(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best aquarium water treatment products

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.
   
   No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
   
   
2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
   
   
3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.
   
   To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
   
   Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
   
   Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
   
   https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
   
   
4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
   
   
5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
   
   I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
   
   I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
   
   Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
   
   I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
   
   Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
   
   The decor is up to you and what you like.
   
   Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
   
   And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
   
   Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️

No problem! I love this kind of stuff! Neon tetras is what you had? Those are great beginners but they are kind of small. Platties are a good beginner fish that do best in groups of about 3 or 4, especially in a ten gallon. They get to be about 2-3 inches long, and come in many bright, beautiful colors! They also look really pretty when the tank is decorated! Black skirt tetras are also really hardy, and do well in groups! If you wanted variety, you could also throw in a mystery snail or two!

Tanks are pretty easy to shop for. Honestly, the best place I have found is amazon. There are two routes to take. The first is that you could buy all of the parts separately, or you could buy a kit with most of hte stuff oyu need. For beginners, I definitely reccomend getting a kit. This is a pretty good kit that runs pretty cheap! You'll also need a heater for a 10 gallon tank. I use this one because it can be placed either along the wall of the aquarium or along the bottom. You'll also need substrate, or gravel/sand for your aquarium to make it look really nice and to give good bacteria a medium to grow on! This is essentially a preference for what you want your tank to look like! I use this because I like to make my tank look pretty natural, but it is entirely up to you! The most basic rule is you need about 1 pound of substrate per gallon of aquarium. Also, you need to get a gravel vacuum to clean the gravel. I use a small one for my tank because it lets me be more precise. You'll also need some water conditioner to make your tap water safe for fish! Some people use aquarium salt in their tanks, but I've found it's not entirely necessary. You'll also want to get some plastic/silk plants for your tank! Live plants are preferable, but with a 10 gallon tank fake will be fine! Silk is usually recommended because it has less of a tendency to rip fins, but plastic works fine!

So, essentially the bare bones of what you need are:

• 10 gallon tank kit ~$70 (if you go to places like PetsMart or PetCo, you might be lucky and find one on sale for like $30-$50!)
  
• 10 gallon heater ~$15
  
• About 10 lbs of substrate or gravel ~$15-$20
  
• Water conditioner ~$12
  
• Fish food (flakes, pellets, blood worms, etc.) ~$4
  
• Gravel vacuum ~$8
  
• Decorations ~$10-$20 depending on how much you want in your tank
  
  Total: ~$130
  
  All of these prices are from Amazon and my own experience, and can vary greatly from store to store. Especially during sales and such. You might get lucky and get all of this stuff for less that $100! It really does depend on where you are and what's available around you!
  
  If you have any other questions, please let me know!

I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.


Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.

>Filter sponge is readily available, so no problems here.

You want at least two different porosities (coarse and medium or fine) but you can get 3-4. The more gradually your sponge density increases, the more efficiently your filter will remove particulate matter.

>I can only find the large rocks (40mm minimum).

The 40 isn't the worst thing in the world, you'd just get 30-40% more surface area with the smaller media.

>"Biohome stuff. Kind of like charcoal". I'll go and check which one but I'm guessing from your previous reply that regardless of which particular one it is this will suffice just fine in my filter baskets.

Biohome, Aquagrog, Seachem Matrix, Eheim Substrat or SubstratPro will all be just fine in a canister filter. There are 4-5 different types of Biohome has 3-4 different products sizes and types, your preference should be the smaller kind for optimum surface area but you don't need to go overboard hunting for it. Also remember to measure your filter baskets so you can estimate how much volume you'll need.

>Bacteria balls are tricky to find. The one place sells "Microbe Lift Special Blend" in a bottle, and the other place sells "Evolution Aqua Pure Aquarium Balls". Links on amazon for each below: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ecological-Labs-Microbe-Lift-Special-Blend/dp/B001L1R7D0/ http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Aqua-21900-Pure-Aquarium/dp/B007ISJGGQ

I've never used the bacteria balls, but I assume the premise is the same as the liquid additives that I use. We have different products available in the US, so the products that I've used or know of that work (Dr. Tim's One and Only, Tetra SafeStart, Nutrafin Cycle, etc) may not be readily available to you. Both of those products you've linked seem to have pretty good reviews so I'd think either would be fine.

>You reckon either of those bacteria solutions will be ok for me to go and pick up and use today for the purposes of kick-starting the cycle?

To start your fishless cycle you're going to have to make sure you've got your filter set up and filled with media, and you're going to want to get yourself an ammonia source. Clear ammonia (ammonia sold without perfumes, dyes, emulsifying agents etc) is probably the easiest and is usually avaialble at a hardware or department store. It should be listed as ammonia (or ammonium) hydroxide as the only ingredient (usually sold as a 5% solution). If you're unsure if you shake it in the bottle and it seems to form a foam inside the bottle it's no good for your purposes. I recommend an inorganic source of ammonia to do a fishless cycle as it's easy to determine your levels, how much to add to refresh and how much your aquarium is processing. You're also going to need a water testing kit that allows you to test pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates at a minimum. KH is also a very useful test during the cycle.

Hi there! You've probably already seen the info sheet stickied here, but also this page about the nitrogen cycle was super-helpful for me, personally. A filter is good, but it's much better if you get your tank's cycle all set up and running properly. Right now, the filter is only going to pull out debris mechanically from the water; the nitrogen cycle will help biologically remove toxins from your water column, mainly ammonia from waste and such, that can hurt Finley's quality of life.

I don't have experience with your specific filter, although as a general rule, filters included with tanks aren't always ideal... for a 3.5gal, filters like this one are pretty well-reviewed. I have used it myself on a 5.5gal, although you might want to baffle it a bit so the flow doesn't blow Finley around the tank; a sponge can be used here, or something fancier.

You'll probably want to complete a fish-in cycle to give Finley the best possible environment. As far as filter material (you can see it on the image in that filter I linked), you'll want both mechanical and biological filter media (where you beneficial bacteria colony will live). Some people also use chemical filtration, like carbon inserts, but mechanical/biological is fine for a nano tank.

Fish-in cycling is not preferable, but totally doable. I've done it, you just have to really stay on top of water changes/parameters to make sure Finley's home doesn't get too toxic for him while you're starting your cycle. I swear by Tetra SafeStart+, never had a problem kick-starting a cycle with it, but not everyone has good experiences with "bottled bacteria." Do you have a water-testing kit? This one is the most accurate/popular, I think.

I hope this helps! I was very confused in the beginning, myself, and slowly learned how everything worked with help from this sub. Let us know what else you need help with! :)

OK, Im just going to list a bunch of stuff I've purchased through this process. Nothing is in any particular order.

Almond leaves (for tannin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKTX4VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Moss - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q65TQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cholla Wood - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4FUMHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dried red Shrimp (Protein and Chitin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JCRVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Instant Ocean (1/3cup per Gallon) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ultrasonic Mister/Fogger (for DIY Fogger) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Digital Temp Humidity Controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6BZ2IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED White/Blue Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UTH (You may need to get a different size and this isn't the most recommended, but it works for me currently) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR4HLEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This one has adhesive on the back of it, so you just stick it on like a sticker.)

Cork Bark Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019J1VPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Water Conditioner - https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O

If you have any questions, please feel free. To mitigate confusion I felt just listing this as a reference first is the best approach. If you are looking for a new tank so that you can get friends, i would suggest 30 or more gallons and work towards that instead of investing into the current tank which would get changed.

Personally with the 5 i have i clearly see they need much more room than the 15 gallon they have now. I am in the process of acquiring an 85-120 gallon tank for permanency. These guys can live 20+ years with the proper care and environment. but not everyone has that freedom. 30 is a totally doable size for 3 crabs. they can grow to jumbos and be fine in there, but im sure if they reach that stage you'll be looking for another tank. Jumbos need at least 12" of substrate for molting.

10 gal is fine. I started my first SW tank a couple months ago and I got a 6 gal. Now, you will have to have to have live rock. Without it, it will be nearly impossible to have a stable tank. I suggest you get around 15 pounds. Get all the live rock you plan to have in you tank at once so your parameters don't get an ammonia spike if you have a fish inside. Aragonite sand should be fine. I would stay FOWLR (fish only with live rock) because corals are much harder. The cycle is also very similar. Set up your tank, add sand, fill with a few inches of water, add rocks and aquascape, fill up with water, add a deli shrimp, and you should be good to go. You will need some salt, a hydrometer, a good reliable heater, some lighting, a power head and test kit. And also a filter.
This is what I would get
http://amzn.com/B000260FUM
I would put the bio rings and carbon aside and replace with this,
http://amzn.com/B0002A5VK2
http://amzn.com/B004PBD4J4
Add the matrix when you start cycling, then add the purigen when you are getting fish. The reviews are speaking for the product. Purigen is simply a godsend
http://amzn.com/B00019JOSO
Go for a refractometer if you can afford it but this works fine for me as long as I tap it an there are no bubbles.
http://amzn.com/B001EUE808
The test kit.
http://amzn.com/B0036S4YZ0
This powerhead should do fine in a 10 gallon.
http://amzn.com/B003M7P9YU
This is one of the best most reliable heaters on the market. Many will fail and bake your tank but not the jagar.
http://amzn.com/B003EE5GUS
These make life a whole lot easier BN testing water or adding things like calcium. You get 10 so they should def last a while.
http://amzn.com/B008SJ1H7A
Get like 5 of these. They are extremely accurate and last around 3 months each. Wrap the wire around the tank and have one on at all times. They also help when doing water changes. You should also pick up an extra heater for water changes, via aqua and aqua top have good ones. These are made in china and sent out to companies like coralife to be package and sold for like 10 dollars, see
http://amzn.com/B0002DI4TO

Now, this is the salt I use for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B0002DJU0G
This should last you a year or two and is way cheaper then continually buying salt. I personally use tap water that has been heavily decholinated with this,
http://amzn.com/B00176CVK8
You should get your tap water tested for copper which can kill invertebrates. A 5 gallon bucket is really useful as is this siphon for water changes,
http://amzn.com/B002LL8BWU
This net is really fine and will catch most tiny debris
http://amzn.com/B008HPOCUE
You will probably find it cheaper in a store. I leave it in front of my powerhead for a hour or two every couple to days to catch debris and waste.
These tweezers help for when you don't want to get your hands wet.
http://amzn.com/B001CWDSYA
But they do start rusting after a lot of
use.
http://amzn.com/B0002E7ITK
This has been the best fish food in my experience but all fish should be fed a varied diet. This is a good staple and should be substituted with brine shrimp, mysis shrimp (frozen) and seaweed.
Not everything here is necessary, I'm just telling you what helped me make the jump to saltwater.
Here are some pics of my tank:

http://imgur.com/p3PP7X7
http://imgur.com/9kUaq1g
http://imgur.com/wtUfCb5
http://imgur.com/yl82GRn

One last thing, in a tank that size, draw a small line where you want you water level to be, when it goes below that due to evaporation, top off water. Test your salinity often in that tank. I use seachem marine buffer to deal with pH issues but chemicals and buffets should be avoided.

If you're looking for a more natural look with real plants I would highly recommend checking out Aquarium coop. Ive ordered plants from them 3 times and they always turn up bright and healthy. Plus they have a bunch of easy to take care of plants (I like my banana plant most) and they usually have a care guide for each plant. Or if you have a lfs check to see what they have. Plants like anubias, java fern, and the banana plant thus far have been super easy to take care of.

As far as decorations I currently just have a few large pieces of drift wood. I got them on Amazon, which could be a hit or miss but so far Ive gotten some good pieces. I have a 5 1/2 gallon for my betta and the two pieces I bought fit perfectly!

I also bought some catappa leaves (the mini version) just because I like the look of leaf litter in my tank, plus they add extra tannins which are good for your fishy! But they will turn your water a little brown (drift wood will too).

If you kept the water that came with the tank: do 20% water changes each day for 5 days, that way the fish will slowly acclimate to clean water, otherwise it might be stressed.

If you already are using clean water cause you threw out the old water:

1. make absolutely enough water to fill up the entire tank.
   
   
2. move the fish to a bucket
   
   
3. drain the tank, throw out or thoroughly rinse the substrate (you want to get all the crap out of it); proceed to cleaning the tank and rocks as you see fit, RO/DI or dechlorinated water only, there can absolutely not be any chlorine in the water (you are going to spend several hours scrubbing that algae off of the tank)
   
   This should clean up the tank in a major way.
   
   Im amazed the fish survived that.
   
   Also please post what other equipment came with the tank.
   
   Dont get discouraged! you are a very nice person for wanting to make a better environment for a helpless animal! :)
   
   best of luck!!!
   
   forgot to mention add an airstone and a heater to the bucket with the fish!
   
   Edit: (This is just a bonus not necessary) after you finish you may want to kickstart the bio filtration, so the fish doesnt get burned by its own ammonia, something like this will help immensely: https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-BIO-Spira-Treatment-Aquariums/dp/B003ODDS5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526508607&sr=8-1&keywords=BIO-SPIRA

Along with what the other person said, salt can be okay in small, controlled doses, OUTSIDE of their regular tank. So basically you have a second tank (can be 0.5 gallons) with the correct amount of salt completely desolved in it and you let him hang out in it for a few minutes everyday (don't quote me on this as I have never and will never try salt treatment on my boys so I don't know the exact recommendations). What I DO know, however, is that using aquarium salt in their home tank is usually not a good idea! I can (and usually will) disrupt the biofilter's stability and may lead to an ammonia spike. It's better to use something like Seachem's StressGuard which can be bought off Amazon for relatively cheap ($12 for 500ml). You can read more about in the first link I provided but basically it's almost like a liquid bandaid/neosporin but for fish. It's safe for pretty much all aquatic animals, it's safe to use with fresh and salt water tanks, it won't affect pH, and, best of all, it can safely be dosed directly into their home tank once a day.

​

This is what I used when my little Mushu's tank had an ammonia spike that I just could not get under control and basically had to start his biofilter cycle from scratch :/ he's doing much better now though!

That’s a little on the small side but it’s probably perfect for a hospital tank. You’re going to need to get a freshwater test kit ASAP to know your parameters - in the mean time you can take a sample to petsmart and they will test it for you.

What are you doing to clean the water? Do you use a conditioner? What kind of filter do you have - does it have carbon (if so you need to remove it because it will neutralize medicine)? How often do you change the water?

Velvet is parasitic and can be treated with malachite green - you’re going to need to raise your tanks temp to at least 85F since velvet is temperature sensitive so the warmer the water the easier to kill it. Be sure to treat your whole tank since everything is infected not just the fish. I also recommend getting some Indian almond leaves to help him heal and relieve stress.

As far as the bloating - have you fed him any daphnia? Frozen/live is best but if you can only find freeze dried just soak them in some tank water before feeding him. They’re like fish laxatives lol

Others can chime in on better meds or options for you with the velvet since I only know that from what I’ve read here and a quick google search.

Lookin good . my only concern is the smooth rocks on the left side falling. im sure they are more stable than it looks (pics never do justice) but for peace of mind id putty them in place for a semi permanent hold. Also a black backdrop would be nice imo :P other than that the tank looks great. i would love to see a large group of demasoni in it but thats just me :P cheers

oh boy, that's a lot of info...

Okay, I just turned the heater down a few degrees, so that's no biggie.

ATM I'm just feeding him regular betta pellets. I tried to get him to eat some blood worms, but he's having none of it (even though I made them into bite-sized pieces)

Okay, so do I need to soak betta pellets in Vitachem or Garlic Guard? Or..? I can buy either Northfin Pellets or Fluval Bug Bites, and 5-6 total is about how many he gets a day. Do I need to soak those in the Vitachem or Garlic Guard? Why should a fish fast? He normally doesn't get fed over the weekend as he's my office fish, so he goes two days without food. Is that bad?

https://www.omegasea.net/products/nutrition/frozen-bloodworms Okay, so like this one? And you're soaking it in the water to just have it melt, right?

So if I'm understanding correctly, in the AM, it's pellets soaked in Vitachem/Garlic Guard (one, not both, just not sure which one is better/I want atm so including both) and in the PM it's a small slice of the frozen food that's been defrosted. Now, all of this is just for nutrients, right? This is all related to healthy fin growth, but not specifically to treating Fin rot, right?

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116052306-StressGuard-500ml/dp/B001F0KX06 Okay, so this is the WCS, right? I've seen those Almond Leaves but was nervous about trying them without a recommendation. I might go with the Rooibos tea, as that seems slightly easier to monitor/manage? And this specifically is for treating fin rot, right?

Yup, I ordered it. Gosh dang, it all. I wish so much that my co-workers had kept him in a larger tank. Then again, this might have happened regardless of his tank size. Thanks a lot for the detailed response! =) And for answering all of my questions. I'm pretty much a fish novice, but I'm just trying to do right by the little guy.

Glutaraldehyde is used in industry as a biocide so it's literally a poison to everything from viruses to mammals. It's one of the chemicals injected during fracking to control growth of microorganisms. It's used in pulp processing to control growth of microorganisms. It's used in hospitals to sanitize things such as endoscopes. It's been studied several times as a candidate toxin to poison any hitchhiking aquatic organisms (plankton, algae, seaweed, invertebrates, and fish) in the ballast water of ships.

http://i.imgur.com/MQEf9Xv.png

There's probably a dosage low enough that no fish in any aquarium will be killed or injured. That dosage is almost certainly well below the recommended dosage. People using the recommended dosage or less have had fish in respiratory distress and even mass deaths.

It's not possible to predict when glutaraldehyde will kill fish. All that's known is that it's more toxic at higher temperatures and in environments with fewer microorganisms and organic compounds. Sulfur compounds similar to dechlorinators are used to neutralize glutaraldehyde so some tanks with residual dechlorinator may be getting what's effectively a lower dose.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Aquariums/comments/5zxynz/help_me_feel_better/

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-456-Flourish-Excel-250ml/product-reviews/B001EUE6SC

"I keep a detailed tank journal for my 29 gallon planted tank and have had it running for three years. I have tried Seachem Excel on four different occasions over the last six months in an amount less than the recommended dose for my tank size. Without exception, every time I use this product I end up find dead or dying neon tetras in my tank within a week or two of starting the dosage. I have concluded that there could be nothing else causing their deaths. I'm giving this two stars because my plants did respond well to it but whats the point if you kill fish while trying to find the correct dosage. I stopped using this and went to DIY CO2 and fish are healthy and plants are growing like weeds. BE CAREFUL when using this product with neon tetras."

"I've been following the dosage for a 50 gallon tank (I have a 60 gallon). Per the instructions, I added one capful every other day. The first few days I used this, I lost three white clouds and a threadfin rainbowfish. That number increased to four white clouds, two threadfin rainbowfish and a boesemani rainbowfish by the end of the first week. Since those particular fish were fairly new, I wasn't positive that this product was the cause. I stopped using when I bought more fish to try to reduce stress. I put in a capful last night for the first time in two weeks and found two dead white clouds this morning. I'm fairly sure this product is the cause. In the months before using it and during the two week off time, I didn't lose a single fish."

"Used this is my newly planted tank. After dosing correct amount, lost all my mollies! Have 2 cory cats, and they are fine, also my rubbernose plecto survived.One on my mollies was prego, and was excited about having babies. I was on second round of raising frys, but, now I have to start all over. This stuff is not going in my tank! Trial and error, I guess. BIG ERROR on my part. Should have researched a little further. :("

https://www.reddit.com/r/PlantedTank/comments/3xri69/flourish_excel_killing_fish/

"I should have researched this much more before putting it into my tank, but I've been losing fish when I put Flourish Excel in my tank. All my other numbers are great (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph is good), and my tank was nice and healthy. Then I put Flourish (comp) in my tank, and all was good. A few days later, I started adding Flourish Excel (slightly under the recommended dose). Overnight, I lost 2 shrimp and 2 neon tetras. I immediately tested my water to see if anything else was up, and all numbers were great. I thought maybe I'd gotten some sick fish, since the tetras were only in my tank for about a week before adding anything, and since most of what I'd read online said Excel was safe for fish as long as you're within the recommended dosage, I figured it had to be something else. The next day, I put in about 3/4 of a single dose of excel. Lost another fish that night.
So I stopped putting Excel in my tank for about 4 days, and all my fish were fine. I put in 1/2 of a dose the next day (1/2 capful, 60gal tank), and sure enough I lost another shrimp and 2 more neon tetras. Skipped the dose yesterday and today, and no lives lost.
I won't be putting Excel in my tank again, unless the rest of my fish die. I mean, if it's going to kill off any animals in my tank, might as well go for the gold if it's empty, right?"

http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/aquarium-plants/99773-flourish-excel-sensitive-fish-like-cardinals.html

"I was dosing excel the first 6 months I had my tank and my cardinals kept dying one by one. It took me a while to put 2 and 2 together but when I quit using the excel the mysterious deaths stopped. I still believe the deaths were a result of using it though only a handful of people seem to have the same idea. In the end whether it actually was or was not the excel that caused the deaths, excel is Glutaraldehyde, which is a disinfectant used in hospitals. It just didnt seem natural to me to use it. I feel better even if the fish didnt care...lol
I still keep it on hand to kill algae that pop up on rocks ( I remove them from the tank before using it)

EDIT- after dropping excel, I began using DIY CO2 which I used for awhile and had decent success with. I now use pressurized Co2 and absolutely love it."

I have many more accounts such as these.

I just treated one of my tanks for this -- I used fenbendazole powder for aquariums, bought off amazon. Its the active ingredient in many dog and cat dewormers.

I used 1/2 packet to dose 10 gallons, so split each packet accordingly - it doesnt have to be exact as its pretty harmless to fish and shrimp. Just get a little tank water in a small container like a clean pill bottle, sprinkle in the powder, and shake so it all dissolved, then pour it back into the tank. Repeat 48 hours later.

They will burrow into the substrate to try to avoid the medication, so the trick I used was to feed right before dosing the dewormer to coax them out of the substrate.

I didnt do a water change between, but you may want to in such a small tank since dead/dying planaria could cause an ammonia spike. It worked perfectly -- I havent seen a single worm since and didnt lose any shrimp, fish, or snails.

Honestly, one of the easier problems to tackle. :)

Here is a good overview of the care these guys need. Puffers are great fish but they do require a lot of work. Regular aquarium salt is not what you are looking for. I use instant ocean sea salt to make my tank water. I've had my puffers for 2 years now and they are great fish. Hopefully you can be successful with this.

Did you cycle the tank before putting them in? What are your tank parameters right now? You should really switch to a sand substrate.

Two cats, a big 'ol dog, a fish tank, and two kids. Plus a husband with horrific gas.

I'm super sensitive to certain scents, so it's really a lot of trial and error.

I've found that cinnamon or anything similar in the spicy scents works great and doesn't trigger any bad reactions from me. Apple Cinnamon is okay, but some brands are too sweet.

Febreeze puts out a Cranberry Frost around Christmas, and I stock up on that shit because it's the best.

I also fell in love with the Mulled Cider candles and wax melts from Walmart. I've got that going in a Scensty warmer almost 24/7.

I haven't tried it yet, but there's this stuff that's meant for fish tanks, but people sometimes also use it for other odors like litter boxes.

Don't apologize! We all have to learn somewhere and it's good that you asked, so we can help you out. :)

pH 8 gH 180 kH 240 = tap water, most likely. That's a low acidity and high hardness, the likes of which RO/DI systems filter out completely. If your filters were working properly, you'd read closer to pH 7, gH 0, kH 0.

You need remineralizers like the ones I mentioned earlier because once you get new filters and install them, they're going to take all minerals out of the water, which puts water in an "unnatural" state -- it becomes "hungry" water. If you water change with nonmineralized RO/DI, it's eventually going to cause the water to leech the nutrients out of the fish and plants, which will trigger osmotic shock when the equilibrium maintained by the fish in their skin becomes unbalanced.

Luckily, you haven't been using true RO/DI, so your fish should be OK (reliant on if you've still been using Prime or some other dechlorinator to treat your water before). But in the future, remember! Make RO/DI -> Remineralize -> Acclimate Temp -> Water change!

Links to the Remineralizers that I mentioned:

Salty Shrimp gH/kH+

Kent RO Right

)

Well thats scary as hell. If people are euthanizing tanks with it it must be crazy hard to beat. I dont know much about it, but seriously good luck.


Last thing that MAY help, Im totally not sure though. They're worms right? Parasites? If so you can pick up [this]http://www.amazon.com/Bendazole-250mg-Fenbendazole-Powder-packets/dp/B009TAQ4OI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412396405&sr=8-2&keywords=fenbendazole) stuff. It works great on parasitical worms and free swimming. I used it for all sorts of random bugs I found in my shrimp tanks. They dont harm shrimp or snails, and obv. not fish. You can feed it to them through their food if its parasitical or dose in water column.

It sounds like your on the right path. I would dose prime on days your not water changing tho just to detoxify the ammonia. Would also pick up some kind of bacteria in a bottle I’ve had great success with tetra safe start plus another option is seachem stability

Good luck

Hm. Maybe, I would start by using Stressguard and doing daily water changes, hopefully that will fix the fin and open wound looking thing problem. Stressguard is an antiseptic, it can help prevent infection and heal wounds. It can also relieve some stress in fish. The daily water changes are to keep ammonia levels down, which I am gonna guess you have some just because of the whole filter switch and monthly water change thing - and its okay! Easy fix on that - fish-in cycling.

Basically the fish-in cycling process consists of 50% water changes daily using Seachem Prime (preferably). Do this until your tank is cycled! Which the best way to check would be with the API master test kit, I already explained why in the other post :P

When the tank is cycled, you’ll test and find 0 parts per million (ppm) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and ‘x’ amount ppm of nitrate. (Dont focus too hard on what parts per million means, its just how this stuff is measured. Nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, they arent as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but can be in large amounts.)

After your tank is cycled, you’ll need to do weekly water changes of 15-25% using a gravel vacuum preferably. Gravel vacuum/siphons allow you to get the dirt out of the gravel easily without needing to take it out. Highly recommend getting one of these! Its a necessity!

And as I already mentioned: Avoid large water changes, it could offset the balance of your tank. Never rinse the filter media in tap water, that can kill the beneficial bacteria too. And then to clean the filter, which I already said that too but ya know, just swish/squeeze out in old tank water - this preserves it better!

Im gonna include links to nitrogen cycle info so you can really familiarize yourself with it! And a link to how to fish-in cycle :) Also to the API master kit and Seachem Prime. Prime is a dechlorinater that also detoxes ammonia and nitrite for 24 hours. You can use this to dechlorinate new water, then dose the rest of the tank to make it safe for your boy after daily water changes!

Information:

Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/

Fish-In Cycling: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

My diagram/explanation on the cycle:https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Supplies:

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K

Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K

Seachem StressGuard Slime Coat Protection - Stress and Toxic Ammonia Reducer 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F0KX06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vtVXDb4X69VQK

>We've bonded. It's staying.

Had me laughing in the office and getting strange looks from purchasing! It stays indeed!

As far as regulators go, some people swear by the fancy-ass ones. Personally, I think entry-level offerings are just fine. Aquatek makes some of the best bang-for-your-buck offerings on the market, and their entry level one on Amazon is pretty fantastic considering it's less than $100. I have their paintball regulator on my 22g and the needle valve is great, the solenoid works as intended and I've had no issues with the regulator/gauges at all.

The Background:


My tentative setup right now has a two gallon reservoir watering a three gallon Smart Pot. I have a 5-10 gal fish tank filter that I've also added an [activated carbon/ammonia neutralizing crystal] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002566YM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) filter and leveled filter to. I let my water set at room temperature (cycling through the filter) for several days before giving it to the plant. The water is exposed to 388 watts (~84,000lm) of warm and cool white LEDs in a Carbon Dioxide rich environment with filtered airflow.

My city water report is as follows, with ideal levels, followed by current city water levels:

• Haloacetic Acids (HAA5)(ppb): <60, 25.1
  
• Bromate (ppb): <10, 1.8
  
• Total Organic Carbon (% Removal): TT, 52.57
  
• Barium (ppm): <2, 0.3
  
• Flouride (ppm): <4, 0.7
  
• Nitrate [measured as Nitrogen] (ppm): <10, 2.4
  
• Sodium (ppm): MPL, 16
  
• Thallium (ppb): <2, 0.8
  
• Alpha emitters (pCi/L): <15, 4.7
  
• Uranium (ug/L): <30, 1.4
  
• Copper (ppm): <1.3, 0.257
  
• Lead (ppb): <15, 0.003
  
  I presume the Haloacetic Acids are the chlorine they use in the water treatment.
  
  The Questions:
  
  
• My hope is that the Chlorine will evaporate off over a few days, and that the filters I have will grab onto other problematic elements. Is this reasonable to assume?
  
• Should I add anything to my water (pH balance, nutrients, things to help filter contaminants)?
  
• How will temperature of water affect my plants? Should I try to cool or warm it before being added to the grow?
  
• Does light have any effect on water (or microbial life in the water)? Is it just UV, or can wide spectrum or white lights also have an effect?
  
  
  

So I'm thinking a complete start over would probably be the best, there's just so much algae, and crud in the tank that I think I'd never get it all. O_o. So here's what I'm thinking, does it seem like a good plan of action?

I haven't done anything to the water that was in the tank, and since freaking the fish out would be bad, I was thinking that I could get a 5 gallon bucket andpull out enough of the old water to put my clownfish in, then add an air stone and a heater.

Then I'd head over to the fish store and buy 100 gallons of water (they have the gear to make saltwater, I don't) and pull everything out of the tank. As suggested in another post, I figure I'll dip the reef rock in muriatic acid bleach to clean them, and then put them in some saltwater with no light for a month or so. I will also buy a couple of new pieces of live rock to help seed the clean dry rock.

Then I'd scrub the tank clean, using a scrub brush, and some clean (not tap) water, clean up the filter (and change the filter inserts), scrub the skimmer and heater and current makers, then add the new water, some substrate, and the stuff that you linked to.

Then after the month, pull my reef rocks out of the dark bucket, and reintroduce them to the aquarium. I figure by then my ecosystem would be pretty prime to reintroduce the rock.

Does this seem like a good plan? Any things you'd change about it? I really wanna get this right. My clownfish needs his home cleaned up. Plus I really want a beautiful reef tank.

EDIT Decided against using acid to kill the rocks, but will use bleach. I've read that a 10:1 ratio is good for a few days, will probably soak in bleach water for 3 days, then pull rock out, refresh the bleach water, then soak again for 3 days, then let bake in the heat of the sun for a week to dry it out, then put it in salt water with Bio-Spira to get it back to living rock.

First of all you started completely wrong.
When beginning or establishing a tank put the water with benificial bacteria in the tank and let your filter run for around 6 weeks after which you do every 2 weeks a 25% water change. This is the way and only way to establish a tank with beneficial bacteria. Your pet store sucks for not telling you this.

You went completely past this and also loaded fish in there. I advise you to at least do 25% water changes on a weekly basis for 2 months to make sure your remaining fish survive. Do not put new fish or frogs in there.

Help your fish by putting some live plants in there, which will give the water extra oxygen.

To dechlorine your water I advise purchasing this:
Fluval Water Conditioner for Aquariums, 16.9-Ounce
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G25IA6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Rg59AbEMZBXK3

And throw this in with every water change as well:
Hagen Fluval Biological Enhancer/Booster for Aquariums, 16.9-Ounce

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G25IAN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tg59Ab7VYSB3R

To fight nitrate I advise you buy some “live Marimo balls” and just put them in there. It’s not going to absorb all the nitrate but it helps and is beautiful.

Google is your friend and do research.
You’ll get there

Just to be sure! In the future you will need to clean your filter as well. Never ever do this with tap water, because you then open the gates of hell upon your fish. When cleaning your filter always do this with water you took out of your tank.

Here's my suggested shopping list:

The API Water Testing Kit - about $22 at Amazon, might be more expensive at a pet shop

Indian Almond Leaves - ($7) I put in a fresh 1/4 a leaf each week

VitaChem - ($11) vitamin drops to help with color and fins - a drop a day and he'll swim around and hunt for the vitamin specs

Polisher Filter - ($3) Use scissors and cut a couple of chunks for the back compartment in the Marineland tank. It helps slow the flow down a little and kept the water super clean.

yeah excel would melt the java fern as well. If you want a good carpet you should go with more light, and a walstad tank or a co2 system. co2 can be daunting at first, but I have this regulator and it works very well for me. depending on what type of filter you have you need to pick a diffusor, and with a tank you are technically ready to go. I upgraded my bubble counter to a JBJ style and got a drop checker for safety but those are optional.

Set up for TWO Axolotls

Realistic initial set up cost $145
(Not including cost of axolotls)

$5-$150 30g tank MINIMUM preferably 40+ (OfferUp Facebook groups Craigslist pet stores)

$1-$130Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 for each (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$75 Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump (link of canister filter is what I use in my 55g tank )

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

SUN 4-Stage Aquarium External Canister Filter with 9 Watt UV Sterilizer 264GPH (HW402B with Pro Filter Kits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFCS6W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CVv7AbX67HQED

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle it helps keeps the water healthy for the axolotls too

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 100 Gallon, 250-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

Ive had more success with salt and heat method, you could alway get a bucket and transfer the fish in it if you are really worried about the plants(mine didn't seem to have any issue, but i would definitely quarantine the hatchet in some container or bucket ive tried lots of products like ich ex and had no results (with german rams, they get a super resistant kind of ich).

Another thing I've used this one in the past and it really helped doesn't harm anything but would still use with heat treatment(it accelerates the cycle of ich): Fish Bendazole 250mg Fenbendazole Powder (3 packets) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TAQ4OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pMblxbVTD7WG1

>Dosing with a nutritious substrate will extend the life of the substrate, but you should be good for a few months.

Good for a few months? What?

>You may try to get some water softener. I think API makes some.

I'll check it out.

Edit: Found it here - but how is it used? it looks like something that would go in the filter?

You can get it on Amazon. Here's a link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009TAQ4OI?pc_redir=1409142079&robot_redir=1

There are mineralization products you can buy on Amazon as well to help with GH. I didn't buy it though. I have a friend with hard water, I just got water from her.

www.planetinverts.com is a great source of info and they have a dosing schedule for the fenbendazole.


I don't mind questions. :-)

I had the same problem. Get Safe Conditioner.

Safe, 250 g / 8.8 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_SYQDwb8051K3C

This stuff is amazing and it's super cheap!!!

I wouldnt use epoxy, thats pretty volatile. You may be better of using some silicone sealant. I think that would be safer to be sitting in water for long periods. Don't want any chemicals leeching into your herbs.
edit:something like this aquarium sealant may do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/All-Glass-Aquarium-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B0002ASD34

Filter has been thoroughly cleaned with water and bleach and I'm going to replace the media as previously discussed.

Only trouble is I don't want to rely on Christmas Postage so I'm going to try and source what I need from my LFS.

Filter sponge is readily available, so no problems here.

Alphagrog I can only find the large rocks (40mm minimum). I have found a place that sells, and I quote the guy over the phone, "Biohome stuff. Kind of like charcoal". I'll go and check which one but I'm guessing from your previous reply that regardless of which particular one it is this will suffice just fine in my filter baskets.

Bacteria balls are tricky to find. The one place sells "Microbe Lift Special Blend" in a bottle, and the other place sells "Evolution Aqua Pure Aquarium Balls". Links on amazon for each below:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ecological-Labs-Microbe-Lift-Special-Blend/dp/B001L1R7D0/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Aqua-21900-Pure-Aquarium/dp/B007ISJGGQ

You reckon either of those bacteria solutions will be ok for me to go and pick up and use today for the purposes of kick-starting the cycle?

I live in a dorm, so our utilities are already paid for, and yeah, it would be pretty inefficient. Do you recommend the buffering pads or anything like that?

What is fairly cheap in R/O terms?

Screw undergravel filters and you don't need a sump. The 2 HOBs should be good for a while if they combine to exceed 100gph. You can upgrade to a canister filter later on if the need arises. Personally I like having 2 filters running incase one fails/jams, the other can continue to circulate water at least.

As for the transfer:
Put the new filter in the old tank and begin running it along with the other 2, also take some of your old media from the established filters and add it to the new ones filtermedia compartment.

Fill 75g with rinsed substrate and decor/plants. And Slowly add water so as to not disturb the substrate (preventing cloudiness)

Once filled, transfer an old HOB into the new tank to continue the tank cycling, youll probably encounter a mini cycle at first so dont add fish for at least a week or more. If your antsy about moving all the fish asap then I thoroughly recommend getting a can of this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-PA0392-Activated-Neutralizing-1417-Gram/dp/B0002566YM

And adding it, in a mesh sack, to your HOB filter. (To be replaced weekly until your cycle is complete, about a month)

Please be specific about further questions you need answered.

The fish will have to stay in the 10g tank until its safe to put them back into the larger tank. The filter has not been cycled. I understand that its not optimal but it is not safe for them to be in the 55g at this time. Its a choice between the lesser of two evils.

Would something like : http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77961-SafeStart-3-38-Ounce-gallons/dp/B002DZG1BW

Assist in making the 10g tank livable until the 55g gets its act together?

• • • • • 
          
          So far with the 55g tank this has been its life.
          
          Potting Mix covered with blasting sand (rinsed). Heavily planted on day 1 and added more on day 2 and 3. ~60% coverage.
          
          Waited ~14 days and added 7 cherry barbs.
          
          Monitoring the values in the tank and found a small increase in nitrate and nitrites but okay values until this morning.
          
          I have not dosed with any chemicals other than water conditioner during daily ~5-10% water changes.

If you are going to be using a pressurized CO2 system (i.e. paintball tank, not yeast), you do need an adapter like the one you posted. It adapts the smaller diameter paintball threads to the US standard CGA320 you'll find on a regulator.

If you want, the same company that makes the adapter you linked also makes a regulator/needle valve/solenoid/bubble counter already put together. Here.

After that system, yes you would need a diffuser (or alternatively, introduce the CO2 into a canister filter or a CO2 reactor). Otherwise, you'd be good to go. You might want a drop checker as well to determine CO2 use.

As far as your dechlorinator goes, check out Seachem Safe in place of Seachem Prime. It is essentially the powdered form of Prime so it is more concentrated and lasts forever. That 250g container treats something insane like 50,000 gallons of water where the 500mL bottle of prime treats 5,000. And this is by no means essential but the Python water changer is an amazing tool and has made water changes so much easier and less stressful. As far as substrate if you go with sand I would use pool filter sand, you can get a 50lb bag at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $6. I use it in all of my tanks with no issue. I have read that the play sand can be quite a bit messier and take longer to settle, though I have no personal experience with it. Good luck!

Those are definitely Camallanus worms OO. If you have a quarantine tank, I suggest you get one and put the guppy in it. Then try this medication: http://www.amazon.com/Bendazole-250mg-Fenbendazole-Powder-packets/dp/B009TAQ4OI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00.

The worms and the eggs can easily infect water, so also do water changes in the main tank.

Here's a good article: http://www.fishlore.com/fishforum/freshwater-fish-disease/41023-how-get-rid-camallanus-nematode-worms.html

i have only a basic version (my first 30g tank and i didnt want to go wild hahah) but yea there was a a review on youtube with my basic aquatek and it was pushing 30psi-45psi with an atomic+, and to use a atomic you need a 30psi coming from one of the people from GLA emailing me. (maybe they were just trying to make me buy one of their regulator)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041YLM7G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is regulator i have

The only hing I found was this.

But basically you should be treating any water you don't know, as if it had chlorine in it, unless you know for sure it doesn't.

I think you'd be better served buying something like this instead.

Sorry, not in front of a computer, but I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002566YM?pc_redir=1406850328&robot_redir=1

Looks like it's something blended with the carbon to specifically help with removing ammonia. I got mine at Petco.

I'm officially stumped. It's possible your water source doesn't have the typical levels of nitrifying bacteria you're trying to cultivate. I know folks are saying to be patient, that cycling can take over a month and that's true, but I'm not sure more patience will help. Your ammonia should have started converting by now.

If it were me, I'd switch gears and go the Tetra Safe Start Plus route. I'd shake it hard and use the whole bottle. Here's some info on how to use it in a fishless cycle.

This depends on the type of aquarium maintained, reef systems can easily exceed double or triple the above mentioned cost, depending on gallon size. Salt can be found for cheaper online ( IE 50 gallon bag for ~$14, however it is nowhere as convenient as individually measured bags http://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-Sea-Salt-50-Gallon/dp/B000255NKA)

Distilled water can be replaced with any from a Reverse Osmosis system (Some houses have this and it's basically free)

So there are definitely some cost-saving abilities here.

Yeah, I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Silicone-Sealant-10-ounce-Clear/dp/B0002ASD34/ref=sr_1_4?crid=22X5GZ1M1F7PZ&keywords=fish+tank+silicone+sealant&qid=1563417265&s=gateway&sprefix=fish+tank+sili%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-4 It's a little on the pricey side but fish tanks are never cheap either way lol and I myself have used it before and it has worked. If you're looking for a cheaper alternative maybe look at the ingredients and see what other products have close-to the same stuff in it

Technically the same thing. Honestly though just go with almond leaves. If you can't find them at your LFS, I'm sure you could find them online for cheaper than the Amazon price.

Many will probably disagree with me, but I was having this exact issue until I bought some Fluval Cycle and dosed it per directions for 3 days.

I waited another week to be safe and sure enough I saw my Nitrates rise and Nitrites slowly fade away to 0.

Urine aside.... what was ammonia at initially after adding the.... urine...? Was it higher than 3 ppm? 11 days isn't overly long. I used powdered ammonium to start a cycle recently and ended up with 8 ppm! Took almost 4 weeks drop to 0 ppm, and about 2 weeks before seeing any movement. What did add for beneficial bacteria? Something like this?

I've made acrylic shelves in glass fish tanks before.

Make sure you're using the right type of silicone. Something like Aqueon. Regular silicone caulk won't cut it.

Aqueon Silicone Aquarium Sealant (10.3 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ASD34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tWgoDbPE8BVVB

Also, be VERY careful about wedging the shelf in. Even a little outward pressure combined with some vibration and you can end up with a cracked tank.

Seachem Excel. It's liquid carbon. Amazon, you can spot treat with a pipette.

http://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bio-Pure-Freeze-Dried-0-42-Ounce/dp/B00025K1GQ

yeah this guy.

and the medicine I bought is this one

http://www.amazon.com/Bendazole-250mg-Fenbendazole-Powder-packets/dp/B009TAQ4OI

while I wait for

https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=30e0794a-7b6a-11d5-a192-00b0d0204ae5&sfb=1&itemguid=01d28703-f468-4936-b5b3-835643a1be34&utm_content=16572&ccd=IFF003&mr:trackingCode=4605A364-3C81-E211-BA78-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=41691845323&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:tid=pla-86672856283&mr:ploc=9031328&mr:iloc=&mr:store=&mr:filter=86672856283&gclid=COLLt-Cq5MsCFQqIfgodeagKIw

) some details!

Yeah I just got the programmable heater, currently calibrating it because it’s off by 5 degrees, but I am now realizing how severely inadequate the preset one I was using before was. My tank was at around 74-75 im slowly raising it to 80 and my fish is actually loving it (he loves the heater right now that it’s heating lol).

Also, I ordered these, [ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G78H5XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-cvKDb5XTDTQA ]or should I have gotten other types of leaves?

Maybe use something like this?

Tetra Aquarium Safe Start Bacteria for Aquariums, 3.38 oz - 77965 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N26P856/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ePKRCbKFFTCYZ

A PH of 7-8 is pretty normal.

When you're talking about Alkalinity, I'm assuming you're referencing dGH because you used '300' which I took to mean 300ppm. This is 'moderately hard' water.

These aren't really that bad. It really depends on where your tank stock comes from. Amazonians will typically want softer, more acidic water, while Africans like hard, alkaline water. Plants should not care about these levels in any way unless it's something odd or your talking about higher dGH levels or PHs outside of 6.5-8.5

If you're really bent on lowering both stats, you can probably accomplish this simply by using a Water pillow.

http://www.amazon.com/API-Water-Softener-Pillow-Size/dp/B002DW0GQQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1463182388&sr=1-1&keywords=aquarium+water+softener

These are infinitely reusable, they recharge just by soaking them in salt water for 24 hours. They will lower your general hardness incrementally each time you use them. (just stuff them into your filter...they are small). As your dGH lowers, it will also reduce the buffering capacity of your tank, which because of the driftwood and alder cones, your PH will go down over time as well.

You could also soften the water & lower the PH by doing a water change with RO water instead of tap water. RO water is >extremely< soft and acid. I'd only recommend doing maybe 10% at a time if you try this.

Caution: lowering your dGH can mean you will have the potential of PH swings as well. So carefully consider how much you really want to lower it by.

(http://www.amazon.com/All-Glass-Aquarium-AAG65010-10-3-Ounce/dp/B0002ASD34/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414029777&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+sealant)


That's exactly what I got and it worked great. Just let a little bit harden on the tip and I can use it again.

I had great results using and piece of shrimp and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ODDS5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to cycle my tank when I started it back up.

All your perimeters right(ph, gh/kh)? I had a really hard time keeping shrimp in my old 5g, my colony would never get above 15 and would dip to 6 sometimes. I was using plain gravel and hard tap water. PH was a little high, gh/kh were unbalanced.

I Swapped out to a new tank with fluval stratum (soil, buffers the PH), remineralizing RO (filtered) water, and now my shrimp breed like crazy.

Also, with a beta you would want to make sure there are moss/plants and other places for the shrimp to hide out (ceramic tubes maybe)

Whelp, from one newer shrimp keeper to another I hope this helps you out.

You can coat the inside of the hide with waterproof epoxy, like the kind used for aquarium repair. That would take care of any roughness.

Keep using the Prime and doing 10% water changes. I did the same thing setting up my 10g and doing a fish-in cycle. I ended up losing half my fish, and it took nearly 2 months for my numbers to level out. You can also try safe start.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E2RI74?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I've used this with varying degrees of success, in several tanks.

Bacteria balls - these will speed boost the good bacteria and clear up that bad bacteria bloom you currently have causing that milky water. This can take a week or 2 for the bad bacteria to die off and the good bacteria takes over.

Evolution Aqua Pure Aquarium https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007ISJGGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SR1TCbQJDFPPD

Don't but things like "crystal clear aquarium water by clumping the small stuff blah blah" these are usually only good later on when you have a little excess food hanging around in the water.

Depending on the size of your setup, you may be able to do it in a week or so with this: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Aquarium-Start-Bacteria-Aquariums/dp/B00N26P856 (Amazon price is a bit high, I got this bottle for $3 at walmart)
My small 40 gallon setup cycled in around 5 days with 2 bottles of this added as well as ammonia daily. Larger setups will definitely take longer.

That is awesome! I need to get my wife on Facebook more often ;)

Question: Are the two large pieces of limestone (left side of the tank) attached? I'd worry about the top piece sliding/falling and possibly cracking the glass.

I just set up my own 55 gallon tank for African cichlids and used Instant Ocean HoldFast to connect some of the larger/more unstable pieces together.

Here's a picture of my tank.

Sure! I got mine from amazon, the brand is SunGrow. . I always rinse them and then soak them before adding them to the tank.

It's a liquid fert. Apparently the Aquarium Co-op one is really good too.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116045605-Flourish-Excel-250ml/dp/B001EUE6SC/ref=asc_df_B001EUE6SC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167116240456&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16224612185672101258&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003862&hvtargid=pla-362740444287&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002566WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421005230&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41UaltM8m%2BL&ref=plSrch.
This one is for clear water


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002566YM/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SS115&simLd=1
This one is for ammonia and much cheaper

I was thinking about the RO water but I am not sure what to remineralize it with?

Also any recommendations for almond leaves or would this do. I would break them up because those are huge.

Actually this might be better.

Holdfast is probably a better choice.

I guess that's a common term. Here's what I meant.

Safe, 250 g / 8.8 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l.JRDbE45Y2J6 just ordered this instead of more prime because everyone I talked to about it says it lasts longer and does the same thing, what do you think about it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TAQ4OI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What i used, worked quick and easy.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HZLUGSI/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_0_2975478011_1?

Yes, I purchased them from Amazon

sorry about that, Here is the tank and here is the regulator I have. Thanks in advance

Look through some to see which you like. Here's an example of one that works per 20 gallons.

Is the Fruval starter bacteria? If so, you'll still need to add a water conditioner to remove Chlorine and Chloramines from the water. I don't know much about sorority tanks but from what I read here you need to have enough girls to establish a pecking order and 2 wouldn't be enough. From what I read you'd want to have at least 3 together to have a proper hierarchy.

EDIT: is this what you added? That is a water conditioner too!

Looks like I can get this 48x96 sheet of 1/2 inch PVC board to make an enclosure with max dimensions of 24d x 48w x 24h though 24 inches high might be a little bit excessive. I was going to seal the edges with aquarium grade [silicone sealant]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ASD34/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495836754&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+safe+silicone) . And then cut grooves in the top and bottom for sliding door glass.

Amazon! I ordered these ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HG1TMIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510297047&sr=8-6&keywords=almond+leaves&dpPl=1&dpID=51rKoAFt3GL&ref=plSrch

get water dechlorinator n from the pet store something like https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-AquaSafe-Conditioner-Dechlorinator-33-8-Ounce/dp/B00176CVK8 this but any brand works.

Does his fins get sucked into the filter intake? If it's a HoB filter, you could put a pre-filter sponge over the intake to prevent his tail getting sucked in. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/intake-sponges

Also please don't take your water samples into the petstore for testing; please grab yourself a https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ - This should be in every aquarium keeper's toolkit, 800 accurate liquid drop tests to check conveniently at home for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrAte.

Seachem StressGuard to help him heal up, as well as Vitachem Freshwater: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116052306-StressGuard-500ml/dp/B001F0KX06/ and https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Enterprises-ABE16708-Freshwater-Vitachem/dp/B00BS96V78/

You can use liquid co2 much cheaper entry than a pressurized setup, but daily dosing.

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116045605-Flourish-Excel-250ml/dp/B001EUE6SC

I'm going to say this honestly as someone who has invested time and energy into diy co2

Get this thing

Or something similar. by the time you buy all the ingredients and make trips to the store, buy the exacto-knives to cut your holes. you're already investing a lot of time and money into something that's only going to cause you hassle and inconsistent results in the long run. (inconsistant co2 is what gives you black beard algae BTW)

IMO bought their paintball regulator and I would never go back.

As to answer your question I don't remember how I did any of the specifics, this video is a goldmine of information though

Amazon.ca, as always. I didn't see it anywhere in LFS.

Yup! It’s this stuff here, you should be able to find it at Petsmart/Petco too.
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116052306-StressGuard-500ml/dp/B001F0KX06?th=1&psc=1

Use Fenb, snail removal not necessary.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Laboratories-Bendazole-Fenbendazole-packets/dp/B009TAQ4OI/ref=pd_bxgy_199_3/139-5593703-8917208?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009TAQ4OI&pd_rd_r=febf4bda-3dad-48ec-924f-a69a38d737f8&pd_rd_w=WqxRt&pd_rd_wg=fbs6L&pf_rd_p=479b6a22-70ae-47a0-9700-731033f96ce8&pf_rd_r=B16P14YB4K0B100N2HZ4&psc=1&refRID=B16P14YB4K0B100N2HZ4

Depending on what you are trying to glue I would advise silicon 1 or this for fastening objects inside the tank together.

I haven’t bought them yet and was actually just researching so I can’t speak from personal experience but I’m looking at these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G78H5XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ebKxCb3C1ACF1

Step 1

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-HoldFast-Aquarium-HF-1/dp/B001JSXBYO

Works as expected for me.

I'll be buying this next month ~$80 for what your looking for not bad.. plus it's NEW


http://www.amazon.com/Basic-AQUATEK-Regulator-TOUCH-SOLENOID/dp/B0041YLM7G

https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-BIO-Spira-Treatment-Aquariums/dp/B003ODDS5E
Seems there are two items called bio spira

I got u fam

Instant Ocean Sea Salt for Marine Aquariums, Nitrate & Phosphate-Free, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACFUDbPR2S8NK

There ya go. Under $15.

Might be too late but this works well for internal parasites in conjunction with seachem entice and focus: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009TAQ4OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1406074019&sr=8-1

These mini Catappa leaves are the ones that caused the growth

I ordered them twice and got the same result.

Edit: this is the stuff I bought that grew some weird stuff, so I reccomend that it's bound before added.

The hardest part will probably be finding the right glass to start with. The stuff they carry at hardware stores is often thinner than you want. I usually just cannibalize another tank for these kinds of things -- cracked tanks are often free on Craigslist.

The google machine can tell you how to cut glass, it's not too hard. You can get a hand glass-cutting tool at the hardware store, which is like a tiny pizza cutter that you run along the glass where you want to make the cut (guide it with a ruler). This scores the glass so that it can be snapped along the scored line.

You'll want some clamps and thin flat boards, so that you can clamp the glass sheet between the work surface and a board (with the strip you want to cut off hanging over the edge) and clamp some boards around the strip you want to cut off so that you can apply even pressure along the length of the strip. If your score was clean and your clamps are right, you should be able to press down on the board-sandwiched strip and cleanly snap it off. Once you have your strips, stick them on with some silicone. I've used regular GE silicone (without the mold-inhibitor) but this is probably better.

The glass cutting and silicone-applying will take practice. Practice joining glass scraps with the caulk before you try it on the tank. Shit's a mess, and if gets smeared outside the seam, it's a major pain to remove, even while wet.

My town has a city well with impossibly hard water. The running joke in my house is, if you need concrete fill a bucket and wait a minute. I haven’t tested it myself but on the cities last test it was 670 mg/l. As a result my tap water has a pH north of 8.2.

I bought these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G78H5XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z00gAbQJN6ZCP but they’re not making a dent. Should I add more? Get more serious? Ignore it and hope he adapts?

Edit: I should probably have mentioned that I’m doing a fish-in cycle. My betta wasn’t a complete impulse, but it was enough of one that I didn’t know about cycling. I’m on the downward side of the nitrite spike right now. I didn’t want to share a picture of him earlier because ... shameful pet caretaker.

In addition to vacuuming, stop over-feeding or just feed less for a week or three. You could also tr this chemical. I had nematode worms really bad and a couple doses of this stuff mostly wiped them out. I ended up tearing down the tank a couple weeks later but the worms still haven't come back yet.

Hey i don't know what part broke off of it. If you don't mind your piece looking a bit a shabby you can get aquarium putty epoxy, and that should seal that hole up. Also its non-toxic so you don't have to worry about it poisoning you.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=TL1613&child=TL1617&utm_source=adwordsfroogle&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=adwordsfroogle&utm_content=TL1617&gclid=CLTvy7Ss-bgCFdGj4AodDBkAXg

http://www.amazon.com/Instant-Ocean-HF-1-HoldFast-Aquariums/dp/B001JSXBYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376360036&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+epoxy

It doesn't have to be either of these specifically but they could work.

Which brand did you get on Amazon? I purchased these but haven't used them yet. I got a bit apprehensive from some of the scary reviews.

This stuff is notoriously hard to get rid of. Urine contains urea. Lots of nitrogen. As it gets broken down by bacteria it releases ammonia, which is what you are smelling.

Normally I'd just remove the carpet and any soiled underlayment as well, but since that's not an option I would look for some way to remove the ammonia.

One option would be to set up an air filtration system right near the source. Personally I'd probably build one. Would need a water reservoir, an pump and some of this stuff. Suck in the air near the source of the odor and run it through water. Ammonia is water soluble so it'll get trapped in the water and then absorbed via the activated carbon/ammonia absorbed crystal stuff.

Possibly worth taking that stuff, mashing it into a fine powder, mixing with water and applying directly to carpet.

If you're not handy with the DIY stuff you could probably find premade water based air filter system and add the mix to it.