Reddit mentions: The best photographic lighting mounting hardware

You need three things:

1. Manfrotto super clamp. The Kupo Convi Clamp works too and is cheaper.
   
2. Manfrotto magic arm. There are cheaper variations, but this thing is going to support your expensive gear. I don't skimp here.
   
3. Safety cables
   
   I don't remember if the Alien Bees have an obvious place for the safety cable to attach (my Einsteins didn't). If there isn't a place you can get 120lb. strength zip ties from a local hardware store and run one through the umbrella holder on the strobe to make a loop and then safety cable around that zip tie.
   
   Clamp to pole, use the magic arm to attach the light to the arm, and safety cable in case it comes loose.
   
   This is very similar to lighting for basketball arenas. A friend of mine, Joel, has a great blog entry on how to set up a similar system for indoor sports.
   
   Don't forget to come back and share photos of how it works out!

Trying to build a simple, large overhead rig for work for under $300 to do creative, top-down shots. We have a Canon EOS 7D and a 28-135mm lens that we will probably replace because it has an issue with the zoom sliding down at anything more than a 30 degree tilt.

I think I've come up with a pretty bare bones rig that will work. But since I usually just shoot by hand or tripod and don't have much experience with studio equipment, I was hoping someone could check to make sure this would work.

• Ravelli ABSL Backdrop Stand Kit (13' x 15')
  
• Manfrotto 035RL Super Clamp
  
• Manfrotto 494RC2 Ball Head w/ Quick Release
  
• AmazonBasics Wireless Remote
  
  Was hoping if someone could tell me if this seems okay. Could anyone recommend an affordable lens that would be good for shooting from about 8' - 10'? Furthermore, is there a somewhat inexpensive method for routing shots to a Macbook for review while shooting?
  
  EDIT: It looks like the best way to route shots is a 15' USB cable and to route into a software, so that should be pretty straightforward.

The crossbar and stands pictured seem a little too lightweight and would make me anxious but otherwise for attaching a lightweight camera in the middle, what I often use is:

• 1 x Cardellini Clamp
  
• Baby Pin to 3/8 adapter
  
• Manfrotto 3 way tripod head
  
  Cardellini clamp in the middle, attach the baby pin adapter to the baby pin end of the clamp, and then the tripod head to the 3/8 end of the adapter. Having the tripod head gives me the ability to make final adjustments to my camera’s positioning while overhead without having to physically move and adjust the stands.
  
  I would strongly advise using heavier duty support for any overhead rigging though. Swap out the regular light stands for c stands at minimum, and beefy babies or combo stands if you can. Use schedule 40 aluminum pipe (speedrail) or something like an avenger mini boom for the crossbar instead of what looks like a backdrop stand’s crossbar. And finally, find some way to hook on a safety chain to secure the load to the crossbar or better yet, the ceiling. Safety first!
  
  EDIT:
  
  Looking at the picture again you might be able to use a ceiling drop scissor clamp (https://www.amazon.com/Avenger-C1000-Drop-Ceiling-Scissor-Clamp/dp/B0000BZL05/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ceiling+scissor+clamp&qid=1557360959&s=gateway&sprefix=ceiling+sciss&sr=8-3) to get a baby pin coming down from the ceiling and serve as your starting mounting point (baby pin adapter and then tripod head after as above). Would be a more secure rigging option than the stands and crossbar pictured I feel.

Why not use the screw? There's tons of clamps with 1/4"-20 thread that are meant to put lights and such onto various types of poles for film and such. I use them myself to mount my light houses onto vertical braces from harbor freight. (They have a smaller footprint than a light stand or tripod.)

Here's some examples of the ones I'm using.
Pedco 1.5 Ultra Clamp

This will grip even onto a very thin pole. For the record I mount them to these poles. Harbor Freight 2 in 1 Ratcheting Cargo Bar

Here's some other excellent multi purpose clamps but they need a ticker pole to mount.

Limostudios Super Clamp It's a clone of the more expensive manfrotto super clamp. They fit on the blue portion of the brace, not the thinner silver extended portion.

These clamps are pretty universal and you can get a number of different attachments for them. You could screw the lighthouse right on there but you couldn't really aim it without a ball mount or you could get an arm like this or this though that second one might wobble with the lighthouse motor. Arkon makes a good very sturdy clamp I've used to mount camcorders on for years though I've broken lots of the quick mounting plates over time. The arm is much stronger than the superclamp arm I showed earlier. There's also small clamps like this one

Also for the thread as someone else mentioned there are adapters. This is likely the adapter you need as that's the other common screw size you see. but I can't really know without seeing the tripod. Personally I prefer to use clamps and mount to poles anyhow, it gives you a lot of mounting options.

Just returned from a research cruise a few days ago. I had fun with long exposure photos. I was just playing around, but some of the photos went well.

The vessel i was on had railings all over the place. I bought a Manfrotto Superclamp before the cruise and was very happy with the quality and steadiness.

Seamotion by Herbert Boettcher was kind of an inspiration. Before seeing his photos i never thought about long exposure on a ship, because so much is moving.

I also made some timelapse departing and arriving at the harbour, while working on the deck and underwater. Turned out nice and GoPros are a good choice. However, the view out of your window might get boring as soon as land is out of sight.

Cheers!

Bugger, they don't ship to my country. Do you think all of those 4-way things come with a normal wall-plug on the end? I've seen them on Ebay, but they all come from China and communicating with the sellers is hit-and-miss and not always prompt.

Do you have any thoughts on using less than 4 bulbs if I can't get this 4-way thing to work for whatever reason? I'm kinda of assuming that (for example) 1 big 100W bulb = 2 x 50W = 4x 25W. I've found a few two-socket fixtures but I'm not sure there's room enough for more than one in there. Currently, this is my set-up and I don't think this is going to last forever... it's a single 42W 2700k. My seedling seems happy for now but I really should be aiming for at least twice the wattage, right?

And thanks for the welcome! This place is pretty cool so far :3

I don't know much about autoflowering strains, but generally for healthy vegetative growth (new branch nodes), you want CFLs more towards to 6500K end. These are generally marked as Daylight, though sometimes I see 5500K lights marked that way. You should get multiple low-wattage bulbs and arrange them evenly around and above the plant, rather than a single radial light source directly above. The single small radial light source causes the top growth to shade the bottom growth.

http://www.amazon.com/Photo-Basics-413-4-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0028K2TXQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300062886&sr=8-1

From the getgo you probably should have used one of those and 4 20ish watt 6500K bulbs above each plant. I don't know if you can still encourage more vegetation with an autoflowerer, but for flowering you also do need those lower color temperature lights. Either way though, you should try and even out your light sources.

I'm all about getting your money's worth. I have this bracket: http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-External-Bracket-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0033ZJE38/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1300319620&sr=1-3 And I've used the stroboframe of the same design and imo they're nearly identical.

My boss swears by a rotating frame like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Stratos-Proflip-Digital-Camera-Bracket/dp/B0035XRAQ6/ref=sr_1_26?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1300319752&sr=1-26

So far as light modifiers go I stick with an omni-bounce but for softer lighting, obviously a larger diffuser is nicer, I have friends who have gotten small soft-boxes made for hot-shoe flashes and they really liked them.

Thanks man. I need to do that still. I can say it was pretty basic. Though have not seen similar, usually people who use the VESA arms make it so they go up and down, not swing out and in like I found was really useful. The only outside involvement was the welding, not a welder myself, so had a guy at my local muffler shop weld the pipe pieces to the chairs arm mounting plates after I unbolted them from it. The pics do show that. Then it was just using the items listed below with a little customization, such as cutting the mounting plate on the long VESA arm to match the Warthog jstick circular base..etc. But here are the parts I used, along with a few pieces of pipe as seen in the pics and some paint and a couple USB hubs mounted underneath chair as well. The MFD mounting adapters I designed and 3D printed

Jstick arm used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OPC4BH2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is attached to the vertical pipe attached to the chair arm base plate.

Throttle arm used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZDB2HM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is attached to the horizontal pipe piece on the chair arm base plate.

MFD articulated arms:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCQDKCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are attached to the chair arm base plate via one of the original mounting holes for the chairs arms, which I do not use(never like arms on my chairs)

Not for the piano specifically, but for any top down knolled shots I use Manfrotto gear:

•244 Variable Friction Magic Arm with Camera Bracket

•TwistGrip Universal Smartphone Clamp

•496RC2 Compact Ball Head with Quick Release Plate

•055 Aluminum 3-Section Tripod with Horizontal Column

•035RL Super Clamp with 2908 Standard Stud

Amazon is linked, but I recommend looking around before buying, as pro photo gear is usually on sale somewhere.

The only thing not listed is the lighting, but that’s because location/content determines the setup.

We were told no tripods at the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Eifel Tower.

You might try bringing one of the Manfrotto Supper Clamps. It won't work everywhere, but I was wishing I brought mine to the top of the Eifel. Good luck!

Monopods would severely limit your mobility (or, moreso your range of motion) and for things like concerts, subject movement (which a monopod will not help with) will be a much bigger problem than unstable handholding technique. "Nighttime events" may be the same way. I never shoot slower than 1/60 for people, because then their hands (if they're in the shot) or their facial expressions get blurry, purely because they're moving. However, this would be a time where I would recommend getting a cheap(ish) monopod (somewhere between Wal-Mart and Manfrotto) and testing it out.

I asked about using a monopod as a pole to mount a remote camera onto, and someone said that monopods are not rated for their ability to hold weight sideways/not straight up and down. I would recommend getting a stiff length of tubing (PVC or metal) and a Manfrotto Super Clamp (Super Clamp clamps onto the pole of your choice, camera/ballhead screws onto Super Clamp). If you want to mount a ballhead on the Super Clamp (as opposed to screwing your camera in directly), you'll need this screw instead.

That will crush it. Ordinarily, I would tape it or not worry about crushing it. However, I just found this thing! I bet that would be perfect!

A super clamp would allow you to adjust the pressure on the board but then you'll need a way to attach it to a post (which is when you use a second super clamp!). There are less expensive versions of this sort of thing. Some even have articulated arms.

okay that looks like a 1/4 20 set up. and it appears to be adjustable for 90 degree movement correct?

Probably the most versatile set up would be to get a couple 1/4 20 to baby pin adapters.

this will allow you to use standard film gear equipment.

from your table to the light, I'd go with a baby plate this will allow you to mount on screw into any surface table wall or ceiling.

then from there you'd want to get a grip head long arm

and a grip head

This would provide you with the most flexibility. allowing you to move the grip head up and down on the long arm adjusting the height of your light. like this.

there is a cheaper option if your interested and thats just just get a 2x2 drill a hole for a 1/4 20 grub nut and a 1/4 20 bolt then make a small base out of plywood. for mounting to a table.

Some time ago, I created this guide for the Vive. However, it also works for the Rift as they use the same size threads (1/4"-20.) and I use them for both my Rift and Vive. I used similar clamps but the hole is in a different place so the mount is slightly different. OP, since you're into photography you might also consider the mini ball heads I mention in the guide, as they would allow you to rotate the sensor any direction you want.

Another option I use is Manfrotto Superclamps which offer more support for mounting to things than shop clamps do. They're more expensive ($20-$30 each, depending on where you get them) but they also allow you to mount to pipes, poles, and other round objects that a shop clamp would not.

If I were you, for 360 video I would scrap the "birds eye view" perspective and just slap the GoPro onto a superclamp with a stud right on the bow railing.

Reasons are 1. It's a heck of a lot safer and 2. the 360 view is so wide that if you elevate up 20ft your boat and any waves will look very tiny from up there; you'll mostly just have tons of sky and open air in your shot. I'd say go lower and it should look awesome plus be way easier to mount and power.

That's great. I got pretty far with a simple backdrop stand. It was two lighting stands with a cross bar. Add some sandbags at the base for stability and tip protection. I used this to clamp the camera to the cross bar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6GRI7M/.

Good, even lighting is going to be the biggest concern, followed by the camera mount. I think given good lighting, almost any camera would do the job, provided it can make a video as long as you require (some cameras have a short time limit on how long of a video it can create).

Maybe something like a background stand, and mount the strobes on either end and the camera in the middle of it, with the table under it.

https://www.efavormart.com/products/8ft-height-adjustable-crossbar-kit-backdrop-support-system-stand-with-free-clips

Use some kind of clamp to mount the lights and camera:

https://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-035RL-Super-Clamp-Standard/dp/B0018LQVIA/ref=asc_df_B0018LQVIA/

https://www.amazon.com/Smallrig-Thread-Cameras-Umbrellas-Shelves/dp/B0062U2M4E/ref=asc_df_B0062U2M4E/

Note that I'm not recommending any of these specific products, just citing them as examples to get you started researching. Browse around the Smallrig site and see what they have:

https://www.smallrig.com/

Just make one yourself! I have my students Get a cheap wooden palette, paint in in neutral grey acrylic paint and then cover it in a few coats of Liquin.
Orr if you like painting on glass, just put a grey piece of paper beneath it.


If your willing to spend some cash, the grey toned posh palette by new wave is a dream. Nothing feels better than it's surface. http://www.dickblick.com/products/new-wave-posh-tabletop-palettes/

Or if you feeling really fancy, go with the parallel palette with a magic arm by manfrotto. I use the both the new wave and P.P. Lately I've been preferring the P.P. as its cover lets me freeze my paint at night and I figured out I can put a value scale under the glass for extra training wheels. http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-244-Variable-Friction-Bracket/dp/B000J4FONU https://parallelpallete.myshopify.com

For this video we are using a single articulated arm attatched to a table using this clamp. it works, but you can see the shaking of the table pretty easily.

Drop ceilings can be ok depending on the screen/weight.

The place I work uses these (but with a hook):
http://www.amazon.com/Avenger-C1000-Drop-Ceiling-Scissor-Clamp/dp/B0000BZL05

Then you use metal wire and tie off to an anchor point for safety.

Or the made by Da-lite ones. Then the hole on top is again for safety wire.

I got the "Phot-R Professional Photography 2x 3m Adjustable 3-Section Photo Studio Heavy Duty Aluminium Light Stand" (1) and the "Phot-R Type G Professional Universal Swivel Light Stand Bracket and Umbrella Holder for Canon and Nikon" (2) to mount the Lighthouse bases. I just pasted the entire names here (with links below) because at some time before they were not available and then I couldn't see the entire name which made it harder for people to search for it.

The type of "head" for the stand is not important. I got a light stand bracket / umbrella holder because they can be angled in different degrees. So I have mine at about 40 degree angle down. You can put the Lighthouses right on the light stands but then you won't be able to angle them down. And for me those brackets were the cheapest I could find. If you get something different just make sure they have a mount for a normal camera sized screw and not a flash shoe mount that you clamp in place (look at the different options of that product to see what I mean).

As I wrote they are a bit wobbly but I haven't had any problems with the Vive with them. And the wobbliness is at mostly because I live in an old house with wooden floors.

(These links are for Amazon UK, if you don't live in EU try searching for them on your local Amazon or somewhere else.)
[1] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MXX3TZA/ref=pe_385721_130454771_TE_3p_dp_1
[2] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UTEXV3U/ref=pe_385721_130454771_TE_3p_dp_2

I bought these: tripod with these To go on top. They work like a dream!

Yay!

Some lighting equipment for my freelance business :)

I use my GH5/Inferno with this gimbal all the time. The handle has two quarter inch mounts on the sides, so one can easily mount the inferno on the handle using a magic arm, something similiar to this. It's quite a nice setup.

PM me if you have any questions.

I just picked up a Manfrotto Super Clamp, and Heavy Duty Flex Arm. Haven't played with it much yet, but got some cool angles with it at the end of this video.

Depends on the budget, but these would work for someone starting to work with off camera flash:

Tripod

Swivel

umbrella


These are very basic stuff if your budget is higher there's better options.

I've been using this clamp - http://amzn.to/1S7oTqS - in addition to this arm - http://amzn.to/1S7oWD2 - to do a lot of my videos. It's very flexible and strong.

I also once built a rig using PVC that I attached to the ceiling that I could swing out of the way when I wasn't using it. It wasn't as solid as the clamp and arm, though.

BATTERY
Juicebox Battery for Blackmagic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BMTFFJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


CABLE
Juicebox Blackmagic Pocket Cinema... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFN75KM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


CLAMP
CAMVATE Super Clamp with 1/4"-20... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWTL7LC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You’ll need a pretty solid clamp and this one works well, but the part you use to tighten it slides back and forth, but it hasn’t affected my gimbal use.

The broadcast camera guys at baseball games have a large friction arm like this with mafer clamps on each end- one end on the pan handle, one end holding the umbrella handle. May be a bit expensive but durable and easy to position.

I have the predecessor to the 055XPROB legs, the Manfrotto 3021BPRO. They also have a horizontal mode, and I agree that they can work as long as the subject is well within the bounds of the tripod legs (if directly above), or if the camera setup is light enough to allow an overhang of the horizontal crossbar (or if your table is large enough to allow full extension of the legs).

Another option could be a combination of Manfrotto Magic Arm components, such as this basic arm and then a superclamp. Those components are the least expensive, but there are also heavy-duty arms suited for SLRs.

If you need shots from directly overhead, a copy stand could work.

Manfrotto clamp $30.

Plus a Ball head phone clamp $40

$70+ phone clamp on a starter set of clubs. Reddit approves!

Add an Anker power pack and you don't need to tap into the cart power.

Id recommend buying a super clamp instead, it has a 1/4 inch on the bottom so would go right on. Alternately a small bit of cheese plate would work to couple 1/4 to 1/4.

Check this out https://youtu.be/htRqm0JjGQE

As a backup, I've got a manfrotto articulating arm

(This one: Manfrotto 396B- 3 3 Section Double Articulated Arm with Camera Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MWWXJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DvR4yb9SAE41G )

Also have a manfrotto superclamp + 056 3D junior head that I can clamp to a light stand.

I have a really nice manfrotto Tripod + fluid head but I don't want to set that up every time I need to run the camera as my Webcam.

I can't remember if the DR40 has a 1/4” tripod mount on the back. If it does you could use a super clamp, possibly with a small ball head. Here's a cheap one:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XWTL7LC

You can use a pouch/bag to hang it from your shoulder, it will leave the display visible but there design of the recorder might make it hard to just glance down at your levels. Here's an inexpensive, decent, pouch to illustrate:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DL5MY2R

A rain sleeve and an umbrella do it for me. I've also superclamped a camera to the umbrella to aid with holding it (too few hands).

This + this + this.

Pair it with a super clamp and you're set to go.

Shower rods can be used, or...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRDD6Y/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067S12/

Clamp:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRI7M/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G4L2976/

Just the 48 inches length of the standard selfie stick.



Just a $15 stick that you can get for the camera, and just this simple clamp mount for cameras. The selfie stick has a threaded hole in the bottom of it, so it just threads on.

Or you could attach the Zoom to this and put it wherever you wanted on the pole.

I'm using a ManFrotto desk clamp mount. It gives you a lot of wiggle room.

It's actually an overhead setup. I got my Sony a6300 held by this arm and is held by the edge of my table wit this

A super clamp with a stud (the gold pin shown in the pic) attached to a horizontal bar above the table will do the trick.