(Part 2) Best products from r/RetroPie

Just wanted to give my thoughts on the case:

I like it better than the previous case I had (Smraza), but mainly for its aesthetics. The fan is a little louder than the Smraza, which was completely silent and had more ventilation slots, but both function the same as far as cooling. I can audibly hear the fan moving but it's not distracting once game audio kicks in, apparently it was even louder before it was recalled in February. Also, be careful of which heat sinks you use with this case. The fan gets pretty low to the board and my LoveRPi heat sinks did not fit. I had to instead go with the Mudder's, which again seem to function just as well. I have not overclocked with them yet but playing Gran Turismo 2 on PSX stays below 50 degrees C. Most importantly for me, the case is sexy, I love the wood and etched looked. I definitely recommend cleaning the plastic with some alcohol beforehand because it will arrive a little cloudy but clears up quite nicely. All in all it's a good looking case and will keep it cool, the Smraza may have a little more ventilation for better cooling, but this case is sturdier, feels like it can survive a drop, and looks much better.

I haven't used any handheld pi. I guess there are some good alternatives though.

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NDS with charger. $25 - $40 (I would get the DSi) (DSlite bumpers and things tend to wearout)

A flash cart for NDS. $15 - $20 (DSTT I hear is best) (Acekard2i is great) (R4 is hard to tell the model) (DSTWO flashcart drains battery life, is overpriced, but has built in cpu and emulators for gba snes and genesis) All are compatible with 3ds, NDS, DSi.

MicroSD. $10. Samsung EVO 32gb on amazon is a good deal

The DS has a lot of great games, snes and genesis emulators work okay but not the best. GBA emulation only works with dstwo or ez-flash.

Total $50 - $70.

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PSVITA w/ charger $110 - $150. Never used one, cfw is available for firmware up to 3.68. The firmware 3.69 is not hackable.

Vita Memory Card + microsd $20. Since the proprietary memory card are so expensive.

PSVITA & TV are cfw compatible up to 3.67 - 3.68, however there may be some homebrew incompatibility on these firmwares. 3.69 is not compatible yet. CFW can load PSP homebrew as well as play PS1.

Total $130 - $170

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Wii U complete console $140. Used - Very good

SD card. $15 Sandisk 64gb Extreme SDXC

DS Virtual Console Game $10 From E-shop, needed to play DS on Console/Gamepad screens.

Emulates Nintendo up to DS, has an abandoned PSX emulator from the wii. Portable and Console for TV.

Total $165

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The consoles and handhelds fluctuate in price. PSvita TV was low as $40 at one time, they are a bit inflated right now but collectors items will hold value. Finding one second hand or used for half-price is probable a used PSP is easy to find for $40 but not online.

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RPI $25 - $40 RPI3b+ is what I have connected to my TV. The RPI2 is similar to RPI0 and emulates PSX but not all, as per the RPI3B+. There are many SBCs, I think the OdroidC2 and Tinkerboard and NanoPI M4 are all interesting but I have not used them.

Case + Heatsink and fan $25 - $30 There are other cases Argon One, SuperPI Retroflag, many others, some bundles heatsink and fan are necessary for the rpi3b+. The retroflag controllers are not preferred.

Power Supply $15 or official raspberry pi power supply.

MicroSD $10

Controllers $15 - $35 There are a lot of options here, recycle your PS3 or XBOX360 controller, Buy a corded Ibuffalo Snes, 8bitdo SF30, logitech, retro-bit/retrolink n64. I think only the RPI3B+ and RPI Zero W have bluetooth, else an adapter is needed.

Total $75 - $130

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$50 (zero W + microsd + psu) + all the parts for building a gameboy zero

battery ~15

powerblock ~20

usb teensy ~15

controllermodule ~10

lcd and shield ~30

case ~20?

main buttons ~10?

audio amp and speaker ~10?

extra buttons and switches, wheels ~15?

Total ~$195

The CanaKit ones are usually good as a starting point (unless you don't want to buy the components individually, though as another person said, the power supplies that ship with them aren't the greatest.

If you DO want to buy the components individually, however, you only need to get the board itself, an optional case, and the power supply. Here's what I've seen most people use.

• Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (around $35 USD. It's the most powerful iteration of the Raspberry Pi. It might fit your needs, as it can play PS1 games pretty well.
  
• Official Raspberry Pi Power Supply (5V/2.5A)
  
  You could also invest in heatsinks or fans if you want to keep the Pi a bit cooler in temperature. Or, you could also buy a Flirc case, which is around $15 USD, which acts as a giant heatsink. It's one of the more popular cases around here, and for good reason. It's very reasonably priced in my opinion, and it does a good job at keeping the Pi nice and cool, so you don't need a fan.
  
  Speaking of cases, if you want that retro console look, there are some pretty good options, with one of the most well known case makers being Retroflag. They don't come with any form of cooling like heatsinks and fans, so you'll have to provide those separately.
  
  If you are asking about controllers, you can use both wired USB or wireless Bluetooth controllers as well (though you'll need to have at least a USB controller or a keyboard connected to the Pi for the first part of setting it up which will ask you to configure your controls which work across the RetroPie environment (that includes EmulationStation which is used to launch your games, and RetroArch which powers most of the emulators included with the default RetroPie install).
  
  You can read the RetroPie documentation for more information on RetroPie itself too.

It's a matter of personal preference, but I'm a fightstick guy, so when I installed some of the buttons you used for a friend, they were way hard to press and somewhat rough feeling to me. I know the 90s arcade "feel" is "clicky" euro-style buttons, but when you get the urge to play around with the config, try some of these: https://paradisearcadeshop.com/en/home/controls/buttons/buttons-seimitsu/578-seimitsu-psl-30n

They aren't clicky, but the resistance is probably less than half (though not so little you'll accidentally press them like happens with Sanwas sometimes) and they are just buttery smooth. Arcade games are a very tactile thing to me and having some of these underhand is just so much more enjoyable. A cheaper and easier upgrade would be to swap in some good switches, like these: https://www.focusattack.com/cherry-d44x-75g-187-microswitch/

A third option is, if you want the true 90s feel, get real Happ or IL buttons. So far, I don't think Happ or IL are producing an LED version of the original, concave plunger classic buttons, but IL produces transparent ones. Put in these with a some cheap LED strips from amazon and you get the true classic feel with lights. Here they are:https://www.focusattack.com/il-psl-l-translucent-concave-long-stem-pushbutton-red/

Again, this is all personal preference, but of all the options available in controls these days, the ones you have may be the least enjoyable to play with. I understand why you got them though. If you aren't a fightstick person and absolutely obsessed controls snob, the bundles available on Amazon these days make a lot of sense. By the way, the JLF clones that came bundled with the buttons is alright. If I were you I wouldn't bother replacing it, but if you're playing much other than fighting games on it, you need octo-gates on them. Playing shooters with a square gate is frustrating. Playing Pac-Man on that is damn-near impossible. Here's the gates: https://www.amazon.com/Sanwa-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B004AU0H4U

Again, really cool build.

It's better to buy the parts separately. You'll need the following:

The Pi, obviously:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CMC50S0?pldnSite=1

A MicroSDXC Card if you don't already have one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DOB6YQA?pldnSite=1

A power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZX466R/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w

A USB Keyboard if you don't have one lying around:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WWDMZQL?pldnSite=1

Controllers - there's tons to choose from. Depending on which games you plan on playing. If you want to do 8-bit and 16-bit games, an SNES style controller is probably best, that would work for obviously SNES, but Genesis or NES games as well. If you don't mind wires, go with the Buffalo SNES USB Controller. If you want to go wireless, go with 8Bitdo. The 8Bitdo also gives you few more options in terms of colors, so you get get one that looks like an American SNES controller with the purple buttons, an international SNES controller with rainbow buttons, an NES style controller with an SNES button layout, etc. Just don't cheap out, you'll see some SNES USB controllers on Amazon for dirt cheap, but they're terrible. Either get the Buffalos or the 8BitDos, or if you have an original SNES controller, you can get an USB adapter for it.

For Playstation or N64 games and anything newer, you would need a controller with more buttons and analog sticks. Again, you have tons of options, you can get Dualshock, X-Box 360, or Wii U Pro controllers, plus Logitech has some controllers that also have the right amount of buttons. These controllers can also be used for older games if you only want one set of controllers.

As for the case, you have tons of options, just search Amazon and see what case fits your style. Just be sure it fits the Pi 3.

Oh, and finally, you'll also need an HDMI cable if you don't have one.

Once you get all that, setting it up is rather easy. It seems intimidating, but I'm a total newbie when it comes to tech stuff, and I was able to get mine up and running without any major hiccups. If I could do it, I'm sure you could. It is pretty easy if you just follow instructions. And if you get lost and need help, you can always post on Reddit and someone will be willing to help out.

I looked up Pitendo and my god is that a ripoff, there's maybe 60 bucks worth of things there. Here, look:
This

https://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Basic-Starter-Kit--Clear/dp/B01D92SSX6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219491&sr=8-2&keywords=raspberry+pi+3

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-032G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57T02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219519&sr=8-1&keywords=32+gb+microsd

And whichever one of these you want https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=usb+controller

Is all you need, and you can honestly go for a Pi 2 Model B if you want to, and a smaller sd card maybe. Everything but the most demanding Dreamcast and N64 games work great on a 2, and N64 hardly works regardless of the model.


Honestly it's not a difficult set up, at least in my opinion. There's some troubleshooting you can do if you try and work out some more advanced things, but the basic set up is a breeze.

All you do is download the RetroPie image from the site, download Win32DiskImager, and write it to the card. It takes about 30 seconds to set up and maybe 3 clicks total.

After that, you put the microsd card into the pi, plug in your controllers, boot it up, follow the on screen controller config, and you're good to go.

Adding roms is as easy as putting in \\Retropie into any explorer window on you computer, if the pi is on your network, and dropping them into the console's folder. Everything else should be auto-configured and require little to no work on your end.

As far as SNES-style controllers go, I'd say 8bitdo is your best best. The SN30 is a great all-rounder for RetroPie. It works both wired and wirelessly (via Bluetooth). They're a bit on the pricier side, but they're worth every penny IMO.

They won't work wirelessly with RetroPie out of the box, though, there is a bit of setup involved. Fortunately, there's a guide for that here.

You can also use NES/SNES Classic controllers with a Raphnet USB adapter for an excellent wired setup.

On the cheaper end of the spectrum, you'll find plenty of wired SNES-style controllers, but quality can vary wildly. Just make sure to check the reviews. A pair of iNNEXT pads for $8.99 USD seems like an alright deal, although I've never used them personally.

It really depends on the level of complexity you want to get into.

Want something that will take you 4 minutes to put together? Here's what you need:

• Official Raspberry Pi screen
  
• Raspberry Pi screen and board case - There's 2 major options here. Option 1 or Option 2
  
• A portable battery pack - This one is just an example, there's so many to choose from with size and weight being the biggest factors.
  
  Again, this is hassle-free and the quickest route to go. What you'll still need:
  
  
• Bluetooth controller
  
• Headphones
  
  I can go into more detail if you're interested in something like this.
  
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  EDIT: Sounds like there's some interest, so here's my additional notes.
  
  First off, let me say that I do not take any credit for this idea. I was pushed-over-the-top by this Reddit post. With that said, I can add my personal experience onto things.
  
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  About the case - Like I mentioned earlier, there's 2 major options for the case, both with pros and cons. In no particular order ...
  
  Option 1: LoveRPi Premium Black Case for Official Raspberry Pi 7" Touch Screen Display and Camera
  
  
• Pro - The case is very compact. There's room to affix a small battery onto the backside of it.
  
• Pro - The case comes with shortened cables (when compared to what's bundled with the Official Screen). This keeps the wire clutter down to a minimum.
  
• Neutral - Upon installation, the screen needs to be flipped (sudo nano /boot/config.txt ... add "display_rotate=2" to it). This isn't a deal breaker, but it was necessary for the case's functional design.
  
• Neutral - There's no easy way to have the HDMI port become the active visual output upon cable connection. There's no simple toggle for this.
  
• Con - The viewing angle is very difficult at times. With most portable consoles, you adjust the screen to meet your head's angle. Although possible, it's not easy.
  
  Option 2: Case for the Official Raspberry Pi 7" Touchscreen Display - Adjustable angle
  
  
• Pro - The case allows for 3 major viewing angles. Although it's not 100 adjustable, it's better than nothing.
  
• Neutral - There's no easy way to have the HDMI port become the active visual output upon cable connection. There's no simple toggle for this.
  
• Con - For 100% portable gaming users, the solution isn't fully enclosed. You can poke the ribbon cable. You can touch a GPIO pin.
  
• Con - Size. It's bit bigger than the other case and there's no room to flush mount a battery pack.
  
  ----------------------------------------
  
  About the audio output - The 3.5mm headphone jack becomes your primary audio output. There's a way to control the volume output on the RetroPie's menu screens. Unless you have in-line volume controls on your headphones, you may need something like this..
  
  ----------------------------------------
  
  Personally, I went with the LoveRPi Premium Black Case, Aukey battery, a shortened power cable, and the Koss VC20 Volume control.
  
  I don't have pictures with me, but the setup is pretty efficient. I didn't have to solder, cut any cables, or anything crazy. Connect the bits, tuck the cables, and go.
  

just to let you know, you can buy the $5 raspberry pi zero w and install retropie on it. the "top of the line" model 3b+ is $29 which is a great deal as well. to spend $90 for a kit is a complete rip off! most people have a 5v power supply laying around. ($5) if you don't have a microsd card get one for ($5). you don't need fans, cases, heatsinks, bells & whistles right out of the gate. i have owned every revision of the raspberry pi since 2012 and i never bought that stuff. later on down the road if you love the completed project, then you can customize your setup with an interesting case, but not that junk. by then you will be able to research and pick the best stuff for yourself. here are some $12 controllers that work fine. you can also control with a keyboard ($5).

https://www.amazon.com/iNNEXT-Controller-Joystick-Gamestick-Raspberry/dp/B01N7ANDLC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535903748&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+snes

I am, yea. I picked up a JBTek Transparent "case" which is really just two transparent acrylic plates with four posts (i.e. no walls) and a fan. (The case didn't come with instructions but the Amazon listing comments had instructions with photos from other customers which was a huge help.) I also got some a uxcell 25mmx25mmx15mm heatsink which I stuck on with Artic Silver thermal paste. Note that I mounted the fan pointing inwards which is the inverse of their photo, because it's better for cooling. (Same reasons you point your CPU's fans to blow in and not out.)

JBTek case: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M859PA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
uxcell sinks: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N631K9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
artic silver: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087X728K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I no longer see the temp warnings. :) Didn't involve any soldering either, which made me happy.

(Sorry for the massive delay; real-life's giving me a beating.)

http://www.amazon.com/Tablet-Ac-Adapter-Google-Nexus-Samsung-Galaxy-Asus-Transformer-Charger-Power-Cord/dp/B00IJKG9R6

This one is a beast. 3.5amp and it works great. Also used an Anker Powerport 2/4 and they both are great and similar dimensions to Apple ones and beasty too. Just make sure you have a good USB cable.

The switch is front facing. It's set to 2-5 players.

Here's another thing that's plaguing me. I can't save the multitap settings in the software. Every time I load up a game I need to push select + x, go into the input settings and manually set player 2 to multitap, and add players 3 and 4.

One game is unplayable as a result, it appears it keeps whatever the settings are at boot, so player 1 controls player 1 and player 2 controls players 2 3 and 4.

When I click save core settings, or save any settings for that matter nothing happens. There's no confirmation, there's no visual cue that it's been saved, and there's no physical evidence because nothing ever does get saved.

Here's the product listing: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002IXZ5DE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ALIgDbQKDCYX2

It appears in the question section of the listing someone states that the multitap doesn't work.

Perhaps you could help me with configuration saving though? :)

keyboard numlock doesn't light up when plugged into pi and i press it. it also doesn't light up when plugged into my laptop to test, but the caps lock does/the keyboard works. just like with controllers that power up elsewhere, even the caps lock key lights up elsewhere but not with the pi, too.

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pi case with fan. this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HF2BKLQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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red lights are on, no green flashing lights at welcome screen. green light briefly on when turning on pi, remains off during boot through to welcome screen.

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reflashed, same results.

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had the pi for a bit without using, but always made sure it was safe/not mishandled. possible something happened over time (or initially and i just never knew) that is causing it to be defective and i need to replace it?

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I have USB controller adapters for NES, SNES, and Genesis (which does Atari style controllers too) and they all work wonderfully.

This is the SNES one I bought
https://www.amazon.com/SNES-Controller-Adapter-USB-Super-NES/dp/B002IXZ5DE

I wouldn't doubt the one you posted works, but obviously I can guarantee anything.

I use this one for Genesis but it's honestly a bit pricy for what it does. You might be able to find something much cheaper that works, but I wanted the extra functionality.
http://www.2600-daptor.com/Vision-daptor.htm

This is the NES one. Works with the advantage too!
https://www.amazon.com/Tomee-NES-Retro-Controller-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00HM3QCN2

Personally, I'd recommend these over the ibuffalo controllers. I haven't had good luck with those. The only issue might be tracking down the controllers but if you're willing to do that I'd go for the adapters. Nothing feels like or beats the actual hardware, IMO.

https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Aluminum-Raspberry-Case-Enclosure/dp/B01H8L4EM8 This guy is good, but it blocks bluetooth so you may want a dongle. I hear good things about the FLIRC, too. if you want a fan check this on, though I hear it is loud: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Transparent-Acrylic-Raspberry-External/dp/B00M859PA6/

Make sure to pack in some thermal grease if you get a case that comes into contact with the board.

This is from a post I made on another thread like this:

Here is a list of the parts I used, from Amazon, to make an NES Mini.

Raspberry Pi

Case

Power Supply

Controller

Micro SD

You would also need an HDMI cable if you don't have one already. Some people use wireless Bluetooth controllers, (the PI has Bluetooth and WiFi built in), but I don't know how well they work, latency wise.

Edit: For SNES and N64 you would need a more robust controller. You can use just about any USB controller that works with a PC, and a corded Xbox 360 controller works fine. I have heard others have used he WiiU Pro Controller, but I haven't tested that myself.

I just got a 3B+ lastnight, and had the entire thing setup with these wired snes cons in less than 4 hours.

10/10, 12/10 with rice, am doing again for a couple of my buddies.

QOL tips you wont find online, these are still fresh in my mind.

These will make sense as your working on the pi, they might not make sense now.

If your monitor has 2 inputs and you can side by side or PIP your PC and your Rpie ROM xfer is easier. You don't wanna walk out to your tv and back to your PC every time you change something.

The guides don't tell you but after you have your image on your sd card you need to slide it out of the usb transfer adapter and into the bottom of you pi, otherwise wont boot.

You will want at least 1 additional USB thumb drive or SD card (besides the one in the pi at this point) for ROM xfer.

You will want a dedicated usb (or wireless usb) keyboard for the pi during setup, don't mess with swapping you PC keyboard in and out, its slow and and pain in the arse.

Start amassing your ROMs as soon as you order your kit and make sure they are unzipped and sorted ahead of time.

If you have a good 1GB wired home network and over 100Mb coming into your house, scraping the meta data and art work for about 900 games across 4 systems took me another 2 hours with cleanup on the ones that were mis mismatched or skipped.

After you install Themes on the Pi you have to enable them back inside of retropi in the UI options.

Go ahead and download and install win32diskimager or etcher on your windows PC when you order the kit, you will need them.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a pi3 but it worked out of the box like a charm, just plug and play (my onboard bluetooth is busted).

Excellent answer, thanks.

I have the following coming this week:

Qanba joy stick

Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor

Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK OEM Red Ball Top Handle Arcade Joystick

Basic, middle of the road stuff. I was thinking of doing one of those Raspberry pi inside of a fight stick setups, but I kind of like the look of the Vilros mini NES.

Thanks again for the response.

You definitely need a Micro SD card to out the retropie image on.

As for power supplies: https://www.amazon.com/Tablet-Ac-Adapter-Google-Nexus-Transformer-BlackBerry-Phone-Power-Cord/dp/B00IJKG9R6

I wouldn't use anything else. I've gone through so many and have an official 2.5a charger and it's trash. Even not at max load before overclock I was getting lightning bolt warnings. The 3.5 amp charger is amazing.

I also suggest a mini keyboard with receiver. You do need a keyboard for setup and it being mini helped me a ton.

Optional : a power switch like Mausberry is nice.

Yep CanaKit is awesome, do yourself a favor and add this to the cart as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018BFWLRU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stops the wear and tear for the power jack.

Tracking my progress, settings, power and cooling setup here in the Raspi3 section. https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/Overclocking
But basically I am using Heatsinks that are glued on with thermal adhesive as well as a case with an active cooling fan, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M859PA6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I never used one before the past few weeks either, and I'm never looking back. The buttons feel great, the Pi responds immediately...my only complaint is that the 1 and 2 shoulder buttons on both sides are a little too close, but that's negligible, you get used to it quick.

Here are my RetroPie details:

• Raspberry Pi 3, Model B+
  
• Argon One Mini Computer case for Raspberry Pi Model B/B+
  
• SanDisk 256GB Ultra MicroSDXC UHS-I Memory Card
  (I know, I went a little overboard)
  
• 8BitDo SN30 Pro Bluetooth Controller
  
• 5V 2.5A Power Supply for Raspberry Pi 3 B B+
  (I've since upgraded to the official one)
  
  Here are all the components together. The thing I love about the case is that it comes with a separate component that puts all of the ports on one side.

I bought this one because it has 4.8/5 stars with 760 reviews, I have Amazon Prime, and multiple memory cards floating around. It'll be here tomorrow along with this controller. I'm super excited for this little project!!

I used this because I know it's the real deal and not 3rd party, but I'm sure 3rd party ones out there would work fine.

I recently picked up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7ANDLC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on a whim and they are the best USB SNES controllers I have every had in my hand.

I had this problem with Recalbox, so I tried installing Retropie. Well, still getting the same issue. Here's a video of it from Recalbox, but it's basically the same thing.

I tried forcing HDMI audio out, I tried switching the emulators to run Super Mario World (I'm using PiSNES), even tried redownloading the rom from somewhere else. Still having the issue.

It really makes it unplayable just because it's so irritating. By all accounts, the game is playable, I just don't want to play it.

Any ideas?

Also, I'm using Pi 3 B.

I'm currently making one to use with original SNES controllers. I've tried two different adapters and this one has worked the best for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IXZ5DE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i only trust the specs of the official power supply: https://www.amazon.com/Official-Raspberry-Foundation-Power-Supply/dp/B01LCNF8FU

mind you, now that i think about it, my pi froze once exiting kodi also. so maybe it's just kodi :)

This is what I have for my heatsinks now, it will fit your board as the chips are the same sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018BGRDVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CcDxCb2ZPQC30

The fan slot fits any 30x30x10mm fan powered by 5V. This one is cheap enough.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WWR5PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jfDxCbGWTW28Z

Something like this might work if you simply replace the included standoff posts with something longer picked up from the hardware store. This would allow extra vertical space for the powerblock. The case does fit the Raspberry Pi 3 even though it doesn't say so in the description.

didnt think it would get that much attention :)

• Case -- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585924
  
• Screen - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0153R2A9I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Battery pack(on the right) -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194WDVHI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I can take mor picturesif you would like
  
  

Had a another thought... How are you turning the pi back on? It sounds like you have power always on to the pi... So do you have to unplug/plug it back in? If so you should remove power from the Pi's micro USB port after your script has run... Or did you install a similar product to the one I posted? That product has a chip built into the board that shuts power off until you press the power switch...

Maybe you could get an in line power switch like this one:
LoveRPi MicroUSB Push On Off Power Switch Cable for Raspberry Pi (Female to Male) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018BFWLRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qNWvCb93S0Q8F

And once your shutdown script shuts the pi off, power it off with the in line switch... Then when you want it back on just push the button on the in line switch.

Here's what I've been using for a couple months with zero issues:

Plugable USB Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy Micro Adapter (Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, Raspberry Pi, Linux Compatible; Classic Bluetooth, and Stereo Headset Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

There are cheaper ones that I'm sure perform just as well. It's hard to complain about $3-5 in cost when it's the best seller, and arrives in 2 days.

Thanks! Maybe I will get a fan after all. I like how this kit comes with everything https://www.amazon.com/Smraza-Raspberry-Cooling-Heatsinks-include/dp/B01LWURJMI but there are some bad reviews about the fan dying. Let me know if you know of a better setup

I ordered some from amazon that had 3M thermal tape on them. Some people recommend using something with more tac(thermal glue) but the plain janes work for me. I ordered the stock raspberry pi case. Both of mine are black. Nice and small and I leave both side panels out so there is more air movement.

LoveRPi Performance Heatsinks for Raspberry Pi 3 Model B (1 Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018BGRDVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_eSdSCcfJlqdfu

Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - Black/Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F1PSFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ahcikJCLScSM6

This seems like a better deal since it includes the raspberry pi: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01D92SSX6/

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449239788&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+raspberry+pi


This seems to work great for me!

If you don't want a new PC you can try overclocking your pi. I'd recommend buying heatsinks here:https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-Performance-Heatsink-Raspberry-Heatsinks/dp/B018BGRDVS and there's a guide for it here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTp3mfpCc2A&t=24s. If you do this you should get better performance.

I have a 3D printed NES case (http://pi-tendo.com/) that I enjoy though I wish it had a fan. I got it months ago before the whole craze really started so your case from Amazon is similar though a lot cheaper. When doing a lot of rewinding / fast forwading in SNES9x I've seen the thermometer icon come up on screen from time to time. I have heatsinks but I 'm guessing they are a little smothered because of the ventilation (or lack thereof).

That being said, I've built a few devices for people and I went with this and they've been very pleased: https://www.amazon.com/Smraza-Starter-Raspberry-layers-Heatsinks/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493057841&sr=1-14&keywords=raspberry+pi+3

Has a fan and heatsinks and you build it in layers, little more work to be done putting it together but no harder than making a Lego set.

I use this Mayflash adapter I bought in 2015 on my Retropie, and it works great.

SNES Controller to Adapter for PC USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IXZ5DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qOswgC9vqSNfd

other than the issues described in this thread with controllers being assigned a player designation, this thing works great for me.

Something like https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

I had one already for using 360 controllers wirelessly with pc and steam link

One dongle can pair 4 controllers just like an xbox. I've not any issues using these with retropie

Here's the one I went with. Has heat sinks and a fan, and the fan is so quiet I can't really hear it unless I'm right up on it.

Speaking of these, have you guys noticed the price doubling on the "Microsoft" branded adapter on amazon? Used to be 15, jumped up to 27 about a week ago.

Does the zettaguard or generic adapter get recognized by the pi immediately like the official adapter or do you have to do updates to get it recognized?

Got my first RetroPie for xmas. Now making one for my dad. Bought this for him to safely turn on the pi instead plug on/off.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZX466R/

The items you linked are cheap, but won't really work for you, they could, but you will have to tinker and take a chance with those Items. The power bank you linked does not have enough amps output to run the Rasperry Pi correctly and the LCD might not work for the Retropie OS. I would go with something that can output enough amps for the Raspberry Pi to run without any issues, it needs 2.5Amps. If not, the Pi will be complaining about power or being throttled because it does not have enough power to run the Raspberry Pi without any issues, specially if you are running Retropie and doing emulation:

Anker PowerCore 20100 with has 20,000mah and outputs 2.4Amps per port
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4yDpzbGZ20DB6


Anker PowerCore II 20000 Portable Charger it has 20000mah and outputs 3Amps per port
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQ7MQG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_jrXiWbBU7nUPA

------------------------------------------

As for the screen, I would go with something more compatible. The screen you linked only works a a custom built Raspian OS. Not sure it would work on the Retropie OS/img. It does come with drivers which you might need to compile within your Retropie OS to get the screen to work. I would go with a screen that can run off of the display port or HDMI port of the Raspberry Pi natively. Check out the specs and the compatability of the screen to the OS you will be using it for. One good example of a really compatible A LCD is the official 7" LCD/touchscreen that plugs into the display port and works with most all OS' on the Pi. You only need to change one small setting in the boot/config file for it to boot with the LCD screen attached. I think there is an official 5" LCD available, but I could be wrong. Looks like you want to use a smaller screen, check the Retropie forums or check instructables.com to see what other people have used.

Raspberry Pi 7" Touchscreen Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153R2A9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJDpzbEP8KVK4

Plugging it in turns it on. That's about it. You can get a power switch if you'd like to make is easier though. I've got a similar one to this, https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-MicroUSB-Switch-Raspberry-Female/dp/B018BFWLRU. Works fine for me but might not provide enough power for some rigs.

Also, some folks just keep their pi on all the time which negates the need to power it up.

Another vote for the wireless Logitech F710 (and against bluetooth). Also, the Wireless Receiver for Windows might be an option, assuming you have a bunch of Xbox 360 controller laying around :)

nice switch. always new pi stuff to learn just started myself ended up getting this http://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-MicroUSB-Extension-Button-Raspberry/dp/B018BFWLRU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

STOP!... Here u go buddy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NDoBzbMJ3M4DX

Thank me later.

Depends on how hot your environment gets. Right now mine is overclocked and I haven't seen the little indicator for overheating yet during extended PSX gameplay. Right now my pi only has the cheap little heatsinks from the Vilros Kit.

However during the summer I'll have to upgrade to active cooling.

Personally I'm planning on getting this case JBtek - Amazon

Eh. I was trying anything I could.

The kit I got was 50$

Vilros Raspberry Pi 3 Basic Starter Kit - Clear Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D92SSX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5WTyybB2ZJ4WW

You need a dongle like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HZFCT2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481798049&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=xbox+360+controller+dongle&dpPl=1&dpID=41plpDkTneL&ref=plSrch

Mine has frozen twice for a glitchy N64 ROM (deleted it) and once when trying to exit Kodi.

My Pi is not overclocked and the power supply is the standard CanaKit one (since it seemed like a legitimate piece of hardware)

I ordered this power supply instead since it is purportedly of high build quality. Are its electricity specs appropriate?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IJKG9R6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary

I use one of those and it works just fine. Have not seen a low power symbol so far playing with my Pi3. It came with this kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWURJMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've added

https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-MicroUSB-Switch-Raspberry-Female/dp/B018BFWLRU

in line with the supply i already had. Works well and i haven't had any power issues with it either.

You can but kits that come with controllers and everything you need.

Or you get cool cases:

http://retroflag.com

Pair it with a couple of these:

http://www.8bitdo.com/n30-f30/

Or gut a dead system and buy this switch:

https://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/shutdown-circuit-use-your-own-switch

You can wire it up to any switch (including the NES power and reset and led) to shut it down via gpio.

I bought one of these so I could play with 2x original snes controllers:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002IXZ5DE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506732529&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mayflash+snes+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=51hPNAF1v9L&ref=plSrch

I use ps3 controllers when I play old school metal gear.

There is measurable lag on any bluetooth controller. I use wired controllers for this very reason. If you've ever tried to play rhythm based games it would be apparent immediately, and once you notice it it seems to get worse. I use these and they work great.

Other people might have better options, but I've seen these power supplies with switches while browsing.

I bought this one and it worked fine for me https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IXZ5DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pOtsybDBDGM93

Here is the same unit on amazon in case you have prefer it to ebay. https://www.amazon.com/Tablet-Ac-Adapter-Google-Nexus-Transformer-BlackBerry-Phone-Power-Cord/dp/B00IJKG9R6 admittedly it is .09 cents more.

Https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M859PA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The fan plugs right into the GPIO ports on one of the 5V pins. You can hear the fan in a dead silent room, but it's drowned out as soon as anything with sound starts playing. It's very quiet and I'm happy with it.

I have the Old Skool case, can't recommend it enough. My Pi 3 is overclocked, and I added these heatsinks and a small 30mm 5v fan (running on the 3.3v rail so it's quiet) to move some air. Haven't had any overheating issues thus far, but I can give you actual temperature numbers later while running N64 games.

The one i have is by Mayflash... SNES Controller to Adapter for PC USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IXZ5DE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_dV36wbEFZM4X1

EDIT: I just realized you said NES, not SNES. I actually don't have NES ports. What I did was make a NES to SNES adapter by buying two sets of extension cords and splicing the proper wires together. The end product is an extension cable with a NES receptacle and a SNES plug. Let me know if you want the wiring diagram. I have it somewhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Raspberry-Foundation-Power-Supply/dp/B01LCNF8FU/

​

The extra .1V matters. Maybe other 5.1V power supplies might work but I've only used the official one.

https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

Try a Mayflash SNES to USB adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/SNES-Controller-Adapter-USB-Super-NES/dp/B002IXZ5DE

Just to confirm you mean this one right?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002IXZ5DE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479781831&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=mayflash+snes

And have you used 2 controllers at the same time in it?

This one:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI

I have this one for my zero and worked out of the box

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll have to disable the built-in bluetooth adapter, here's a post that shows how to do that.

Then just plug it in and restart, it will then use the plugged in adapter by default when connecting in the bluetooth menu.

This is the one I used on mine, but I did use a different one on another pi I built and it worked the same.

I personally recommend using the [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJKG9R6/](PWR+ 3.5A Power Supply.)

I've had ridiculous setups with this (RPi3, hard disk, wired controllers and a screen) and this never dips in voltage.

There is always the Official Raspberry Pi 7" screen or just check on Adafruit.

I got this screen and this case for mine.
Using a $20 Anker power bank, I can get a few hours.

https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-7-Touchscreen-Display/dp/B0153R2A9I

https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-7-Inch-Touch-Screen/dp/B01GQFUWIC/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GQFUWIC&pd_rd_r=JZHK78KH1DEY6VHWMN0Z&pd_rd_w=J96ez&pd_rd_wg=BoXqv&psc=1&refRID=JZHK78KH1DEY6VHWMN0Z

Here you go.

Given what appears to be printed parts, I would bet it's the official screen: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-7-Touchscreen-Display/dp/B0153R2A9I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483373009&sr=8-2

I use one of these

https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-MicroUSB-Switch-Raspberry-Female/dp/B018BFWLRU

This is a heat sink. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018BGRDVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ehezDb1MW9NAW

Power supply, I bought this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D92SSX6/

https://www.amazon.com/Smraza-Starter-Raspberry-layers-Heatsinks/dp/B01LWURJMI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KKJYGAYH2SGC3EF437AR

I have a mac - I installed using ApplePi Baker. The power cord is Enokay Power Supply for Raspberry Pi 5V 2.5A Micro USB Charger Adapter with On Off Switch from amazon

This one

grab one of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZX466R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

shutdown through emulation station, on/off from this switch

i bought this 2 pack for 12 buckaroos (iNNEXT SNES) and so far so good

​

I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MZX466R/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526246137&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=raspberry+pi+3+power+adapter+with+button&psc=1 but I don’t do any kind of overclocking so I’m not sure if it will be enough for you.

These reviews say that that adapter worka fine with retropie, so either yours is defective or configured incorrectly

https://www.reddit.com/r/RetroPie/comments/3i4f9i/question_about_adapters_for_original_controllers/
https://www.amazon.com/SNES-Controller-Adapter-USB-Super-NES/product-reviews/B002IXZ5DE

When I built my RetroPie I bought everything individually. When I built one for my neighbor I went with this to cut costs for her.

The Screen: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0153R2A9I/

The Case: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQFUWIC/

The Battery: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H7A9WFY/

The Velcro Strips: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TGSPV6/

I already had the pi3 and SD Card (from Canakit). The controllers (already owned, no longer available) are these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DCXCJ8C

I'm thinking about using this case as it includes a fan and a power switch. I'm a little worried about the switch because I've read around that it pulls restricts power to the PI. Suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LWURJMI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500219008&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=raspberry+pi+3+case&psc=1

Just get this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D92SSX6/ Buy the HDMI cable and MicroSD card separate and forget about the USB stick. You can have a 64gb card rather than a 32gb one of questionable quality.

• 7" Touchscreen
  
• Touchscreen Case
  
• 15+ hour battery
  
  The screen draws its power from the Pi's 5v GPIO, so you should only have to plug the Pi into the battery. With this setup plus a USB/Bluetooth controller, you should have a fully-portable setup with no nasty wire mess!
  
  Hope that helps!

After struggling with the lightning bolt myself, I didn't take any chances and ordered this one. No problems now.