Reddit mentions of Install Bay CCL1614 Crimp Cap Nylon Connector 16/14 Gauge Long Neck -100-Pack

Crimp caps

Is that duct tape on the power wire? I am not even close to shocked this doesn't work. I also see loose frayed wire in the background?

Please have someone re-wire this correctly if you don't possess the tools. Even crimp caps would be a marked improvement and require next to no skill to use.

Wiring 2: lighting.

I need to know how many lights you are installing. Five or more and I'll want you to break the system into two or more circuits, which might change how we approach distribution, the necessary wire and fuse size.

Assuming it's just a few lights, we'll wire direct to the battery.

The + wire must have a fuse at the battery. I use these. Put a ring terminal on one fuse holder for the battery side, and use a butt connector to splice on the + wire for the lights.

The - wire for the lights can go directly to the battery with a ring terminal.

Now here's where it starts to get interesting.

You're going to wire the lights and switches in a "ladder" kind of shape. These are the kind of connectors I recommend for this part.

At each switch, cut the + wire, strip the two ends, and twist both together with a third piece of wire, crimp cap them together. So, one wire from the battery, one to continue the chain, and one for the parallel circuit, making a T shape.

The third wire goes to the switch, how it's terminated at the switch depends on the switch. A simple switch will work whichever way you hook it up. One wire in, one wire out.

The wire out of the switch goes to the + wire on the LED. Here again how you make the connection depends on the light, but a butt connector is pretty common.

Now cut the - wire from the battery, and make a T, like before. The - wire from the light goes to the third wire.

LEDs do care about polarity, so + to + and, - to -. There you've just completed the first rung in the ladder.

Do it again for each light, the last light in the chain won't have Ts, but rather just go + to switch, to light, to -, topping off the ladder nicely.

You will have questions, ask them.

Use this with a couple of these guys. Simple.

Those would work, but unless your planning to swap radios frequently crimp caps or butt connectors are easier. They are available and just about every auto parts and hardware store.

if you're not going to solder use these. at least you won't be losing any wire for down the road.

I recently did the upgrade myself on with 2014 Sonata GLS without nav. parts used:

• Kenwood DMX905S
  
• Scosche HY1625b dash kit
  
• iDatalink Maestro RR
  
• Factory replacement harness for Maestro RR
  
• Crimp cap Nylon connector
  
  the install was sort of straight forward. connecting the wires from replacement T harness to the Kenwood main cable may seem intimidating, but if you follow the diagram supplied by iDatalink, it will not be difficult. Maestro RR unit is very convenient and it lets me assign a single tap and hold (two functions) for each of the steering wheel buttons. one my biggest worry about losing the factory backup camera and its dynamic parking guideline when the car is in reverse. I am happy to report, the factory backup camera works, and the dynamic parking guide line shows up just fine when I am reversing the car with the Kenwood. removing the factory dash panel was not hard if you use the panel tools. the Scosche is of high quality and matches the factory dash overall, but some of the fitment was not correct. when swapping out the parts from the factory panel to Scosche panel, don't put on those green clips just yet. because for me it took a while to find a good fitment between the head unit and the panel, so I had to take off the panel, change the depth or angle of the head unit, and put the panel back on to see if the fit is good. once you are happy with the fitment, put on those green clips on the panel, and set the panel into the dash for good. I set up the microphone at the base of the steering wheel and the GPS antenna on the right side at the edge of the windshield. I channeled the dual USB cable between the two panels near the factory power, USB and audio inputs.
  
  I'm very impressed with the Kenwood unit. I have upgraded it to the latest firmware. then connected my phone (Galaxy S8) with the USB cable and started android auto. next time, I started my car, android auto started right away wirelessly. the screen is low res, but it is not noticeable for me. the sound quality is the biggest strength. the sound is very rich and clear. I have already swapped all four door speakers with Rockford speakers , and the two dash speaker with these. they are not a good fit at the factory slot, I have used bass blocker with the dash speaker. I have also added a Pioneer powered subwoofer in the trunk. using this wire kit.
  
  pic

> 1998 Chevrolet S10 Blazer Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram

> Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
>
> Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Dark Green
>
> Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
>
> Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
>
> Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Violet/White
>
> Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
>
> Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
>
> Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
>
> Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
>
> Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
>
> Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
>
> Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
>
> Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
>
> From blazer forum [[Formatted for easier viewing]]

So, I believe the 12 volt switched power is usually a Brown Wire for GM. I would ignore the illumination wire.

You can easily tell which wires are the speaker wires, because if you trim your wire bundle cover down a bit further, they usually twist together the speaker wire pairs.

Be careful, because you can short out a wire and pop a fuse pretty easy in this situation.

To test to see if you have a correct pair, grab a GOOD WORKING battery (like a 9 volt or an AA battery) and connect the (+) to one side and the (-) to the other side. If you hear a speaker go "pop" then those wires work for that speaker.

Once you find which wires go to your speakers, then you should have wires left over. You can assume that they are going to be your power/ground/switched/illumination wires. To test the constant power grab a test light, and check to see if it lights up a test light. It should have power even if the vehicle is off.

To test the switched power, check to see if the test light turns on, only when your key is turned forward. Make sure to not mix this up with the illumination wire by see if the wire comes on with your parking lights.

Great tool for the job, usually $20 at most hardware stores: https://www.channellock.com/909-the-crimper-crimping-tool.aspx?

They work great with these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C

or these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Wiwaplex-Connectors-Electrical-Terminals-waterproof/dp/B01FZENM14/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501634099&sr=1-14&keywords=barrel+crimp+connector

Good Luck

Your Clarion harness is not going to plug into the Kenwood. But the two should use the exact same wire color scheme. Meaning whatever wire the red Clarion wire was connected to, you'd connect the red Kenwood wire to. Etc etc etc. I seriously doubt you're going to solder and shrink every wire, so I suggest using these for your connections. They're one click better than butt connectors.

Install Bay CCL1614 Crimp Cap Nylon Connector 16/14 Gauge Long Neck -100-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SBLM1C

Yes that's the one. Just match the colors with the harness that comes with the deck that you buy. Join the wires with crimp caps or butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink if you feel comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector--100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/

You need a special crimping tool. You could possibly get away with something you already have.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/

Or, I guess, some screw on wire nuts and then zip tie or tape it together.

Remove the screws from the factory deck and put your new deck into the bracket with the pocket, the new deck should have the holes there.

I installed this in my 01 Corolla a couple weeks ago. It fits in the stock mounting bracket and has AUX, BT and USB. All you will need to install it is this wiring harness, a set of crimp caps and a wire stripper/crimp tool.

The hardest part is wiring the new head unit to the wiring harness. The actual installation should take 10 minutes.