Reddit mentions: The best automotive replacement shock bumpers

It depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to clear big tires because it looks cool, you can keep your stock shocks. If you want it to flex, I'd leave the rear sway bar out completely when I built the springs. In fact, that's how I've done all of mine. Stock shocks will limit your flex, so this is something worth investing in.

Stock track bar will move your axle over a little but won't cause handling issues or odd tread wear. It'll last a long time on the street but suffer rapidly when you articulate through rock gardens and the like. They last a long time at three inches of lift, but not higher. You might get one run out of a stock track bar at 4.5 inches before it starts making noise. An adjustable track bar alleviates this.

Control arms are alright to four inches. Brake lines should be changed around there. Steering should be upgraded for 33" tires and up but stock steering has lasted me well on nearly 32s.

Definitely spend the $60 or so on extended bump stops and trim them as needed. The 4" stops can be cut down for lifts under 4" and install in the factory locations. These fit but I actually like the ones which don't. They have a softer hit but have to be turned down on a grinder to fit. I can link you to those if interested, they're excellent for overland.

SYE is really only important over 5" for your year. The 97-01s are slightly different in a way which necessitates it over 2.5" or so but you can get away with a transfer case drop. Remove the factory hardware, get longer bolts, make a spacer out of whatever fairly solid 1" scrap you have around, and use it to space the cross member for the transmission down. Maybe two dollars for the hardware A stack of washers works if you don't have access to a good scrap pile or steel supplier who sells drops.

Your sway bar links may mingle with the coil spring over 3" but it's to no detriment in my experience. Longer links with disconnects work better on the trail. You can always cut and extend the links with 1/2" cold roll.

Anything else?

Understandable, and I appreciate the perspective - I would not have guessed even half of those costs.

Anyway, for me it sounds like the $400 all-said is a pretty good option. My buddy brings these guys thousands of cars to work on, so at least I know the guy doing the work wants to keep my buddy happy so he doesn’t screw up the relationship.

Then again, I’m looking at items like these:

1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Primered-Rear-Bumper-Cover-2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-SE-Sedan-Single-Exh-/322191182877
   
   
2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Painted-Match-Rear-Bumper-Cover-2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-SE-Sedan-/322191176403
   
   
3. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Painted-Match-Rear-Bumper-Cover-2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-5215906911-/321186755391
   
   
4. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Primered-Rear-Bumper-Cover-2007-2011-Toyota-Camry-SE-Sedan-5215906911-/351782480146
   
   
5. https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Fit-Group-RBT760101-Spoiler/dp/B01M7RUT43/
   
   
6. https://www.amazon.com/CarPartsDepot-Certified-352-44787-20-CA-TO1100243-5215906950/dp/B00B9F328M/
   
   Looks like all of them are at least primed, while a couple of them are both primed and painted to your vehicles specifications. The ebay seller in particular has tons of strong feedback and ships very quickly. I would need to look into the warranty / guarantees a bit further, but I’m wondering if I could grab one of these guys and either just install it myself (assuming I got a painted one) or bring it to a freelancer to paint (assuming I just got the primed version.)
   
   I think I will try calling around to some of the local junk yards as well to see if I can track down any bumper covers that would work and are in decent shape. If I do this, shouldn’t I have the actual bumper part number that’s being replaced though? Otherwise aren’t I relying on the junkyard to properly identify the Camry year, trim, and engine? I’ve noticed that there are several different rear bumpers for the 2010 SE 4 cylinder. As you can see above, there’s
   
   

• A 2.4L, 4 cylinder Made in Japan version - I don’t think these will work b/c it doesn’t look like they have spoiler holes
  
  
• A 2.5L, 4 cylinder Made in USA version which has spoiler holes and apparently a single exhaust - I know I only have a 4 cylinder, so I think this must be what I have
  
  
• A 3.5L, 6 cylinder which has spoiler holes and apparently dual exhaust - again, I have a 4 cylinder, so this can’t be it, but I’m also not completely sure it wouldn’t work on my vehicle anyway

Couple of ideas for you.

1. Convert your AC compressor to an air compressor
   
   
2. Upgrade your suspension (as /u/aussie_jason suggested) to the upcountry option.
   This is a stock spring package that directly replaces your worn out springs and gives you around 1.5 inches of lift for less than $250. I did this to my 94 XJ and i can tell you that'll help make some room for for those 30s. It's also easily boosted to a 3 to3.5 inch lift for around $90 more.
   
   
   Front coils
   
   Rear leaves
   
   
   Edit: Look into getting longer bump stops as they'll help keep your tires out of the fenders. Here are the ones I picked up.
   Front
   Rear

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-Universal-Stinger-KU71090BK-America/dp/B003BXUPHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541901298&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=daystar+bump+stop&dpPl=1&dpID=41fz6Z0hqML&ref=plSrch

These are the ones I have, but they seem like a lot of work. I'm thinking those poly ones you linked seen way easier.

I think you are talking about the valance

Heres everything I bought for my lift, the swaybar end links are of course optional, so are the bumpstops: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HXJFBA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K5FP2SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AF0MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AFKP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OCO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C57XJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rears https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GH1OH4/ref=pd_aw_fbt_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VMR2GMTZAN38X0C5CMN3
Fronts https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GH1OCO/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VT5KPW4R52PRVBT7CVDM
Do the front when you lift it so you don't have to pull the coil off again. Those should be the right size for your lift and tires.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ09114BK-Front-Bump-Stop/dp/B001GH1OCO

Older Jeeps (pre 97 I believe) - https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ09101BK-Bump-Stop-Piece/dp/B001GH1O9C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487952975&sr=1-1&keywords=KJ09101Bk

Cheapest you'll find them (unless you use hockey pucks up front). Just did mine on my ~3-3.5" lift with 33's.

Haven't done the fronts yet - can you do them without taking out springs? I really don't feel like taking the springs out, I reluctantly did it doing the lift but spring compressors fucking terrify me.

For the upper rear shock bolts, just punch them out and either fish bolts through or buy a flag nut kit. There is enough space up there for a wrench to hold the bolts if you decide to do it that way, but it’s a pain. I also used these so if I needed to replace the shocks later I wouldn’t have to deal with the upper bolts again. You may want to get an angle grinder as well. The leaf spring bolts tend to put up a fight.