Reddit mentions: The best subwoofer cables

Ok. SO, a couple points of note.

• This equipment, especially the subwoofer is VERY VERY undersized for the size of the space that you're talking about. That's a HUGE room. I just want you to know that up front so your hopes aren't too high with this. That said, this is free equipment and you'll probably LOVE it.
  
• That Receiver is/was a very nice receiver for its time, but it is now old and sliiiightly outdated. While the receiver will passthrough 4k resolution, it is not compatible with 4k/60fps, it will not pass through HDR/Dolby Vision/HLG. Again, I doubt this will be a problem for you, but I want to mention it.
  
  With all that out of the way, I will address your questions directly.
  
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  > I have gone to sites like Crutchfield in an attempt to learn what cables I should use, and it seems the most recommended cables would be ones with 14 gauge, and banana ends (I think that’s the term). I have seen spools of 14gau wire on Amazon as well as banana ends that are DIY to put on the wire. Should I pick those up?
  
  
  Amazon. Just get oxygen-free 14-gauge Speaker Wire. Maybe even a 100' spool and a 50' Spool. It's not expensive, and it's great stuff. You can even go cheaper with the AmazonBasics brand. It isn't oxygen free pure copper blah blah blah but It's even cheaper at $16 vs $27 for 100'. Your call, you likely won't hear the difference. But I like the peace of mind for $11
  
  Personally, I really like banana plugs. It makes things SO much easier to hookup, move around, plug and un-plug, and ESPECIALLY really helps organize things in the back of the receiver. After trying several brands, MediaBridge is my absolutely favorite. Very easy to use and very secure. $26 will cover every speaker wire, both into the back of the speaker, and into the back of the receiver.
  
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  > What about the subwoofer? Is there a different type of wire I’ll need for that? Can you buy PolkAudio power cables for that type of woofer? What should I expect to pay for cables?
  
  
  The subwoofer power cable is basically a generic PC power supply cable. Here is one on Amazon for $7 shipped, prime.
  
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  For getting signal to the subwoofer, you need a single RCA male-to-male cable that will go from your receivers LFE pre-out, to the sub. So you'll need to buy a sub signal cable in whatever length you need to get from receiver to wherever you place your sub. In any case they are really affordable. I recommend AmazonBasics yet again. 25' cable for $10 here! They are pretty and very high build quality for the price.
  
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  SO, to summarize you could have this all running for say $60 or so, plus whatever HDMI cables you need :)
  
  
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Receiver: Denon X3300 for $600 (huge sale, actually cheaper than getting a refurb model), it does everything you would likely want.

Subwoofer: Get a pretty good one for now, then spend big (sell this one or go dual) once you move. This one is $605 or this one for $550, unless you want to plug the ports to experience sealed ones in a while, the $550 one may be better actually. There is such a thing as too big for a room, not only will a huge monstrusity like the $1000 Rythmik FVX15 will actually sound bad in that small of a room (sound waves bouncing all other the place, that not even room treatment can really help, as the distance is too close) and the soundwaves will travel to neighbors much more easily.

So, let’s call that $1500 total just to account for miscellaneous stuff like speaker wire, banana plugs, subwoofer cable, any applicable tax for any component here, etc.

So, that leaves $2000 for a 2 towers and 1 center.


There are a lot of options (sorted by price, not that that's an indicator of quality):

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• RBH/Emptek has their clearance sale, you can spend a lot less (30% off) and get some awesome sounding speakers if you don’t mind minor cosmetic imperfections. Here are the towers and center, use the bundle coupon for $70 off, this will total $661 vs the ~$1150 new price tag (can’t buy new, out of stock, maybe discontinued). They get great reviews. I got the bookshkeves for my computer setup, they are great, here are pics of the cosmetic imperfections of mine.
  
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• HTD Level Three towers and center, if you get the more expensive finish, it will total around $1165. I have their old gen bookshkeves and center (no ribbon tweeter or waveguide, got them for cheap off Craigslist), they are fantastic.
  
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• JBL Studio 580’s (on sale) and 235C, these will be decently more music focused. Total cost ~$1180.
  
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• HSU CCB-8 3.0/LCR bookshelves, up to $1400 for the more expensive finish. If you want the HSU sub, you can save a bit by using their bundles (more expensive finish not available via this method.
  
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• Wharfedale Diamond 250 and 220C for $1600 (4 color options), may be more music focused.
  
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• KEF R100 bookshkeves (on sale) and R200C. Total cost ~$1800. If you don't mind white finish and refurb, they can be had for $1600, link to bookshelves and center.
  
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• KEF Q900 new (on sale) with refurb Q600C (if you want the walnut finish, it'll be $50 more, no charge for tower finish). total cost ~$1800-$1850
  
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• B&W 600 684 S2 and HTM61 S2 for $1900, these are heavily music focused, not that dynamic for movies.
  
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• KEF LS50 3.0/LCR bookshelves, the L/R will be refurb with a new center, they are available in a white/blue finish as well, for the same price, link to refurb white/blue L/R (don't come with a free pair of headphones like the black/orange ones). Total cost ~$2000.
  
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  So, you got some debating to do.
  
  Keep in mind some of these may have tax added on based on where you live and which company I linked to (for instance, I live in Florida, so no tax if I get the HTD's from them as they are in Texas (if I was in Texas them there would be tax), the B&W's are only via BestBuy so there will be tax. That's why I accounted for it a bit at the start.
  
  If you need any help about optimally setting up your speakers and sub in terms of placement, let me know.

I drew on your map for the hell of it :P Probably not necessary to do that to give recommendations, but it was fun. Witness!

C9 is a great TV, call it $2k.

I would get two subs. A pair of VTF-2 is fine, but go VTF-3 if you don't want to wonder if you got enough sub. I marked the corners in the image with 1/2/3/4, I'd first try opposing corners and see how that sounds and/or measures. $1150 shipped for the pair of VTF-2, $1750 shipped for the pair of VTF-3. For $600 more you get a pair of 15" subs and no wondering. I say $1750 on the sub category.

I've drawn your setup from the top, so I'll go ahead and tell you what I drew for speakers - it's probably hard to tell from the black rectangles :)

The fronts are a pair of Paradigm Premier 200B bookshelfs on short stands, so they don't look stupid up on that shelf. You might not even need the stands, if the 24" from the shelf gets the tweeters to your ear level. $1k/pair, 20% off right now so $800.

The matching 600C center channel is a BEAST and is also on sale for $800, front stage total $1600. I just can't say enough good things about this lineup, if you have a dealer nearby, go give them a listen.

The surrounds I've shown on swivel mounts turned inwards to face the seating. You can also aim them a bit out into the room for a less direct sound, but I find with modern receivers and decoders, this isn't necessary. I'd suggest a pair of Paradigm Premier 100B, $640 on sale for these, on a set of the sturdy and affordable VideoSecu side clamping mounts, $25.

Tops, again, Paradigm, this time the P65-R in-ceiling speaker. I'm actually suggesting these based on personal use. They are the flattest, best measuring speakers in my system, and never mind the aimable tweeters - these speakers are designed for good, even dispersion, and it's amazing how well they work. Aimable tweeters are there to make up for dispersion and placement shortcomings, and you will have neither if you go with the P-65Rs. Don't pay retail for these, ask the dealer for at least 20% off since you're buying a full set of speakers. If they say no, find another dealer. It's a poorly kept secret that Paradigm very seldom sells for full MSRP. Call it $500 for the pair.

For the receiver, I know people like to suggest buying a refurb from accessories4less, but I've heard too many horror stories about broken equipment and poor support. I'd suggest the X3500h from Crutchfield, a rock solid company that will have your back if anything is wrong with the gear. The receiver itself has plenty of power for my recommended speakers, and has the best version of Audyssey, XT32 - important to get the most out of your subwoofers in particular. The X2600h you mentioned only has Audyssey XT, which is rather inferior to XT 32. $600.

Totals, then, are:

65" LG C9 TV $2000

Paradigm Premier 200B Front L/R $800

Paradigm Premier 600C Center $800

Paradigm Premier 100B Surrounds $665 with mounts

Paradigm Pro P65-R Tops $500

2x Hsu VTF-3 Mk5 Subs $1750

Denon X3500h Receiver $600

Total before cables $7115

($10 subwoofer cables and any decent copper 14 gauge speaker wire are fine)

Now, all that said, I would strongly consider the 77 inch LG C9. You'd still be just under budget, and sitting as far as you will be, the extra size will really help the system come together. The only question is if you have enough vertical space over the center channel speaker. If you do, grab the 77" and don't look back :)

I also disagree on tops/Atmos not being useful if you only do sports and TV. Asides from native Atmos content, receiver upmixing with the Dolby Surround upmixer is really quite awesome. It adds an immersiveness to the sound that you just can't get with a 2d audio setup.

I'm like you, OP. I also am philosophically opposed to spending more on audio than on screen. That being said, good speakers do last for a very long time: if new formats ever come out, you can always upgrade the receiver and you can keep your speakers forever.

I did a lot of searching and I ended up with a good compromise that allowed me to have a LG OLED 65 together with a set of solid speakers.

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Here's what you need to know:

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- The latest OLED TVs are pretty much the same as last year's. LG B7, C7, B8 or C8 are all the same TV pretty much. Get the cheapest you can find. I bought mine on greentoe.com. I offered 1900$ for a 65' B7 this past April and my offer got accepted. You can even try to price match it with your credit card, I think (search in this sub). This may save you a few dollars more. Bottom line is: you should be able to snatch a 65 OLED for ~1500-1900.

- You can order a refurbished sub for a fraction of the price. I have the Denon X1400H that u/robotdinofight recommended, and I also bought it from accessories4less.

- Atmos speakers are mostly marketing BS. There isn't much sound that comes from above you in movies. That Denon is compatible anyway, so you can always add them later. Before you do that, just go watch a movie in Atmos at a theater.

- Sorround speakers are not that important either. Your dialogue is coming from the center speaker, and music etc will be on the front channels, with just some in your sorrounds more for ambiance than anything else. You can go with *very cheap* speakers here. Source: Zeos's guide here. I ended up buying the cheapest speakers Zeos recommended: Micca Covo-s for 40$ the pair (a factor in my decision was also that I had the speaker stands I was using for the cheap Logitech 5.1 PC system I had. Speaker stands are expensive too so factor in that cost too). These speakers are honestly not great: I tried using a pair of ELAC B6 and yes, sorround was much better. But I like HDR and perfect blacks way more than better sorround, so I ended up returning the ELACs and kept the Miccas as my rear. Maybe I'll upgrade some other time.

- If you are like me and have neighbors and a wife who's not into loud explosion, you really don't need a crazy sub. I have the Elac S10 and that's *more* than enough for us, my wife wants me to keep it down. Get a cheap one! Mine was only about 100$. See Zeos's guide here: https://www.reddit.com/comments/5b1u99

- Invest in good fronts. I have the ELAC B6.2 and while I don't think they sound like the crazy expensive speakers that some friends have, they sound *much* better than a soundbar/integrated TV sound and are great for movies! Important: whatever you buy, you must buy a center channel that matches the left/right speakers. I have the ELAC Debut 2.0 C6.2 center, with the ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers as my L/R channels.

- Buy cheap speaker wire and strip it yourself!! I'm so bad with practical stuff that I was a bit intimidated by it, but honestly it's ridiculously simple. The guide that I liked before has a section on wires, read it. The sub has its own cable, remember to buy it (I bought the Amazon one).

- Buy cheap HDMI cables from AmazonBasics.

- I have these stands for my fronts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYV7LQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Compared to u/robotdinofight's guide, you lose some sound quality, but only where it matters least and you should save some 700$, enough money to go from the TCL to a LG OLED. Hope it helped!

For the subs either the SUB1500 or BIC F12 will be great. Whichever you choose is really up to you. The 1500 will have more overhead for larger rooms and open floor plans. When using a receiver, you connect it using a single RCA cable like this.

The Denon is great and I actually brought it up in another thread a day or two ago. Excellent unit for the price, and reasonably future proof.

Speaker wire doesn't really matter. For a short run even the copper clad aluminum stuff like this will be fine. If you want complete peace of mind then this Media Bridge wire is as good as you'd ever need.

For speakers, I'm going to say it's definitely worth it to spend more than the Miccas for a livingroom home theater setup, they would be underwhelming. The Fluance SX6 isn't really a good speaker without significant corrections. So I'd say yes go for the Elac B5 but....for the price range I think that sound signature is too much of a concession for me. The Polk S15 objectively measures better. They can be found used on Amazon and eBay all the time if you want to jump up to the larger S20.

I wanted to give you some links about the cables I recommended as they got "bashed" a bit here which is fine if it's true but I researched them pretty well when I bought them so I went back to take a second look to see if I messed up. I don't believe I did and here's why. Below is a link to Amazon and my specific cables with over 2,900 reviews and a 4.8 out of 5 overall rating. Out of almost 3,000 people who bought them the rating was that high. The other cables suggested to you I also clicked on to maybe get them but I shop on Amazon mostly not vendor specific websites so I can check pricing and look for reviews. There are 0 reviews on the other cable in 50 ft. on Amazon and in AVS forums there is a forum discussing subwoofer specific cable that mentions issues with using 22 awg wire on a long subwoofer run let alone 24 awg . Not trying to tell you to get the cables I linked you to because in the end it doesn't affect me one way or another. Just telling you to look a little deeper before you buy one or the other. "(Good) information is power"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FVYXY0#Ask

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GOBCV0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453978470&sr=8-5&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=knukonceptz+subwoofer+cable

Also a link to AVS forums.com with the specific quote about the guage wire and the run

The only thing that matters is the resistance of the cable and how much voltage drop (signal attenuation) occurs over the length of run from the equipment to the sub (or other speakers). In other words, don't use 22AWG wire for 30ft runs.

Finally a link to this forum and the discussion.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-subwoofers-bass-transducers/1412557-difference-subwoofer-cables-brand-vs-brand-model-vs-model.html

I would write more about it, but I think Roger Russel has written it quite well: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm He used to work at McIntosh Lab many years ago.

For comparison sake these are one of the highest rated subwoofer cables on the market in a 50 foot run ( blue jeans). See which one is the biggest seller below it. Just saying.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005979KVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1453979800&sr=8-8&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=blue+jeans+subwoofer+cable

Monoprice also has a 97% oxygen free copper 50 ft. sub cable that's rated at 18 awg. Much better guage for that long of a run and they are highly touted for it's performance on A.V. forums as well. Another option to choose from and a great value for the money.

http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/2684?maincategoryid=102&categoryid=10236&subcategoryid=1023603&cpncd=

Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).

Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).

For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-6&keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-5&keywords=audio+interface

I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left & right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.

For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472740255&sr=8-3&keywords=subwoofer+cable

As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review

I have been putting together a 5.1 system, and was wondering if you would be able to take a look at it! Maybe something you would recommend other than what is here. This set up is a little more than I wanted to spend, but from what I have read about each piece, it seems to be worth it. Any advice is appreciated!


Denon S500BT


BIC America F12


Micca MB42X Center


Micca MB42X BookShelf


Fluance AVBP2 Surround


A few questions I have:

• Are the Fluance dedicated rear speakers worth the extra 50 bucks over 4 of the Micca bookshelf speakers?
  
  
• Is the Micca center speaker a recommended speaker? I didn't see it listed in the OP, but I found it while searching through amazon, and figured that matching the front two speakers was a good idea.
  
  
• I was also looking into the Denon E300, but I don't see any advantages over the S500BT - any advice?
  
  
• What other things will I need to complete this system? Some speaker cable for sure, do I need a sub cord or any banana plugs? It doesn't look the S500 uses plugs, but I figured I would ask.

If you want to integrate video sources, I would recommend getting a home theater receiver. It will work fine for stereo music and offers a ton of good features.

This is a good choice: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs730h/denon-avr-s730h-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html

Next you need some speakers, I’d get these Infinity R162, it’s a killer price on some great speakers. They will play loud and clear and work well for music and movies: https://www.harmanaudio.com/speakers/R162BK-Z.html

Lastly you need a sub, again Infinity has a great sale on this and i don’t think there’s anything better unless you spend quite a bit more for a RSL speedwoofer: https://www.infinityspeakers.com/reference-series-home/REFERENCE+SUB+R10.html

Speaker cables: Micca Pure Copper Speaker Wire with Gold Plated Banana Plugs, 14AWG, 6 Feet (2 Meter), Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n60mDbHDDC5EV

Speaker stands: Sanus BF24B 24 Inch Speaker Stands (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JQ5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M60mDb568ER14

Subwoofer cable: Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cable (15 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a70mDbDG54CND

Hey /u/ZeosPantera,

I first wanted to say you are the fucking man. This subreddit has been so incredibly helpful in figuring out my audio system. Additionally, I was wondering if you could provide your expertise for me.

My fraternity is currently getting our house back in a few weeks, and we have money to spend on home improvement (in this case, an audio system for the large common room). I'm looking for a system that can double as both a home theater sound system as well as speakers for a large, loud party. I assembled a list of components and was hoping you can recommend any changes. This is the list so far:

Receiver - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7X2OV2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Center - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A8Y3E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Front speakers (tower) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ISZEV2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Rear speakers - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRMKJTQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1WPEQCN6WJKZG

Subwoofer - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A8Y5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

These are the ones you listed as being loud enough to play music on as well. Will these products fit the bill for my needs (home theater, large frat party)? Also, these extras to set up the system:

Banana plugs - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090CVJZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

RCA cable - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVX9FO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB

Copper wire - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APEG9MO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Is there anything I'm missing in order to set up the system? Thank you so much!!

Two mediocre subs are better than 1 good one. I would buy two L12s right off the bat. The F12 is much better than the L12 so if you can do 2 of those then woohoo. SVS subs are a joke now because of servo tech.

Get this http://www.hlabs.com/products/crossovers/index_files/Page384.htm REMEMBER TO ORDER TWO WAY

Get some short Monoprice RCAs (on Amazon)
Remove the jumpers from the pre-outs and main in of your amp.

Pre-out> Harrison Labs > Main in (high pass output) and Subs (Low pass output)

Get some good subwoofer cable too, unlike normal RCA's it makes a difference. https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/subwoofer/index.htm
Or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FVYXY0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465602609&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=subwoofer+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41i%2BDJgkXlL&ref=plSrch

Yep it's a pretty genius invention. Adaptable high pass and low pass. you can more finely tune the low pass on the sub.

What is your budget?

Main Home Theater Surround Sound System:

• In Wall (Kid-friendly) Home Theater Installation - Crutchfield
  
  Home Theater Guides: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • Speaker Placement for Home Theater • TV vertically centered at eye level while seated • r/hometheater
  
  First consider looking for everything used similar to below as a guide.
  
  AV Receiver: 4k HDR HDMI switching plus HEOS WiFi streaming and multi room audio and app remote as well as the Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction EQ speaker optimization. 5 main channels plus a 2nd zone to connect to multi rooms. Also HEOS for wirless multi-room systems.
  
  
• Denon AVR-X1500H $599.99 $299.00. Factory refurbished with a one year Denon warranty.
  
• Denon AVR-X1500H $599.99 $399.00. New with three year Denon warranty.
  
  In-wall Speakers:
  
  
• Parts Express
  
• Accessories 4 Less
  
• HTD
  
• Monoprice
  
  Or on-wall speakers:
  
  
• HTD On-Wall Speakers
  
• CANTON GLE 417.2 5" 2-Way On-Wall LCR.. $499.99 $219.99 each.
  
  Or in-room speakers:
  
  
• Hot Deal: DCM TP160 by MTX Audio $79 pair with DCM MTX TP160C center $89. Check out the review, New budget champ, the DCM TP160S.
  
• Or Infinity Reference R162 $175 with RC252 Center $179.
  
• Or towers: DCM TP260 2-Way by MTX Audio $129 pair or DCM TP260 3-Way by MTX Audio $239 pair or DCM TFE100 Timeframe by MTX Audio $339 pair. Either with DCM MTX TP160C center $89.
  
• Side surrounds: 2 Pack 4" Speakers MTX $59.
  
  Subwoofer: What is your room size?
  
  
• Low budget starter: 15" Dayton Audio SUB-150 $189.
  
• Or look for a better used SVS or HSU or Rythmik or save up for one since they start at $500 or $600 new. Sign up for the SVS sale emails.
  
  Speaker wire: Oxygen Free Pure Copper Speaker Wire or AmazonBasics then 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow. Optionally add banana plugs. Already with banana plugs AmazonBasics buy 3 for the front speakers 2x 12ft and 1x 6 ft. Subwoofer Cable - 15 Feet.
  
  Bookshelf (Misnomer) Speaker Stands: Affordable Dayton Audio SSMB24 or Monoprice Glass. Sturdy 4 column Monolith by Monoprice Speaker Stands or 3 column Pangea Audio LS300 All Steel Speaker Stands can both be filled with lead shot, sand or kitty litter. Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.

I have a pair of these cables and have been happy with them.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVVMS0

​

I don't mind spending a few extra dollars for cables with good build quality that look good. By a few extra dollars I literally mean a few extra dollars to get a nice looking dedicated subwoofer cable vs. whatever RCA cables you have laying around in your junk drawer.

I'm renting and I just recently upgraded to banana plugs. They are great! Mediabridge and Amazon are great resources for this. This is what I use, great quality and price.

Mediabridge Banana Plugs - 12 pair (used in conjunction with surround speaker wire, below)

Mediabridge 12AWG 6FT Speaker Cable with Banana plugs (Front LCR)

Mediabridge 14AWG 100ft speaker wire (surrounds)

Mediabridge 6ft subwoofer RCA cable

It's okay man, you are just starting out and that's all part of getting better sound. Upgrading is my favorite part because then you can really hear the difference!

Just so that I have it right in my head, the back of your subwoofer has an input for speakers? Does it have an LFE port? How many speaker inputs does it have? What this does is bypass the receiver to manage the sound levels to the "mids" and provide an amplifier to them, then the subwoofer connects to the receiver correct?

Your subwoofer has what are called speaker level inputs. It powers the speakers with the subwoofers amplifier. Most newer receivers (like the one you bought) have line level inputs, which are used to run self-powered subwoofers (which is what I'm assuming you have).

You should really connect the speakers you have directly to the receiver and buy a subwoofer cable that has RCA to RCA Connectors and then connect it to the AVR (receiver) to the subwoofer input. It will sound a lot better.

-Edit- (Depends on if your sub has an LFE output from searching the web for "Canton Subwoofer" it doesn't look like it has one, shit. It might though)

The best thing to do is take a picture of the back of the subwoofer and if possible how you have it hooked up to the receiver.

Nice set up all around though!

Well, considering the resounding consensus around your response, I am definitely going with the first option of the Vanatoo zero's with the sub-1000. I also like the JBL LSR-305s, but desk space is limited and the budget would be stretched, but thanks for adding it for consideration.

Also, can I just use this cable to connect the sub to the Vanatoo's sub output? (again, total noob)

Thank you for your help!

Just use a single RCA cable for your sub. I recommend [this one.](Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cable (15 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GS1Syb04D5C47) Your receiver will pull the subwoofer frequency out of the audio information and feed it to your sub, not your tiny bookshelfs. You need to set your front speakers to SMALL on the receiver and the crossover to 120 Htz. This should be done automatically when you set the speakers to small, but just double check. Turn your subwoofers crossover to the highest setting possible, as the receiver is doing the work here. Don't do it twice. Then listen to something, and adjust the sub's volume knob until you can barely hear/feel it. Then you know the volume is correct.

Enjoy!


EDIT: Why are you spending almost twice as much on your sub as you are your speakers? The speakers is where you'll notice the biggest improvement in sound. Start there with your budget, then improve other areas as you see fit. It'd be a shame to see you pay over $300 for a subwoofer and receiver that are fed to $80 speakers.

I thought about that ....lol.

Yes his recommendation was 1 or 2 8' subs. Way too small.

Regarding wiring will this be ok for the sub and for the speakers?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LW0W5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003FVYXY0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB

Do you know the best place that I could try and sell my soundbar other then eBay or craigslist. I would love to get this system going.

Yeah the Insignia cable is very thin. Would this be a better option? Says it is shielded. I'm also wondering if this one would be even better since it has L/R on one end. I'll do an Amazon chat to see what the return policy would be.

Edit: Was told I could return free of charge either or both cables if need be. Guess I'll order both and see how they work.

After several months and hundreds of dollars I think I'm complete!

Turntable:
Kenwood KD-40R. One day I asked my dad if he had a turntable and this is what started it all. We found it in the attic, original box and in great shape. Replaced the needle and I was good to go. (Minus not having anything else, of course)

Speakers:

• Polk TSi 100 Bookshelf Speakers (Ebay, $100)
  
  Sub:
  
  
• Polk PSW10 (Newegg shell shocker, $80)
  
  Stands:
  
  
• Sanus Systems Wood Speaker Stands
  
  Receiver (hidden behind tv):
  
  
• Onkyo TX-NR509 Network Receiver. This thing is freaking awesome. I got it on sale from Amazon for $150. I control it with my phone, stream music from my phone, run the computer/turntable/game consoles through it.
  
  Cables:
  
  
• Dayton Audio SCP-6 6 Feet Speaker Cable Pair with Bananas.
  
  
• Mediabridge Sub Cable
  
  Preamp:
  
  
• Behringer PP400
  
  

First off I wouldn't move the sub back and forth...that's just me. If you get speakers like the ones I linked you won't need a sub in the basement...you just have to set the front/main speakers to large so they get full range signal. That way you're only having to run two speaker wires into the basement.

If you're set on using a sub you don't really need a long sub cable but they make them. I would consider just using the high level inputs on the sub so all you have to use is the speaker selector. I would get a BIC F12 + Some BIC America FH6-LCR for the party room. Run the wires from the speaker selector to the sub then from the sub to the speakers. Of course you can do either option I just think it would be easier to just use the speaker selector to run the whole show.

Very helpful, thanks.

So optimal would be this into the sub and this into the receiver, correct?

Speaker wire for the speakers, digital coaxial or subwoofer cables for the sub.

It looks like binding posts for banana plugs for the speaker connections on the wall plate.

Amazon and monoprice are good places for speaker wire as well.

Banana plugs -5 pairs

Subwoofer Cable -8ft. There are plenty out there for cheap. Just search subwoofer cable.

50ft 14 GA speakerwire. The speaker wire connects to the bananaplugs.

only 10.5 foot W but 20 Long ? Weird..........

SetUp How? Using Full 20" or where will seating be? at 16' and 20' (Against back Wall) or Closer like 10' then 14-15'?

Atmos or just 7.2 surround? I recently did a Budget 5.2.2 Atmos system and Really Dig it. 15' W x 18' L room

https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/comments/cwv89b/budget_atmos_1k_all_micca_522_atmos_system/

My 7.2 suggestions : (Much Like Sharkaminos)

Sony 900f 75"

Onkyo 9.2 or Integra 9.2

R /C /L - DCM Towers or DCM 3 way Towers , DCM Center

Subs : x's 2 PSW312

Surrounds x's 2 Micca MB42X

Surround speaker brackets these or these

X Box

Surround speaker wire

R / C/ L speaker wire: this or this

Sub cables x's 2

HDMIs

TV Mount

Optional Atmos speakers X's 2 or B.A Atmos x's 2

Optional - AV Cart/ cabinet/ shelving

.

Are the Folors carpeted? I'd get system and furniture in and see how Sounds before worrying about room treatments.......... you can Hang Heavy curtains along side Walls like a theater- if Needed

Link says it’s discontinued. Try the amazon basics cables, or monoprice. Good value, high quality. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG/ref=sxin_3_pb?crid=3KSMGRNBVJ54H&keywords=rca+cable&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8GYG&pd_rd_r=3da7e7df-1300-4472-a9df-ef86399f6929&pd_rd_w=IXDw8&pd_rd_wg=5aO8g&pf_rd_p=9f3d6e11-70d1-47bb-b5b9-f5fb86d89458&pf_rd_r=R6QG3NKMCPZXXDADGH47&qid=1573520542&s=electronics&sprefix=rca+c%2Caps%2C223

Unless space is an issue I would spend the extra 20$ on the Dayton SUB-1000 myself. Its a much better sub.

As far as connections go you will need a cable from your source (phone/PC/other) so if you have a digital out on your PC you can run a ToSLink cable from your PC to the SMSL. The Q5 has a subwoofer out which is handy so you would need a single RCA or "Y" adapter for that. And then just speaker cables. I would get predone ones with banana plugs myself.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCQSW3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CYGMCGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is what Im currently using and both work great.

Chances are good the subwoofer will have two inputs, so this cable would be useful to have.

A new subwoofer will come with instructions, but connecting it will look something like this.

It's unlikely Hsu would put his subs on sale. They're what he's known for. You can call and ask him. He answers his own phone, and he's a really nice guy. He might even cut you a deal, if you're buying a sub and bookshelves together. He might not, too. But, hey...might as well ask!

So you're using your phone? If you're using your phone as a source, connecting through bluetooth to your integrated amp or amp/DAC combo, then you won't need anything else. I believe the Elac integrated amp has full bluetooth support. The Emotiva TA-100 has the firmware to support bluetooth, but you have to buy a dongle for it...so, there's another $15 or so.

That should be all you need, though, to get started. There's no end to the money you can spend on audio equipment, once you've decided to develop the habit. But to make music, all you need is something to take the signal from your phone and turn it into an analog signal, something to amplify that analog signal, and something to turn the analog signal into sound.

Oh, you'll need speaker wire. At least 16 gauge...lower numbers mean thicker wire, which means better transmission, generally. But don't go crazy with super-expensive speaker wire. And you'll need a cable to run from your pre-amp out to your subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-16AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU

You'll need 2 of those.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0

You'll need one of those.

You're looking for something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B00KCQSW3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413826946&sr=8-1&keywords=subwoofer+y+cable

Edit: Oops, OP don't listen to me, people below me have explained why.
Just curious then, what should you use for a situation like this, wouldn't you only be getting one "channel" delivered to the subwoofer if you just use either the right or left output?

So I could forgo having to hook up the speakers to the sub and instead use something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZGVMBWB3TDPZXBEGV9JT

And plug that cable into the L or R input and plug the other end in the dedicated sub output on the SMSL Q5 pro output? Or I would still have to plug the speakers into the sub? Or I could just plug them into the amp? Correct?

Don't get a Y cable if you don't need it. 10m is pretty long for a run, you may start picking up interference. Try not to run it parallel to any other power cables. Blue Jeans cable's are supposed to be pretty good if you are okay spending this: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Jeans-Cable-Double-Shielded-Capacitance/dp/B005979JD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498159480&sr=8-1&keywords=10m+rca+subwoofer

If that's too expensive, this cable looks okay but I've never heard of the brand. This is probably what you were already looking at: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Coaxial-Cable-Subwoofer-Audio/dp/B00SMWZ27E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498159480&sr=8-2&keywords=10m+rca+subwoofer

Thanks. Another question:

Do "subwoofer cables" such as this or this give extra benefit or is it just a gimmick? If they do, I guess I need to buy them in pairs right if I use them with Dayton subs from Amp?

Yes, you run the subwoofer pre-out to the line in of the subwoofer using subwoofer cable. What's your current setup and budget for a subwoofer? The PSW10 isn't really a great sub. Something like the Dayton Sub-1200 would be better for not that much more.

> It is possible for you to burn up the inputs on an amplifier if you crank it too much. If it is set as amplifier, it is like any

It's a line level output, I don't think there's anything wrong with the way the speakers are hooked up...

I just want to know if it's fine how it is or if its better to get a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Feet/dp/B00KCQSW3E so it isn't running off just one channel.

You will just need basic speaker wire. Something like this should work just fine: https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY

If going in-wall, you will need CL2: https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Oxygen/dp/B0758CSSF2

If you have electrical wire laying around at home, that will work just fine too. Just use something thicker than 18AWG.

Yes you should be able to wall-mount the speakers - no problem. Try to keep the tweeters at ear level when seated (~40" off the floor). Surrounds can go a bit higher - I wouldn't exceed 1 foot above ear level though. Center channel will likely go on a console or mounted above the TV I assume - just angle it slightly so it fires at ears.

What you described is exactly how it should be connected.

EDIT: You will also need an RCA cable for the subwoofer - https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-25-Feet/dp/B01D5H8HR2/

This may be a good read for you: https://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/basic-home-theater-setup-guide

Thanks guys. Just ordered the top of the line Amazon option.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=zg_bs_598586_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7F438Z1DXARX4SWXNQEA

Thanks for the reply.

Something like this?

How do you tell if the speaker is passive or Powered? Mine are passive from what you've told me, but i'm curious how to identify this in the future.

Should i buy two sets of Crutchfields and one RCA Audio Subwoofer Cable - 15 feet?

I am now a member of r/BudgetAudiophile

Can someone please tell me if this is everything I need? 5.1 setup- JBL Studio 230 speakers front, Fluance XLBP rear, Bic Acoustech PL-200 subwoofer.

Receiver Denon AVR-S500BT- https://usa.denon.com/us/product/hometheater/receivers/avrs500bt

Speaker wire- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWS7HY6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

One of these subwoofer cables? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVX9FO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB&psc=1

And then what do I need to connect the receiver to a computer? So everything can be played off the computer, and then computer connected to a TV.

Well just go to amazon and grab however many CHEAP HDMI cables you will need. (PC, PS3, CableBox) and you will probably need some standard Speaker Wire and possibly a single RCA for the subwoofer.

You might also want to look into some speaker brackets to mount the energy set to the walls.

Most subwoofers use RCA cables like the yellow, white, and red to the left. They sell dedicated subwoofer cables that are just high quality RCA: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1464116082&sr=1-1

Yupp! On the back of the amp there is a plug that says "SW". That's for the subwoofer. The subwoofer has two options. You can use both the red and the white inputs with a cable like this, or, you can just go into the one labeled "LFE" with this cable here. For the speakers, some of this cable will go into the back of the speakers and the amplifier.

Does that help?

>Also it came with no cables to connect each speaker to each other and to he receiver. Any specific reason why that is?

Normally only home theater in a box units that come packaged with a BluRay/DVD/receiver come with wire. Even then its crap.

>..what is a good receiver for my surround sound set and what kind of cabling do I need exactly?

You can probably get something like the Denon 1613 should power them fine and has a few cool features if you connect it to your network. As far as the cables go: some 16 gauge speaker wire will do the trick for the speakers. The subwoofer will need a subwoofer RCA cable.

Gotta buy the cable. Also you have to do two super easy mods to the PSW10 to make it usable (the port noise is insane otherwise). First put a sock in the port. Next if you gotta remove the metal guard off the back of the port.
Here's youtube vid on for taking off that guard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKsMdcjh8KM
Also the cable... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCQSW3E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s04

I would just run this from the subwoofer pre-out on the Pioneer into Source A left and right on the subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Feet/dp/B00KCQSW3E/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510648960&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+splitter+1+male+to+2+male

Hook up the speakers as you normally would to the Pioneer.

You probably need to go into the settings to get a full time signal to the subwoofer instead of just for surround sound.

Run the MCACC room correction process using the microphone that came with the Pioneer to get the best out of the speakers.

I have m-audio bx5, Fiio E10, RCA Female jack to 1/4" and Subwoofer Cable ...my speaker doesnt use speaker wire and some subwoofers doesnt have RCA out... how should i connect this to the sub..?

I currently dont have specific sub woofer in mind...but going to get in distant future.. (maybe Dayton Audio SUB-1000?)

Thanks.

Ok so here's my list of stuff. Please tell me if I'm off on anything.

Speaker wire

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-G-2-bulk-speaker-cable/dp/B000F1X6GE

Subwoofer cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003P63SP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1504795218&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+cable

Fishing tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0026TBOU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504795375&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fish+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=415cJ-VZ12L&ref=plSrch

I've already got the rear speakers, subwoofer and mounts.

I want to connect my Klipsch r15pm's to my subwoofer. What cable would I use? Would this do the trick? Cheers.

Any audio cable with an RCA connector on each end will work. There are specialized "subwoofer cables" like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVYXY0?keywords=subwoofer%20cable&qid=1452159685&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

The only difference between these and regular RCA connector audio cables is that these "subwoofer cables" is that the subwoofer cables have some extra shielding, which is nice if your subwoofer cable is going to be on the floor with a mess of other cables. Generally worth paying a few extra bucks for IMHO, still shouldn't cost more than $10-$15.

Wire: Monoprice 50-Feet 16AWG High-Purity Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UNLTVK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yiZ4xbPFN3DEV

Banana clips: Sewell Direct SW-29863-6 Deadbolt 6-Pairs Banana Plugs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QUYQSY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gjZ4xbW9EPEGF

Sub cable: Mediabridge ULTRA Series Subwoofer Cable (8 Feet) - Dual Shielded with Gold Plated RCA to RCA Connectors - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FW0WIK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_JhZ4xbJVDQ6N3

Yeah should work fine. You'll need an RCA cable running from the sub out of your receiver to the mono in on the subwoofer. Then just wire your speakers into the receiver with speaker wire / bananas. No real special cable is needed, just grab a single RCA that'll reach.

You will need HDMI cables to connect your sources (Xbox, AppleTV, etc...) to your Receiver. Another HDMI cable out from your Receiver and into your TV. And speaker wire to connect your speakers to your receiver. You will need wire strippers.. And an RCA coax cable to connect your sub to receiver

EDIT: Since it sounds like you're a beginner with setting up AV equipment, read through your TV and Receiver owner's manuals. There should be diagrams and hookup instructions.

I'm a little confused if you're saying $500 for speakers alone, or the set up. Heres a list I put together for a friend who had the same budget. Hope this helps.

($200) http://amzn.com/B00B981F38
($10) http://amzn.com/B006LW0W5Y
($12) http://amzn.com/B005EZTUMU
($130) http://amzn.com/B00067OS0A
($130) http://amzn.com/B004LRPXAU

Edit: If you go this route, don't forget these.

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Y-Adapter-Inches/dp/B004EBX5GW/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HP63MCWR61GRJ58Y5BY

So on the back of your receiver, as seen here , where I highlighted the RCA outputs, you have the subwoofer RCA output on the back of the receiver.

You'll have the same RCA inputs in the subwoofer, you take a single RCA cable from the receiver and plug it into the white/LFE RCA on the back of the subwoofer.

You DO NOT need to plug in both RCA ports on the subwoofer.

​

EDIT: if you want, spend the $8 and get a dedicated subwoofer cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8G3W/ref=twister_B07GB3SVRD instead of using a L/R audio RCA cable.

Hello, I need a little help. I need two RCA Cable for my JBL LSR305 Speakers that I recently bought. Will either of these Cable Works for Connecting an External DAC/AMP with RCA Out to dbx GoRack? One is Label as Digital Audio Coaxial Cable w/ RCA to RCA Gold-Plated Connectors & The Other is Label as Subwoofer Cable w/ RCA to RCA Gold-Plated Connectors.

You'll need to get one. They don't include them because they couldn't guess a length right for everyone and it saves them money. Here is one I have, I found out about monoprice after the fact and their prices are better.

That Denton actually has two sub outputs. Denon S510BT

The sub outputs are in the top rear section. You can connect your sub with a cable like this

I set up a previous version of this AVR for my mom when her Yamaha stopped playing nicely with her new TV. No complaints!

The single (purple) end goes into the receiver. The other end goes into the subwoofer. For the subwoofer, you can either use that cable and plug both into the subwoofer's left and right inputs, or use this and plug the single plug into the subwoofer's LFE input. Either way works. Some subwoofers are easier to come out of standby when both left and right inputs are connected. I use the one you mentioned.

The two outputs on the receiver are for connecting 2 separate subwoofers. Do NOT use both of those to go into 1 subwoofer.

Possibly a plain ole subwoofer cable like this if your receiver has the same type of subwoofer output.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_598586_1&pf_rd_p=c8bdcc85-7d25-51c7-8c05-2e52abbb5167&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=598586&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=XRTQ905PQWWBMJYS88RJ&pf_rd_r=XRTQ905PQWWBMJYS88RJ&pf_rd_p=c8bdcc85-7d25-51c7-8c05-2e52abbb5167

Just use something like this

AV Receiver ($140): https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs530bt/denon-avr-s530bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

Left and Right Channels ($99): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2LG

Center Channel ($99): https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-C22-Designed-Channel-Speaker/dp/B008NCD2EI/

Subwoofer ($120): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHAZZ4

Speaker Wire ($12): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/

Subwoofer cable ($9): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG/

High Speed HDMI Cables ($7, as many as you need): https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Ultra-Speed/dp/B074VBWPMZ/

The reason I recommend those specific HDMI cables is because I've never had any issues with Monoprice certified HDMI cables being able to properly transmit a 4K HDR signal.

If you are connecting to an audio video receiver that has a subwoofer out, just need a mono subwoofer cable like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-25-Feet/dp/B01D5H8HR2/ref=sr_1_3 Connect it to the input market LFE on the sub.

You need this https://www.lowes.com/pd/RCA-Black-3-Wire-Plug/3701834 hooked to the subwoofer spot on your Pre-Out section on your amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG something like these going from the 2 female ends on the splitter from the subwoofer pre out to each of the subwoofer IN on each speaker.

Then disconnect the jumper so only the speaker wire goes to the SPEAKER red and black on the speakers.

I don't think that's what they recommend doing over at /r/cordcutters/

This will get you back up and running: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0

I need help setting up my new setup, I"m a complete beginner to this so bear with me!

I bought the Klipsch R-15PM speakers, hooked it up to my computer via USB. That's working fine.

Then I bought the Pioneer SW-8MK2 subwoofer to hook up to the R-15PM. I bought the 1 male to 1 male RCA cable and connected it to the subwoofer out of the Klipsch and the L input of the Pioneer and it doesn't work.

Do I really need a Y-splitter for the RCA cable? The Klipsch has a built-in receiver, if I read correctly, so I don't think I need an external one. What should I do? Did I connect it wrong?

Huh, yeah that really isn't too bad.

You are going to want something like this. This is only to illustrate the type of RCA cable and splitter that you will need. I am not recommending this particular cable, not that there's anything wrong with it. Obviously you will want a RCA cable long enough to accommodate your subwoofer position in relation to your revceiver. Then you need the Y-cable to make the connection to your subwoofer.

You will connect one end of the RCA to your subwoofer pre-out (located just below the antenna section on the back of your receiver..black connection with white box next to it) then on the other end you will insert the cable into the Y-cable female input then the two male plugs go into the R/L RCA inputs (red/white inputs on the top left). Doesn't matter which goes into connector from the Y goes into right or left on the sub.

Here are also some options for cables and a splitter.

Page 34 of the manual here shows how you should connect it.

You'll want to use an RCA cable like this between the SW Pre Out and the Low Level Input on the subwoofer.

When it's all connected you'll probably want to run Audyssey to setup the system. Set the PDR-10 cutoff frequency to 150Hz and the level to 10 o'clock before doing this though.

This may seem like a dumb question. But I purchased a sub cable on Amazon does this one require 2 or the RCA style cables such as this one I purchased? Forgive me I'm very new to all of this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041OOF4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iRVyDbZF1RQEX

Its a passive line from receiver to amp. This one specifically

Dang, I didn't even know about those. I got whatever was on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVX9FO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And AmazonBasics 16 gauge speaker wire.

Of course, you can buy the wires longer or shorter depending on your needs. And the brand doesn’t really matter.

This kind of cable for receiver -> speakers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHcACb67FBW98

This for receiver-> subwoofer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8GYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sIcACbEKE23WA

You will need to hook a music/sound source to the receiver. It’s up to you how you want to do that.

Pre-out -> rca y-adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Feet/dp/B00KCQSW3E?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2)

Then convert it again from banana plug to rca on the other end. It's not that hard. Weird setup though.

Yup.You have a subwoofer preout.

You will want one of these.Doesnt have to be this particular brand,just the same cable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCQSW3E/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/190-6459732-9637742?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=15DJ9V2CN0DGMRSH62X8&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_i=B004EBX5GW

Refurbished Yamaha RX-V473B 5.1 Receiver $299.95 (Free Shipping)

Monoprice Premium 5.1-Ch Home Theater System ~$270.00 w/ shipping

Monoprice speaker stand pair $15.01 (included shipping above)

100ft AmazonBasics 16-gauge speaker wire $9.43

15ft RCA Cable $9.99


Total = $604.38

If I grab the BIC America F12 will I need anything other than this to connect the F12 to my A2+'s?

Here is the manual
It says to use Y cable if you choose to connect to the sub pre out.

Get this or something similar. It is an RCA subwoofer cable. It goes from the sub (pre out) on the receiver, to the sub in on the subwoofer.

AmazonBasics Subwoofer Cable - 15 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8GYG/

Is an example.

You can do that (with a sub-woofer cable) or connect your left and right speaker outputs to the high level inputs on the sub and connect the Miccas to the high level out. Either should work.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG

https://www.pyleusa.com/catalog/product/view/id/5929/s/12-gauge-100-ft-spool-of-high-quality-speaker-zip-wire/

https://www.pyleusa.com/14-gauge-100-ft-spool-of-high-quality-speaker-zip-wire-colors-may-vary.html

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-50-Feet/dp/B01D5H8J7U

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC

Would I be able to connect my subwoofer to my receiver using this cable connected from the the "Subwoofer pre-out" on the receiver to the RCA input on the subwoofer?

One could simply connect RCA directly from the speakers to the sub, but my powered monitors don't have an RCA connection, which is why I'm so confused.

I currently have a Marantz NR1403 receiver with two ELAC B6 Debut speakers. I'm looking to add an ELAC S10 Debut subwoofer and an ELAC C5 Debut center speaker. My two questions are this: will the receiver supply enough power for all of this and is this type of cable the correct cable for connecting the sub to the receiver?

I ordered this subwoofer cable.

I'm trying to figure out if the LFE input on the subwoofer is the one I would use.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KCQSW3E/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1

This one if you can afford it: Denon 1400H

This one if your $1000 total budget is an absolute limit for hardware: Yamaha RX-V383

You will also need speaker wire and a Subwoofer cable

Miami 33013, I actually bought the last roll of 100ft speaker wire. Nah it's fine I can be patient. We just really wanted to use it after spending so much, now it's going to mock us a little.

Going to order it on Amazon, not sure if it's great but its #1 seller and average 5 star review after 3k so I don't think I can go wrong. It's white so it can hide a little before I get some corner wall floor covers (what are these things called?) or better yet through the wall. If there is another one on Amazon let me know, I haven't ordered yet.

Wouldn't I want a single cable instead of a splitter?

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0

This is the back of the subwoofer I'm planning to get.

https://i.imgur.com/nB81B6H.jpg

So it has a single LFE input, and then standard L/Rs next to it....if I get a single cable going from Transparent Zero's LFE output to that single LFE input, will it carry both L/R channels?

Yes, but I doubt a single layer of shielding tape would turn this into this.

Sorry, please excuse my incompetence. So I understand I put the cable into the sub out jack on the inclines. I plug the other end to one of the white/red RCA sockets? Does it matter which one I plug it into?

This is the cable I bought already: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DL5N2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That turntable already has speakers built-in. If you're going for "cheap. Not looking for great sound." why don't you just use those? Are you looking for an upgrade from the built-ins?

u/stolen_me_mes isn't correct. You don't need a preamp: the record player has a 3.5mm output, which by convention should already be "line level." Pre-amps take the very quiet "Phono" output of normal turntables and amplify it to "Line Level." Amplifiers expect a "Line Level" input. In your case the turntable already should output Line level.

You do need an amplifier to power your speakers. This one has a 3.5mm input that you can connect directly to your turntable with a headphone cable.

You will need 2 sets of speaker cables: one for each speaker. Get a cable that's long enough to go between your amplifier and the speakers. You can buy the cheapest cable available, as long as it's long enough.

10 ft monoprice

15 ft. Note: You will need to buy two of this particular item for your speakers. They are a bit deceptive in how they describe their product.

Hi all -- long time lurker, first time poster.

Anyway, I'm looking for tech help regarding connecting my subwoofer to my speakers.

I have a Pioneer SW-8MK2 Andrew Jones Designed 100-Watt powered subwoofer.

I have Klipsch R-15PM Powered Monitor speakers.

Both are individually powered (obviously). To connect speakers to subwoofer, therefore, I just need an RCA cable. There's a single RCA input specifically labeled for connection to a subwoofer located on the back of the right Klipsch speaker.

Now, here's the slightly odd part. Instead of having a single RCA input on the subwoofer, the subwoofer instead has L and R dual red/white RCA inputs.

After reading extensively on how to connect this (read: booklet that came with subwoofer and internet) I discovered that it's perfectly fine -- and expected -- to use a single RCA cable, plug into the Klipsch subwoofer RCA input and then connect just into the "L" / white RCA input on the subwoofer.

So, I bought this RCA cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FVYXY0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and tried connecting the subwoofer to the speakers. Subwoofer clearly turns on, speakers work fine but subwoofer isn't 'firing.' I tried turning volume on subwoofer up, and increasing the frequency to no avail.

Here's the frustrating part: in attempting to resolve the problem, I found myself pushing the RCA cable harder into the "L" / white input and ... the subwoofer STARTED WORKING! However, as soon as I released the additional pressure pushing the RCA cable into the "L" / white input, the subwoofer loses the 'connection,' and fails to continue emitting sound.

So, I figured that it was the cable's design preventing the RCA cable from completely getting a secure connection... so I ordered this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI89EZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I hook it up and it seems that the cable is able to go further into the subwoofer input this time, but, no dice, same thing happens, connect them normally, no subwoofer, but if I go and push the L OR R input on the subwoofer harder and subwoofer works.

Is there something particularly funky about this subwoofer that requires a VERY specific RCA cable to work properly? Or is it that the RCA inputs on the subwoofer are defective? Should I return the subwoofer, or does someone have this subwoofer and know of an RCA cable that works?

Thanks for reading this and taking your time to help a newbie.

Okay, So this is the exact subwoofer cable im using and here is a pic of it plugged into the sub (Snugly) but its all loose in the sub out on the amp! Its obviously not an RCA adapter but its loose as hell.

http://imgur.com/a/GJbcR