#16 in Welding equipment & accessories
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Reddit mentions of NTE Electronics SW02-10 No-Clean Solder Wick, 4 Blue.098" Width, 10' Length
Sentiment score: 6
Reddit mentions: 12
We found 12 Reddit mentions of NTE Electronics SW02-10 No-Clean Solder Wick, 4 Blue.098" Width, 10' Length. Here are the top ones.
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- Removes up to four times more solder than conventional wick, and extracts solder much faster than wicks based on Type-R fluxes
- Residue left behind is halide free and non-conductive, so it does not have to be cleaned off the board
- 100% copper wick has fine braid design to promote strong capillary action to pull in excess solder
- Available with standard or anti-static bobbins
Features:
Specs:
Color | Beige |
Number of items | 1 |
Although not the cheapest, ebay is probably the easiest way to find faulty systems.
Some equipment recommendations:
To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:
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Here’s the solder wick I got that works great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z1kcBbWDJCB0T
LOL, that last part, it's happened to all of us though being honest. :P Anyways u/superuser41's suggestions are spot on. I use a Hakko FX888D myself & love it, very nice station for the money IMHO. Never used that particular sodapult but they are well regarded in the community.
Edit: This is a good tip for soldering switches & LEDs (my personal fav size/type for it). You may want to grab a few, it looks like the linked bundle only comes with one tip. Also this is a high quality solder in the right diameter for soldering switches/LEDs. This is good solder wick, This is a good flux, & I always recommend getting some tip tinner.
60/40 rosin core should be good.
Alpha Fry AT-31604 60-40 Rosin Core Solder (4 Ounces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030AP48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BhXXzbASH0FHM
Use solder wick and a wide tip to clean the old solder off
NTE Electronics SW02-10 No-Clean Solder Wick, #4 Blue, .098" Width, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9eXXzb1S3RHKS
Use lots flux. Coat the area before you use the wick and again before you solder. It helps bond the solder to the metal.
MG Chemicals No Clean Flux Paste, 10 ml Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mgXXzbTRM5G78
A good iron helps so very much. This is what I have
Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RiXXzb76H6WDS
However this should do for occasional use
Vastar 60W 110V Welding Soldering Iron with Adjustable Temperature Dial, 5pcs Interchangeable Different Soldering Iron Tips and Solder Tube for Soldering Repaired Usage, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RCB7KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_slXXzbQRJVVZ2
When you are done clean with 90% or above isopropyl alcohol and let dry before you use.
Watch some videos on how to use the wick. Its a great tool to have and works so much better than the crappy suckers.
https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-SW02-10-No-Clean-Solder/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498946921&sr=8-2&keywords=copper+wick
As was said before, these are rotary encoders.
I had an old piece of gear with these. One knob was broken. I discovered there are many options to consider for what the encoder is:
So probably this https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/PEC11R-4020F-N0024/PEC11R-4020F-N0024-ND/4699190
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In general, I used their search filters, here is a link to one less narrowed down too https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/sensors-transducers/encoders/507?k=&pkeyword=&sv=0&pv545=142&sf=0&FV=fffc0076%2Ca4019a%2C1140291%2C6240002%2Cffe001fb%2C3400006&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25
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To remove these from the PCB, you need to be good at desoldering. I used a solder iron with desolder wick
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I have this solder station https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi-premier-75w-Soldering-Station.html
A good solder station is important as the tip is very fine point, the heat is regulated and can be adjusted. I used about 350 to 400 degrees C heat. And the device is safe to use for static sensitive boards.
And solder wick https://www.amazon.ca/NTE-Electronics-SW02-10-No-Clean-Blue-098/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=solder+wick&qid=1565443539&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Having some fine tweezers is good too. I have these https://www.amazon.ca/TWEEZERMAN-Stainless-Tweezer-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000782SQY/ref=sr_1_54?keywords=tweezers&qid=1565443795&s=gateway&sr=8-54
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It is very important to not damage the circuit board when desoldering. be patient. The hard part with taking out rotary encoders is desoldering the mechanical support metal clips on the sides. These usually are wider and require more heat and time to melt and more messing with the solder wick to get all the solder out. I recommend desoldering the pins first, using small tweezers to move the pins to make sure they are loose. then work with the iron to alternate the mecanical support pieces to heat and gently rock back and forth.
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Another thing migh to try is to destroy the old broken encoder, small cutters to cut apart the pins and the supports. Just be careful again to not damage the other parts and the board. Then you can easier desolder the loose bits of metal remaining in the holes.
The approach worked well for me. I had a few iterations, since the first time I replaced an encoder, put the device back together, then i found a different encoder had stopped working. So back apart and I had to desolder it as well. But then I went on the learning curve of getting an encoder with the wrong number of pulses per revolution. It was a big wheel for the options, so it had 24 detents, but 12 pulses per revolution, and a push button switch, so some kind of special snow flake.
If these encoders you have here are just regular encoders without switches it should be possible for it to be repaired.
Of course if you don't have the tools already then it can be very expensive to ge them just to do this. I would recommend then finding someone who does have the tools and experience doing this.
The wires have to be disconnected, otherwise you will be measuring the parallel resistance of the speaker and the crossover board, which is different than just the speaker alone. Since parallel resistance is always less than the lowest of the separate resistances, that means the board could read 8 and your speaker could read 50 and your meter would say 6.9 measuring them together.
The sticker on the side says it's a 6 ohm, so it should measure somewhat close to that. If you get some solder wick and a solder sucker, de-soldering becomes much easier.
The backs of those tweeters do look different. Is that black part on the back the magnet, or is it a plastic cover? It makes me think maybe someone has been in these speakers before trying to figure out what was wrong with them. Although, it could be that they're just a different year and design than the other ones. Testing them will at least give you a rough idea if the voice coils are shot. You could replace them but if that doesn't fix the problem, then you've spent a lot of money for nothing. I prefer to test things and only replace the broken parts.
If you're convinced there is something wrong with these speakers, and you can't find anything wrong with the tweeters, then I think you may have no choice but to dig into the crossover board. It's the most likely culprit. The nice thing is, caps are not all that expensive, they're just a lot of work.
On the high end stuff, sometimes the crossover is integrated with the wire hookups, so you unscrew that from the back and pull it out. But if these don't have anything like that, you might have to take out the woofer. Make sure you save all the stuffing and put it back when you're done. Either way, there should be a way to access the board, usually either through the back or the woofer hole if the cabinet is glued together.
Still, make sure you double check everything upstream before you tear these speakers apart. This really sounds like an amp or a source problem.
This is what I got and it works pretty well. Try adding a little more solder so the wick can get better access to what's left and take it all away.
https://smile.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-SW02-10-No-Clean-Solder/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498369574&sr=1-4&keywords=solder+wick
additional parts
ribbon cable
Pro micro 3 pack
solder
Flux
Solder Wick
EDIT
In case you lose your marbles