Reddit mentions of Magswitch - 8110015 Table Featherboard Universal Model, Yellow

So I just bought a new table saw recently. I'm kind of following a similar track of 'upgrading' it with goodies.

Here's what I have to go along with my TS:

1. Blade: Diablo 50T Combo blade
   
   
2. Feather board: Magswitch feather board
   
   
3. Push sticks: I already had these (homemade), they are basic AF.
   
   
4. Crosscut Sled. My design was a combination of this video for the fence shape, and this one. That second video does a really good job of explaining the 5 cuts method, and how to make adjustments to the fence to get it super accurate.
   
   
5. Dado stack. I got this for Christmas, still haven't used it on a project yet.
   
   Next thing I'm going to make is a bunch of ZCIs, I figure this will come in handy for my next set of projects that will require the dado stack. I don't yet have an outfeed table (limited space), but my latest issue of WOOD has a cool mobile folding one that doubles as a scrap storage cart.
   
   If you don't have a crosscut sled yet, I would make that first. They are made from inexpensive materials, and can be as simple or complex as you like them to be. My first crosscut sled for my old POS tablesaw was made from scrap ply and a chunk of scrap 2x4; it was ugly and kind of crummy, but it did the job. My second version is much nicer, with contoured and shaped fences and much more accurate using the 5 cut method. More sophisticated versions have built in stop blocks, tape measures, or T-tracks for adjustable inserts. I use my sled on just about every single project, as both my miter and circular saw are kind of inaccurate, and not great at making super accurate crosscuts. Plus, if you don't have a dado stack, you can use a crosscut sled to make rabbets and dados across the grain by making repeated cuts. It will take longer, but gets the job done.
   
   Good luck!

Imho Magswitch is better and somewhat cheaper now -

http://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-Table-Feather-Universal-Model/dp/B001DSZ7EC/ref=sr_1_1

The issue is that you are trying to do the job of 3 tools with one tool.

Just because you are starting with stock lumber doesn't mean that it is straight and flat. The "right" way to go about sizing stock would be to flatten one face on a jointer, then square one side to that face, then plane the other face parallel to the flat face, and finally rip it to final width on a table saw.

If you are simply trying to remove stock from a board and you don't care about squareness or straightness, you could just use a lunchbox planer for the thickness and a tablesaw for the width.

There is no way I would attempt to run 12' boards through a planer on edge, I think running them through a table saw with a good outfeed table would be much much safer and easier. Maybe a good magnetic featherboard would be a good idea for such long boards.