(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best wood carving tools

It really depends on what kind of carving you want to do. I mostly do low relief carving (which is carving an image less than an inch or so into a board), and to get started with that kind of carving you want a gouge or two, a v-parting tool, and maybe a knife. Ramelson makes cheap but reliable tools, and this is a good set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008I40CC6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_fC4HzbSYX6WBY - The problem with buying sets, though, is that you'll end up always using the two or three tools you love, and the rest will just sit there.

If it were me though, I would buy one good gouge and a knife, start carving with those to find out what you like, and then build your collection from there (once you get a feel for carving you'll start thinking "boy, I really need a tool to do this one specific cut", then you go and find that tool). Pfiel is my go to brand and I've always been very happy with them. If you're going this route then buy this gouge - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032YV9LU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_lU4Hzb1AZGTFX - or this gouge - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032YZ7IQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_L54HzbA1GKG75 - (the only difference between the two is the type of handle) and a knife.

If you think you'll want to carve "in the round" (wood sculptures) then maybe just get started with a good knife and build a collection from there based on what you need.

If you're thinking of carving spoons (which I don't do much so the other guys will be able to offer better advice) then maybe a bent gouge like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008GMUZO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_204HzbXFABDN4 - or a spoon knife like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALUTDP6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_k24HzbHWKGPE9 - and, again, maybe a regular knife.

And most of all GOOD LUCK WITH RECOVERY! Carving might just be a great hobby to help because it keeps you focused, especially if you're doing detailed work. Feel free to PM me if you need anything.

Edit: Oh, and don't worry too much about sharpening right now. Sharpening can be tough to master, and if you buy a good quality tool then you won't need to sharpen for a while. You'll need a strop of some sort though to hone the edge from time to time, and this is what I've been using for a long time now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FX9MHIG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_uA5Hzb9WTMR7J

gouges aren't that bad, you kind of just do a rocking motion, I've got a couple of stones that are circular, but usually I'll just take some sandpaper and form it to fit the inside of the gouge, but the key is to just keep them sharp, If I've used one for a while on a pretty dense wood I'll usually hit it really fast with a 1 micron, then my .3 micron paper, after which I'll hit the strop, but if it's light use I'll just make a mental note to strop it before the next use.

My gouges tend to hold an edge for quite a while to be honest, you aren't really doing any hammering actions like you would with a chisel, so you're less likely to chip and edge or anything, also just the general nature of using carving tools it's not like your hogging out a ton of materiel from your relief line to where there's air, so less resistance usually, and less material being taken off.

biggest thing is do not get cheap carving tools, Something like this, might be okay on something like pine, but good luck doing any actual fine detail work on hardwood, and good luck sharpening them. Unlike chisels going cheap isn't a real option, that being said it's not like a hand plane where you're paying $300+ for a single item. I personally prefer Pfeil carving tools, as most of mine are them, my local woodcraft stocks them and I've just collected them as I've gone, was nice because I didn't have to order online always.

Two cherries makes decent ones, and has entry sets that are below $150, I see that henry taylor set recomended sometimes, but can't really comment on them, Can't go wrong with ashley Isles either, I've known a few people with the york set and it will probably have all you need.

That being said, a gouge is a good place to start, get a wider one with a mid range sweep (sweep is how prounced the arc is, #1 is pretty much a flat chisel to like a #11 which is a semicircle, different countries might have differen't numbers, but I think 11 is the highst, as for pfeil my #12's are V shaped, I find myself using the more pronounced arc ones more, #8 is my most used one I think, but I don't do that much pure carving work, usually just accents on a piece. So get a gouge, and maybe a spoon or bent one also (has a curve to the neck so it's not flat, can get in weird angles), along with a carving knife and maybe weep chisel and you can do quite a bit.

As you said though, resharpening can be a pain, another plus of buying the high end brands is that they should come sharp out of the box, just hit it with a strop and stay on top of that before each use and you should be good for a while.

I started with a Mora 122, but it didn't take too long for me to realize that the long blade got in the way. (or rather, my hand got in the way of the long blade) The 120 looks better due to the shorter blade. Moras come extremely sharp, which is beneficial to someone just getting started, as you will be able to learn what it SHOULD feel like when you whittle. Then, you can compare your experiences to that as your blade dulls, and you'll be able to tell when you need to hone/strop.


I also bought the flexcut here

It's been a really good knife, but wasn't quite as sharp as the mora out of the box. However, the sheath is really nice quality (better than the moras) and its easy to transport, and the blade is nice and short so it doesnt get in the way. I would choose the flexcut if I had to choose one knife to bring somewhere to whittle.


Congratulations, its a fun hobby! Good luck!

I live in a forest, so finding wood to use isn't an issue at all.

I just walk around looking for cherry/apple/maple etc. I try to collect as many branches that I might be able to use. Then I split them down the center. Most of the time, you can make a spoon from each half. I try to use branches that are bigger than 4" inches or so.

I like to draw a rough shape of the spoon on the wood. I use a hook knife to carve out the bowl, It takes some getting used to, but it works very nice. It's a little difficult to sharpen though.

Then with a hand saw, I cut out as much wood as possible. I also make a couple relief cuts to make carving around the neck easier. Next I use a draw knife to shape the handle. I also use a good sharp knife. The handle is probably the easiest part to carve, but it's easy to make it off center from the bowl.

The key is keeping the tools razor sharp at all times. After the initial sharpen, you should constantly hone the edge. This is most commonly done on a leather strip that's been loaded with a waxy honing compound. Honing is considerably easier/faster than sharpening, and keeps a wicked edge, but you still need to hit the stone every so often. All you need to do is wipe each face of the edge across the leather, wiping away from the edge of the blade.

Instead of using expensive sharpening stones, you can also just tape some sandpaper to some glass/granite. But I totally recommend the DMT diamond steel blocks. A coarse, and fine, will coast you about $100, but they work great.

It generally takes me about 4-6 hours to carve a spoon. I try to always finish in a single day, otherwise the wood will become dry, and harder to carve. I'll put the spoon in a plastic bag with some of the wood shavings to sit overnight so it doesn't lose much moisture.

I also like to make things on a wood lathe. Like whistles, spinning tops, mushrooms, containers, bowls, trays, baseball bats, mallets, wands, etc.
It's a lot of fun, and there's little stress in getting it right. There's no "right" shape of a mushroom, just go wild.

Careful of tool sets advertised online. Good tools for beginners are Drake, Mainly for their knives, although all their tools are good. I use their Standard Detail Knife, mine is the egronomic handle at 1 3/4 though you may want a smaller blade. There are other good knife makers, Morakniv etc. Flexcut, Not fond of their knives, but their chisels are good, also I always recommend flexcut for beginners because they aren't very expensive yet will not let you down. I own the interchangeable, namely the 11 pc. and 21 pc. deluxe set, although they do smaller sets.

Good chisel makers are Ashley Iles, Pfeil, Two Cherries, Henry Taylor, Auriou, Stubai, Addis (antique, can find them on ebay etc.), Dastra. There's more but these names are fairly common among woodcarvers, especially Pfeil, though I prefer Ashley Iles. These are considered professional tools and can be quite pricey, last tool I bought was a Pfeil short bent V Tool that ran nearly 50$. You can see why I recommend Flexcut (For chisels, if you go beyond just knives) to start, you get more bang for your buck and can round out a set of chisel profiles (Or sweeps) fairly cheap. Then acquire more professional tools a little at a time. Avoid cheap no name chisels, most likely crappy steel Chinese junk that will just make your woodcarving experience piss poor.

You'll need a sharpening stone and strop, with some strop compound. I use a Norton Wide Soft Arkansas stone with their oil. And a Horse Butt Strop. You can use either Flexcut gold compund or Green Coumpond , either are good. I also have a Slick Stick Strop that helps with stropping the various contours on woodcarving chisels ( I've had this thing for like 11 years). Slip Stones are helpful as well to hone the inside of curved or v tool chisels, again I use the Soft Arkansas.

Wood you can get online, Look for Basswood on amazon or even Ebay, you can also find Butternut (White Walnut) on ebay which is a great carving wood.

Mind I'm not trying to overwhelm with info, most folks are happy with just a knife and wood to carve (with the sharpening supplies of course) I would actually recommend you start that way, if you find you enjoy it you can dive in further.

Here is a decent set of palm gouges to start. They're good for carvings up to about 12" or so.

You also need a decent knife. These are available on Amazon. I'm not familiar with these knives, but Ramelson ha a pretty good reputation.


However, if you are really interested in carving, This knife is an excellent knife and comes with a lifetime satisfaction guarantee.

btw: It would have been better to start a new post rather than replying to an older post :)

You're not crazy: Producing quality miniatures is a huge PITA. There's a reason professional models sell for thousands of dollars.

My wife worked on some blockbuster sci-fi movies, some stop motion films, and commercials as a model-maker. There's a lot to unpack in your post! It depends on your budget, resources, time, kind of shot, skillset, scale, desired realism, tools, etc. Some simplified options:

If you're just wondering what are the basic construction materials, good ol' basswood and foamcore and an X-acto knife with lots and lots of sharp replacement blades are the cheap workhorses. Sheet styrene and styrene rods and other shapes. Oh, and sanding blocks and sandpaper. So much sanding. If you are cutting lots of beams, stairs, and other thin pieces, the Chopper II is a big timesaver.

If you have access to a machine, lasercut acrylic is another common approach. Foamed PVC is another material that you can use similarly - draw your designs in CAD, print them out on paper, spraymount onto the foam and then cut out by hand.

Whenever possible, premade models or patterns are used to save time. My wife's old shop had a huge collection of model toys, hobby railroad parts, and patterned sheet styrene that they would raid for every project. The latter might be a big time saver for you (sculpting/etching bricks by hand suuuuuucks).

And yes, sculpting and casting. If you're just casting shallow details, Oyumaru/Blue Stuff is pretty handy, cheap, and non-toxic. Depending on your scale, casting from hobbyist molds might work.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

For a 2x2 I’d start by quartering it into 4: 1x1 (if you have access to a saw of some sort). Then it’s really up to the wand maker!

Either a LOCKING knife and whittling down the shape, (DON’T stab yourself!) or a dremel with some sanding bits are the two most common “bulk removal” techniques. Utility knives with replaceable blades are good for this.

I used a three inch wide belt sander to get this one down to a point.

If you are using a knife make sure you take lots of shallow cuts, instead of deep cuts which can follow grain lines and either end up too deep or split the wood.

If using a dremel always move the bit in the same direction as it is rotating, like a wheel going along the wood (only moving slower than the speed of the bit) this’ll keep the bit from biting in and leaning divots along the length.

I picked up these carving tools and used the bigger of the two “C” blades and the straight chisel one to make the scales. But they are definitely only good for detail stuff, not the main shaping.

Once you get the shape the way you like you can sand with 80, 100, 200, 400 grit sand paper depending on how rough it starts and how smooth you want it. I like to give my wands a coat of Howard’s Feed ‘n’ Wax when I’m done to bring out some of the wood’s color and help protect it from drying and splitting.

I’m happy to answer any more questions you have 😊 We also have some tips over at r/WandSmith

Hey there!

Typically you'll find that the more common knives like this are single blade, curved handled. Great for comfort as a boxy pocket knife can hurt your hand after a while.

I still maintain that the best whittling knife you can use is the knife you like the most, so long you maintain it well and practice good knife skills!

I do a type of carving I picked up in Japan called Ichii Ittobori which uses a special set of small hand tools. You can easily pick up a small set like these, or these, or these and carry them and a piece of wood around with you wherever you go. Make sure you get the correct orientation for right- or left-handedness (yes, it matters).

The tools and wood are meant to carve small pieces, too, so it's not like you're going to be working on a project the size of a loaf of bread. This makes the wood a lot easier to pack around.

For reference, here's a recent project I just completed in Yew wood.

Just remember to check them if you're going on a plane, or they'll be confiscated!

I got him this single knife and this set here . They are good enough to get you started.

For the core, ya I am putting something...interesting in it. My buddy and I are trying to figure out an easy way of hollowing out the middle of our "branches" without damaging the integrity too much. That same buddy has a magnificent red beard, beautifully manicured, so we are going to be pulling some of those off, braiding them, and coring the wand with that. If any material we muggles have contains magical properties, it's that beard.

Wao CncGeek! Thank you for all your help.

I will see the videos and examine the test cuts.
I have a standard carving V bit with one flute.
http://www.amazon.com/Zen-Toolworks-Shaped-Carving-Bit/dp/B003T40XLK
My feed rate is set at 40mm.

I agree with the deflection on the spring loaded.
My milling plan is to go deep on one side of the screen and then just 0.125 deep on the front side to get the best details.

Will test and get back with results.
Kudos to you

I don't sorry I learnt how to draw the simple patterns and then drew them onto wood. Graph paper is the best thing to practise on and this [link] (http://www.clanbadge.com/tutorial.htm) starts you off with how to do the basics. I also recommend these [chisels] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-31777-7-Piece-Carving-Sharpening/dp/B0001K9SFC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1374618583&sr=8-5&keywords=chisel+set) to start start you off if you haven't got some yet.

Good Luck!

It's slightly over your budget, but my camping pack usually has a good set of wood carving tools similar to these in it.

I leave out the ones my knife could cover for, but the curved ones are especially useful for carving out spoons, cups and bowls. Also have used them for grooving wood to make cordage tie around it better.

Here it is.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z2U5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3mtZCbQ9FSR24

Throw that blade away and put the straight blades in there.

It looks a little small but honestly it’s very comfortable for this type of small carving.

Honestly the biggest problem with it is that it’s almost too sharp because it’s such a thin blade. Very easy to take too deep a cut. Once you get used to it though it works really well and you can sharpen the blades instead of just throwing them away when they get dull.

I have a relatively cheap set of wood-carving tools that I bought at Michaels a while back to attempt carving a miniature. Those work super well in my experience, there are bladed scoops which do this job perfectly. They sell them online, at craft stores, and at hardware stores.

https://www.amazon.com/Zicome-Carving-Pumpkin-Vegetables-Beginners/dp/B01MDR12OQ/ref=zg_bs_8090896011_37?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3J35WBHHBGREVM5Y4WB8

This set is actually nicer than what I got for like a dollar more.

So depending on the type of carving you want to do. Like this is a good knife for spoons like wood spoons or salad tongs. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00343VCCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1420451007&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

some of these no matter what. I wish idid when I started. So many wasted bandages. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002IY0IS/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?qid=1420451150&sr=8-17&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

The exacto set. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z2UD/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1420451349&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 is a good starting set. Eventually if you like carving you might upgrade to something like this. I have this kit. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0020LOY7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_28?qid=1420451227&sr=8-28&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

After looking around quite a bit, I found This thing works great for transferring laser-printed or toner-copied images to wood, without any chemicals whatsoever. You have to be careful not to scorch the wood, but other than that, it works great.

Used on my guitar, here are some images (scroll to the bottom to see the laser-printed and transferred text) :

http://imgur.com/a/RDPEL


And my recent project thread:

http://www.reddit.com/r/Guitar/comments/rb3qy/custom_pbass_project/

Flexcut makes good stuff. Something like this or this would probably make you happy.

Basswood, butternut, and lime are popular choices as all rounders. Pine and all of the softwoods have all also been carved to death. Starting out, cheaper and freer is better because you'll do a mediocre job.

Hop on Amazon and look up "carving knife" and get whatever you want. The "starter" knives all basically look like this.

You need something to sharpen with, so heads up. You can get cheap combination stones that will cover you for now.

/r/carving

There are lots of different tool makers, here's a couple of detail knives that are decent price.

R. Murphy Detail Knife

Flexcut Detail Knife

I'd recommend staying away from the Mora knives. They tend to be longer and a little unwieldy. I think the blade is close to 2 1/4 inches whereas the Flexcut and Murphy knives I listed above are 1 1/2 inches.

For gouges, v-tools, and chisels, Flexcut Craft Carver Set (5pc) is a decent price as well. It's an interchangeable blade set, I started carving with it and still use it to this day.

Another thing you'll want to invest in is a strop and compound. Stropping your blade blade regularly will keep it sharp. Amazon has them if you search for "strop block" or "strop paddle". The sharpening compound I use is a chromium oxide bar or Flexcut Gold.

Thank you! there's the amazon link, tho they seem to be out of stock at the moment http://www.amazon.com/Wood-Carving-Tools-Set-Professional/dp/B01DVKK8XE

i'm not very good at explaining but here i go. i drew a a series of spirals then started carving them out, the first cuts were with a V shaped tool on each side, the rest was done with the blade in the pic. I just kept carving the channel deeper and deeper till the it met in the center. when i get home i'll take a some more photos, that'll probably give you a better idea

The Chopper II (better than the original, and only a few bucks more).

Plaplate should be found in any hobby shop, especially if they have a railroad section (The Chopper was originally made for their needs), or online through Amazon or a hobby store.

Depends a bit on the style

• I've seen a good bit of this furniture that uses exposed lag bolts; typically they are coutersunk using a forstner bit
  
  
• other try to conceal this with a plug; again using a plug cutting bit
  
  
• finally some folks opt for a more traditional approach and use wooden pins they make with a draw knife
  
  That draw knife on it's own is probably a decent investment; for the log furniture it would be pretty versatile.
  
  

I have a similar set. I really enjoy how compact this set is since there is only one handle. I didn't get the 11 piece, mine was a beginners kit with some wood and booklet and honing kit, but you can buy more gouges as you need them.

I used a starter set of carving chisels [like these] (http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Set-of-5-Tools/dp/B001UYQPNG/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1411898341&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=starter+carving+chisel+blades) but not those exact ones, and then this [Xacto carving set] (http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5175-Deluxe-Woodcarving-Set/dp/B00004Z2UD) when I got to the finer details.

For a cheaper kit from the same company, here are a couple of options. You can always buy more individual blades and gouges as you need them and can afford them.

https://www.amazon.com/Warren-Deluxe-Wood-Carving-Knives/dp/B0020LOY7C


https://www.amazon.com/Warren-Cutlery-Basic-Carving-Kit/dp/B00NWORRPC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WCH6T4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

That knife, sandpaper, a pair of needle nose pliers, and boiled linseed oil to finish.

Several (hand) tools:

North West Short Line "the Chopper II" (not uncommonly used by architecture students and model railroaders)
https://www.amazon.com/Northwest-Short-Line-Chopper-II/dp/B004P3SRI0

Aluminum cutting rail: http://www.dickblick.com/products/alumicutter-rulers/

Miter box:
https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75320-Small-Mitre-Box/dp/B0000DD1O4

Constructive advice: spend the money to get a legit carving knife, not a general purpose Swiss army knife. Anyways, telling you to be realistic about your expectations about quality and utility is constructive. That's critical life information.

Here's a decent carving knife. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WCH6T4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_7xMMDbA2PAP27