Reddit mentions: The best sewing machine accessories

Be aware that if you try to reduce the speed of a 14500 rpm motor by just the voltage, but have a high torque load, you could burn it out. DC motors don't love rotating very slow as each of the commutator bars has time to heat up excessively when it's conducting.

I guess I don't understand whether you mean a drill that is capable of turning screws etc, or whether you mean something more like a Dremel tool. Using a motor for a Dremel tool application without gears is fine. Using a motor for a real drill without gearing just won't work.

Anyway, if you were confident in your hardware hacking abilities, what I would suggest is that you make the power supply adjustable. I've done this with exactly that type of supply to run LED lamps by hacking the supply to a 6-12V adjustment range.

This does require some skill. Basically what you do is you find the resistor pair in the supply that sets the output voltage and you wire a potentiometer across the resistor that is connected to the positive supply output.

I could try to walk you through if you had pictures of the PCB. But it's actually a bit difficult to get those supplies open in the first place, without breaking them. You do need to have some confidence in your soldering abilities.

I think you should buy a PWM controller.

However there are a couple of other fun ways to approach this (fun, not necessarily practical). Note that I have not done all of these, these are just suggestions that you could experiment with.

The first idea is inspired by these sewing machine speed control pedals. They use an amazingly primitive method of regulating the current to the motor. Basically there is a stack of carbon "pencils" (really disks of graphite) that are compressed between two electrodes when you press the pedal. This site explains pretty well in the second section of the article.

You can see that if you could find a block of ceramic with a hole in it, and get some carbon rods from carbon zinc batteries, you could make something like this yourself (FYI you need to heat the carbon rods up to several hundred C to burn off the crap from the batteries). It's basically just a super simple (and not very precise) rheostat. You would use about 1/6th the number of disks, because your voltage is about 6x lower than these are meant for. Obviously this will get really hot in operation, that's why it's normally made of ceramic.

Heck if you can obtain one of these sewing machine control pedals, you could simply remove most of the disks and replace them with a metal cylinder of the same length. I think that would work. I believe these pedals are pretty universally available. But be careful to look inside and buy the one with the ceramic block, since more modern ones use AC dimmer controls and won't work. Presumably that old-school stamped steel construction is a good indicator of the guts. Mine looks exactly like the picture in the first link. Heck and the second link looks exactly like the first link too.

The second idea is to actually make a voltage divider, but using incandescent lamps. The thing is, normally a voltage divider is completely impractical for high powers. But incandescent lamps are capable of dissipating very large power without a whole lot of hassle. They also have some other properties that make them useful for regulating current but which aren't very useful for you (positive temperature coefficient of resistance (PTC), if you are interested). I've used lamps for high power resistors extensively. For your application it's desirable to use a higher voltage lamp, because this will behave as a more ideal resistor. Below about 1/5th of their rated voltage they are quite normal as resistors, only above that does the PTC property kick in significantly. So for instance you could use a pair of 100W/120V (or 200W/240V) incandescent lamps as resistors. They have about 10 ohms or so (20 ohms for the 240V ones) of resistance when cold (remember, PTC effect: so ohms law doesn't really tell the whole story since R changes). So a divider made of two of them will supply 10V with 5 ohms or so of output resistance, which is a 2A short circuit current and 10V nominal output. Of course you can play around with different number or wattages of lamps on the top and bottom of the divider to get the effect you want. It's going to be bulky, but it will work.

Edit: I should say that 120V lamps are really quite a lot better for this than 240V lamps. 240V lamps just have quite high resistance unless you go to really high wattages.

Sure. I recommend getting a few issues of Otome no Sewing, it's a magazine/book with lots of patterns and instructions to make several lolita outfits each issue. It's all in Japanese, but each issue has several tutorials that have very detailed pictures of each step. I've made 8 different pieces just from Issue 4,. You can find issues on Amazon from independant sellers. You'll also need tracing paper to trace the patterns that come with the books.
Gosu Rori doesn't have as detailed tutorials, but the designs are a lot more varied.

If you're going to make a dress with lots of ruffles I suggest investing in a ruffling foot for your sewing machine. It's much faster than doing them by hand, and makes very even, professional looking ruffles.

Get familiar with different techniques for putting elastic in fabric, either by shirring or sewing elastic directly onto the fabric. It really helps with fit, and if you don't want to deal with zippers, it's a good alternative.

Last thing I can think of, is that once you get the hang of different types of skirts and bodices, you can mix and match to make pretty much anything! It's fun! (when it's not frustrating as hell) PM me if you wanna know anything else! Good luck!

So that's a Japanese badged machine, definitely a high quality machine because it's going to have all metal parts. Especially being made by Toyota, in my opinion theirs were some of the best machines made at the time. The type of cord you will need is a motor block/power cord, something like this, where you plug the machine into the 'machine' plug, and the light would plug into the other. (Do you have another cord for that? It looks like you have a light bulb switch on the front there.) Looks like a straight stitch machine, so the knob on front will control how long the stitch length is, and the R is for reverse.

The way it's threaded looks pretty standard - from the top spool, loop the thread through the top left thread guide, then around the tension discs, catch it on the spring then back under the next thread guide, then thru the take-up lever hole, down thru the left thread guide, thru that next thread guide, then around the thread hook near the needle clamp, and then thru the needle. Not sure which way your needle should face though/which way to thread the needle, whether its front to back or right to left.

The paint on this is in AMAZING condition, and it's so CLEAN. It looks like it's hardly been used!! Make sure to oil it before using, and lubricate the gears, as it has probably been a while since it has been. (Unless the seller did that ahead of time?) Good luck with your find, looks great!

Hello all! I wanted to share with you my organizer for all my daily cross stitch stuff. I had been looking for an easy solution to store my stuff without having it all over my coffee table and be able to easily move between rooms to continue working on my projects. I finally found this little organizer on Amazon and it's PERFECT for what I needed. I thought it would be fun to go through my bag and show what supplies I keep in there. Not pictured are obviously my hoop this is my all time favorite and the grime guard that I am trying to learn to love.

Everything is stored in the Roll-up canvas organizer that I got from Amazon. It's made for crochet supplies, but comes empty so you can load it up with your own stuff. Lot of designs available, but most importantly, CATS!

Section 1:

-Dritz seam ripper

-Cottage Cutz 2-in-1 needle threader

-Basic travel scissors

-Embroidery Scissors

-Needle Minders - one homemade from a dichroic pendant from a local craft fair, one made from a Babypietattoo hand painted clay pendant

-Tiny magnet set - I used this as a "minder" before I got around to making new ones. I keep it inside my kit now to use for my needle threader. I usually stitch with the kit opened in front of me, so it's easy to just throw the threader down on the magnet and have it handy

-Needle threader


Section 2:

-Needle Twister - this thing totally rocks and I want one for each size of needles!

-Magentic needle case

-Assorted sewing needles


Section 3:

-Needle minder from Maggies Minders

-Hem clips - I got mine in a vintage sewing box from an estate sale. They are perfect for clipping back extra aida to keep it out of the way

-Clover fine tipped water soluble marker

-Snip-a-Stitch scissors


Section 4

ORT [Thread catcher] from Maggies Minders

DMC magnetic needle case

Dritz Fray Check with applicator tip

This is a Singer 201 (with the old-style iron chassis) from 1950. It's a very well-regarded model. Here is a manual. Here is a generic manual for a range of popular vintage Singer models.

It looks like you're missing a slide plate and also a foot pedal. Do you have the power cord?

The slide plate should be easy to replace; it's a common machine model. See for example here and here.

A wide range of pedals should work (you'd just need to unscrew the pedal and connect the wires inside), but if the power cord is also missing you may need to get a replacement pedal and cord for this specific model (or another Singer model which uses the same kind of plug socket), like this or this.

This machine has a horizontal bobbin case which takes class 66 metal bobbins (they're not as common as the class 15 ones, but still pretty easy to find). It uses the standard domestic needle type, and low shank feet (or potentially snap-on feet with a low shank adapter, assuming they don't need zigzag to work).

Unlike many old iron Singers which can be fitted with a separate belt motor (interchangeably with a crank handle attachment or a treadle mechanism), this machine has a built-in "potted" motor which directly drives the gears. It's impossible to replace these motors if they wear out (unlike belt motors), but there is an extensive guide for refurbishing them.

Hopefully this won't be necessary -- you can rewire a motor without messing with the internals. And the whole machine looks like it's in very good condition, so it's entirely possible that all you have to do is replace the missing bits and clean and oil it.

I took 2 craftsy class when they did free online classes Labor day weekend: Big Quilts, Better Results & Creative Writing with Your Walking Foot ). I highly recommend both classes! There was so much information. Newsflash: you don't have to quilt straight lines with your walking foot, I was blown away by that concept!! You have more options than free motion quilting and stitch in the ditch.

I can give you a few tips that I've found helpful, but they may or may not be the best route. I learn so much from trial and error.

• this idea previously came from a post this subreddit. Basically, when making the quilt sandwich you roll up your quilt top (they used a large cardboard tube, I got an expandable closest bar from Home Depot) then unroll it as you spray baste.
  
• spray basting. I saw it recommended in a youtube video when I first was starting. I've never used anything but 505 basting spray. Best. Thing. Ever.
  
• Walking Foot... Specifically (as I've recently learned) an Open Your Walking Foot, they have little markings for 0.25" 0.50" etc... Which is useful for using your walking foot to make patterns (see the craftsy video).
  
• Don't roll the quilt. It sounds like a great idea, but when you roll up a giant quilt it becomes very stiff and difficult to manuver. I'm still struggling with managing the large quilts. I think I'm gonna try out a quilting grip next. I don't like many of the grippy gloves I've seen enough to want to try them.

I've been using this sewing machine ST371HD for about year and half now on denim repairs and alterations. It's held up like a champ considering how cheap it is. I'm looking to upgrade to a new machine(s) for top stitching and machine darning. I use the free arm feature a lot to get to place without busting too many seams. Anybody have any good suggestions? I'm open to new or used, consumer or industrial.

Edit: incase anyone else is interested. This cheap Darning foot made a huge difference in the quality and ease of my darning repairs.

It lets you use an extra tall ruler up against the side of your presser foot to make straight and curved lines. You have to have a special ruler and foot so your regular foot doesn't hop on top of the ruler and completely wreck the timing of your machine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCVY9D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It came from Ken's sewing center and it says they are out of stock, but I'm sure they will restock. I have a clear ruler foot from clarity like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SHANK-Clarity-Foot-Sewing-Machines/dp/B06XGGRBRS/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XGGRBRS&pd_rd_r=R87XS8HD9SVSZ0R5AP7M&pd_rd_w=8MBNL&pd_rd_wg=Srb96&psc=1&refRID=R87XS8HD9SVSZ0R5AP7M


but you have to be really careful on how whether you have your presser foot up or down and position your needle or you'll break the foot. It doesn't hop which I like, but it also sometimes gets stuck on a seam if it's not floating high enough. I can't recommend it high enough for stitching in the ditch! My ditching is so much neater looking now. In these pictures you can see the how much straighter my lines are when using the ruler foot. the orange picture shows what happens when you use a curved ruler and the last picture is the back of something that I stitched in the ditch with a straight ruler and then filled in parts with free motion quilting.

http://imgur.com/a/v57lF

I started with a foot like that and HATED it. I believe what it does is hops. It will come down and touch the foot plate, then raise up and down as you sew. What you need is something adjustable. I would recommend trying something like one of these. You can then make it adjustable with this video from Leah Day

I tried to find a fully adjustable one, for your machine, but I didn't see that Singer made one for a low shank machine, which I believe is what you have. The one I use is from Janome, which should fit your machine, but I couldn't guarantee it, and $50 is a lot to spend for "maybe". Here is the one I use Janome Foot

Edit: Reddit keeps spazzing on me, and erasing my comment. Here's the rest...

So, the difference is... if you look at the cheap foot I linked, you can see that it is spring loaded, which means the foot will be pushed down, until it touches the plate. The motion of the machine will hit the little bar sticking out, and make it move up and down as you quilt. The video I linked from Leah Day, will show you how to make it adjustable by bending the bar back and using a rubber band, so that it will stay in a fixed position. If you look at the $50 Janome foot I linked, you will see that it has an adjustable screw on top, which allows you to raise and lower the foot until it is at the correct height.

I wish I had a better option for you, but with these entry level sewing machines, there doesn't seem to be a lot of options.

With all of that said, I'm not a professional and take anything I say with that in mind. I'm just trying to relay to you, what I learned when I first started with my little entry level machine last year.

Here is a final tip, if you do end up using either of the above options, always keep your foot down as low as possible, with just enough clearance for the fabric/quilt to pass underneath. If you don't, it will lead to all kinds of issues with missed stitches, and not sewing right. You can guess how I learned that. :D

Maybe someone else will have a better answer for you, but that's my two cents. Good luck!!

As a final edit.. I FMQ with the feed dogs up all the time. I find it doesn't really make much of a difference. Also, I just have a little Janome 2212.

So stuff like this? Also, how do you apply grease/lubricant to the bearings? The rails/worm gear I’m assuming it’s directly applied, then the axis is moved up/down/left/right to apply throughout.


Zoom-SPOUT Sewing Machine Oil Oiler ~ 4FL. OZ.(118ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYCKTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6cPJBb3ZHQ8QH

3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HcPJBbYNBTFVR

Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DdPJBbVT5E89G

Super Lube 21010 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), Blistered, ½ oz Tube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXKZQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dPJBbN0D6KVT

Sorry I was confusing in my post- I meant that I need a 1/4" piecing foot, but additionally a walking foot with a guide bar would be helpful. I have a really nice walking foot for my machine but it does not have a guide, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Distinctive-Premium-Walking-Machine-Presser/dp/B003Q3L200

Accufeed sounds like a nice feature!

Hey all -
I am about to quilt my first quilt ever! It's sandwiched, and basted, and ready to go...except...I want to do straight line quilting and I don't have a walking foot. I tried to buy a foot on Amazon, but I can't figure out what will fit. I have this Sunbeam sewing machine. It's a front-loading machine, but I can't figure out if it's high or low shank (and its product description says nothing about this). Do you think this foot might work? Can anyone help?




Bonus - Quilt and dog

I got a kit on amazon that came with several feet (I bought it solely for the zipper foot I had lost, because it was cheaper than buying a zipper foot alone). It also came with an extension type piece that adds the piece to your machine where snap ons would attach, if your amchien doesnt have it. Some of the older machines dont have this piece, so it allows even those machines to use the universal feet. Janomes are typically not considered universal, though, from what i read but then again they all arent the same. Look at your machine and the attachable snap on adaptation piece...if itd fit, the feet will fit. If you already have the snap on piece built into your machine, just make sure its not too narrow and theyll fit. My kit was ~8$ with shipping and was labeled 11 piece kit, I believe. Edit: Here is what I bought.

oh hey also this doesn't fall under seam guides, but my stitch in the ditch game improved VASTLY with a joining foot. https://www.amazon.com/Distinctive-Joining-Stitch-Machine-Presser/dp/B003Q6O9BQ

you put the guide in the seam and it helps like a billion percent

Speaking from experience I'd look into a used industrial walking foot machine. It will handle everything you want to sew and then some and you can usually get them for $500-800. It will last your entire life if you keep it oiled and clean.

You can try a lesser machine but you'll be disappointed in any home machine if you want to sew lots of thick stuff. I do highly recommend a vintage European machine, or vintage singer as a suplimentary machine and for general use on other fabrics tho. You can usually find them for less than $100.


Source: I sew a lot of really heavy raw denim...with thick leather patches. I've made 32oz jeans on my walking foot machine, I've done 2 leather motorcycle seats with it...it will sew thru anything. It's my main machine for my denim

Edit: you can even find new walking foot machines for less than $1000.

If you want to stay even cheaper take a look at the rex zigzag walking foot machine

...it's like $350. I've taken a look in person and this machine is a mini industrial, all metal workhorse. These are designed for sailmakers and boat upholsterers so it is a portable industrial they can take to the boat and use. It only has a smaller motor, but you could upgrade that later for $100 if you want. You may have to tune it out if the box tho, the price you pay for low price. Once tuned(if needed) it should do very nicely. If I didn't already have a walking foot machine I'd probably take a chance on this one...especially with Amazon primes return policy.

The quarter inch foot is definitely a great friend to a quilter, but better yet is a moveable guide - my Pfaff came with one and it rocks! If you have a couple of little screw holes to the right of your presser foot, that may be the place to lock in said guide. If you don't, they also make a magnetic one that could work for you. I swear I would barely manage without that little piece of metal.

I use one of these. It is a 1/4" foot with a guide so you have a little extra insurance to help you with your fabric. My hands shake and I also have arthritis, so all the help I can get, I will get! LOL

The foot is cheap and you can always replace it. I should fit most machines if you have something with a low shank snap on.

I have the same machine and sew knits often, I found that I love using a knit foot instead of the walking foot.
https://www.amazon.com/HONEYSEW-Tricot-Singer-Brother-Kenmore/dp/B019MLD8JW

Also, yes make sure you're working with a stretch or ballpoint needle.

That sewing machine is yelling for oil!
If you want to try it on your own, get something like this that you can put some oil past the bobbin case on the shaft.

Put a towel under the machine and oil every moving part, including under the needle plate after you remove it. Work the oil in hand cranking the machine, see if you can get the squealing to stop.

If you can't get it to stop making noise, probably need a sewing shop to re-grease the internal gears.

Good Luck!

My dad got me an old sewing machine from one of his friends. It is a Montgomery Ward sewing machine (it doesnt say what type.) The sewing machine works perfectly when plugged in and so does the peddle. But my mom said she thinks the presser is missing for the machine. Is it? And if it is would me buying this fic my problem?--> https://www.amazon.com/Machine-Presser-Babylock-Simplicity-Machines/dp/B01MCYWLUK/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&fbclid=IwAR0ZhSMtNaPRjOUI0K27vkch6IImEtC4y7jt3tcqT7zDhMh1Bb0To3lTMEI&psc=1&ref_=ox_sc_saved_image_9&smid=A34788DK4L5DWV

https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B079RMRZ8D/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CJ2CAWNG3QY75HDGTNB7

This is what we always used... the spout is handy in some situations too, we had this air conditioner that required periodic oiling or the fan bearings would start howling. We've had the same bottle of it for some 20 years lol.

I use sewing machine oil, doesn't gum up, doesn't stink, pretty much ideal for these kinds of low load applications.

I might be mistaken, but I think my hair klippers came with plain old mineral oil, which probably would work the same, if it's not the same stuff anyways. lol

If you have a local sewing repair shop see if they have this oil because I love the spout. Whatever you do use sewing machine oil because other types can gum up machines over time. Also I don't know if your Pfaff is the same, but I recently came across a Pfaff 130 but in terrible shape. From what I've learned the zig-zag mechanism is prone to freezing up because of the tight manufacturing tolerances, even when stored in ideal conditions. If it is frozen you may want to take it somewhere and have them take a look at it.

a small machine oil is what you want to look for.

like the stuff you use for a paper shredder, hair clippers, or sewing machine.

https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B079RMRZ8D/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=small+machine+oil&qid=1554237567&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Is your machine low shank or high shank?
I got mine on amazon as a set for my low-shank Kenmore. It comes with a buttonholer. It has an adapter so it should fit your singer as well.

Looks like this is it: https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Premium-Machine-Lubrication-Commando/dp/B00500UVNQ

It's not a tutorial, it's a special foot designed for sewing-in-the-ditch, which you aren't doing. The foot just really helps with the understitching part. This is what I mean

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038R6UG0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What is the subs opinion of the large sets of feet - like these?

My machine has an overlocking feature that I wanted to try out on some stretchy fabric to see if I can get by without a serger.

It is lubricating oil, check it out. I have a few in the garage.

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Machine-Precise-Lubrication-Commando/dp/B00500UVNQ

And this is probably the company that made the oil in it.
http://www.chemsearch.com/productsByCategory.asp?level1=22&level1_desc=Lubrication&countryName=United+States&prod_category_id=22&prod_category_desc=Lubrication&country=USA&language_id=4&language=English