I'm going to post a "hamster cheat sheet" I wrote for another thread.

Posted this in a different thread, but it's relevant here to:

Here are the current, evidence-based facts of how to make a hamster enclosure on the cheap. Hamsters have long been thought of as being the same as mice, but they have drastically different needs. If you're willing to meet them, you will have an awesome little friend! If you don't, you'll likely have an anxious bitey hamster like so many of us remember from childhood.

The Hamster

Syrian hamsters are the big, fluffy creatures you usually think of. They need more space, but are generally quite friendly. The females are more active, and while still friendly, will probably not want to just sit in your hand for too long. If you want a hamster more likely to cuddle, get a male. Males do drag around a fairly impressive ballsack, so if this upsets you, a female might be more to your liking. Syrian hamsters live alone. Always. Period.

Dwarf hamsters are not the same species as Syrian hamsters, and actually encompass several different species. These are smaller, faster and more mouselike in their appearance. For a first time hamster owner, the only breed I'd recommend is the Djungarian winter white, a Russian hamster that turns white in the winter (sometimes - depends on light levels and temperature). These are typically more friendly and less skittish than Robos (Robovoski hamsters).

They can be hybridized with the Campbell's, so if you're buying from a pet store, you'll likely get a hybrid (often called "sunfire" if it's white). All Djungarian hamsters have some kind of stripe down their back, whereas Robos do not. These hamsters can occasionally live with another of the same litter and gender, but will need the same space as the Syrian and you have to be ready to separate them at any time. Hamster can and do kill each other, and it's not pretty to find that in the morning!

Dwarf hamsters are perfectly happy to live on their own, even if they have a cage mate in the pet store. Pet stores rarely, if ever, are aware of proper hamster care.

The Enclosure

For a Syrian (also called golden, teddy bear, panda bear), use two 44 gallon storage tanks - or something of equivalent floor space. Don't worry about chew-throughs; the plastic is sturdy and with adequate SPACE and enrichment hamsters will not chew on their enclosures as much, or at all. Cut a LARGE rectangular hole in one end of each bin and use hot glue and strips from the material you removed to securely fasten the cages to one another. It can also help to glue a piece of cardboard like a "patch" to the outside bottom of your habitat bridging the two containers for extra support.

Make sure no "lip" is visible on the floor between the cages after you put around 4 inches of bedding in there. (so basically, start your hole about an inch or so above the bottom of the container). You want the hamster to feel like they are in one big box, not to small ones joined with a pipe. Then, cut out a large rectangle in the lid, and zip-tie some wire mesh in there.

This example is of a single cage, suited for a Dwarf like a winter white (the best dwarf hamster, don't get a Robovoski if you've never had hamsters. A Syrian would need two of these, joined as above.

Bedding

For the bedding, use aspen or beech chips or shavings (avoid super fine dust). You can buy a 50 pound bag for very little money. Carefresh is more expensive and doesn't pack as well for tunneling. Cedar and pine have volatile resins that will kill your hamster. Get some orchard grass at the pet store and layer it with the aspen shavings so that the hamster's tunnel system and nest won't collapse. Heap up quite a bit in half of one of the bins so it's around 6-8 inches deep (again, AFTER packing it down with reasonable pressure). 3-4 inches is sufficient for the rest of the enclosure. Contrary to the stereotype, hamsters are quite clean and you only need to change maybe a 3rd of the bedding every month and a half or so, as long as you're spot-cleaning any obviously soiled areas.

Finally, tuck some toilet paper in your belt, or your bra, and carry it around for an hour. Then shred it finely and put it in the enclosure next to the deep section of the bedding. This will help the hamster become accustomed to your smell.

Sand Bath

All hamsters need a sand bath, preferably two. I like to use one of those little tilted cookie jars to contain the sand, although a dish will do just fine. Your hamster will typically pee in one, and wash itself in the other (the sand helps absorb oils and knock dust off their coat). Don't use chinchilla dust - this will poison your hamster via inhalation. Pre-rinsed aquarium sand is usually quite cheap from the pet store. It's sometimes called "aquarium substrate." Just make sure it doesn't obviously advertise it as a calcium or "live reef" sand. Your hamster licks itself to clean, and although it will spit out the sand, you don't want it ODing on some kind of additive.

I dump the sand bath out every couple weeks or so and wipe it down, but I don't sterilize it - the slight smell of pee helps your hamster remember to use it, and not other places, for the bathroom. Your hamster will still likely crap everywhere, but that's ok - hamster poo does not contain harmful bacteria to the hamster, and they often re-ingest pieces that still have nutrients.

Toys

Hamsters 100%, absolutely need a wheel. For Syrian hamsters, they need a 12-inch diameter wheel. Any wheel that forces the hamster to bend its back upwards will hasten arthritis and back problems. Dwarf hamsters can have a 6 inch wheel, but an 8 inch is better. Silent Spinner brand wheels are great for dwarfs, but for Syrians I prefer the simplest of the Carolina Storm brand wheels. They're homemade and are the quietest wheels ever!

Toys are where you can get creative! There are all kinds of fun and whimsical wooden toys. Expect all toys to be chewed on, so make sure they're non-toxic. The bird section in the pet store is another great place to find hamster toys. I raid garage sales for little ceramic dishes and knicknacks, since your hamster will NOT chew on these (it's really the only thing they don't). You can make great hiding places and sit spots with these kind of things.

Pet store tubes are ONLY appropriate for dwarfs. Don't make them climb very high in your creation. Syrians are too big and can injure themselves.

I also recommend a nice hardwood branch (so, from a fruit tree or other hardwood. Nothing evergreen. If you collect this yourself give it a good scrub with soap and water, then bake it in the oven on the lowest setting (150 - 200F). Your hamster will likely use this to sharpen and trim their teeth. Overgrown teeth are a serious health problem, so don't skimp on things your hamster can chew.

My hamster loves little puzzles, like cardboard balls (omnipresent on hamster youtube channels - you'll find instructions everywhere), dangling walnut shells with treats inside etc. Syrians are especially prone to boredom, so I like to scatter most of the dry food (about 2 tablespoons per day) throughout the cage, and hand-feed any fresh food, though I may leave it in their dish.

Food

For a guaranteed balance of what your hamster needs, mix Higgins Sunburst formula (not any other ones) 50/50 with Mazuri Rat & Mouse (a large pellet food). You can also give your little buddy small amounts of vegetables (look up which ones are safe. My hamsters love arugula!), hard boiled egg pieces, and milk-bone treats.

Water

Get a glass water bottle with the typical ball-spout thingy. I use 3M Velcro to attach it to the enclosure (usually near the wheel, furthest from the nest area). Be sure to wipe down the area you're going to put it with a little rubbing alcohol and dry thoroughly - it's probably dusty from the bedding. Hang it quite low so your hamster doesn't have to rear up much to drink.

Brands

Generally Oxbow and Higgins tend to be good brands for food, accessories and stuff like hay and bedding. Kaytee is ok for toys, terrible for food. Never get Petsmart or Petco brand food.

When You Bring it Home

This is the hardest thing on the list. Leave it alone for a week. Seriously. Get it on a Saturday and don't pester the little fellow until next Saturday. (obviously clean the wheel if they pee in it, change food and water if it's low). Hamsters patrol an area of up to five square miles in the wild, and in a new place, they need to establish their hiding places, their feeding grounds, their exercise area, and also assess how many predators there are. Continue leaving small amounts of toilet paper with your scent on it throughout the week, and on the next Saturday you can start to make friends. Taming is a whole separate article, but it takes a little work before your hamster is cool with just being picked up randomly.

Having a hamster is a wonderful project, and it can be inexpensive and easy. The only difficult part is acquiring the knowledge, as it goes against the stereotypes that are ingrained in American culture (that hamster = mouse).

If any of this seems daunting, and you just want an easy critter that can live in one of those fun cages with all the tubes and bulbs, get a pair of (same gender) fancy mice instead. They're meant to live in groups in enclosed spaces, are smaller and practically pre-tamed.