Reddit mentions of ZVS Driver Module 5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Board+Heating Coil

It's an induction heater. Everything is available on Amazon. It's very easy.

(For anyone else interested) Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).

Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

Good morning, frients!!! I just completed my IH build based on A LOT of research/lurking around these parts. Here are a few more pictures of the setup/internals:

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https://i.imgur.com/pEex7Xh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ntdy5qi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HoTzHAi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JDlo2FV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hiz0sea.jpg

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**Update/Parts List**

Box/Enclosure

Induction heater board w/coil

Glass tube

(I shoved a cork in there from an old craft beer bottle. I just shaved it down with an x-acto knife until I was happy with the fit/spacing)

Mosfet

Power supply

Red toggle switch

Momentary switch

DC panel-mount jack

Insulated crimp connectors

I used 16-gauge red/black wiring and insulated crimp connectors I had left over from previous projects.

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Here's the bubbler I was using with the optional glass mouthpiece.

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Total: ~$65 USD

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TL;DR This thing is badass and easy to put together. Do it!!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Module and Coil

ZVS Driver Module,5V-12V ZVS Low... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNM24YM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

12V 20A LED switch with cover

AutoEC New 12V/20A Red LED Illuminated On/off SPST Car Automotive Toggle Switch Button https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012IHZW4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YIOWCbX59GG36

18 gauge wire

BNTECHGO 18 Gauge Silicone Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AQOI36M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

12v 6a power supply

AspenTek Us Plug Dc 12v Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU63ICU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Then I used three spade connectors to attach the wires to the switch, which you can get from walmart

It's actually pretty simple. At it's most basic, try this comment from /u/improvaper


https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/a4xzkk/finally_jumped_on_the_dynavap_bandwagon_and_got/ebij6op


Make an induction heater! It's cheap and easy. I've been blasting my instructions everywhere around here lately. If you're interested, let me know and I'll blast them again here. :)

It's definitely worth the (extremely little) effort.

Edit: blasting:

I made mine for about $30 with parts available on Amazon:

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's standard screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).

Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

I don't know much about this. I like induction heating. Is this something to make one from?

ZVS Driver Module,5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Power Supply Board+Heating Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNM24YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xuQ2Db4SY3TA9

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.