Reddit mentions: The best collated nails

OSB is good when it's not exposed to water. The OSB-based siding is more resistant to moisture than the type used for roof and floor decking. I would use 7/16" OSB for the roof decking, check local craigslist ads to find it cheaper than the big box stores. For the flooring, I would use straight 3/4" plywood, what used to be called CDX but now is called something different. If you find a deal on OSB floor underlayment that's too good to pass up, I would paint the underside before installing it and you'll need to surface it with something to keep it from splintering up as you move stuff across it. Glued-down roll vinyl flooring would work well for that, and it can often be found fairly cheap as remnants and such. OSB floor decking is normally at least 3/4" thick with tongue and groove long edges, and it has different internal and surface strand orientation to make it stronger in the long direction specifically to use as floor underlayment.

As for tools, you'll need a nail gun and a small compressor. This is a decent nailer: http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/21+DEG+ANGLE+FULL+HEAD+FRAMING+AIR+NAILER

Note, it's 21 degrees, nailers come in different degrees, and it's important to get 21 degree nails to go with it. I like these nails: https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-20163S-Framing-Galvanized-Collation/dp/B004TSSC72 They are hot dipped galvanized which will hold up much better than zinc plated. These are 3-1/2" long, giving plenty of grip area for the shank. You can also get some some shorter ones for the siding and roof decking if you want, but I wouldn't go shorter than 2". Be sure to get a bottle of air tool oil and use a few drops every day before you start nailing.

A good tape measure is important. A framing square is good for smaller items, but you'll need to use the 3-4-5 method and cross-corner measurement methods to square up the floor structure before attaching the plywood decking. The 3-4-5 method is based on the fact that in a right triangle with the short sides measuring 3 on one side and four on the other, will measure 5 on the hypotenuse, the distance between the ends of the other two sides. It's a ratio, so any multiplier will work. For instance, if you measure 6' on one side and eight feet on the other, the diagonal distance between the two ends of the sides will be 10' apart if the two sides are perfectly square. The cross-corner method is to measure the length across opposite corners, and if they're the same then the rectangle is square. If one diagonal is longer than the other, then it's not square and you need to shift things around to make it square.

For the level, on something that big, you can look up how to build an Egyptian level using a bucket of water and some tubing, or it may be easier to rent a level laser.

A screw gun will be helpful, especially if you're using metal roofing and/or siding. If you are using sinewave tin, a.k.a. corrugated tin, make sure you install the screws with the rubber washer in the high part of the tin, not the low part, otherwise you'll be getting lots of leaks. If you're doing shingles, a chalk line will be extremely valuable to snap the shingle lines.

For cutting the plywood, lay it on top of some 2x4s to keep the saw blade from hitting the ground, and use a straight edge to guide the cut. Do a test cut, just barely a nibble, to measure exactly how far from each edge of the circular saw the edge of the cut is, and write that down on a piece of masking tape on the saw. Use that measurement to calculate where to put the straight edge before cutting. Here's a straight edge saw guide: https://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html Be sure to take a 20% off coupon for that one. Remember, at HF you can use as many coupons as you want, but it's one coupon per item and one 20% coupon per day, though it's really just one 20% coupon per visit. Don't forget take a freebie coupon.

>Also important to note: the price of an "installed nail" is the cost of the nail plus the labor required to install it.

Yes, I'm very well aware of that, considering that I used nail guns almost every day of my life. Again, gun nails have gone up dramatically over the last few years.

This box of nails is probably the most commonly purchased gun nail in the country. Just a few years ago that box sold for about $15 at a big box store.

Literally cheaper than nails

you see wood that's been deformed into the hole around the nail and toward the point a ribbed pattern because it's a ring shank nail.

How convienent, I was in the market for a mouse.
But I decided to spend a couple more bucks because it's still cheaper than nails and i didn't hear any massive backlash from the internet.

Evidently Senco is into the plastic fasteners now - https://www.amazon.com/SENCO-M006105-Plastic-Composite-Finish/dp/B073XCZDDH

We don't use .113s for sheathing. Get .131s or .148s depending on the plans. Any decent lumberyard should have them.

edit: for example, http://www.dunnlumber.com/Store/ProductDetail.aspx?pg=1620&pl1=2436&pid=15547

https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-Brite-Strip-Degree-JobPak/dp/B073ZLL33X

$0.05 per screw, vs $0.004 per nail. More than an order of magnitude difference in price - and that's for the expensive fancy DeWalt ones.

If you strike your fingers repeatedly you may be carpentry challenged, the things that you can use to avoid this are:

• Pliers
  
• Clothes pin
  
• Comb
  
• Piece of paper for very small nails
  
• Piece of cardboard
  
• Split piece of wood
  
• Nail holder from Micro-Mark
  
• Thumbsaver from Amazon