Reddit mentions of IRON FREE Paint, Wheel And Glass Decontamination Fall Out Remover [NA-IFE16]

Any isopropyl alcohol will be just fine. Anything from 70-90% is just fine. I just use a cheap bottle from Target 90% diluted and it works just as good as anything else. Some people on here will tell you to use Carpro eraser, and if I were to do a ceramic coating application I probably would, but for a sealant or wax it is not worth the added cost.

Any sort of iron remover will work just fine. Never used Iron X, I've used the Nanoskin product for less cost, just as good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K0902C/ My wife's car is white, and it will help remove those little orange flecks embedded in the paint that claying will not always remove.

You don't necessarily have to put wax on top of sealant, sealant by itself is just fine, unless you are looking to make your paint have a little more "pop" to it. On a white car it probably makes no difference, I just choose a synthetic sealant for longevity over a carnauba wax.

For an area with fresh touch-up paint, I'd wait 30 days before applying something on top. Give's it a chance to properly cure, a lot of automotive paints will fully harden in a few hours, but to be fully "cured" wait 30 days. Just do the whole car with sealant and skip that section just to be safe.

And to your follow-up question, yes APC means all purpose cleaner (another popular acronym you will here is IPA that is Isopropyl Alcohol, or ONR is Optimum No Rinse).

For APC, it depends on what I am cleaning. For the interior if it is in well-kept condition and just needs a wipe down, I turn to ONR diluted 64:1 in a spray bottle (again, I use this on interior plastics, vinyl, clay bar lube, drying aid, you name it. You should buy some because it's so versatile).

For really bad interiors you can use APC diluted to a weak concentration depending on what product you go with. I have several kinds that I use for varying levels of aggressiveness that I am going after.

Interior plastics, sensitive areas, etc I like Simple Green 10:1. (10 parts water, 1 part solution). Some people don't like the smell of Simple Green, so I recently switched to LA's Totally Awesome APC from Dollar Store at $1 per quart it's cheap and effective, I dilute this 10:1 or 5:1 for interior. Spray directly on the microfiber, not on the surface, this prevents over-spray onto areas you don't want it like instrument clusters or windows.

For exterior APC use like wheels, rims, wheel wells, engine bays, I step it up to SuperClean. Costs about $8 a gallon at Walmart. I can dilute this 4:1 and still get great results on cleaning rims and tires. It's strong stuff, but works great!

As for interior dash protection, I have a bottle of 303 Aerospace Protectant. A little goes a long way. It doesn't leave anything greasy or shiny, just a nice even matte finish on black plastics, just enough to clean it up and make it even looking.

Sorry for the wall of text again :)

I wanted to try coating my daily driver before fall and winter set in, and to see how good it looks and performs on its own.

Steps taken:

>Wash car with pressure washer, using Griot's car wash. Using IPA as a drying aid, dried car. Clayed car using AutoCare 6" clay pad (knockoff nanoskin). Applied Nanoskin Iron Free to all surfaces except glass and let dwell and pressure washed off. Used TRC towels for everything.

>Touched up a couple of paint chips with Dr. Color Chip after these steps.

>Spot compound using Lake Country MF 3" cutting pad and Menzerna FG400. Polished using Lake Country MF 3" polishing pad and Menzerna SFP3800. Applied Optimum Paint Prep to strip old wax/sealant and polish.

>Using a Lake Country MF 5" cutting pad, applied CarPro Essence to entire car. Let set overnight for max curing and no need for a second wipedown.

>Applied Gtechniq CSQ, Opti-Bond diluted tire dressing, AngelWax Bilberry Wheel Wax.

Total Time: 8 hours

I didn't take a ton of pics of the finer scratches or swirls, but the paint was in pretty good shape overall before, very light marring from washes and clay. They were easily taken care of with Essence since it hides some of them and removes others. I also don't have after pics of water on the car due to cure time. It is supposed to rain in a few days and I want to give the car the max time I can for it to cure properly.

Links above are where I bought the products, except for GG car soap, which is OOS at DI.

Overall, a long process that should produce lasting results. I plan to top with Geyon Wetcoat since it is cheaper and easier to use than EXO (although they aren't the same thing at all).