Reddit mentions of Uxcell Nylon UV Resistant Cable Zip Wire Tie, 400 mm, White, 100 Piece

This manipulation will make your laptop a bit more bumpy chassis-wise and I won't take any responsibility if something goes wrong :P (Don’t forget to think about the warranty)

I am a lurker but I can really understand your feelings since I was in the same situation (same laptop) before however, I was able to fix this, let me explain How to avoid TDP-downs:

After dealing with multiple slim laptops and also thanks Reddit for some data, I have concluded that these are the main types of throttling linked with the thermals:

• CPU throttling (duh), however my laptop goes to 10W whereas the CPU was only around at the early eighties °C at 15W, and the laptop itself has another more powerful fan state at this temperature, so I think it is supposed to handle that CPU heat (these fans suck tbh).
  My laptop was not thermal throttling but power limiting (except at TDP-high but that’s not the issue) so I skipped it.
  
  
• software throttling, setting at High performance plan and removing + disabling the reinstallation of the Intel Dynamic Platform & Thermal Framework Driver should be enough (no, it won’t wreck your PC, but staying at High Performance will make your laptop uncomfortable because of the heat).
  
  
• VRM throttling, now this one is a little bit more implicit, but it is also very important, I am not an electronic expert and feel free to correct me, but I think that when it overheats, the component won’t be able to deliver as much power to the CPU thus the TDP-down. (Did Intel specified a TDP-down for mobile processors because slim laptops have generally a hard time cooling the CPU and VRMs at the same time?)
  
  To begin the fix you will need to buy these thermal pads (personally I bought two):
  https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Minus-High-Performance/dp/B00ZJS8RWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667081&sr=8-1&keywords=TG-MP8-120-20-10-1R
  
  So, I have sacrificed my laptop to check it, and after removing the black foil there are indeed some VRMs that are not under the heat sink. I have a very empirical way to find them (I don’t have a thermal camera unfortunately).
  Launch TS Bench from ThrottleStop and then on the back of the computer, near the CPU, try to find very hot components (the ones that are barely too hot to touch) then place 3-4 thermal pads on them so that it can reach the chassis of the laptop.
  
  Of course this is not enough, and that’s where the cooler joins in, I found two coolers that are really useful:
  
  
• a cross-flow fan:
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3971YK/ref=twister_B01F3971X6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  https://i.imgur.com/8IpUd4b.jpg
  
  The cross-flow fan is easier and cheaper to use however it is not as efficient as the next one, the laptop will be able to, at long term and at least, use 14W at 24°C ambient temperature. However, I would still buy it for travels etc.
  
  
• a DIY powerful fan stand:
  
  This one is not hard to do but requires some money but I suppose that budget won’t be your issue since the laptop itself is quite expensive already.
  
  For this you will need:
  
  
• a 3-pin 12V fan with good air pressure:
  https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-2000-140x140x25mm-2000rpm/dp/B00KESSI2A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667148&sr=1-1&keywords=B00KESSI2A
  
  
• fan grills:
  https://www.amazon.com/140mm-Black-Grill-Guard-screws/dp/B01M2YI7BM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667587&sr=1-3&keywords=fan+grill+140mm
  
  
• 5V to 12V USB to 3-pin:
  https://www.amazon.com/FAN2USB-12V-USB-Converting-Adapter/dp/B00MNB40ZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667190&sr=8-1&keywords=FAN2USB
  
  
• a stand with hole:
  https://www.amazon.com/Urbo-Adjustable-Heat-Vent-Elevate-Notebooks/dp/B01I0KN91I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667370&sr=8-2&keywords=urbo+stand
  
  The hole is where we are going to place the fan and the height will help the fan to get more air, so that is very important.
  
  
• a cable tie set to attach the fan on the stand:
  https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Nylon-Resistant-Cable-White/dp/B00UJ95URU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667534&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Tie+Set+400
  
  Optionally you can also buy a voltage regulator to turn it off but yeah unplugging the USB do the work too haha:
  https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667258&sr=1-1&keywords=FANMATE2
  
  After it is done and placed your laptop on it, you should be able to play all night without seeing the laptop throttling.
  
  I tried to exceed the 15W, but this step is probably impossible, with the cooling I was able to stay a few more seconds at almost 30W but even after dealing with max TDP via Throttlestop, it throttles down. I just think that HP has limited its device to 15W for long term state (no matter the thermals or power) which is quite understandable but still it would be nice to unlock it.
  I have for instance set the TDP max at 16W with ThrottleStop (so just a little bit more) and it still throttles after around 30 seconds to 15W with the cooler, I don’t know if I will give up but with -100mV undervolting I am able to reach STABLE 2.8ghz at full load, at 15W, so it is not that bad for a convertible 13-inch laptop.
  
  I would like to post more photos however I am on a trip for months, so I can't right now.
  
  Feel free to ask me any questions!
  
  EDIT: formatting because 1st post
  
  EDIT 2:
  
  Here is how I placed my thermal pads:
  https://i.imgur.com/0fHQTIl.jpg
  
  I have also stressed my laptop for almost 15min non-stop with my cross-flow fan, here are the results showing a stable performance:
  
  
• Start:
  https://i.imgur.com/h9Tq2fU.png
  
  
• End:
  https://i.imgur.com/j5P8osg.png