Reddit mentions of Tripp Lite Heavy Duty Computer Power Cord, 15A, 14AWG (NEMA 5-15P to IEC-320-C13), 6-ft. (P007-006)

Just make sure it can handle the amperage and youre good.

Something like this will do you just fine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JRMD0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Denons use a somewhat unusual C18 power receptacle, which takes a C17 to NEMA 1-15 cable (2-prong ungrounded power cable). A "standard" C13 to NEMA 5-15 computer cable will fit and work just fine though (still won't be grounded).

This should do well enough, but you should be able to find an equivalent cable at any electronics store if you ask for an IEC cable. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Computer-IEC-320-C13-P007-006/dp/B0027JRMD0/

specifically a standard plug is a :

NEMA 5-15P to IEC-320-C13

for a 750w PSU you need 7-8 amp rated cord 10-amp rated is pretty standard 18 awg type like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Standard-IEC-320-C13-P006-015/dp/B00B5Q73Z8

any 18 awg UL listed cord is just fine, and cheap.

better PSUs sometimes use maybe a 14awg cable like:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Computer-IEC-320-C13-P007-006/dp/B0027JRMD0

but a 750W psu doesn't need that thick of a cord, it also won't hurt anything if it has a thicker cord

I mean, shitty insulation on cables wearing out is generally what causes a cord to get retired one way or another. Industrial cables are pretty much guaranteed to have good insulation for whatever your use is, regardless of how much you move them around.

EDIT: Just digged up my purchase, Here is my power cord I bought for my computer monitor.

The only weak link.

Mine feel fine. Dont get warm at all.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027JRMD0/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521248477&sr=1&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3524794262&pd_rd_wg=RjjWV&pf_rd_r=015XNTRMS8DRHAWHD7BR&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B0027JRMD0&pd_rd_w=IyqPh&pf_rd_i=ac+power+cord+20a&pd_rd_r=2e1d962d-70e2-47f4-b4f3-5df3ffcbb9c0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Note that the link there is for 18AWG cables, which is only recommended for up to 2.3A, or ~275W at 120V (and probably safe for a bit more). That's fine for a monitor or a generic office computer, but if you're pulling more than 250W from the wall, I'd seriously look at a heavier gauge cable - it's going to cost a bit more, because copper is kind of expensive, but it's not that much more to get a good 14AWG power cable from a reputable manufacturer. Power cables aren't like cat5 or USB, they can carry serious power and voltage and it's not worth messing around with that.

Check on the back of your PSU. It'll either have a switch from 110>230, or be active PFC and have nothing. I am betting that it is the latter, especially for a 1200W unit, I have yet to see one with a switch (I would still check the specs on your PSU either on the side of the unit, or manufacturers website to confirm). This means you just need to buy a different power cord for it. Something like this, your standard C13/5-15P power cable.

Same would probably go for your monitors power supply. Check on it to make sure it has an input range of 100-240v (or close to that), should just need to change the cable from the PSU brick to the wall.

Someting like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027JRMD0?aaxitk=mTrtrIR8rshGZSkSr1Uwjg&pd_rd_i=B0027JRMD0&pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&hsa_cr_id=1147022550301&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=Tripp%2BLite%2BHeavy%2BDuty%2BComputer%2BPower%2BCord%2C%2B15A%2C%2B14AWG%2B(NEMA%2B5-15P%2Bto%2BIEC-320-C13)%2C%2B6-ft.%2B(P007-006)&sb-ci-a=B0027JRMD0&th=1

For the post part, as long as it's one of these cables then they're essentially all the same and rated for 15 amps, especially when it comes to display power since there's no way a modern PC monitor will take as many watts as an old school 27" CRT.

Thanks a ton. I'm a little bit less worried now. I bought the 6ft http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Heavy-Duty-IEC-320-C13-P007-006/dp/B0027JRMD0 .

Final update. The shape of the male socket in the hotplate did not allow for this cable to fit, because it had a cylindrical protrusion opposite from the ground (to stop you from using just any power cable). I simply used a drill to drill out a notch on the power cable so that it would fit into the hotplate, while being sure that all I was drilling out was rubber. Sorry I don't have a photo.

Your PSU should have come with a power cable. Contact either the storefront you purchased from or Corsair about that. If that doesn't work out, this seems like a decent replacement. Keep in mind that cheaper power cables tend to have thinner gauges, and can be dangerous due to high heat. As for your HDD to your mobo, you will need a sata cable.