Reddit mentions of Decal Setting Solution-Micro Scale Micro Sol 102 + Micro Set 101 Package Decal

Looks like it's referring to water slide decals. Also, as someone else said, Google Translate is 'good enough' for something like this if you use their App and the "Camera" translate function. I use it for model kits and such when I can't suss out specific instruction...


But anywho, very simplified from the Translate interpretation:

"Instructions for application: You will need: Scissors, tweezers, cotton swaps, etc for application. Prepare a bowl of luke-warm water beforehand.

1. Water (slide) decals are cut larger than the decal to be transferred. Remove excess parts of the decal beforehand. Then place in lukewarm water for ~3 seconds, use tweezers to remove from the water
   
   
2. Wait until the decal separates from the backing (paper), slide it off face-up and into the position you wish to apply it.
   
   
3. Gently use a cotton swap or similar to remove water and press out air bubbles
   
   
4. Do not touch the decal until it dries fully.
   
   Bottom, seems like notes/tips:
   ・Wipe off dirt/oil off the part you wish to apply the decal to before hand with detergent, for best results.
   
   ・Please use decal softener or water decal adhesive for better adhesion to complex or uneven surfaces. Caution that the decal may be easily peeled off without."
   
   
   
   For the last bit, taking from personal experience working on Frame Arms and similar kits, they aren't kidding about adhesive. Water-slide decals don't technically have any glue AFAIK, and are very easy to damage or just "fall off" without either clear-coating the model after, or using fixative to help adhere it to the plastic surfaces. Personally I've used this solution - Micro SOL/Micro Set to help with application, after being VERY frustrated the first time I applied decals and had them just rip and fall off a few days later.

absolutely, tell him I printed out my own. If he wants to do his own he needs the materials and the image he wants. The ones I asked to edit came from this site archive http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/files/category/21-decals/ .

He's gonna need decal paper and material to shape & seal it. Decals paper comes in a variety, either for inkjet or laserjet, and clear or white paper. So know what you want and the printer you have available. Note, like in my case if the decal he wants contains white, it will have to be printed on white decal paper with dark outline or background because of how some printers print out white. Otherwise clear should be fine. There's a variety of paper from cheap stuff like testor's or better micromark from hobbytown or hobby lobby. Just print it out but important, spray it with a bond/sealer so it doesn't run when dipped in water or crack when left to dry. Lastly if he's applying it to any round surface make sure he has some microsol and microset or else it will form bubbles.

So just those things: image, paper(~$4-12), sealer or varnish(~$5-7), and microsol+microset(~$12), qtips, brush, water

Try looking for Micro Set and Micro Sol from Microscale Industries Inc. Here's what they look like: https://www.amazon.com/Decal-Setting-Solution-Micro-Scale-Package/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=micro+sol&qid=1567416456&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You're doing well. That's really great work for an early model

Get some Micro Set and Micro Sol to help make your decals look better. My usual process is:

1. Put the decal you have cut out in water
   
2. Paint a layer of gloss varnish such as 'Ard Coat in the aea you want to apply decal
   
3. Once that is dry, apply a light coat of Microset down.
   
4. When the micro set is mostly dry, apply the decal to the model
   
5. Soak up any excess water around the decal and get it into proper position
   
6. Apply layer of Microset
   
7. Once the Microsoft is dry, apply a layer of Microsol to get the decal to adhere more closely to the model.
   
8. Apply coats of Microsol to the decal, letting it dry in between each coat until you're happy with the visual appearance. You can use a hair dryer to speed up this process if you want.
   
9. Apply a matte varnish over the area where you applied the decal to reduce shine and protect the decal - you may want to do that over the entire model with something like Testors dull coat
   
   I know that's nine steps, but that's mostly because I was very detailed and didn't want to leave anything out. The process is actually very quick and if you're putting decals on a large group of models at same time you can follow the steps as an assembly line
   
   The other thing I would recommend is potentially taking off the arrow decal in the back. It's totally optional, and your preferences definitely overrule anything I have to say, but if you want these bikes to have markings in line with codex fluff there are few guidelines to follow.
   
   The single arrows that point up are for troops such as Intercessors, Tactical squads, Scouts and such. The crossed arrows that point in each direction represent fast attack squads like Bikers, Assault Squads, Inceptors, etc. The chevron is used for heavy support squads such as Devastators and Hellblasters. At the end of the day, this has no impact on the rules or legality of your army, it's just part of the fluff guidelines that you can follow if you choose to

Micro Sol and Micro Set

amazon or any decent hobby shop will have them.

Micro Sol enhances the adhesiveness of water-slide transfers.

Micro Set "melts" them so they conform to fit any surface to which they are applied.

and because I'm a kind soul

Model looks great! The transfers are a bit tricky since the shoulder pads are rounded but I think it may be worth the effort. Check out micro sol and micro set if you're interested. Butt stock as black would add some depth to the chest area and maybe check out adding on hand grenades or the ammo/canteen bits too. My guard are the box art color scheme though so I'm not the most creative one out there!

Hi there!

Yeah, I think it's manageable! Just, and this goes for any model really, take your time, go over the instructions carefully and enjoy! Watch out for the wheel assemblies, as they tend to be tricky? Personally I attach them as late as possible because they have a tendency to break off during building.

Price of materials is tricky. Are you going to buy an airbrush, or just paint it with paintbrushes?

First of all you need some good glue. I use Tamiya Extra Thin (commonly known as TET) and revell contacta the most.

The paints I primarily use are Tamiya Acrylics. They can be used for both airbrush and regular brushes, they go for about €3.5 for 23ml. Get the black, white, grey and some specific colors for this build. You'll build up your colors as you go along, of course.I recommend getting a good primer as well (if you're airbrushing, not sure about paintbrush).

Don't forget a good Matt and Gloss varnsih; Tamiya has these as well, but for airbrushing I use Vallejo ( https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Matt-Model-Color-Varnish/dp/B000PH9JPA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_21_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KPJYCY6DQZ4FWN07X0QP )

These for sealing your colors and making sure your decals don't silver.

For the rest, you definitely need a good X-Axcto knife. (like, €4?) They're pretty cheap and last ages if you treat them right! Get some spare blades though, as they dull over time!

If you want your decals to lay down good, get some micro set and micro sol ( https://www.amazon.com/Decal-Setting-Solution-Micro-Scale-Package/dp/B01LXZ03W9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=micro+sol&qid=1562308408&s=gateway&sr=8-1 ) They're about €10. You don't *need* them, but they make the decals adhere to your model much better and give a great look too.

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I think that's about it. Like any hobby you can go as cheap or as expensive as you like. If you need any help, feel free to shoot me a PM!

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Edit: also read this: https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/9dhsqo/new_to_model_building_this_thread_is_here_to/