(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best telescope photo adapters

First thing first - before considering a new camera for astrophotography, think about new scope and, even more importantly, mount (I suspect your current one is not motorised and vibrates quite a lot). Powerseeker is not what you’d call a suitable telescope for astrophotography.

More bad news. Your camera is not really suitable for astrophotography. What you ideally want is DSLR camera, the one with removable lenses, and probably made by Canon. Next step up is dedicated cooled CCD but that’s for the future. With DSLR you’d need T ring and T to 1.25” or 2” adapter. The telescope becomes lens. Your camera has fixed optics and can’t be removed (easily). It is possible, but you ruin your camera doing it and it’s a bit hard to do as you have to leave focusing motor and cabling intact for camera to function at all, and then some more DIY. It’s not really worth the effort.

So, save for a new mount, telescope and camera if you want to be serious about astrophotography.

Now for the better news. All is not lost. You can still have some fun while accumulating wealth for new gear (say goodbye to your wallet if you go down this rabbit hole called astrophotography). You can still make some pictures of the moon, planets and the brightest of DSO’s. You’d need one thing for it - universal camera adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93626-Universal-Digital-Adapter/dp/B0007UQNWW something like that. Earlier I described what you need for so called “prime focus” imaging, when you use telescope as a lens. This is for so called “eyepiece projection” which can be done with any camera or even phone. You put an eyepiece in (you don’t need them for prime focus) and just snap away. The results might be slightly underwhelming bar photos of the moon, but hey. It can be fun and it was for me when some time ago I had similar scope and similar camera (the camera was destroyed when I damaged focusing mechanism while trying to remove lens, btw). You can also try using webcam. Try to get one with removable lens, glue an old camera film canister with a hole in the base as a 1’25 adapter and go for the Jupiter. You should get Jupiter bands with it, and practice processing/imaging. For this method with webcam you don’t need eyepiece.

OK. I think the telescope uses 1.25" telescope eyepieces, so would the 2" adapter fit?

So would something like this work better?
https://www.amazon.com/Telescope-Camera-Adapter-UltraWide-Canon/dp/B002F8Q2ZC

Or if not, could you post a link to what you're thinking would work best?

Thanks!

Hello :-)



> expensive

What is your budget?

Yeah, sadly EQ mounts are really expensive for such telescopes. At least if you want one that can carry that telescope without breaking or shaking ;-)

You might be better off selling the telescope and getting a dobsonian that's already on a mount, has accessories, and is better suited for visual observing compared to this telescope for imaging.

 

> eq mount

I suppose a HEQ5, EQ6 would be something.

The best option would be the used market (Astrobuysell, forums, classifieds).


> Do I even need a mount?

You will need to put it on something?


Do you want to use it for imaging or visual?

For visual: You could build a rockerbox.

• https://www.skyatnightmagazine.com/advice/how-to-build-a-dobsonian-mount/
  
  
• http://10minuteastronomy.wordpress.com/2010/11/02/how-to-build-a-dobsonian-mount-for-a-5-inch-telescope/
  
  
  
   
  
  > Barlow
  
  Barlows aren't eyepieces. They double the magnification of an existing eyepiece.
  
  IMHO, skip the barlow. Decent eyepieces cost less than a good barlow.
  
   
  
  > eyepiece
  
  The telescope has a rather extreme F/4 aperture ratio, which means some cheaper eyepieces don't perform as well.
  
  > eyepieces
  
  On a budget:
  
  250/1000mm focal-length.
  
  
  
• Planets:
  
  
  
• 6mm (Orion expanse or no name clone "gold-line"), 1000mm divided by 6mm = 166x (not the maximum the telescope can show, but usable under normal atmoshperic seeing condition). $20-$30, Amazon. Don't get a Plössl-type under 10mm due to short eye-relief. Don't get eyepiece sets!
  
  
• A HR Planetary, BST Explorer, Dual ED is available in shorter focal-lengths (e.g. 5mm=200x, 4mm=250x) but more than 200x doesn't work often due to atmospheric seeing conditions. E.g. 4mm / 5mm 58° $26-$40
  
  
• Overview: 32mm Plössl $15-$25 (40mm doesn't show much more really).
  
  
• Amazon or eBay
  
  
• 2" eyepieces are more expensive but show a larger field, but the wide-angle eyepieces get quite costly. E.g. Explore-Scientific 82° can cost over $200, $300. But at F/4 most of their field will be sharp.
  
  
• https://explorescientificusa.com/collections/82-series-eyepiece/products/82-24mm compared to cheap wide-angle eyepieces.
  
  
  
• One or two in-between.
  
  
• Over 10mm Plössl type work. So e.g. 15mm gold-line or Plössl. $10-$30.
  
  That would get you started :-)
  
  
   
  
  Do you have a finder btw?
  
   
  
  TL;DR: Unless you build a rockerbox, it might be better to sell it and get a dobsonian (for visual use). It will be sturdy, includes basic eyepieces, finder. As for eyepieces, you can get a set of 3, decent starter eyepieces, for under $40-$60 total, the same a decent barlow would cost (without an eyepiece, and that wouldn't work).

Hey guys, I have an Omegon N 150/750 EQ-4 Telescope (German site). I also got my hands on a Canon EOS 350D.

On astroshop.de, they point out, that an DSRL probably isn't best for that telescope and an webcam would be better.
Does that apply to planetary and DSO imaging? I will definitely do not but I hope to get especially decent DSO shots.

Should I use an Adapter like this one (or do I even need to buy all these parts?) for my 350D or would I be better of using an mobile phone adapter like this one for my Xiaomi Mi A1 camera?

For a 130SLT, yes. However there is a limitation.

You'll need a T-ring for Sony. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-Telescope-T-adapter-Adapter-Cameras/dp/B0163XEXPU ($13)

However, the 130SLT may require a barlow to reach focus. Sony's A mounts have a shorter flange focal distance than the Nikons I use (Which couldn't reach focus), but I'm not sure it's enough.

Example of barlow (I have used for my nikons, and it's actually a decent/good barlow) https://www.amazon.com/SVBONY-Magnification-Multi-Broadband-Telescope-Astronomy/dp/B00WW0TC32/

The other option (the one I opted for eventually) is to get appropriately length M5 rods and coupling nuts, and move the primary mirror forward 30mm-ish. (As I recall, I need to measure that sometime.)

The advantage for the Barlows is that it's easy. However that effectively doubles the focal length, and the focal ratio becomes f/10 as opposed to f/5, making imaging much harder.

You will have tracking issues, as it's supposed to update about every 30 seconds, and the motors seem to stall on those updates. So I would recommend keeping it to 15 or maybe 20 seconds. You can shoot 30 sec or longer, but you will need to discard a fair number of images.

Here's an example from 2ish years ago, with I think the barlow solution: https://i.imgur.com/gz5gVCn.jpg

I'll do what I can to help ya:

1. The eyepiece adapter won't work as a t-adapter, as a t-adapter threads into the t-ring. You'll want a 2'' adapter anyway. Something like this:http://www.amazon.com/Telescope-Camera-Adapter-UltraWide-cameras/dp/B00AC8GBVC (DON'T BUY THAT, it was just an example, I'm not sure it's the exact correct fit.) Is your camera sensor size APS-C or larger?
   
   
2. I think the glass is the same in both scopes (one FPL-53 element, the other schott I think). If it were me, I'd go with the Sky Watcher as the case and dual speed focuser is a nice add on for only a bit more money.
   
   
3. You don't need DSS on your field machine. All you need is PHD like you said you have.
   
   
4. I'm not sure about Pentax cams, can't help you here, sorry.
   
   
5. For post processing, pixinsight is da shit! If you can't shell out $250 for that (I don't blame you, I only have it because the wife gifted it to me), startools is $60 I think, and of course there's photoshop if you already have that, or gimp. But really, PI is the way to go if you're serious about this. It can always wait until later too. If you're in a red zone, I imagine you're going to be travelling to dark skies (as I do). You'll need a power solution. Forget that powertank, it sucks. Not only have they had a lot of QC issues (some are DOA), they're only 7Ah. You aren't powering shit off that. My buddy has two of them just to do visual work and he can't even go an entire night. Your best bet is to make your own power system from a marine deep cycle battery, but if you're like me and you hate DIY, you can pick up a duracell powerpack 300, 600, or 600 pro (that's what I have). I run my mount on an Orion Dynamo Pro (which sucks but was gifted to me so I kept it), and laptop off the duracell. Once my ccd comes in, the duracell will power that too. I do not have dew heaters or mirror fans.
   
   One other option for power that I used to do is plug a 300W inverter into my car 12V output (cigarette lighter), then plug my AC plug from laptop into that. Of course, it's terribly inefficient, because you're going DC -> AC -> DC, but it worked.....until late one night deep in the desert when my car REALLY struggled to start at 3am. That's when I said "SCREW IT! I'm buying a dedicated power source" and bought the 600 pro the next day.
   
   Also, you may want to consider a trip to GoodWill for a cheap flexible imaging table, a camping chair, and a couple extra blankets that can get all dirty. Creature comforts can add up in price too.
   
   Hope that helps man, good luck!

This thing. Super inexpensive and worth it. Got one for my telescope, holds my phone or my camera wonderfully.

You'll need more than just what KinderSpirit said. First off, before I do anything, tell us what model you have.

I just bought a Celestron NexStar 4SE scope, and it uses this adapter to fit a t-ring on it. T-rings like this for example will fit onto the adapter.

The rough setup will be as follows:

[Telescope] [t-adapter] [t-ring] [camera]

I don't have any pictures of my current setup, but it's in the exact order as it is above.

I'd be happy to answer any further questions.

I haven't seen a microscope adapter for a tablet before. The phone adapters with really well though, maybe you could either use a phone, or modify it to work with a tablet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JW9KHZ2/

These types of microscopes work great for general purpose viewing. They have a few different magnifications, and LED lights to view from the top or bottom. Plus they usually run on batteries so it's portable. https://www.amazon.com/TELMU-Microscope-Magnification-Illumination-Microscopes/dp/B07DQQKJNZ/

Finally there are these clip on lenses you can get for phones and tablets that can magnify, but not as much as a real microscope. Cheap and you might get good enough results with it. https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Fisheye-iPhone-Samsung-Smartphones/dp/B01CTZY89M/

Thanks.

My scope has a top port for the eyepiece and then a back port for a camera mount. There's a flip-up mirror that redirects the image to the top or the back as you prefer.

The back port is a male threaded 'stub' 1.25" in diameter. I guess I could use the top eyepiece port and focus in the camera LCD but then I'd lose the magnification of the eyepiece. So if I wanted to use the back port would I use this instead? It looks like it may have an internal thread?

My camera is a full size sensor - are there issues with vignetting with a 1.25" opening onto a full size sensor? Also - will the camera view be the same as the eyepiece view? or will they be different because one has the eyepiece magnification and the other doesn't?

I just read this review regarding old SCTs having threads too high.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Visual-SCT2-Modern-Photonics/dp/B01HWTHF7W/ref=sr_1_5?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1478277795&sr=1-5&keywords=2%22+visual+back

So I may not have the option to get a 2" visual back but your suggestion about a 1.25" to 2" diagonals may be a good option for me.

About the budget, I'm willing to go as much as $200 but I'm leaning towards getting a 2" diagonal that includes an adapter for 1.25" eyepieces and then waiting on Black Friday to get one good eyepiece. maybe a 9mm goldline or an erfle.

Yep that's the manual. Mine is the 90mm version, and it says that you need the diagonal, which makes sense, since there is no place to attach eyepieces. I have a 3x Barlow lens, a 25mm, a 12.5mm, and a 4mm. I measured the parts on the telescope, and it looks like all the fittings are for 1.25" pieces so I was thinking of buying this diagonal. Tell me what you think. And thanks for the tip on the cleaning :)

Hey guys. Tried out my new Orion ED80 last night. Took me a long time to achieve focus though. I am using this adapter with a T-Ring with my Canon T3i: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016M44MVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I found that I could not focus with the adapter all the way in the focuser. I pulled it out a bit, and then re-tightened the screws. I still needed to have the focuser almost all the way out though. Is there an issue here that is easily solvable that I am just missing? Thanks for any help, appreciate it.

Thanks for the reply.

Would these work then?
Solomark 2 Inch 42mm Telescope / Camera Adapter.
Fotasy EFT2 T/T2 Mount Lens to Canon EOS EF Mount

The 2" adapters seem to be expensive. Are they not just a plastic tube or do they also contain a lens?
I did also read about the focusing issue on dobsonians on a forum. Would extension tubes help?

Yes, mis-remembered. it is a T-adaptor so it should work with your Nikon if you already have a t-ring adaptor for it.
Edit: to be clear, I mean that if you do get the powermate you also need the powermate t adaptor linked above. That screws into a t ring and then I assume you already have the adaptor for your Nikon.

Looks like your telescope has a 2" focuser and the piece you have inserted is probably meant for 1.25" Astro cameras. What you are missing is a proper 2" to 1.25" adapter for eyepieces. You need something like this.

Thank you. I use this

It most definitely came with a 1.25" adapter that will let you use both 2" and 1.25" eyepieces. Unless the scope was used and the piece may be missing, but if that's the case, you can buy replacements from Amazon for $13

Sure - Deluxe Telescope Camera Adapter Kit for Canon EOS /Rebel DSLR - 1.25" Variable Eyepiece Projection & Prime Focus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053ZJW5G/

this goes on the camera. Then something like this screws into the first adapter and connects you to the telescope. You need to check whether your scope can take 2" eye pieces or not. If it only take the 1.25" size, then you would need this instead. On a crop sensor it probably doesn't make a huge difference, but you'll get less vignetting with the 2" adapter.

> AstroTech AT65EDQ

It has a 2" focuser, so you could get a 2" T-Adapter and a Canon T-ring You could probably get away with a 1.25" T-adapter since your have a crop sensor T3i.

I think that this is the one I use. It's particular to Canon DSLRs, though; so if you have a different sort of camera, it may not work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Gosky-1-25-Telescope-Eyepiece-Adapter/dp/B07CSQHMRB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2%22+to+1.25%22+telescope+adapter&qid=1566443750&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I have seen a few digital camera to eyepiece adapters , but haven't tried any . Amazon has this one Amazon
.Ive seen a few others on the internet and they all seem to be in the $35 to $40 range .

T-ring is just an adapter that fits your specific camera make's lens mount (so EF for Canon, F for Nikon, A or E for Sony, etc.) You usually get them with an adapter that slides into your scope's eyepiece socket (1 1/4", 2", whatever.)

This, for example.

I don't own a star tracker because I'd intended to shoot through the telescope first; my SC is a goto scope and the Newt has a battery tracking motor on it, so not needed. Also, I need to figure out S. polar alignment before I go blowing any more cash on gear :D

I may at some point, but want to screw around with my scopes first before investing in something like that; if I do decide to seriously go photographing, I'll probably drop on a Hyperstar first, though.