Reddit mentions of Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10 / CR10 / CR10S / Ender 2 / Ender 3 Ender 5 Printers .4mm

First of all, you're going to want to update the firmware in the controller board. Creality has a history of shipping printers with older versions of Marlin that lack thermal runaway protection, which is kind of important if you value your home being not on fire. They may have already fixed this, but it's certainly something you'll want to check.

Here's a tutorial:

• Part 1 https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-with-marlin-how-to-install-marlin-firmware-on-your-ender-3/
  
• Part 2 https://toms3d.org/2018/09/17/update-your-3d-printer-firmware-without-a-bootloader/
  
  And here's the cheap programming adapter I used to complete the update:
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IBFMJEA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
  
  Beyond that, I printed a few upgrades for the printer itself.
  
  A fan guard to keep scrap filament from the bed from falling into the controller fan. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204
  
  A surprisingly useful tool tray to keep the various tools neat and contained https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2883898
  
  Some cable chains mostly for cable management aesthetics but also to prevent damage to cabling during use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060
  
  A filament guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932
  
  Some retaining clips to keep the Teflon tube from moving around during retractions: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845931
  
  There are also tons of part cooling fan ducts to play with in order to get cleaner overhangs at various angles.
  
  It's also commonly advised to upgrade to stiffer bed springs to avoid having to relevel the bed as often, but I haven't had an issue on this front yet.
  
  Another common idea is to print on glass. But my bed came flat from the factory and I've been enjoying printing on the flexible removable build surface. And a pane of glass is more mass to sling around which may potentially cause ghosting. But if your bed does come warped, you'll want to run to the hardware store and get a few cut.
  
  I upgraded the Teflon tube to one made by Capricorn. I haven't noticed any difference in print quality, but they advertise that their special Teflon blend has better temperature Resistance which, in the absence of the all metal hotend, adds a wider safety margin for higher printing temperatures.
  
  But by far, the best upgrade was to put some cardboard shims underneath the feet of the printer. This dramatically reduced the amount of noise made by the printer.
  
  Also, if you want to upgrade to printing Zytel, you'll need an all metal hotend like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=D0IRZSZQ80PZ&keywords=ender+3+micro+swiss+hotend&qid=1556175003&s=gateway&sprefix=Ender+3+micr&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
  
  Hope this helps!

Don't buy knockoff, buy genuine. I got a knockoff for my Wanhao i3, terrible milling, fake metal. Bough a genuine and had no issue.

Genuine one on Amazon
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10 / CR10 / CR10S / Ender 2 / Ender 3 Printers .4mm https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XJ9xCbBDQJ77A

I have this Micro Swiss hotend on my Ender 3 and it prints like a champ, even with nylon. I reused the nozzle from my stock hot end though as I wasn't a fan of the one that came with the Micro Swiss one. Voltage doesn't matter as you will be reusing the heater from the stock hot end.

Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Capricorn tubing
Hope I could help 😀
Links:
micro swiss hotend
petsfang part
ezabl sensor
motor dampers
tl smoothers
octoprint link
all metal extuder
capricorn tubing



Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg

I ordered all of it on amazon. I got the dotbit bmg clone, although the triangle labs was recommended more, and the pancake stepper from stepper online via amazon. The direct drive kit I got was the basaraba dd upgrade kit. To attach a bmg style extruder to this kit, you’ll need a printed or machined adapter. I managed to have a connection and got someone to machine a mount for mine specifically

Stepper: STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 Bipolar Stepper Motor 0.7A 13Ncm (18.4oz.in) 17HS10-0704S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LESPDCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aeAWDbHDJ8A49

Bmg clone:

3D Printer Bowden Extruder,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6X7DKL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrade Kit, Compatible with Creality Ender 3 & Ender 3 Pro, no firmware Modification Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P9S9KNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rfAWDbZQWTYK1

It’s important to put the spacer in this dd kit in between the motor and bmg clone as the motor shaft will push against the outer shell of the extruder, and cause a lot of issues.

I also am using a microswiss hotend

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I actually replaced my whole extrusion path.

First, I found that the spring in the stock extruder assembly would fatigue resulting in under extrusion and jams. The BMG is a little pricey but worth it IMO. Comes with pretty good instructions.

Second, I switched to a Micro-swiss all metal hot-end. I probably didn't need to do this - given I almost never print high-temp materials but did it anyway.

Last, cheapest, and not least, Capricorn Tubing. Do not underestimate the difference this can make.

If you're up to the challenge, I highly recommend a BLTouch. It completely solved my first layer woes (warped bed on my CR-10s).

I LOVE MY ENDER 3'S. I have one running stock everything (except the bed) and the other is well, an ender 3 in name only now. (I know you mentioned you are in the EU, but I have provided links to my sources for US based distributors)

Printer setup:

Ender 3

MKS (MKS GEN L V1.0)

TMC (2208's)

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend ( MS all metal )

Custom Modified heater block (installed 300°c heater cartridge and 450°c capable thermistor from slice engineering) (heater) & (thermistor)

Bantamfeeder Extruder ( bantam design ) ... will be changing this out soon when I decide what next. Works well just not my cup of tea for convenience purposes.

Bullseye Duct ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439)

3-point bed conversion for leveling made easy (Leveling guide and 3 point leveling adapter). HERE IS A COMPLETED DESIGN OF THESE CHANGES( My bed setup ... < < < this is my stock ender 3)

Borosilicate glass bed w/ PEI (Glass bed & PEI Sheet)

PSU (Mean Well NES-350-24 24V 350 Watt UL Switching Power Supply 120 Volt)

​

OCTOPRINT SERVER

RPI 3b+ (raspberry pi w/ octoprint)

Pi Cam (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2SY756/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

​

So now you see why I say not really an ender 3 anymore, only in name

I've modified the hell out of my ender 3, but the only mods critical to running that cf nylon were to install an all-metal hotend (e3D V6) with a titanium heat break and hardened steel nozzle, then put the whole thing in an enclosure. If you've got an ender 3, this Micro-swiss hotend is the cheapest and easiest way to get the same capability. Just bear in mind that PLA can be problematic in all-metal hot ends. You can either switch back to the OEM hotend when you want to run it, or use an oiler to get PLA working again. And I made an enclosure out of a couple IKEA LACK tables, but a garbage bag works too. If running the stock hot-end fan, be sure to cover the opening on the bottom with foil tape when running nylon or ABS to prevent a draft from blowing on the part.

Thanks - I'll check that one out. Here's the hot end I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789V2D7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I never had this happen, but I had a lot of clogging etc, until I switched to a Micro Swiss all metal hotend. It, plus printing out a fang cooling duct made things so much better. Search Thingiverse for "fang" and you will see a bazillion different flavors.

I"m going to say no. That is a stock Ender 3 hotend. The PTFE bowden tube will break down at or before 240C and release potentially toxic fumes. You want a hot end that does not allow the bowden tube to get too close to the melt zone & heating element. You can replace the standard heatbreak with something that keeps the PTFE away from the heat zone like this one (not saying it works with the Ender 3, I haven't tried it but look at the drawing and you see the bowden tube is kept a fair distance from the nozzle end of the heatbreak) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GRX256/?coliid=IOHVUCVLQ020R&colid=130JFFKF5YAUO&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

​

Microswiss hot end ( https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=microswiss+ender+3&qid=1555949725&s=industrial&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1 ) seems to be the gold standard for all metal hot ends.

A genuine microswiss, sure https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=pd_cp_328_1/135-5486205-8497053?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0789V2D7C&pd_rd_r=e8b874f2-aefe-4408-a022-6a0c0272998d&pd_rd_w=RcLct&pd_rd_wg=Ravoy&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=A9ZWV06R064NQD1A9VDT&psc=1&refRID=A9ZWV06R064NQD1A9VDT

But when it comes to clones, trianglelab is the only company that makes them as good or very close to the real thing.

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10 / CR10 / CR10S / Ender 2 / Ender 3 Printers .4mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7HwYCbCPSMV5Z

This fits ender 3 for all metal hotend, exact fit no need to modify anything except for some retraction settings.

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10 / CR10 / CR10S / Ender 2 / Ender 3 Ender 5 Printers .4mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_J-AFDb6CRKAMW

Is this hot end considered a good upgrade. Right now I'm having clogging, a lot of stringing. And I'm levelled well and all my settings are pre-loaded with this auto-leveling print. I'm lost, i feel like things aren't flowing well.

First off, there is no perfect printer. There are only tradeoffs and choices. But between the gMax and the S5, we would choose the CR-10 S5. Why? Here are some of my thoughts about each...


gMax 1.5 XT+

• The gMax came first. (Sure, we looked at the Raise3D N2 around the same time. And it has some nice features. But there were also quite a few complaints at the time being given voice about the extruder and other aspects of their ecosystem, including their CAM software not working properly.) I used to refer to the large objects we could produce on the gMax as printing at "gMax scale". And we still believe that the gMax design is very good, except...
  
  
• Though the gMax is said to be an open source design, it's not really.
  
  
• The small Brooklyn-based company that designs the gMax parts, gCreate, has very poor quality assembly standards and dismal tech support.
  
  
• The "ready-to-print" unit that I bought from gCreate arrived with a bunch of nuts, screws and other parts bouncing around the bottom of the shipping crate because they hadn't even been tightened properly during assembly. It took us about a month to reassemble and certify our unit as ready for production. I tried to suggest ways that they could fix these production problems, but it seemed that they were insulted that I would even suggest.
  
  
• I ordered the dual extruder gMax, though the dual head vibrates around. So keeping the 2 nozzles level is a continual challenge.
  
  
• The gMax print volume is 400X400X500. gMax Scale
  
  
• The gMax's bed leveling and bed heating functions work very well.
  
  
• The default print speed is 3600mm/minute, which is slow by some standards.
  
  
• The surface quality it produces is good when using the stock 0.5mm nozzle, with some studdering in areas of momentum changes.
  
  
• The base model is priced around $3,000, plus another $200 added on for the dual-headed option. This is less than you'd pay for a Makerbot or Ulimaker, but more than twice what a CR-10 S5 costs on Amazon.
  
  
  Creatily CR-10 S5
  
  
• First there was the CR-10. We brought one of the original CR-10 units into the shop, but the wire to the heated bed failed within 10 print jobs. We returned that unit with our comments, but a few weeks later we designed and printed a simple solution that took the stresses off the wire's connection to the bed. (Let me know if you want the STL for this part.) Our replacement CR-10 has been in full production rotation for over a year. Once we fixed the wiring problem, we also brought in our first CR-10 S5.
  
  
• The CR-10 S5 has a build volume of 500X500X500, which is HUGE for our purposes.
  
  
• We can have a newly delivered CR-10 S5 assembled and running production jobs within 90 minutes.
  
  
• Bed leveling is not great, because the two Z-axis lead screws result in a lopsided bed that you have to check at the start of every job. But with that caveat, this massive bed is pretty flat. All we've done to flatten it further is add a few PostIt notes underneath the surface.
  
  
• The stock heater for the build platform is only 300X300. So it can take as long as 15 minutes to bring the bed to temperature. So we upgraded our heaters to the 500X500 1300W unit, which works well for us.
  
  
• The extruders on both CR-10 models are a Bowden design, which on a practical level doesn't allow printing with flexible filaments.
  
  
• The default print speed is 4800mm/minute, which is much faster than the gMax.
  
  
• We've upgraded all of our CR-10 units to Micro Swiss all-metal extruders. This has enabled us to print with a few "exotic" materials such as polycarbonates. The process of swapping extruders takes us about 15 minutes with no surprises.
  
  
  The Bottom Line
  
  
• Even with the upgrades that we've added, the cost of our CR-10 S5's is less than half what we paid for the gMax.
  
  
• The print failure rate is much lower on CR-10 S5's.
  
  
• We don't run flexible filaments through our CR-10 S5's, nor can the CR-10 S5's support dual extrusion. But we have a number of Flashforge Creator Pro's in heavy rotation for those jobs.
  
  That's our experience in a nutshell.
  
  

• Bob

Would this work? https://smile.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C