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Reddit mentions of Mmei 5pcs NTC 3950 100K Thermistor with 1 Meter Wiring and Female Pin Head for RepRap 3D Printer Extruder Heated Bed pre-wired or Hot End

Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 2

We found 2 Reddit mentions of Mmei 5pcs NTC 3950 100K Thermistor with 1 Meter Wiring and Female Pin Head for RepRap 3D Printer Extruder Heated Bed pre-wired or Hot End. Here are the top ones.

Mmei 5pcs NTC 3950 100K Thermistor with 1 Meter Wiring and Female Pin Head for RepRap 3D Printer Extruder Heated Bed pre-wired or Hot End
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Found 2 comments on Mmei 5pcs NTC 3950 100K Thermistor with 1 Meter Wiring and Female Pin Head for RepRap 3D Printer Extruder Heated Bed pre-wired or Hot End:

u/PuterPro · 2 pointsr/CR10

Sorry it took a while, had some Doctor stuff with my Wife ...

Fittings: Yes, they ARE supposed to release, but don't always. I do it like this:

  1. Heat the nozzle to 240°, or about 10° above the hottest plastic you've ever used, or plan to.
  2. Raise the Z while it's heating
  3. Remove the nozzle (6mm socket)
  4. REDUCE the temp to 180°, (soft but not molten) let it sit at that temp for at LEAST a minute to stabilize
  5. Release the tube on the extruder end and push the tube DOWN through the hotend, be careful you don't burn yourself on the lower end, it's **HOT**
  6. This removes any clogs too, as well as gets around the "stuck" fitting. Someone told me the fittings on some are only one way movement. Not sure of that's true but some sure won't release!!

    Pro Tip - if you have to trim the end of the tube, use a RAZOR, not nippers or scissors, they crush the tube. It's also VITAL you cut it completely **square** and flush on the end. A slight angle or less than smooth end lets molten plastic leak out, recreating a clog. :-(

    Pro Tip #2 - When reassembling, use same temp. Put the nozzle on first, tighten to stop, then BACK OFF 1/4 turn (only). Push the tube in, and while holding, tighten the nozzle. Seals it against the tube ...

    /----------------------------

    Thermistor:

    \> Could pulling on the bowden tube cause the ceramic heating element to get too hot? I must be missing something.

    No. Something else at work here. Not sure what happened. But here's what to do going forward.

    Decide if you want to make this a Warranty complaint. If so, contact your vendor.

    If you decide to wing it on your own, replace the thermistor.

    US sources: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HCKI7NW

    https://tinymachines3d.com/products/creality-direct-replacement-thermistor

    (The shipping's high, but you can get a heater, some nozzles, or a Capricorn tube to make it worth it, you'll need those at some point anyway. Buy at least TWO thermistors they're delicate little suckers.) Great Vendor!

    You might also take the fan assembly off and double check everything on the hotend. Pull it too, and check the little screws on the bottom, especially the small grub (or set screw) that holds the heater, they tend to come loose or disappear! Might replace the heater if it looks overheated.

    All this is pretty cheap to fix, but if it's a bad **motherboard** that caused it all, you'll need to deal with the vendor.

    Good luck and let us know how i works out.

    PP
u/oprahoncrack · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

That makes sense. I found some on amazon. Would these work ? Mmei NTC 3950 100k
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCKI7NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Xr5ZAbD2XJ2Q4

And since it looks like I will have to replace it, do you know of any tutorials of how to do so? It looks like I should be able to do it fin, but better safe than sorry.

And thank you very much for all your help with this.