Reddit mentions of TOPGREENER Smart Plug with Energy Monitoring, 15A, 1800W, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, 2-Pack

I've had this printer for 3 years and have tweaked it about as far as I can go without replacing the electronics or frame. Here are the mods I recommend, in the order they should be applied for maximum effectiveness...

1. MOSFET mod. This one isn't for effectiveness, but rather safety. There is no thermal runaway protection on the firmware, and this mod will prevent heavy current from going through the control board...instead it is routed directly from the power supply to the print bed. It's a lot easier than it looks, and doing it will give you a good overview of the innards of the electronics. DO NOT SKIP THIS MOD. (While you have your electronics enclosure cracked you might also consider installing a 120mm cooling fan mod, which will make the printer MUCH quieter if you get a good fan for it. However, this mod can be installed anytime later on.)
   
   
2. Remote print monitoring. Octoprint. This mod is less about printing better and more about printing easier. Swapping out MicroSD cards sucks. Octoprint will make controlling your printer MUCH easier, especially if you plan on leaving it unattended and want to check on it remotely. Adding a camera to the Raspberry Pi and you can monitor it remotely. If Octoprint is a bridge too far for your skills, then AstroPrint is a much simpler fork of Octoprint. Same basic functionality, but you don't need to worry about IP addresses and such. I used AstroPrint for two years before finally installing OctoPrint.
   
   
3. Smart plug. Again, this is for unattended printing, which most people will say you should never do. But, unless you work from home or are a shut-in, you'll end up doing this so you can make nice sexy 50 hour prints. A wifi enabled smart plug like this one will let you kill the power remotely if your print fails and you're looking at a mess of spaghetti from afar and can't get home to clear it. While you're at it put your printer and Octoprint server on a UPS...even a small power blip can cause your control board to reset and your print will fail.
   
   
4. Glass print bed. Now, a lot of people will disagree with me on this, and even more will disagree with me on it being #4, but I found the bed to be a bit warped on mine and this upgrade got rid of that. It's easy and cheap and will give you glass-smooth first layers. I personally recommend borosilicate glass over Home Depot window pane glass or mirrors, but YMMV. Use only 3 small binder clips to secure the glass to the heated bed, skipping the front left corner (otherwise your nozzle might collide).
   
   
5. Z braces. There are tons of options out there. I have the standard front-mount variety, but I wish I'd installed the back-mount type...something like this...so I could get some more clearance around the bed in front when I'm leveling. Depending on the Z braces you install it might lift your Z columns off the table. If so, print something like this to add some additional support.
   
   
6. Part Cooler Fan Duct/Shroud. I've tried them all...the Dii, Cii, Cobra. The one I finally liked best is the [OptiCooler](https://letsprint3d.net/2017/01/29/guide-installing-a-mosfet-board-maker-select-v2/). Important note: you should really print this in PETG or ABS because the tips of the ducts get really close to the hotend and can melt if printed in PLA.
   
   
7. Microswiss All-Metal Hotend. I was having a lot of heatbreak issues on mine, where heat creep would cause the filament to get too soft in the PTFE tube and cause a jam. The Microswiss eliminated all that. Well worth the money. Get a couple spare nozzles while you're at it.
   
   
8. While you're modding the hotend, get some silicone socks and discard the wool/kapton crap that will drive you crazy if you try to replace it. Super cheap on BangGood or AliExpress. You'll be glad when you get a failed print that tries to glue itself to the hotend.
   
   
9. Y-axis carriage upgrade. This will reduce the weight of your Y-axis carriage and give you dramatically faster print speeds because of the reduced inertia. Huge improvement for me. Adding an actual cable drag chain at this point would make a lot of sense so your wires don't get caught or abraded. Why Wanhao/Monoprice don't include a Y-axis cable chain is beyond me. You'll need to print one rather than buy one because the hotbed cables are hardwired and can't be removed...the printed variety of drag chain lets you install it with the wires in place.
   
   
10. While you're under your Y axis make sure you have some good belt tensioner replacements already printed (hopefully in PETG for strength). I printed a bunch, and found these to be the best so far. My testing is far from exhaustive, so YMMV. Putting these on the X and Y axes will make your prints have less texture in them from the belts bouncing around.
    
    
11. Speaking of bouncing around, the front and back of the Y-axis frame on the Wanhao/Monoprice printers can get a bit bendy if you really crank up the tension on the belt. This is a major weak point and should be stiffened. The mods I installed is a two-part affair for the front and back. Be forewarned, the replacement stepper bracket for the back is a BITCH to get installed. I wanted to remix it and designed captured nuts for the bracket, but never got around to it.
    
    
12. Lights. Oh my god, lights! Once you install lights in your printer you'll wonder how you ever saw anything without them. I skipped the whole dedicated LED mount on the print head and just adhered a strip of LED lights around the entire inside of the frame. There's just enough space to stick it inside the arch and let the steppers clear as they move up the Z screws. If you're good with electronics you can wire them in directly to the main power supply, so you don't have another power supply under your desk.
    
    
13. Not necessary for print effectiveness, but I eventually upgraded my thermistor to a screw-in variety. They are less likely to short out.
    
    
14. Z-extensions. I've only really needed these on a couple of prints, but they are nice to have for extra height.
    
    
15. Oh..one last thing. Unlike the i3 Plus, the v2 has a separate power supply and electronics unit, which makes moving the printer a pain. Cut a section of 3/4" plywood 24" x 24" and put everything on it...makes moving it so much easier. Go to the dollar store and buy some cheap gray doormats...spray glue those onto the plywood to dress it up!
    
    Lastly, I highly recommend having a stock of spare parts for your printer on hand. Nothing is more frustrating than having your thermistor short out and despite Amazon Prime you're still down for two days while you wait. Order ahead from Ali or BangGood where possible, saving yourself some money in the process. I recommend getting some spare nozzles, silicone socks, belts, an assortment of M3 screws and nuts, spare 40mm fans, spare part cooling fans (axial or radial depending on your mod). You'd be surprised how often fans go out!
    
    Good luck, have fun! Be safe!
    
    (edit, added #15)