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> Here is a layout with the modem/router included: https://prnt.sc/nvevd4

It's a good thing you pointed out that your house has brick walls. Wi-Fi signals have a tough time getting through brick, so you should rule out mesh.

> Currently I am using an old router (Asus RT-N12+B1) and a powerline extender (TP-LINK Powerline TL-WPA2020) in the "Office" room - both marked on the layout. This way I am getting around ~55Mbps on wifi from router and ~30Mbps from the powerline extender.

For the benefit of other readers, both the Asus and the TP-Link only support 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. They also have 100 Mbps Ethernet ports. Yikes! This equipment is holding you back.

> Suffice to say both equipment has a cap of 300Mbps (wired I assume).

No, that's wireless. Due to the way Wi-Fi works, actual wireless speeds will be at least 50% slower. Worse, cut speeds in half again because 2.4 GHz is generally limited to using 20 MHz wide channels, whereas TP-Link's number assumes 40 MHz channels. IOW, you're looking at nominal Wi-Fi speeds of around 75 Mbps.

>I am looking to exchange these to use the bandwidth from our provider a bit more. I should note that I am not a networking enthusiast (yet).
>
> I don't want to spend a lot here (aiming at around $100) but for example I'd like to have the option to perhaps create a mesh network at some point.
>
> Here are the options I have considered. (feel free to suggest additional ones also):

> #1 TP-Link AC1900 ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ )

> Just a better router which I think has a bit better coverage also.

I don't have any personal experience with this model but it looks like an average, run of the mill, consumer grade router. That's not to say it's bad. For a long time, an AC1900 class router represented the sweet spot in terms of Wi-Fi bandwidth and cost. BTW, AC1900 stands for up to 600 Mbps at 2.4 GHz and up to 1300 Mbps at 5 GHz. Again, these are inflated by at least 100%.

Moreover, the Wi-Fi capabilities of devices must also be taken into account. The average smartphone with 802.11ac Wi-Fi, for example, will at best leverage only 2/3rds of what this router is capable of. You're still looking at 200-400 Mbps, which is quite an improvement.

It's always hard to say anything about range. The TP-Link may have better range, but the brick walls in your house are going to put a damper on that.

> I probably would still have to use the powerline extender in the Office. (would that have a better performance also with a better router?)

A router with Gigabit Ethernet ports will certainly open up access to the full bandwidth provided by your Internet connection. But it looks like your Powerline extender only has a 100 Mbps Ethernet port, so that's going to be a bottleneck. Honestly, I would not expect much, if any, improvement.

I would be careful about upgrading to a faster Powerline adapter with a Gigabit Ethernet port. You may not see very much improvement. Powerline is a notoriously finicky and, frequently, disappointing technology. Real world and published speeds are nowhere close to each other. That's not to say that it doesn't work for some people, but you can forget about seeing anywhere close to Gigabit speeds.

> #2 Netgear Orbi RBK30 ( https://www.cclonline.com/product/243512/RBK30-100UKS/Cable-Routers/Netgear-Orbi-RBK30-Wireless-AC2200-Tri-Band-Network-Router-with-Satellite/NET2800/ )
>
> With AC2200 it should of course give much better speeds than the current router (I hope), and there would be the option to exchange the powerline extender with an other Orbi unit to create a mesh network? Would that work?

While the Orbi is one of the better mesh products, you should not consider it with a brick-walled house.

> #3 Unifi AP AC LR
>
> I've seen this being suggested numerous times but I am a bit hesitant about it. Mainly because I don't quite understand how it would work and it seems to me that it would be more expensive that I'd want to pay.
>
> Since I am not well versed in networking I am unsure how access points actually work.

Think of an Access Point as a device that provides a Wi-Fi connection to a network. A Wi-Fi router has a built-in Access Point, along with an Ethernet switch, firewall and NAT. If you were to disable Wi-Fi on the router and connect an external Access Point, like the Unifi, into one of the router's Ethernet ports, you would functionally have the same thing.

The beauty of Wi-Fi is that you can distribute multiple Access Points throughout your residence to provide strong Wi-Fi coverage. You can even use the Access Point built into the router to complement the external Access Points. The catch is that external Access Points must be wired to the router. BTW, your TP-Link Powerline extender is technically an Access Point. It just happens to be wired to the router using A/C wires.

> 1. I would need a router obviously and I had the idea that this AP can work as one. Is that so? Or would I actually need to purchase a router and this would only serve as an access point somewhere else?

As I explained above, the Unifi would only serve as an Access Point. You would still need a router. You might consider a Ubiquiti USG. It's limited to a total throughput of 1000 Mbps (up and down combined), so it falls a bit short of what your Internet connection is capable of. In practical terms, you are unlikely to ever notice unless you intend to frequently hammer your Internet connection. Unfortunately, a USG + Unfi AP would significantly exceed your budget of $100.

> 2. Now my question here: if I wanted to have a second AP would I need to get the ethernet wiring over there also (meaning it wouldn't work wirelessly as mesh networks do)? Powerline would work for me as well I just don't want to install another 50meter cable into the walls (although I might consider it through the attic if it's that good of an idea).

An Access Point does need to be wired to the router. Ethernet is the fastest and most reliable medium. If you have coax in your house, I would seriously consider MoCA. Think of MoCA as Ethernet over coax. It's much more reliable than Powerline. You need a MoCA adapter at each end of the coax segment. The fastest adapters (Bonded MoCA 2.0/2.5) are pricy but they can achieve near Gigabit speeds. Powerline should only be used as a last resort.

> 3. well this is worrying as I wouldn't want to keep a separate machine running just to keep the internet up

It's true that Unifi Access Points are managed by controller software running on a separate machine. But it's only necessary if you want to have a guest network with a login portal or if you want to monitor Wi-Fi traffic statistics. A guest network without a login portal does not require the controller to run continuously. There is also a smartphone app that can be used in lieu of the controller. It provides only very basic setup functions, which might suffice for you. Note: The controller can run on something as a small as a Raspberry Pi. Ubiquiti also sells something called a Cloud Key, which is basically a small computer dedicated to running the controller software.

If this all sounds like too much trouble, then you may want to consider TP-Link EAP Access Points. They have a built-in web portal for management.

> 4. on paper the Orbi gives a 2200Mbps performance compared to the Unifi one which if I calculate correctly is 1300+Mbps. So why opt for this?

2200 Mbps includes a 866 Mbps connection that's dedicated to the mesh function used by the nodes for communicating with each other. The bandwidth available to devices is 1300 Mbps, so it's basically the same.

Ok, so as I have mentioned, your not going to get an accurate result in testing your online speeds from a device connecting by Wifi. Also with that, you are always going to see fluctuating speeds when connecting with Wifi due to interference, etc.

So, I know this suggestion probably won't be of much help, but I would honestly recommend that you run an Ethernet line from your Sky modem/hub to where your xBox is setup. Then get yourself a cheapo/generic Dual band Wifi router and configure it for 'Access Point' mode.

This way your room will have a strong Wifi signal as well as having a direct Ethernet connection that you can connect your game console to.

I know your in GB, but I will link a couple of Wifi routers that you could look at if you are able to do the extended Wifi Access Point option.

- https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC900-Gigabit-Router-Reliable/dp/B07L6T45JW/ref=sr_1_34?keywords=TP+Link+Archer&qid=1569022432&sr=8-34

or

- https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=Wifi+router&qid=1569022144&sr=8-7

The only other thing that might be of some help, is to contact your provider and report that the speeds your getting are not upto what you are paying for and request that they dispatch a tech to check things out.

Best of luck.

Easiest solution.

Powerline adapter with a Wifi AP point it. I would suggest picking a few different APs and spreading them out throughout your house. It depends a bit on how the house is laid out as much as the sq-footage as to where they are best placed.

In my experience these are a lot more successful than setting up AP repeaters etc. Plus really useful for connecting via ethernet if you have TVs/consoles etc in different rooms. It is always going to be more reliable than Wifi

Wow, i feel like we are issue twins :D * excuse the humor *

I had exactly similer issue 6 monthes ago wifi was highly capped on my laptob at around 4 - 7 mb/s while my other devices are 40 - 50 mb/s

anyhow for me at least it was internal card issue maybe weaken over time or something,

another reason for you maybe that your intenal card is forced to use 802.1g/b please check next time you in hotel which gives you terrible bandwidth options ( go to task mamanger - > Performance tab - > wifi -> look for connection type ) .

MY SOLUTION :

i bought 2 cheap USB adapters : TP link's Wn722n and Wn823n each 24 $ or something

and Ta da, my speed was up to roof back to normal range of other devices (using the antenna based wn722n right now), i dont really suggest it unless u dont mind the size but overall i had better range with it than with wn823n, please hence both are single band 2.4 .
Links :

wn823n : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2/

wn722n : https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG

if money aint a big issue i still suggest the Alfa dual long range because its state of art and long term usage friendly and when you get bored of it easy sell used .

There’s no magic with WiFi. It’s all radiative pattern, the gain on antennas. The Linksys didn’t put out a different kind of signal and your camera had to be able to respond.

If you have a brick wall that’s causing issues I normally don’t try to force a signal through it. I put an AP on the other side of it.


TP-Link AC1200 Wireless MU-MIMO Gigabit Indoor/Outdoor Access Point (EAP225-Outdoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07953S2FD/

you can easily drill through the brick to pass an Ethernet cable through.

The solution to basically all WiFi problems is to put a wired AP there.

For the rest of your requirements: mesh is a poor solution if you’re looking for something long term. Mesh is made to be an easy fix, it’s bandaid solution for people who don’t want to make the investment. If you want something long term, start running Ethernet around your house. Put an AP in every room. Put an AP near where people conjugate (I put one next to every TV and hardwire each Tv; make sure toilets get coverage). With all the smart home devices you’re talking about you need more AP that are all using different channels. WiFi 6 is a lot about managing too many devices sharing the same channel. But if you are using enough channels then there shouldn’t be any congestion.

You could get a wireless ethernet adapter with integrated anteanna to guarantee the best signal. It has to be configured, much like a router does, to connect to the host's wireless.

ubnt.com or tp-link

Maybe something like this

The main thing is to get something that has a good antenna. That's going to help your weak signal.

It depends on the layout... Extenders work best when they are placed half way between the wifi source and the computers/phones that need wifi. So if you can place the extender in such a location, it'll probably work well.

However if you cannot place the extender that close to the router, and need something to be close to you and to reach a far away wifi signal, you'd be better off with an external long range wifi adapter such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/136-2705769-8042210?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00VEEBOPG&pd_rd_r=5d6fe997-2011-44da-89ef-9cd8d8b333f7&pd_rd_w=8t2q7&pd_rd_wg=hSGDO&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=5QCM0YQK5SA3E2DWH9NR&psc=1&refRID=5QCM0YQK5SA3E2DWH9NR

That's only if you are converting a wifi router into an access point. Follow these instructions:
https://www.cnet.com/how-to/how-to-turn-an-old-wi-fi-router-into-an-access-point/

You don't need to do that if you buy an actual access point, like this one:


TP-Link EAP225 V3 Wireless MU-MIMO Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point, Supports 802.3af PoE and Passive PoE(Injector Included), AC1350 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kqIZCb7WK1SBS

Get a better understanding of what you're doing with this video:

https://youtu.be/Vc16CCAAz7Q

Yagi antennas are fantastic for long range, very directional uses, but consider your environment. You're not looking for that kind of range (multiple miles) though, just increased range than a typical user. More importantly, think about how a long yagi antenna is going to look sticking out from your van. Get a flat panel, semi-directional antenna that can sit flat against a window, and not be noticed.

 

This will work for you.

you can use an access point, or a router. a router creates a private network, while an access point simply bridges the existing network. if you need to allow connections from the rest of the network directly to your devices, use an access point. otherwise, use a router with a private lan. i recommend buying a travel router, as this gives you the option of both router or access point modes. it can also rebroadcast existing wifi networks in either mode as well.

My personal favorite combo so far:

http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUSO36NH-Wireless-Long-Rang-Network/dp/B0035APGP6

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Outdoor-Directional-Antenna-TEW-AO14D/dp/B000GHK6MY/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397831362&sr=1-13&keywords=rp-sma+panel+antenna

Antenna type is pretty optional as long as it's directional (yagi works just as well sometimes but i prefer the compact and flexible nature of panels)

Ok, proposed setup:

• CAT 5 from router to Ethernet over Power adapter
  
• Ethernet over power to Power over Ethernet adapter - included
  
• Outdoor CAT5 from PoE adapter to Nanobeam 5AC 19dBi (Gen2 isn't on sale in the UK yet..)
  
  
• Almost LOS (1 more meter out would be direct) Nanobeam to Nanobeam
  
  
• Outdoor CAT 5 to PoE adapter
  
• PoE adapter to Ethernet over Power
  
• Ethernet over power to the other router
  
  Is this too much? Is using ethernet over power(Powerline) stupid?
  
  Thanks for taking the time to answer these, it's much appreciated!

https://www.amazon.com/Bearifi-BearExtender-Outdoor-Extender-Antenna/dp/B00VW4M0WO?ref_=Oct_MWishedForC_3015438011_1&pf_rd_r=G8X7B5C0863SWEWRJZXR&pf_rd_p=78397ab1-4171-5200-9468-201e797078e6&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=3015438011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

​

If your trailer park wifi source is good. Always use a paid VPN when accessing.

This might also work. I use a pair of TP-Link outdoor CPE's to get internet to our garage that is a good distance from our home. These things are highly configurable for different applications. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P4JKQGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vRSjzbWAWGGB4

how about you just purchase two time switches and use them to powercycle your equipment once or twice a day during off hours?

If this solution is not viable for you, check this guide on how to DIY a bridge.

And lastly: Ubiquity's AirFiber range of products is intended to be used by internet service providers, where all the traffic for many customers gets transmitted over a single link. For your use case, I would suggest you look into the airMAX line of products. They cost much less at around 100$ per dish.