Reddit reviews: The best automotive paints & primers

We found 616 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive paints & primers. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 264 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top Reddit comments about Automotive Paints & Primers:

u/bd_sic · 3 pointsr/Autobody

The easiest thing to do is get some touch-up paint from somewhere like Automotive Touchup and fill it in. If you're really ambitious, you can fold a piece of sandpaper (800 - 1000 grit) and lightly sand the rust (be careful not to scratch the surrounding paint -- you ONLY want to sand inside the chip). You won't get all the rust off, but it'll ensure the paint adheres. That step is optional, so don't worry if you can't do it. Next, make sure you clean the surface good with rubbing alcohol or prep solvent before applying paint. I would also recommend getting a more precise applicator to make the job easier. You can also chip off the reaming piece of paint that is raised and fill that in.


If the chip is deep (which this one looks like it is), then you can apply multiple coats. Just make sure you let the paint dry between coats (the paint should have instructions for how long that'll take). It's not going to look perfect, but it won't be rusty anymore.


And finally, you can get some clearcoat to ensure the touch up is shiny like the rest of the car. For your context, most cars are painted in what's called base coat/clear coat. Meaning there's two layers of paint: (1) a bottom layer which is the color -- in this case, the grey (this drys in a matte finish); and, (2) a top layer of clear paint which makes the car shine (this, obviously, dries shiny). The color touch up you get is the base coat and will dry matte, so if you want to match the car's finish, you'll also need the clear.


Hope this helps!

u/SplitMyPants · 1 pointr/subaru

It doesn't make you sound dumb, I'd rather see something unique and cool instead of the same mods that are done over and over again.

If you're looking into RallyX have you thought about swapping over to Forester suspension to raise it up a bit?

I'd go the Cobb AccessPort route instead of tactrix because of the simplicity and now that the V3 has come out, the V2 is around $100 cheaper I think. But if you're comfortable doing it that way do it.

I'm not sure if it's just the picture but the headlights look a bit foggy. I used this on my first car a few years ago and it worked great. Most of the other headlight restoration kits are bullshit. You could also bake them open and paint the plastic pieces black to spice things up.

If yellow foglights are your thing I used this on my Subaru and I love it. Just takes around 5 light coats on the outside of the fog lights and you're good to go. Much better than any of the tint overlays or light bulbs.

Here's some information on it. Daniel Stern is pretty well known as the lighting expert.

Another thing you could consider if you want to mix things up is plastidipping your car. DipYourCar has some wild colors, Sunset Orange and Tiffany Blue are my personal favorites. I'd stay away from the normal black though, it normally makes cars look pretty trashy.

Hopefully it doesn't sound like I'm telling you what to do with the car, just giving suggestions. Good luck!

u/AwesomeArachnid · 3 pointsr/Honda

With rattle cans your options are limited, but this method is what I used on my doorjambs and its held up pretty well over the last year. It's not as sturdy as a proper sealer/base/clear combo like I used on the body but works pretty well for rattle cans.

Go to automotivetouchup.com and select the year and paint code for your car and they'll try to mix up some paint to match as closely as possible and send it to you in an aerosol can. Or you can use Duplicolor matched paint from AutoZone. And if you're car is a metallic color, forget about it matching perfectly.

For the clear coat, buy this, it's real clear coat in an aerosol can and lays down really well, buy two cans to be safe, and make sure you have a respirator with organic vapor cartridges. This shit is nasty and you don't want to breathe it.

For surface prep, sand off anything that's peeling with 200-400 grit and then finish the surface with 600 grit sandpaper, anything less will show as scratches after you're done. Wipe it down and don't start spraying base until the surface is clean and dry.

Spray the base coat on using 3 medium to wet coats, 15 minutes between coats. Let the paint cure for at least a week, all of the solvents need to be completely evaporated or you'll have a huge mess on your hands when you spray the clear.

Now that you've waited a week, sand it smooth with 600 grit again and get rid of any runs you might have had in the base coat, wipe the surface clean, and spray the clear in 3 wet coats with 15 minutes between each coat. (longer flash time if it's colder than 65-70 degrees, shorter if it's over 80) After each coat it should be shiny, but don't worry if there's orange peel after the first coat, it will smooth out as the layers "melt" together.

If you get runs in the clear, DO NOT try to fix it (don't dab at it with a paper towel, your finger, etc.), you'll make a huge mess and it will be impossible to fix without respraying the whole thing. Wait until the clear has set up for a week or so, decide if it's really worth it to fix them, and go back with 2000 grit sandpaper and a block and smooth them out, then buff it until it's shiny.

u/Escabrera · 8 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Let me just get the safety information since that's super important and a discord server has is on command
>Clear coat
The most commonly used & recommended clear coat here is the USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss Clearcoat found here: https://amzn.to/2O0oZRB
It is also available in Matte and Semi-Gloss and all three types are highly recommended. In general, 2K clear coats will hold up much better than 1K, and will protect your work for years. Use of a standard 1K clearcoat will result in a finish that will wear off extremely quickly from use and leave you with a ruined paintjob.
Note: A couple things you need to know about USC 2K and all other 2K clearcoats.

>1. USC Spray Max 2K has a roughly 48 hour pot life. After this window has passed the clear coat will be unusable, so it's recommended you clear coat in batches.

>2. A can can typically cover 3 controllers, 3.5/4 if you're good about spraying efficiently.

>3. You must use safety equipment when using any 2k clearcoat. 2K clearcoats are HIGHLY TOXIC!*
3a. Wear a respirator, goggles, gloves, and a full body paint suit (preferably with a hood).
3b. Use light layers and work outdoors or in a professionally ventilated workshop (i.e. dedicated garage).
3c. Do not spray or leave to cure in an area where people or pets can breathe the fumes. This includes the full cure time as 2k gives off dangerous fumes until fully cured. Even very light exposure can make you sick.

>Please use the command !ccsafety to see more information
CustomGCC staff and members are NOT RESPONSIBLE if anything goes wrong.

!ccsafety info
Most painters in CustomGCC use the 3M Disposable Organic Vapor Respirator or similar, found here: https://amzn.to/2Nrz10Z
The cartridges on this mask are nonreplaceable and have a max use time of 8 hours before they're inneffective in protecting you, this means you must replace this mask every 8 hours of active use.
The filters also get used up just sitting around in the open air, so make sure you store it in an airtight bag between uses if you want to get the full 8 hours out of it.

>For a re-usable mask and replacement filters these are good options:


>Other Necessary Protection
Make sure to wear safety goggles, nitrile or similar gloves, and wear long sleeves/pants to prevent the 2k getting on your skin. Any clothes worn while spraying should be immediately changed out of and washed to prevent any chemical being absorbed by your skin.
A Tyvek paint suit is highly recommended: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VMU2SN4?pf_rd_p=f3acc539-5d5f-49a3-89ea-768a917d5900&pf_rd_r=QCS32SZFBER5RSNBE34X

>For a full writeup on respirators and safety gear please check this link:

u/relevant_pet_bug · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you are implying ohio state buckeyes football themed case then have you considered buying a case in those colors? I was bored so went through neweggs mid atx line to see if anything matched those colors and check this out. I found a couple good options. One high end and one budget but still good.

Keep in mind with both of these you are paying more for non standard colors.

Option 1: The high end option. MasterCase H500P Mesh White ATX Mid-Tower Case w/ 2 x 200mm RGB Fans. This case was interesting because the front of the case looks sort of like the Ohio state O in the Ohio state logo. You then set the front fans to red and you have a case in the colors. There are two problems with this case. First the colors are reversed. This can be solved if you are willing to do a bit of case mods. You could use masking tape and red plasti dip around the front to create a red O shape. Then you set the fans to white. The other problem is the price, at 139 this may out of your range. Furthermore, there is a gunmetal grey version, but it is 160. Furthermore, paying 139 and then spraying rubberized coating on requires confidence in your artistic abilities you may not have.

Option 2: The budget but still good option. Fractal Design Focus G Mystic Red ATX Mid Tower. This case already comes in red and comes with white fans. The white fans will likely look somewhat grey through the front of the case. This is one of the best budget cases in the price range, although this red variant will cost $10 more then the normal Focus G. Here is a hyper in depth review for you.. Some cons: This case could really use a third fan in back. Another con is that the case does not have tempered glass and instead uses plexiglass, If you don't care then that's fine. Finally, it is important to note that there nearly every other case people have listed is better then this one. That is not to say this is a bad case, fractal design make good products.

u/ExcerptMusic · 2 pointsr/Luthier

Basically. Think of the paint and clear as pieces of clear paper. You just keep stacking it. You have your primer, paint, paint, then clear, then sparkles, then clear, clear, clear, clear.

The more clear, the more depth. Too much clear and it starts to get hazy, unless you wet sand really well between coats.

Also do yourself a HUGE favor and get this spray clear. Once you use the hardener, you have 48 hours to spray more coats which is plenty of time.

u/slamsomethc · 3 pointsr/DRZ400

Unfortunately, for some reason, the third hose is included in the airbox microfiche, not the crankcase one or whatever one the oil return tank is located in. Found this out when I was repairing mine. Check it out. It connects on top of the large rear carb boot (#6, sorry, not the airbox. Technically called the outlet tube :P ) with a little plastic L piece.

Parts 11, 16, and 17 is what connects to the oil return tank.

I would use something higher heat resistant. Air duct material is usually only rated for about 180° degrees Fahrenheit radiant heat. This and related material is rated for 2000° F radiant, and like 400° F direct contact I believe.

They also have a black spray on coating. This would look perfect I imagine. Give it a couple coats, and I'm sure it'll protect it just as well.

DEI stuff is sold in O'reilly's, Pep Boys, etc. if you can't wait and don't mind paying a couple bucks more than Amazon Prime.

Any tape or sealant, make sure the oil return tank is SUPER clean. Any residual oil (oil in plastic even) can make adhesives not want to stay attached.

u/deceptiveat70 · 2 pointsr/GrandCherokee

Okay, I'll try to get this done on mobile.

Headlights: heat them and pop them open. It's honestly a huge pain in the ass Lol. Mask off and paint the internal bezel to your preference, but at least leave the ribbed and textured parts silver to ensure you still get good beams out of your lights. (The corner turn lens is also in there, see below for the tinting process.) Buy some butyl rubber ribbon and use that to heat and reseal your lights. I'll post links to the process I followed if I can dig them up on my PC. it's a little labor intensive, but the unique look is worth it.

Taillights and front corner turn signals: follow the process for applying VHT Nightshade spray on tint. I think mine are 3 or 4 coats and then clear coat. The clear reverse lights were masked for the tint and unmasked for the clear. You can then sand and buff them to whatever level of gloss you want. Mine were left slightly matted.

Lift/shocks/wheels/tires: it's an RC 2" bb with load levelers I got from Kolak on Jeep forums. Wheels are Discount tire MB TKOs and tires are 265/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs.

It's got a pinchweld mod to clear the tires.

If you want deeper info say the word and I'll give you a deeper write up when I'm on a PC.

EDIT for links

u/BenFett · 1 pointr/Nerf

Vinyl dye just comes in a spray can and you use it exactly the same as normal spray paint. It's for coloring like car seats and stuff like that permanently, but it works great for other plastics too. It's a much stronger form of primer than normal stuff.

Here, I've got a link to the clear coat: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPIMWQ?pc_redir=1410435739&robot_redir=1

You probably want flat clear coat, that tends to give blasters a plasticy-but still uniform appearance, which I like. I remember one of the auto zones near me had only gloss or semi-gloss for a while, so if that's all you can get, then it's better than nothing. Yep, you put it on over the finished product (make sure you wait a day or two for the paint to fully cure!! Otherwise it'll fade and look awful!) and it'll give it all a very uniform look, while protecting it greatly from damage.

u/punkonjunk · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

just as an FYI, that topcoat is garbo and won't last as long as you'd like. this stuff is amazing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043B7UQY

BUT very toxic, and you must wear a good mask with it, like this one at a minimum.

the customGCC community also dabbles in pro controllers and joycons and is an amazing learning resource if you are looking for more information on doing this, and doing custom buttons as well! I have learned SO MUCH about painting in just the last couple months I've been there.

u/ProbablyLegendary · 1 pointr/Harley

The wrap started black, too, but the paint really deepened the color.



The wheels are both 16"x3.5" (Roland Sands Diesel), and the Coker tires are 16"x5.1". That's why the front tire looks so much "fatter" than stock. So far they've got just under 1000 miles on them. Street performance is great, and the ride is super comfortable. It took a little while to get used to turning, though; the wheels resist the turn a bit more than stock at first, but once you get started they really want to keep going.

Here's my reddit post from when I finished her last year, if you want to know more.

u/cplrampage · 3 pointsr/projectbike

As previously mentioned, spray cans will do just fine for the primer and color. However do not use a regular clear coat for a gas tank, no matter how fuel resistant they say they are, they will still be damaged by gas. You need to get a 2K clear coat, it is a two part paint that will cure and harden and is what is stock on your bikes tank generally. You can buy them in spray cans that have a special valve on the bottom to allow you to mix the two parts.

USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m7qwCbSMY78J1

That is what I used to do my bike last winter, still looks great and is a super hard and scratch resistant finish. The stuff is pretty toxic, you will want to buy a suitable respirator, not just a face mask. You can primer and paint your tank as normal, wait a week or more for all of the solvents in the paint to evaporate (don't rush this, just wait, even if you think it is dry, wait even longer if it is cold out). Once that is done follow the directions on the gloss spray paint. https://imgur.com/Ovmz5mG.jpg

u/Frankshungry · 2 pointsr/airbrush

A good clear coat that can be polished is key in my book. I use this stuff on metal signs all the time with acrylics. It's high quality clear coat for small car parts or touchups. Comes out great.

Spray it on generously, If it's at all cloudy or you get orange peal, you can wet sand and polish with a rubbing compound just like you would a car.

I prefer one thick, wet, heavy coat to a misting and second coat. Easiest way I've found to get it even without orange peal. Just be careful of drips with this method.

I haven't painted a helmet since my youth but I sure wish I knew to use auto clear then. I ruined many paint jobs using Krylon and Rustoleum clear coats. They were always foggy and prone to orange peal.

u/WhyAtlas · 4 pointsr/Lightbar

The lamps were made by two different companies. Their R and D departments worked toward a similar goal in a different way.

Which one is better? Well, generally speaking, I would state that Hella has a better engineered product, whereas a company like PIAA or KC go straight for the "brute force" approach.

Will either work? Light them up, mock them up where you think you want them, and see.

As far as long range vision, light color does matter.

Given that you want to use them in less than ideal weather, I would recommend giving them a shot with a selective yellow tinted lens, using this paint ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000994BUW/?tag=2402507-20 ), or use a selective yellow bulb balloon ( http://store.candlepower.com/clyeba.html ).

u/rsmjr · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Really matters what type of paint you are using. But I'd always wait exactly what it says on the can if not longer. Especially for sanding purposes. For clear coat I'd try to find 2 part clear coat that is activated. That is closer to professional pant then your run of the mill stuff which isn't exactly meant to be on a car and in harsh environments. I have had super good luck with finding good stuff on amazon. Example

It is only good for 48 hours. Though I'd plan the paint to be as fast and soon as possible.

u/aywwts4 · 1 pointr/Miata

A standard color match aerosol works fine, get gun device for aerosol bottles, will save your thumb and give you cleaner more controlled sprays.

Buy too much paint so you can spray from a nice distance, liberally, and sacrifice all your starts and stops well away from your panel.

The important distinction is with the clearcoat, Buy activated clearcoat, and have more than you think you will need on hand. This stuff has worked wonders https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B00W2D806Y (Also easy to find on ebay) avoid the cheap clear like the plague.

Worth it: https://www.amazon.com/3M-07193-Cartridge-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00079FOK0

u/onewheeldrive619 · 1 pointr/CafeRacers

Yeah it's Autozone automotive color in a can and Eastwood 2K epoxy two part clear in a can. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY To be honest, I didn't do enough prep on my first effort and you could see some imperfections in the tank so I stripped it and started over. With the right amount of primer/filler and careful sanding, I'm amazed how good the finished product looks. A little bike tank and covers is easy. I can't believe people paint whole cars with rattle cans!

u/BlueContigo · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Unfortunately there's no magic to it. Carefully sand away (2500-3000 grit) the previous poor touch up job (use the sandpaper wrapped around the credit card trick). Make sure you get rid of all the crappy prior job, then clean it up with isopropyl alcohol. Then start laying in the paint, then the clear coat, making sure you keep it as level as possible so you don't have a bubbled up bit of clear. Then if you have the time/patience you can wet sand and polish to really perfect it (that depends on the severity of the chip/scratch if it's worth it)

A tool like this, or this is incredible for touch up, since the brushes that come in most bottles are too big to be useful. This video shows him using that tool, and how useful it is. I can't recommend it enough.

u/agayvoronski · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

Hold up! Before you buy that! Let me get you to the link, I found some awesome gas proof stuff that I painted my tank with!

Edit: here's the link

This stuff works great, applies well, looks amazingly smooth, nice and glossy. Best of all it's gas proof, I ruined a few Rust-Oleum paint jobs before finding it.

u/hansmoman · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

In your other post, its hard to tell for sure but the factory paint looks to be in tact. If you have them plastic wheel well liners are the first and most effective line of defense to stop rocks from ruining your paint.

I wouldn't sand off the factory paint just so I could apply POR15. Also I don't think you can get the paint out of the nooks and crannies without a sandblaster. POR15 says right on their website you CAN apply it over existing paint, but you don't get the anti-rust benefits unless its applied over bare metal. If you are going to this much trouble, you really should wipe it down with a degreaser / alcohol / acetone.

Regarding spray on undercoatings I have used the 3M Rubberized Undercoating (link) and its easy to use, but its only been a few years for me so I can't say how well it will hold up. IF you are currently rust free, you can just spray that over what you have now and skip the POR15.

u/GreanEcsitSine · 3 pointsr/gaybros

Baking soda + water are great for clean dirty car battery terminals.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable.

Make a slightly watery mixture of baking soda and water (filtered or distilled is recommend), and carefully pour the mixture onto the battery terminals; Be careful not to let the water touch both terminals.

Using an old toothbrush or wire brush, scrub the corrosion off the terminals, then rinse with filtered or distilled water.

With your terminals nice and clean, repeat the process on your battery cable connectors (it might be easier to soak the connectors in a baking soda solution instead of trying to pour it).

apply either battery terminal protector, Dielectric Grease, or a thin layer of [protroleum jelly] (http://www.amazon.com/Vaseline-100%25-Petroleum-Jelly-Ounce/dp/B007E62538/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374477009&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=petroleum+jelly) to the terminals of the battery.

Reconnect your positive terminal, then reconnect your negative terminal and you're all set!

u/moelost · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I used Spray Max 2k urethane clear over regular Rustoleum or Duplicolor acrylic enamel paint. It actually turned out really good. The 2K Urethane spray can really comes out well and ends up looking like a total professional paint job for much, much less.

Note: the urethane clear needs to be sprayed in a very well ventilated area and you MUST wear a protective mask and goggles. The stuff is super toxic. But you'll read all about it because the can is basically one huge warning label.

u/ngostout · 2 pointsr/DIY

This stuff is pretty good at making damn near anything glossy.


It's also really tough and holds up nicely in weather of all sorts and sun; I use it on my motorcycle builds. Best of all it drys fast. But be warned, it is toxic, so use a mask and do it in a WELL ventilated area. Also make sure you keep the helmet spotless clean before you apply it because it will seal everything in permanently.

u/Boogieman065 · 2 pointsr/Trackdays

>Is there a good way to go about getting custom graphics for my new bike? The owner had put stuff on the bike that just isn't me, and wanting to find out how to make it my own.

Most cost efficient track bike only owners use rattle cans. Look into spray painting/decals and using 2K clearcoat to seal it. If you're patient, the results can be real close to what professionals will do for you.

>At what point are tire warmers actually necessary? I got a pair with the bike, but haven't ever used them.

They help prevent your tires from going through multiple unnecessary heat cycles. It'll preserve the material. The use of warmers is more important if you're on track slicks than street tires, as track tires are not designed to go through many heat cycles. Track tires also provide very little grip when "cold" to the point where it could be dangerous for the first few laps.

>Im in California and my local tracks are Sonoma Raceway and Thunderhill.

Awesome sauce! I'm in Sacramento and I'll be at Thunderhill September 16th.

u/Ialsofuckedyourdad · 2 pointsr/PS4

So after 1 year of the painted ps4 it has held up pretty well overall. Yesterday i disassembled it again to clean up some dust and throw in some new thermal paste ( i just used as5 as it has never let me down before ) the paint had some marks on it from moving, it does appear that even after 6 months the clear coat still hasnt fully hardened yet. If i were to do it again i would use a clear coat with a hardener ( something like this ) but for the most part it looked ok, i waxed it with mothers synthetic wax and it looks 90% as good as it did when i was done painting it.

u/durhammmer · 1 pointr/FZ07

It’s not hard, just take your time with it and make it looks pretty. I used 1” wrap, I like the look of a tighter wrap though. And it claims to “increase performance” because your keeping more heat away from the engine, not sure if I buy that or not, I did it for cosmetic purposes tbh lol. I think it looks awesome, here’s a link for the stuff I used :)

Design Engineering 010107 Exhaust Heat Wrap, 1" x 50' Roll - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KoGjDb06KEJQT

High temp Silicone paint-
Design Engineering 010301 High-Temperature Silicone Coating Spray - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MY3ML8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LvGjDb07SXQKQ

u/ltafuri · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace


Smth like this one, can't remember the exact name but should work. Be sure to scrap the remainings of the old rubber texture and give it some sanding ! Good Luck !

u/lkmartin · 3 pointsr/customGCC

Hey! The best thing to do is to apply some form of protectant. This Glossy Clear coat spray is pretty well-used in the community, just be careful to spray in a well ventilated area/ use a respirator, since this stuff is pretty dangerous if inhaled.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm a big boy now

Congrats! It's exciting when they first start going on their own!!!

would love to have this if I win it's in my manly wishlist.

u/SnowThrasher · 2 pointsr/Autobody

Never used that website but seems expensive.

Amazon has this kit which seems nice because it includes clear coat. Just make sure you get the correct color. Even a color match will have a variation in the color. Be prepared, you will see the fix.

Then you just need a primer Try not to sand to metal.

u/RazorLeafAttack · 8 pointsr/Gameboy

In the custom GameCube controller community the use of a high end clear coat called USC Spray Max 2K High Gloss is strongly recommended. It’s designed for automotive use and worth noting—it’s very toxic and the can needs to be used within 48 hours before it cures in the can. The second most recommended option is Rustoleum 2x clear gloss which has worked well for me, is much cheaper, it isn’t a specialty product, and doesn’t need to be used within a 2 day window.

u/TheKobayashiMoron · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

Looks good. Other people have posted that getting a new Aero wheel from a service center is only $200, but this type of repair is a nice option for people that aren't close to one. Plus I'm sure theres labor and stuff on top of the $200.

This touch-up pen is a great match for minor damage.

u/buchsy45 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I mean, you technically could, but you’re likely not going to get good results. If the colour is even slightly different to the rest of the paint, then it won’t blend and you’ll have a visible spray mark on the grill. Avoid wiping overspray as well, that would just smear the paint around and could make things worse. You could possibly put tape around the scratch as thoroughly as you possibly can, and then spray with the tape protecting everything other than the scratch.

I’d personally recommend the dupli colour paint pen method, and I have a solution for helping you find the right colour. All you need to do is find all the spray can paints that dupli-colour makes, and find one with a lid that matches the colour you need. Once you find a paint that will work, read the label for the paint name, and then go find that paint in the pen version. Dupli-colour paints are basically just replica paints for all the automotive manufacturers out there, so I can 100% guarantee they would have a paint pen you could use. You’ll likely need to bring your speaker with you to the store so that you can compare the grill colour to the lids of the spray cans. Hope that makes sense 👍🏼.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ASF0104-Universal-Exact-Match-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE68ESI

Here you go

u/Bald_eagle_1969 · 2 pointsr/CZFirearms

I feel your pain. Bought a P01 from Cajun, had them do all the work i wanted done, waited what seemed like forever for it. First day I had it, I was adjusting and getting frustrated with the new holster I bought for it and inadvertently put the wrong screws into the belt clip. Holster feels comfortable so I shove the pistol in and hear the most sickening scraping sound. Right down to bare metal. I tried this stuff:


I'm no painter, and i couldn’t make it look worth a damn, but the color is a pretty good match. Good luck.

u/PmMePicsOfCereal · 1 pointr/Miata

Details on the paint:

I bought pre-mixed aerosol cans of basecoat from Automotive Touchup, paint code M8.

Clear coat is USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat purchased through Amazon.

I ended up using 4 cans of base and 2 cans of clear. My technique still needs some work, I ended up spraying too thin and taking more coats than I should have. This lead to some fish eyes which came out pretty well after wet-sanding and polishing. The basecoat color match seems close and I would recommend it, but know that their west coast shipping speed is pretty slow. It took around 2 weeks total from ordering to delivery.

u/BoredMechanic · 1 pointr/Cartalk

If it’s just this one spot, send a clear coat down the entire panel and then re-spray using 2k Clear spray cans. Make sure you don’t sand too deep. If you sand past the paint then you will have to spray paint as well.

Use this good 2K clear coat, not some cheap shit from Walmart

USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol (2 PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2D806Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d1OGDb0H7JTCS

u/Grasshoppeh · 2 pointsr/Archery

Kinda want to do this with my White Gold Black Wiawis Nano Max. How did you go about protecting the rest of the riser? Would you be apposed to pointing me to the can of red you used, mind pointing me to the product you used? (was it this?)

I love your riser, I wish I could upvote it multiple times :)

u/cafeRacr · 1 pointr/bikebuilders

Everyone recommends using this stuff. Supposidly it holds up well vs gasoline. Though it is pretty toxic. You need really good ventilation, filter mask, and make sure you don't have any pets near by. And it's a little pricey.

u/_tanith · 1 pointr/Fixxit

I'm thinking of trying this primer, and something along the lines of this for top coat, and this Spraymax 2k 2 part clear. The clear coat isn't very cheap for an aerosol but I think it will hold up well. Would you recommend still using a white base coat in between the white primer and green top coat?

u/FYWGI67 · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

I did a rattle can on my motorcycle. Here's an album of the whole process. Rattle Can Paint Job I think it turned out pretty well. The end step should be using a 2 part clear coat that is resistant to fuel, they have some that comes in a spray can too. it worked well for me.

I used this page as a resource

Edit: this is the clear coat I used

u/TheSplendiferousSpy · 3 pointsr/Miata

If that is all the actual rust, I dealt with rust spots about that size on my NB. I first used a sanding pen to sand the rust down. Then I applied some OEM Touchup paint. Last thing, I used Langka blob eliminator to form it to the rest of the paint. You can't tell its been touched up from about 10 feet away, any closer than that and you can tell. Better than leaving rust to sit. Here are links for all of those things.

Sanding Pen

Blob Eliminator

Micro Brush (Helps with touchup, sometimes)

The best part about the blob eliminator, if you mess it up you can use it to completely remove any touchup paint, and not damage the OEM Paint. The stuff is magical for small touchup spots, work on it until you are happy with the results. Will be much cheaper than 450$

u/thefru · 3 pointsr/gaming

I don't know what OP used, as his finish is more of a matte. But I've had great success with this 2K clear coat.

u/Adric-Customs · 2 pointsr/Gamecube

I’d highly recommend this.

USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lw5MDbAW4ZCZN

Remember to wear protective gear like glasses and respirator. This stuff is t your granddaddies rattlecans

u/Ugybug1900 · 1 pointr/Rainbow6

Spray paint. Doesnt matter much on primer and color but hands down the best clear coat is this.

u/corgismorgii · 5 pointsr/motorcycles

Gasoline drips will ruin ur clear coat if u use Rustoleum clear.


You need 2K Clear Coat (Epoxy 2 part clear coat). Its gasoline resistant basically. 1 Can did my SV650 gas tank to perfect gloss.


proper paint spray mask recommended

u/maaseyracer · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This is the clear I use. It is awesome spray can, 2 part mix. Gasoline resistant:


The results are incredible especially with a cut an polish. Great for smaller jobs and those who do not have a spray gun. Pro tip: buy a good mask this stuff is awful.

u/MatteBlack12 · 2 pointsr/customcontrollers

Looks great! If you want to take it a step further, I recommend using an automotive clear coat like this one. I made my first controller a few days ago, and it made a big difference. Here’s how it came out. (Note that fumes are toxic, hold your breath or use a respirator.)

u/Jugrnot · 3 pointsr/NFA


I recommend VHT paint. I painted my car's turbo manifold, turbine housing and downpipe with the shit and after about 20k miles it still looks good.

u/femaledocnotnurse · 4 pointsr/TeslaLounge

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this from amazon and it worked great. Has a coarse end to sand it down and matches perfectly.

u/RazsterOxzine · 5 pointsr/Autos

You can but a enamel clear coat to protect it - Before spraying the cover, try and test a small piece before applying the enamel. fyi
Can be bought at any local Auto store.

u/HoodiesUdder · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

That doesn't look too bad. But if you're not going to fix the issue (cut out those metal sections and replace them), since that's in the wheel well area which gets sprayed with water, sand from the road, etc.., I'd apply some undercoating on it to minimize the effects of road spray. 3M has a pretty good rubberized undercoating which I've used a few times (try not to touch it and wear some gloves) : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H9CMCQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I guess the only issue is that it won't match the silver / gray of the vehicle.

u/tj-tyler · 1 pointr/WranglerTJ

I used SEM Trim Black with great results. I used an adhesion promoter first. 1+ year on the flare looks the same as the day I painted it.

The problem with bed liner is that it's textured - and you have to strip/sand it all of if you end up not liking the textured look. But it's great if you like the look!

u/Supahvaporeon · 2 pointsr/gaming

Personally OP, I would have gone for a higher quality clear coat on top. The red is vivid and nice, but the texture on it looks less than wonderful. I would have used Duplicolor Gloss spray paint from experience.

u/Zombie650 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing


This is a catalyzed 2k urethane clear not much different from what you would spray out of a gun. I've used their primer (which worked excellent) but not the clear as of yet ( I use cheap harbor freight hvlp guns). You mix the clear and reducer by pressing a button on the can before you use it (one time use). Pretty space age for rattle can, and will be infinitely more durable than non-catalyzed clears.

u/civiltribe · 1 pointr/MatebookXPro

there's black porcelain enamel, not sure about dark grey for an exact match but may need to look into touch up paints for cars, bigger variety there. I was actually looking for dark grey varieties for my car recently, may be a good way to touch up the scuffs here since the material seems similar but I'm not an expert. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8

u/stinkycretingurl · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

every single time i overfill my tank or get drops of fuel on mine i say a little thank you prayer to spraymax 2k. i CANNOT imagine what my bike would look like without that clear coat. i have had gas just pour down the side of the tank before. spraymax 2k is the shit.

u/CaptainJamesMaySlow · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Clear coat provides protection over the headlight after sanding/polishing. I used this after restoring my headlights, came out real nice. https://www.amazon.com/Spraymax®-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Usc-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY

Video applying a clear coat to headlights: https://youtu.be/UEJbKLZ7RmM?t=449

u/Apotropaic_Sphinx · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

3M has this spray-on undercoating that works extremely well. It's better than what the factory undercoating is (asphalt.)

For long-term rust prevention, just wash the car regularly. Especially in the winter. That's really the most important thing.

u/thatazianguy · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/

Its for Ford, but it works great with the aero wheels and is almost indistinguishable up close.

u/Porkpants81 · 3 pointsr/3DS

One of the best things for painting rubber would be "Plasti-Dip":


The thing is that it might not work well on something like a carrying case since it is fairly thick.

If the rubber on the case is soft and flexible it will be very hard to paint it and not have cracks show up on the paint as it bends from opening and closing.

u/weatherjack_ · 1 pointr/DIY

I believe those help keep the chair stable. Lightly sand the feet. Clean with alcohol and let dry. Spray with https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ
Let it dry then paint.

u/Jhubbz86 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I've used VHT Nightshades on my tail lights before, then putting a few coats of clear on top of that, then wet-sanding and polishing. Turned out pretty darn good. This might be a similar application if you are willing to experiment. You can find them cheaper at local Auto part stores.

u/Tomtom0123 · 8 pointsr/teslamotors

Touch Paint
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz.


  1. Used 800, 1000, 1500 Sandpaper to sand down the rims as much as I can to be less noticeable.

  2. Touch up paint with 3 base coat and clear coat to finish it up.

    Edit: watched a few YouTube videos of Tesla Curb Rash repairs and find the one that best fit for you. I watched this guy for pointers

u/Specken_zee_Doitch · 1 pointr/SoCalRiders

Repeat after me: WD40 is not a lubricant.

Use a chain cleaner and wax like Maxima's offerings. Use as instructed, do it every 500 miles on the dot.

If it's raining, after your ride hose off your bike with a garden hose to get abrasives off the paint and out of the chain, your hose water is much cleaner than rain water and road grime. This will make it less intensive or even unnecessary to clean your bike after a rainfall.

Also, detailers don't like doing bikes. The detailers I've hired that said they'll do bikes are generally rank amateurs and shouldn't be allowed near anyone's bike. Bikes have nooks and crannies unlike those on a car, they have a bunch of parts exposed, they take a lot of time. They take so much time that the detailer has trouble getting enough out of the job to justify.

Get yourself a garden sprayer, a bucket, a pack of microfiber cloths, and a big old jug of auto-soap with wax in it. Clean that noise yourself. If you have an air compressor dry the bike using that as it'll prevent scrating.

Then, get a jug of carnauba wax and clean the shiny bits of your bike. Don't bother applying to matte or powder-coated parts.

/r/AutoDetailing, specifically posts related to motorcycles.

u/TJUNKIN · 2 pointsr/DaftPunk

As far as I know, there are 3 methods.

First, you can use the sticker window tint and hope you can get the creases out. It seems like a long-shot so I avoided it.

Second, you can possibly tint the plastic by dipping it in warm fabric dye. Some people have said that it doesn't work, others have said that it warped their plastic. So I avoided that too.

Lastly, you can use a spray paint called Nightshades. It is used to tint taillights on cars, but people have used it for helmets and other plastics before. I just tested it out on some spare plastic tonight, and it looks like it should work. You just have to be really careful about scratches and dust as they will magnify in the tint.

TL;DR Use the spray-on tint Nightshades (Amazon).

u/mlm3 · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

Assuming aero wheels, as mentioned above, dupli-color is a great match and will hide then rash nicely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HE66OK8/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

If you want to completely restore, new aero rims are $200 each. You can order through your service center.

u/dont_get_pissy · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Use some baking soda and water (spoonful to a cup), let it work (3-5min), then brush with a wire brush. Then remove the terminal and repeat on the terminal and the battery post. Grab some battery terminal protecter and give it a nice coat. Following these steps takes a little more time, but is the most thorough and longest lasting method I've come across. Cleaning the outer surface before removing helps your wrench get a better bite when removing pesky terminals.

u/ArmoredAmir · 3 pointsr/funkopop

Spray the print with a filler primer, sand it, rinse and repeat until the surface is to your liking. Then do a coat of matte primer (Make sure you test the two primers to make sure there won’t be a reaction). Then just acrylic paint.

u/RCuering · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

My husband used this. Go slow and watch for air bubbles. It goes on better and avoids drips if you take the tire off before spraying. Also make sure your rims are clean and dry.


u/HyJenx · 8 pointsr/bikewrench

Pretty much anything that you can buy at a big box store will fail fairly quickly.

Your best bet for a clear finish would probably be an automotive clear coat. These are 2-part catalyzed finishes that hold up very well, but are a little pricey.

Here is one option.

I have not used this particular brand, but it seems to get high reviews.

If you want color on your bike, look for local powder coaters. It can be done for a couple hundred dollars, and will last forever.

u/rreynier · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I wonder which one of these products (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YPsKDb133CFT3) would work well with the stock performance rims on the m3. I have some curb-rash going on that I would like to patch up like this.

u/stratospaly · 13 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I used a Dremel to smooth out the spot, 4 coats of paint and one of the sealant listed below. Very easy and looks good.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECOlDb09DPAAS

u/dpaul11 · 13 pointsr/DIY

here is the adhesion promoter that i was recommended


and also if you can find the "Krylon Fusion" spray can in the color you are looking for, it is supposed to be the best for plastics

u/huckyourmeat · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Below is what I used. I did a few coats and then a quick polish the next day to knock down the little bit of orange peel I had.

2K Glamour High Gloss Clear Coat, Aerosol, 11.8-oz, Pt# 3680061 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tH1uybY71238W

u/chocolatemeowcats · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

A 2K urethane is best. You can get gallon kits from most paint stores that carry industrial paints or order quarts, and 2k rattle cans from amazon.



u/stonecats · -19 pointsr/DIY

thanks for brainstorming this. may try this if no better option;
making a fitted cover over this is not an option - too much work.

u/imprl59 · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Clean it up good then you can use anti-corrosion washers or [anti-corrosion spray](https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80370-Battery-Protector-Aerosol/dp/B000BOKML2/ref=sr_1_2? s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496404545&sr=1-2&keywords=anti+corrosion+spray) or just coat them in a heavy grease after you retighten.

The corrosion is caused by the dissimilar metals and perhaps a bit by the hydrogen gas generated when charging the battery.

u/AM_Industiries · 1 pointr/golf

Maybe try some clear spray. VHT has a good formula that should work:


u/ehferking · 5 pointsr/howto

If it's metal of some sort, you can produce a mirror finish by following these steps.

u/Ocrizo · 9 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Grey is an incredibly close match to the wheel color. I would highly recommend you pick up some 400 grit and 800 grit sandpaper to smooth out the rash and paint over the marks.

This will probably happen again, so it will be nice to have an in-house solution. If you want tutorials, just search “dupli-color” in the various Tesla reddit communities.

u/tmluna01 · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

You can mask off certain areas if you like. Also, try 2k spray as a top coat for maximum durability.


u/Your_Brain_On_Pizza · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This is what I used on my repaint. Holding up great so far!

u/jamsessionein · 3 pointsr/cosplayprops

To add to the iron powder idea, there are actually metalized paints that are basically iron powder in an acrylic binder that you can brush onto parts and then weather with actual rusting solutions. Might consider spraying the piece first with a clear adhesion promoter. One thing to be aware of is that the rust can continue for aaaages, so once you've got it it to a point where you're happy with the look you may want to put some kind of sealer over the thing to lock it in.

u/SiebenSchumacher · 8 pointsr/motorcycles

VHT is popular for heat/flame resistant paint.

  • Here is their primer

  • Here is their colored coating

  • And they have a satin coating

    I think proper cure procedure is idle 20 min then cool 20 min, idle 30 min then cool 30 min, then run it normally for 30 min or so (ride it around). You can also bake it in the oven to cure it if the muffler on the bike won't get hot enough.

    Some people have very good results with this paint. I think it's very sensitive to prep and application. Have to lightly scuff or sand the surface. Then thoroughly clean with isopropyl alcohol or something to get all the dirt and grime off. Start off with a couple of light coats then start spraying heavier and heavier.

    I have not tried this myself but I did order it last week. I removed the mufflers on my bike and I plan on painting the underpipe section.
u/kousun12 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I also spray painted my r6, and used this for the gas tank. It's full 2k clear in a can with hardener that activates when you push the button on the bottom, so you can spill all the gasoline you want on the tank and it'll still be okay! :D

u/Rilnac · 1 pointr/SubaruForester

I always use an adhesion promoter for plastic parts like bumpers and trim. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ

u/srupinski · 1 pointr/Jeep

yeah I've got water inside them before I'm holding off for now since my tires are on their way out. but theres not much mud around here in new jersey mostly just sand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPAV9I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01 is where i got the paint, glossy black 2 cans for 5 rims and a couple coats. and 2 cans of clear coat ended up using about 1 1/2 cans.

u/pandito_flexo · 1 pointr/Lexus

Did you use a separate clearcoat to seal? This is what I ended up using and it's fantastic.

u/theuautumnwind · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I suspect that this would be superior to the one that chrisfix suggests. I have seen this used to protect restored/candied/tinted taillights.


u/brownies_n_barbells · 8 pointsr/gundeals

It's pretty basic really, but I described it below with lots of words. I typically either use Dupli-Color or VHT paints, because they have worked well in the past, I buy whichever matches my color needs.

Standard paint "system" is Primer, Paint and Clear Coat

I start with sanding the part lightly, usually 220 grit sand paper, followed by steel wool (to get all the corners), then cleaning, first soap and water, then greased lightning, then acetone. I wear nitrile gloves while doing the cleaning to avoid putting skin oils on the part. Then I let it dry (usually for an hour, to be sure).

For AR's I typically hook a clothes hanger or other wire through the takedown pin hole to make it easier to hold up and spray it. Personally, I do 5-10 lighter coats to avoid drips (because sanding an AR upper sucks) every 2-3 minutes then I usually wait 2-3 hours (usually watch a movie or go workout) and paint the color. Typically for the color I also do 5-10 light coats every 2-3 minutes instead of following the directions on the can. My rule of thumb is 3-4 coats past the point where no primer is visible. I then let this dry overnight for easier handling.

For baking, I suspend it in the oven while the oven is cool, heat the oven to 400F, hold 400F for 1 hour, then turn the oven off and let it cool with the door closed. I typically suspend AR parts by the takedown holes so it is in the center of the oven and not touching anything. I've done up to 4 parts at a time (2 upper, 2 lower) with no issues.

Take it out once cooled, and then I usually very light buff the surface (800+ grit) and spray on the clear coat. Usually I again do 5-10 coats quickly (again, avoiding drips). No good rule of thumb on the clearcoat other than "does it look completely covered?"

Then I repeat the baking process exactly the same way (400F for 1 hour, plus cooldown time) and I'm done.

u/Compulsive1 · 9 pointsr/teslamotors

His forehead.

Just kidding, I don't endorse any violence. Especially since I scratched my own too.

I read that this touch up paint is a good match

u/alpoverland · 1 pointr/motorcycles

This guy's right. Scratches will come one faster than you can imagine too. Nice work still, and congrats on the patience.

If you do consider clearing there's this 2k clear in a can, legit stuff. Though you'll need at least three coats and it adds up. If you've got a buddy with a compressor and a spray gun you can put on a lot more coats for less money when buying a tin.

u/celestiaequestria · 2 pointsr/motorcycles


You need a Grunge Brush and some degreaser and chain wax. A rear stand will make the entire process much easier - I'd recommend getting a Pitbull since unlike calibrated tools like a torque wrench - it's a one time purchase.

An automated system is missing the point, when you're cleaning your chain is also the time to check the chain tension, sprocket wear, clean off the chain guard, see if your front sprocket cover is bogged up with debris, etc

u/DDar · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

May I ask what lacquer thinner you used? Was it the normal model stuff like the Mr. Color stuff, or did you use something harder? Also, what hardener did you use on this?? I have no experience with that particular chemical!

Also, is there a particular reason you mixed it yourself instead of using a spray can like this one?

u/thebigbobowski · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

I’m an idiot as well and curbed my back rim on the very first day I had the car. I purchased some touch up paint from Amazon for 15 bucks and fixed it myself though. Looks decent enough. Not perfect but you’d never know unless you’re looking at it up close. This paint matches the aeros pretty much spot on:

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Djeheuty · 1 pointr/airsoft

To get paint to stick you have to give it a clean surface to stick to. Otherwise it won't be any better than trying to paint dirt on the ground and expecting it to stay. Even brand new guns are usually dirty from the factory they're made in. To clean the gun simply disassemble it and clean each piece with either soap and water or even running alcohol. Also while doing this you can decide what parts you want to paint and what ones to keep unpainted since you want to go for an accented look. It'll make it look a lot more like a finished product than if you were to spray the whole gun assembled.

After cleaning, I would suggest using an adhesion promoter before applying any color. I did this on a springer shotgun about five years ago and it barely has any scratches or chipped paint on it and I have solely used it in CQB until it finally broke this year. Follow the instructions (multiple light coats) and it will help a lot. Same goes for the primary paint itself. Multiple light coats of the color will stick and look better than a couple heavier coats.

u/yourbadinfluence · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

You can try to clean it off with a wire brush and white vinegar. It looks pretty bad though, I'd make a trip to the dealer and get a new part. Then when you install it spray some of corrosion preventative on the exposed metal. Here is a link to one product but I'm sure your local auto parts store has it or something similar.
Permatex 80370 Battery Protector and Sealer, 5 oz. net Aerosol Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOKML2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_owJ.yb6PW3WWM

u/chrisbrl88 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You need to use adhesion promoter for plastic. Not optional if you want the finish to stick. I don't give a damn what Krylon says - you still need adhesion promoter. Any auto parts store will have it. Then do multiple light coats of white 15 minutes apart (the recoat times on the can are very important), followed by a clear.

u/Just_the_Truths · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I honestly have no clue about this. I'm just using google. Something like this is what I'm thinking https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP102-FlameProof-Coating-Black/dp/B000CPJLGM

u/TemptedTemplar · 5 pointsr/teslamotors

Depending on how much rash there is, other users use this touch up pen to simply recolor the bare metal, as it's a near perfect match for the original rim color.

u/techiewriter · 4 pointsr/teslamotors

I see this one recommended often for the aero wheels and can confirm, It’s a really good match.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/MSD0 · 1 pointr/pcmods

You can get 2k clear coat in an aerosol can if you don’t have a spray gun. You have to use the contents within 48 hours after it’s been activated, so it’s best to do everything at once. It’s a good idea to wear a respirator (not a dust mask) when spraying.

u/montypython85 · 16 pointsr/TeslaLounge

Nope. Just get this ... Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Boom! Saved a marriage.

u/nogberter · 18 pointsr/teslamotors

I read on several forums that this is a perfect match. I ordered, but haven't actually used it yet, so I can't give you my personal endorsement.


u/SearingPhoenix · 2 pointsr/Nerf

I've used this to good effect.

u/SilverSportRunner · 2 pointsr/4Runner

I used this for rust conversion:
Rustoleum automotive rust reformer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003HG48AC/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AT7Q8GF6HPCHYDYGCC9M&dpPl=1&dpID=41Dob2efETL

And this for the under body coating:
3M pro undercoat

I used spray for both for getting into tight spaces. If I could do it again, I might line-x or monstaliner the underside for toughness though that coating was pretty tough it feels like it would scrape off on stuff but I sold my old 4runner before I could test that out.

u/combatchuck · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I've never understood why people think that pouring Coke, which has phosphoric acid, is supposed to clean up battery corrosion caused by sulfuric acid. Scrape off the corrosion, dump a bunch of baking soda on there, let it sit until it cakes, and scrape that off. Wire brush clean. Keep your terminals as sealed and dry as you can. They make spray to keep the terminals protected. It works wonders.

u/ihaveagooddog · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Literally my post from a few days ago lol. I got this per a Redditer’s recommendation.

u/nakedrickjames · 5 pointsr/Cartalk

Usually that's because once you clean them up, you've polished / sanded off the UV protectant that's on the exterior. You can simply re-spray a decent quality clearcoat on the outside and they should last quite a while.

u/just_mosin_around · 1 pointr/klr650

Odd, but either automotive or urethane should work, like this duplicolor acrylic laquer

u/Bengbab · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

You can't use standard rattle can clear coat. I did first time and had same issue. I then learned about 2k clearcoats (2 part epoxy coat in a rattle can). It's def gas proof.

Here's my bike before/after:

u/deusnefum · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Filling, sanding, priming (and repeating that process a few times), and then painting and then putting a catalyzed clear coat would make this look like the real deal.

u/PretttyFly4aWhiteGuy · 12 pointsr/MouseReview

You think something like this would work similarly even though it isn’t necessarily “commercial grade”?

3M 03584 Professional Grade Rubberized Undercoating - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002H9CMCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3A3kDbRDC6GX3

u/pedantic_jackass · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The same thought occurred to me. I wonder if something like this would work.

u/ScepKo23 · 1 pointr/customcontrollers

You can buy waterslide paper on amazon. There are two options, clear and white. As for clear coat, it is recommended to use a two part urethane clear. I personally use this for clear coating but be warned it is harmful if you breath in the spray so wear protective masks and spray outside if you can.


u/BigbigTimemachine · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

Seems like it’s the same one.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nc61CbD35T88N

u/peteck727 · 2 pointsr/skoolies

Took me forever to figure this out. It’s not easy finding parts for the little three inch pipe. I ended up using the transition plate listed below with high temp insulation between it and the roof. Then on the roof I installed one of these high temp silicon rain guards. Also, if you are looking for a chimney cap Home Depot sells a cheap one that was recommended to us by cubic mini. We painted the stove pipe and chimney cap black using high temp paint.

176203 3" Ceiling Support/ Firestop-... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHWAQK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Insulation, Wool, 0 to 1200 Degrees F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZI4T1U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

3 Silicone Hi-Temp Pipe Flashing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792PT94W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


VHT SP102 FlameProof Coating Flat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/quattrophile · 2 pointsr/cars

VHT Nightshades works pretty well so long as you take your time and do it properly. That said folks I know who've done it have had to upgrade their taillight bulbs after because they went so dark it was dangerous, you could hardly see the lights illuminating during the day.

u/superpopcone · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I have clear coat damage on a car that I would like to slow/stop (right now, I'm unable to commit time/effort to a proper sand down + repaint + re-coat).

From watching DIY clear coat repair videos, is it correct for me to assume that I can just go ahead and apply this 2K clear coat aerosol directly over the damaged area to prevent it from getting worse?

As I understand it, future repairs would just require removal of the clear coat anyway. Please let me know if any of the above assumptions are wrong.

u/Starman2018 · 28 pointsr/TeslaModel3

If it's a small scratch, I've heard this works well. Personally though, I'd wait a bit until you are more used to the dimensions of the car. It will very likely happen again.

u/rbrandonc · 1 pointr/CafeRacers


No, but I used this one. It's a two part epoxy spray, so it's gas proof as well

u/suntzutzutzhree · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I got the maxima chain cleaning kit:


Put the cleaner on, let it sit for a minute, scrub it lightly with 3 sided brush then rinse it off. Then put the chain wax on. Seems to work well, the wax solidifies a bit to keep it from being slung off the chain everywhere and the cleaner takes all the road grime off the chain.

u/Odd_And_Unhelpful · -1 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

While I dont condone the look, this is a spray on lens tint that still allows light to pass through. It will reduce light output slightly, but not at a dangerous level.

u/afterlife19 · 5 pointsr/TeslaModel3

I picked up a Dupli-Color Dark Shadow Grey for Ford at a local auto store for $15 and it's almost an exact match.

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/

u/MadSciTech · 1 pointr/subaru

I use Nite-Shades spray tint:


I pulled the tail lights out, masked off everything but the reverse lights and applied a couple coats. did the same thing with the wing mirrors only I didn't need to mask them as they come out completely with nothing extra to worry about spraying.

u/CalZeta · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

2k two-part clear coat seems to be what you're looking for. It's not cheap, but will withstand exposure to gasoline from what I've read.

u/Regs2 · 1 pointr/mazda3

This product is recommended as a coating on r\detailing.

u/perishabledave · 7 pointsr/TeslaModel3

This is what I see recommended on this sub. I ended up buying the Dupli color stick and some sand paper too. Have yet to find the time to do it.

Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJy6CbD6KH8DM

u/DisenfranchisedVet · 2 pointsr/Harley

Amazon. This is the exact kind I used.

u/bedhed · 1 pointr/Welding

Header paint is probably your best solution out of a rattle can.

High temperature powder coats may be an option,

Ceramic coatings work, but they're pricey

Regardless of what you do, I'd fire it before cooking with it to drive off any chemicals.

u/rendik · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you cannot find it in a local store, you can order it online:

u/Novux · 3 pointsr/Stance

I've used VHT's Night Shade previously. Basic rattle-can application.

u/Sharkbite547 · 1 pointr/Shitty_Car_Mods

VHT Nite-shade
It's a spray on tiny that is commonly used to tint tailights. 99% of the time it's done extremely poorly. It is possible he has a vinyl tint sheet over the tail lights but I'd bet its Nite-Shade.

u/Ecto-01 · 10 pointsr/Shitty_Car_Mods

It's a product called VHT Nightshades its transparent paint if done correctly.

VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cGjQDb8187N92

u/The_UTMOST_respwect · 3 pointsr/G37

They may be custom and not just tinted. But I think masking off the circles and using [NightShades](VHT SP999 Nite-Shades Lens Cover Tint Translucent Black Paint Can - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPCRS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9tbVDbD97SR29) would get a similar effect.

u/jrod155 · 1 pointr/DIY

if you're doing your rims, i suggest ceramic "header" paint from the auto parts store. I painted my truck rims matte black 10 years ago, the paint still hasn't chipped off. http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP102-FlameProof-Coating-Black/dp/B000CPJLGM