Ooh! Ooh! This sounds fun. I put some time into this when I should have been working, so I hope it helps.

1) Pruners - $20.49

This will be your most used tool. Eventually, you can upgrade into Felcos or Bahcos, but right now just get these Coronas. They're honestly a better size for hobby gardeners (fit right in your pocket), and the're very high quality for the price.

2) Your First Gardening Book - $17.06

Gardening Without Work by Ruth Stout. It's simple and gives you a general plan that really does work very well. It's a must for beginning gardeners, imho. You can find just about any other information you need on the internet (for now). Very little maintenance required, including fertilizing, weeding, applying pesticides, etc. (In a nutshell, the main step involves putting down an 8" layer of mulch...).

If you want to go with a more traditional raised bed setup, you should buy Mel Bartholomew's Square Foot Gardening. It's a fantastic back yard gardening book, as well, but the methods are kind of pricey and less sustainable. Still, it's a great system for growing a lot of food in limited space and it was the first book I used.

3) Indestructible Garden Trowel - $15.99

This will be your second most used tool. This particular model is about as indestructible as it gets short of this bad boy. You'll use it for digging holes for transplanting, mostly. Don't buy a cheap one or it will bend or break or both.

4) Fertilizer - $7.83 + $11.06 = $24.26

I chose cottonseed meal because that's what Ruth Stout recommends using (the rest of the nutrients in her system come from the giant mounds of mulch). Apply as she indicates.

I also added some Fish Emulsion Liquid Fertilizer because I love the stuff. It's a great way to add some extra nitrogen (and just a little P & K) mid season to your veggies or even to your compost pile when it gets carbon heavy. The stuff I have right now stinks, but the plants love it and it's easy to apply if you have a watering can.

Make sure you tailor your fertilizer to whatever system you're using, though. Don't fertilize like Ruth if you're not using her mulch based system. If you're using Square Foot Gardening, you won't be fertilizing at all, but you will be using lots of peat, vermiculite, and (different kinds of) compost. Etc, etc, etc.

5) Work Gloves - $10.97

These are specifically for women, but there's a button to switch to men's if that's you. You won't wear them all the time, but you'll be happy you have them when you need them. Notice that this comes with 6 pairs of gloves. I misplace gloves all the time, so having several is handy (hehe).

__

Total: $88.77

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Notes:

• Save the rest for now. You're inevitably going to become enamored with something like earthworm casings, azomite, or a nozzle for your gardening hose down the line. Your future self will thank you for having some extra cash to buy it with, and this is plenty to get you started on your way to being a badass backyard gardener.
  
  
• The two above methods claim to be mostly pest free. In my experience, nothing is pest free, and you just need to grow enough quantity to weather the storm when it does randomly come. I would just concentrate on growing healthy plants first and foremost and then let the chips fall where they may. You might turn to pesticides later, and that's fine, but hold off on buying any until you know what is nibbling on your plants. Most pesticides are specific to the pest.
  
  
• Notice that I don't include any seeds. Your first year of gardening, I'd honestly recommend just buying live plants from your local nursery (and sticking to plants bred to survive in your region). Growing from seed can be hard, and your entire crop of seedlings dying is a humbling experience, I can assure you.
  
  The other reason there are no seeds on my list is because I don't recommend buying them on Amazon. I've had bad experiences every time I've tried it. If you need seeds, go with a good seed dealer, like Johnny's Selected Seeds, Burpee, etc, or find a good nursery in your area.
  
  
• If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  
  _____
  
  TL;DR: Pruners, a book to get you started, a durable trowel, fertilizer that is specific to your growing plan, and some gloves. Enjoy!

Compost and fertilizer do they same job, but you would be purchasing different things. Fertilizer would be something like Garden-tone which is little granules you'd sprinkle onto your soil. Compost would be something you'd purchase in a bag like potting soil like this. A simple explanation would be that fertilizer usually acts faster and runs out faster, compost takes longer to kick in but lasts longer. Compost also helps break up your soil and improve it so it's healthier for your plants. Compost (or composted manure) is also often cheaper. I usually work compost into my soil and then use a little bit of fertilizer near my big plants like my tomatoes.

Growing plants from seeds is a lot of fun, but it takes about 8 weeks to get tomato and pepper seedlings that are big enough to plant outside. You'd probably be better off starting with seedlings this year and trying to transplant your own next year. Also, setting up a system for growing plants from seeds to make sure they grow well can get complicated fast! So starting your garden one year, and working on seed starting later in winter when there's not as much garden stuff going on is a good idea. In order to save money on seedlings you might want to watch for sales at your local hardware store or see if there are any gardening groups in your area that might trade or sell extra seedlings. You can also plant mostly plants that are always grown from seeds directly in the garden like cucumbers, beans, squash, melons, etc. That simplifies things a lot.

Also I'm glad the size comments were helpful. I learned that the hard way when I was starting out. Doing one side at a time sounds like it would work really well!

And I hope you enjoy preserving. It's amazing how much money it can save once you've had a little practice, especially when the surplus is coming out of your own garden.

Okay... so here we go and please try not to take this as me being a jerk. I AM trying to help.

> 1. Which of EWC, Guano, bone & blood meal is required/optional?

1. Will I encounter any nutrient burn/deficiency with organics?<br />

2. For pests, how do I prevent/treat them organically? (predators? products? neem?)
   
3. How much can I expect to yield in these conditions
   
4. Is curing just a slower method of drying to improve potency?
   
5. Any other pointers/Tips/ Warnings for a new grower like me?
   
   
6. None of this is required. It is all optional.
   
7. What organics? Are you talking about soil? What do you mean here?
   
8. This was all covered in the www.growweedeasy.com website. And information lacking there can be easily sought out on the web. This leads me to think that you didn't "thoroughly read the growweedeasy easy site, as well the important threads in the microgrowery & autoflowers subs" as per your reply above.
   
9. Again, this is covered on that site. There are some rough calculations for this that takes your plant size/grow space and your light wattage and type and gives you a basic eyeball estimate of what you can expect. Something like ".5 grams for each watt" type of thing.
   
10. Once more... all those tips and warnings are on that website, and in various sidebar panels in the grow subs like you mentioned. And can be easily sought on the web.
    
    So, you can certainly find that information because you have "already visited those sites/subs and read the information". Or, you didn't read any of it... which seems more likely based on the questions you're asking.
    
    I'll try some:
    
    
11. Go with a premix soil to start with. No, not Miracle Grow. Get some Fox Farms soils... I am using their Ocean Forest soil (commonly referred to on these sites as FFoF/FFOF), or their Happy Frog soil. It has all those cool things already in the soil, like perilite, guana, worm castings, etc. It's pretty fucking sweet. Looks so much 'better' than standard big box potting soils.
    
12. I don't know what organics you mean. But I have not had any issues with the FFoF soil and some Alaska Fish Fertilizer I used during veg. I have used nothing else (yet) during flowering, because I transplanted right before flipping the lights, and the soil has everything it needs for a month or so (depending on frequency of watering). I plan to add in the "Morbloom" 0-10-10 also from Alaska in the next watering cycle and will use that for 4 weeks until I "flush".
    
13. There are too many pests for us to just say what info you need. I'll tell you this though: a plant's best defense is being healthy. So, the better you can make your grow environment for optimal plant life, the better your plant will be in fending off any pests. A few tips: standing water and high humidity will attract flying insects in any environment. So, keep your soil as dry as you can for as long as you can. Diatomaceous Earth on top of the soil will help keep that environment unhealthy for many flying insects like gnats and shit. Also, sometimes I will 'bottom feed' (watering into the runoff tray and allowing the soil/medium to soak up water) this will keep the top of the soil dry. As always, someone will be along to tell you why I am wrong in doing this... lol. Welcome to our subs!
    
14. We'll need to know a lot more information to determine what you COULD expect if everything goes fairly well during the 3-4 months of your plant's life. Honestly, it will take me longer to type out what info we need, and it will take you longer to type all the answers out than it would for you to find that on growweedeasy.com or google. Sorry to be blunt. Pun intended and also not intended. Schrodinger's Pun.
    
15. Yeah...
    
    So there are some helpful tips from me. As always, your mileage may vary, and that is usually based on the environment and level of care you give the plants.
    
    Here is the link to my 56 day veg grow diary.
    
    Here is the link to my 19.5 day flower diary.
    
    ProTip: click the heading link once the page loads to open the actual imgur link. The pictures are bigger and the text is easier to read.
    
    Please post a diary or blog so we can see what progress you have! And as always, hippy growing. I mean happy growing 8)...
    
    
    
    
    
    

The top one seems severely underpotted. I've saved a phal in a similar situation to your second one except mine had only two leaves with one split down the middle length-wise. I saved it from my mother who over potted it and watered it like normal house-plants. I do't see any fungal infection but cutting away mushy roots is good. I would repot in a 4"+ pot with slits and additional holes. Medium-sized bark with some sphagnum mixed in. It seems you kept it in the tiny pot of tightly-packed moss for too long.

I also suggest using some kelp extract. I use it for all my rescues and repots - it majorly promotes root growth noticeably.

We need to also know more about where you keep your orchid, routine, and your location. Phal care in NYC (me) will differ from care in a dry, hot area like CA. You should be watering not by a schedule but by need - if you notice the roots are silvery and dry, that is when you should be watering. Twice a week seems like a lot - especially if the media is still wet, that definitely promotes conditions in which rot and infection could occur. The tight moss means very little airflow which all leads to root death. I water anywhere between 5 - 10 days based on need.

You can water by soaking as you are doing or by running water through the root area of the plant for a few mins and letting it fully drain. Remember that orchids are epiphytes and grow naturally on the sides of trees and rock in open air. The reason we use bark is because 90% of us don't like in ultra high humidity areas like Hawaii or the Philippines or Florida where these plants are native to. The bark/sphagnum/whatever media retains moisture but also provides enough airflow to somewhat simulate those ideal conditions.

Here is mine last August and here it is last month - it has even more roots now and growing a new leaf but I dont anticipate rebloom for another year or so.

Bloom is good but it has really low nutritional value the, there is hardly any NPK. I use all organic dry amendments now with pretty good results. There are a ton of cheap options out there and you can just top feed with dry amendment, any guano that is high in phosphorus and light in nitrogen will be good. just try to get your NPK around 284.

​

this is a pretty cheap option, i havent used this one but i do have their bat guano.

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Earth-707P-Organic-Fertilizer/dp/B0047COGFW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=NPK+284&qid=1566193863&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

Down to earth organics has some good products too. With most of these you can just top dress and scratch it in the surface and water, you will only need it once a month or so, then watering with your Big Bloom will help add the microbes to break it all down. =D

​

Either way will be watchin your grow! Have a good one.

I water him every. single. morning. and then spray a light mist of Miracle Grow Orchid Spray on the foliage once every week to two weeks. (Not Ideal, granted, but it's what was available at the store at the time.) I also recently purchased a bottle of kelp fertilizer, which I've used twice at 1/2 strength, which I think has attributed to the root growth. The orchid really started taking off when I nestled it in the live moss -- I've read that Den. laevefolium grow damp, nestled in crevices in deep fern/braken/moss, and the mount has a crevice in the wood which I put him in. I've also noticed a new growth peeping out from the tip of a pseudobulb. I'm unsure if this is a new leaf, or a bud(!!). We'll just have to wait and see.

This is my first orchid (and of course I've purchased a few more since then ((because I've found that once you have one orchid you end up having ten orchids seemingly overnight))), and overall I'm very pleased with this little guy's progress. I definitely won't detach the fishing line for a while.

I'm a bit surprised at the speed of growth, since I've read that Den. laevifolium tends to be a slow grower?? You certainly won't find me complaining!

Original post here, to compare growth

Okay, I have made the mistake you are about to make, so I'm going to say right now : DO not make the mistake I made of not taking care of your plants.


In college I attempted to grow 7 plants at once. All of them were female, and all of them were coming along nicely. At the time, I was dirt poor, so my roommate was paying for any expenses of the grow op.

You run a really high chance of your plants dying if you do not take proper care. That means you have to keep soil pH in check, make sure it's getting enough light, and potentially adding nutrients to the water if something goes wrong (Like a nitrogen deficiency).

Cannabis can be produced cheaply, and there are hundreds of guides out there for all sorts of budgets to get your grow right. Refer to GrassCity Forums or 420Magazine Forums for these guides.

When it comes down to it, growing your own plant is like having a child. You have a connection with it, you foster it to go from seed to beautiful plant. There's nothing more disappointing than to watch your baby die before it grows old. So take what I've said to heart and make sure you're taking care of it.

Remember that grow materials are a 1-time purchase for the most part. Sure it sucks to get a pH reader, but it will save you many headaches in the future. Better to get a pH reader and some pH Up, pH down, than to throw away a couple plants from $30 seeds.


Preventive maintenance is huge here. It's much easier to keep the plant going good from the beginning, than to have it hurt and try to fix it after the fact.

Good luck!

That's a pretty neat.

Do you currently have a terrarium, and if so, how much light does it get? My only concern is that type of grass probably likes full sun, so it may need to be by a bright window and/or supplemental lighting to be happy. This can easily roast plants however (especially in smaller closed containers), so make sure it is ventilated or doesn't get too hot.


If you want to know specifically how to set up a terrarium, its pretty easy.

1. In the bottom of a clean tank or container, put an inch or two of small stones/pebbles/coarse gravel for drainage.
   
   
2. Put a layer of horticultural charcoal on next to help with odors and mold.
   
   
3. Add a layer of potting soil (you cant go wrong with the miracle-gro stuff) and put your sod and any other plants in. If your sod is root bound at all, massage it a little to gently pull the roots apart before planting it. Make sure you regularly water your newly transplanted plants, but don't over-water or let too much water build up in the tank.
   
   You don't need any fertilizer, and I like using a dose of Superthrive if it looks like my plants are struggling.
   
   You could also grow the sod in a container within a larger terrarium if you only have a little bit. If you want a baseball theme, you have plenty of creative options (like using a cubs helmet as a container, etc.).

If you want simple, cheap and portable then DWC is the way to go. My DWC lettuce setup was super cheap to build and can be moved around easily, and I've had several very successful lettuce grows with it. I just bought a $15 container store plastic drawer and drilled some holes in it for net pots, and piped in some air for airstones. I used two of these powered by one of these. Medium is rockwool based in clay pebbles housed in standard plastic net pots.

So tallying it all up...
Container - $30 (could probably have found something much cheaper)

Air pump - $16

Air stones - $6 x 2 = $12 (could also have probably gotten away with smaller/cheaper stones)

Net pots = $6 (for a dozen, so that's 9 sites plus 3 to grow replacement seedlings to swap in)

Clay pebbles = $10

Rockwool = $16 (for a sheet that will last you through many harvests)

Lettuce seeds = $2

Grand total = $86 for absolutely everything needed (assuming you're using sunlight) you need to grow.

There's a few places I noted where you could probably buy cheaper than I did, so You could probably do the whole thing for under $70.

In terms of tools for assembly you will need a dremel or something similar to cut the holes, since the plastic is pretty tough. I suppose you could manage with some very heavy duty shears, but it would probably be a nightmare to cut by hand. And a drill for the air hose holes. Some black spray paint to keep down algae growth in the water supply would be good too.

Can't speak to climate, but leafy greens are pretty hearty and have continued to thrive during a few very high temp days here, so I suspect they'd do fine in Florida temps.

check out my grow, I am doing a similar thing this year with the 20 20 20 and received fantastic results. This is my second year growing, and my advice is don't over think things but keep your plant tidy at the same time. Keep the bottom pruned to keep the surface area down making it harder for bugs to get on the plants, for example cut the fan leaves off that are shooting off the bottoms of the bottom branches. I do all my pruning with my fingers and finger nails, it doesn't hurt the plant to prune like that, they are tough. Prune the lowest bud sites by the trunk as those receive less light, some fan leaves that completely block bud sites, and if you are growing clones you might get some weird genetics and end up with excessive bud sites around the main stalk which can be thinned out. IMO you don't need to go overboard on pruning bud sites as popcorn bud is an added bonus cause you still get beefy buds up top either way. I used 1/4 tsp 202020 per gallon every other watering, but much less often now as I am using some top soil long release organic stuff containing sea bird guano. I am going to use Dr. earth for flower. I hope this helps! happy growing! I would definitely like to see more info about your grow and some pictures.

Depending on the PH of your water, you might only need a little bit of PH Down Solution (an acid) and some sort of nutrient solution. The nutrient solution that worked best for me when I was doing lettuce was the DynaGro Grow. One step, no mixing A B and C.

Amazon Link

I bought a gallon of PH Down from my local hydro shop, with their logo and everything, it was like 10 bucks for a gallon. I still have 3/4 left after almost 2 years. You could just use this one in case you really need to. I found out that DynaGro lowers the PH at an Ideal level.

You should have a PH probe and a TDS probe. They make some cheap ones like these two. You might need to calibrate them often, so you need this and this

I use This to measure my nutrients. You can get the same one at walmart for 10 bucks. But you have to go to walmart, and that to me is not worth the savings.

Try to find the "Recipe" you need for your reservoir. I calculate my towers have about 20 gallons of water up to the hole where the wire from the pump comes out of. Once you have everything measured write it down somewhere and take notes. I do a full reservoir change at the end of every crop. Lettuce wont grow again once you harvest it. Make sure you clean your tower really well to avoid salt buildup.

I get my seeds from http://www.johnnyseeds.com/

I've had great success with [this one] (http://www.johnnyseeds.com/vegetables/lettuce/romaine-lettuce-cos/sparx-lettuce-seed-3156.html) and This one

You can also use your own Rockwool and make sure you get one of These.

I have something very similar to this but I can't find the exact one. You start your seedlings with that.

Let me know if you wanna go deeper down the rabbit hole. Sorry for the wall of text. And also, sorry about your wallet.

Good luck!

Might be helpful if you post a few pics of your setup.
1: 18-24 inches. make sure you have good airflow over plants to minimize tip burn. Us a small fan if you can.
2: If you are only growing lettuce and harvest fast enough, you should be fine. The distance between plants is more important since lettuce will take up at least 8-10 inches per plant.
3: I have great luck with these rock wool cubes that drop right into 2 inch net pots after they germinate and send roots out (10 days or so) :
http://www.amazon.com/Grodan-A-OK-Starter-Plugs-Sheet/dp/B00168EO48

have fun

Tent: TopoGrow 2-in-1 Indoor Grow Tent 108"X48"X80"

Lights: Three of these: MARS HYDRO 960w, apparently they just came out with a 2nd version of these at 900w, so here's that link

Soil:Fox Farm FX14054 Happy Frog Potting Soil

Pots:Fabric Pots
Humidifier:3.5G humidifier

Fan: basic large oscilating fan

Exhaust:AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6
CO2 Bag: Exhale 365

Fertilizers: Technaflora Recipe for Success Starter Kit
Timers: Basic ones

Basil Seeds: because basil is fucking delicious

let me know if you all see anything extra i need or anything you think i could improve on!

Thanks again for the help!

I just switched to 12/12 from 24/0, started the flowering formula for the nutrients, and switched on the "bloom" light on the lights.

I make my own mix, all from items found in Amazon! Everyone has their preference, and it all really depends on where you are located as far as humidity and how much rain you get. I live in San Diego, and most of my plants are outside and in containers. My plants are happiest with the following mix of equal parts:

• Pumice - It absorbs excess moisture so roots don’t rot in wet weather, aerates the soil, and releases moisture slowly, and at a steady rate.
  
  
• Coconut Coir - Has both high water-holding capacity and simultaneously retains plenty of air. This means that it’s nearly impossible to overwater most plants during their growing season – you simply cannot suffocate the roots. It also is a gnat detterent!
  
  I also like to add a layer to the bottom of my pots of:
  
  
• Charcoal (helps with removing impurities)
  
  'Hope that helps!! I feel like soil is really what makes or breaks succulents health, so making it as fast-draining as possible is key! With this mix, in the summer, I nearly have to water my babies daily to keep them from getting thirsty due to the excellent drainage :D

You don't need more substrate, but root tabs would be beneficial. They're just little round things about the size of popcorn that you push down into the substrate you already have. You also need to start dosing with a complete liquid fertilizer. I've been having great success with these. And they will last you a LONG time. The Flourish that you're using is just micronutrients, so the plants are lacking the macro elements (especially nitrogen) that would be present in a cycled tank. Also, anubias doesn't like a shit ton of light. If it's still alive, you might wanna move it somewhere that is shaded either by some decor or something. And don't forget that you mustn't bury the rhizome of the anubias plant. It needs to stay above the sand, and just have the roots underground.

Hey! You can build your bucket in whatever way you would like. I suggest you check out spacebuckets.com for build ideas from others. There are so many ways to build and whatever suits your needs will be best to build for yourself. :)

The container adjust could work, but you'll need to make sure that it is all secure so it doesn't tip or fall over or anything.

1. You need to buy ph up and ph down. This can be found in the hydroponics section of any good plant store. Something like this
   
   
   
2. It depends on whether you're in veggie or flower mode, but usually anywhere from 3-4 days. Maybe 5 days max, so yea you'll need someone to water them for sure if its more than 5 days.

I, too, live the apartment life. To save on space, I buy compressed coco coir (a soil "fluffer" as I like to call it) that will expand up to 10-15x it's original size once you add water to it, plus it's not too expensive. This is the exact one I use, but there are cheaper options. I like to break of what I need from the brick instead of expanding the entire thing at once. Coco coir has little to no nutrients, but when mixed with perlite (also cheap) will give you an excellent loamy soil consistency/drainage. You could then amend it with some compost to add nutrients (I like to use mushroom compost) and you'll be set. Plus, instead of buying and storing big bags of fertilizer, you can make compost tea from the same bag of compost you used to amend the coco/perlite mix. All of these items will fit in a large plastic bin, which you can also use as a "table" to put your potted plants on when you're not actively mixing your soil. This is just one option I thought of, but I'm sure you could make it work!

I have 3 plants all in the same tent and started at the same time. Its our first grow so all three have ended up being completely different sizes and our middle sized one has begun to develop dark spots and drop leaves. They are only 4 weeks into flowering right now. Our biggest plant also has a few dark spots on a couple leaves but nothing serious yet.

It started showing up about a week ago and originally we thought it may be a nutrient deficiency as I realized the nutrients we were using were acutally part of a 3 part system. ( https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07CQSBJ3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P.cYCbWKQF7F8 ) We recieved the other two parts of the nutrient last week and I have given them nutrients twice since. The last time being yesterday with no noticeable improvements.

Should I continue on and hope for the best? What can I try to help her? Any suggestions welcome!

> i basically just need a light and thats it? if i want to grow autoflower only

oh boi... alright here we go.

youll need duct fans for both ventilation and heat dissipation, especially if you go with HPS/MH lights 600/1000watts will require reflectors with ducting so you can connect to it. This will need to exhaust out of your tent. Then you will need a intake fan coming preferably from outside. Youll most likely also need a Carbon filter attached in series to your exhaust fan. Your light will have a ballast as well, which creates a good amount of heat so plan for that to be located outside your tent. Youll also need smaller fans in the corners so you can keep a good air circulation going (hurricane fans are great). Also consider using T5 lights when starting your seeds off as your higher wattage lights are not good for seedlings. Also get a few supplies like gorilla tape and duct clamps and anything else you might need to secure everything together.

When it comes to growing, even if you are only doing autos youll need smart pots, fertilizer, promix HP, perlite plus both vegging and flowering nutrients. Have access to PH up and down solution, and also get a Ph Pen + PPM meter (TDS).

Ive only linked amazon, there are probably other local options for you.

Hello! fish fertilizers like this are super gentle but not balanced (5-1-1). I use this all winter long IF i see my plant has not stopped growing! Usually the Philodendron hederaceum, scindapsus pictus and Epipremnum aureum get a very diluted dose of fish fertilizer or organic balanced fertilizer. Just figure out what works for your plant and speak it's language. If you see it's growing during the winter but leaves are smaller than usual... this might be a sign you plant needs food. happy growing :)

ExHale - Homegrown CO2 for your indoor plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00546SAZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UTYNBbGQQDEFN

Using something like this in my tent but I have 9 plants. Could try to look for something smaller. I read that in the list of most important things plants needs c02 is on a lot of ppls top 5. Exactly where on the list is just debate and bro science but the fact it helps is undisputed. Good luck!

This is a good one too.

Weird why Amazon would not ship.
Some walmarts carry the Espoma line of organics, so check Walmart.

Absolutely, just the fiber along cleans up your gutt. I hated the taste initially, but so used to it now, its now part of the taste palette.

I went full vegetarian, about 3 years ago, cholesterol is down, blood pressure under control, sugar levels are normal, lost 40+ lbs, more importantly I sleep a lot better. So glad to have a 8hr sleep. I wont say it was just Ashitaba, but it certainly boosted my confidence and changed my view on food.

What are your goals with this? To provide CO2 or make editable mushrooms. I would go with Oyster mushrooms for your first run. They are much more forgiving, and as you stated Shiitake take months to colonize, while oysters take weeks.

Here is a product for what you are talking about:
http://www.amazon.com/ExHale-Homegrown-your-indoor-plants/dp/B00546SAZC

I would assume it creates as much C02 as breathing on your plants all day.


Ok, for 2 pounds of substrate you would need maybe a half a gallon or so of liquid culture. Substrate is the low nutrition bulk that you grow on, spawn is the start of the process.

I use 3 ml - 10 ml of liquid culture for a quart sized jar of spawn.

Since you have nothing and are invested in growing plants, I would recommend just buying a bag of oyster mushroom grain spawn for about $24.
You can take this spawn and put it onto pasteurized straw (not hay). Toss in some gypsum and hydrated garden lime.
When its all cooled off, mix in your grain spawn. I use 3 quarts of spawn for a 5 gallon bucket.

Stuff the straw into a laundry basket or a 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled in the sides.

Here is a tek about it. You can obliviously just use pet bedding instead of straw too :)

Good luck!

Yeah I just said to another guy about how I’ve been meticulously checking each product I’ve chosen and they all seem to cover the nutrients that base nutes use, except instead of adding some A nute and then some B nute (I found A LOT of a/b ones) I’ll be adding a few extra things per gallon, but I’m convinced now that I do need base nutes too. So I’ve found either advanced nutrients ph perfect sensi A/B or this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00GOI3ULI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518058955&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=biobizz&dpPl=1&dpID=51qIqhxEXOL&ref=plSrch

I’ve been hearing good things about biobizz I’m even going to use their soil next time instead of canna (too much wood chip in canna soil

I'm not really sure what you have in it, so its hard to tell by looking LOL. My favorite mix, which I've seen the best results, including pots without drainage holes (I get a lot of requests for terrarium arrangements), is an equal mix of:

1. Pumice
   
2. Charcoal
   
3. Cactus Soil
   
4. Perlite
   
   The grittier, the better!! I don't like sand because I feel like (unless its coarse sand) the sand just soaks up water, instead of draining quickly.

> was ignorant and unaware of how to remedy her issues. But now, I'm back with a vengeance.

theres no nutrients in that mix which is fine for the first 2 weeks. have you thought if you want to go bottle vs organic? you might want to add one or all of these later: kelp meal/, kelp extract(trace minerals), oyster shell (calcium/chitin/), neem meal(integrated pest managment and nitrogen, gypsum (sulfur), dr earths organic fertilizer..
PHEW that was a lot of links. If you had to pick two id go with dr earths fertilizer with the liquid kelp and some quality compost preferrably local but this is good in a pinch.

theres bottle organics with biobizz thats not too expensive. they have a starter pack for $25.

by the way if you are having issues with PH you may or may not want to add a teaspoon or two of dolomite lime. this brings PH up to 7.0 as it is alkaline. this is good for PEAT based mixes as peat is acidic at about 5.5-6.0.

Since we all love videos heres one thing to take a look at

if you want to go bottle fox farms trio is popular or you can use pure blend pro grow/ bloom.

For the implementation can you germinate them in Jiffy Pellets? That way you have consistency in a small package. The down side is if the netting could interfere with initial root development. I leave the netting on and have never had a problem with a wide range of plants.

https://www.amazon.com/Count-Jiffy-Pellets-Seeds-Starting/dp/B000EHJN7K

You can fit 40 small Jiffy Pellets in a 5 gallon bucket. Much more in a 20 gallon tote.

http://imgur.com/a/6zqbj

20 gallon tote:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-20-gal-Tote-2020-0108/202523597

I keep the lights on to help prevent molding. You may want to see the results of germination under etiolation conditions which is the nice thing about the 5 gallon buckets.

For a 5 gallon bucket, use a "40 watt equivalent" white LED bulb. You can cut a hole in the bucket and snug fit a light socket like this below. A "60 watt equivalent" LED bulb gives twice the light if there's stem elongation issues from too low of lighting levels. Also use higher color temperature bulbs.

http://imgur.com/a/9ykG6

Use a LED bulb that says "suitable for damp locations" or something close since the RH is going to be around 90% if you don't have any ventilation going on.

Wrapping the base of the bulb and where the light socket meets the with electrical tape for protection from the energized parts of the inside of the light socket is a good idea. Here's an example of how this tape wrapping looks:

http://imgur.com/a/XLd3c

edit clarification

Beginners mistake, very common. Don't use miracle grow. Use something like the FoxFarms Trio https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Farm-FX14049-Nutrient-Formula/dp/B00572026S

For now you just need Grow Big for veg, when you get to flowering time start feeding it Tiger bloom, the difference between the bottles is the ratio of each nutrient, bloom nutes are higher in P and K while veg is higher in N.

And watering is easy. After you water it, feel how heavy it is. Get a gauge for that, and check it every day as the plant consumes water, eventually it will be as light as it will get and the plant may get to the point of dehydration where the leaves will tuck inward, don't let it get that dry, water a day before that. Soon enough you'll totally get it. Also stick your finger in the top of the soil for about 1-2" down and feel how the dryness changes and use that and weight of the pot.

You may also need a bottle of Calmag at some point https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Sensi-Cal-Mag-250mL/dp/B01D1Y9QAQ

Good to have handy.

You also need to make sure your water PH is in the acceptable range, probably by adding a weak acid to lower the PH https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Liquid-Fertilizer-1-Quart/dp/B00CJID1I4

Also a PH testing kit like this https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics/dp/B000BT32UA

Here's the basics https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/wiki/faq

I've gotten in to growing recently and really enjoy it :) I hop you do too stranger.

I have one wisteria, one amazon sword, and one willow hygro developing a few holes and such in their leaves.

I only have the one sword, but the the other hygro and wisteria plants are doing fine. The tank is cycled with 10ppm of nitrates last time I checked on Thursday and a pH of 8.

The tank is 10 gallons. I've been adding 1/2ml of Flourish Comprehensive every week, a little under 1ml of Excel everyday, and Seachem root tabs for the swords and crypts. Could it be macronutrient deficiency? I've been eyeing the dry mixes from NilocG but don't want to bite the bullet and waste the Comprehensive bottle:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013RW4MNS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494801914&sr=8-3&keywords=NilocG+Aquatics
I'm currently using the light below in a simple fixture sitting on top of the glass cover.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00106R8CQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would I need something stronger for the willow hygro, amazon sword, wisteria, floating water sprite, floating pennywort, crypts, and moneywort?

You can give a small treatment of phosphorus rich fertilizer, or any balanced houseplant fertilizer for that matter and see if it solves the issue. Plants that have leaves starting to turn red like this might be low on phosphorus.

I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/Schultz-Purpose-Liquid-Plant-10-15-10/dp/B018LSGTLG it's a really concentrated formula that'll last you years of use, and it's incredibly easy to use. You should be able to find it at local big box stores like walmart, home depot and others.

Yeah, just as what other people have posted, they are doing good only one of them seems to be struggling a little. get them in some bigger pots and add a few nutes and they should pick up, I'm currently doing my first ever grow this season too (outdoor growing in the uk) and they are doing pretty good.

I got a bio buzz trail pack from amazon, it's decent value as I didn't want to buy gallons of the stuff in case my first attempt wasn't successful. The package enough to support three plants I believe.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00GOI3ULI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498382141&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bio+buzz&dpPl=1&dpID=51qIqhxEXOL&ref=plSrch

Unfortunately I don't have enough experience with this one to know for sure. It's tough to tell in this picture but what are the stems like?

I have this plant, just bought it this year. The nursery sold me this fertilizer for it/my other tropicals. It says you can use it every time but being paranoid I only do it every two weeks. My guys do really like it!

Out of curiosity, can you put it back in its happy place?

Late to the conversation, but after all of the things I've tested, this is the best product, by far. Eco Earth is overpriced garbage. Basically, bags of what's leftover from 'real' cocoa fiber. For most, it doesn't hold humidity well, when it dries it turns incredibly dusty and it grows mold way too easily.

Try this and I think you'll be surprised. I own Suburban Geckos and keep roughly 400 Leopard geckos at any given time. With an operation that size, time and efficiency are paramount, and you learn over time what works and what sucks, with regard to your husbandry. Used Eco Earth for my first couple of seasons as a breeder, and have absolutely not looked back since switching over to this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U1V7NOO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The following nutrient kit would be good for you. It very easy to do and very adaptable to the situation. It even comes with a recipe... for sucess!

I think your lacking a lot of nutrients.


Technaflora Recipe for Success Starter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001XGP32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ut6gyb3P5JB01

I love to use coconut fiber. I use the one in the following link. You add water to it and it expands a LOT. So, this package could last a very long time, depending on how big your enclosure is. One has lasted me many years and I still have some left over.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-CocoTek-Growing-Media/dp/B00U1V7NOO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458871593&sr=8-1&keywords=Cocotek

I then add some orchid bark, and lots of peat moss to the top layer. It could potentially be messy, but it is definitely my favorite substrate mix.

I have had the same issue multiple times with my aero system and my basil plants. It is root rot for sure. Here are the steps that I did to fix and save my plants.

1. Remove the dead roots
   
2. Add this to the water. https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Hydroguard-Bacillus-Inoculant-1-Quart/dp/B00IGFH25M/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1465523716&sr=1-1&keywords=hydrogaurd
   
3. Add an Air stone to the water. Even though the roots are sitting in air adding more oxygen to the water has helped a ton!
   
4. give the plants a few weeks to regrow roots and they will shoot up!
   
   Good luck and I hope that helps

I use Schultz 10-15-10 for my indoor leaf plants. My plants include schefflera, BOP, jade, pachira, ivy, snake, coffee zz, peace lily. They are very happy with it. Just be sure to make the correct ratios.

I forgot the other day when I replied about the H2O2 above; but I have used a product called Hydroguard. I found it on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Hydroguard-Bacillus-Inoculant-1-Quart/dp/B00IGFH25M IIRC I used this in every water change at about 1/2 teaspoon per gallon but be careful that was a while ago. My memory might not be all there! In coconut coir pots I used the same 1/2 teaspoon per gallon in my nutrient solution - that's a measurement I'm sure of.

I would ask here. You should be able get some help there. Its a great site for info in general. Do you know the ph of your water your using is? If the ph is too high
or too low you could be locking out nitrogen which might be why your leaves are yellowing. You can get the drop ph test kit at pet store like petsmart and they'll also have ph up and down but you can find it cheaper online.

As for nutrients MG is fine it will work but start low and gradually increase the amount you feed or you'll burn the plant. If you're looking for something better check out this

I keep seeing posts from a lot of people having great luck with their plants and I want the same for mine.

I set the troughs up using the Square Foot Gardening Technique and they have been doing pretty well. We've been getting Chard, Kale, Green Beans, Snap Peas, a few carrots, and a few beets. Nothing seems to be thriving other than the tomato plants in one of the bins but no fruit yet!

I water regularly but have not fertilized other than last week for the first time and I wasnt sure how much to use. I used one solo cup of each fertilizer and spread the one cup full throughout the three troughs. The tomatos look a little wilted to me but are haning in there and have a few flowers now.

Veggie Fertilizer:http://amzn.com/B001H1LS6G
Tomato Fertilizer: http://amzn.com/B0011UEKKE

Any advice appreciated!

(Picture of my dog included because pets make everything better!)

Pot/Planter

Soil / Perlite mix (70/30)

Nutrients

pH test kit

Lights

Should be around ~$100 and good for 1 medium plant or 2 small plants.

I spent like 30 minutes on that list for y'all newbs. When you could have just gone through the sidebar and/or used the search function. Somebody better upvote me.

this is what I've come up with for my second iteration of the parts list.

| Part Name | Model | Price | Link |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| Grow tent | VIVOSUN Horticulture 48"x48"x80" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Obeservation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 4' x4' | $185.99 | https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01731MNJE/ref=sr_1_7?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1548815676&sr=1-7&keywords=grow+tent |
| Grow Light | VIVOSUN Hydroponic 600 Watt HPS MH Grow Light Bulb Digital Dimmable Ballast Air Cooled Hood Set | $239.95 | https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Digital-Dimmable-Ballast/dp/B00P8P51ZQ/ref=pd_sbs_86_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00P8P51ZQ&pd_rd_r=b5984eae-2511-11e9-9ef7-8b5dde2c9ca4&pd_rd_w=kv8VT&pd_rd_wg=d3xJu&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=G0R27XTT0WWJAAJ27SVQ&psc=1&refRID=G0R27XTT0WWJAAJ27SVQ |
| exhaust System (filter/fan) | VIVOSUN 6 Inch 440 CFM Inline Fan with Speed Controller, 6 Inch Carbon Filter and 8 Feet of Ducting Combo for Grow Tent Ventilation | $208.99 | https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inline-Controller-Ducting-Ventilation/dp/B01NA07G79/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1548908529&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=inline+fan&psc=1 |
| soil | PRO-MIX 42.5L HP Mycorrhizae Growing Mix | $14.99 | https://www.lowes.ca/soil/pro-mix-425l-hp-mycorrhizae-growing-mix_g2826504.html |
| pots | VIVOSUN 5-Pack 5 Gallons Heavy Duty Thickened Nonwoven Fabric Pots Grow Bags with Handles | 18.99 | https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Gallons-Thickened-Nonwoven-Handles/dp/B00TF9E6XE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1548884123&sr=8-6&keywords=fabric+planters |
| temp/humidity sensor | TRIXES Digital LCD Thermometer Temperature Weather Hygrometer Humidity Moisture | $10.29 | https://www.amazon.ca/TRIXES-Thermometer-Temperature-Hygrometer-Humidity/dp/B00KGEAAMI/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1548824626&sr=1-5&keywords=temp+and+humidity+sensor |
| Nutriants | Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect Nutrients, Fertilizer. Bloom, Micro and Grow 1-Liter PACK OF 3 | $66.24 | https://www.amazon.ca/Advanced-Nutrients-Perfect-Fertilizer-1-Liter/dp/B07CQSBJ3K/ref=lp_7760549011_1_1?srs=7760549011&ie=UTF8&qid=1548904821&sr=8-1 |
| Total: | | $745.44 | |

if planting in soil, I like to use jiffy peat pellets.

http://www.amazon.com/Count--Jiffy-Pellets-Seeds-Starting/dp/B000EHJN7K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334178202&sr=8-1

you soak them in water for 5-10 mins, they swell up to the size of an old film canister. Just use a pencil to poke a small hole in the top, drop the seed and GENTLY cover it with soil. You don't want to pack it down, but you don't want light shining on it directly.

I leave them in the jiffy peat pod until I see the roots busting through it (usually about a week or two) and then I just plant it in either the 7" container, or you can plant it in a party cup, then transplant it into a bigger container if you want.

You can plant the seedling directly into soil but make sure the soil is suitable for seedlings - I used fox farm ocean forest exclusively, but some people find that it kills their seedlings because it's too strong.

Alright, awesome thanks man. That's a bit more than I need so I think I'll use this,

http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Footprint-Coconut-Coir-Brick/dp/B004W8BMS0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414981257&sr=8-2&keywords=coco+coir

ATM, this is the plan. Would love more insight if you don't mind.

https://www.amazon.com/Count-Jiffy-Pellets-Seeds-Starting/dp/B000EHJN7K

and put in this with lids
https://www.amazon.com/Durable-Black-Plastic-Growing-Without/dp/B000E7MTUI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1524088888&sr=8-5&keywords=10+Plant+Growing+Trays+%28No


then directly into soil.

We do have rabbit issues and I've read to be sure to protect them from a small age.
General rule here for planting outdoors is mother's day to avoid the last frost.

And we do have a boatload of rabbits so when placing in it's final spot

I've got everything in my amazon cart now for a set up like you are looking for.

I purchased soil amendments from mephisto genetics as well as seeds and will have no need for extra nutrients. Also if you are fine with autos they have a great Black Friday sale going on.
http://mitch386.wixsite.com/mephistogenetics/product-page/35d08695-5331-6aab-5143-8d51f0df1fe1


These are the lights I'm going with, getting two.
Roleadro 300W LED Plant Grow Light Full Spectrum, 2nd Generation Series https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WR4nybSHBEVW8

32x32x63 tent
Giantex Indoor Grow Tent Room Reflective Mylar Hydroponic Non Toxic Clone Hut 6 Size (32''X32''X63'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXK7ICK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2S4nybD1879PC

As far as soil I'm going to use coco coir for one plant and then a organic mix I used for my garden.
Nature's Footprint 650g Coconut Coir Brick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8BMS0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AX4nybG2P84VD

As far as my ventilation fan I have one lying around the house and am using a cold plasma generator to neutralize odors instead of carbon filter.

LIST POST:

 |/u/Dent7777|Shady Angel Investor|Total|Strictly Necessary Costs

--|:--|:--|:--|:--
 |318.366|212.244|530.61|385.44
 |Item|Price|Link|
possible to replace or modify|32G Wheeled Trash Can|20|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
fabric bags also work|Air-Pruning Pot|13.98|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFISHS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Mylar Blankets|6.69|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCYR5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Velcro tape|16.49|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Plant Ties|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Happy Frog Soil|11.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01508YKY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |FoxFarm Trio|33.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Fem Blue Dream Seed|23.68|https://www.seedsupreme.com/blue-dream-feminized-seeds-20604.html|
 |2 Free Fem Seeds|0| | 
 |pH control & testing kit|18.5|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
not strictly necessary (NSN)|Submersible pump|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|2Liter bladder|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWCXWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Clear Tubing|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6W10TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|tubing switch|7.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45TLPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Funnel|10.96|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OKXZL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Humidity & Temp Sensor|12.82|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Rechargeable AAs|13.8|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSN76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Inline Fan|17.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQBFOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Carbon filter|33.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Ducting hose|10.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076S6KHB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |ArcMyn Vent|14.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HH4GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |Axial Fan|11.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Fan Speed controller|17.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6VV6GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
 |HGL 100w|149|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Smart Power Strip|32.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1ZSCYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
may keep for lights, might get rid of it.|Light Timer|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|

water doesn't need to change so often if you are using inocculant to help prevent root rot/buildup(a popular one is hydroguard). i've seen some people go a few months between full changes, only amending the water with more water/nutrients every week by what their ec meter tells them.

The reason to use 1 big reservoir vs using many separate buckets is you can just amend the reservoir and do the mixing there. If you have separate buckets then you will have to test and amend each bucket separately. Or can do a hybrid system like some RDWC setups on youtube.

if you need an idea of everything you want in a single dwc bucket look at the kits and copy their part list. (or maybe just buy a kit to start out with, then when you have more experience you can diy). (there is no water pump in single bucket setups)

Alright, here is everything in my shopping cart. I think this should cover everything I need, basically everything but PH test liquid and up/down haha(already have those):

General Gear:

• Hanging Clips
  
• Timer
  
• Extra Fan
  
• Carbon Scrubber + Fan
  
• Lights
  
• Tent
  
  Nutes/Grow Medium/Container:
  
  
• CalMag
  
• Canna Coco A+B
  
• 2gal Smart Pot
  
• 5gal Smart Pot
  
• Coco Coir Brick
  
• Perlite
  
• 164 feet of Twist Tie to LST
  
  13 items for a total of literally JUST under $400... Subtotal (13 items): $399.47
  
  Am I missing anything else? Oh shit a drip tray, but I guess I can only buy 5 of this one and can't find one of any that look like they would work for cheaper than 5 of these.
  
  
  Subtotal (14 items): $415.46 now... Am I missing anything else? This all look good?
  
  edit - had to make the bullets format right

If you're going to use a different nutrient make sure it's made hydroponic systems, as outdoor fertilizers intended for soil don't typically have the same nutrients or the same ratios. I would also suggest using an ec and ph meter.

I use Fox Farms range of nutrients. The one aerogarden supplies is well balanced though and designed for ease of use.

Add a c02 bag. It’s good for the plants and helps them tolerate higher heats. ExHale - Homegrown CO2 for your indoor plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00546SAZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s1xOBbK0944WW

I love the fox farm trio nute line Fox Farm Liquid Nutrient Trio Soil Formula - Big Bloom, Grow Big, Tiger Bloom Pint Size (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D93NIFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mK8VDb4KPDYD8

I use this stuff in my buckets and haven’t had an issue, I change water once a week and add 2 ml/gallon and it has worked like a charm.

Botanicare HYDROGUARD Bacillus Root Inoculant, 1-Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGFH25M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KO86AbSE2DCDZ

My favorite soil is Fox Farm Potting soil, but you're going to want to add a bit of perlite to it to help with drainage. I don't have a good link for cacti mix, but you could pick up almost anything and mix it with the Fox Farm soil.

edit: fixed links

my cardboard was pretty much soaked completely long before i transferred them outside. I read online and many people say its not the best (stunts growth).

I wanted to use peat pellets which are tiny pellets of soil that expand when you add water then you just pick them up and drop them in the soil when the sprouts are sprouted or peat pots which is basically compressed soil that you fill with more loose soil an the compressed soil loosen over time with water making it easier for the roots to go through. But i didn't use them because i got too excited to plant so i just ate some eggs and used the carton i had :p

No nutes right now. Have the FF bottles, ready to go. Have not fed them - was advised highly against doing that until transplanted. pH 6.4 when checked yesterday. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Mieemclux-Reflector-Triple-Chips-Spectrum-Available/dp/B07SNP22XS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=led+grow+light&qid=1565576938&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=grow+tent&qid=1565576981&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1NE9VWlZWRU5XRDEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5Mzg4NjExVFFNUjlER1NVSTlDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MjU0NTQzRFE0RVE3WjdOUjdBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/Lilly-Miller-100099247-Quart-Fertilizer/dp/B000BX4QGK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=WQYMXKQ4RC54&keywords=alaska+fish+fertilizer&qid=1565577089&s=gateway&sprefix=alaska+fish+f%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/PH-Meter-Automatic-Calibration-Accuracy/dp/B07NYZBYD3/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?keywords=ph+pen&qid=1565577113&s=gateway&sr=8-11-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySTVLNEg3S0dWVE5FJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDg2MzQ2MkI3SDdRUEoySjFFRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTY4Njk3Mkg0MERVWUxEVlg3WiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Hydroponic-pH-Down-Control-Kit/dp/B00TYW6Q58/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=ph+up&qid=1565577139&s=gateway&sr=8-18

that will do what youre looking for. Make sure if you use that fertilizer that you ph your water after you use it because it will tank you PH down to about 4. If someone tells you you have to spend more than $400 to get started they are wrong. You do not need to spend that much. You can ... but you dont have to.

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miricle gro performance organics is like twelve bucks a bag at lowes and is OMRI certified

We use these bottles and just mix the fertilizers to the right concentration. It takes a bit of math to figure it out the first time, but it makes dosing a lot easier. We set our concentration to be 5mL per tank (we have two 15 gallon tanks).

We use different fertilizers than what are sold with this specific set but you get the idea. If you look around, you can buy just the bottles for about $5 each.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013RW4MNS/ref=asc_df_B013RW4MNS5409184/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B013RW4MNS&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242014118596&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17355597956026018280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030257&hvtargid=pla-429537596314

This run I used:

Potting Soil with Earthworm Castings, Pumice and BioChar. So far plants are beautiful with no deficiencies. Fertilizing with Dr. Earth Veg. and Dr. Earth Bloom dry amendments.

Its not soil, for what it's worth, it's coconut shells, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Footprint-650g-Coir-Brick/dp/B004W8BMS0

it's a sterile planting material.

Adding an acid or base to adjust pH via the "change the water" approach is the most common and typically the most tangible solution (huehue) to pH problems. It's also super reliable because you know exactly what's going into your plants' rootzone. The tradeoff is simply that you have to monitor the water's pH. I do this during the winter with my indoor tropicals using a common hydroponics product called "pH down".

But let me throw another thing at you since SFGate mentioned it and you don't seem scared of chemistry.

If you'd prefer to take a more hands-off approach to pH adjustment, you can try elemental sulfur for an immediate adjustment or a Soil Acidifier for an immediate change and long-term effect. Since you won't know to what the pH the water is being adjusted, there's a bit of a learning curve here. That said, a sprinkle of this on top of the soil typically does the trick for my outdoor pots.

I'd avoid Nitric acid at all costs for home use.

Would this soil be good for part of the mixture? http://www.amazon.com/Espoma-PR8-8-Quart-Organic-Perlite/dp/B002Y0AK6S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407433678&sr=8-2&keywords=perlite

For a few bucks less you can get can 2.5x the peat moss on amazon.

Combine with pearlite and for about $10 more you're getting a way better deal.

Light: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Kingbrite-3500K-Samsung-lm301b-Quantum-Board_60804816911.html

Tent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JN8REQC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Output fan, and filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CHC2Z1N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In tent fans. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NFCFSXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pots; (This type, in various sizes) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017DLUTPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soil ( mix with 30% perlite) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VPXSQZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nutes: https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Farm-Liquid-Nutrient-Formula/dp/B00D93NIFY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=267417O1521J2&keywords=fox+farm+nutrients&qid=1570153787&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=fox+f%2Clawngarden%2C188&sr=1-4

If you don't already have plants in the planter, add some sphagnum peat moss and mix into the existing soil well. This will help to lower the pH. Water with slightly more acidic water (pH 5.2-5.5) for the first month. This should also help align the pH. To lower the water pH, you can get some pH down from General Hydro -> https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Liquid-Fertilizer-1-Quart/dp/B00CJID1I4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496967702&sr=8-2&keywords=ph+down

Is that a soil pot in the middle of the grow bed? I'm no expert, but I feel like that could cause you a lot of problems, especially if it has nutrients already in it. Also, doesn't the soil get too wet? You might want to consider germinating your seeds using the paper towel method, and then transferring them to a soil-less option such as rockwool. Then you wouldn't have to worry about cleaning the peat off.

Here's a link for rockwool off of amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Grodan-A-OK-Starter-Plug-Sheet/dp/B00168EO48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395508987&sr=8-1&keywords=rockwool

Here's a shopping list for my current set-up. It's an extra small closet grow, but that's what i have to work with. You don't have to get exactly everything on this list, but you can use this for reference for your own grow!
Ill be running 1 plant at a time for now, with this set up.

Clip On Circulation Fan 6" - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U9V47E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0mcDzb5826MEE

Ventech 440 CFM Exhaust Fan + Carbon Filter

5 Gallon Fabric Pot - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JUOWB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_heETkTRSPOD2a

Programmable Digital Timer Switch - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7RUGVO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_TTN7XnzIpVnyA

pH Calibration Solution - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1MQWK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ahEtLDQTKcR5g

Digital PH Meter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8JU4TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_NarNtEHiZIMNP

130w Cheap-o LED (TEMPORARY) -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MPY7YC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bffmoa2zDlCSm

2x2x4 Grow Tent - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCHXUVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_qa9gCG2RwnFzZ

Seaweed Extract 11% - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCWOEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dIcDzb4SDP9RY

Thermometer/Humidity Meter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_dtVvdguE18m3E

Thank you. I added hydrogaurd to the list

https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-HYDROGUARD-Bacillus-Inoculant-1-Quart/dp/B00IGFH25M/

also added sensizyme to the list

https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Sensizym-Cleanser-Enhancer/dp/B00FDYMRWC/

I honestly don't know how much time I spend with it but i doubt it's much. I check water levels, test it with digital meters, and make any adjustments based on those readings 3 or 4 times a week. I don't really do a "harvest" because we just grab what we need when we need it.

In terms of cost, it can get somewhat expensive if you don't do your homework. For example, buying pre-mixed liquid fertilizer like this is easier to use but you're paying a premium for water and food coloring. You can get water soluble powdered fertilizers and add epson salt, which provides micros. I can't make a recommendation on those yet as I'm still testing various blends. I'm also going to try compost tea soon.

You'll also need a material to start seeds in. Rockwool is the most common but it can get expensive if you're just getting started because you'll likely kill a lot of plants. There are alternatives like coconoir but it is the easiest substance I've found thus far.

Finally, you'll need balancers that you'll use to adjust PH levels. That's something you won't need to buy often though.

Yeah its just organic material that breaks down and releases co2. They're a lot cheaper and less equipment than co2 regulating system.

ExHale - Homegrown CO2 for your indoor plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00546SAZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RCV4BbBZPMMWG

A little goes a long way. Get a smaller bottle. Or use a lemon-works just as well.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Liquid-Fertilizer-1-Quart/dp/B00CJID1I4/ref=asc_df_B00CJID1I4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216531775325&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13977827648917971561&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003173&hvtargid=pla-348348909740&psc=1

That is an interesting idea. There are mushroom bags that produce CO2 for this purpose. The mushrooms are supposed to produce a steadier supply of CO2 than fermentation would. A bucket of sugar water and yeast would be cheaper, but would require more maintenance.

Here's a link on Amazon.
Exhale - Homegrown CO2 for Your Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00546SAZC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_5MhxDb8EMNC82

Don't waste money on a pen. Get General Hydroponics ph test kit. The liquid kind are much more accurate.

Do what he said but buy a digital ph meter and test the ph of your water. Some people have naturally high ph water, some have naturally low ph. You need to test to find out then figure out what you need to adjust ph.

I would also recommend "ph up" or "ph down" for hydroponic applications. http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Up-Down/dp/B005LWS5Q8 Vinegar is fine but not great for plants.

You are gonna have a bad time. If you are not going to use nutrients. You should flip right now to preserve what’s in the soil. Just get the fox farms trio nutrients for 28 bucks on amazon. Feed half strength through the remainder of the grow.


Fox Farm Liquid Nutrient Trio Soil Formula - Big Bloom, Grow Big, Tiger Bloom Pint Size (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D93NIFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NzfiAbMZYSZ2W

I had this happen on my last grow. Turned out to be root rot due to overwatering. Picked up some hydroguard and it cleared it up in about 2 weeks. http://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Hydroguard-Bacillus-Inoculant-1-Quart/dp/B00IGFH25M It only last 6 months so just make it part of your normal feeding schedule. 2ml per gallon from day 1.

It can be used to "stress" more photosynthesis out of the plants.

see this product: https://www.amazon.com/ExHale-Homegrown-your-indoor-plants/dp/B00546SAZC

Would this be good for a few grows for 3 plants? Biobizz NA Try-Pack Indoor Fertilizer, 250ml, 3-Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00GOI3ULI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NP3FDb73EBVZ8

https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Farm-Liquid-Nutrient-Formula/dp/B00D93NIFY/

Get you some Hydroguard

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJID1I4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6NDZCbTT8Y4F0

https://www.htgsupply.com/products/hanna-groline-ph-meter/

Nutrients: Fox Farm Liquid Nutrient Trio Soil Formula - Big Bloom, Grow Big, Tiger Bloom Pint Size (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D93NIFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e2gaCbRFB2TCN

Soil: FoxFarm FX14053 12-Quart Ocean Forest Organic Potting Soil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I49Q98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Z3gaCbYN8BYB4

I believe pH was 6.6 or 6.7

Don't know what EC means

Here! What kind of mushrooms do you grow?!

They sell (overpriced) co2 bags full of mycelium for that purpose. I keep my fungi and fermenting alcohol in my cannabis room just for that.

Amazon link.

there's some 40$ homegrown bags prepackaged, read you can make your own though, haven't tried co2 yet

I do have Dr. Earth Organic 8 Bud & Bloom

I used the Fox Farm Trio with this feeding schedule.

Here.

Just grab the Fox Farm trio https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

pH Up and Down, but I rarely use the pH Down

No, I planted it in a jiffy peat pellet https://www.amazon.com/Count-Jiffy-Pellets-Seeds-Starting/dp/B000EHJN7K. After it opened its starter leaves I transplanted, removing as much of the peat as possible without exposing the root. Put a layer of the bigger rocks on bottom, set her in there and filled the void with little fish tank rocks, finally topped it with another layer of the bigger ones.

I would buy ph up and ph down as well as some hydrion test strips (the ones that run from like 5.5 to 8 not the larger range). Use them to adjust the water after nutes are added, or if not adding nutes just adjust the water by itself (adding nutes to water affects ph so you want to adjust after, not before, adding them).

Your target range for soil should be 6.6.

6.4 or 6.8 is acceptable as well but no higher or lower if possible.

that's a shit price for 3lbs of coco. this GH is 12 lbs and just 4 bucks more. GH coco


one thing, you need to wash this coco. i wash all my coco, as its always saltier than the label says. maybe this expensive stuff is actually well washed. i don't know. i wash all my coco.
and no, don't get fine coco. get regular medium or coarse, but not fine. if i amend soils with coco i'll use fine if i can get it, but i don't like it otherwise.

perlite link

No, you don’t need a pressure cooker. A deep pot with a tight fitting lid will do just fine. You don’t really want to mix strains because different types require different factors for fruiting. a general rule of thumb is to stay consistent

I have about 15 of these guys and all of their leaves are turning gray and crispy, and eventually yellow and die.

It is happening on the lower portion of my big plants too

Also, I used this C02 cultivator and I have a suspicion that the spores that create the C02 may be infecting my plants. Idk though, it could be from other causes

The light scorching is probably due to root rot, the plant just kind of shuts down if its roots aren't working right.

The top part of the aerogarden is actually made of two pieces of plastic. Dead roots can get in-between the two pieces.

I don't think the instructions cover taking the top apart. there are little tabs on the underside that you kind of have to push in with a slotted screwdriver then pry the two pieces apart. I bet if you do that you'll find a bunch of rotten crud in there. I take the whole thing apart (including removing the water pump), wipe everything down with antibacterial wipes then run everything but the water pump through the dishwasher on "sanitize".

Beneficial bacteria (such as Hydroguard) will prevent problems. I can't recommend it enough, just add a bit with every water change. you can also use enzymes (such as Sensizym or the fertilizer Mega Crop) that will break down dead roots so they don't rot. You could also add a supplemental air pump to get more oxygen in the water.

also (sorry if this is obvious) make sure you completely cover any unused holes so that no light can get to the water reservoir.

My advice: stop trying to do G2G from cakes to monotub; everytime I have tried spawning cakes to a monotub, it has resulted in contamination.

I have never worked with Penis Envy before, but I have found I can leave jars, whether they are cakes or grain spawn, for up to a couple weeks after they are done colonizing. I would wait for the other jars to colonize and then spawn them into a monotub all together.

I'm assuming you have just started growing. If you are going to use coir, it's vital to get the brick and not the bag. Here is a link, but I get mine from the local pet store. Pet stores sell the bricks in their reptile section, it's typically used as a bedding for reptiles, but it can also used for growing plants.
http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Footprint-Coconut-Coir-Brick/dp/B004W8BMS0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397229833&sr=8-2&keywords=coir

If this is your VERY FIRST GROW, I would just let you know, Penis Envy can be a more difficult strain to grow. Feel free to experiment but if you don't have experience, sometimes experiments go badly awry with contaminants, and then you have wasted time, wasted effort, and wasted money.
I recommend sticking to a specific tek. I believe it's good to get a couple PF grows done, to get the idea, before investing in a PC and doing a monotub, although a monotub will produce WAY more than cakes, when done correctly.

I have my own method, but this dude's tek is my bible.
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17897163

At the beginning the growth was amazing (I don't know how to compare it) but by the end I'd be fighting root rot that ended up reducing my overall yield to just a couple ounces.

Make sure you keep an eye on your tubing, my tubing was getting strangled by my roots and the air stone would stop working. I also had problems with air pumps dying on me.

It didn't help that I hated cleaning those buckets, it wasn't so bad at first, but when your whole bucket is all roots it's a huge pain the ass.

Others have suggested coco, I did my first grow in coco (in hempy buckets) and I ended up yielding a 1/2 lb per plant. But I had to water it everyday so I stoped doing that.

Also this can help with root rot: hydroguard