Reddit mentions: The best car audio & video stereo amplifiers

I had about that budget to build the system in my 75 Lincoln. Here’s links to what I went with other than the sub which is an older Sony 10” in a box I bought used. I run the 4s and 6x9s off deck power and use a cheap amp for the sub. A better amp would be better of course but for my budget I like how this sounds. The kicker speakers have been great for the $$$ although the 4”/6x9 combo is a little high sounding because my car is so long. Your tracker shouldn’t be as bad given it’s not 19.6 feel long like my Lincoln. Haha. If you can fit bigger speakers up front I’d suggest doing so to pull some more mids out. This setup was around $400 and sounds pretty decent considering the price. The speakers aren’t on prime for they price so a little more $ would get them faster. Also don’t forget to budget in wiring as a kit and decent RCAs will raise the cost. Also, check local garage sale sites like on Facebook. People are often offloading stereo stuff when they need money. Just beware of stolen items :(
Best of luck! Hope it all works out!

Pioneer deck $99.99:

Pioneer DEH-X6900BT Vehicle CD Digital Music Player Receivers, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KKHSYGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LVU2BbJ84810C

Kicker 6x9s $61.80 and 4” $34.99:
Kicker 41DSC44 4" 2-Way Speaker Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4D2YBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TXU2Bb9XQ4N0Z

Kicker DS693 6"x9" 3-Way Speakers (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K5AZAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LYU2BbZ3T21ZA

Planet audio amp $59.99:

Planet Audio AC1000.2 Anarchy 1000 Watt, 2 Channel, 2/4 Ohm Stable Class A/B, Full Range, Bridgeable, MOSFET Car Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSLE4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v0U2Bb3PFV49C

Few questions

1. Are you planning on using the hifonics and whatever sub you have? Also it would help to know which sub it is.
   
2. Any chance you’ll want to upgrade in the future? If so what upgrades?
   
3. Do you want CarPlay? Or do you want it to be cheaper for the head unit ?
   
4. What trim package is your car?
   
5. Would you rather a single 5 channel amp install with a weaker sub channel, or 2 amp install with much stronger output, but at the cost of having two amps.
   This is what i would recommend without knowing, this is generally the cheap build that gets recommended around here.
   
   https://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB6502/Polk-Audio-DB-6502.html?tp=105&avf=Y
   Or
   https://www.crutchfield.com/p_210MAXIM62/Morel-Maximo-6.html?tp=106&awkw=201489505465&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=102806221945&awdv=m&awug=9029717 ( says they don’t fit, but they probably do)
   
   https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40254_NVX-JAD800.4.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=item_campaign&utm_keyword=nvx+jad800.4&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Y_ZtpDX2QIVw1x-Ch1cqQVhEAAYASAAEgK0vPD_BwE ( get this if you plan on ever running your front speakers active )
   Or for a 2 channel
   https://www.amazon.com/Cerwin-Vega-B52-Stealth-Bomber-Channels/dp/B00ZAQVMJC (this thing is tiny. It’s cute. Bought one for a truck build, does well)
   
   https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV100/Sony-XAV-AX100.html?tp=72357 (i like this because knob, and i have 3 and they’ve all done what they’re supposed to. Get this or a pioneer one. )
   
   http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/kolossus-fleks-0-gauge-dual-amp-power-kit/
   Will need this if you’re going to run 2 amps.
   
   Ditch the rear deck speakers.
   Hook up the subwoofer and amp, when you get money upgrade them. Get pics of the sub and it’s enclosure as well.
   

Home and car audio installer guy here.

Every brand has good and bad speakers, even JBL, Let's build you a really good bang for buck system, with components I've used myself. I highly recommend these instead:

• Polk Speakers, comes in packs of 2
  
  
• Polk Amp
  
  
• Keep the current headunit, you should be able to wire into these new components. If you really want a new one, search "Double DIN Headunit", as that is the mount sizing and style.
  
  
• Subwoofer is TOTALLY up to, as that is personal preference to how much bass you like. You will need a separate amplifier for the subwoofer.
  
  This system can be wired 1 speaker per amp terminal, or two speakers per amp terminal. So you can use 2 or 4 speakers on that amp. Amp runs a bit hotter with 4 though, but it's fine. This system is LOUD. Seriously. Not audiophile grade by any means, but is well within your budget, and is a great place to start. Make sure to use the highpass on the amp for these speakers. Set it to 40hz, then 80-100hz if you get a subwoofer. This way they can shine where they are best, the mids and highs. You don't want to push super low frequencies to them at loud volumes, bad for their health.

"I. Declare. BANKRUPTCYYYY"

"Michael you can't do that"

Edit: I'll post my real statement tomorrow when I get home :)


SUPER EDIT:

I am going to get back to the weight I was last summer and drop 40lbs. My wedding weight shall not hold me down!!!!

For now though, I will drop at LEAST 10lbs in the next few weeks. I KNOW I have it in me, but I have been unsuccessful since june to stay motivated and actually follow through. Every time I step forward, I take 6 back and eat some pizza instead....


I'm going to run and lift weights 5-6 times a week, and track my weight fairly regularly along with my fat %. I will use My Fitness Pal to track calories and carefully balance my meals. I will also take a before photo to compare to, and will use later if I feel comfortable.


/u/Poorrusty /u/rightfootedglove and /u/bunnysoup shall be my guides.

For now, i will list THIS amp, but I need to double check my math to ensure it is the right wattage.

I hope I did this all right....

Ok, what I'm thinking now is a system that looks like this: http://imgur.com/nQEW57b

Would this work? Would it output strangely because the soundbar wants to have a left and right side, so it would be a bad center? I'd really like to use it because I think it sounds pretty good and I already paid for it.. you know. In hindsight maybe I shouldn't have, but too late now.

The speaker to line converter I was looking at was this:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-SLC4-Speaker-Level-Converter/dp/B000BFL52Q

I know its made for auto use, but it shouldn't matter. It will handle 80W, which is the maximum output of the receiver I was looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-NR515-7-2-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B0077V88VI

I can get that for $100 less refurbed on ebay. Not too expensive and it will allow me room to expand my system as I save up a bit, assuming everything I have come up with here works. I'm having a bit of a hard time finding a receiver with zone 2 being preamps, they seem to all be powered.

Edit: Other solution would be to run the soundbar as L+R and turn the center off I guess. Are there any issues I should be aware of with using the speaker to line converter? I also have input options of Optical Audio and HDMI if those would be potentially easier to convert to.

So, I drive a 1994 Chevrolet S10 Extended Cab.
Inside of that, I'm currently running two Dual SD-12s


They are powered by a single Dual XPE2700 400 Watt Amplifier

I don't remember the exact model of the enclosures that the subwoofers are in, but they are made by Scosche and are very similar to This. It was the only box that was in Walmart at the time.

My problem is that as of late, I've just found the enclosures for the subwoofers taking up too much room behind the seat in my truck, to the point where the subwoofers are pressed right up against the back edge of the two seats. I don't really like this, as it ruined part of the cone on the subwoofer behind the driver's side seat.

So, while I was screwing around on amazon the other day, I stumbled across [This] (http://www.amazon.com/KICKER-TC10-SINGLE-COMP-4OHM/dp/B00BJAZOJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377808483&sr=8-1&keywords=kicker+tc10) from kicker:



This sounds like a great deal to me, as it's only $70.
My concerns are:
How much of a difference should I expect in volume/loudness?
Is my amp going to be too powerful and potentially cook the woofer? (I know that the 400 watt rating on the amp is peak, not RMS, but I'd really like to know that my subwoofer will be safe even if things are turned way up, etc.
This box IS actually smaller than the current ones I have, right?

Thank you for all your help, I tried to be as thorough as I could.
The linked album is a few pictures of my setup, and here's some badly shot cell-phone video of it just because.


Fun note: It doesn't actually sound like such horrible distortion when you listen to it for real. It's just because of the way it was recorded, etc.

Amp

Sub

Box

You won't need a high level converter with this amp, but you will need a nice install kit

The sub and box go together, so I ignored "must come in box" because either you're installing yourself and you can put screws in wood, or you are taking it to an install shop who can do it for you.

If that is somehow really beyond your abilities, something like this will work. (still need a dedicated amplifier)

You could always get a 4 channel line output converter to convert speaker wire to rca. But a HU with 6+ rca outputs would be in your favor. Sub out, Rear out, Front out

https://www.amazon.com/SLC4-4-Channel-Converter-Amplifier-Adjustable/dp/B000BFL52Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=4+channel+line+output+converter&qid=1573677351&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-S5000BT-Compatibility-Bluetooth-Customization/dp/B07526JF15/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-2-QmV0d2VlbiAkNTAgYW5kICQyMDA%3D-ac_d_pm&keywords=car%2Bstereo&pd_rd_i=B07526JF15&pd_rd_r=2b2e20e3-4a81-430a-9209-334d8955226f&pd_rd_w=b6SGp&pd_rd_wg=m4dWc&pf_rd_p=02e79b16-eab7-4369-852f-d04a58a4d9b5&pf_rd_r=YG038249XGV2DVT292CQ&qid=1573677664&th=1

Most likely your HU has all audio being output through one set of rca's. Or sub only. But if it has been playing it's all audio, just needs a signal split. That's where a 4ch converter comes in handy.

As for grounding the rca's, you shouldn't have to, but I learned the hard way that they can be grounded manually by using a piece of speaker wire attaching ONLY the outer metal of the rca (not the center prong) to the stereo chassis (metal on the stereo). Here's a shitty video I found on youtube that can help.

https://youtu.be/O6B8fJ_RxFU

All in all, upgrading HU with more outputs would be your best choice

I'd recommend a amp, loc, and if they fit your front doors (use Crutchfield) polk db651s. The polks can be found on Amazon. They are crisp but you'll have the same issues you do now at high volume without the amp.

There is a couple pretty decent amps that would work:

Amp 1

Amp 2

I'm lost on loc suggestions. Alternatively replace your head unit, couldnt give a suggestion there either.

Probably would need a 8awg wiring kit for the amp, make sure it's OFC wire. 16awg OFC speaker wire would be necessary too. 20-30ft should be plenty If you buy from Crutchfield. Alternatively, it's usually sold in spindles of 40-50ft.

If you think you'll want to add a sub get some 2/0 power wire, you'd need a second amp and distribution block for the sub.

Also some sound deadener for your doors for sure.

Because there are manufacturers that lie about their specs, there are manufacturers that tell the truth, and there are manufacturers that underrate their products and use the best possible components for production (best caps, mosfets, transformers, etc). A Boss 2-channel is nothing compared to a Kicker 2-channel, which is then nothing compared to a Helix 2-channel.

This pioneer 2-channel should do just fine

Also, if you do DIY, this makes it a lot easier. And more easily reversible.

Edit: forgot to include the very link for which I commented:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GQJOUCS

Looks like you can still pick up the Polk D2000.2 for about $75. That'll get you 500 watts into 4 ohms.

Here are a couple more options for $130 from crutchfield giving you 500-600 watts:

Alpine MRV-500

Infinity Kappa K600


I don't know anything about sump pump basins. Are they dense, rigid, and non-resonant? Also do you know how much airspace they provide?

It's a super old amp, not seeing any other lights. It's an Alpine mrv t503
https://www.amazon.ca/Alpine-MRV-T503/dp/B00Q9KJWL8

Hey Looks great! When you get sick of the plastic radio box falling off the dash all the time I have a fix for you.

Cut a piece of plywood to fit the basic shape and drive some self tapping sheet metal screws into it. Leave a little gap and it'll slide into the metal bracket that "used" to hold the radio box in place.

Mount whatever you like to the plywood. I went with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-V9S-stereo-digital-amplifier/dp/B00L8O8WK2/

I have an 88 tin-top, I feel your pain, but it shined up really nice after a lot of hours with the buffer.

same amp on amazon for way cheaper https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-A5702-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B01KKHTFSK

can you explain a bit more about matching wattage and ohms and rms? Im not new to having subs but ive never had to buy an amp before. thank you

Amazon: BT Receiver

plus

Amazon: compact USB battery

That's the solution I use, with $8 noise isolating headphones. Total cost: ~35, and I can use the battery to boost my phone and the receiver as a wireless patch cord for instruments (with a BT transmitter on the instrument end).

And the battery powers the headphones for around 30 hours of playtime between charges, and is hot swappable (I've got two).

We should see how the radio was connected to the amp, the problems with the Bose amps arise when connected though the RCAs of the HU, it seems counterintuitive but you get better sound using the speaker outs since they are balanced and the amp inputs too, you can use a level converter designed for Bose if the signal is too high.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Would something like this be sufficient to power the speakers or is this just too small? I know it's only 20w x2 but I won't need the speakers to be loud as it's just for my home office.

http://www.amazon.ca/Version-Upgraded-LP-2020A-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00DZIH3RW/ref=pd_cp_ce_0

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-A5702-2-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B01KKHTFSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482088584&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+gm+amp this is the amp i have if it helps,

Use something like this next time:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speakers-Headphones/dp/B01AV6PK3E/ref=pd_lpo_107_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2QC8W03HY8BZYBS94R5E

Uses USB for power, and the cable would go to AUX, so that your wife's phone could pair to a different BT receiver.

Thanks but I don't want to splice the factory harness.

I am gearing towards using an adapter and a LOC to do the job.
Could you confirm if I can use the Metra 70-8112 harness and the Scosche SLC4 Line output converter to get the job done? I think this is going to work but I'll be using the factory amp.

This is what the youtube video was about.

OH shit. Yeah. You're talking about this? http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speakers-Headphones/dp/B01AV6PK3E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463373928&sr=8-2&keywords=bluetooth+headphone+receiver+usb

or something like that. I'm struggling to find one that will give me good quality audio though, everything seems fragile or has a hissing noise from the ratings. regardless, it should still direct the sound to my headset even if nothing is plugged in my audio port on my laptop, right?

Sell it, invest in a HPS lamp, grow a small amount of weed(just a few plants) once and then sell it off slowly to your friends.

Not advocating for this but it's an idea.

Building a 4x12 is not so difficult though. If you want to make your own ghetto little cab off of amazon this is all you need though. It will possibly catch on fire if you turn it up too high though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M9A0M8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013MV7FG/

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLW15RD-15-Inch-Performance-Woofer/dp/B004HJ7NKA/

Alternately build this amp.

http://www.chambonino.com/construct/constwire2.html

It's a Sony XAV-AX100 You'll need this Metra Kit to fit the new stereo. If you have a Bose system you'll either need to bypass the Amp or get a line level converter. I started with the line level converter, the sound is better than the stock system but still not great. I plan on getting a new amp and speakers eventually. I just wanted bluetooth and Android Auto to start.

i might just buy a new amp, anybody have experience with planet audio amps

Crunch PX-1000.2 2 Channel 1000 Watt Amp A/B Car Stereo Amplifier + Wiring Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1X002O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E03Rzb99540X6 I had got two channel on purpose to balance out the 8 ohms

The specs of the amp are pictured

Link here

This one says it delivers

> 113 W X 2 RMS @ 4 ohm

Will that be sufficient for my 2 100-Watt, 4 ohm speakers?

I have an amplifier, but I'm not sure whether or not I should just stick with my preamp or not

This is the amp

Word. Where do you recommend finding one of those? I'm embarrassingly amateur in the speaker world.

I found these: http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Audio-AC2000-2-Two-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B003GSLE3U/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1341292595&sr=1-5&keywords=2+channel+power+amplifier

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Audio-AC1000-2-Two-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B003GSLE4E/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1341292595&sr=1-7&keywords=2+channel+power+amplifier

How do you think one of those would work out?

what you think of http://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-V9S-stereo-digital-amplifier/dp/B00L8O8WK2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1459187659&sr=8-3&keywords=lepy or http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-200w-2-0-ch-stereo-receiver-black/4156007.p?id=1219096745208&skuId=4156007

I just prefer something small for around 25$ if possible :[