(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best camera flash brackets

/u/chadaptation - congratulations on the new BMPCC! You might want to subscribe over at /r/bmpcc - lots of knowledgeable shooters there who can help you get the most out of your new camera.

The Pocket can be a pleasure to shoot with once a few challenges are overcome (e.g. the battery, LCD, ergonomics, small sensor crop and audio).

[Here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNogz62VyNhz8UOC-IHZPJFun72aIhJiKGNlpsKE8VDDUwk63tN53HA56TQfjElXg/photo/AF1QipMEweRTRutSEybNv7Y0ImOWdUNMkkW6o1uk9MEq?key=ckk3X2lsaU5JQlhsMGZFVUs4R2Q0S2M0UnlRcVVn) is a picture of my run and gun setup. With the pistol grip and LCD viewfinder, the camera becomes very easy to handle - while remaining fairly compact.

Here's the parts list:

• Pistol/trigger grip is a [$25.09 JJC HR-DV Remote Handle Pistol Grip for Blackmagic design pocket cinema camera] (https://www.amazon.com/JJC-HR-DV-Stabilizer-Camcorder-Blackmagic/dp/B00MRNP2LA//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• Viewfinder is the [$99 (on sale) Kinotehnik LCDVFBM] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FLCDVFBM.html)
  
  
• The shoe on top of the camera is a [$9.83 Alzo cold shoe adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Cinema-Cameras-ALZO-Digital/dp/B00HQPF7PU//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• The battery is a [Sony NP-F550, which is less than $10] (https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Replacement-NP-F550-Digital-Battery/dp/B0007Q9PWQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• The battery is mounted on a [$25.90 ILED NPF-Series Plate] (https://www.amazon.com/ILED-Battery-Adapter-BMPCC-HDV-Z96/dp/B00WLEKQS4//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• The battery plate is attached to the bottom of the pistol grip with a [$5.99 1/4" to 1/4" male to male screw] (https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-BIG-Double-Head-Stud/dp/B006TAGWT8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  This battery/pistol grip setup is pretty flexible. Each battery lasts about 3 times longer than the built-in EL-20s - and you can add a [bottom mounted recorder] (https://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-DR-60DmkII-DSLR-Audio-Recorder/dp/B00MIXFBL0//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) or preamp without rigging, as seen [here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNkBeFcX8uG_KmLjMUGOKFzPWd79a9jshFvwGoqq-BMhqFHecC9CfqkVKJCRriU-w/photo/AF1QipPHVxKeVJxsgjqCi6poxlAkD3ACoscVDLufv6Z_?key=SEpOQWx6a1NMVV93NXd2NUFDcjhnZ3phTnk0Y0x3) - or, by adding a [couple of rails] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUK1K3I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00DUK1K3I&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), plus a [$30 cold shoe extender] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7QQ91U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00B7QQ91U&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [shoulder pad] (https://www.amazon.com/Shoulder-Pad-for-Dslr-Rig/dp/B00BIPUQJQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), you can provide mounting points for a top mounted mic and a [ring light] (https://www.amazon.com/R-300-LED-Ring-Light-L-Bracket/dp/B00AY0J4OY//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [rail mount] (https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-15mm-Rail-Mount-R-300/dp/B00GMYA9LI//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), as seen [here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPpNqf_6Br306Q0W7kOF50O_IYEvDDLk5lzIFkoxsNwcQ0voFS6WcxM7XZagYBXXw/photo/AF1QipPS1KToloOPWtwCPM9K-sJJx3_uYc3Ko3te6T67?key=c2ZKUjhpWUU3REhzT3pURUtZbkw0NExlcVc4R2dB).
  
  When I need to put the rig on a tripod, I remove the pistol grip and replace it with a [quick release plate] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010SIAV2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0010SIAV2&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), as shown in [this video] (https://youtu.be/dYKjvnfwyvU).
  
  Hope this is helpful, good luck with your new camera and best of the holidays to you and yours!

I'm all about getting your money's worth. I have this bracket: http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-External-Bracket-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0033ZJE38/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1300319620&sr=1-3 And I've used the stroboframe of the same design and imo they're nearly identical.

My boss swears by a rotating frame like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Stratos-Proflip-Digital-Camera-Bracket/dp/B0035XRAQ6/ref=sr_1_26?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1300319752&sr=1-26

So far as light modifiers go I stick with an omni-bounce but for softer lighting, obviously a larger diffuser is nicer, I have friends who have gotten small soft-boxes made for hot-shoe flashes and they really liked them.

The manfrotto super clamps is great. But I have to say these are smaller and can hold any flash I have an eVOLV 200/AD200 that it can easily support as well!

Looks great, I bought two of these and they're great: http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0034WR71G
Yours look the same.
The hole you can see through in that photo is for an diffuser umbrella. That hole has a slight angle to compensate for the angle of the umbrella to flash. Make sure you put the umbrella into the bracket the right direction.
These brackets have a hole on the bottom that are compatible with flash stands, not standard camera tripods.

Instead of a shoot through umbrella I would turn everything around and go with a reflector umbrella like maybe the Parabolic one from Glow: https://www.amazon.com/Glow-Wing-Like-Parabolic-Fiberglass-Umbrella/dp/B07N9B1QHK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=glow+umbrella&qid=1573932567&sr=8-3 Will give you super soft light and plenty of surface area since its 60" so being off center won't make a huge difference. You could always get something like this as well to help: https://www.amazon.com/Selens-Umbrella-Bracket-Yongnuo-SE-L012/dp/B00U7AHJE8/ref=sr_1_51?keywords=adjustable+umbrella+mount&qid=1573932986&rnid=2941120011&s=photo&sr=1-51

That budget is going to mean compromises, but is doable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MNCRVJ/ - Flash brackets

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WS9XSSC - Light stands

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless triggers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I09WHLW - x2 - Flashes

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N05RL22/ - Batteries and charger

https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Umbrellas - x2

All of this will cost your right at 200. For a background, shoot against your plain wall and use photoshop to do a background overlay, Very easy to do, and the only way to stay in your budget.

But with that gear, yes, you will be able to do shots like you have linked.

Thank you!! I just went down a rabbit hole and found this thing that seems to be a similar concept. Leaving this post up for a bit just in case someone else is interested :)

Yeah, that'd work. I'd honestly just go key and fill.

It's worth noting that the Godox speedlights and big strobes are interchangeable on the radio system - you can mix and match.

One of these works really well with a couple speedlights.

I use a 90mm macro lens and 25mm extension tube. With a flash bracket to hold my flash off to the side of the lens of the lens. This lets me use decently wide aperture (F16-F20) with the fastest shutter speed my camera will sync to. I hand hold and go out in the garden looking for bugs. Morning and afternoon work best in the summer.

It works decently for me

I don't think that parallax will be too much of an issue at landscape distances, so long as there's nothing in the foreground. If you're just doing in-line rectilinear panoramas a [flat flash bracket](http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Camera-Flash-Bracket/dp/B005EHGX64/"Camera Flash Bracket") can be used to set the camera back so the tripod head rotates at the no-parallax point of the lens. I started out shooting 360° equirectangular panoramas with a flash bracket and cheap Walmart tripod set in portrait orientation. It wasn't perfect (off slightly laterally from the lens axis) but did the job.

When shooting panoramas everything should be in manual mode to keep consistent settings between frames; exposure, white balance, and if needed, even a preset focus.

Hope that helps!

I'll also recommend the MF01 both because it's floody, and also because it has a neutral white high CRI option. I notice a significant difference in how rock faces look with different emitters. I've seen one person increase output of this variation by 50% by installing Lexel's driver and doing spring bypasses.

It's hard to have too much light and battery life, so I'll also recommend using a dual flash adapter on a tripod.

Oh boy, save yourself 80% and buy these clamps. I have been using 4 of them for a year and a half.

I literally just got my Manfrotto Nano stand in the mail today as a matter of fact. Luckily I didnt need it for the wedding Saturday. But I mainly plan to use it to hold my LED for details shots and backlit portraits when I am flying solo.

One solution would be to use something like an L bracket. They give you a little more control of your gimbal, 2+ mounts and it's only like $10. At least, that's what I plan on doing with my Crane

Those L brackets are more useful if you're handholding with it. The problem with mounting them on a tripod is that it's hard to tighten it to a tripod plate enough to where it won't move when placed on the tripod. The heavier the load is, the harder it gets. Maybe something like this might work better mounted on the top show of the G7:


LimoStudio Dual Flash Light Bracket for Speedlite with 2 Extended Shoe Bracket & Mount on Camera, Photo Studio, AGG1991

Thanks for the help. So would something like this work for me? And then I can buy an umbrella mount like this to stand it up?

I'd maybe try to get a LAV or clip on microphone then? You could rigg the sound recorder to rest on the camera (rig link below) That way you just change who is wearing the mic and you dont need to worry about a boom operator.

Only thing about LAV's is sometimes you get clothing rustling sounds.

RHODE mics are on camera mics but they usually sound good




https://www.amazon.com/CLOUDSFOTO-Universal-Camcorder-Accessory-Microphone/dp/B01486L4ZG/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1494005120&sr=1-1&keywords=dslr+mounts

I recommend just getting a stand one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JJW0SS8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_dF2TDbN96MQFF.
I'd rather rely on a stand than hoping you'll have something to attach a flash to

Make it easier. Do an Amazon search for "tripod clamp" and put it on the side, I just did the search and had a ton of hits. Or mount it on the camera's shoe using a 1/4-male to 1/4-male https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SDKSWMW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_kC84wbRHCCV0T. Or use the camera's shoe via an adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPAPFNU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_qD84wbP0EB979. If you are already using your shoe, triple it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2L8S5W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_CE84wbJ39R2NK

Its a Canon 70d w/ 18-135mm lens and 17-85mm Lens (the 17-85mm is the one that clicks when it is focusing) For a microphone he uses a Rode VMPR VideoMic Pro R. He used the NEEWER 160 LED light for the ursla series. To mount the microphone and light he used something like the Eynpire Camera Triple Mount.

ALTERNATE MOUNTING OPTION DETECTED:

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2L8S5W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AJU45U9D3I7E4&psc=1

With these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPAPFNU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

That'll mount to a tripod, right?

If you don't want an L bracket, there's this or this

But realistically, if you don't use a bracket, what do you expect? I suppose you can rig up an articulating arm to hold the phone that might screw into the tripod mount or use a clam to grip the tripod. But both ideas sound more cumbersome than a bracket.