Reddit mentions of Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure, Black, Mini-v308

Some background: I was following this thread on tesla owners online closely and was very nervous about the errors folks were running into. Because it all sounded over my head, I went to a professional installer with some insights I learned from the thread.

Well, the installer kinda botched the job. I wasn't happy with the sound (they had to remove my LC2i due to turn-off "thump") and I was very unhappy with their shoddy wiring job & relay placement.

So, I opted to do it all over again myself, and I just finished it today. I'll detail what you see here:

• Audio gear: pioneer shallow sub firing downwards, Kicker CXA600.1 amp, LC2i hi-lo converter.
  
• Turn on signal comes from trailer plug in VC_LEFT
  
• Audio signal comes from front left speaker (audio installer told me they found mono signal, but I've yet to fully test that... I'm suspicious that they lied to me) Update: installer lied, I only have left channel audio, and he was also fired. Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend...
  
• 12V power comes from DC-DC converter in the penthouse (under the right rear seat)
  
• Power goes to 60A solid state relay (small black rectangle with plastic cover) . The relay isolates the sub amp from the 12V source when the car is off. This prevents many errors from occurring due to phantom current draw. Lots of details on this in the above thread.
  
• Turn on signal controls the relay on/off, and jumps to turn on the LC2i and amp
  
• 4ohm 100W resistor is wired in parallel (bright green) with the relay switch contacts to provide a turn-off delay. This was originally to prevent the "turn off thump" but I found that I had no thump with this new setup. I connected the resistor anyway to help protect the SSR. With 12-14V @ 4ohms, that should only be able to pull ~3.5A max, which should prevent any issues during the DC-DC converter turn on/off activity while the car sleeps. Resistor is totally bypassed when relay is on.
  
• And last but certainly not least, I grounded it all to the post where the premium model 3 amp is grounded. It's just to the right of the trunk cubby, behind the carpet and a plastic divider that I believe is just there so the carpet doesn't droop inward.
  
  If you have any questions let me know! The system sounds impeccable with the added low end. Very happy with the result and it was all worth it in the end.

Are you going to have rear speakers? or just fronts? and run 3 channel amp?

If you are going to have front and rear speakers. I would go with the following set up.

amp https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk-m9005d-car-amplifier

and

sub https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX3002-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=sr_1_40?crid=2GIYJPUPWZ95Y&keywords=10+loaded+subwoofer+box&qid=1555076614&s=gateway&sprefix=10+loaded+subwoofer+box%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-40

​

My reasoning is this. If you want space, this sub box can be placed firing down, and you can put stuff on top of it. And also by going with a 5 channel amp you can just need 1 power wire from the battery to the 1 amp, with your set up your going to have to split that wire, one to the amp and one to the powered sub. And this still meets your budget. you can probably find a cheaper 5 channel amp, or a 3 channel if your going that route. but skar is awesome for the price and the punch. i've been really happy with my skar amps.

Is 700CAD ~$1000 USD? It seems like you can afford a stereo amp $150, sub amp $200, Wiring (Big 3 & power leads) $100, two subs to fit on passenger floor wells, $250+. With the rest you could get a new head unit and extras you'll need.

OK, so you have like $500. In this case the 4-channel is a good idea, but you'll need the right subs with it, and the prefab looks expensive. I'd suggest a Pioneer flat sub. This is a good bargain 4 channel which I like because it has a sub remote for the 3/4 channel plus a built in temp & volt meter. Also that MB Quartz is a good budget amp, I have a similar 5 ch version. For your budget, get a sealed sub because a small vented sub sucks, and you can add a 2nd sealed in the other foot well later pretty easily.

For the amps I actually found this really cool YouTube channel that tests out budget amps to see if they are "up to Snuff" or trash.
Here is my build:

Door speakers
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059AK2T0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Amp for door speakers
Dual Electronics XPR84D 2/1 High Performance Power MOSFET Class D Car Amplifier with 1,000-Watts of Dynamic Peak Power

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849

Sub
Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V-c4BbJW5C6F2

Amp for Sub
Audiopipe AMPI-1500 1500 Watts 1 Channel Mono Amplifier

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Audiopipe-AMPI-1500-1500-Watts-1-Channel-Mono-Amplifier/48123860

If space is what you need, I can vouch for this guy... I am 38 and have a baby seat in the car as well, so your mileage may vary.

I'll answer most of your questions. The system you are building is actually made to be loud not SQ.

Crutchfield doesn't have your car listed yet, so I won't recommend a speaker unless you are into modifying your door to make them fit. Out of the two speakers you are looking at I would go with the GTO629 just because of the tweeter and the higher sensitivity for the same power.

It will be expensive and loud if you replace all four doors, which I don't recommend. You can get one set of the GTO629 for the front then the 6520 for the rear.

I use this Noico product on my doors and rear and I think it works fine for budget installs. You'll have plenty leftover for the trunk and trunk lid especially if you have a subwoofer back there.

Depending on the kind of music you listen to the speakers alone might be enough, but people really like bass in their cars so I would recommend a subwoofer. Those speakers will not be able to produce sub bass, so you'll be missing out. I use this Pioneer sub and it does a good job of handling sub bass while laying flat and you can put stuff on top of it.

Tie it all together with this NVX amp and you'll be set.