Reddit mentions of Red Devil 1170 PLEXIGLASS Cutting TOOLCARDED

Sentiment score: 3
Reddit mentions: 9

We found 9 Reddit mentions of Red Devil 1170 PLEXIGLASS Cutting TOOLCARDED. Here are the top ones.

Red Devil 1170 PLEXIGLASS Cutting TOOLCARDED
Buying options
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    Features:
  • Fast and easy
  • Super-sharp steel blade
  • For Plexiglas, acrylic and plastic
  • Use to scribe Plexiglas and then snap at the cut line
  • Not for use with Lexan
Specs:
ColorRed
Height1.2 Inches
Length7.9 Inches
Number of items1
Size1 Pack
Weight0.063 Pounds
Width3.7 Inches

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Found 9 comments on Red Devil 1170 PLEXIGLASS Cutting TOOLCARDED:

u/TheFuriousGoat · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Thank you!
It wasn’t that hard, here’s the materials

Plexiglass 12 x 12 Clear Acrylic Sheet - 1/8 th (.125) inch thick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBVKDPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fuw3AbF00WHZA

Red Devil 1170 Plexiglass Cutting Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZZ1D0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7uw3AbWAMMW9Y

Adhesive Vinyl Sheets - 30 Pack 12'' X 12'' Premium Permanent Self Adhesive Vinyl Sheets-Assorted Colors for Cricut,Silhouette Cameo,Craft Cutters,Printers,Letters,Decals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GRNT2H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jvw3AbD0TD3RC

And of course some spray paint

  1. Measure the top of the gpu (L and W)
  2. Mark the plexiglass sheet to your measurements, and score it with the cutter until it’s about halfway down, the put it on the edge of the table, and snap it, it will break along the line
  3. Sand any rough edges
  4. Pint out the logo you want, (I did it ok normal paper, then glued it on the vinyl) then cut it out of the vinyl
  5. Put the logo made out of vinyl onto the cut acrylic ( it has adhesive)
  6. Paint the top, and bottom of the acrylic ( bottom color for the color of the logo / design
  7. Once it drys, peel off the stencils
  8. ?????
  9. Profit
  10. Repeat and sell to people with left over materials???
  11. More profit?????

    I just placed it on-top of the gpu, but you could use some cheap “mounting tape”, then it’s not going anywhere!
u/MSD0 · 5 pointsr/Machinists

Use a scoring tool with a straight edge and snap it.

u/evwark · 5 pointsr/Astronomy

I'd recommend a piece of red plexiglass. It's a little more expensive than cellophane, but it won't crinkle and it'll last pretty much forever. You can buy the stuff here. You can specify the size you need, or if you're up for it, just buy a larger piece and cut it yourself with a plexiglass knife.

u/jamesnufc · 3 pointsr/howto

reddiquette I made one of these a while back, here's how I made it. Obviously feel free to the substitute the materials I listed for whatever you want. The final product (I'll post pics later) wasn't exactly beautiful, but it works!

Materials:

-Some type of container that will make up the structure of your infinity mirror. I used a paper mache box that is sturdy and able to easily open up


-A mirror. This should be a similar size to the container above.


-Adhesive film with a transparent side and a mirror side


-Plexiglass

-Something to cut the plexiglass with

-Some sweet lights


-Glue

Steps:
(for the purpose of keeping it simple I'm going to assume the materials are the same ones I used that are listed above).


  1. Cut out the bottom of the box (the part that doesn't lift up) so that the whole mirror (minus the edges) is visible when the box is open.
  2. Glue the edges of the mirror to the edges of the box so that is firmly in place
  3. Cut the plexiglass with the special plexiglass cutting tool so that it is exactly the same length and width as the top face of box. This step might be a little difficult as the plexiglass is kinda thick. I found that cutting it from either side and then 'snapping' it produced a nice clean break
  4. Cut the adhesive film to the same length and width of the piece of plexigalss you just cut
  5. On ONE side of the plexiglass, stick on the adhesive film so that it fully covers one side. Try and make it as smooth as possible without any air bubbles/wrinkles - think of it as putting on a screen protector on a phone
  6. Cut a hole in the top of the box leaving around an inch on each side
  7. Open the box up and using the glue, stick the piece of plexiglass to the underside of the top face using the inch margins on each side. NOT THAT THE FILM MIRROR SIDE OF THE PLEXIGLASS SHOULD FACE INWARDS TOWARD THE BOX)
  8. With the box still open, stick the LED lights around the inside perimeter of the side of the box. There may be some excess length which is fine
  9. Cut a hole in the side of the box large enough for any excess lights and the controller to fit through and then pull them thru so that they are on the outside of the box.
  10. Close the box up and turn on the lights! The ones I recommended have a ton of different color, flashing and speed settings so you can create some pretty cool effects.


    I know that at first glance this might look pretty confusing. As soon as I get some time I'll post some pics of each stage to help with the explanations, as even reading back on them they do sound somewhat confusing!
u/tstock · 3 pointsr/Permaculture

scoring and snapping, sorry, I have no special tip. I never had trouble AFTER I bought the right tool, a knife that looks like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-1170-Plexiglass-Cutting/dp/B000BZZ1D0

u/shiftingtech · 3 pointsr/voroncorexy

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

u/Meatspace_Gaming · 2 pointsr/DIY

If it's too thick for an X-Acto, I'd consider a plexiglass cutting tool (one of those little knives with a hook on the end). I've used that for both plexiglass and vinyl. The upside is that you'll be able to cut it quicker. The drawback is that you're going to get a rougher edge than if you used the X-Acto.

Edit: Also, I wouldn't suggest that exact thing that I linked. That's just there for an example. My local hardware store sells cheaper ones for a buck each, and when I need them, I usually pick up five or six.

u/tank_monkey · 2 pointsr/DIY

Yeah, $5.73 on Amazon