Reddit mentions: The best archery arrows & parts

You have a lot of options to go on the cheap. I mean actually cheap. They won't feel premium or awe inspiring but you can still get quite good (I'm currently retraining myself to use thumb, so I have both those bows below but I have the 18lbs version of the snake)
You can try the famous Snake Bow, or the Youth Titan Bow, Both capable of being drawn to 31" safely, both capable of shooting on the left or right side. Perfect for finding your particular style before choosing better equipment. Both have a reputation of being tanks in terms of durability.

I recommend This armguard

As for arrows, there are a lot of amazon sellers, with 25~30lbs being the kind of weight you want to start with, most of the sellers on amazon give you okay-ish arrows to start, I wouldn't get the cheapest option but if I had to choose, I'd get these. Do not expect to be splitting arrows though.


If you chose those 3 options, that's about 100$ leaving 50$ for a tab, back quiver or target bag. Tab/target bag should be the higher priority, all 3 would be best.


These bows and arrows I linked are for, real budget entry level "I've never shot a bow before" archers. Easy enough to pull, forgiving and more forgiving on the wallet.

​

At least I think so.

I know this may be a bit late but heres what I do since I'm on a budget. I got an 80 lb crossbow pistol off amazon for pretty cheap, needs to be the one with a rail on the bottom. A 40 dollar push button bow fishing reel from zebco and these things . all in all, ran me around 140 or 150, but, works really well. also, to attach the reel to the crossbow you'll need zipties, around 10 or so to make it nice and stable. hope this isn't too late and I hope it helps

There are two types of reels she could get him; a bottle style reel or a spincast style reel. Either one will work, it's just a matter of personal preference.

The bottle style reels are mounted on the side of the riser where the sight would usually go, and the spincast style reels are mounted on the front of the bow where the stabilizer goes. If you do get a spincast style reel, you should note two things:

• 1.) Most of them will need a reel seat to be mounted to; the Muzzy reel I linked to above comes with everything you need to mount it in the box, because the reel seat is built in to the reel.
  
  
• and 2.) You can't use the same kind of line that a bottle style reel uses. Most spincast reels come prespooled with line though, so as long as he buys the same kind when he eventually replaces the line, he'll be fine.
  
  RE: arrows - the only ones I wouldn't recommend are the hollow carbon fiber ones. I've just heard too many stories of them breaking when you hit a rock or stump to have faith in them, and they're more expensive. I stick with the solid fiberglass arrows, like this or this.
  
  RE: tips - it kind of depends on what he's fishing for, and again what his personal preference is. There are two-barb points like the Muzzy quick release, and there are three-barb points like the AMS 3 barb grapple. The two-barb point requires that the tip just be loosened to release the fish, while the three barb point I linked to here requires the tip to be unscrewed completely to remove the fish. Innerloc also makes a good three barb head.
  
  Soooo this got pretty long, but it was kind of fun to write up because I love talking about bowfishing. Hope it helps? LMK if not, happy to clarify anything.

1. That looks like it's hitting something when you release. I know people here have said that shooting vanes off of a recurve works just fine, but a plastic feather would probably stop that from happening. I can't see what kind of rest that bow comes with to really tell.
   
   
2. Nice arrows that are fully ready to go are going to be hard to find for less than $5 per arrow. You can always go the cheap route and try these: http://www.amazon.com/Shiny-Fiberglass-Target-Practice-Arrows/dp/B004LETSIG/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1369759329&sr=1-2&keywords=arrows+dozen
   or these: http://www.amazon.com/Shiny-Black-Fiberglass-Target-Practice/dp/B004LR1SVI/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1369759600&sr=1-3&keywords=arrows+dozen
   
   
3. Save up your pennies and spend a little more on your bow. If you can save up $70, you can wait a little longer and save up $130 for the Samick Sage that guys here seem to rave about.
   
   
4. That arrow rest will work on a recurve bow since it is non-mechanical, but I wouldn't recommend it. Others might have a different opinion.
   
   I know you're on a tight budget right now, but you really will get what you pay for when it comes to your equipment. I'm not trying to tell you to sell your car to get a bow, I'm just saying that the very bottom tier is, well, bottom tier.

Those are really crappy, honestly. I had a friend who bought one of those for her son, and it was so weak the arrows wouldn't even stick in the target. Plastic limbs...pretty much a toy.

We went thru several bows for my son. We started w/ one of the little fiberglass Barnetts...which beats the one you linked to, IMO. My son is 7, and doesn't have any trouble drawing a 15lb bow with enough oomph to stick arrows in the target. He's been shooting an old Ben Pearson Junior Jet fiberglass stick bow for awhile and he's still enthusiastic about the sport. It's got enough power to stick his arrows in the target and is accurate enough for him to hit his target when he focuses and watches his form.

If you're looking for an inexpensive way to get started, this would be a better starter kit than the sentinel:
https://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Crossbows-1071P-Sioux-Recurve/dp/B00OZE2NZM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=barnett+lil+sioux&qid=1568151412&s=gateway&sr=8-5


Otherwise, if you think it'll be something she is going to stick with, invest in a good youth bow like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SinoArt-Takedown-Recurve-Beginner-Archery/dp/B075ZKKHHL/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=youth%2Brecurve&qid=1568151456&s=gateway&sr=8-11&th=1&psc=1
(16-20lbs, depending on how strong she is) and some inexpensive arrows:
https://www.amazon.com/Huntingdoor-Practice-Fiberglass-Shooting-Beginner/dp/B072N2YV5N/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=fletched+arrows+28%22&qid=1568151566&s=gateway&sr=8-14

I've shot several Barnetts and liked them all their factory is nearby so a lot of friends have them. I have the barnett recruit recurve and feel comfortable out to 40yds with tennis ball groupings. To me Xbows aren't super fun, it's a tool to get a job done and the recruit fulfills the requirement for me and it may for you. I may hunt with a x-bow twice a year with most of my shots 25-30yds on wild pigs. I think it's mostly been used by first time hunting friends that were recoil shy but wanted to shoot a pig. The were all fine at 20yds in 10 shots. I use cheap fixed broad heads and hit them behind the ear and they drop every time.

Don't forget you to include in the budget: wax, extra bolts, broad heads, cocker, and xbow rated target.

Edit 1: I wrote too much about a bow you didn't ask about and didn't address your questions. Take it with a grain of salt, I shoot a savage axis and mossberg 500 with zero interest in upgrading. I'm cheap and think it's just a tool but friends call me a wonderful piece of white trash but momma always said "one man's trash is another man's treasure".

Edit 2: To answer your questions I bought the recruit from Dicks. You'll still need the "wax, extra bolts, broad heads, cocker, and xbow related target.". It's really not much of package and I'm sure the bow will kill a deer and be accurate, it's a crossbow they're super easy.

If you're going with a whisker biscuit for a rest, make sure you get one that's made for bowfishing. Bowfishing arrows are waaay heavier than bowhunting arrows, and a regular whisker biscuit will wear out quickly - trust me on that one. I like that reel, have the same one...should work out well for you. As for arrows, I just use the basic AMS white fiberglass arrows. They work well for me, but I don't fish for Gar. I also like the black and yellow shafts, made by Cajun. Real nice arrow.

I wondered the same thing. After buying some of the cheapest ones I could find, and later buying some for around the price you mentioned, I found that spending a little more makes my practice more enjoyable and likely more effective. I like [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Feather-Fletched-Easton-Aluminum-Arrows/dp/B000PEMPMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394786199&sr=8-1&keywords=easton+jazz) for the price quality. Treat em right and the extra expenditure is worth it.

I don't understand how to purchase/assemble arrows...I've read guides, spine charts and I feel like I a missing something.


I bought a Samick Sage, 30#. I ended up buying these 1916 XX75 Jazz. Before I got those, I tried buying the shaft by it's self but then I needed vanes, tips, glue etc..The total would have been $70+ for 6 arrows if I did it that way. I also couldn't tell what points and notches fit in what shafts...So many variables,


So when you buy arrows, do they normally come in these separates pieces? The one's I bought were all inclusive.


How do you correctly attach the vanes?


How can I better know what to buy together to complete the arrow purchase?


This is for target shooting in a backyard.



Another Example: If I buy these Tributes from Lancaster Archery, they don't come with points right? So how do I make sure what point I buy, fits?

I haven't shot a bow since I was a child, so I didn't really know what kind of draw weight I would need, I just googled averages and used that. I'm glad I asked.

I figured the target would be junk but I didn't really think I needed anything more than a chunk of styrofoam.

Thanks for the advice, I just want to buy everything and get started, but Ive got some more research to do I suppose.

Edit:
Are These Better arrows?

I'm brand new too. I got the mandarin Duck Black hunter, waited like two weeks shipping from China then found this on amazon and it's the exact same thing.

I got 40lbs. After shooting i was really sore the next day and thought *shit, did i get too heavy? I'm just shooting targets not looking to take down a deer. After Getting used to it though and my form got better I could shoot more arrows and almost wish I got a tad heavier to shoot from farther away and punch it in. I think 40 is the sweet spot for a guy like you.
when getting arrows with this bow , get feathers, not vanes.
This is what I got as a Brand Noob

Arrows

Wrist guard (I cut it an half) I'm sure there are better ones

Finger tab

1. First thingy!
   
   
2. addon!
   
   
3. Silly story as to why: Well, clearly, I am preparing to combat zombie hordes. Gunshots would attract the undead to my location, so archery would allow me to pick off stragglers quietly to clear a path, and the mask is for back up, and I'm surrounded; I'll be able to blend in and pretend I'm one of them.
   
   Schmad on my add on!
   
   Grats on the raise!

Here are some links
They should give you some guide to what you are looking for. The fletching kit is rather nice and cheap. (i have one) it works great!

The arrows there are carbon and aluminium variants. I own the aluminium variant and they work fabulously.

The tab is another must have or get yourself a shooting glove


http://www.amazon.com/Bohning-Class-Fletching-Straight-Clamp/dp/B0000AVE3W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407609711&sr=8-2&keywords=fletch+jig


http://www.amazon.com/NuoYa001-Aluminum-feather-40-55lb-Compound/dp/B00K4MNMX6/ref=sr_1_68?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1407609797&sr=1-68

http://www.amazon.com/NuoYa001-Carbon-Streamlined-Feathers-Longbow/dp/B00H8KX32C/ref=sr_1_133?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1407609832&sr=1-133

http://www.amazon.com/Archery-Cowskin-Finger-Shooting-Protector/dp/B00LBU0YKE/ref=sr_1_30?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1407609886&sr=1-30&keywords=archery+tab

There's big broadheads still like this one here, but the mini ones work just as well, not as much damage either. The big broadheads could probably take down a deer with enough practice and very good shot placement

Bow hunters who have attained a high enough skill level to hunt wild turkey use a broad head called a guillotine. It will silently, effectively clip the head clean off a bird. Just sayin.

But you've got to be good at it!

Any budget or beginner bow would do.

Check out PSE snake recurve twin bow. Usually go for below 60$ and are high enough quality. Make sure you get one below 30# if you want to keep your friends.

As for arrows, you'll want to buy some soft heads and a few arrows with screw inserts. Dont break the bank on archery tag arrows.

Dont forget face/eye/ head protection. Paintball masks work


Snake recurve
https://www.als.com/pse-bow-snake-recurve/p?idsku=525202&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp525202&sc_intid=525202&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoIPvBRDgARIsAHsCw09H6mosZ6QWqPhFJHtplT-_oy4GpfDzAQ4008WPlqrLUqX7B4FMJV4aAkzvEALw_wcB

Velidy Sponge Foam Tipped Hunting Arrowhead Broadhead Tips 10pcs for LARP Archery Battle Tagging Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J3G6V68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pNu4DbRWZ1WXJ

Some super cheap arrows with tips.
Musen 30 Inch Carbon Archery Arrows, Spine 500 with Removable Tips, Hunting and Target Practice Arrows for Compound Bow and Recurve Bow, 12 Pcs Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DPTHH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DOu4DbXJRAP0G

You can fix those old arrows up with shrink wrap fletchings. Cheaper can be found, but it takes about 10 minute to refletch 10 arrows, and they'll fly better than when they were new. Scrape off the old fletchings with a knife (I assume you can find one), boil some water, remove water from heat, put the new fletchings on as you like, and slowly dip into the hot water.

That's all there is to it.

I have an old Grayling jig from the 90's. It was a hand-me-down/freebie. It's basically a plastic version of the Bitzenburger. I have fletched many dozens of arrows with it and I plan to fletch many dozens more. After a quick google search, I see that the Grayling Fletching Jig is still available today, and $29 for a complete setup seems like a reasonable deal. I just found a right helical clamp for it for about $10.

If this jig had not been given to me for free I would have been skeptical about it and I am sure I would have never purchased one based on online pictures, but the jig has definitely been a work horse. The only routine maintenance that I do on this jig is to check the nock alignment before I start and to adjust the nock rotation if I want the cock feather up instead of out.

If I was going to get a new fletching jig today, I would probably get one of the Bohning Feather Tower Fletching Jigs that does three feathers or vanes at one time.

I use something similar, the Grayling Fletching Jig. Should work about the same as the one you linked, so I think it's a worthy investment. I chose this because I didn't want a bright red one. Haha.

Usually it's an adhesive backed sticker, unless you're thinking of something like quickfletch

I shoot a 45lb sage and use 30" Easton jazz 1096. They are cheap on Amazon and come fletched, have inserts and points already installed. Havebt used any carbon to compare them to but the aluminum does fine by me, hard to bend unless you hit a tree or something at a weird angle.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PEMPMW?vs=1