#1,073 in Automotive

Reddit mentions of Dupli-Color Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Engine Paint Black 12 oz. (DE1635)

Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 2

We found 2 Reddit mentions of Dupli-Color Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Engine Paint Black 12 oz. (DE1635). Here are the top ones.

Dupli-Color Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Engine Paint Black 12 oz. (DE1635)
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
or
    Features:
  • Flash point: -18 degrees_celsius
  • PROFESSIONAL
  • The Duple-Color Scratch Fix All-In-1 Touch-Up Tool Features An Abrasive Prep Tip, Exact-Color Match Paint, And Clear Coat
  • Flash point: -18.0
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height1 Inches
Length1 Inches
Number of items1
Size12 Ounce (Pack of 1)
Weight1 Pounds
Width1 Inches

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Found 2 comments on Dupli-Color Ceramic Ford Semi-Gloss Engine Paint Black 12 oz. (DE1635):

u/tmbridge ยท 7 pointsr/woodworking

I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.

With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.

Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)

And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)

And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h

Some important tools and materials are:

  • 220grit wet/dry, 150grit wet-dry, 8000 wet/dry
  • A full kit of grits for blade sharpening down to .1 micron). The Sample Pack -- either 1 or 2 sheets of each is what I use.
  • Granite slabs
  • Metal File
  • Evaporust - (this stuff is amazing, you can see the results in the albums below)
  • Brushes (plastic, brass, steel bristle)
  • Dupli-Color semigloss black engine enamel (Dupli-Color # DE-1635)
  • Spray Adhesive
  • Sharpening/Honing Guide - I got the Irwin model from Amazon
  • Rags
  • Murphy's Wood Soap
  • Olde English Wood Restorer

    I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.

    I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.

    The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.

    Albums
    -------
  • Family Photo Album - All planes completed. 1 Sold already and 2 are ending tomorrow
  • Stanley No.4 Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete & Added to personal collection
  • Stanley No 4c Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete and Sold for a $56 profit!
  • Stanley No.5 Record Type 9 - Complete & Added to personal collection
  • Stanley No.5 Type 17 (Purple Bed) - Complete
  • Keen Kutter No.4 - Complete

    For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:

    > Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.

    > Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
    > Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
    > Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
    > Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
    > That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
    > ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).

    It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
    > This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.

    Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:

  1. Took apart and cleaned all parts with soapy water and a plastic bristle brush
  2. Soaked in Evaporust for 24-hours
  3. Cleaned all parts with plastic, brass, and steel bristle brushes while in Evaporust
  4. Cleaned all parts with soapy water
  5. Dried all parts completely and then wiped with mineral spirits to get any remaining H20.
  6. Coated all parts in 3-in-1 oil
  7. Repainted bed if necessary.
  8. Reassembled
  9. Using Sharpie to mark bed and wings, flatten all sides with sandpaper on a granite slab. Used 150 grit and 220 grit wet/dry.
  10. Flatten lever cap contact point and front edge with 150g and 220 grit sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face
  11. Flatten chip-breaker (cap iron) contact point with 150g and 220g sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face.
  12. Adjust frog positioning for desired plane task (paper thin for smoothing No.4's, wider for No.5's)
  13. Restore knob and tote. Cleaned with Murphy's Wood Soap and polished with Olde English Dark Wood Restorer. (I wanted to keep the patina on these parts instead of sanding them down to bare wood and re-finishing. They are old tools and I want that to be reflected somewhere that wouldn't affect performance.)
  14. Sharpen blade with Scary Sharp method ( sand paper, Japanese Super Stone, 40 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron, .3 micron, and .1 micron grit progression). Cambered the blades of the No.5 I plan to keep but left all others 100% square so new users can adjust to their preference.
  15. Test!

    Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!

    --------------------------------------------

    I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?
u/tastycrumpet ยท 1 pointr/handtools

This helps immensely! Is this spray - http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1635-Ceramic-Semi-Gloss-Engine/dp/B000GKEXVQ

Can I ask what you typically do with the handles? I'll be able to use the originals on most of them (one tote was cracked and repaired, so I've bought a replacement). The issue with this is the replacement is still the original dark, and doesn't quite match the others. I'm sure they are all rosewood, just differing states of wear. Do you sand back and stain when you restore? If so, some advice for an original look would be great!

Thanks again for the reply.