I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.

I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.

This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.



As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.

Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.

There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.

Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.

Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity

Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!

yeah you could do this in hard circuitry but an arduino has a bunch of inputs and examples that could do what you want easily for about ten bucks(some of those esoteric chips will probably add up to more and have less flexibility).

https://smile.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CB-001-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Arduino/dp/B01EWOE0UU

Well genuine Arduinos kick around $30. But it's an open source project, so you can find them cheap by other companies. The one I used here is made by a company called Elegoo; got it on sale for $10.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EWOE0UU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wouldn't an Arduino be a cheap replacement for stuff like that?

Materials:

• Arduino Uno (https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Board-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Compliant/dp/B01EWOE0UU)
  
• Audio shield (https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-Wave-Shield-Arduino-Kit/dp/B00IQXZN9Q)
  
• SD card with sound effects pre-loaded on it (https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-microSDHC-Memory-SDC4-8GBET/dp/B00200K1TS)
  
• Momentary switch / Pushbutton (https://www.amazon.com/Yohii-Momentary-Tactile-Breadboard-Friendly/dp/B07FGGFS2H)
  
• Speaker (https://www.amazon.com/CQRobot-JST-PH2-0-interface-Electronic-Projects/dp/B0738NLFTG)
  
• 4 lights (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=electronic+led)
  
• Wires (20-24 gauge) (https://www.amazon.com/slp/arduino-wire/d3d8ex72qdmw5mu)
  
  Links provided for the sake of example.
  
  The actual wiring and coding is pretty trivial. Also, you can do it without the audio shield but the shield simplifies things significantly.

The $11.86 solution is use an Arduino as an interface between the SPI slave and the PC. SPI between slave and Arduino, USB Serial between PC and Arduino.

There are also a lot of other methods that are simultaneously more complex and more expensive. Depends on what your requirements are I guess.

I saw it in the summer, in July. You must go there, the guy who picked up the phone may not know what it is. Below is a link to the an arduino on their website. its quite a ripoff but if you need it then at least this is a good place to buy it.

http://ekt2.com/products/productdetails/412_ARDUINO_ZERO_ORG

Alternatively, you can ask a friend to bring it with from the US for MUCH CHEAPER. i have bought many off of amazon, the link below is a cheap good quality one that i have.

https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Compatible-Arduino/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486427055&sr=8-5&keywords=arduino

Finally AliExpress sells them for even cheaper if you are willing to with some more .

Hope this helps and good luck.

This video shows you how to with rbpi3:
"https://youtu.be/hbX8Qu-QLnI"

This is what i did with an arduino:
"https://youtu.be/fIl5X2ffdyo"

This is the arduino i purchased:
ELEGOO UNO R3 Board ATmega328P ATMEGA16U2 with USB Cable Compatible with Arduino IDE Projects, RoHS Compliant "https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_GtjDDbY01YY8P"

Very basic instructions.

You will need;

• An Arduino (a clone will be fine) https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGOO-Board-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Cable/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=arduino+uno&qid=1569164723&s=gateway&sr=8-1
  
• An RC522 NFC module https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06X9PZSQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Some way of wiring it up (I soldered mine onto breadboard, but you could use male-female jumper wires) https://www.amazon.co.uk/TeOhk-120pcs-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B07R7ND6MT/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=jumper+wires&qid=1569164760&s=gateway&sr=8-5
  
• Arduino IDE software https://www.arduino.cc/en/main/software
  
• Blank NTAG215 NFC tags https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=ntag215&ref=nb_sb_noss
  
  The NFC module comes with a pin header that you'll need to solder onto the board.
  
  The NFC module pinout is labeled (the actual PIN numbers may differ per module), so hook up the following wires on the NFC to the corresponding pins on the Arduino;
  
  |RC522 Pin|Arduino Pin|
  |:-|:-|
  |RST|9|
  |SDA(SS)|10|
  |MOSI|11|
  |MISO|12|
  |SCK|13|
  |3.3V|3.3V|
  |GND|GND|
  
  With the hardware out of the way you can then follow the software guide here; https://github.com/konstantin-kelemen/arduino-amiibo-tools/wiki/Create-amiibo-clones-with-Arduino
  
  Be aware that the way that the NFC tags have to be written means that they become read-only, so if something goes wrong the tag is useless (I've had one failure in 5, so far).

So I think I am still a little confused on which atmega32u4 to go with. Would this one work? Just use male to male jumpers. I guess I am not sure of the difference between analog and digital inputs and which can be used for buttons.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWOE0UU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
or something like this, has more inputs. but is not a u4 board.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9NA4CY/ref=pd_luc_rh_sspa_dk_huc_pt_sub_1?psc=1

Having some issues getting mine set up, anyone able to help a brotha out?

I noticed you used ws2812b led strip but I have Different wires and I cant get my led strip to light up. I feel like such a noob. I tried following the imgur guide but i guess I'm a little slow and cant figure it out.

Here's what I bought....

Lights

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B5ZPCTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Power

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0KLECZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arduino

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWOE0UU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Already, looking at the parts i got, i'm going to need some bread
board(s) as i dont think what i bought comes with any :/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01IJLGH8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EWOE0UU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EUVJYME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

any other stuff i should get. common parts that break? or need replacing due to use? or used a lot ?
any tools that would be useful? I have a multimeter.

Nothing yet. I've been toying with the idea of doing a quick DIY on RX8Club.

I've got a pair of modified banjo bolts tapped with 1/8 NPT fittings in them. I have a K-type thermocouple intended for EGT measurement installed in the bolt on the front cover and a 150 psi pressure transducer in the return line. A second 150 psi transducer is installed in an Aeromotive fuel line adapter. A MAX6675 thermocouple analog-to-digital adapter lets the Arduino Uno measure the temps. A 20x4 LCD displays the values numerically.

I taught myself how to code the Arduino and make everything work in about 6 hours on a Saturday. The hardest part was trying to figure out the LCD and MAX6675 connections. I can upload the libraries and sketches somewhere if you want to copy my work.

Edit: look at that, it was already on my google drive... https://drive.google.com/open?id=19xV31SIuhSC76IQSWpr959vSRQg1Xekv

​

Edit2: Wow, looking at my code... I even documented things like what each line does and where to connect wires. I don't remember doing it but if drunk me wants to be a good programmer, I'm okay with that.

The simple implementation would just involve peristaltic pumps and a simple arduino board to turn it on/off. You'll need a drive shield since arduino logic pins max out at 40ma at 5V. Seems like it's possible to make a simple one for under $25. You'll also need to be able to write some basic programming logic.

pump: https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Aquarium-Cooled-Diaphragm-EK1856/dp/B0744FWNFR/

drive shield: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Driver-Shield-Compatible-Duemilanove/dp/B01DG61YRM/

arduino: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Board-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Compliant/dp/B01EWOE0UU/

Are you thinking of the elegoo uno?

https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-Board-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Arduino/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EWOE0UU&pd_rd_r=Y6TFPDEH4SJ1SGFXGK96&pd_rd_w=4tmqu&pd_rd_wg=nJTtj&psc=1&refRID=Y6TFPDEH4SJ1SGFXGK96

So I've been playing a lot with my 2010 and 2016 Fords, especially involving the camera.

Two different things can be checked, unfortunately both requiring a little computer kmow-how and some parts off Amazon.

1. APIM Settings. Using a Modified ELM327 adapter and free software called ForScan, you can access the module configuration and ensure Reverse Camera is enabled. You need to register on their forum to get an unlock code for the software, so sign up right away if you order the adapter. There's other settings you can change as well, such as DRLs.
   
   
2. Scan the CAN-BUS. This one's a bit more complex. Using a Canbus shield attached to an Arduino Uno, you can connect it to the MS-CAN on your truck through the obdii port. A relatively simple bit of code can be used to determine if the radio is getting proper signals telling it what gear you're in, or force it to think you're in reverse. Obviously if you want to go this route, I'll help you through getting it set up. Very minor soldering is required to put the pins on the canbus shield. No vehicle wiring is modified.
   
   Just keeping a quick note, if yours is the same as my 2010, the gear messages should be ID 3B0, with Reverse having a data of 0x01.
   
   
   If you go with an aftermarket camera, it's entirely possible to make it display on the navigation screen -- any standard composite camera will work.

Where are you seeing $25? Even full sized prototyping arduino uno's can be found for < $10. You might want to get one for prototyping and then build the final version using the arduino pro mini for size reasons.

https://www.amazon.com/IEIK-Board-ATmega328P-Cable-Arduino/dp/B00P2FX9WY/

https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Compatible-Arduino/dp/B01EWOE0UU

https://www.amazon.com/MakerBest-Quality-Compatible-ATmega328P-Development/dp/B00Q6ZW4NO/

Arduino:
https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Board-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Compliant/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=arduino&qid=1570048422&sr=8-6

Arduino blink tutorial:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink

Control LED with transistor:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlyV_AHYGcM

Robot:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-wall-avoiding-robot-FabLab-NerveCentre/

These are probably good to get you started.

Yes, I'm using a sort of knock-off Arduino Uno. Wikipedia says the ATmega238 (the MCU on the board) can operate at 20 MHz, which I think should be plenty.

I found an interesting fact when playing around with the code. At first I had the code run every 3 - 5 milliseconds. I Then took that constraint away to have it run every loop and it didn't change a whole bunch. I then had a line print to the serial monitor cause I was timing how fast the loop was, and it seemed that the serial printing added just enough delay to make the oscillation very very close to being stable. The oscillation was there but it didn't grow to be unstable, it was just constant. So, somehow adjusting how fast the MCU is computing the input based on the state helps with the oscillations. That leads me to believe I'm definitely having a noise issue in how I'm calculating the derivates. I think the Kalman filter suggested above will be a good thing to implement and hopefully settle that oscillation

Change out the Ethernet cable so a quick disconnect switch (item 1) sits connected to it. Then hook up two servo motors (items 2A and 2B) to an Arduino micro controller (item 3). Program the Arduino to actuate the servos to disconnect the internet then turn it back on about 15 seconds later, program it to do this about every 10 minutes nonstop. He will not get through a single game without disconnecting. Connecting items 2a and 2b to item 1 will require hot glue and or duct tape. Just tape item 3 to the back of item 1


Item 1
https://www.amazon.com/Internet-CUT-OFF-Kill-Switch/dp/B00RQVFHZ4

Item 2a-b
https://www.amazon.com/ElectroBot-Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Controls/dp/B071KJV7DD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=servo+motor&qid=1563946830&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Item 3
https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CB-001-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Arduino/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=arduino&qid=1563947177&s=gateway&sprefix=ardui&sr=8-5

You can get a super starter kit for an Elegoo uno (an exact copy of the Arduino uno) for only $35.

https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-Project-Tutorial-Prototype-Expansion/dp/B01D8KOZF4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483551035&sr=1-2&keywords=Elegoo+uno

you can also get these sensors for cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-Sensor-Module-Arduino-MEGA/dp/B009OVGKTQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483551035&sr=1-7&keywords=Elegoo+uno

EDIT: You can also just get the Elegoo R3 UNO for $10.

https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Compatible-Arduino/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483551035&sr=1-1&keywords=Elegoo+uno