Reddit mentions: The best cat supplements & vitamins

This information could vary depending on where you live, as for the United States. Make sure you’re familiar with your local laws on ferrets and your landlords policy before you commit to anything.You’ll most likely come across Marshall ferrets if you’re getting from a pet store. You want to look for the double dot tattoo on their ear that indicates they’ve been descented and spayed/neutered. You should always have at least two ferrets because they’re social animals and get depressed alone. They’re very social and need someone to keep them company whenever you can’t. You really can’t take the place of a second ferret playmate because you cannot play like a ferret and there will be times when they are without you and you can’t cuddle up in their hammock with them lol I find females are easier to train but boys can be very sweet too. They do bite and that needs to be trained out of them. It’s a good idea to research some training techniques before hand so you’re prepared and can be consistent from the start. They relieve themselves in corners so that can be used to your advantage when potty training them. Some people use litter boxes with pellets (never kitty litter), personally I use weewee pads and secure them in place with tape. If they’re not secure they will run away with them and tear them up lol. They do poop a lot and you have to keep up with cleaning it up. They’re super smart and energetic so they need enrichment. Tunnels, ball pits, and toys are a must. They also need lots of out of the cage time (minimum of 4 hours a day but the more the better) if you can dedicate a ferret proof section of your house that is ideal, my ferrets have their own bedroom so they are never confined to a cage. If they are roaming in a non ferret proof room they need to be closely monitored because they can be seriously injured if they chew on a wire, get stepped on, knock over something glass, or get into food that would be toxic for a ferret etc. As far as cages go I recommend a ferret nation cage, the double doors makes cleaning it easier and it’s an appropriate size for a ferret. (not sure what kind of cage you already have but make sure it’s appropriate for ferrets, not all small animal cages will work for them.) Wysong digestive support is a good food for them. It’s isn’t that much more expensive that Marshall’s but it’s substantially healthier and worth the extra price as it improve the longevity of your ferrets. Grizzly’s salmon oil makes a good treat because they love it and it’s very healthy for them. Be careful when picking a food because they cannot have vegetables, grains, or soy and many leading pet food brands do have them. They are strictly carnivores and should never eat dairy, sugar, fruits, vegetables, or grains/breads. They need their ears cleaned once a week (tiniest bit of olive oil on a q-tip and don’t push down the canal) and their hammocks and beds need to be washed. The majority of their musky smell comes from their ears so keeping up with that will keep the smell under control. They don’t need baths very often, frequent baths could dry out their skin. My vet told me once a month, other owners say every few months or never unless they’ve gotten themselves dirty (the less the better!). Their nails also need to be clipped and this is better off done as a two person job so one person can scruff ( held up by the skin on the back of their neck like a cat would hold a kitten in her mouth) and the other person can clip the nails. Make sure you don’t clip too fair back or you could make them bleed. You can usually see the vein in their nail and avoid it but it is something you need to be careful about and don’t want to do if they’re squirming, keep some styptic powder on hand just in case. Another tactic is to try it right after they’ve fallen asleep so they’re docile enough to let you do it. or you can rub some salmon oil on their tummy so that they’ll be distracted licking it off. Don’t use ferretvite it contains harmful ingredients and loads of sugar which is harmful for ferrets. Their teeth also need to be cleaned. Constant access to fresh water is a must. Leave the lights off for them at night, it’s good for their melatonin regulation. I would also recommend keeping an empty emergency kennel above their cage in case of a fire or any other event that would need you to evacuate quickly. It’s also important to have a vet on hand. If you get a Marshall’s ferret they’re usually all taken care of medically before you adopt them but they are sensitive creatures and are prone so certain problems and you don’t want to wait until something is wrong to look for a vet. Most conventional cat/dog vets won’t see ferrets because they are considered exotic. They live up to 8 years and take a lot of time, energy, love, patience, and commitment. They are a long term commitment so make sure you’re up for it and your schedule allows for it before you adopt. Good luck :)

Midwest Deluxe Ferret Nation Add-On Unit Ferret Cage (Model 183) Includes 1 Leak-Proof Pans, 1 Shelf, 1 Ramps w/Ramp Cover. Compatible w/Ferret Nation Models 181 & 182 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-lpDbMH66638

Wysong Ferret Epigen 90 Digestive Support - Dry Ferret Food, Four - 5 Pound Bags https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019W9VYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6-lpDbWYENQ5R

Grizzly Omega Health for Dogs & Cats, Wild Salmon Oil/Pollock Oil Omega-3 Blend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074N97RFP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n.lpDbAWJAHGM

PM aid a private message on here, no worries! Takes time to get the jargon if you’re new to reddit lol. And you’re very welcome, I know how much of an adjustment and commitment these animals are.

I’m glad he likes the yolk bc it’s a good healthy treat! They say once a week is good and during the shedding season (October-November in fall, March-May/June in spring) you can feed them yolk twice a week and it helps reduce hairball blockages.

I am also OCD and the smell is something I’ve been trying to work around. I have cage wipes and Kaytee Cage Cleaner and I use those whenever I feel is necessary. I have a playpen for mine and after they’re done playing and I go to work for the day I spritz it so it can dry and it helps the smell of their pen. For the cage, I use blankets/towels and I change them daily sometimes twice a day if they’re wet or smelly (mine love to tip their water bowl and get everything wet so there’s that)

I use care fresh for litter, I tried yesterday’s news for them, and I would use the pellets at the bottom and use care fresh at the top, (I felt the pellets weighed down the box so they would move it less) they ended up burrowing with the pellets more than using it for litter but when I would use pellet the pee would break it down so much it started smelling like ammonia. It was HORRIBLY STINKY, so I stopped using the yesterdays news and only use care fresh now, it honestly doesn’t smell that bad but I’ve read that walnut shavings (I would be careful if you do this and Deff look into it and make sure the walnut shavings are a good/safe brand meant for ferrets before just buying any old shells) help reduce smell tremendously. Something about the natural aroma and the ferret smells mask it well, that might be something to consider if the smell is bothersome for you. But just be really on top of cleaning the basics ! 3x a day I clean their litter and before I put them back in their cage I take everything out and clean up any water, food, amiss litter and all of that and honestly you can’t even tell I have ferrets when you walk into my room. I’ve also read an air purifier is a godsend for the smell as well (which might be something I have to do in the winter when my room is stuffier, I have my air conditioning on all day for them so I think that helps the air flow for my situation)

Hope all of that helps!

Edit: I should also add I vacuum at least twice a day around their cage too. I used to be more of a slob during my day to day basis but the ferrets have kept me on top of all their cleaning needs and I spend like an hour before work and 2 hours after work cleaning after them, so it’s like 3 hours a day I spend on making sure they live a perfect life lol, just a part of the beauty of having these lovely creatures sharing your home!


Edit 2: with the salmon oil what brand is it? There is a person on this sub who recommends a certain brand, grizzly omega, that animals up to 12 pounds can have half a pump of that one (details on amazon if you want to see for yourself I’ll link it here: Grizzly Omega Health for Dogs & Cats, Wild Salmon Oil/Pollock Oil Omega-3 Blend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074N4XWVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n5krDbB4HAW8M)

If he hates it, he hates it! They are notoriously finicky eaters. I definitely need to buy a bottle bc my babies do not respond well to scruffing and my boy is very anxious about nail clipping and baths, so I need to distract him. You should see my hands, they are covered in scratches from his nails, my good friend is a vet tech and she has cut their nails for me about 2 weeks ago but she went on vacation and now I’m struggling bc I want to do it but I’m scared of hurting them ! Especially bc he’s fussy as heck

She's getting picky, like they do, but I try and give her foods low in phosphorus that she'll actually eat. She's in the first stages of kidney failure so the levels of phosphorus are very important. Tanya's Comprehensive Guide to Chronic Kidney Disease website has a list of tons of foods that have low levels... since it's one of those things not listed on cat food labels, she hunted down the companies and posted the results. I try and get Chloe the foods that are non-Rx but on the top of her list. So far so good. No matter how good for her they are, she has to eat the shit so that's the main goal. Like all babies, she'd much prefer the junk food so if eating is tricky- Whiskas wet food in the square tub works every time if she's being difficult.

The good food- her main diet- Hill's (the Science Diet people) have the Ideal Balance line and a new one Ideal Balance Crafted. She likes both types (except the IB venison- that one is apparently disgusting) and she'll eat most of the flavors. I've added a vitamin in the mornings, something I found on Amazon and helps A LOT with her very, very slight dementia. And Forti-Flora digestive to help with any weird poops that may arise. Her vet comes here to the house, to complete the pampering, and has approved my choices for her eatin' habits.

Probably way more information that you wanted- whoops; sorry! But her diet is super important to me and I think it's played a large part in her longevity. Born on my bed when I was 17, she's been with me through the end of high school, two airplane trips, two cross-country car trips, a marriage, a divorce, births, deaths, earthquakes, fires and floods- she's my everything.❤❤❤

Accessory

I am a huge fan of the Ruffwear Slackline leash. I love the snap on the handle (make it really easy to take him to work with us), the adjustable length, the clasp and the built in reflective strip. Very durable and has been a great leash! I had no strong opinion of leashes until I bought that one.

Chew

Dried Beef Tracheas are my corgi's favorite chew - I am really glad I tried them despite how disgusting they look. They last a decent amount of time (usually a couple hours - even with our raw fed power chewer) and are stuffable. They also don't smell like bully sticks can.

Suppliment

Grizzly Salmon Oil is probably one of the best supplements I have purchased. Has done amazing things for his coat.

Toy

The Kyjen Flirt Pole is probably one of the best toys I have purchased. Our corgi LOVES it, and despite people think I am carrying a whip around, I have zero complaints about it.

Treats

Lakse Kronch Salmon Dog Treats. I saw them for the first time at our raw pet food deli - tried them and our corgi LOVES them. They are incredibly stinky, have only TWO ingredients (Salmon & fish meal), and are fairly easy to work with (although a bit crumbly).

Can cats be vegan?

 

Yes. Cats require many nutrients that typically come from meat. In regular kibble, many of these nutrients are stripped away during processing and added back in from synthetic sources. These same sources are used to fulfill missing nutrients in vegan diets. Studies and anecdotal evidence support vegan diets as a healthy diet for cats.

 

Vegan dog and cat food has the same amount of carbs, protein, and fat.

 

There is one point of concern though. Vegan diets are typically more alkaline/basic (high pH) than meat based diets. Basic diets can cause FLUTD (feline lower urinary tract disease), especially in male cats. To combat this their food must be acidified. Most vegan and non-vegan cat kibble is acidified to prevent this condition. It's still a good idea to monitor your cat as it transitions foods to ensure its best health.

 

The most relevant research has this to say on the matter

 

> The normal pH of a cat’s urine is 5.5–7, and the normal range for a dog’s urine is pH 5–7 [85]. A pH > 7 indicates alkalinity. A variety of dietary products (e.g., “Vegeyeast” from Harbingers of a New Age—see [26]) and additives can correct alkalinization, should it occur. Asparagus, peas, brown rice, oats, lentils, corn, brussel sprouts and yeast may be included in feline and canine diets, and are all urinary acidifiers [27]. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is also a urinary acidifier. The British Small Animal Veterinary Association (BSAVA) Small Animal Formulary [86] recommends a dosage of 50–80 mg/kg every 24 h for cats and dogs. And for more serious cases, the amino acids methionine and cysteine may be used [13]. The BSAVA Small Animal Formulary [86] recommends a dosage of 200 mg/cat every 8 h. More detailed advice about urinary alkalinisation and corrective strategies is available via www.vegepets.info, or within veterinary medical texts.

 

> Increased urinary acidity, decreased urinary magnesium and increased water consumption all help to keep the urinary pH within a healthy acidic range, and help to prevent the formation of struvite crystals. However, acidifying nutrients, agents, or products should be used carefully, as excessive levels can lead to metabolic acidosis. Increased urinary acidity may also promote higher urinary excretion of calcium and lower excretion of magnesium, and magnesium is a natural inhibitor to the formation of urinary stones associated with calcium [87].

 

• source
  
   
  
  > "Urinary pH is the most important factor in determining the SAP [struvite activity product, which can lead to FLUTD]. Acidification of urine causes deprotonation of phosphates and increases the total proportion of urine phosphate existing as trivalent anions, reducing the SAP.6 Urinary pH and SAP have been reduced with both dietary modification and administration of urinary acidifiers.7 The solubility of struvite is maximized when the urinary pH is <6.4 ... acidification of the urine to <6.29 may increase the risk of calcium oxalate urolith formation...[Urinary acidifiers] should be considered only when the urine pH is >6.5 with ad libitum feeding conditions...A general recommendation for prevention of urolithiasis is to increase water consumption...Diets with reduced magnesium that maintain a urine pH between 6 and 6.3 are recommended despite lack of evidence of efficacy...Monitoring urine pH is recommended to assess dietary compliance and efficacy. Values between 6.0 and 6.5 may reduce the incidence of calcium oxalate and struvite crystal formation. "
  
   
  
  
• source
  
   
  
  So what should you do?
  
   
  
  
• Always soak a cat's food in water for at least 30 minutes before feeding
  
  
• Buy vegan cat foods that have been acidified to lower pH. pH 6.3-6.4 is optimal, though exact pH will not likely be advertised. You can check for acidifiers by looking in the ingredient list for sodium bisulfate, dl-methionine, ammonium chloride, Vitamin C and the others discussed in the above study. These are already commonly added to regular pet foods.
  
  
• Check your cat's urine pH 1-2 weeks after switching to vegan and then twice a year. pH > 7 is a problem.
  
  
• For cats the target food pH is 6.3-6.5. Urine should be 6.0-6.5. Below or above this range is unhealthy. Acidifiers are only needed if the urine is above 6.5.
  
  
• If your cat appears to be in pain when using the litter box, immediately contact your vet. FLUTD is a serious condition that can lead to death.
  
  
• If you make your own food, which is not recommended, it is extremely important to check pH after it is thoroughly blended and mixed, and that the pH is 6.3-6.5. The author of Obligate Carnivore recommends taking these steps in the following order
  
   1. For minor cases, enzyme supplements which include methionine, vitamin C, and/or cranberry extract will be sufficient. These limit both urinary alkalinisation and inflammation. They also aid digestion, and can result in increased vitality.
  
   2. For moderate cases, Gillen states that Vegecat pH, with added sodium bisulfate, may be sufficient.
  
   3. For severe cases Gillen recommends methionine pills. Severe cases also require a visit to the vet and possibly removing them from a vegan diet. Gillen estimates 85-90% of cats will never experience even a minor case.
  
  

I'm so sorry you're having to treat infections, it sounds like your cat has a more severe case! :( I am happy to tell you what has worked for us.

To cure this particular flare-up, we added water to her food for hydration and gave her some tuna (more pungent so she would eat it even with her nose clogged).

We also purchased this moving water fountain. She slurps out of that thing where she wouldn't even look at her water bowl before. We also ran a humidifier for a while. She might have been on the up and up anyway, but all of this seemed to do the trick.

I mainly try to reduce her stress by keeping everything consistent, especially the kind of litter I use. If you're not already, do consider using a dust-free corn based litter like World's Best. Their lungs are smaller and the dust can really aggravate them.

Anitra's Vitamineral Mix is something you might want to look into as a wet food supplement. I considered using Feliway like one poster here suggested, but the price kind of kept me from pulling the trigger and we've been fortunate to not have another outbreak.

You might have known all of this already, in which case just ignore me, but I really hope your kitty gets feeling better. The Natural Cat is a book that really helped me after I first adopted. I don't agree with everything she prescribes and she's big on holistic treatments (avoiding the vet and medication as much as possible) but the lady knows her cats and I think everyone has something to learn. When nothing else has worked, it might be worth a shot! Take care!

First, congratulations! I'm excited for you. Reminds me of my first time and the excitement it brought. Here's a list of things I learned to keep on hand for my Dobbie:
 

• Oatmeal Shampoo - Oatmeal naturally conditions fur and keeps skin hydrated. My Dog had dandruff and I didn't want to get anything that was medicated. This shampoo helped keep the coat clean and shiny.
   
  
  
• Grizzly Salmon Oil Supplement - Most dog food sold in bulk is full of corn, grains and ground up tendons and bones. If you're not adding meats, whole grains, pumpkin, etc to his diet, just kibble by itself doesn't contain enough nutrients. Salmon oil was also recommended by my Vet. to help keep skin, coat healthy. Just a small squirt on top of kibble and he seemed to really love his meal.
   
  
  
• Grain free Turkey Jerky - All treats don't have to be biscuits or rawhide. These are some healthier alternatives and not that expensive either.
   
  
  
• High Quality Nail Clippers - If you plan on trimming his nails yourself. Mine wouldn't let me at first, but with some training, patience and treats, this became easier and saves atleast $10-$15 dollars each time on nail-trims at the groomers.

That's wonderful that you're committed to keeping this cat. I did a little digging in the hopes that there's a straight forward option you haven't yet tried.

Here are a few reasons some cats meow a lot. Some are physical causes and some are easily remedied, so it may be worth at least a quick read in case it leads to an "ah ha" moment for you.

If he's talkative at night and it's affecting your sleep, here's a training video, and one product that seems to have helped a lot of people: Night Owl Solution from Jackson Galaxy

My Cat From Hell did an episode on a non - stop meower. I couldn't find the "solution" half of the episode, but found a review and it sounds like they diagnosed the cat with separation anxiety. They moved his cat tree in front of the window so he could people and bird watch more easily, and prescribed regular play sessions with feather toys (I highly recommend Da Bird as an excellent toy). I'm not sure if there were other steps. But the owner has Crohns and was ending up in the hospital almost monthly because of cat induced stress, but they remedied the problem and got the cat to stop meowing. So there's hope!

Bathing a dog isn't solving the problem, it's just getting rid of the dandruff that's present.

As others have mentioned, start giving your dog some fish oil in his/her food. This is the one I get. It can be pricey, but it lasts quite a while. I put 1 or 2 squirts on top of the food each day. My dogs love it and their coats are great. I live in a very cold, dry climate too.

If you are going to shampoo your dog, use a shampoo with an oatmeal base. Something like this. As for frequency, you should refrain from bathing your dog as much as possible. In the spring, when it's muddy out I just rinse my labs with water in the tub. Once it starts to dry up outside, I give my dogs a good bath as they start to stink. That's probably the only bath (with shampoo) they get all year and they swim in a river everyday from April-October. Their natural oils will repel water and keep the stink off. The more your bathe your dog, the more you strip those oils and end up with a stinkier dog.

You could see if you are eligible for CareCredit in an emergency.

Edit: Not affiliated but had it recommended to me on Reddit. I know that credit cards suck but I had a great experience and a lot of vets in my area accept it.

Edit again: Also, Nutrical is one of the best things that I have found for sick cats. I've used it in all sorts of situations. It is important to keep a cat's blood sugar up.

Edit again (I should really think these posts through): Boiled chicken or boiled low fat hamburger are also great for sick cats with no appetite (I do the rescue cat thing).

Ty! I make a fresh batch once a week. I’ve been doing it for 8 years now. It’s more expensive than cheap kibble, but much much cheaper than any high quality food.

Here’s my recipe (vet approved)

1/3 by volume cooked protein (salmon, ground beef, beef stew meat, chicken thighs, pork loin, almost anything)

1/3 cooked quinoa (if cooking the meat makes broth, use it to cook the quinoa)

1/3 cooked ground vegetables (green beans, broccoli, zucchini, cauliflower, greens, any healthy nonstarchy veggie)

Low phosphorus calcium. I use this.

Here’s my weekly:
6 lbs meat
4 1/2 lbs veggies (usually frozen)
3 cups quinoa cooked using 6 cups water
1 tsp of the calcium per lb of food.

I also give them a doggie vitamin, a squirt of fish oil (I use this.

I split it into thirds and freeze 2/3, just to keep it fresher.

The dogs love it, and their coats glow. They get scrambled eggs twice a week for breakfast instead. Vet says to keep doing whatever I’m doing.

A tip, OP: give him lysine. I've just spent the last 5-6 months nursing a rescue kitten through poor health (but otherwise very happy and playful). It's a good vitamin to supplement the kitters' food, and helps fend off most viruses.

You can give him lysine treats, gel, or just sprinkle a powder into his food (I'm currently using [viralys](Vetoquinol Viralys Powder, 100gm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FULBT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ocWszb4SABXKX)). The vets can hook you up, but you also can use human-grade lysine supplements, which are a lot cheaper. You just have to figure out the dosage.

And, oh yeah, WHATTACUTIE!! 😻

My dog had the same problem (or similar) after she gave birth. It could actually be stress related. Also....normal human food? You can consider a raw diet of boiled chicken or raw dog food (which you can find at your local pet store hopefully, depending on where you live), but I'd actually look at going grain-free first. Lots of great brands out there, but I really like Costco's option, which is Nature's Domain, as it is very reasonably priced (though not the highest end dog food out there). I also gave her some of this: http://www.amazon.com/Halo-Vita-Dream-Natural-Supplement/dp/B0015QT5EU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405126190&sr=8-1&keywords=vitaglo and fish oil pills to help her coat. As to how much food, I can't say...I just go by the bag.

Switch to a better food.. I use taste of wild wetland.. Go to trader joes or a organic food store and pick up a jar of coconut oil.. I say trader joes because that's where I've seen it the cheapest.. Mix a tablespoon in to its food once a day.. Start slow tho.. With like a teaspoon then work your way up to about a tablespoon in a half through a couple weeks.. Some dogs if you mix to much in at first will get a belly ache..

Also brush the dog then rub some coconut oil on the problem area.. I rub a little all over them helps with smell and keeps him soft.. Then brush one more time to work it through.

This helped a lot for my dog.. I recently started adding salmon oil once a day too his food.. His skin is even better and much shiner.. I use

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-All-Natural-Supplement-Pump-Bottle-Dispenser/dp/B0002ABR6E

Hope this helps

Our cats are carriers but don’t have the full blown infection. We treat them with Lysine with great results. Once in the morning, once in the evening.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012GWCPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HPuUBbNFGXR08

I started giving my dog some Grizzly Salmon Oil about 2-3 months ago. It took several weeks to have a noticeable effect, but now the amount that she sheds has decreased pretty sharply and she seems to be much softer and her coat is much brighter.

Our vet recommended these! We just buy them from Amazon. You just pierce the pill and put it on the food. Our little girl loves it and actually encourages her to eat her food.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1BQB2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both of my doggies have really itchy skin right now, so this would be super helpful!

Datsyuk

Thanks for the contest!

I made food for 5 years. I used this mix to make sure its nutritional balance was right.

My cat loved it, and it suited him really well. I'm too busy now and have three cats, or I'd still do it.

This is the supplement my vet gave us, you powder it up and blend it into their food according to the package directions though I have found that a half a tab more doesn’t hurt.

I see my vet again in two weeks (he’s very rural, I used to live on a farm and now that I’ve moved for work it’s a 193 mile drive) and I’ll ask him about your case in person, since he only had a minute to chat just now.

Heck, if he’s amenable, I’ll pass on y’all’s info so you can get some of the “tinkle tonic” to try.

Above all, though, make sure your kitty is being treated for possible infection. If the vet hasn’t given him an antibiotic yet, please go get a second opinion.

Like I said, my family has a nearly ten year old tomcat and a three year old queen both with the same condition, and they currently have great quality of life. We have maybe three urination incidents a year now with my little girl, and my mom says that Walton only pees on things when he wants to now.

Y’all are in my family’s thoughts and I’ll report back when I see the doc.

My cat Cosmo (RIP) had this same problem. He had the beginning of kidney disease (due to age), some constipation issues, and loss of weight. Here are some things you can talk to your vet about and try. My vet agreed with all I was doing and it kept the test results for his kidneys from getting worse.

1.) Azodyl - The shipping on this will also be expensive, because it has to be shipped in a cooler with ice packs. When you get it, it has to be kept in your fridge as well. I would give my cat one in the morning and one in the evening. To make the pilling easier, I bought a small jar of this coconut oil for pets and would sip half the pill into it, and then put that end first into the back of my cat's throat. He took the pilling like a champ.

2.) Epakitin - They make this for both dogs and cats, and sometimes put in the larger plastic spoon for the dog dose, so just be aware to make sure you measure correctly and use your own measuring spoon if they do that. My cat would not eat this sprinkled or mixed in with his food, so I bought several cans of Feline Clinicare Renal, put a few CC's into a shot glass, mixed in the small dose of Epakitin, and then drew it into a 3 CC oral syringe and give it to him orally after the pilling, which also helped make sure the pill went down with ease. I would drop the pill in, and then quickly wash it down with half the syringe, let him swallow and then did the other half. Because my cat would not really drink the Renal Clinicare much on it's own, I would open the can, pour most into an ice cube tray, and freeze and then transfer to a small plastic bag in my freezer. If I took out a cube the night before, it was thawed by morning. I would keep the liquid it in tiny jar in the fridge and it would last a few days.

3.) Pet-Tinic - Vitamin/Minerals for older cats. My cat was low iron and my vet suggested this.

4.) If constipation is a chronic problem, you may want to ask your vet about lactulose, which you will need a prescription for.

Again, talk to your vet about all of this, and if the kidneys and constipation are addressed, your cat may begin to eat more again, though my cat just never really gained the weight back and was just bonier for a few years.

I hear lots of good about coconut oil but haven't personally tried it.

my kiddo is also 140lb gets 2 zyrtec every morning and 2 of these:
allerg-3 caps which I get from my vet and which are formulated for dogs. they also come in a pump version. I can definitely tell a change in his coat if he's off of them for a few days.
(chlorpheniramine, diphenhydramine, hydroxyzine all did little/nothing for him but I have not tried loratadine. he does ok on the cetirizine.)

also, bathing helps so much! invest in some medicated or hypoallergenic shampoo from your vet, and resicort if they have it.

my kiddo is prone to staph dermatitis secondary to his allergies. he gets malaseb baths once to twice weekly and I use resicort diluted 1:1 with water 2 to 3 times a week when he gets really bad.

I too, highly recommend salmon oil for dogs. My pit had awful mange and skin irritation when we adopted him...this stuff, along with a healthy diet and Benadryl (when he seemed to be scratching himself excessively) worked miracles. It's been a year later and his coat is amazing and the mange has subsided...we give him a few pumps of salmon oil with his food everyday. Definitely purchase off Amazon you will probably not find a better deal anywhere else.

I got this from Amazon - and I put a little less than a pump (so it's about 2.5 pumps per day) on her dry food and shake it around in her bowl. She goes NUTS over it!
It's good for her, and her fur has gotten super shiny and soft since we've started using it. It goes a really long way, so it's definitely worth the price.

sorry for the late response, sounds like you've got a good grasp on indie's diet. Here's what we supplement our boys' diet with, plus pumpkin 2x a day, in case you wanted to check it out:

http://www.amazon.com/Vegetarian-Glucosamine-formerly-Liquid-Health/dp/B000VKA93C/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1464040965&sr=8-3&keywords=k9+liquid+vegetarian+glucosamine

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-All-Natural-Supplement-Pump-Bottle-Dispenser/dp/B0002ABR6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464041095&sr=8-1&keywords=grizzly+salmon+oil

Salmon oil works wonders!
I put a squirt of this on my Aussie's dry food and his coat is beautiful.
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-All-Natural-Supplement-Pump-Bottle-Dispenser/dp/B0002ABR6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382825307&sr=8-1&keywords=grizzly+salmon+oil

It's this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Plaque-Off-Cats-40g-Formulation/dp/B004EA2OBK

I bought it somewhere else but this is the brand :)

Get some l-lysine it helps immensely with feline herpes. Our cats both have feline herpes and they get about an inch of this paste a day that they lick from our fingers http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012GWCPM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417163820&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

After a couple days the symptoms should improve and almost disappear. Keep them on the l-lysine regularly for prevention.

This is the one I take:

NOW Foods blah blah blah words

$20.25 / (.750 * 180) = $0.15 per gram

If you really care about the price, you can buy fish oil as a dog food supplement. I found this gem while looking for fish oil for my dog. It's not molecularly distilled like most human fish oils are, but the mercury and pcb levels are below detectable levels, if the company is to be believed.

linky link

The only source I could find for epa and dha levels.

32oz: $24.50/(.675*267) = $0.14 per gram

64oz: $41.55 /(.675*267*2) = $0.12 per gram.

All calculations do not include shipping. I have amazon prime so I do not pay shipping on these.

note I don't know much about epa vs dha and therefore i was only trying to maximize dha+epa.

I've found that salmon oil works well. Also, feeding your dog a grain-free diet could help. Dry, itchy skin is a common indication that a dog has a wheat allergy.

This happens to my english bulldog. We've never gotten a straight answer as to why, but somedays it looked like he pulled a muscle. Some days got so bad he couldn't put any weight on his back leg.

After a few vet visits that turned up nothing, we started giving him Salmon Oil in his food. http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-All-Natural-Supplement-Pump-Bottle-Dispenser/dp/B0002ABR6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405375839&sr=8-1&keywords=Salmon+oil

He has only been "sore" once in the year that we've had him on it. Worked for us.

My pit bull had mange when we adopted him and also gets skin irritation sometimes--the vet recommended a Benadryl, 1mg for each pound your dog weighs. My dog is 70-75lbs so we give him (3)25mg tablets a day if he's having issues. Also, just a few pumps of salmon oil a day has done wonders for him and he has an amazing coat now. The cheapest I've found is on Amazon

We use this oil and we just do a single pump per meal. It has some serving side suggestions on the bottle as well. Be sure to refrigerate it, as it can go rancid once it's been opened. I also recommend a smaller bottle (like 8 oz) for that reason as well, so you use it up before it goes bad.

We do about a teaspoon of coconut oil per meal as well. For reference, or Frenchie is about 22 lbs.

You can try giving your dog fish oil or Salmon Oil. If you give your dog too much, then they can have diarrhea. I feed my dog 2 times a day, but only give it to them in in the morning.

I got this one from Amazon and it's lasted months and months. My dog gets 3 squirts a day and this bottle should last me at least 4 more months.

If he suffers from dry skin try giving him fish oil. My dog had dry skin and dandruff and I started giving him fish oil and it went away. I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ABR6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a supplement I mix into his food once a day. I had to do some research, we are visiting my parent's place and I forgot to bring it with me.

i had the same issue with my shib, i decided to add salmon oil to her food ( Kiwi Peak Lamb) and she has never "itched itched" again, she now just does the shiba itching every so often

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https://www.amazon.ca/Grizzly-Wild-Salmon-Oil-32-Ounce/dp/B0002ABR6E/ref=asc_df_B0002ABR6E/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292961957265&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16106996455925664204&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061009&hvtargid=pla-353309683625&psc=1

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A lot of people use this salmon oil that you squirt on your dog's food.

This lysine is cheap while this one is more palatable. Each would be 1/4 tsp on food twice a day. And for a single cat either container would last a long time.

Whatever you do, keep him on a wet food. There are ph strips you can buy to test at home. But if you've had urinary problems with your kitty before, you probably know the signs to watch out for, and know the cost involved with a blockage. So keep all that in mind. High moisture is important for all cats, not just ones who have had blockages in the past.

55lb female, Nutro Lamb and Brown Rice dry kibble, 1.25 cup twice a day, with some salmon oil poured over it. Plus misc. treats - she gets one Blue Buffalo dental chew a day, and a few misc. Orijen whole prey duck treats as rewards when she behaves. That, and table scraps, she's really got the puppy dog eye look down.

I had initially tried feeding her Blue Buffalo Grain Free Chicken, but we ended up discovering that she has a chicken sensitivity and it was making her sick. I went to visit my parents about when we were realizing Sapphire was having an issue; they feed their little Shih Tzu the Nutro Lamb and Rice, and Sapphire kept ignoring her food and stealing Coco's food instead, and she seemed to stomach it better. I later got into contact with her previous owners (I got her as an owner surrender at a shelter), and found out they had been feeding her lamb and brown rice (albeit a walmart brand) from puppyhood.

The fish oil makes a huge difference, btw. She almost never gets sick to her stomach any more since she started getting that.

my border collie had a real issue with dry itchy skin and flaking. i added this salmon oil to her food once a day and the problem cleared up after a few days. i cant speak to the welts, though.