Reddit mentions of WD Blue 500GB Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 16MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD5000AAKX

That hard drive is not a good value. Use something like this.

Also, you should have at least 4GB of RAM. It's super cheap these days. Last but not least: the power supplies that come with cases are known for being of very low quality. As cheap as you want the computer to be, don't risk destroying it with a crappy PSU. Use something like this at least.

Yeah this is closer to what you should be aiming for with that kind of budget.

A few small things; that drive looks kinda sketchy, I'd prefer if you spend a bit more on one with more reviews like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00461G3MS/?tag=pcpapi-20

The second thing is if I'm not mistaken, the 6870 needs two pcie connectors and the psu only come with one.

The op could also go with an i5-2400 which will perform a lot better than an 955, and you'll still end up below your original budget.

I would spend a little more on a hard drive, just because its a lot more space for only $20 bucks more. And I love WD.

an option is to drop the ssd for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-500GB-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00461G3MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479070557&sr=8-1&keywords=western+digital+500

Drop down to 4GB RAM, get this drive instead as it's better suited for a boot drive. Get this PSU instead. That GPU is very weak by modern standards, even a 520GT will beat it and is the main weak point in the build and big problem on a tight budget.

I would wait though, you would be better off waiting for Ivy Bridge and using the improved on-die GPU, or waiting for trinity APUs from AMD (or w/e they are) if they release in time.

Your case has a power supply. The One Hundred is pretty competitively priced right now, after rebate.

You can also get a nice 6870 for about $12 more after rebate. Make the cost increase smaller by getting this Caviar Blue SKU instead.

I went with the Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB as a different hdd, its only 500gb and its OEM but I don't really need the 1TB space and I'm fine with OEM.

You’re gonna need something to store data. Perhaps something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00461G3MS/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1570890312&sr=1-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65 .

This is the hard drive: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00461G3MS/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

Question, how do I update drivers normally? I had to download Driver Booster, a program by IoBit that does it for me, as I had heard that Windows Update gave me driver updates too, but I never saw them in the list.

Hm. Refurbished? Not sure how I feel about that. I mean in general I think you would be alright but still..

I got this one for my build but it's a little more expensive than the one you're looking at.

This is all you'll need.

http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Cache-Desktop/dp/B00461G3MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347511617&sr=8-1&keywords=500+gig+hdd+laptop

500 gig may seem like a lot, and for a PS3 it is, but that's the point. Buy this bad boy and space is no longer an issue.

Swapping it out is simple. Just a few screws, pull out the old, in with the new, screw it all back in, and you're done.

A problem you'll face is transferring saves and other information from the old to the new. While you could simply copy over using a thumb drive, there are some saves that can't be moved like this. For those, nothing short of a full transfer over can save these files, and to do that you'll need to USB link two PS3's. Oh, and make sure your trophies are sync'd, or you'll lose them with the switch.

When I made the upgrade, I just started all over again.

I'd keep the Mobo + CPU, but I'd then do this:

Case: Thermaltake v4 Black Edition

PSU: Corsair Builder Series 600w 80 PLUS

Heatsink: ARCTIC Freezer 7 pro Rev.2

Ram: Corsair Vengeance 2x 2gb

GPU: EVGA GTX 600 ti Superclocked Edition

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB

Total (Including your Mobo + CPU pick): £647.65, including an After-Market Heatsink, $623 without heatsink.

Plus you can find these items cheaper elsewhere on the internet. These are all from amazon, and we all know Amazon overprice everything. I'd say you can save another $30 if you go to newegg or other places with these parts.

You'll want a 7200 RPM HDD. The green drives work best as designated storage (i.e. not running applications). I'd look at something like a WD Caviar Blue for example, if you want the same capacity for the same price. It's also SATA III instead of SATA II.

nevermind that if you read what I said before this edit. Will this work then? http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Cache-Desktop/dp/B00461G3MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341978805&sr=8-1&keywords=sata+hard+drive

Would something like this be a viable option?https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00461G3MS/?tag=pcp0f-20

What should I look for in an SSD? I heard that some of them are faster or something.

oh this will last very, very well. and as for the storage, the great thing about it, is that you can always add more. 240gb is a tight fit no doubt, but you can always order more.

and HDDs are super cheap too.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-500GB-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00461G3MS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491503192&sr=8-1&keywords=wd+blue+500gb

Relatively straightforward:
I'm looking for a case that will house my Mini-ITX MoBo, GTX 1060 6GB, EVGA 500W PSU, 500GB HDD. Everything needs to fit comfortably with plenty of room for upgrades in the future and proper airflow. Any recommended cases would be great. Thanks!

http://smile.amazon.com/Verbatim-Blu-ray-Recordable-25-Disc-97457/dp/B00471HK0Q/

625GB of storage for $24.

http://smile.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Cache-Desktop/dp/B00461G3MS

Cheapest 500GB HDD I could find: $42

The Blu-Rays are about 1/3 as fast (27MB/s vs. 75), but they're easier to distribute if you need to send video around without an Internet connection in excess of 200Mbps.

I forgot the mouse and keyboard in the build, so here they are. I got all the rest of it in there, and quite honestly I don't know how it's almost the same price haha. Keep in mind you'll have to pay provincial tax on it. (pretty sure)

EDIT: I just noticed that the hard drive got added from some weird site with a low price, not sure what that's about... but it explains why the build is so cheap. I'd consider this hard drive instead, and taking out the solid state drive.

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $219.69 @ DirectCanada
Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $134.69 @ DirectCanada
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $44.69 @ DirectCanada
Hard Drive | Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Buy.com Canada
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $91.99 @ Amazon Canada
Video Card | MSI Radeon HD 6950 1GB Video Card | $228.49 @ Vuugo
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.98 @ NCIX
Power Supply | Antec 750W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $129.99 @ NCIX
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer | $17.69 @ DirectCanada
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) | $105.92 @ TigerDirect Canada
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $1083.12
| Generated 2012-03-13 23:04 EDT-0400 |

> No, it couldn't have been. 0x400 can be expressed as a power of two, i.e. 2^10. 0x3e8 can't

And why does it have to be expressed as a power of 2? The only technical reason I can think of is that it would make addressing slightly easier, but even still you'll have unused address bits and you'll need a microcontroller to do address translation either way. There is no technical reason storage has to be made in powers of 2 and in fact most hard drives you buy these days do not have power of 2 capacity.

> It achieved the opposite of what was intended, i.e. to make the whole affair clearer and easier to use.

So you are saying kibi/mebi makes things less clear? If I tell you my chip holds 512 mebibytes, you know exactly how many bytes it holds without looking at a datasheet.

> It was completely pointless because we already had a system that worked. It wasn't perfect and technically not accurate, but it still worked.

"The British imperial system works, it's not perfect but it works, why should we switch to metric?" Also, it's not pointless because the current system is ambiguous.

> The whole thing was completely pointless and a waste of time, but with the result that instead of one system we now have two, and people -- including those you think should know -- keep mixing them up.

We never had one unified system. Maybe in the 1970s we did but the reason kebi/mebi/gibi was introduced was because it was getting really confusing when vendors started selling hard drives with SI units. Once they started doing that, the term "kilo", "giga", etc. became ambiguous, which is bad. Can we agree that ambiguity is bad?

Look: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-500GB-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00461G3MS

Simple question: how many bytes does that hard drive hold? Oops, you can't answer because it's ambiguous whether vendor is using SI units or legacy units.

I happen to know it's using SI units, so the answer is 500,000,000,000,000 bytes. I know this because it shows up as 465.66 GB in Windows (465.66 GiB in Linux), and 465.66 Gibibytes = 500,000,000,000,000 bytes.

My main desire is to eliminate ambiguity. My solution is to standardize the prefixes we use. My solution is robust and scales to any units in any radix. If ternary computers or quantum computers become a thing, units will be unambiguous.

Your solution is to just club everyone over the head and try to get them to change their minds into using units of 1024 for SI prefixes only when talking about binary computer memory. Let's see how well that works for you.

As for me, I will continue campaigning to eliminate ambiguity.

What's your budget? I found them cheaper on amazon.They're $2-$3 more than the Hitachi though. Newegg's prices are way higher as of now.

500GB WD Caviar Blue

500GB Seagate Barracuda

So the average gamer or their parent has to:

1. Have the knowledge and ability to collect computer parts and piece it together like "Legos"
   
   
2. Make sure that their motherboards are compatible with the right cpu bundle and chipset. Or maybe they should get a combo? But which one?
   
   
3. Learn the basics of a free operating system on their machine (Linix) (cause paying over $100.00 for Windows will eat into their budget)
   
   Or they can pay 400 bucks and have something ready for them right out of the box plus a game.
   
   The fact that you'd have to spend countless hours for a foundational knowledge base then spend the time putting the parts for the PC together after you've gone out and bought all the parts isn't worth it for console gamers then trouble shoot the damn thing (cause let's face it, maybe once every hundred builds does the thing fire up without a hitch.
   
   And what performance level are you willing to play the game at? Sure, let's forget the 980. I was talking about just myself. Let's go with an older model. Something cheaper. Say a 750ti. That will cost me $120 - $130 on average, but now I've to make sure I'm powering it and my cpu with a enough juice from a PSU that could cost around $60.00 for a decent corsair mid range 550W. Now you've to get ram...hmmm, HDD, mobo/cpu combo... (cause, shit, i need to get it bundled to make my life easier) case, and I'm assuming you'll just jack in some cheap "gaming" headphones to the back of the mii tower where the onboard sound card's audio jack is exposed instead of buying any speakers cause that's just an extra costs (or maybe play with no sound at all) that'll take me over my gaming budget for my kid already. And who cares about a monitor? If I was gonna hookup the Ps4 to the living room tv, might as well do the same for this sweet new rig right? (Good luck having mom allow that).
   
   What's that? Your kid wants an exclusive AAA game? Well crap, now when I'm finished finding out how to install that Loonex or Linez or whatever it's called operating system into this machine successfully, let me get this thing called "steam" downloaded and then hopefully, with a fast enough internet connection, I can download Doom for him within the next 2-3 hours so he can play. Well, let's slap on another $60.00 right there.
   
   What's that? You need a mouse and keyboard? Well shit, there's another $30.00 if you wanna go a cheap yet acceptable route. Man all this price comparing has got me sweating up a storm. Oh yeah, shipping costs? Taxes? Now you're at $530-$600. What if something is DOA? What if I don't get all my parts? I was so ready to start playing Legos!! Now my kid is upset!
   
   Let's put all this shit together now. Oh crap! It won't boot. Well, let me check my physical setup. Did I get the right ram? What clock speed should it be?
   
   Maybe I should have bought a bundled steam machine system from Alienware? Wait! That's still like $230 bucks more than the Ps4! Grrrrrrrr! I just want to buy something for my kids to play!
   
   

They are so damn expensive right now

800$ is budget, and I can get a HDD, like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00461G3MS/?tag=pcpapi-20

500 GB hard drive...100 dollars...? What?

$56.22

$57.95

$59.99

$51.23

And the Kinect is not the same justification - the justification given here is that the cheapest Blu-Ray players at the time were more expensive than the entire PS3. And that it was something useful outside of the system, not a gaming peripheral. 2/10 for effort.

This is the drive i want to get. Some reviews arent too good saying the drives failed early on and were 4 years old. Do you recommend it or should i spend more?

WD Blue 500GB Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6 Gb/s 16MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD5000AAKX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00461G3MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ppWtDb4NFFQ5Y

Fair enough, you can buy second hand really cheaply though if you do want something to tide you over.


this pc with this cheap video card and maybe an ssd or just a cheap 500gb hard drive.

Will play this okay, as well as basically any game with a few things turned down. If you just got the PC and the video card, it's $150.

If you want you could also put in this $20 500gb hdd, 7200 rpm