(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best aquarium air pump accessories

Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...

 

First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.

I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.

 

Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.

 

The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.

 

One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.

 

The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.

 

If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.

 

I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.

 

Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.

 

Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.

 

I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.


 

I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.

 

TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.

Basically, you need a tank, a regulator some airline, a bubble checker would be good to have and a diffuser. Also, you'd like a timer of some sort as you really do not need to have co2 running 24/7 nor would you probably want to.

My setup:

• 24oz Paintball co2 tank: $30 at paintball shop filled with co2.
  $23 dollars on Amazon - though I would have still needed to get it filled at paintball shop for $5 which brings it $28. $2 more - i think it's better at that to support the local shop and plus I didn't want to wait for the tank to come to my house as that would have arrived later than anything else.
  
  
• Adapater to utilize paintball co2 tank - $9 on Amazon
  
  
• Bubble Counter - $10 on Amazon I know the regulator has a bubble counter, however with the paintball tank it would not work as it'll be horizontal instead of vertical - you can choose cheaper ones. I just liked this $10 one. Btw a bubble counter will show you how much co2 you're adding or at least how fast as not every bubble counter counts it at the same pace but a good gauge to see how much you are adding - ie. you really cannot ask how many bubbles per second you should be running. the 1-2 bps that I run might be different on your bubble counter)
  
  
• CO2 Regulator - $60 on Amazon
  
  Price for this setup: $109
  
  If you need a timer, there's plenty of options. I already had one, but you can find them on Amazon.
  
  
• I was able to get this one as an add-on for $3.54 for something else though now it's $14.50 :/ and ironically I switched to a smart switch idea for my build anyways.
  
  
• Got this smart switch to control my autodoser and some other things -if it works it's a good $20 spent.
  
  Though in the end, you would need a timer and if you already have one then you won't have to buy one. Or if you have extra smart switches either that you can set a schedule on.
  
  Other tanks:
  
  Instead of the paintball tank you can get a regular co2 tank:
  
  
• 5lb from Amazon - $62 + ~$20 to fill at an air place It would have brought my setup to $141 if I went that route. It might be $50 more than the paintball tank, but it only increases price by $40 because you don't need the adapter nor the bubble counter. Pros: It could be cheaper. 24oz paintball is $5 to fill(in most places) a 5lb which is ~80oz can be anywhere from $10-$20. If it's on the lower end of that range where you live it's cheaper. Other pro is that less often you need to fill it. Negative: Larger and harder to hide. It won't fit in my setup or how I have my tank setup.
  
  Of course, that's just buying the stuff to build the system.
  
  You can watch videos about it on Youtube like Aquarium Co-Op's Co2 guide but I can still try to break it down.
  
  Get tank and properly secure it to the regulator.(I'd recommend watching a video on that as the regulator does need to be open for this part apparently). If using the paintball tank, secure the adapter to regulator first. DO NOT secure it on the paintball tank first. If you do it with the way the adapter is built, I'm guessing you'd be losing a bit of co2. Though, I haven't tried it, I'm logically thinking that it ain't good. If you use a 5lb tank or larger, there's something about some disc or gasket or something that is supposed to help keep it from leaking. I'm going to refer you to youtube on that one. I didn't use any on my paintball setup except for the gasket already on the tank. I did use some plumbers tape on the adapter to regulator though. I'm just hoping I don't have a leak and I'd be pretty confident to assume that I don't as I still have CO2 in my tank after a couple of weeks.
  
  All you need to do now is to attach the airline hose(some people will say to use co2-proof hose to prevent co2 loss, but I decided to skip that and you can decide what you wish to do as I might be right or wrong on that part along with other people who claim airline tube is sufficient) to the regulator. So after you attach the hose to the regulator, attach the bubble counter somewhere along the line before the aquarium(I think I did that right). Of course, if you use the 5lb or larger tank, you should be able to use the bubble counter that came with the regulator as it would stand vertical. The line eventually gets connected to a co2 diffuser which will break up the co2 into smaller bubbles to easily be dissolved better into your water. Of course, there are other ways to get the co2 into your tank, but this is the way I do it. Youtube can show you other ways, or other redditors for that matter. One thing to note is that you should also have a check valve to prevent water from going from the aquarium to your system. It should most likely be closer to the water than the co2 system. The bubble counter I use, also has a check valve for whatever that one is worth. Some diffusers come with bubble counters and check valves as well. Speaking of diffusers, i forgot to add that to my price. but that can run anywhere from $5 on up. Also the diffuser might have to be cleaned due to algae once and awhile.
  
  The system should be ran using a timer to coincide with your light cycle and should run basically when the lights are on. I turn my co2 on 1 hour before the lights turn on and turn it off 2 hours before the light turn off. Hypothetically, you can run it 24/7 however it's better not to as the risks are a bit too much for putting something in your tank that is not being used as the plants typically don't use co2 with the lights out and you can risk running into a situation where you deplete the oxygen in your fish.
  
  Overall, I think it's worth it at least for me. But also be cautious that adding too much co2 might be detrimental to your fish. If you are running it and your fish are all gasping for air, you definitely are putting too much in but you should never get it that far which some way to check it would be a good purchase for this. I just use the method of figuring out the ppm of CO2 based on pH and KH. I'm not sure how accurate it might be but it has been stable and my fish are doing fine as well as my plants and the algae is at bay. There's also what's called a CO2 drop checker that you can purchase to measure this.
  
  If you really want to get into this, I'd recommend researching it further yourself and maybe wait on some other more "experienced" redditors to answer as I might and could be wrong on some things. I know I've read some people don't think the ph/kh calculation method is good and to buy a drop checker, but I'm pretty confident in using it for my tank but I might be undosing the co2 for all I know. Though on the flipside, I could be overdosing, though my fish are not showing any signs of symptoms of said overdosing. But I could be wrong on that. If I am, please let me know. :) Definitely do your own research, like you should on anything. :) At least, get a good footing and confirmation from other sources.

Seafoam probably won't fix it. A shop will ream you. Some people claim they can get carbs rebuilt cheap, but in my experience a full rebuild has always been really high labor wise...

This is a CMX450C correct? Should be any easy job... You can do it yourself and don't let anyone lead you to believe otherwise.

Basic process that applies to most biles:


Lazy method. I usually do this to test if a bike runs before I perform a complete rebuild. More often than not you end up with some leaky o-rings that have never been changed:

• Remove tank and hoses with Petcock on OFF position (Observe your petcock. If it is vacuum type it may not have an off position and may have ON and RES or ON, PRI, and RES.) A non vacuum type petcock will HAVE to be turned off. On some bikes they are on the frame, but I believe on old hondas they are attached to the tank.
  
• Loosen clamps and remove airbox and hoses. Label the hoses and take pictures
  
• Loosen carb clamps on intake and wiggle the carbs free. You may need to man handle it a big (rock them up and down)
  
• Remove throttle cables attached to carb and choke if needed (on some bikes its easiest before removal of carbs, on some bikes its easier after.) Observe how they go on!
  
• Remove float bowl on both carbs
  
• Remove pilot jet using precision flathead (recessed hole)
  
• Remove main jet using flathead
  
• Clean both thoroughly with carb cleaner and compressed air if you have it
  
• Peak through them once they dry. Make sure they're clear
  
  Non Lazy method:
  
  
• Remove tank and hoses with Petcock on OFF position (Observe your petcock. If it is vacuum type it may not have an off position and may have ON and RES or ON, PRI, and RES.) A non vacuum type petcock will HAVE to be turned off. On some bikes they are on the frame, but I believe on old hondas they are attached to the tank.
  
• Loosen clamps and remove airbox and hoses. Label the hoses and take pictures
  
• Loosen carb clamps on intake and wiggle the carbs free. You may need to man handle it a big (rock them up and down)
  
• Remove throttle cables attached to carb and choke if needed (on some bikes its easiest before removal of carbs, on some bikes its easier after.) Observe how they go on!
  
• Remove float bowl on both carbs
  
• Remove pilot jet using precision flathead (recessed hole)
  
• Remove main jet using flathead
  
• Clean both thoroughly with carb cleaner and compressed air if you have it
  
• Peak through them once they dry. Make sure they're clear
  
• Remove carb diaphragm lid
  
• Remove diaphragm very carefully which will remove your needle + slide as well
  
• Clean needle and slide. Do not mix slides up in case they have worn differently than each other
  
• Split rack in two
  
• Make sure any fuel connectors are clean and if rust is observed flush your fuel lines!!!!!
  
• Remove float (it usually rests on a pin that can just be pushed out)
  
• Remove float seat and if it has a filter make sure the filter doesn't get stuck in the carb
  
• Remove all rubber
  
• Remove a/f screw, o-ring, and washer (might need to drill out a plug if it exists)
  
• Remove anything resembling plastic or rubber and notate their locations / take pics
  
• Blast the hell out of every passageway with carb cleaner and compressed air. Then do it again. Then do it a third time.
  
• Let dry COMPLETELY
  
• Lubricate the following parts with a thin film of grease -> Float pin, slide, needle)
  
• Reassemble with all new parts (usually a/f screw o-ring, float seat o-ring, float bowl o-ring, float needle, float seat, needle, a/f screw, a/f oring, a/f washer, af spring - some bikes have a few more.)
  
• Turn a/f screw to a base of 2.5 turns out (screw in all the way lightly then back out 2.5 turns.) You may want to adjust this later
  
• Bench sync the carbs (turn adjustment screw until both carb butterflies are in almost the exact same position.)
  
• Install on bike and hook all vacuum/fuel hoses up plus reinstall gas tank. Lubricate the last 1"-2" of the cable ends with film grease before attaching them.
  
• Start bike. It will take a considerable amount of turns compared to normal for the bike to start as the bowls will have to fill. Don't forget to use choke and if your idle is set too low you may have to adjust it for the bike to idle
  
• Adjust idle to manufacturer specs or slightly higher
  
• Sync carbs with carb sync tool (easier than you think. Hook tool with hoses and restrictors to each carb or each cylinder using a vacuum port. Adjust restrictors so that needles no longer bounce a lot. Allow bike to warm to operating temp and adjust the carb sync adjustment screw until both needs read the same. After each adjustment blip the throttle and allow the revs to settle.
  
• Adjust idle rpm to manufacturer recommendations
  
  It sounds like a lot, but it really isn't. The first time should take you a few hours. Once you get the hang of it you can perform a basic clean on many bikes in 30-60 minutes and a full rebuild in just a few hours.
  
  For a twin the cost should be approximately as follows:
  
  
• Rebuild kit - $30-$40
  
• Sync Tool - $50
  
• Restrictors (if yours does not come with them) -$4
  
• Carb cleaner ~$10
  
• Film grease (lucas red n tacky or something similar) - $5
  
  A shop might want $500-$800 for a complete rebuild.
  
  
  There are some more things you can look at on your specific bike (carb air cutoff valve rebuild, accelerator pump rebuild which should cost about $30 together so you might want to purchase those kits and perform those as well while you have the carbs off and access to everything.
  
  Youtube videos for your specific bike. Surely there is a website that can provide more info too. AND BUY A SHOP MANUAL.
  
  Good luck :)

This betta seems to have some pretty nasty finrot, this is often caused by poor water quality. It seems like he's in a fairly small tank, unfortunately, this is probably not a good environment for him. Bettas are tropical fish that need large enough (preferably 5 gallons or larger) heated and filtered tanks.

So the best way to help him is to get him into a better tank asap. The larger tank can be an aquarium or a plastic bin. The heater should be adjustable, with an internal thermostat. 25W should be fine, unless this betta lives in a particularly cold place.

A sponge filter is a good option for smaller tanks, here's a good sponge filter, it'll need to be powered by a air pump (like this one). Your friend will also need some airline tubing, and something to regulate airflow (this is a 10-pack, but you get the idea).

The water should be treated with water conditioner, like this one. Most people do 25-30% waterchanges, every week.

Cycling is another very important thing. Fish produce ammonia, which is very toxic to them. Luckily, there are bacteria that can convert ammonia into nitrite, and eventually into nitrate (far less toxic). These bacteria can live in the filter, and remove the bad ammonia from the water. A new filter doesn't have enough yet, by cycling we can make sure the filter media is colonized by the bacteria we want. This guide explains the process in more detail, this page here explains how to cycle a tank with fish.

Please also sent your friend a link to our caresheet, it might help them cure this little dude.

I konw this is a ton of information, but please ask your friend to give it a shot. This little dude can definitely recover :)

These are just personal experiences so take from them what you will.

I have an Aquatek mini that I have had good luck with. It has been running without problems since spring 2015 on my 15 gallon tank. The adjustment for the needle valve is pretty sensitive and it can be hard to find the perfect spot but it does seem to hold it's positioning pretty well. I have it hooked up to an atomizer from GLA and it works very well.

On my smaller puffer tank I bought this regulator:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XVFQ46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was quite a bit cheaper than the Aquatek mini price wise but the quality seems to be there. It's a hefty unit, has a built in bubble counter and adjusts fairly easily. I have it hooked up to a paintball canister with an adaptor from Aquatek and it hooked up easily and without any issues. It is pushing the CO2 through this glass diffuser and it has been working well. With the regulator, diffuser, some tubing and the paintball adapter I think it was all under $100. Keep in mind I have only had this running for about 5 days, so no idea how it will perform long term but so far I am impressed for the price.

I have not played with this yet but it is an interesting idea and should be fairly easy to accomplish.

In the link you posted they mention this pump at Adafruit. That appears that it would possibly work but they mention using a Peristaltic pump which would be my preference as well. They can be a bit more expensive like this one at Adafruit but you can find them a bit cheaper other places like this one on Amazon. With this type of pump you run less risk of the internals getting fouled since the liquid never comes in contact with any moving parts. In addition you can just weight one end of the tubing and drop it into your detergent bottle. No reservoirs or modifications required.

Next part is driving and controlling the motor. The common method is to use motor driver board containing an H-Bridge. A dual H-Bridge DC motor controller/stepper motor controller is what you will mostly find right now and can be pretty inexpensive. You can go the (sort of) easy route and get something like this shield for the Arduino but it is a little more expensive and has way more than you need for this project. Or just search on Amazon (or elsewhere)for "Dual H Bridge" and you will find many at well under half the price that will work perfectly fine for this. Some are even made for use with the Arduino.

As far has how to wire and program for this project, you will find plenty of tutorials and how-tos on Adafruit, YouTube, and many others.

I'd get as big as you can (easier to expand/ more carrying capacity) and sticking with cherries when you start. The cherries will breed and keep you happy and the CRS (Crysitals) are pretty sensitive. I'd wait until you establich your tank further before you get any CRS as they are 2x3 times the price of cherries.

My tanks just have black sand for the substrate and have beginner plants like amazon sword and stuff like that. A moss ball would help keep the little guys happy. The black sand also helps them get deeper colors of red.

For a 3-5 gallon I'd reccommend a filter like this and for a 10 gallon I'd recommend this filter. The difference is in the size and filtering capacity(notice the indents in the sponge filter, the smaller one has 7 and larger one has 9). The second one may be too big for a 3 gallon as it is quite larger than the other. If you really wanted, two small ones would work in a 10 gallon tank, but from experience, one large one would fit nicely in the short side of a 10 gallon.

sponge filters like this are great because you can clean half of it, reducing your risk for a mini-cycle after cleaning (because you clean one sponge every ~3 weeks for best results). It also eliminates all danger to your shrimplets as there are no moving parts for them to be pulverized with.

If you have any questions about more specifics I'll be more than happy to answer them!

Also, you'll need an air pump for that filter(s).

TBH I’ve been doing aquascaping for several years. This is the first time I’ve managed to successfully get the carpet and hair grass.

Here are a few pointers and pitfalls:

Pointer:
Use a soft, nutrient dense substrate. I use aquasolum black humate (a Seachem product).
Pitfall: Avoid using course gravel like Flourite. It’s too think and heavy which prevents the roots of a carpeting plant like hair grass from being able to spread runners and creating new growth sprouts. This was the single biggest reason all my other carpeting attempts failed. Black sand would work as well. Whatever it is, it needs to be soft enough for roots to be able to spread easily.

Pointer: Use quality lights. I use 2 x Kessill Tuna Sun lights. Those are crazy expensive and may be over your budget. I’m sure there are cheaper options.
Pitfall: Don’t use cheap lights which fail to produce adequate FULL SPECTRUM lighting.

Pointer: Use a filter that moves a lot of water like a canister filter. I use a Fluval 207.
Pointer: Use quality filtration media. The absolute best of the best is this Aquarium Filter Pad - Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHIOM8A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Coupled with this

Polishing Filter Pad 100 Micron -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014G7WTRY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pointer: Use CO2 injection. I use DIY CO2 and it works fantastically well. I use this
Estink DIY CO2 Generator Aquarium Plant System Kit D201 Tube Valve Guage Bottle Cap for Aquarium Moss Plant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCXOPKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jHTPDbPFZBQHC
With this
ISTA Intense Flow CO2 Bubble Counter suction cup hanging - aquarium Solenoid diffuser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RZZROHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dKTPDbN38ASP5
With this
JARDLI Pollen Glass CO2 Diffuser with Bubble Counter for Aquarium Planted Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N36MAO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1HTPDbHP2BECM
With this
Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uITPDbXA0Q9JE
With this
Arm & Hammer Baking Soda Unscented Box, Boxed 1 Lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YCILXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BJTPDb4VRBT2Z

Pointer: Use filtered water preferably from a reverse osmosis water dispenser. I own 4 x 5 gallon jugs which I fill up to use for any and all water changes.

Pointer: keep your water immaculately clean. Like 2 water changes per week which includes cleaning your filter media.

Pointer: don’t let any algae start to build up. I use a toothbrush to brush off algae growth from rocks and plant leaves.

Hope this helps. Happy to answer any other questions!

The nitrate spiked because you stopped dosing fertilizer. The fertilizer boosted plant growth, plants were consuming excess nitrates. Now your system has no fertilizer, so the plants are barely active, allowing nitrate to accumulate. Some plant matter is probably also dying, contributing to system nitrate. Your biggest issue is definitely lack of CO2. Test your pH 3 times over the day - when the lights first come on, when the lights have been on for several hours, and just before the lights turn off. This is your daily pH curve, and if you combine it with your carbonate hardness (KH test kit) you can determine how low your dissolved CO2 level gets over the day. Judging by how clean your substrate looks, you are running at a very very low CO2 level, probably near zero during the day. This will inhibit plants from growing and you'll NEVER get a carpet going in that condition. Emergent plants like floaters would be a good short-term option because they don't suffer as much from low dissolved CO2, since they can grab it from the air. Also invest in a nerite snail to help with the algae, and I think that would at least stabilize the issues you're having now.

​

Your options if you want a carpeted/ heavily planted tank are the following:

1. Invest in a CO2 setup. Low-end you could probably get away with a full setup for $~160. Those paintball setups in my opinion are silly. They still cost significant amounts of money, they often leak, often require adapters, and aren't THAT cheap over the multi-year scale. Local welding shops will sell you a refillable 5 gallon tank of CO2 for maybe $70-80 (refills are 8 bucks for me, I refill once every 6 months), halfway functioning regulator with built-in bubble counter and on/off solenoid will cost ~$60, Tubing $6, diffuser $12. There are also those DIY CO2 setups with plastic bottles, but they're quite a hassle and in the end you get what you pay for.
   
2. Restart the tank using the Walstad Method and a dry start. If you really want to "do things right" and maintain a nearly hands-free planted setup without injecting CO2, this is literally the only way to do it. You'd have to keep your fish in a separate setup for 6-8 weeks while the new design sets in, but once you've successfully set it up, it will be stable for years.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   So I guess you have to decide what's most important to you. Investing in CO2 is a good shortcut but pricey, Walstad method requires patience but is cheap and relatively hands-free once complete, or lastly you could just do your best to maintain what you have now by adding some emergent plants and snails.
   
   ​

You've already gotten some answers but here's a little more info:

1. Either (or both) is fine, although shrimp might enjoy munching on driftwood as it slowly decays. Any aquarium driftwood is fine like you said. Shrimp do however go nuts for cholla wood. It decays over like 6 months to a year and in the meantime it provides a nice hiding and munching place. For rocks, you probably want something inert (unless you have a gH/kH you need to raise). Granite, quartzite, often sandstone (unless it's cemented with calcite), etc. If you know what to look for it's easy to go digging around in your local riverbanks or hillsides.
   
   
2. In my low tech tanks I have java moss, java fern, anubias, brazilian pennywort, crypts, and bacopa monnieri. I also have pothos and philodendron growing out of my tank (you just take a fresh cutting and stick the end in the water so it'll grow roots in the tank). Water sprite and water wisteria are a couple others that I haven't grown myself but I hear are easy.
   
   
3. My understanding is that shrimp stratum is aimed more for crystal red shrimp in that it gives you a lower pH. I would just double check that it creates conditions that are appropriate for whatever particular shrimps you want to keep.
   
   
4. You can start with a handful and you'll end up with hundreds.
   
   
5. I use a glass lid on my tank just because I don't like having to compensate for evaporation. My larger tank's lid came with a plastic back where you can cut out sections for the filter and cords and such. My smaller tank has a little indent on the corner of the rim so that cables can fit through.
   
   
6. If you're getting a sponge filter, you need to buy the sponge+pump+tubing. Other filters (internal filters, hang-on-backs, etc) are an all-in-one thing. Sponge filters are great for shrimp but you can use other filters too as long as there's no way for bebe shrimp to get sucked up (so like covering the intake with a bit of sponge if needed). If you want a sponge filter, something like A B C will work (haven't used any of these personally so I can't vet for them, just googled it).

I'll tag team this one:

1. That would work but they make specialized ones that work great
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126416XW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
   
   
2. Some sort of privacy film on the back so that it lets in light but hides what's behind the tank
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTA00AX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
   
   
3. Epic.
   
   
4. Up Aqua or GLA both make some reliable units
   
   Totally agree about fish preferring the jungle/more densely planted tanks.... You really see their colors and natural behavior come out a lot more. After seeing the latest IAPLC results I'm wondering if the "Brazilian style" scapes provide enough sense of security.

Sponge filter (one that I really like the looks/features): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hygger-Biochemical-Aquarium-Container-Increasing/dp/B07RFKNF3G/ <-- small one should fit in your tank, dual sponges + double chambers with additional ceramic ball media = great space for your beneficial bacteria to grow = healthy nitrogen cycle = better water quality for your betta

​

Cheaper alternative, but I still like the other one better: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Huijukon-Biochemical-Aquarium-Tank，Tank-Gallons/dp/B01LZDXECV/

​

Air pump to run the sponge filter (it relies on bubbles to move the water out of it, and pull water through the sponges): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Uniclife-Quiet-Aquarium-MA-60-Accessories/dp/B0749KW5YK/

DO NOT use the freebie airline tubes, but the check-valve they include will be nice for you to use.

Better airline tubing - I use this one on my sponge filter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elite-A1123-Hagen-Silcon-Airline/dp/B0002AQI9A/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0OJ9X8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056XVF82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The second one is much smaller than it looks online, I was worried about size but it fits with ~2 inches to spare on either side on the side wall of my 10 gallon. It's just wider than my hand, and shorter with the telescoping tube down all the way.

As for the air pump, I'm like 99% sure it's the tetra whisper 10 gallon, but I'd need to find the box to be sure. I have it ran to a splitter that also allows me to adjust the airflow through the pumps like this.

You'll also want a couple of check valves, they basically ensure water won't backflow into the air pump and fry it out if the power goes off. They're basically little plastic cyclinders you connect the air tubing to, air can flow one way but not the other.

If you run a HOB with it, I'd just do one, probably the first link since the HOB would provide the circulation in the tank. You might want a smaller one though, that one's about 3 inches in diameter and takes up a good chunk of the back corner of my tank. I planted around it to make it less noticeable, but might be a little big in a 5 gallon.

Seconding sponge filters. Honestly, I never run a tank without one even if I have a HOB. They’re reliable, easy to take care of, and create a subtle flow perfect for betta tanks. They’re also great for shrimplets to feed on. Here’s the one I ordered for my 10g, since i’ve not personally seen one for sale in a fish store before since they’re far less profitable to sell than HOB or canister filters.

I actually ordered everything individually from Amazon. I’m sure you could probably find everything locally as well but it was easier for a newbie like me to get it all from the same place.

Aluminum CO2 Paintball Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G2WAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J3vBDbY97P8E0 - $22 ( + $5 to fill with CO2)

Aquarium CO2 Regulator with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7P8TL3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $53

AQUATEK CO2 Paintball Tank CGA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004M49QDC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $12

aFe Power Magnum FORCE 54-11473... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N36MAO4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $18

AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing 16 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UCOFJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z6vBDbMW07193 - $8

Century 24 Hour Plug-in... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $9

Aquarium Carbon Dioxide CO2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C9DGXV0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share - $11

Total: $148

Again, total newbie and this is the bare minimum of quality and price I was comfortable with. I plan on upgrading to a bigger tank and a better regulator in a few months. Do your own research too.

I was recommended this Beamswork light on here awhile ago and it has been great for me for the last year or so. If you are looking for a budget light this one has been great for me so far.

As far as co2 goes it is super easy to do honestly. It only cost me about $100 to set mine up and it is great knowing I can put almost any plant in and it has a chance. I am currently starting a carpet in my tank since I've had the co2 setup for awhile. Here is my setup:

But here is a copy pasted comment explaining my setup and links to all the parts I used that I gave to someone else:

Ok. I'll try to type out my whole setup.

The biggest parts of the setup are the tank and regulator. I use an Empire/Tippman co2 tank with a Double Sun Hydroponics Regulator.

Now, aquarium regulators aren't made with paintball tanks in mind, but most sporting goods stores won't refill tanks above 24oz due to safety reasons. So instead of buying a 5lb tank that no one can refill, I just use a simple Aquatek Paintball co2 adapter to attach the regulator to the tank I have. So for that part of the setup you just attach the adapter to the regulator and then after you fill your Co2 tank attach the tank to the adapter, done (make sure the regulator is plugged in and everything is tightened if you have already filled the co2 tank). Do not attach the adapter to the Co2 tank first, the adapter opens the tank so you'll just empty your Co2 into the air. So attach everything to the Co2 tank last lol.

I also use teflon tape on the tank threads and adapter threads just to help prevent any loss of co2 through the adapter. It probably wouldn't leak without it but I would rather be sure so I just wrapped up both pieces before the install.

Now that you have your regulator/tank setup we just need to get the co2 into the aquarium. I attach Aquatek co2 tubing to the bubble counter that comes attached to the regulator and attach it to a Rhinox check valve, this prevents any water from getting to the regulator, then run co2 tubing from the check valve to a Rhinox co2 diffuser, this condenses the co2 into tiny bubbles so it absorbs into the water.

Boom, almost done. We have co2, we are getting it into the tank, but now how do we know how much? We need a NilocG co2 drop checker and some Drop Checker Solution to put in it. This will come with a card that says the proper colors. I would suggest starting with low co2, check the next day, if the drop checker is still blue, increase the co2 a tiny bit and check again the next day, repeat until it turns green, yellow is bad and you might gas your fish so don't increase co2 too much at a time to protect the fish.

This guy's video series is great https://youtu.be/hwWtaOUH79g

Biggest tip I learned too late though is leave a Very large return pump section, this is where all your evaporating water will "leave" otherwise you'll have to add an auto-top off like I did (unsightly to say the least).

Skimmer is Coralife 05271 Super Skimmer with Pump, 65-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BJNL6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OemkzbK8G9K88

Best bang for your buck hands down especially for a smaller system.
I'll reply with a pic of my system in an hour or 2 for you.

The cheapest way to do things is much more reliant on Amazon than Petsmart or Petco.

Substrate: Pool Filter Sand from a pool supply store. You can get 20-40lbs of this for under $10 compared to roughly $1 for 1lb that pet store gravel/sand costs. It's also prewashed, which is nice. You can go with a special planted substrate, but for the most part you can get the same benefits by just dosing ferts or using root tabs. The one exception is if you are willing to spend more to get a clay based substrate like ADA Aquasoil or Fluval Stratum, which are much more expensive (the cheap alternative to that is to use the Walstad method of using dirt on the bottom and capping it with sand). A sand layer should be about 3" max. More than that and you could start developing anaerobic pockets.

Filtration: Air Pump Sponge Filters. I'd recommend getting two of these and placing one on each side but you can get by with one. I recommend the Walmart Aqua Culture 60 Gallon Air Pump to run them. It only costs $11 and surprisingly this Wal-Mart brand pump is the quietest air pump I've ever used -- much quieter than anything else I've tried. However you can go with any air pump you can find at Petco or Petsmart but they will cost more. You can rinse sponge filters out with old aquarium water when you do a water change, which saves you money in the long run vs. buying cartridges for a hang-on-back box style filter. However if you want to go with a box filter, I'd recommend AquaClear. They may be available at Petco or Petsmart, but likely at a higher price than amazon.

Heater: Aquatop Heaters from Amazon. For a 10G you only need the 50W, but for only $1.50 more you might as well get the 200W version so that if you ever upgrade you don't have to buy another. Since this line of heater has adjustable temperature and will turn off when the water is heated, it doesn't matter if you overbuy on heating. You can get other brands at Petco or Petsmart, but you'll probably be paying more for less.

Lighting: If you are going low tech, you should probably just buy a tank that comes with a hood and light (but avoid the full kit that comes filter/heater/etc. because you can get all of that cheaper separately). Hoods with matching lighting are really hard to get after the fact. If you go high tech, this sort of lighting is inadequate so you'd want to go a different route.

I use a Tetra Whisper 10-Gallon air pump, with one check valve to prevent back flow, going into a 4-way gang valve, hooked up to three mini cyclinder sponge filters. The 4th output on the gang valve is closed.

I have 3x bowls. Two are 3gal, the other is 2gal (for now).

You could use a setup like this, with the gang valve only outputting to your tank, mostly closed to keep the pressure low. If necesarry you could open up one of the empty outputs on the gang valve to bleed off excess pressure, but I don't know if that's necessary, and it might make more noise that way. With my setup, I can barely hear the air pump, and the gentle bubbling in the bowls is nice.

It's a really great setup if you plan on getting more fish, in seperate bowls/tanks.

• Regulator-$60
  
  
• 24 oz paintball tank-$23
  
  
• Paintball to CGA-320 adapter-$10
  
  
• Airline tubing-$7
  
  
• Diffuser-$12
  
  Total for everything is $112 not including tax.
  
  I use this regulator and the needle valve is a bit touchy, but its solid and works well enough. The solenoid has never stuck either. You can set it and forget it.
  
  People are going to call out using airline tube vs CO2 proof tubing. CO2 proof tubing is completely unnecessary at the pressures what we work at and isn't very flexible, so I like the airline better.
  
  This is my favorite diffuser because it has a halfway decent check valve, it has a build in bubble counter, and you can remove the ceramic disc without taking everything apart. I have 4 of these running in different tanks and 2 have had zero issues. The other two had small leaks that I sealed with gorilla glue and they've worked perfect since.

I use this pump.

https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-Powerhead-Gallons-Hour-Listed/dp/B001EUL5OA

It does a fair job of keeping a good flow in the tank and has adjustments to dial down or redirect the angle of flow.

Your black neons are native to the Paraguay River Basin so I'm quite sure they'd enjoy it. My black skirt tetras were particular fans of the increases flow and would swim in and out of it as if they were playing.

I would caution that the entire tank not be flowing and to ensure there are quiet spaces for fish to sit in slow moving or still water.

Just some cheap miracle-gro potting soil off the shelf in the hardware store. No flourite. I had some leftover eco-complete from when I did my big tank, so I tried to cap it with that, but I ended up just using petco aquarium gravel for the cap, mostly.

I've read that for a walstad tank, you don't really want to get the kind with peat. I think it's because it adds more organics that decompose quicker? (I might have just made that up, though).

Though they say you don't need a filter, I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089KVC32/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_dAFHwb0AXWYJE to just add a little flow and help clean up the water while I let it settle down.

Plants include some random stuff I don't know that I got from my big tank, some chain swords, and some repens.

It's only been set up for about 3 weeks or so and I'm super excited to see how it looks in a couple of months.

This is crazy, cause I had this list put together, let me know what you think of this stuff? May go with your diffuser tho as it seems cheaper, is it also a c
Drop checker or do I need to get one of those too? Also, should I be dosing stuff on top of this CO2 setup? Like should I use Excel and other stuff still?

Ohhh ok, wasn't sure if you tried cutting the top off of it or not.

JT CO2 Tank 12oz w/repeater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G2WAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-t03AbGZWQRJ7


Interstate Pneumatics WRCO2-5A4 CO2 Paintball Tank CGA 320 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iu03AbTZCMEKR

CO2 Regulator Aquarium Mini Stainless Steel Dual Gauge Display Bubble Counter and Check Valve w/ Solenoid 110V Fits Standard US Tanks - LP150 PSI - HP2000 PSI Accurate & Easy to Adjust Comes w/ Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6HKTN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fu03AbFC8ZJ3S

Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit - 3 Seconds to Read CO2 levels - 3 Minutes to Setup - Fastest way to ensure sufficient Co2 in Planted Aquarium - Includes pH Reagent indicator solution & Color chart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Xu03AbX7A0N5G

Pollen Glass CO2 Diffuser with U-Shape Connecting Tube for Aquarium Planted Tank (20 - 50 US gallons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2LZOCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dv03Ab406ZNJT

AQUANEAT 25 FT Airline Tubing Suction Cups Control Valves Tee's Check valves Aquarium Air Pump Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Z8ZR9H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sv03Ab2DJ19BC

Rhinox Brass Check Valve for Aquariums - Sturdy, Reliable, Anti-Leak, Anti-Backflow, Non-Return CO2 Air Valve That Ensures One Directional Water Flow, Perfect for Sensitive Fish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHXW5SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gv03Ab2QEHCZQ

The best Skimmer you could get around $100 would be the Cadlights PLS-50, around $110 on Amazon. A coralife super Skimmer is another option, $86 on Amazon. A hydor slim skim nano is around $100 too. I have the elite version of the PLS-50 and it is an amazing Skimmer. No microbubbles and extremely extremely quiet.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EEJONF6?pc_redir=1411898913&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BJNL6A?cache=d037aa90a2525d3b3725c2f20bc78505&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412977315&sr=8-10#ref=mp_s_a_1_10

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GB0NX8?cache=d037aa90a2525d3b3725c2f20bc78505&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412977515&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Basic model, very little flow that mostly goes up.

Double spongy action, with an outlet that can be placed above the waterlevel (even less flow!).

Corner filter, has more room for other types of filtermedia, a bit harder to clean depending on what you stuff it with. Has a cute little outlet that prevents our idiots from getting stuck.

I really like this one, it's quiet and comes with a valve

tubing

valve

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

That's exactly what I do on my overflow. It works like a champ. TOM Aquarium makes an awesome dosing pump that I use just for this. I recommend having a long lead on your output that you can securely mount low into your aquarium, otherwise, you get some pretty loud bubble popping if it's near the surface of the water (from personal experience).

Thanks!

Inside this grow-tent, I'm using 2x VIPARSPECTRA 300w LEDs for the lighting. I have a 4 LPM air pump with tubes running into each container (plugged to air stones). This setup is running on a timer from 6AM to 10PM.

The containers are ~10L (a bit more than 2gal) plastic trash bins from Walmart. I found it was the most efficient containers as they are more high than wide (unlike most standard storage containers), which allows me to fit more in the tent. This also enables the roots of the plants to reach deeper which I think is good (but don't quote me on this).

As for the nutrients I use standard General Hydroponics Flora series. I started with small concentration first, then followed the general indications on the bottles (aggressive vegetative growth until they start to flower, then transition to bloom, and then bloom and ripening).

I topped them all at the beginning when they had about 4 or 5 sets of leaves. I also pruned them a few times, cutting big leaves preventing light from reaching the middle of the plant.

Temperature was kept at between 22°C and 28°C most of the time (71F - 82F). Humidity varied between 35% and 55%.

I also have a Raspberry Pi in there to which I connected (and soldered) a humidity and temperature sensor. I then wrote a little app to send the data to a database and wrote another app to display real-time temperature stats and charts. I did this mostly for fun but it was useful.

Pm0606 Micro Oxygen and Co2 Bubble Diffuser with an Air Control Valve, forever contious smooth bubbles, 100% High Qualitiy Very good for shrimps , Guppy, Tetra, Betta and plants (Co2 Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MKPS23/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NkFRBbW6QK4BD
I bought this diffuser, the large version, and it actually has a bubble counter built into the little cup area. It is a acrylic diffuser but it looks like glass. I'm very happy with it so far.

> Please list ALL the basic equipment for pressurized CO2?

• Cylinder
  
• Regulator
  
• Solenoid Valve - can be bought separately or as a unit with the reg.
  
• Check Valve
  
• Bubble Counter
  
• Diffuser
  
• CO2 resistant tubing
  
• Timer plug
  
  I use a CO2 fire extinguisher rather than a normal cylinder, but it's essentially the same.
  
  Only real downside is the ongoing cost. Other thing to think about are balancing CO2 levels when the lights go off, but that's easy enough to accomplish with the timer plug.
  
  Cost for me was about £100 all in, but I got lucky with some cheap CO2..

Can't recommend a specific one, haven't tried enough. Diffusers by sold by GLA or Nilocg are supposed to be good. My LFS uses this and something similar to this. I'd say take a look on amazon for reviews and which one looks good to you.

Pumps for recirculating cleaning fluid/water/starsan through your tap lines:

This is completely new to me. I was going to follow this tutorial, but I remembered that a co-worker of mine used to own a pet shop, so I asked him if he had any aquarium pumps he didn't care about. Sure enough, he has a couple of these puppies, and is going to bring one in for me. As I understand it, it would accomplish the same thing as the pump I was going to buy. Is that true? Also, since this was used in aquarium before, is it safe to use? I plan on running cleaning fluid (BLC), water, and StarSan through it/the taps.

You have options. Here are a few great filters:

• Sponge filter powered by an air pump with a ball valve to control flow
  
  
• Hang-on-back filter with adjustable flow
  
  There are other options but for a 5 gallon these are great.

I use an inline diffuser on my 90 gallon tank with an eheim classic filter. The inline diffuser I got works well with the plastic tubing that came with the eheim, but I don't think it would work on the ribbed fluval lines. So, if you go that route, be sure to find reviews on the specific model you are getting that say it will work with the fluval lines.

The dispersion is great, and most bubbles are disolved before making it to the surface. If you look closely at my tank, you can see that the spray bar is shooting micro bubbles across the entire aquarium.


This is the one I bought (maybe a different size):
http://www.amazon.com/U-P-Aqua-Inline-Atomizer-System/dp/B006HKMO06

Pretty sure thats a one way valve used for aquarium air hoses to prevent back flow ( its like 2$ at the most ) just google "aquarium one way air valve" heres one from [amazon ] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00880E1ZY/ref=asc_df_B00880E1ZY5278077/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395009&creativeASIN=B00880E1ZY&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167154348866&hvpos=1o6&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3436395029060900773&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019234&hvtargid=pla-316279223475) honestly i would just toss it unless you have a use for it

I would automate:

• water changes
  
• water tests
  
• chemical dosing (e.g. flourish excel, prime during water changes, flourish potassium etc etc).
  
  By having a cleanup crew (amano shrimp, nerite snails, siamese algae eaters) in my 75 I've managed to automate algae management and cleanliness.
  
  I've been thinking about the last one ... there are pumps you can buy on Amazon that do that like the Jebao Pump, and even considering DIY solutions like this with a Raspberry Pi.

Regulator, bubble counter, dual gauge, needle valve built in one. - $57.99 - I've read the more expensive the better, but this one has worked great for me.

Inline Diffuser - $39.99 - I use this to attach to my tubing on the canister filter. Much cheaper if you go with a regular diffuser that goes inside the aquarium.

C02 Tubing - $9.99.

I bought a 5 gallon filled C02 tank from a local welding store for about $60.

​

Once every several months I'll take those hoses off and clean them out with a pipe cleaner. Make sure to attach the hoses really well when you put them back on. Might even be a good idea to trim an inch or two off the end of the hose first (i.e., trim off the parts that have been "stretched" by the previous connection).

A filter like this works great and is powered by an air pump like for a bubbler

It's just a lil 5 gallon! :) The CO2 is the basic Fluval mini co2 kit, but I replaced their diffuser with this bad boy. I usually have it at about 1 bps (bubble per sec).

Also, here's a fun tip! You can get significantly cheaper CO2 cartridges on Amazon! As long as the cartridges have the threading you're good. 6 cartridges for $20, vs 3 for $16. For me, one cartridge usually lasts between 3-4 weeks.

For 10 to 20 gallons do this except instead of a power reactor use another bottle to make this

I've done diffusers, ladders, bells, flourish excel and I'm currently running co2 through an inline diffuser on my 75 gallon. For small tanks a co2 bell fed from some wine yeast will go for months, and produce more co2 than you can really use for less than the price of a co2 cylinder, let alone the regulator and diffuser and timer.

Pressurized is the only option once you hit 40 to 50 gallons. At that point, don't skimp on the regulator, the Milwaukee is worth every penny. It's kind of like going salt water, go big or go home. Every dime you save, ends up being more frustration, and often costing you more in the end.

If you do decide to go pressurized, this has been the best diffuser I've tried. Some people have had problems with them, it's been a champ for me for 3 years now.

If you decide to go the DIY route, remember, you don't have to use plain sugar and bread yeast. You can use honey and wine yeast, so when it's time to change out the bottle, you get mead or apple wine, or beer. Whatever floats your boat.

I use this one, and it has worked perfectly for me.

As with the glass ones you want to be ultra careful with handling these things or else the stem could break easily.
In order to get the tubing on mine I heated the end of the co2 tube in boiling water before I tried to slide it on the diffuser to minimize possible breakage.

Anubias and Java Ferns are some of the best to keep with goldfish. Cryptocorynes and Swords should do alright as well. If you're looking for a moss type plant to keep with them, Riccia Fluitans is a good one. If your fish are going after those plants, try increasing their feeding schedule. Adding plants specifically meant to be eaten will keep them off other plants. Toss a bundle of Anacharis in with them or a handful of duckweed.

Quick growing plants will do more for your water quality than the slow growers listed about. Consider adding floaters, like Dwarf Water Lettuce and Salvinia. My goldfish pick on those some, but I end up dumping a solo cup of floaters every other week from my goldfish tank just to let light through. Alternatively, you can grow some terrestrial plants out of an HOB. Pothos is a popular choice.

The Python comes in a 50 ft length

Diffuser

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N36MAO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Citric Acid


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Co2 kit. Includes instructions on how to mix baking soda with the citric acid. You provide your own bottles. These are just typical 2l soda bottles.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MC7PK5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1




I have yet to install the kit as I am waiting for the defuser/bubble counter but from all the research I have done, it seems to be a good working solution that requires minimal fuss.

I am using this regulator and this adapter with some cheap co2 paintball tanks. Been working great so far, the solenoid valve is really useful.

Simple Deep Water Culture System:
Tent = anything like this
Bucket = anything like this
Air Pump = something like this
Air Stones = some of these
Air Line = sure, this
Nutrients = General Hydroponics Flora Nova Grow & Flora Nova Bloom (available at any hydroponics supply store - expensive to buy online)
Lighting = so many options, this is a great starter light MEIZHI

Lemme know if you wanna consider Ebb and Flow - not much different overall but a cool system.

Why are you using an air pump instead of a small water pump like https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Lifter-3-5gph-inches-height/dp/B001BOD9JI ?

I was going to say, it sounds a lot like a sump filter (and then I saw your pic that says "sump"). How would you control the rate that water flows back into and from each tank? I think the hardest part of your design is getting the flow to be the same to all of the jars. Why not just go with a drip system to refill tanks and a drip siphon from each jar to the sump? It sounds like you're already going the route of a drip system since you're using an air pump and possibly airline tubing.

a+e+k Happy cake day, and thanks for the contest!

You should have 0ppm Ammonia, 0ppm Nitrites, and most fish are fine 0-20ppm Nitrates.

If you do 80% and you get down to the 0-20 range, you're good, other wise do another "one". The closer you are to zero, the more time you'll have before the fish make you do another one.

Also, do you own a Python? Cuz if you're doing a bucket brigade, you're wasting time and muscles. It's worth the money to not stress over the mess/time a bucket takes.
https://www.amazon.com/Python-Aquarium-Maintenance-System-50-Feet/dp/B000255NXM

Sounds like your regulator may have crapped out. I'd recommend a regulator like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XVFQ46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tc9rDb4998G4Q

ezpz! in addition to the sponge filter itself, this is what you need:

1. air pump $7.11
   
2. airline tubing $3.47
   
3. check valves $5.42
   
   optional:
   suction cups $5.09
   
   splitters & extra valves $6.29 the air pump comes with a control valve, but it's always nice to have extras + this comes with splitters in case you want to use one pump for multiple tanks or to attach an air stone.

Haha, I'm so glad it helped. I took a look at that after I wrote it last night, and I was like "man, apparently I have opinions about sponge filters." Don't know if you've bought that four pack yet, but I found a cheaper one for you. There's a couple that are Prime too, if you look.

Don't forget to get some air control valves so you can control the amount of fizziness.

I really should make my user flair "needlessly verbose" or something. 😅

First ad on Google: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MC7PK5/ref=asc_df_B074MC7PK55385157/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B074MC7PK5&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198060275213&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12936830381352023636&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032144&hvtargid=pla-392682959648

First search result on Google: https://www.co2supermarket.co.uk/diy-co2-kit-setup-instructions-guide-6.html

Exactly like the one that's been relegated to a dusty corner of my aquarium room. Holds pressure perfectly fine, which you would expect to be the case for something that is designed to do that.

Lol, it's nothing special, the powerhead I have has an intake where it sucks up water and an output where I can clamp a hose in. The only issue is that I need to sometimes plug and re-plug to get it to start pumping.

When I say powerhead, I don't mean the wavemakers, the powerhead I seem to be using, apparently from researching online, used to be used often when UGF used to be really popular. I guess they developed it some more to sort of make it better. An aquclear version of what I am talking about is this.

I'm very happy with my sponge filter! Here's my set-up:

• Filter = Jardin Economy Corner In-tank Filter
  
• Pump = JW Pet Fusion 200
  
• Airline tubing = Penn Plax Standard 8-ft
  
• Check valve = Lee's 2-way Plastic Valve
  

Hey guys,

​

I saw this awesome video by Derek Gilman about an automated curing system he had built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jho0qeTUZnA

​

His rig is with 5 gallon gamma lid buckets, and he loads about 2 pounds in each one. The way the system works is you put your dried bud in the buckets, and you hook up an air pump to the buckets, on a timer. The timer I have set is for 15 mins every 24 hours. (The timer kicks on the pump, pushing air through the buckets, and auto shuts off after 15 mins). You install little valve outlets on the container and they exhaust out the old the air when the pump comes on, and then seal back up when it shuts off.

Being a micro grower who grows autos that yield ~100g, at about 179 grams a gallon I would be nowhere close to filling a 5 gallon gamma lid bucket, and even at 2 gallons I'm still a bit short.

So, I went to the store and found 1 gallon airtight food containers and it works! I was able to fit a Seedsman Zkittlez Auto I just got finished drying/trimming and ready for cure.

The system I built is:

- Aquarium Air pump, ideally with a built in manifold so you can hook up multiple containers: (NON AFFILIATE LINKS!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ILGHAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Air line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Check Valves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKJXZ78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- 3/16" Drill bit

- 1 Gallon airtight food storage container https://www.walmart.com/ip/Better-Homes-Gardens-Flip-Tite-Square-Food-Container-16-Cups/370961661

- Timer with 15 min increments: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I noticed that the pressure was a little too high when I had only one check valve as the outlet and it was causing the lid to pop up, so I added two more. If you are growing photos, you're most likely yielding more than I do with my auto plants, so you'd prolly be able to just use the 2 gallon gamma buckets, which should hold about 1/2-3/4 pound. https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Black-Bucket-Screw-threaded/dp/B018BFY2KY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=2+gallon+gamma&qid=1574473805&sr=8-5

sounds like you just had an inefficient system tbh

i never empty out my dwc, i let the water get low enough that it forces me to fill it back up with nutes, no issues whatso ever.

constantly ph checking= once every couple days? even then it is stable enough to not do anything with it except maybe once a week. get a decent sized container and it isn't an issue. it's an issue when people are growing 4ft plants in 2g pails

i don't use a chiller, and haven't had high temps ever, AC for the house and the tent is in the basement, so cooler air is pumped in always

if I'm lazy i just fill my vegging plants with plain tap water and no nutes, deficiencies aren't the end of a plants life instantly, it takes weeks and weeks of no nutes

the price of my dwc was cheap as hell...all prices cdn

13$ containerx2 - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.102-l-strong-box-tote-with-locking-in-blackyellow.1000706729.html
45$ air pump (does my entire tent and veg area without issues)- https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002JLJC0W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12$ air stones - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MT45VCM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
7$ air splitter - https://www.amazon.ca/Uxcell-Jardin-Control-Aquarium-Diameter/dp/B00A8X1XI2/ref=zg_bs_6292472011_39?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KC92XXTPW3FJSTWA4C12
7$ air tube - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000255NYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
15$ netcup - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073WJ78MM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
24$ digi ph pen - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07C9WR156/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So complete setup, without having to buy anything else again for a 4x4 tent is a grand total of 136$

i have left it for 12 days without touching it after a fresh top up due to work requiring me to be away

now, a RDWC could be a bit more advanced, overwhelming and costly to a newer person, but for sure throwing an airstone in a bucket isn't complicated for newer people

Short tanks are tough for co2 for that reason, totally understandable. What I recomend is a finer diffuser such as This one

Place it low, under the bulkheads for flow.

It shouldn't be very much co2 at all for the 5 gallon, and most micro bubbles SHOULD dissipate before the surface tension breaks.

Check your variable PH With This to make sure enough co2 is being dissolved and replace the solution about once a week.

Edit:

In addition, make sure to only run co2 30 to 60 minutes before lights come on until about an hour before the lights go off. Plants don't grow at night.

Oh! Also, let's see a picture of this tank so we can save it later for a program pic!

Yeah, making sure that the water does not come back up the tubing is the issue.

Something like this, attached to a tube (glued in place), with an aspirator at the end.

http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Plastic-Aquarium-Valves-2-Piece/dp/B00880E1ZY

not sure where you're getting your prices. I got two decently reviewed powerheads for $14, a skimmer for $100, $40 for 10lbs of live rock and another $60 for 20lbs of non-live rock.
And then i got your basic run of the mill filter for $30

Got pretty much all of this on amazon. I'm sure the local fish shops would charge up the a$$ for this stuff... Do you think I need any other filtering other than what i'm linking to below?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IMDQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Coralife-05271-Super-Skimmer-65-Gallon/dp/B000BJNL6A/ref=sr_1_22?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480323303&sr=1-22&keywords=saltwater+sump

I have the same one I think.
I'm pretty sure this is the same as the one I have

http://www.amazon.com/ZJchao-TM-Peristaltic-Aquarium-Analytic/dp/B00F9MXFFQ

Cool, thanks! This Aqua lifter Pump?

We all started this way :)

I have similar sponge filter, it stays in the tank without floating, weighted base. But if yours floats, you can attach it to something. Or superglue it to some 2" ceramic tile. Let it cure outside that tank and rinse well before adding to the tank.

Gang air valve, double or triple, plastic is OK too, is used to regulate air flow. The third one 9extra) could be used for bleeding extra pressure outside, if needed. Or available almost anywhere single plastic valves could be connected by pieces of flexible air tubing.

This + this+ this. I use this setup and it works perfect for me.

Yes. It pulls the water up the PVC pipe, through the barrel chamber stuffed with polyfill, and then the water flows out the top outflow if the powerhead.

I used this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EUL5OA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Eventually I want to get around to switching the PVC out with soft tubing. The powerhead comes with a rim bracket so ideally I want to hang it from the rim and then work the tank with the attached hose.

That powerhead has adjustable flow. I’m not sure how low the flow can be set since we use it in a 60 gallon tall and use the outflow to stir up detritus while vacuuming.

Thank you. Mine works well except on the bend.


yueton Aquarium Water Filter Pipe... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126416XW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Work order the ADA one.

this is what i'm using in all my tanks. if that's too big, this is a good alternative.

NEVER buy this. the connection for the air tube is too big and is nearly impossible to get a tube on.

something like this:
pump
sponge
air tube

You could get a Python Hose if you are worried about hooking a regular hose up to your kitchen sink. I have used them for aquariums and they keep the water where it is supposed to be. Your plants look beautiful!

Hey OP, try this. TOTALLY worth the price! Drains water directly into your sink. I am sure you can find it cheaper in other places.

http://www.amazon.com/Python-No-Spill-Clean-Fill/dp/B000255NXM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1348601844&sr=8-4&keywords=python+siphon

After a couple weeks of researching the same thing, I wound up assembling my own rather than getting a kit. I have a 60g with a 5lb tank that I got from a local welding supply store that fits nice in my compact cabinet. Tank cost $60 and $15 to fill/refill. Attached to that is this regulator which I run on a wemo plug to come on only when the lights are on. I use this diffuser (which I think is overkill). All connected by this CO2 proof tubing. Finally, I use this drop checker. Less than $200 invested. It's silent except for the instant that the solenoid switches off/on. I have to trim plants a couple times a month. At two bubbles/sec, I get about 6-8 months between tank refills. Slightly cheaper option may include a paintball tank with adapter.

Can you touch it with your finger or a long brush? These these are helpful https://www.amazon.com/yueton-Aquarium-Stainless-Cleaning-Flexible/dp/B0126416XW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494877509&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+brush

If it doesn't scrape off with even a hard touch it's probably corraline.

Surface agitation is what oxygenates the water, so you have to have surface water movement and you need more movement the higher the temperature. So, if you'll have tropical fish in the top tank you'd need more movement than what I'm seeing in the goldfish tank. But, if the bubbles you have are too big, you can buy an air flow control valve at your LFS for a dollar or two to reduce the number of bubbles. Then there are also diffusers that make tons of little bubbles like what you have on the bottom left.

If you don't have one, a Python water changer is the biggest time saver I have come across. There's also a 25 foot version for a bit cheaper if your tanks are closer to a tap.

I have 4 tanks ( 3 * 10g and a 29g), although I do have my girlfriend to help out. We keep a schedule as best we can - Saturday morning is water change day. If you don't have enough time to do all your tanks in one go you could split them up and schedule doing 1 or 2 tanks on one day, then another one the next or whatever works with your time.

Once a tank is fully cycled regular water testing becomes less important. I test nitrates regularly to make sure that my water change schedule is frequent enough but I only test ammonia and nitrite if something gives me reason to such as strange fish behaviour, illness or unexplained death. Same with pH, GH, KH... they get tested rather infrequently to make sure nothing is way out of balance but if there are any issues in the tank I'll test right away to be sure.

Are you having significant algae issues? Do you use fertilizers, co2, and what kind of lighting are on the planted tanks? Algae is often a sign of too much light.

Protip, this works amazing:

Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System, 50-Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ptMxybW8AQD8Y

I use this cheap six-layer sponge filter and a Tetra Whisper air pump. There are several styles of sponge filter so it's really your preference. Round, corner, or with suction cups to stick on the side are all about the same and would be fine in a five gallon. I like the Tetra pumps because they're a good combination of cheap, quiet, and reliable. I've had the one I linked running 24/7 for over three years with no problem. You'll probably want to get a valve for the air line so you can adjust the air flow and a check valve if you put the pump lower than the aquarium.

sponge filter

[pump for sponge filter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CDR68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QlwcAbJ0QA3RV)

heater(youll want to adjust wattage depending on how much youll be heating)

They're sold as aquarium pumps. Its the exact same pump sold by adafruit, but 40% cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/Dosing-Peristaltic-dosing-Aquarium-Analytic/dp/B00F9MXFFQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1394981750&sr=1-1&keywords=peristaltic+pump

Get a fish aquarium pump and some hose.

I think he does. High flow pump, low flow pump, quiet pump, crazy high flow pump.

Depends on what your use is I suppose, any of these can be controlled with a combination of transistors and/or relays. Can you give us any more detail?

I bought the Python water changing system. It comes with every thing you need. It comes in different sizes.

Like this.

Basically just a water pump that moved water around, but they can also be hooked up to other devices. There are many types and styles and brands.

This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6HKTN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sfLJBb1FJRD9S

http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0089KVC32/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457968706&sr=8-4&keywords=sponge+filter

Minimum Setup is only 3 items

Tank

regulator

Diffuser

That's exactly how it works.

This is the exact diffuser I have. I know the ceramic needs cleaned now and then but the tank hasn't had water in it for a week yet.

I pulled the pump out to check for blockage but it all looked good. I plan to take the diffuser apart Sunday just in case.

I also have a new pump coming that's going to triple my flow just in case the stock pump is just too weak for the diffuser.

Here's another option with a cheaper (smaller) tank, different regulator, better diffuser, and a less expensive bubble counter.

https://www.amazon.com/ZJchao-Dosing-Peristaltic-Aquarium-Analytic/dp/B00F9MXFFQ

Adjustable Air Pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CDR68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PeybBbG3WZGVG

Tubing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RbybBb2N07DFH

Also, a portable mini air pump (batteries required): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This air pump

With this sponge would work great!

You will need some airline tubing with it but I usually find that cheaper in store

What do you think of this?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MFGRLA?pc_redir=1396337037&robot_redir=1

TOM Aquarium Aqua Lifter Pump 3.5gph

I got these three things.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008TJCPSY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414104173&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MFGRLA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1414104269&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008UCOFJW/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?qid=1414104332&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I have the same one.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZDXECV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll do a full write-up later as my design and parts keep changing. For now, I'm using a model B, a SainSmart 8-channel relay, a Pi Cobbler and these pumps. The pumps are powered individually with a 12v power supply.

You think I'll need an airstone if I use this?

i'm currently using a pollen diffuser , it works wonders, the pollen honestly can serve as a bubble counter as well, as I observed the bps rate is the exact same as my bubble counter.

Stay the hell away from "sprial" glass CO2 diffusers, I have gone thru three, they're so inefficient and CO2 only gushes out of one side. This is consistent on all three I've had, tho they're all from the same manufacturer.

I have no experience with these...but look: Just read the reviews before you buy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7P8TL3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XVFQ46

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KK7YLRK

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5S617H

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P39I8U

Are you using a sponge filter like this one? ‘Cause I had a similar problem with them creating too much current. I found that if you remove the little right angled piece on the outlet so it just bubbles upwards then it solved the problem for me. I have one in a really tiny 20x20x20cm tank and it doesn’t cause enough current to disturb them

This video? That's not really a sponge filter. It's the same principle, different implementation.

If you're going to go out and buy an air pump, go ahead and get a check valve + a sponge filter with it. It's much less trouble than building it yourself.

Here's the one I'm upgrading to.

I got this regulator which has worked very well for me. It has both high and low pressure gauges, built in bubble counter, and check valve with solenoid. Last last part is key because you can put it on a timer. CO2 at night is basically useless and can potentially raise levels too high (and it decreases the frequency of needing a refill.)

Sorry for the dumb question, but i found it on Amazon with 4 sizes, 25, 50, 75, and 100
What's the difference? Is it how long the gravel tube is? or how long the water tube?

I've just got a betta, a nerite, and 6 neon tetras, and a ton of plants.

as I understand it the nerite right now is probably unhappy with that low of a PH, and I'm worried about the PH dipping low enough to stop the beneficial bacteria from processing ammonia.

I'm running a HOB filter and also a small sponge filter like This so I think I have enough aeration?