Reddit mentions of ALITOVE 3.2ft 60 Pixels WS2812B Individual Addressable RGB LED Strip Light Programmable WS2811 IC Built-in 5050 LED Rope Lamp DC5V Black PCB Non-Waterproof Compatible with Arduino, Raspberry Pi

I don't see anything that confirms they have a male/female plug setup to link together. The listing doesn't say anything about it, and none of the answers do either. Def more "inconclusive" than "verifiably the case", tho.

You can usually DIY to link up RGB, but a ARGB splitter will be much more of the plug n play solution you're looking for. Since you only have one header, you could get something longer like this or this. I can't personally vouch for the quality of either of these products, though — just that they should be compatible with your setup and not require a splitter.

I wouldn't go down this path personally, there are better ways to do it.

For a start it's too much current draw for a 9V battery, I fully agree with u/burgerga, something like WS2812B (or WS2813B) would be much more ideal, with much lower current consumption.

9V batteries have a full charged capacity of around 500mAh, if you plan on connecting 1.8Amps worth of LED's (300mA x 6) then the battery will last about 15-20 minutes tops. They simply aren't designed for high current draw, they are meant for very low current draw devices like smoke detectors etc.

WS2812B's are about 60mA per LED (20mA per colour, 3 colours being RGB) so 6 of them would draw 360mA at bright white or 120mA with just the Red LED's on etc, if run at full white and they can be had in many different configurations. So worst case draw of 360mA would give you nearly 2 hours from a 9V battery.

A simple setup would be:

• Cheapest mini style Arduino as possible, something like this (can be had cheaper from China).
  
• Attach a 5V strip or string of WS2812B's like this or this (again, cheaper from China)
  
• Load an example sketch into the Arduino from the NeoPixel or FastLED library and job done.
  
  If you are feeling creative then you can program the LEDs to be any colour in any pattern at any speed, WS2812B's are addressable so literally every LED can be a different colour, or off. Check some videos on youtube of the WS2812B they are very cool.

You should just use a microcontroller and some addressable LEDs. You could definitely do this in discrete hardware but why? It would be a big pain to adjust the rate at which it dims or a bunch of other parameters.

As an additional plus if you do those particular LEDs you could choose exactly what color you want your light to be, and adding a sensor to detect when the lights go out is trivial.


https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Individual-Addressable-Programmable-Non-Waterproof/dp/B01MG49QKD/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1543077641&sr=8-7&keywords=addressable+leds

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1501?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_NOB5bvt3gIVpCCtBh3ABAF7EAQYAiABEgJunvD_BwE

the DZ60 has underglow leds but no backlight leds - no need to get LED strips for this PCB.

But if you need led strips, I've used these before no problems -
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Individual-Addressable-Programmable-Non-Waterproof/dp/B01MG49QKD?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_lg_web_14162204011

> Which strips exactly did you use?

These ones. Make sure to use the 60 LED/meter ones!

> Did you glue them on?

The strips have adhesive. You can glue them on or use electrical tape. Up to you. I used hot glue because it let me angle the strips slightly outwards, so more light would escape (as opposed to just shining down on the aluminum backplate).

If you want to angle the strips outwards but don't have hot glue, cut a piece of wire and use it as a fulcrum when you tape the strips down.

> Will using a 2.0 usb just not make the keyboard work or will it burn my computer my keyboard and maybe my house ?

If you're powering the keyboard of a very cheaply-designed USB hub, it might draw too much current through the device and brick it. This has an extremely small chance of happening, though. There shouldn't be any risk of fires.

I've used the keyboard on plenty of USB 2.0 hubs without problem.

> How tf do you do step one in your tutorial?

I soldered small-gauge wires - you can see them in my picture. I found silicone-insulated wire easiest to work with.

> are the strips heavy or light?

The strips feel quite light. They certainly shouldn't be so heavy as to pull the PCB down. The strips are only $10 so give it a shot and see what you think.

> How sturdy are the switches on holtites, btw?

They stopped working after some time. I'd recommend putting the Holtites in the socket instead of on the switch. I haven't had a problem with any of my switches after I did that.

Sorry for the late response!

Ah I see. I used this kind of LED strip, so I had to cut and solder each LED to get it in position.

Your way is so much better.

https://smile.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Individual-Addressable-Programmable-Non-Waterproof/dp/B01MG49QKD/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3L6NLKF5Y7PT4&keywords=neopixel+strip&qid=1558322608&s=gateway&sprefix=neopi%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-10

I got one of These to use as ambient for my monitor, they work pretty well so I just ordered another one. You do need a Corsair to Jst adapter in order to connect them though.

WS2812B strips can be hooked up to a Lighting Node Pro or Commander Pro; the Corsair strips are WS2812B strips with magnets on the back. I used Dupont female to female wires to go from the JST connector on the strip to the Commander Pro's LED channel connector.

I believe I used this strip on Amazon. iCUE will only work with 60 LEDs on a channel, so one meter with 60 LEDs worked out as a more dense solution than the ones Corsair makes. If you are less inclined to DIY the cabling, these cables on eBay would do the same thing.

I also bought this to be able to cut the LED strip to length and keep the strip on the same LED channel by extending the wiring. Clamp the connectors down well to the LED strip and the wires and they work great.