 3.15 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Release date | April 2018 |
| Size | 500GB |
| Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
| Width | 0.87 Inches |
For like $10 more you can get a really good NVME and 20gb more space. Of course only works if the motherboard has an nvme spot.https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1NRJX0INHGQTE&keywords=nvme%2Bcrucial%2Bp1&qid=1568095493&s=electronics&sprefix=nvme%2Bcrucial%2Celectronics%2C208&sr=1-2&th=1Edit: I linked the wrong drive. I meant to link the Crucial P1 but it's more than $10 more.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-500GB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2WBKXF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=crucial+p1+500gb&qid=1568096822&s=electronics&sr=1-1
Go for a Corsair RMx, Seasonic Focus Plus, or Evga G2/G3 PSU.
Go for the m.2 version to save two less cables, it's the same price on amazon link
Get a
860 evoCrucial MX500 500GB m.2 ssd instead of the 960 you've chosen.I thinkyou'll get a 500gb for less than the price of a 960 250gb. Either case, if you still decide to get 250gb, you'll save something. Also, as others have said, get a good 50-80$ air cooler instead of the NZXT you have chosen. Id recommend Noctua u12s, though check case clearances. Personally though, I won't recommend getting any other cooler other than the stock Wraith Stealth if you are new to PC building/tuning. The stock can boost it to 3.9 ghz on 1-2 cores, which should be enough.If you drop the aio and get a 250gb 860 evo, you may as well upgrade to a Vega 56 and get a hdd. Upgrading yopur GPU will give you much more frames than oc'ing your 2600. You should be able to snag a Vega 56 for a good deal if you'll monitor r/Amd or r/buildapcsales . Also, the Vega 56 should last considerably longer than the 580 and you'll still get 3 free games with it. The rest of the build is pretty good.
Also, good on you for getting a quality psu :)
Crucial MX500. It has DRAM cache.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077SQ8J1V/?tag=pcp0f-21
Things are kind of mixed up and I don't blame anyone who mixes them
NVMe is PCIe protocol that can run on x1 fine, although that would be slower than SATA on PCIe 2.0 and 1.0
Generally PCIe 3.0 x1 or 2.0 x2 (~1000MB/s) is where PCIe has better bandwidth than SATA
For PCIe storage to be detected to OS only a link(adapter or M.2) is required but to boot from PCIe storage using any link the motherboard's bios MUST support that features, if it doesn't then you will have to boot from another hard drive and use the NVMe SSD as additional partitions only while not being able to install an OS inside the SSD
About adaptors: since PCIe is only a link any M.2 adaptor would be passive without any chip, essentially just a port that SSD plugs into
With Sandy bridge PCIe booting wasn't supported in that platform so user won't be able to install OS into any drive that uses PCIe link directly
Chips in adaptors are usually external SATA controllers that allow for additional SATA ports, these can be alone or integrated into PCIe M.2 adaptors at a higher cost
Sandy bridge can boot from M.2 SATA even if board doesn't have any M.2 ports , an adaptor here would either be passive that requires power+sata cable just like an HDD require or an active adapter, there is a lot of configurations for these adaptors
An active adaptor isn't advised for if user will install SSD into these unless motherboard's SATA ports are SATA 2 version, because SATA 3 active adaptor is slower than native SATA 3 ports found on motherboards
TL;DR : get this adaptor and connect it to one of motherboard's SATA ports, buy a SATA M.2 SSD (Good units : Crucial MX500,Samsung 860 evo) and plug it into the adaptor's SATA M.2 port, you will be able to install OS and run just fine from it along side almost certainly finding newer motherboard's M.2 port supporting it without needing the adaptor + the adaptor will work as an expansion just fine in newer boards, you will find slower than advertised speeds if your motherboard has only SATA 2 but still you will benefit from SSD faster loading speeds
Of course 2.5" versions of mentioned drives is also a cheaper option, gives same speed as SATA M.2 since both are SATA just that my recommendation are based that you want M.2 port
u/CovaDax1
I bought an SSD but it’s very small. Like 4 inches long.
I’ve never built a pc before. Is this normal? This is what I got.
Hi,
With the upgrades you have listed, the Acer Aspire E 15 would indeed be fine option. If you want to replace the 2 GB stick, this 4 GB stick would be fine. Additionally, the Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2 SSD would be a good option for the boot drive, but you could for a smaller NVMe SSD if you wanted faster speeds.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Happy to help!
​
So specs aren't as important as form and function in this case, but I figured I'd get them out of the way first just in case you are curious:
Really the only elements that matter here as far as building a couch setup are motherboard and case, as they pertain to the form factor. I chose Mini-ITX to keep the size down, which helps the PC fit nicely under my TV alongside my consoles. The Elite 130 is big for an ITX case, but still got the job done for what I need. Specifically, I chose it for its ATX PSU and full size GPU support, in addition to its affordable price. For reference, ATX PSUs are generally the standard size power supplies for a PC. Smaller PSUs tend to command a significant premium compared to ATX PSUs of the same quality. Speaking premiums, you can end up paying a hefty premium for smaller and better designed ITX cases. just look at /r/sffpc if you want an example of how beautiful (and expensive) these things can get. There's some really awesome stuff in there, but honestly what you need will depend on your use case. If you're going to be doing any gaming, then a case that supports a GPU is a must, and you'll pay for cramming more power into a smaller space. However, since your current couch build is a Vista laptop, this may not be an issue for you at all!
In any case, deciding where you're going to put the PC is important. If size is a concern, there are still great options out there if you don't need too much performance. There are other Mini ITX builds that could accomplish this quite nicely, but if you don't need any PCIe slots at all, ASRock makes a beautiful Mini-STX machine called the DeskMini that is only 6"x6"x3"! I'm not 100% sure that the remote start I first mentioned would fit into this case, but I have a non-ASRock MiniSTX machine at home, so I can take a look and speculate if you'd like. And even if not, you could get that same function through Wake-On-LAN if you have an ethernet connection. Anyway, you can get a barebones model for $170 that supports the latest 8th and 9th gen Intel CPUs, but you'll need to add the CPU and SSD on your own. There are fully built models available, including AMD Ryzen models starting at $500, but again, depending on your needs, that may be more money than you need to spend. For instance, adding an Intel i3-8100 CPU for $135 and a Crucial SATA M.2 SSD for $63 brings you up to $368, and leaves plenty of upgradability down the line. Additionally, you could scale that price down further by lowering the SSD capacity, getting a Pentium CPU, buying used, etc. Let me know what you currently (and want to) do with your couch computer, and I'll be happy to help with a performance recommendation!
Moving on to peripherals, a wireless mouse/keyboard combo would certainly work well! There are plenty of bluetooth and USB dongle-based options on the market for you to consider. I personally use a Roccat Sova lapboard, which is wired, but I decided that was more important for me as it comes with USB ports for my headset and mouse. Plenty of options are available that are both cheaper and better suited for a wireless mouse and keyboard anyway, so don't feel like you need to go this route! Another product to consider is couch table. I used this model for my mouse before I learned about that Roccat lapboard, but I still love that table for couch use in general!
As for the display, I use my TV. It's a 4K TCL 55p607, which got great reviews for its price when I bought it. Full disclosure, TVs generally aren't as good as PC monitors when it comes to use with a PC. Refresh rates and input lag tend to be the biggest differentiating factors, but this video will do a far better job of explaining it than I can. Overall though, TVs as displays only get more viable every year! Just don't expect the budget set from Walmart to be as easy on the eyes as a high quality model. If you're going to be staring at it for hours at a time, it will likely be worth the investment to research and buy a better model! One other thing you will likely have to play with regardless of TV quality is visual scaling. Since default settings assume you are sitting a foot or two from the monitor, text and graphics will be very small at first. Customization options are getting better though; Windows has settings for text scaling now, and even has an automated tool to fix programs that aren't cooperating in this regard, but you will still likely have to tinker with settings in some programs to get things comfortably readable from the couch.
Something else to consider is audio, HDMI inputs, and overall technology compatibility. I have a surround sound setup via a Yamaha receiver. All my consoles (and my PC) plug into it, and it feeds HDMI to the TV. However, I ran into a snag on this front. My receiver is a few years old, and thus cannot support 4K at a refresh rate above 30Hz. Here's another TechQuickie video on refresh rates, and yet another about TVs faking better refresh rates (which should absolutely be disabled if you got this route). So since the receiver sits between the TV and the PC, that means that me getting both surround sound and 4K for my PC got very complicated. In the end, I decided to forego the 4K resolution and instead opt for the simplicity of sticking with 1080p at 60 Hz for my gaming PC. It ended up making sense to me since my hardware specs were better suited for 1080p gaming anyway, but again, higher resolution tends to be easier on the eyes when it comes to everyday PC use, so your mileage may vary.
​
Sorry this got long winded, but I hope this answers a lot of your questions. Feel free to reach out with any additional questions, I'd be happy to help in any way I can!
MX500 500gb 75~ https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=sr_1_4?m=AUJBRIGYRJ3Q8&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1543031158&sr=8-4&keywords=ssd
I don't know what your use case is, and a lot of these things are budget/availability dependent, especially since I don't know what country you are purchasing in, so take some of my recommendations with a grain of salt on those bases:
>Core i7 8086k or 9700k (leaning towards the 8086k though)
Depending on if you can get your hands on it, and if price is similar, the 9700k is superior in every non-synthetic performance metric. I'd really recommend you go with the 8 core chip if you can.
> ASUS ROG STRIX Z390-F H or E (May opt for the WiFi variant)
The Z390-H has worse VRM than the F and E, and no AI VID autoclock features, which can help you determine stable frequencies if you are interested in that. Even for the first point alone though, since the price points are so similar between the Strix boards, I'd disregard it as an option. The F and E both use the same Vishay VRM and are much better for stability and efficiency of your overclock. The WiFi is up to you.
>Kraken X62 (instead of the x72 or coolermaster as it seems to perform better and looks better)
The Kraken series are great, and I love the X62. It's expensive, and you can get the same performance from Corsair and EVGA, but looks are firmly in the NZXT camp here. No problems with that.
>G-Skill 8gb x 2 3200Mhz
Good value and high quality RAM, excellent choice.
>Samsung 970 Pro 512GB m.2
This is somewhat up to you, but NVMe drives have very minor performance benefits for most people. While the speed on paper looks like a massive step up, it is only in sequential read/write speeds, which is only really good for video editors working with extremely high quality footage (4K RAW and above, basically). If this rig is for gaming primarily, or general workstation use not involving massive files, you can save a significant amount of money and go with something like a Crucial MX500 SATA M.2 Drive. For everyday performance and gaming, you will notice zero difference between the two.
>Fractal meshify C or possibly the nzxt h500
Both are great cases. The Meshify is objectively better for temps, but IMO the H500 looks better. As someone who owns the NZXT H500i, I can tell you that temps have never been an issue for my 1080Ti or 9900k, but again, the choice is yours, both are great.
>Corsair TXM SERIES 650 w
This is fine, but the Corsair RX series (the fully modular variants) are made by a better OEM (RX from Seasonic, TX from FSP) and have more port flexibility. Sometimes it is worth looking at the 750W and 850W variants, as even though you don't need the additional power, they often go on sale for cheaper. Other options include Seasonic FOCUS and FOCUS Plus series, or the EVGA SuperNOVA G2 (or G3, but go with a 750W minimum on these as the fan can be loud under high load) series. Power supplies are one thing I recommend spending extra on, as they are the lifeblood of your power delivery, and the only component in your computer in which a failure can cause every other device in your PC to fail as well. Just some food for thought. You can go with the least expensive of any of the ones I listed above.
> Evga 2080 xc ultra
Depending on your resolution/refresh rate, this is a great card, although obviously expensive. 1080Ti's are definitely becoming harder to find now, but if you can get one for cheaper and don't plan on using the RTX features, its effectively the same card. This may no longer be possible, though.
If you can give me some additional information, like what country you are purchasing from, your overall budget, the workload you are using it for (if games, give me specific games you play or intend to play in the future), and the display resolution and refresh rate you are using now/what you want in the future (IE 1080p/144, 1080p/240, 1440p/144, 4k/60, etc), I can give more accurate overall recommendations on all of these parts.
Same price on amazon.ca if you want it from there:
SATA: https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6
SATA M.2: https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V
Yeah. A lot of people base their recommendations on whatever has the best professional reviews, without considering the products possible reliability.
Crucial mx500. You never hear of these being dead out of the box, and they have excellent long-term reliability
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V
Thanks! sorry to bother you, but this is the ssd if it changes anything: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077SQ8J1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just want to be 100% sure
> This is correct (with promo code BFAD130 - 11/23). As a side note, I like these drives, although the 860 EVO and MX500 are better at the same price
Do you think mx500 is worth extra $5? Can't decide between these two.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SQ8J1V
Is the MX500 worth the extra $5 over this ?
Awesome, cannot wait. Hopefully this will work as a proper 2nd HD:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SQ8J1V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a SATA m.2...am probably going to drop another $60 or whatever to get 16gb of 2666 sodimm memory as well and just call it. I see it as more of a "desktop that happens to have a portable 17" Freesync monitor in it" than a laptop, and it seems like everybody with that use case is happen.
Can't wait, I spent ages mulling over what PC to get and what specs to get, and this one just stood out at the price and I figured I'd never actually do it if I keep researching endlessly.
As long as it's respectably smooth in most games I'll be fine - it's being super alt-tab friendly that is most appealing.
Thanks for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it. Buying a computer can be a nightmare and it's super re-assuring to hear from somebody actually using it.
Last question, hopefully you don't mind - I've read that the RAM speed varies by build; if it has 2400 stock and I add 2666 to it in the extra 2 slots, does that cause any issues?
how about this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=twister_B07CC1KF6K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
fits in the m.2 on your board so you dont have to installit in your case.
Thanks everyone. I bought this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=twister_B07CC1KF6K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1). I am blown away by how much faster my PC is now. Everything loads near instantly.
More storage perhaps? [Get that m.2 slot filled.] (https://www.amazon.com.au/Crucial-MX500-Internal-Drives-CT500MX500SSD4/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=m.2+2280+ssd&qid=1554293579&s=electronics&sr=1-1)
Just wanted to point out that the Crucial P1 and Intel 660p are now priced competitively with standard SSDs. Kinda pointless still but why not at that price right?
MX500 for $69.95 on Amazon
P1 for $69.99 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=ssd+500gb&qid=1554174483&s=gateway&sr=8-14
More reputable brand and is an m.2. I think the ssd is overall better too.
What SSD did you get? I’m looking to upgrade as well. Would this one work? Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA M.2 Type 2280SS Internal SSD - CT500MX500SSD4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OLc4DbB76SPZ2
Actually forget what I said earlier. You've got an m.2 slot above your top PCIe slot, get a m.2 SATA drive and you just have to stick it in the slot and screw down one retaining screw. An MX500 may not be the best deal you can get but Crucial drives are generally solid
Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA M.2 Type 2280SS Internal SSD - CT500MX500SSD4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_ejJQDbEFG7GAE
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V
Would this work?
> LG 17Z990
So similar to this one, I'd gather:
https://www.sspdd.com/2019-08-29-lg-gram17/
LG doesn't publish their firmware, so I got nothing to go on there. I was hoping it was a thunderbolt or bios update, rather than the alternative.
What you can do is check the bios to make sure thunderbolt and TPM encryption is off. TPM is called I/O security on some devices.
Otherwise, it should just work, since it's a sata drive. Although your motherboard is nvme based.
There is the possibility that the crucial drive has an issue. The reviews are hit or miss for that thing.
https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/ct500mx500ssd1
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V?th=1
Posting the output of 'dmesg | grep -i error' when it's plugged in might help.
You didn't post your OS either, so that's all the diag I can list. Log locations vary per OS.
https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Machine-NUC8i7HVK-Radeon-Graphics/dp/B07BR3HCZ3/
or
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BR5GK1V/
2 x https://smile.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC4-21300-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B071KNKBQ1/
https://smile.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/
or you can get inwin chopin and put amd 2400g in it
Do you mean this one?
https://www.amazon.it/Crucial-MX500-CT500MX500SSD4-Interno-NAND/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I am no expert on this M2 format.
Thank you!
A 500GB 860 EVO is $87 right now. The reasonably equivalent Crucial MX500 is $85 for 500GB or $55 for 250GB, and it can fit in an M.2 slot if you have one.
The idea isn't "throw away all your hard drives and use SSDs exclusively" unless you are made of money. You just put your OS and your most used applications on a small SSD and store everything else on a hard drive.
I'd probably recommend getting an Intel NUC8i7HNK or if you can afford the extra, the Intel NUC8i7HVK if you truly want something in the same size range as a Mac Mini.
Intel NUC8i7HNK @ $998.17 or Intel NUC8i7HVK @ $1153.35
Crucial 16GB DDR4-2666 SODIMM @ $173.00
Crucial 500GB MX500 M.2 SATA SSD @ $108.99
Total : $1280.16 for the NUC8i7HNK, $1435.34 for the NUC8i7HVK.
The Mac Mini has a volume of 1.38L, the Intel NUCs have a volume of 1.22L (technically smaller than a Mac Mini). If you take the other suggestions here, the In-Win Chopin has a volume of 4.45L^1, the Silverstone SG13 has a volume of 11.45L, the Raijintek Metis Plus has a volume of 13.37L, and the Raijintek Ophion EVO has a volume of 18.92L. It should also be noted that the In-Win Chopin cannot take a GPU, as it has no space for any PCIe cards.
Is this your SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V. If so that is a SATA M.2 and the Ultra M.2 slot is PCI-E M.2 only. You need to put in the M.2 slot below, that supports SATA M.2.
If you're spending around $90 on a ~480GB SSD, I'd get something different. Nothing wrong with it, but at $88 it's overpriced for what you get (which you don't really know what it is, since Sandisk has no set BOM for this model).
Crucial MX500 is always a good choice: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0784SLQM6/
If this is a super small ITX, maybe consider M.2? The MX500 has an M.2 form factor for the same price: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/
Lot's of other good SSD models in this price range, MX500 is just an example.
Also, how old is your already purchased power supply?
thanks for the suggestion!
EDIT: like this one? Compatible with what I'm running, I take it?
450 is fine, but some 450W PSUs don't support more than 6+2 pin power, so there's that. CX450M is one that does support more than 6+2, while its brother the CX450 does not.
Also, Samsung is super overpriced here (holy crap) so get this instead.
I can finally be of use!
Hey OP, I have had this laptop in the past and have installed a sata m.2 into it with no problems. Here's the one I used
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077SQ8J1V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sorry for bothering you, but I found that there are two versions of the Crucial MX500 - This one and this one. Which one should I pick? I really don't want to accidentally pick an SSD that isn't compatible with my PC.
Looking for an SSD. Do I get the XPG SX6000 Pro, MX500, Intel SSD 660p, or Sabrent?
There are so many good options right now.
Here is my build-in-progress: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dFKbq4
Hello im very knowledgable on laptops and this topic haha
if you purchase an m.2 ssd whichever one you want lol
and you will need to take apart the laptop to get to it
unplug the battery
put the ssd in
put the battery in
now
you need to make a bootable windows 10 drive a usb or hard drive will do above 16GB
follow this guide
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-create-windows-10-usb-bootable-media-uefi-support
after this go through the process of selecting the ssd drive to install windows onto
and then reinstall all the programmes you want to be fast and delete them off the HDD so google chrome
you will need to delete this off the HDD and reinstall it will auto go to the ssd as the OS is running of of it now
and same for anything else
​
hope this helps if you want any reccomendations for an SSD i can link a few below of different prices
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-SN500-High-Performance-NVMe-Internal/dp/B07P7TFKRH/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=m.2+ssd&qid=1565811367&s=gateway&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-MX500-CT500MX500SSD4-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=m.2+ssd&qid=1565811382&s=gateway&sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Western-Digital-WDS120G2G0B-Internal-Green/dp/B078WYRR9S/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=m.2+ssd&qid=1565811382&s=gateway&sr=8-16
​
Ross :)
Answering two posts in one (novel...sorry this grew so long but at least you know I really took time to think and share).
About your question re: using Linux and Plex Media Player. No, I don’t actually do it that way. I use the NUC/Linux Mint OS to run my Plex Media Server (not Plex Media Player - I’m sure you know they are two different programs). With Plex being “serving” my content so that it’s available anytime/anywhere, I then use a streaming media box to run the Plex app (or client) which then accesses those files. This is a MUCH easier UI/layout because it was designed from the ground up to be used with a TV and remote (where a computer interface isn’t). With the dropping price of such media boxes (even 4K/HDR capable w/ the latest Dolby decoding) we find it highly preferable and more fluid. The other great thing is that multiple Plex clients (streaming media boxes/smartphones/tablets, etc) can access that content at one time.
So, answering the second post about setting up the system for your parents and how you were thinking of using the NUC:
Hmm. I didn’t know that’s what you were looking for. I thought that the NUC was going to be running your Plex Server. What is currently running your Plex Server? If you‘re wanting a plug-n-play type setup for your parents, I’m not sure that how you described using the NUC is going to be it (whether it’s Windows, Linux, or whatever).
If you really want your Plex server on the same device as your Plex player, maybe looking into something like a Mac Mini (one of the older versions would work fine from eBay, doesn’t have to be the newest). I’ve not run Plex server/Plex Media Player on a Mac myself but I’ve heard it might work well. It’s an alternative to Windows that you could check out. This isn’t actually what I’d do if I were setting it up for my family (or non-techie friends) but there certainly isn’t anything wrong with it. Everyone has different needs.
Given what you’ve said, if it were me, I’d try a few different things before going that direction. (These aren’t in any particular order...).
Streaming Stick+: https://www.roku.com/products/streaming-stick-plus
Ultra: https://www.roku.com/products/roku-ultra
NUC Kit: https://simplynuc.com/8i5beh-shop/
NUC 8i5BEH Detailed Product Brochure: https://simplynuc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/SimplyNUCProductBrief-NUC8i5BEH.pdf
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-250GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/
Memory: https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-2400MHz-SODIMM-Memory-Module/dp/B07QLPPHG7/
https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Performance-PC4-19200-2400MHZ-PV48G240C5S/dp/B01KBKHK56/
I honestly think that some mix of the NUC w/a streaming box will be the easiest for your parents. I’ve done a LOT of tech support and setups for my in-laws all the way into their 80s and lots of other non-techie people. Believe me, you want simple (to avoid those phone call right as you’ve started your own movie because they can’t get something figured out!). Nothing will be as simple as a streaming media box w/ a rock solid Plex server. If you don’t like Roku for some reason, you could consider Amazon’s FireTV, or Nvidia Shield. Nvidia Shield is the best of the Android TV boxes and many love it for a Plex client. I think the UI is little more complex and less friendly than Roku and for your needs, I don’t see much benefit given than Roku supports HDR/4K UHD/7.1 surround, etc. FireTV is generally a good value because they continue to push their Amazon content /ads first. If you have Prime, it can be a good option but Roku is much more content agnostic and they have every streaming app there is (Amazon Prime, Hulu, Netflix, YouTube, PBS, CBSNews, ABCNews, Bloomberg, AcornTV, BritBox, the free Roku channel, and literally hundreds/thousands more). I think they offer more free TV than any (because CBS and ABC news channels are totally free news streaming all the time, same with many others from cooking, tech, news, YouTube, etc). If they have cable too (we don’t any more) you can also use the cable login channels. We have all the boxes I mentioned above (except for the Apple TV, which I’d still like to try sometime) and Roku is our favorite.
I know this is a lot but I hope it helps. Depending on how soon you want to purchase, there may be a similar 9th Gen barebones kit released relatively soon. I don’t know what pricing that might have but if it’s worth it to you, you could do a little research. I think the 8th gen listed above came out between mid-Sept and Nov last year. But it’s a good deal, even if you just want to go with it. I hope in all this you can figure out something that will work. I’ve you have more questions about any of this, let me know and I’ll try to help. :)
OK merci donc NVMe si j'ai bien compris.
C'est celui là
https://www.amazon.fr/Crucial-CT500P1SSD8-Interne-500Go-NAND/dp/B07J2WBKXF/
et pas celui là
https://www.amazon.fr/Crucial-CT500MX500SSD4-Interne-MX500-500Go/dp/B077SQ8J1V/
?
Merci encore :)
Unless you're really set on Samsung I'd recommend this alternative.
im gonna buy an SSD, i found these 2 at the same price point, same capacity and same connector, but which one is better?
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2529211011
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBX6TY/ref=twister_B07T7C9WG6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What's the difference between that and this one that I just bought? Did I buy a shitty one?
Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA M.2 Type 2280SS Internal SSD - CT500MX500SSD4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-KvJBbNBTH8B7
Edit: Thank you guys for saving me. Returning this junk and buying the right thing.
The crucial mx500 500gb is [$62.95](/Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA M.2 Type 2280SS Internal SSD - CT500MX500SSD4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kDjTCbQACQFMA)