Reddit mentions of DROK 300363 5PCS Aluminum GT2 Timing Belt Pulley 20 Teeth Bore 5mm Width 6mm and Wrench for RepRap 3D Printer Prusa i3

I got you - I have had this same issue. I work from home and there is nothing like a 3d printer going off in the background while you are presenting in a conference call. I also have the Ender 3 pro, here is how I solved the noise.

Note: 4 things to know before venturing off in this solution. This may save you some reading.

​

1st: You will need to know how to take things apart and put them back together.

2nd: You will need to print a few parts (listed below)

3rd: Cost will run ~$25 - $50 for parts ( listed below, some are optional), about $125 for the added enclosure to do it the correct way.

4th: There are prolly other solutions like getting a better board, but I like to stay true to the oem setup and tinkering with what I have.

​

Here is what you will need:

1st Dampeners: $15 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNT72SF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-as you are going to be removing the stepper motor away from the rails which help cool, you will need a new way to help cool the motor such as heatsinks. (Below)

- You will prolly only use 2 of the 3. 1 on the Y axis and one on the X axis. Dont really need one for the zrod as it don't really put out a lot of noise when printing.

​

2nd Heatsinks: $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWVGGGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3rd X axis stepper motor (42-34 is the size): (Optional) $ 17 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDBMT1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- I say Optional as you can print the bracket to make the stock stepper motor work but it fully replaces the motor mount plate Found here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3271077 . I was just not sure how that would hold up to wear and tare as I was new to printing at the time and did not care to take the whole motor plate section and wheels apart.

-But if you want to skip printing the plate and the tare down/reassemble, I would order the stepper motor and 20 tooth sprocket. (below )

​

4th Sprockets (20 Teeth) : (Optional, see 3rd item on list) $ 8 -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GICCMA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- sadly you can only get a 5 pack.

​

5th Y Damper Bracket: Free - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3240449

- This moves the orientation of the motor to make up for the extra 10mm or so from the dampener.

​

6th Small bed leveling nut wheel (not sure what to call it): Free , Print it.

- The back left wheel will hit the heatsink/motor after you add the dampener and causes the bed to not extend all the way back. I had to go on tinkercad and make my own mini nutwheel. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3742690

- This will make it a bit harder to level the bed as it is smaller and harder to turn, but if you have the yellow springs installed, you should not have to level your bed often =p

​

7th - Lack Enclosure ~ $125 for me anyway Tables are around $8 and the plexy was around $50, and a full spool of filament ~$22, large pack of M12 screws $8

I got 3 tables, stacked them on top of each other, Printed my own feet/extensions to make sure it was the correct height (Solid 20" tall is what I went with) and then I went to my local Lowes and picked up 4 sheets of 3mm plexy. Cut my self and slapped it all together. This really finished off most of the noise for me, the only noise you will really hear after the dampeners is the fans. =(. I still hear the fans with an enclosure but its quite subtitle. I may upgrade to the much talked about Nactua silent fan with the buck converter to make it a 24/12 volt fan.

- You will need to also move the PSU out of the enclosure as this will help with the over heating/wear and tare. I printed some bracket ( like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3349588 ) to hold it to the underside of the 2nd shelf, and drilled a hole through to the printer where I could reconnect the printer and psu.

- This also helped with the fan noise from the PSU, I was really shocked on how well it worked. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3659432

- I also drilled a hole from the USB port down though to run my USB to and from Printer/octopi .

Hopefully this helps - hit me up if you have any questions . There is a lot of info here but it really helped bring down the noise. I would say the sound went from level 10 down to 3 or 4.

- I can upload my design for the Enclosure if needed, I am not fully sold on my design for the door section..

When I get around to it, I will upload pics of my setup =p

-shortliv3d

BIQU GT2 20Teeth 5mm Bore Aluminum Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt (Pack of 5pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H3DNKYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FgZ4CbRH8755E

DROK 300363 5PCS Aluminum GT2 Timing Belt Pulley 20 Teeth Bore 5mm Width 6mm and Wrench for RepRap 3D Printer Prusa i3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GICCMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ehZ4CbEXM1V48