Reddit mentions of HOPE'S 100% Pure Tung Oil Penetrating Wood Finish, One, 16 Fl Oz, All Natural
Sentiment score: 4
Reddit mentions: 8
We found 8 Reddit mentions of HOPE'S 100% Pure Tung Oil Penetrating Wood Finish, One, 16 Fl Oz, All Natural. Here are the top ones.
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Easy to Use - Tung oil is a natural oil recognized by craftsmen to offer the ultimate hand-rubbed finish for all fine woods; just wipe on and allow the oil to cure at room temperaturePermeates - Unlike other finishes that form a film on the wood’s surface, tung oil penetrates deep into the wood fibers, cures to a flexible non-oily solid, and becomes part of the wood itselfProtects - Resistant to moisture, alcohol, oil, and everyday wear for lasting beauty and protection; lasts many times longer than mineral oil and wax based productsMulti Use - Amazing results on almost any surface that will allow the oil to penetrate - new unfinished wood, weathered wood, stripped wood, concrete floors and countertops, even brick, stone, and cast ironFDA Approved for Food Contact Surfaces - Since tung oil is considered non-toxic when dry, it is great for cutting boards, butcher blocks, countertops, wooden bowls, wooden utensils, and more
Specs:
| Color | All Natural |
| Height | 8 Inches |
| Length | 3 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Size | One, 16 Fl Oz |
| Weight | 1.1 Pounds |
| Width | 3.4 Inches |
The original military spec calls for tung oil. Towards the end of WWII, linseed oil was substituted because there wasn't enough tung oil to keep up with production. Once the war ended, and production slowed, tung oil was used once again.
Here's what I use:
HOPE'S 100% Tung Oil 16 oz-Pt, Green, 16 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V4PF3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3UGMDbF4FHJ3T
Woodworker here. It's no problem at all to repair that break and end up with a neck that's more solid than before.
You can take it to a luthier and it'll be an easy job for them, or it's a pretty easy DIY job too.
Here's what I'd do: get a bottle of CA glue (super/krazy glue), a needle-tip glue injector, a clamp (a quick clamp would be fine, or any solid clamp with padded clamping surfaces to avoid marring the neck), a wiping cloth, and acetone (paint thinner or nail polish remover).
Gently force the break open slightly, and inject CA into several locations throughout the break. (The ideal would be to get a coat of glue across the entire surface, but that's not practical in this case.) You want to work quickly, as CA has a short working time, but don't rush. Once the glue is in place, immediately apply the clamp. I'd locate it directly on the first fret so it's central on the break. If using a quick clamp, get it as tight as it goes. A screw-based clamp should only be tightened to finger tightness, as those can apply much more force than a quick clamp and you don't need a lot of clamping force in this situation. If there's any glue squeeze-out, clean it up immediately with the cloth dampened with acetone. CA glue cures very quickly, so you can remove the clamp after only 5 minutes or so. Just to be safe, I'd let it sit for a day before restringing it.
The last thing to do to make it as good as new is to repair the finish. It looks like this neck has an oiled finish, so that makes things super easy. Feel across the entire joint. If you can feel the break at all, take a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and gently sand the joint, going with the grain. It shouldn't take much effort to get it smooth. Finally, get some tung oil (make sure it's 100% tung oil, not "tung oil finish"), apply a small amount to a clean rag, and wipe a thin coat across the repaired area. Let it sit for a few hours, gently sand with fine grit sandpaper (absolutely no more coarse than 220), and repeat. I'd repeat this process for three or four coats. If you notice a different coloration on the repaired area and want to keep it even, then oil the entire neck. (Precautions for working with tung oil: work in a ventilated area, and dispose of your oily rags properly. Either burn them, or lay them out in a ventilated area (preferably outdoors) until they become hard and brittle, at which point the oil is cured and the rags can be thrown out. If thrown in the trash or balled up before the oil is cured, they can actually spontaneously ignite.)
Oddly enough, I'm gonna say neither. Instead, consider using cold-pressed flaxseed oil (the raw form of BLO), as it will have a more natural bond with the wood. Just go to your local grocery store and find a bottle of flaxseed pills, and every day you can just poke one of those capsules and drip the oil over the stock (1-2 drops per side should be sufficient). Rub in the oil with your bare hand until it's hot to the touch... like, it should feel like your hand might catch on fire. Wait a day or two until the stock feels completely dry, like all the oil is absorbed. Repeat for a month. It will get progressively darker as you go.
If you're going to go the tung oil route, get genuine tung oil, not that fake minwax crap. I got this stuff on Amazon for a pretty decent price. Tung oil is a much more durable finish, and does not need as much work as the flaxseed/BLO process, but the oil does take longer to absorb into the wood, and won't finish as dark.
My suggestion would be to use the flaxseed capsules until it's as dark as you'd like, then finish with the tung oil for that really durable finish that will last forever.
It's time-consuming but worth it.
Tung oil flakes? That would be like cooking with Olive Oil flakes, if they existed. Since I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread, I'll point out there is a difference between 100% Tung Oil and Tung Oil Finishes. Many products have the name Tung Oil in them, but may or may not have some tung oil. In truth, they are a form of wiping varnish or oil/varnish blends. They are not necessarily bad, I've used them, but they are not what you are looking for.
You want something labeled as "100% Tung Oil". I like Hope's, which I can find at my local hardware store. The folks at RealMilkPaint sell a good one too. Not so fond of Woodcraft's (lots of separated solids).
Are you using the Kreg Pockethole Jig? I have one of those. It is a good place to start. Made a nice plant stand with one.
If it helps, a workbench I made last fall. I recommend some sort of undermount woodworker's vise. I cheated and mounted my front vise on the end, but this works for me and the small size of my shop. One of the fun things about woodworking: doing things how you want to.
Re: Tea box. Thanks. Was a gift for my wife, she loves it. The dovetails are cut with an Incra Jig, or why tax refund season can be a fun time for us wood workers.
Have you ever tried tung oil? My dad used to finish walnut gun stocks with this stuff and there's not much smell. (Evidently it is important to get pure tung oil, as some finishes sold as tung oil aren't.)
Not a name brand, just 100% with no additives.
I bought Hope brand Tung oil for around ~$12 of Amazon.
Amazon Tung Oil
If you want the piece of wood to have a shine or gloss to it, you'll need to sand to 600ish grit. Tung oil won't give much shine at all.
Thanks for the tip. I am using this product: http://www.amazon.com/The-Hope-Company-16TO12-Pint/dp/B002V4PF3K
Try wiping with 100% tung oil, not the varnish kind that comes from the big box stores.
100% Tung Oil 16 oz - Pt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002V4PF3K
At a minimum, it will make scratches less visible.