Reddit mentions of Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 Thermal Pad, 120 × 20 × 1.0 mm

As I stated and linked in imgur album, Thermal Grizzly pads, 1mm.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Minus-High-Performance/dp/B00ZJS8RWQ


Because I didnt feel like looking and waiting for thermal tape online or searching around town when I could walk across the street to Wal-Mart and get polish that I needed and and I liked how it gaurenteed that I sealed all the diodes up

Oh, you said you already had that so I assumed you didn't need it.

Gelid OC Extreme: https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03/dp/B002P5W4RU/

Grizzly Thermalpad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJS8RWQ/

NIDEC Fan: If you can find one at all and one that isn't shit like I got. They are hard and rare to get due to increased demand.
I got mine from here but it was damaged https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-PlayStation-4-PS4-Pro-Internal-Fan-G95C12MS1AJ-56J14-KSB1012H-CUH-7015B/222840647319?hash=item33e2566e97:m:mdoCV6CtvEfaOKvTVYb477g:sc:USPSFirstClass!98105!US!-1

If it's obnoxiously loud, then I'm a bit surprised to hear that you have a Nidec. Yes, it can't hurt to try replacing the thermal paste.

As has been widely recommended by other professionals on here, I went with this Gelid paste:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P5W4RU

And I replaced the square pads on the RAM with this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJS8RWQ

For the thermal pads, I used a razor to cut it into small squares like the original pad sizes. If you do that, the single strip should be enough for 4-5 Pro units.

I'll check into tutorials and follow up again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJS8RWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the pads

This is the heatsink I purchased, it is a set of 8 but they are pretty affordable even if you are only using 1.

Heatsink

The link you shared regarding Nidec vs Delta is correct. If you have 12 holes you are using a Delta fan at this time. 8 holes is for the Nidec fans.

Ordering and receiving the Nidec fan took about a month, I ordered it from China through this listing -

Nidec Fan

For the pads I picked up this set, yes they are 1mm-

Pads

The available sellers for that one on Amazon are gouging it like crazy.... I spent $11.75 when I ordered them, you may want to find a comparable alternative.

Here's what I bought. I just did mine and it's almost mouse fart quiet now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJS8RWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this video to disassemble and these photos to know where to apply the paste/grease and pads. Note that in the picture gallery, that guys is using liquid metal. The product above is not liquid metal, so you don't have to use the nail polish protection.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sg386lHY5Bk

https://imgur.com/gallery/420nWq8

When you replaced the thermal paste(Hope you did the entire die, the dot method for APU's does not work well). Did you also replace the Memory module (Also do the mosfets) pads with something better like this. If the temps of the mosfets or memory modules get hot(And they do get hot) the fan will also ramp up speed to cool them even if your APU is adequately cooled.

This manipulation will make your laptop a bit more bumpy chassis-wise and I won't take any responsibility if something goes wrong :P (Don’t forget to think about the warranty)

I am a lurker but I can really understand your feelings since I was in the same situation (same laptop) before however, I was able to fix this, let me explain How to avoid TDP-downs:

After dealing with multiple slim laptops and also thanks Reddit for some data, I have concluded that these are the main types of throttling linked with the thermals:

• CPU throttling (duh), however my laptop goes to 10W whereas the CPU was only around at the early eighties °C at 15W, and the laptop itself has another more powerful fan state at this temperature, so I think it is supposed to handle that CPU heat (these fans suck tbh).
  My laptop was not thermal throttling but power limiting (except at TDP-high but that’s not the issue) so I skipped it.
  
  
• software throttling, setting at High performance plan and removing + disabling the reinstallation of the Intel Dynamic Platform & Thermal Framework Driver should be enough (no, it won’t wreck your PC, but staying at High Performance will make your laptop uncomfortable because of the heat).
  
  
• VRM throttling, now this one is a little bit more implicit, but it is also very important, I am not an electronic expert and feel free to correct me, but I think that when it overheats, the component won’t be able to deliver as much power to the CPU thus the TDP-down. (Did Intel specified a TDP-down for mobile processors because slim laptops have generally a hard time cooling the CPU and VRMs at the same time?)
  
  To begin the fix you will need to buy these thermal pads (personally I bought two):
  https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Minus-High-Performance/dp/B00ZJS8RWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667081&sr=8-1&keywords=TG-MP8-120-20-10-1R
  
  So, I have sacrificed my laptop to check it, and after removing the black foil there are indeed some VRMs that are not under the heat sink. I have a very empirical way to find them (I don’t have a thermal camera unfortunately).
  Launch TS Bench from ThrottleStop and then on the back of the computer, near the CPU, try to find very hot components (the ones that are barely too hot to touch) then place 3-4 thermal pads on them so that it can reach the chassis of the laptop.
  
  Of course this is not enough, and that’s where the cooler joins in, I found two coolers that are really useful:
  
  
• a cross-flow fan:
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3971YK/ref=twister_B01F3971X6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  https://i.imgur.com/8IpUd4b.jpg
  
  The cross-flow fan is easier and cheaper to use however it is not as efficient as the next one, the laptop will be able to, at long term and at least, use 14W at 24°C ambient temperature. However, I would still buy it for travels etc.
  
  
• a DIY powerful fan stand:
  
  This one is not hard to do but requires some money but I suppose that budget won’t be your issue since the laptop itself is quite expensive already.
  
  For this you will need:
  
  
• a 3-pin 12V fan with good air pressure:
  https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-2000-140x140x25mm-2000rpm/dp/B00KESSI2A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667148&sr=1-1&keywords=B00KESSI2A
  
  
• fan grills:
  https://www.amazon.com/140mm-Black-Grill-Guard-screws/dp/B01M2YI7BM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667587&sr=1-3&keywords=fan+grill+140mm
  
  
• 5V to 12V USB to 3-pin:
  https://www.amazon.com/FAN2USB-12V-USB-Converting-Adapter/dp/B00MNB40ZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667190&sr=8-1&keywords=FAN2USB
  
  
• a stand with hole:
  https://www.amazon.com/Urbo-Adjustable-Heat-Vent-Elevate-Notebooks/dp/B01I0KN91I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667370&sr=8-2&keywords=urbo+stand
  
  The hole is where we are going to place the fan and the height will help the fan to get more air, so that is very important.
  
  
• a cable tie set to attach the fan on the stand:
  https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Nylon-Resistant-Cable-White/dp/B00UJ95URU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667534&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Tie+Set+400
  
  Optionally you can also buy a voltage regulator to turn it off but yeah unplugging the USB do the work too haha:
  https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667258&sr=1-1&keywords=FANMATE2
  
  After it is done and placed your laptop on it, you should be able to play all night without seeing the laptop throttling.
  
  I tried to exceed the 15W, but this step is probably impossible, with the cooling I was able to stay a few more seconds at almost 30W but even after dealing with max TDP via Throttlestop, it throttles down. I just think that HP has limited its device to 15W for long term state (no matter the thermals or power) which is quite understandable but still it would be nice to unlock it.
  I have for instance set the TDP max at 16W with ThrottleStop (so just a little bit more) and it still throttles after around 30 seconds to 15W with the cooler, I don’t know if I will give up but with -100mV undervolting I am able to reach STABLE 2.8ghz at full load, at 15W, so it is not that bad for a convertible 13-inch laptop.
  
  I would like to post more photos however I am on a trip for months, so I can't right now.
  
  Feel free to ask me any questions!
  
  EDIT: formatting because 1st post
  
  EDIT 2:
  
  Here is how I placed my thermal pads:
  https://i.imgur.com/0fHQTIl.jpg
  
  I have also stressed my laptop for almost 15min non-stop with my cross-flow fan, here are the results showing a stable performance:
  
  
• Start:
  https://i.imgur.com/h9Tq2fU.png
  
  
• End:
  https://i.imgur.com/j5P8osg.png

1mm thick is fine. You could get a 120mm x 20mm strip like this one so you can cut it to the right size.

I bought this:

Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 High Performance Thermal Pad - 120x20x1.0mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZJS8RWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xJ6UBb5YYZNJD

But keep in mind that it was just enough to cover everything. I almost ran out.