Reddit mentions of JBtek Windows 8 Supported Debug Cable for Raspberry Pi USB Programming USB to TTL Serial Cable

Hey all, sorry I didn't post specs I was asleep

This is my general purpose tech kit. I used to do security research for the gov so I've collected some stuff over the years.

Keyboard is Rii Mini i8

Various adapters for HDMI, USB-C, Mini/Micro USB, and a USB-to-TTL Serial (Blue Cord)

RPI 3 with a bunch of microSD cards. This has many purposes such as wardriving, rogue hotspot, and general purpose linux.

Alfa USB Wireless Adapter

Ethernet Cables

Power Extender

USB Power Bank

And a static free bag

The USBs have since been replaced by a single YUMI USB I keep on my person but contain:

Spinrite, Kali, Tails, Hirens Boot CD, Rubber Duck, Windows Recovery, Mac Recover, and random tool installers

Expanded View https://i.imgur.com/mXPSR1s.jpg

USB-to-TTL Serial https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QT7LQ88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: This isn't actually really the "good" stuff because that's all in my notebook. I guess I could post a few pages from that?

The ML part isn't a flash, it's an SDRAM. (System memory). And there's a spot for a 2nd one as well.

uboot is a bootloader commonly used on embedded Linux systems. It's VERY popular particularly on ARM based embedded Linux boards.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Das_U-Boot

That board ALSO has an unsoldered RJ45 network connector. If I had to guess? I'd say this is some SoC reference design board from China that's designed to run Android.

I see it also has a Realtek WIFI chip, and a WIFI antenna connected to the micro-coax on the lower right corner.

How do we know 115,200 baud rate for the UART? Because that's what most everything uses. There are exceptions for slower CPUs, or systems that spew a lot of data, but generally speaking, that's what it is.

Once you get your serial header attached, you should connect it to something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+serial+to+wires&qid=1575076742&sr=8-8

And run Putty(Windows), or minicom(Linux), to see the output. I'd just about bet that if you capture the entire boot sequence output, it'll tell you what the CPU is that's under the heatsink, removing the need to pull the heatsink.

I'm not familiar with the ER-X, but sadly it looks like unlike the ER-Lite, which used a USB drive (easy to remove and re-flash in a PC), the flash memory is soldered in the ER-X.

From what I can see there is a serial port exposed by a 4-pin header on the PCB, and you can re-flash it from the bootloader with TFTP.

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/What-are-the-recovery-options-on-a-EdgeRouter-X/td-p/1465254

Seems like a warranty-voiding exercise, but if it's out of warranty I'd say grab a cheap 3.3V serial cable (this sort of thing) and go nuts.

It does sound like maybe the cp2102 chip is bad. I'd bet the USB ttl adapter connected directly to the esp8266 will work. That's how I've programmed all the esp's I've used. I have a Wemos d1 mini that I'll use for testing code, since it can be sent into flashing mode via commands over USB, making it quicker and easier to fix bugs and then re-flash. I've never had to use external power when flashing, power from the USB has always been enough.

I originally used this adapter, but it stopped working and I bought this one and haven't had any problems with it. It's nice because it can do both 5v and 3.3v.

I've never heard of the RX/TX loopback test before.

http://www.amazon.com/JBtek%C2%AE-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422037508&sr=8-4&keywords=console+cable+raspberry+pi

If you have a serial cable like this, you could watch debug info as you boot, to really see what is going on.

Are you holding down the boot button while the board powers on? I've definitely seen that if something strange has happened to emmc, the board won't try to boot off the SD card any more unless the button is held.

Before touching WinDAS, read this:

Apparently, the P1110 does have a service menu, and it's possible to adjust the G2 without goofing around with WinDAS. This text document that I downloaded tells the story:

>I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.

>- Turn off monitor.

>- Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.

>- A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.

>- A service mode screen will come up.

>- Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.

>- Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).

>- Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.

>- Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.

>- Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.

>-That's it!

If this procedure does work for you, great! But if it doesn't, a serial cable will not help you - instead, you'll need something called a USB-TTL cable to connect to the monitor so you can use WinDAS to fix the G2 being through the roof.

the one I ordered only has 3.3, doesnt do 5, I should be good, still waiting for tomorrow

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QT7LQ88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So you can see here the rpi pins, the UART0 TX is the transmitter pin and the UART0 RX is the receiver one. And this is a TTL to USB converter. You plug the converter on the rpi pins, the usb on the computer, use a terminal emulation app like hyperterm or putty and voila, you have a console! You can even see the rpi's boot.

I had the same issue before with that router, I bought this cable and didn't have to deconstruct. This cable worked perfect for me. Youll just need the prolific driver. It arrived in 2 days with prime.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QT7LQ88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered an Orange Pi PC without the power supply, and then couldn't find one with a plug that fit. So I ordered something from somewhere I don't remember, I think the Amazon item mentioned here: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045SE9XC Anyway, I had a 5V2A power supply with the correct plug, and I was fine, right?

Well, no. I loaded five or six different images onto my SD card, all the lights worked, and I never got anything to show on HDMI or on Ethernet. I started to wonder about all those reports of "dead" boards. Finally I ordered this serial to USB adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QT7LQ88?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

In a few minutes I was watching my Orange Pi PC boot and realized it hung at a different point with each boot. I suspected the power supply in causing this kind of non-determinism, so I cut off the good plug and soldered it to another power supply. That plug had really thin wires, and that never worked reliably for me. I think putting 2A through that plug is overloading the design of the typical wires. Eventually I visited a local electronic parts shop and discovered their big selection of different sized plugs. So I took a new bare plug and wired up a power supply, and I was able to boot reliably now. Works like a charm, beautiful HD display on my TV, etc.

Now I was interested in a non-DIY power supply, and I didn't trust random ones I got on the web, so I ordered the "official" Orange Pi PC power supply from AliExpress, and waited. 28 days later it finally showed up, and works well. It only cost $3.52 but the wait is a killer. The part number is HN-528i. This part is sold all over, multiple listings on eBay, some from US sources.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=HN-528i&_sop=15

Oddly enough, the pictures show two shapes for the adapter, a smooth case and a rippled case. The one I got from AliExpress is the smooth case. Probably doesn't matter, fingers crossed.

I would recommend everyone buy the serial to USB cable, just to have for this and other projects. I wasted several hours because I didn't have it. If you value your time at all, it is well worth it.

Update: I ordered an HN-528i (compatible) from eBay and it arrived with a plug too small. The vendor claims that they mentioned "for Android tablet" in the description, so that has a different sized plug. This item may be a complete screwup where you cannot order by part number alone. Sigh.

It's possible you may be able to fix it by re-flashing the firmware using a USB to TTL Serial cable.

Similar to this:

https://www.myopenrouter.com/article/how-debrick-your-netgear-wnr3500l-using-usb-ttl-cable-windows

I suggest you use a Setrial cable to connect to your Pi. If you have your laptop close physically to the RPi then this is an easy and cheap way to solve the issue.

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WNrhyb1551NBK

About SSH:

When you said you can SSH out of your Pi, did you mean out to another device in the same network?

Have you tried changing the SSH port?

Would this TTL adapter work? https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+to+ttl&qid=1555471545&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Its hard to say. I don't even know what the program "regsvr32" is or does, really. All I know is that it allows your PC and WinDAS to use that missing ActiveX / msflxgrd.ocx file. And WinDAS NEEDS it.

When you are successful, you'll get this message:

http://www.piclist.com/images/com/geocities/www/gregua/windas/flxinstall.png

I am terrible with syntax and it usually takes me 5 or 6 attempts of "what was that command again? what switches? etc" to do things like this. That image is reminding me. You might want to try this command at the end of my last instructions if it didn't work.

I had said

​

>Now you are in C:\Windows\System32\ and all of the msflxgrd.ocx files are copied, type this to register/install it.
>
>regsvr32 C:\WINDOWS\system32\msflxgrd.ocx

​

try this instead

​

>Now you are in C:\Windows\System32\ and all of the msflxgrd.ocx files are copied, type this to register/install it.
>
>C:\Windows\System32\regsvr32 C:\Windows\System32\msflxgrd.ocx

I am 90 days removed from the time I sat down and did this, but I'm am almost certain that this is what you are missing from the install process. WinDAS is an outdated tech relic for monitors built in 1999, but it works on a moden OS with its dependencies in place.

You know what the COM port is for matching USB port. You know that the 5V Power Lead is RED and the Ground is the BLACK lead. You've tried switching RX and TX leads because they connect to their opposites and not RX-to-RX and TX-to-TX. You've Read the labels on the monitors board, to know what pin is what.

You're so close. WinDAS is just a pain to install and the instructions are sketchy and it seems that no one curates a real fix for it.

When WinDAS is working, it will show no errors and will allow you to select your Model Number from a list (F2).

Good luck. I really don't have much more.

EDIT: Then again, who knows. Maybe you really do get what you paid for. But my $7 choice from an equally sketchy Amazon seller is questionable too.

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1546722499&sr=1-7&keywords=PL2303

Maybe it is what you need. I can't say.

this is the one I have.

You mean on your PC you can’t bring up a terminal window? Or in your terminal window on your PC you can’t connect to the pi? Also I highly recommend working with one of these with an SBC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v4S.BbGFCR695

(Just don’t fuck up pos/neg or the cable dies forever :D )

So I bought this

USB to TTL Serial Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HZ-UBbC3CBMZQ

And followed the tutorials online and it actually wasn't that bad. It was good experience too. I had the same issue on a R8000.

Just Google R7000 USB TTL firmware

Help me out here dude, do you mean ethernet?

You can connect over ethernet directly. Just set a static IP on the Pi, and connect your cable. The IP should be in the same subnet as the client computer, then just SSH...

A crossover cable might be necessary, or not. Most likely not, now-a-days, but this is a possibility.


Better yet, get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88

Then you can connect to the device over serial (From USB on your client computer) using the screen program!

JBtek WINDOWS 8 Supported Debug Cable for Raspberry Pi USB Programming USB to TTL Serial Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7IEKAbTGV81Y6

That should do the trick.

Thanks! I was looking for an option with Amazon Prime to be done with it as soon as possible so I can refund my temporary router. By reading the description of the link you sent me, I was able to find this one. I hope it does the job!