(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best fish & aquatic pets

Too small for a bristlenose, and you want 6 neons (this tank is too small for them as well). I don't know much about kuhli loaches, but this is probably a tight fit for them too.

This is also a very, very heavy stocking for a 13.7 gallon aquarium. As this is your first tank, I highly suggest going for a small stock and getting a feel for it - solving problems with a low bioload is much easier, and will give you much needed practice for when things occur down the road.

I would recommend that you get solely a male betta for now. Your decor choice is good, and I applaud you for going with sand over gravel. It's much better, objectively.

If you can find them at your local fish store (LFS), pick up some Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS). They'll aerate the substrate and cycle waste into the sand, as well as eat uneaten food and decaying plant matter.

In terms of filtration, you could probably get away with an air pump and a sponge. If you have a fair chunk of money to dedicate to this aquarium, my filter of choice for tanks under 15 gallons is the ZooMed 501. If that is outside of your budget, an AquaClear 20 would be great. I would have the outflow disperse over your driftwood to avoid churning up your sand. If you need creative ideas, feel free to post here again and we can help you figure something out. The primary advantage of the canister is that it is dead silent, and comes with a spray bar which greatly helps to disperse the flow (bettas do not appreciate lots of flow in their environment).

I would do your damnedest to keep the tank out of sunlight, as this will contribute to rampant algae problems. It should have a dedicated light. You can purchase a clamp light and 6500K CFL bulb from home depot for about $15 total. Very wise investment, and this allows you to grow plants!

You need to keep the tank (for a Betta) at 78-80F. If your ambient temperature is not this, you will require a heater. My personal favourite heater for small aquariums are manufactured by Hydor. Aim for 50W for the set up. Here is a link to one.

There is a very good link regarding cycling in the sidebar. It can be found here.

While I do not know your water's composition, I would still recommend treating it with SeaChem Prime. This helps out with some heavy metals as well. While I am not sure if it will benefit you, it is fairly cheap and you'll get a ton of uses out of it for the cost. Hopefully someone with a similar water source to yours will chime in, as I myself am on municipal supply and must dechlorinate my water.

Earlier when I mentioned lighting, I mentioned plants. These are a great addition to your aquarium and your fish will appreciate them. For beginner plants, I would recommend looking into Anubias and Java Fern. They do not grow in substrate, but rather on decor and can be fastened to your driftwood with zip ties or string. They absorb nutrients from the water column, helping to clean your tank while providing refuge for your fish. I would also recommend a floating plant, as it will dim the lights and provide your betta with cover. Frogbit is great, and very cheap in my experience. It grows very well. None of these plants require you to do ANYTHING extra aside from get that light I mentioned. There are fancier alternatives, but they are not necessary for this set up with the above plants. I highly recommend setting your lights up on a timer and keeping them on for 8 hours a day. If you notice algae, reduce light.

I hope this helps. If you have anymore questions feel free to let me know. Really great of you to come and ask for advice BEFORE purchasing an animal, kudos to you.

Be sure to check out /r/bettafish and /r/plantedtank. Within you'll find lots of guides and extremely knowledgeable people. I would highly recommend reading the majority of links from the side bar in those two subreddits, as well as this one. There's a trove of information at your disposal. Here's a link to /r/Aquariums' wiki.

Finally, here's a care sheet specifically about Bettas!

Hopefully that wasn't too long winded for you. Best of luck in the hobby.

This is seriously a wall of text. Sorry. I know it was a simple question, but there is a range. I also wanted to make sure you knew where the cost was coming from, so that's why this is so awkwardly long.

Lets start with what you will need. Generally speaking, you can keep bettas in smaller bowls than you normally would. I personally have my betta in a 1.5 gallon bowl. If you do any research, you will find people saying that you must must must have them in a 5 gallon tank. This is not necessarily true. The way I was trained, is that for every inch of fish, there needs to be a gallon of water. My little guy is only and inch long, so he is in one gallon of water (plus some, because decorations). They can get up to two inches, maybe even three, but it is not common. I plan on upgrading to a five gallon tank anyway soon (I have to move first), so if he gets any bigger, it won't be a huge concern for me. The great thing about bettas is that they can be kept in smaller areas. That being said, you have to do more work the smaller the tank you get. So for example, I have to make sure that my water is still clean, just like any responsible fish owner. This means, with a smaller bowl, that I have to change it more frequently (which I personally don't mind doing). Water quality is hugely important in the health and happiness of your fish. Now, the bowl I have is a nice glass bowl that looks like this and it would cost $25-$30 (but I got it for free from a coworker). A tank that is the 5 gallon recommendation that you will see in a lot of places can cost anywhere from $40 to even $100 dollars, depending on the brand and stuff (there are some tanks that come with filter, heater, light bulb, water starter, etc). Lids are not necessary, but some bettas will jump. If you do get a lid for your bowl/tank, make sure that it have air holes in it. Bettas have a primitive lung, called a Labyrinth organ, which allows them to also take oxygen from the air. Without this ability, bettas can drown.

Another great thing about bettas is that they are fine without a filter, and in fact don't really like the filter moving the water around (like I mentioned before, they are naturally found in rice paddies, which have standing water with little to no flow). So that is a cost you don't have to worry about. Now, if you wanted to get a tank and have other fish and a betta, you would have to have a filter. Bettas can live with non-aggressive schooling fish, and females bettas can live together (generally). Of course, with all fish, you may get some that you have to house alone. I know of a couple who had a guppy they had to return because it was literally killing all the other fish in their tank. A guppy. Yeah. It really just depends on the personality of the fish in some cases.

One thing that some say a betta doesn't need is a heater. While this is technically true, I would really recommend that you have a heater for your betta. This is the one I have, and it works well for my bowl. Bettas are a tropical fish, and they do need to be kept warm, generally between 76 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Along with the heater, I would recomend getting a thermometer to keep on the inside of your tank or bowl, and those generally only cost a few bucks. Bettas are a tropical fish and they do need the warmth. Without it, your fish will be miserable. It will live, probably, but it will be sad.

Another thing you will need is decoration. Not just to make your tank look pretty, but also to give the fish someplace to live. Fish, just like people, need a place to go if they get stressed or scared. A simple hideout will do, or even some plants. Here are examples of decorated tanks. One and two. Two, though, doesn't really have a decoration for the fish to hide inside of, which I would really recommend. When shopping for a decoration for your betta to hide in, rub your fingers along the entrances and the inside. If it feels rough, it may be dangerous to have for your betta. Their long, thin fins can be easily torn. It is also for this reason that I recommend against plastic plants. I would shop only for silk plants or live plants (though if you have a live plant they can murk up your water). If you have gravel and a house, your betta will be fine. It doesn't need plants. For every one gallon of water your tank holds, get a pound of gravel/sand for the bottom of your tank. So I have 1.5 lbs, a 5 gallon tank would need 5 lbs of gravel or sand. I would say that decor for your tank could run you about $15 if you just get the bare minimum for a bowl, maybe up to $30 depending on if you have a tank that you need to fill. Everything after that is just gravy.


You will need a water conditioner. I used Tetra brand Betta Safe water conditioner. You can get it here from Amazon for just a few dollars. If you buy it in store, it will be more expensive (anywhere from $5-$10). The reason you need water conditioner is so that you can use tap water to fill your bowl. Tap water has all sorts of stuff that is bad for your fish (chlorine, namely), and the water conditioner gets rid of that. Fill your tank, add conditioner, and 5 minutes later you're reader to add your fish. You don't have to cycle your tank (run the nitrogen cycle) for bettas, but you do need to be aware of the ammonia levels. If you go into your local pet store, they should be able to test your water and let you know if your ammonia levels are suitable to have a fish in. This is generally free.

You will also need food. Some people get multiple types of food (pellets and frozen blood worms). I get my pellets that already have blood worms in them, so I don't have to worry about it. Most people only feed their betta sparingly, like twice a week. It should only be what they can eat within five minutes, others do 1 pellet on the week days and 2 pellets on the week ends (AM and PM). It's really up to you. Neither way is going to be better for your fish, just make sure you don't over feed. This can murk up your water or even lead to digestive problems. Food should only cost about $5.


The fish, depending on the type of betta, can run anywhere from $3 to $20+ dollars. The cheapest fish at the place I work is the female veiltail betta. Females don't have the flashy fins or the pretty colors that the males do, so they are generally cheaper. The male veiltail is only a dollar more though. The most expensive fish that we sell is the Elephant Ear Halfmoon Plakat Betta, which can run up to $40. The fish is all based on your personal preference.

So, adding all that up:

Tank: $25-$100

Heater: $12

Thermometer: $5

Decor: $15-30

Water Conditioner: $2-$10

Food: $5-10

Fish:$3-40


Your grand total would be about $67 dollars before tax on the lower end and $196 before tax on the highest end discussed in this post. That $67 is plenty to start your betta on the road to a happy life in your home, on a counter or someplace (not in front of a window or near a vent, of course). If you wanted to upgrade later on, like I plan to, you could do that to, and build up your supplies over the long run. You can also check sales (for example, my store is having a 30% off fish sale this week, so I would check some pet stores in your area and see if there would be similar deals at other stores), and you can always check craigslist for used things tha tprevious fish owners don't want or need any more, :)

This is probably waaaayyyy more of an answer than you were expecting, but I like fish, and I had nothing better to do than write this. Now, some other people may have better advice, and that's totally cool and awesome, and I encourage you to look for all the advice you want. I have worked at this pet store for less than a year, and have only been a betta owner for a few months, so I'm sure that loads of people have more information that they can give you if you seek it. If you have any more questions, though, feel free to ask me. I'll do my best to answer them for you :)

Edit: I noticed the other commenter say something about the filters, and I just wanted to say that this is a differing opinion from what I have seen. The way I was trained is that they don't need and don't like filters, but I can see that this would be an issue if you have a larger tank. If you have a larger tank, definitely get a filter because it won't move the water too much and it will make life much easier for you!

Okay, wall-o-text incoming! Here's some things I learned before and during the whole process.

• An adjustable heater is great to have. Having an adjustable heater was super helpful when I got an infestation of ich, since I just raised the temp for a few weeks and totally solved the issue. I got this one, which was the cheapest heater I could find that didn't have a lot of it-malfunctioned-and-killed-my-fish reviews. It does run a little hotter than the adjustment knob reads, but I just tweak it using my thermometer for reference. I'm happy with it and a lot of people on the aquarium subs I visit reccomend it.
  
  
• The filter: When I set up my tank, I wanted a small filter that didn't hang over the back (easier to put a lid on the tank, plus the waterfalls from HOB filters are louder than I wanted for a tank in my bedroom). I ended up getting this one, which has been really nice because 1) the output's adjustable so I can point it anywhere and 2) the flow is adjustable too so I can tweak it for a low flow that's not too much for my betta. It's also quiet!
  
  
• The light I went with was this one in a desk lamp. If you don't get a light that's specifically made for aquarium plants, make sure that it's in the temperature spectrum of 5500K-6500K (6500K is best). You're looking for something that mimics the temperature of sunlight. For brightness, people tend to argue about the best way to measure what you need, but since nobody wants to buy a PAR meter for just a 5g low-tech tank, you're probably okay going by the watts-per-gallon rule (that's actual wattage, not equivalent wattage). Low light would be 1.5-2 WPG, medium light would be 2-3. Mine's 2.6. Then there's how long you keep the light on: my understanding is that when you start a tank, you want to have the photoperiod shorter at first (like 6 hours/day) and then over a few weeks increase it to 8-9 hours/day. You can get a timer for a few bucks at Home Depot.
  
  
• Looking back at your plants, java fern and moss are great beginner plants and I've really enjoyed mine. Amazon sword grows leaves ~20 inches tall, which would be too big for a 5 gallon. Water wisteria also grows that tall, but you can keep trimming it back so it might still work. Anacharis and anubias are some other easy-to-grow plants that have worked for me.
  
  
• I started out using root tabs for fertilizer, but I've still had issues with nutrient deficiency, which in hindsight makes sense because most of my plants aren't super rooty. So recently I bought some liquid fertilizers - you need to take care of both macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, aka NPK) and micronutrients (lots of other trace elements). I bought Flourish to deal with the micros, and then Flourish Nitrogen, Flourish Phosphorus, and Flourish Potassium to take care of the other ones. The smallest bottles are about $8 each, but it's enough to last a long time for a 5g. Too early for me to see how it'll play out, though. Having a medicine dropper has been helpful for measuring both fertilizers and water conditioner.
  
  
• Lots of people also like to use a source of carbon for their aquariums (like Flourish Excel), although I haven't tried that yet. My understanding is that it's helpful for getting plants to grow better, whether or not you also use CO2.
  
  
• For cycling your tank and checking parameters, a liquid test kit is both more accurate and cheaper in the long run, so go with one of those. Having a lot of plants in an aquarium also helps it cycle faster, so that's good.
  
  
• A snail is great for cleaning up algae in your tank, although if you get runaway algae problems it's probably indicating some other issue. You can also try getting shrimp depending on your betta's temperament. For adding any tankmate, you'll be most likely to have success if you introduce it at the same time as your fish (or after majorly rearranging things) so he doesn't get a territory staked out beforehand and act more aggressive.
  
  That's what comes to mind right now, if you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll try to help you as best as I can. /r/plantedtank is also super helpful for answering questions!

Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...

 

First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.

I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.

 

Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.

 

The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.

 

One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.

 

The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.

 

If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.

 

I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.

 

Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.

 

Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.

 

I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.


 

I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.

 

TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.

First and foremostly!!! You need this FISHLESS CYCLE GUIDE :) - The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF

>For light: I’m not too worried about this. I think I’m just going to buy whatever has good review on amazon?

Any light could do, even a table lamp with a good LED bulb w/ 4100K to 6500K (Kelvin scale) light color range, with 1-2 watts of lighting power per gallon.

​

>For heaters: I’m trying to decide between the Aqueon Pro Adjustable Heater, 100W ($32ish) and the Aqueon Pro Adjustable Heater, 50W ($17ish). Does anyone know which one is better for my 10 gallon?

10g tank only needs a 50w adjustable heater, UNLESS you live in an extremely cold climate where a 50w is not enough to keep the tank at the necessary 78-80F. Usually though, 5w of power per gallon is sufficient for heating power.

​

>For filters: I’m wanting to go with the sponge filters because I know they hold good bacteria and they’re more inexpensive, but I was also eyeing this aqueon quietflow (Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xPbNDbXVQYK33). I mainly would prefer the sponge filter because it’s so much cheaper and I know the flow won’t be too strong for a betta, but my problem is that I don’t understand what to buy. If anyone could dumb sponge filters down for me or recommend a bit of a filter shopping list, I would really appreciate it.

Here's my favorite sponge filter setup which I use in my own 5.5g tanks (they're rated for up to 20g and are nice compact sponge filters, so do not take away much space from your tank).

https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/ Me and my bettas LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!!

AND from Petsmart - I HIGHLY recommend the TopFin Quartz BioBalls ceramic filter media, the rounded pearl shape makes them fit a lot more into a small space such as the dual-media chambers in the sponge filter I highly recommended above. It looks like this in store: https://i.imgur.com/Xz50k5F.jpg (I think it's not yet listed on their website because the stuff is still a new release).

https://www.amazon.com/U-picks-Aquarium-Gallon-Quietest-Accessories/dp/B07RRNDMXJ/ Nice air pump with all accessories to set it up - quiet mini air pump, check valve, and airline tubing.

See it all in action: https://i.imgur.com/KAyjMaj.mp4 (not my tank but my friends when she was fishless cycling hers, and the sponge filter is nicely visible. Mine is hidden behind bunch of silk plants :< lol)

​

>Substrate: I’ve decided I want a low tech planted tank from the getgo. I would like some kind of carpet, I know this will be hard to achieve without CO2, but I’m ready to try it. I also want one of those sword plants I see around this sun. I want my plants to be able to root, but I also kind of want sand because it is my understanding that it will be easier to clean? Can I do something like soil with a layer of fluorite and another layer sand on top? Am I unnecessarily adding a bunch of layers here?

I donno much about planted tank substrates, I just use regular gravel (but I don't have a fully planted tank - hopefully someone w/ more info on that can weigh in).

>I want to start cycling as soon as possible, but I can’t until I get this together and I just want to do this right the first time around. Any advice would be appreciated.

The Nitrogen Cycle and the Fishless Cycle - getting your aquarium ready for fish - INJAF

API Freshwater Master Test Kit MUST MUST MUST HAVE ... and then Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability...

​

>One more thing, I really like the look of the bonsai wood with Marimo balls unfurled on them to imitate little trees. Does anyone know if this is safe for bettas? I worry that the fins could get torn up or something.

I'd use Java Moss instead... looks more tree-like than Marimo moss balls on those driftwoods... should be ok if you are very careful to fill up any prickly sharp parts so that betta won't have any way to get hurt on them.

The most expensive part is gonna be the tank itself. Everything else you can find for pretty cheap on amazon.

I’d recommend a 5 gallon tank, this sponge filter, this heater, and you can find super cheap air pumps and tubing on amazon as well. I have also seen them for pretty cheap at petco/petsmart.

Sponge filters are super cheap to begin with and super easy to maintain and are best with bettas because of their low flow. I think they look nicer too and you don’t need to have a clunky, ugly lid since it doesn’t need to hang from the top.

Here is how my tank has evolved, and IMO has gotten much more aesthetically pleasing!

If you can I’d recommend pushing your friend towards live plants! They look nicer, are better for your fish, and help complete the ecosystem in your tank. There are some awesome plant options for low tech set ups (like so low tech you just put them in and add a bit of seachem flourish when they look like they need a boost). I currently have anubias, tropica fern, and amazon sword. Also moss balls look really cool!

You don’t even need to spend money on aquarium decor; clean mugs or jars work well as places to hide and I think it’s a unique look in the tank. I use little terra cotta pots so if you have those on hand those work great too (just plug the hole at the bottom).

Aqua swap is a good place to keep an eye out for a 2nd hand tank on the cheap, as well as plants, driftwood, basically anything else you’ll need!

Good luck finding this buddy a new home!! Post pics when he’s settled in!

I too suffer from the living in an apartment and trying to keep fish problem, so I feel your pain! Aside from the second tank setup for your other 2 goldies, I highly recommend getting a Python, I didn't even know they existed until I saw one on this subreddit and it blew me away. Before I was doing water changes the same way, except I was using a five gallon bucket from home depot. After you remove water from your tank, dose your tank with Prime (the entire volume of the tank, so however much it says for 30 gallons) and then just add the water back in the way you normally would. I'm not sure if there is a much faster way to do it unfortunately. I know it's a pain, but the water changes are worth it in the long run. Try to change at least 50% once a week, but you can spread it out if you want (think ~25% twice a week). The Aqueon version of the Python is a little bit less expensive, and I'm sure it works about the same. Also in terms of tanks, Petco has a dollar per gallon sale going on right now, but I think it ends today. They usually do them about once every few months, and occasionally Petsmart will do one as well, that's a great way to get cheap tanks.

And you're welcome! Starting out it's overwhelming how much information it seems like you have to process, but it does get easier! I'm still learning things all the time, this subreddit has been a great help as well. Feel free to PM me if you ever have other questions, I'll do my best to help. And in the meantime, if you have any additional questions about goldfish care, Solid Gold Aquatics is a really great resource on youtube, and she has a blog as well. She has a lot of really informative videos on everything from cycling tanks to feeding your fish, her channel has been immensely helpful to me. Good luck!

There's also this tank from Petsmart, which is a pretty darn good deal for 5 gallons plus tank plus corner filter (I got the Top Fin 5.5 gallon, and it comes with a sucky hang on back filter that was WAY too strong for my betta Drax) or if you wanted something a bit smaller, there's this option. BUT, that tank doesn't have a light, heater, or filter. I recommend the Hydor Theo heater for the 5 gallon tank, and the Hydor mini for the 2.5.

As for water parameters, are you conditioning your water at all when you do water changes? If not, the chlorine/chloramines in the water might be getting to him. I totally recommend Prime by Seachem - gets rid of chlorine/chloramines/temporarily detoxifies ammonia.

Otherwise, having live plants can do a world of difference for a betta; they tend to like more of a jungle environment; as long as the plants are "low tech/low light" and get some light throughout the day, they should survive in a tank with regular water changes. And the best part about all natural plants? They don't tear betta fins! :) I'd recommend ordering some from www.liveaquaria.com or www.plantedaquariumscentral.com - both are highly regarded among the planted tank community, and their rates are super reasonable.

EDIT: The reason I recommend these guys as opposed to getting plants from Petco or Petsmart is because both of those corporations tend to sell mis-labeled and non-aquatic plants as true aquatic plants - I fell for this and ended up having to get rid of at least three of my aquarium plants because of my mistake. >.<

Also, if you get the 2.5 gallon and think you can afford it, I totally recommend the sponge filter + air pump combo for filtration; excellent biological and mechanical filtration once the tank is cycled, and it's pretty cheap to boot. Well, cheaper than other options. (I think I paid...$20 for all of my sponge filters - 4 of them - then $10 for 8 feet of silicone air tubing + a set of 5 check valves to prevent back siphoning. The main cost was the air pumps themselves at $9/apiece for three of them. So...$57 grand total for four filter setups? I keep shrimp as well, and they need sponge filtration, so I jumped in feet first, I guess. :P) Otherwise, Marina's I25 filter would work well also, provided your betta can stand a little more current/won't get his fins caught in the intake.

In the meantime, if he's fighting his reflection, it can sometimes help to put some light-colored paper on the outside walls of the tank; it can reduce the reflections he sees.

Golly, sorry for the novel of a post!

Bettas can get along with a variety of community fish. Whether an individual betta does is up to the fish--they do have different personalities so while one betta may be mellow and be perfectly fine with tankmates, another may not take too kindly to other fish in his space.

There are a few things you can do to maximize your chances of success in keeping betta with tankmates.

One is to not pick any fish to go in with the betta that are very brightly coloured and/or have long, flowing fins, because the betta is likely to mistake this other fish as another male betta.

The other is to introduce the other fish first; if when putting the betta into his new home, the other fish are already there, he's more likely to just accept their existence, whereas if you try to add new fish to HIS tank once he's already settled in, he'll see them as intruders.

A good bet with bettas are corydoras catfish, in a 10g you could do dwarf or pygmy corydoras which are the smallest species. Since they're bottom-level fish, they won't really intrude much on the betta's space because most bettas are middle to top level fish. One thing to note is that if you get corys you'll also want to do sand substrate, since gravel can damage their barbels.

So here is a list of potential gear, there are a couple of options on some categories:

10 Gallon Standard Tank $10 in-store at Petco (Dollar per Gallon ends the 19th BTW)

AquaClear Hang On Back Filter $28 This is a little pricey, but it's probably the best hang on back filter on the market. It's more powerful than the other ones I've listed. Part of why it's so great is because it's very customizable, you can put your own filter media in if you want (the stuff it comes with is not bad though). Also it's really easy to clean which is a plus.

Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter $14 A lot of people don't like internal filters because it's a bit messier to clean since it's fully submerged; personally I don't mind cleaning it and also because it's totally underwater I find it a lot quieter that most filters which might be a good thing if you're keeping it in your bedroom. I'd suggest not using the little cartridge it comes with and stuffing it with your own biomedia and filter floss, but it's powerful and compact.

Tetra Whisper in Tank Filter $11 This is the only filter here I don't personally own, but I believe a lot of people on /r/bettafish use this one and like it.

Glass Canopy $20 Not necessary, but I think they look nicer than a bulky plastic hood. I do suggest some kind of covering for your tank since bettas are known to jump. It could be something as simple as a big sheet of plastic canvas cut to fit, which is a couple dollars.


So technically the above gear, assuming you buy the most inexpensive filter option, comes to $41 pretax. A little over the $39.99 all in one kit you originally wanted, but you are getting twice the gallonage, and also higher-quality gear--glass tank instead of plastic, and a semi-decent filter. And again, you could go a lot cheaper on the lid if you were so inclined and either save your money or put it towards a more expensive filter.

You'll also need a heater for a betta. I think a lot of fishkeepers have their favourite brands for this kind of thing, Hydor Theo is mine, self-regulating glass heaters are way better than the plastic pad kind without regulators because it turns itself on and off automatically as needed. Also, I would recommend ALWAYS getting a heater that can be adjusted to whatever temperature you need. Treating certain illnesses require you to turn up or down the temperature so that's an invaluable feature IMO. Also the knob on this model (unlike a lot of brands I've tried) is really easy to turn so that's kind of a bonus when your hands are all wet.

If you like internal filters the Aqueon quietflows and Tetra Whispers are always good. I use HOB power filters on my tanks. I use an AquaClear on my 29 gallon and a Tetra whisper hob filter on my 4.3 gal, but the flow is a bit strong on them so I use a baffle. Theres also external canister filters, but those are really pricey and there are only a few canister filters available for tanks under 10 gallons. Sponge filters are also good choices for bettas and are almost a necesitty if you plan to add shrimp eventually, I dont have any experience with them though.

Lighting is a bit complicated because if you choose one too strong and dont have any live plants (it looks like the tank has a few though) then it will definitely spur algae growth. I use some a cheap one from amazon that has a pretty low wattage and on my tank with only java fern in it. But I use the AZOO Flexi light for my planted 4.3 gal with no algae issues on either. Also when you cycle algae will probably begin to grow but that is natural and nothing to worry about.

Also if the plexiglass covers the whole top of the tank and is thick then it will be a bit humid, youre right on that. It will definitely have to be temporary. The petstores near me never have any lids besides the metal ones that you would normally use for non-aquatic tanks, and they run for 20-30$ plus shipping online.

For transporting him you could use a bag, some pet stores sell bags specifically made for transporting fish. I usually use the cups that bettas come in, but since he is your first you probably wont have any lying around, so a plastic bag would be your best bet.

Id wait to get snails or shrimp until you upgrade to the 20 gal. Unless you choose a smaller snail species like nerites, then you could add one to the 5 gal. Apple and mystery snails get very big and have a large biomass so you would want a larger tank and good filtration for them. He would probably be really nice as a centerpiece if you do get the 20 gal long. Some bettas dont like shrimp (mine ate them), but many usually get along with snails.

Edit: I also agree with the other commenter. New water conditioner is probably needed and new food eventually. I use this food, overall though Omega One makes decent food. On the more expensive side, Ive heard Northfin Betta Bits are good and high in protein.

If a fish is inactive, it usually means they don't have enough room to swim around and explore. 5 gallons is beautiful for a betta, you should do a 5 gallon with live plants, it's beautiful to look at! If you're concerned about price as well, here are some good options:

• Petco has 5 gallon Aqueon tanks for sale for ~$16 dollars.
  
• A good filter to use for these would be the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter AT10. I use one of these in a 1.5 gallon hospital tank, but the gph is good for up to 5 gallons. And it's only $15!
  
• You can use anything for a tank lid, but if cost is an issue, these guys work great, ~$7.
  
• A good, inexpensive heater is the Hydor 25 watt heater. ~15 bucks and from what I've heard (I'm getting one tomorrow for my new Spec V so I'll update if anything goes wrong) it's amazing.
  
• You can use any substrate that supports plant life, but I personally use Eco-Complete Plant Substrate. It's around $20 for a 20 lb. bag, so it's a pretty good deal as well.
  
• Plants in general can be quite inexpensive. If you just buy a couple of Anubias (the large variety) and some java ferns, maybe some Anacharis to float or bunch, you're looking at ~$34 dollars (give or take) for the entirety of your tank's plants.
  
  All in all, you're looking at ~$107 for a better tank for your fish, or ~$53 for just the basic set up (minus the live plants/plant supporting substrate). If you want lighting, I've heard that basic desk lamps like this one work great in lieu of expensive LED setups.
  
  OR
  
  You can buy a Fluval Spec V, they're on sale for $59.99 and come with a filter, lighting, lid, etc. All you would need is substrate and a heater.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!

3 gallons is considered an absolute minimum for fish, while 5 gallons is a recommended minimum. And with good reason - going from, say, 3 gallons to 10 gallons means you need more than three times as much stuff (heat, acid/base, waste, etc.) to change aspects of water quality (temperature, pH, ammonia/nitrite, etc.) the same amount. But you should be fine, as long as you're willing to put in effort and learn.

I recommend you take a look at a Fluval Spec III and, if you're comfortable, Spec-Tanks' mod section. It's a pretty small footprint at 8"x12", so it should fit most places. A three-gallon tank of any kind will be safe on any halfway decent table, as it should weigh ~30 pounds tops (25 pounds of water + ~5 pounds of glass and substrate sounds right). I'm running and quite liking my Spec V - the same thing, but twice as wide in the part of the tank things live - but there are a few things you should probably try. I recommend the flow tube modification for sure and adding a heater in that column. Bettas are tropical, after all.

Just be sure the tank is cycled and that you keep up maintenance. I have, uh, far more bioload than I probably should ^(Keep this our secret, alright? And don't follow my example...) and nothing has died yet. 40-50% weekly water changes complete with gravel vacuuming. For a single betta, you could probably get away with less, to be honest. However, it's easy enough, especially when all your equipment is set up, that there's no point slacking. No need to take him out of the tank. He'll learn quickly that the siphon is not food, a mate, or another male and will ignore it. Even if he gets caught in the suction, he should be able to swim free unless his fins are so large that he can't move normally anyway. And, ya know, you should be paying attention. :P Just siphon it into a bucket. I have one of those orange buckets from Home Depot and it works just fine. Looks for plastics with the #2 recycling label, as those are very definitely safe for fish.

Plants can help a bit, but they aren't a substitute for keeping clean. The ammonia wastes immediately produced by the betta and any other animals (pro-tip: invertebrates are neat) becomes nitrite (toxic) and then nitrate (toxic in high concentrations). Plants use nitrate as fertilizer, and they will absorb some other minerals, but they will NOT keep your tank clean. More of a buffer, I suppose, but even then only if there's more plant matter than water. If you want something that you literally cannot kill, I highly recommend Java moss. Even with my black thumb, my original clump has grown by a factor of five or so, and this is after "pruning" parts with algae. You can't kill it unless you try, and even then you might not succeed. As an aside, if you do have huge amounts of green stuff, you might want to avoid charcoal or carbon in your filter. Apparently it removes chemicals that plants can use, but get a second opinion on this before doing it.

Before I answer your questions, I want you to know that getting more advanced meaning spending a lot more money and time. A lot us learn by making mistakes, and that's how I started, by making a lot of mistakes.

I don't know what level of planting you want to do. It can be as easy as adding a few amazon swords into your tank right now, or as difficult as buying new light, CO2 equipment, fertilizers, etc.

If you want to save a lot of money from mistakes then here is what you should do:

• Buy a new tank. preferably a big one like a 75G at least since you'll probably want a lot of fish and some of those fish will need a good size tank. I think 75G minimum is the perfect size for beginner as oppose to 55G because of the width. It gives you comfort zone for a lot of fish. Look for it on craiglist first, and be patient. Of course you can get bigger tank if you want
  
  
• You'll need substrates. I personally like Eco-Complete. $22.99 on Amazon. You can also have a layer of sand on top. I use pool filter sand. Something like this
  
  
• You'll need light. 7000k Light is great for plants. LEDs will save you tons of money in the long run. Personally recommend Finnex. They simply have the best LEDs out there. There is a used one on Ebay for very cheap. link I don't know how much I can trust them, I personally would buy a new one if I have the money.
  
  
• You'll need plants. If you live close by Miami, I can give you a few good places to go to. If not your LFS can provide you with these. There is also a seller on Ebay called FishRUs who has some very good plants. You can start with amazon swords, anubias, or whatever plants you want. You'll make mistakes and kill plants, but that's what we humans do. Just make sure you utilize google.
  
  
• You'll need fertilizers. Don't waste your money on Seachem. Read this page Fertilizer can be purchased here
  
  
• You'll need a CO2 system. Aquatek Mini for 87.99 + CO2 tank $26.59. Then go to a local paintball shop and refill your CO2 bottle for $3-4.
  
  
• Water change. You can use Aqueon Water Changer $27.99 you can also buy the 50FT version if you need. You won't regret this buy, trust me.
  
  
• You'll need a filter. Sunsun Canister Pro Kit $97.99 Probably the best canister out there for this price. You can go FX5 if you have the money.
  
  
• Purigen filter media ~$20
  
  
• API Test Kit $22.99
  
  
• There are a wide variety of cichlid. I don't know what you like, but I personally LOVE South America cichlids. These fish are also compatible with your gouramis. You can get a few rams, and 4 angelfish to begin. Discus are beautiful, but don't try it until you feel comfortable with the basics and do enough research. Along with those, you can also get some tetras and corys catfish.

Finally at work so I can give some links, lol

Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.

To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.

To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!

Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.

Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)

Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)

API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002568S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQITK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXRDZPO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A316L92SV4DH0Y&psc=1
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506349229&sr=1-1&keywords=tetra%2Bair%2Bpump&th=1
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=twister_B00MO35VD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)

Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm

If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc

I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/food

Here are a few they have mentioned:

Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/huc/view.html?ie=UTF8&newItems=C38WET63RPACA8%2C1

New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
https://www.amazon.com/New-Life-Spectrum-Formula-Semi-Float/dp/B0038JTL1Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506350883&sr=1-1&keywords=New+Life+Spectrum+Betta+Pellets

Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013EXTU7S/ref=twister_B00ZJZMXIS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.

Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!

I also have the Evo saltwater version, only the light and packaging are different.

Last night my low ambient temp indoors was 61.6. My Spec V is has a 25w heater in the main display chamber and the tank was 70.3 when I woke up. The Evo has 50w heater in the pump chamber and got as low as 73.6.

I have an external temperature controller for the heater in the Evo but the heater's internal thermostat always shuts it off. Point is, I think the 50w would possibly work OK if it was allowed to heat up the back chamber enough, but the internal thermostat kicks it off no matter how high I set it. Currently I'd like to get a cobalt neo-therm as a replacement.

I've read of people perforating the tubing in the pump chamber to allow more heat exchange but that will also reduce flow. For my saltwater I want more flow and upgraded the pump, so the perforations would go against my goal but I may end up doing it in the end if I have to add a wave maker.

Inefficiency is my OCD kryptonite, so I can only bring myself to use LEDs. You can get higher output levels with other technologies but your plants and corals can only use so much. People obsess over buying the brightest thing possible then spend another small fortune on a PAR meter to figure out it's way too bright and dial it down to 30%. The plants don't need a wide spectrum of light, so most of what you're after is what it looks like to you. It looks like the the fixture you linked uses standard bulbs so you have a lot of options to test with. I really like the look of the stock light and the plant growth is more than OK for me.

I'm not sure you'd need to mod the tank unless you want one light on each end? The lid is super thin so it will be easy to cut if you need to. I was pricing pieces of glass as a replacement to make it octopus-safe and depending on thickness it's around $13-35 in Seattle. I prefer to run them topless - I don't like the light diffusion of the lid, but the trade-off is evaporation and you might have critters that like to escape.

so many options! :)

Weelllll...the best setup is the biggest you can afford. The bare minimum for 2 fancies would be a 40 gallon breeder, but the more space you can give them the better. If you live in the US you can get a pretty awesome discount on aquariums up to 75 gallons (varies by store) fairly often when they do "Dollar Per Gallon" sales. Petco does the most frequent DPGs but Petsmart and Pet Supplies Plus also do them. Petsmart sometimes just has heavily discounted sets also. Anyway, $40 is the least it will cost if you buy a new tank, but maybe you can find a great deal for a secondhand tank on a resale site if you prefer that route.

Filter...maybe go with a SunSun as they're quite cheap for their quality. I use this one and while the UV sterilizer is generally unnecessary I guess it might be helpful in an ich outbreak or something. It's actually slightly below the 10xph flow rate for my 55g so I supplement it with a HOB filter that I keep spare media in in case it's ever needed. For media in the canister I have sponges of varying coarseness, generic ceramic rings (for nitrifying bacteria), and Seachem Matrix (for nitrate-consuming bacteria).

The best water tester is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It may seem expensive at first glance, but it's actually cheaper over time - AND more accurate than strips. For water changes, since I don't have a faucet that can support a Python auto-changer, I use a pump stuck to the bottom of the bucket to push water up through spare tubing. Saves me the trouble of lifting heavy buckets or trying to gradually scoop the water out.

The best foods are New Life Spectrum, Repashy, Saki-Hikari, and if you need a cheaper option Omega One. You should also supply plenty of leafy greens; the fiber is very good for their digestive tract.

Hello! It's good to see someone new to bettas doing their research ahead of time! Aquarium kits are kind of tricky: they seem nice since it's a all-in-one package, but since bettas can be rather delicate fish, the equipment that come with the kits tend to be too powerful.

I recommend checking your local pet store (if you're in the USA, PetCo and PetSmart are pretty common) and see if they have any individual fish tanks available on sale. For a filter, I recommend investing in a sponge filter + an air pump. These types of filters are very gentle, low flow, and quite effective for smaller setups like a 5-gallon. Also keep in mind that bettas live optimally in heated water. Since your setup is small, you have a couple options for heaters:

• Undergravel style
  
• Traditional tube style
  
  If you haven't purchased fish yet, read up on the nitrogen cycle and consider doing a "Fishless Cycle" to get your aquarium prepared for your betta.
  
  Good luck with everything!
  
  EDIT: Also, don't forget to pick up an aquarium thermometer! :)

Here's what you'll need:

• 5+ gallon tank with a lid. You can go for one of the nicer-looking (but more expensive ones) or just a plain ol' tank from any pet store. Lids are necessary because bettas are jumpy by nature.
  
  
• Heater. Bettas are tropical fish so you need something that can keep the water at around 78ºF. I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because A) you can do extra fine-tuning and B) you can bump the temperature up if you need to (if the room gets extra cold, or if your betta gets stick, etc). Here's what I use in my 5.5g.
  
  
• Thermometer. Nothing fancy, but you need something so you can know what the temperature is. Get an internal one instead of the ones that stick on the front of the glass (those aren't very accurate). Again, you can find them at any pet store for a couple bucks.
  
  
• Filter. Filters are a must because they house the bacteria that maintain a tank's cycle (preventing your fish from getting poisoned). I would reccomend either reading up on the nitrogen cycle yourself and teaching your friend or giving them a link to a guide, since if they've got the fish in a little container they probably know nothing about it. An air pump + sponge filter is a cheap way to do it but as long as you can get a filter that makes less of a current you're good. Bettas (especially ones with long heavy fins) don't like fast flowing water. I've got this one in my 5.5g. The fact that it's adjustable is super convenient.
  
  
• Substrate. Looks nice, add extra surface area for more bacteria to grow, A+. You can get either gravel or sand. If you want to go cheap, regular pool filter sand or black diamond blasting sand will get you a ton for a few bucks.
  
  
• Decor. Bettas appreciate densely planted/decorated tanks with lots of hiding places. Make sure anything you get isn't rough/sharp enough to snag panty hose, because that means it'll also tear betta fins. That means no coarse decorations, plastic plants, etc. Silk plants are popular, and mugs are an easy way to add a little cave.
  
  
• Gravel vac. When you're doing water changes you need a gravel vacuum to clean down in the gravel. I've found that this one is a great size for my 5.5g. Others I've tried pull out water too fast to get a good cleaning in before you've removed the water you need to. She'll probably need some container to put the water into as well. I just use a plastic 1-gallon pitcher for my 5.5.
  
  
• Test kit. Back to cycling, you need to have a test kit so you can know the pH, concentration of ammonia, concentration of nitrite, and concentration of nitrate in the tank. The API freshwater master test kit is far and away the most popular since it provides all four. Whatever you get, go for the liquid kits rather than the strips because strips aren't very accurate.
  
  
• Betta food, but she probably already has that. Although if she's got flakes it'd be a good idea to move her over to pellets, since flakes make the water a lot dirtier. Also I would reccomend you advise her on how much she should be feeding her betta. They're little piggies and will eat themselves sick if you let them, so people who don't research betta care are prone to overfeeding.
  
  
• Water conditioner. Water conditioner removes chlorine from tap water so fish can live in it. Oftentimes you'll see betta-specific water conditioner at stores, but this is just a scam that preys on folks who don't know better. It's overpriced, comes in tiny bottles, and is watered down. At 1/10 mL per gallon, a single bottle of Prime for instance is way cheaper and will last way longer. I'd reccomend you also get a 1mL syringe for easy dosing. Whenever I want one I pick one up from my school's chemistry stockroom for like 25 cents.

As someone that's gone thru the same scenario as you I'm going to give you some possible options you can take that will make things way easier on you. The initial investment may be on the higher side but it's the equivalent of a couple dinners and a movie for some high quality stuff that'll last a long time.

• You need 4 things for a happy Betta: A proper tank, a filter, a heater, and proper decorations.
  
  
• First, return that 1 gallon aquarium if possible. While Betta's don't need large tanks I'd recommend something at least 2.5+ gallons. The tank will stay cleaner longer and your fish will be more active.
  
  
• There are different quality aquariums. Look for something that's an all-in-one design (comes with filter and light) Personally I love Fluval, a company that sells all in one contained tanks that are high quality, run silent, and are well designed. For dorm life I'd recommend The Spec 3: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-2-6-Gallon-Black/dp/B009K0ZKAQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506546740&sr=8-5&keywords=fluval+spec
  If that's too much money this is also a good budget tank: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506546844&sr=1-5&keywords=aquarium+kit
  
  
• Buy a heater, any basic heater that can sustain a set temp is fine: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506547013&sr=1-2&keywords=tetra+heater
  
  
• Decorations: Bettas have long fins that tear easily on sharp plastic plants. Buy soft or rounded decorations and substrate.
  
  
• It's also highly suggested to buy any type of water conditioner to remove chlorine from tap water etc.: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-16172-AquaSafe-8-45-oz/dp/B00068JW0A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1506547213&sr=1-5&keywords=tetra+easy+balance
  
  
• Betta food is subjective, though I like Hikari's brand that comes in those clear packages with the maze looking thing to dispense food.
  
  

My betta care guide

• 2.5 gallon minimum but 5-10+ is highly recommended

• easy flow filter. I recommend aqueon (can be found in pet stores like petco)

• adjustable heater 3-5 Watts per gallon 78-82°

You don’t need to worry about doing a fishless cycle, so when you get the tank do 25% water changes every other day for 1-2 months. Then you can do 10-25% water changes every other week for maintenance.

Important info

• FEEDING: I recommend feeding frozen foods 1 -2 days out of the week and fasting for 1 day. Base the diet off a good pellet food (protip: all fish food you buy in stores is garbage. Order online this is the highest quality I could find and it’s pretty cheap too 5 pellets a day and 2 thawed frozen treats (not the whole cube just a single thing) remember, bettas can’t digest plant matter! They are 100% carnivores

• DECORATIONS: preferably no fake plants but if so do not get anything remotely sharp. Keep the plant!! Get more plants!! Dark substrate is great for making a pretty tank

• HEALTH: look for lethargy, growths, large bloated stomach, and if the fins are damaged. If these don’t check out post your problem to this sub reddit and you’ll get help for sure 👌

• NOTES: keep a lid! Bettas will jump; beginners in my opinion should wait to get rank mates anything other than snails; keeping your filter running is very important! The bacterial colony of nitrifying bacteria can’t survive without the filter running; plants. Are. Amazing;

This is just what I do and what I think works best. Ask questions if you want! I know almost everything there is about betta fish, but I am weak in diagnosing rare illnesses and breeding.

This betta seems to have some pretty nasty finrot, this is often caused by poor water quality. It seems like he's in a fairly small tank, unfortunately, this is probably not a good environment for him. Bettas are tropical fish that need large enough (preferably 5 gallons or larger) heated and filtered tanks.

So the best way to help him is to get him into a better tank asap. The larger tank can be an aquarium or a plastic bin. The heater should be adjustable, with an internal thermostat. 25W should be fine, unless this betta lives in a particularly cold place.

A sponge filter is a good option for smaller tanks, here's a good sponge filter, it'll need to be powered by a air pump (like this one). Your friend will also need some airline tubing, and something to regulate airflow (this is a 10-pack, but you get the idea).

The water should be treated with water conditioner, like this one. Most people do 25-30% waterchanges, every week.

Cycling is another very important thing. Fish produce ammonia, which is very toxic to them. Luckily, there are bacteria that can convert ammonia into nitrite, and eventually into nitrate (far less toxic). These bacteria can live in the filter, and remove the bad ammonia from the water. A new filter doesn't have enough yet, by cycling we can make sure the filter media is colonized by the bacteria we want. This guide explains the process in more detail, this page here explains how to cycle a tank with fish.

Please also sent your friend a link to our caresheet, it might help them cure this little dude.

I konw this is a ton of information, but please ask your friend to give it a shot. This little dude can definitely recover :)

I have this one. It was $30, but I think it was worth it. It makes my life so much easier (although, it is much easier to use with two people rather than one, one at the sink to turn the water on/off, one at the tank to make sure the fish don't get hurt). I wouldn't necessarily call it a cheap piece of plastic, because it seems pretty well made, and I think it will last me a long time. I don't really know of any way to make a system like this yourself, but if you find one, I'd love to hear about it! Also, for what it's worth, I've only had a tank for about six months, so I'm fairly new at this. Someone more knowledgable than I am might have better advice for you. Good luck!

First, welcome, I hope you enjoy this subreddit we have. The first thing to know is the nitrogen cycle. You MUST understand this like the back of your hand before getting a fish, otherwise the fish wont be happy, or it might die. Figure out what your tap water is, in terms of pH, and other things in the water. To test this water you will need a test kit. A really high quality and highly recommended one is this. You can also use test strips but I dont know any good ones. Secondly, the smaller aquarium you have, the harder it is to maintain stable parameters. Stable parameters means happy fish. A good small starter aquarium is a 10 gallon for $10 at petco. With a filter, light, HEATER <---(All of these are needed), it should be around $30-$40. Remember, this is a pet, take care of it. Yes, you can buy fish online, I would do some research and see if there are of good quality. Another thing to be aware of is maintenance. Maintenance includes water changes and overall health of the aquarium. Do some research to make sure you have a cycled aquarium (cycling refers to the nitrogen cycle, that needs to be monitored). Aquarium fish cannot live from just straight tap water, which means you need a water dechlorinator such as this. In summary, to keep a fish alive and healthy/happy you need: heater, proper size aquarium, filter, light,water dechlorinator, and basic knowledge of the nitrogen cycle.

1. Stocking is fine as-is, although I suggest that you have more cories (1-2 more) and more loaches (1-2 more as well) as they are very social and look really cool in shoals. Also, dojo loaches get much larger than kuhlis so I'd suggest going with kuhlis. I think most gouramis would do fine, Pearl gouramis are my favorite :D
   
2. If you have the money, get a substrate that is intended for plants such as Flourite Sand or Eco-Complete. You can even use a planted tank substrate, and cover it with normal sand. Black Diamond sand is great (pool filter sand works fine too), just put it in a 5 gallon bucket and rinse it vigorously until the water runs clear. Put the sand in first, and then add the water slowly, pouring it on a plate or your hand so it doesn't kick up the sand.
   
3. You should get special lighting for plants, 6500k CFL Bulbs attached to metal reflectors work great as a budget-friendly option, or you can go with a T5 Fluorescent fixture, or an LED fixture. As far as plants, if you have decent lighting you can have almost anything. Anubias, Crypts, Swords, Java Fern, Java Moss, and Hornwort are all great plants that can be gently pushed into the substrate, or in the case of Anubias, Java Fern/Moss, attached onto a rock or driftwood. Duckweed, Water Lettuce, and Amazon Frogbit are all great floating plants that shade the water, provide hiding places for fish, and reduce nitrates.
   
4. Boil it, then soak until it becomes waterlogged enough to sink.

Well, if you ask me, T5 and T8 lighting is quickly becoming a thing of the past. LEDs are getting cheaper and cheaper and the quality is getting better and better. I really recommend just going with LEDs. You can get a nice 30 inch fugeray planted plus for less than $100. This should be enough to take care of carpeting the 20 long. You should shop around though, and get familiar with the term photosynthetically active radiation, which is the unit of measure for the effectiveness of grow lights. There are some general guides on what PAR ratings you want for different plants, but I think around 50 is considered high-light, and 30 will take care of most plants. PAR is also measured by the distance from the lights, and is usually shown as a diagram of the aquarium. With your 20g long, being so shallow, you have a lot of inexpensive options that will easily reach the substrate. You should also compare the wavelength charts for each light, which should be available on the manufacturer's websites. With a little google-fu, I found a nice post on the light spectrum and planted aquariums. There are some too-good-to-be-true LED lights on the market that boast their 10k lights, but don't want to show you the spectral analysis, which exposes how crappy the lights actually are.

CO2 definitely as a learning curve. For optimal growth, you want to hit 30 ppm CO2 during the "day", which is indicated by an approximate 1 Ph swing with the shake method (test the water without shaking the CO2 out, then test again after shaking the crap out of the vial). This website explains it all and has a nifty CO2 calculator. If you do a DIY CO2 setup, using yeast in a bottle, you won't have to ever worry about adding too much. This is a great way to get started with CO2, and get your feet wet before buying the equipment. The downside is you have almost no control over the CO2 production, and it gets to become a hassle to deal with the mess and weekly maintenance. Still, do this to start! Eventually you will want a nice big 5 pound (or bigger) canister, and a fancy regulator. Don't bother with those paintball gun things. They cost nearly as much to get set up, and require a lot more maintenance. My 7.5 pound tank lasts me around 4 months before I need to refill it, and that's on a 90g planted tank running around 10 bubbles a second. Most people who get the little paintball setups just end up wanting to upgrade later, and you will have wasted a ton of money.

Balancing CO2 levels with your photoperiod is also important. Be sure to get a regulator with a needle valve for fine adjustments, and a solenoid that will turn on/off the gas for you. I keep my lights and my solenoid plugged into two different lamp timers so the CO2 kicks on an hour before the lights come on and turns off an hour before the lights go out. You can play with the timing yourself by setting up an experimental cycle, and doing periodic Ph tests throughout the day to monitor CO2 levels and Ph swings. Adjusting your CO2 flow is a pain in the but, even with a nice needle valve. It takes most people a full day of tinkering just to get it set right. Basically you turn on the regulator, turn the dials all over the place until you get the pressure where you want (by looking at your bubble counter). Then wait an hour for the airline tube to absorb the pressure, and recalibrate. For a moderately planted 20g, you will probably want to start at around 3 bps. Get it calibrated, let it run, and then check the CO2 levels throughout the photoperiod to see how close to 30 ppm CO2 you get.

Good luck! And hopefully at least some of this information was useful for you!

Even at less than an inch, it can create a downflow too strong for a fish like a Betta with such large fins (as you've clearly witnessed). Think about a sail boat... even a soft wind will billow the sails. That's exactly what their fins are.

While the filter intake wouldn't be a problem for other fish with smaller fins, that might create an issue with a Betta. I'm sure he'll be fine for today while you go to work, though. For later, you can simply increase the size of the sponge on the intake to slow down the flow. I bought a bunch of these a while ago for various purposes (great for scrubbing glass on small aquariums!), and they're dense enough to slow water flow pretty significantly.

Also, I have to say - kudos to you for being so concerned and attentive to a fish you received as a gift. Most people (sadly) would throw him in a vase on a window sill and forget about him until he started smelling. I really admire your desire to learn as much as you can so you can take good care of him.

As long as the FIRST ingredient on the ingredients list is the actual item you're ok. Look at your Fluval Bug Bites. I use the Tropical Formula for Small Fish (the light blue container), the first ingredient is the actual protein itself, in this case Black Soldier Fly Larvae (ewww). But, if you look at the back of something like TetraMin (sorry Tetra) and the first ingredient is Fish Meal. So, fish meal may have fish but it will also have ground up small ocean fish, left over bits of fish, so it includes bone, waste, etc. and you don't know what kind of fish. In case you wondered why it's not as high quality.

So, for your Betta, as long as you're using the Bug Bites for Betta, that's fine with bloodworms as a treat, no more than a couple of times a week since they aren't very nutritious and if that were all a betta ate, might cause constipation and other problems. Frozen or freeze-dried brine shrimp same thing re the treat a couple times a week. Same for the Dial a treat. The treats are "or" not each of them 2 times a week. I would trade the Hikari Betta Biogold as it's fish meal first ingredient and look for something like New Life Spectrum (not sure why this one is unavailable, but look around) if your LFS sells it or on Amazon for Bettas.

For your Tetras, Sera is a great brand and I feed that to my fish. As long as you have enough in the tank to eat the tabs they're great. I feed the Fluval Bug Bites I mentioned above. They can get the same treats the Betta gets.

Sorry, don't know about the frogs. I have fed the Hikari sinking pellets for bottom feeders like loaches and Cories and Otos (the green and the orange packets) but I only noticed after that the first ingredient is a meal. So, I occasionally feed it because the packages aren't empty yet, but I won't replace them. I use the Bug Bites for Bottom Feeders for my Cories and Otos.

The other Brand I use is Omega One depending on the size of the fish, sometimes the shrimp micro pellets for color and the veggie ones but I think they're too big for tetras who can get bloated from too many of them. I sometimes use Seachem Chlorella or Shrimp Flakes just for something different.

Hope that helps.

Yeah that's the planted + 24/7. Just a heads up I hate them so I'm not going to give a favorable review but some people love it. It does all settings from day to night, turn on and leave it, you're done. I think it's a gimmick. I had one, it died within 4 months due to that feature, got stuck on reds and never was happy to work again. They do have a warranty but I was just done at that point

If you're down for having a shading on one side, do it, I wouldn't say it's inadvisable but I like very high lights and very few shadows in my tanks. You could always upgrade to it one day in the future if you wished.

I run these on 3 of my tanks. They're a good light, I adore them. Another light you could upgrade to.

This light I run on the other 5. It's much cheaper and it's very much a low light on higher tanks. I get better growth out of stuff with the planted+ but with what you want this could work. It's cheap enough you can always try it out and if it's not bright enough for you, you can upgrade.

I have no idea the lifespan honestly. Let me check when I bought my first one. Apparently I got it last year on my birthday lol. A year in it's still going great, everything grows way too fast. I believe it's about five+ years. Honestly it's still as bright as the day I got it a year ago.

Just quickly thinking off the top of my head, the order shouldn't really matter. If you want Eco-Complete though I know it does go on sale on Amazon and Petsmart/Petco from time to time. The only thing is it has live bacteria in it so you want to put it somewhere that's not too hot/cold etc... It actually has quite a bit of water in it to help keep the bacteria alive and it smells like a swamp when you open the bags lol. But here's the link for the EI ferts: http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/micro-macro-fertilizers.html You dose your micro nutrients on Tuesday,Thursday (Plantex CSM + B) and dose your macro nutrients (Potassium Nitrate (KNO3), Mono Potassium Phosphate (KH2PO4), and Potassium Sulfate (K2SO4)) on Monday, Wednesday, Friday. Then every Monday you do a 50% water change. You have to calculate how much to put in your tank depending on its size but I can help you with that. Just pm me when the time comes. Also for the CO2 system, I would recommend this regulator: http://www.amazon.com/Premium-AQUATEK-Regulator-Integrated-Solenoid/dp/B009WTXYN0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397875165&sr=8-1&keywords=aquatek+co2+regulator, this adapter, so if/when you decide to upgrade to a larger tank you won't have to buy another regulator and instead can just buy a 5lb or 10lb tank (http://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-CO2-Paintball-Tank-Adapter/dp/B004M49QDC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397875261&sr=8-1&keywords=aquatek+adapter). That regulator comes with a bubble counter with a built in check valve. The bubble counter is decent enough so you don't have to buy that. Then you're also going to need CO2 proof tubing and teflon tape to use between the threads of the adapter and regulator. You're also going to need an atomizer which you can get cheaply off of Ebay. Lastly you're going to need a drop checker with 4dkh solution which you can also get pretty cheap from Ebay. I know all this information is really overwhelming but if you just take it one piece at a time, it's not too bad. Hopefully I haven't forgotten anything. But feel free to pm me anytime if you ever have any questions in the future. I'd be more than happy to help.

If it is in the budget just get these and never look back aside from the occasional treat (New Life Spectrum): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038JTL1Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it was a pleco and wasn't one of the EXTREMELY dwarfed varieties, I bet he was stressing the bejeezus out of your betta. Plecos are extremely fast and violent with their movements. They are not meant for small tanks of any sort, period. That is not your fault, my first bottom feeder was a pleco, he has since been adopted out to a good home after he grew 2.5X his original size within 2 months.

If you want bottom feeders / cleaners I would highly recommend Corydoras Julii (Very common dwarf catfish) or Otocinclus (SUPER cute little catfish). Or shrimp!!! All three will get a long just swimmingly (hardy har) with the Betta and are all super cute.

You should never do anything with the intent or regular repetition of removing ANY fish from your tank if you can avoid it. Your goal here is to create the most stable ecosystem possible in the given conditions. The more you remove and replace fish the more they notice and get freaked out by it. If you are going to treat with a salt bath, then remove your Betta, otherwise stick with whatever your gameplan is.

10 gallons is more than sufficient for your bio load it sounds like. That is even plenty of room for the Betta to get away from the school of tetras if it wants. With a 10 gallon tank there is little to no chance that your filter is too small. One concern may be that it is creating too much of a current. Bettas generally do not like current as they are naturally found in rice fields. You need no more than a feint "waterfall-like" trickle coming out of your filter to sufficiently take care of a 10 gallon tank.

As far as the salt baths go, just take your time and decide which method is easiest for you to administer. And remember, don't freak out. You are already giving your fish 10000000% better life than what it was going to have without you. And you clearly care, and in my opinion that is 99% of the battle with being a fish owner, the rest is just patience and not over-correcting :).

Wisteria loves to float. I've let it go like that for weeks and it's happy to just chill and make roots until I decide it's time to plant it.

I would recommend a top like this. I believe 36' is the standard for 20L. Pair it up with a light like this and you're good to go. Big investment but I absolutely love mine. If you're buying a new hood with light included, make sure the light is actually better than what you currently have. I feel like the vast majority of them are pretty dim, though the bulb can be swapped of course.

Hey Phantomsgf! I also have a fluval tank and man those filters are strong! I hunted around for ages and I found a really easy, really cheap solution: buy a pre-filter sponge and pop it onto the filter output. Make sure, of course, that the filter motor is at the lowest setting, but even that is too strong for a betta. You really need the sponge.

If you're having trouble with the filter intake, which are the vertical cuts in the plastic, I guess you could put some mesh over it to, again, slow down the flow. I don't have my betta yet so I'm not sure if this will be a problem.

You might also want to get a thermometer and verify your water's temperature. If it's always about 100 degrees inside your house, even at night, then yes, I'd believe that the water is warm enough for your little guy. But it has to be really really really hot to keep a fish tank at 80 degrees.

As for cycling, you're basically going to have to do a lot of water changes really often. My instinct, which is amateur, says to do 50% a day every day. I also learned from experience that you should let water sit for a while to warm up before putting it in the tank or the temperature drops like crazy.

You can check out products like this that claim to add the bacteria to your tank that eat fish waste. Do they work or is it a myth? I don't know. But for tiny tiny tanks like the fluval you have, you will definitely need a water dropper that can measure a tenth of a millimeter to put this stuff in your tank.

Anyway. Those are my tips. And when you do get a heater, you can fit it where the filter output plastic tube is! So cool!

Oh: look at this leaf. So cute.

Heres a good list of plants that you can read up on

Heres another good easy plants list

another list go easy plants/details

Easiest plants - Java moss, Anubias plants, Java Fern

For substrate i'd recommend going for ... 2 routes to use

1. Sand substrate and add flourish tabs
   
   
2. Going substrate that has ferts already - Eco complete add this at the bottom and top it off with some black sand like this
   
   After you do all that and pick up w.e plants you like. You need to buy liquid fertilizers to dose/make your plants healthier.
   
   You can also go the CO2 route but if this is expensive, go for the cheap route and buy Seachem Excel (liquid co2)
   
   

   Lighting:
   

   
   This is the best kind of lighting you can grab
   
   Or this one
   
   I can vouch for the Planted+ I have that and it grows my plants really well/amazing, down side you'll have algae (but thats what algae cleaners are for ;)) Also I use sand + flourish tabs for rooted plants.
   
   

   Tip:
   

   
   Root plants need flourish tabs (if you just go the sandroute) but if you grab the eco complete you wont really need tabs since thats already fertilizers.
   
   Plants that dont need to be buried in the substrate (anubias plants/java fern) youll need liquid ferts
   
   If you do go for anubias/java fern/java moss - buy driftwood and tie them down with some fishing line (they do best when tied to driftwood)

I would really really reallyyyy love this because I have a big fish tank and it is very hard to do water changes and I've heard this is a life saver for that!

A little about me... I'm a 21 year old girl, about to be a senior in college. I'm majoring in biology and hope to go to veterinary school after undergrad. I love everybody here and I love life in general. I'm just about to move into my first apartment which I'm very excited about! I'm pretty outdoorsy and love hiking, climbing, camping, etc.

What about you?? Tell me about yourself!

Yes, it’s actually pretty awesome breeding box, I can’t recommend it enough. Easy to clean, super easy to set up. Just hang an airline to the pump and good to go.

Got it from Amazon for $12.

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2

If it gets really cold in your room, you may want to hang it close to your heather though.

We ran our 5.5 gal beautifully with one of these but you need an air pump to run it

Aquaneat Air Driven Bio Corner Filter Sponge Fry Shrimp Nano Fish Tank Aquarium 20 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WP442W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZHnhDbKSFVG4D

This is a GREAT option though and id do this if i did it over again. But one thing is i would remove the filter things inside and replace with a piece of filter foam or just poly floss and some ceramic rings or similar media inside. Floss or foam against the intake grates and the rings behind it. I love these cause theyre super strong little guys and are completely silent

Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mKnhDbT1RMMTG

It sounds like your talking about the budget glass vacuum distillation units found on ebay/amazon. If so, these may work for your needs but more info is needed. If you intend to distill/recover the ethanol and make a concentrate like shatter or wax then a budget glass distillation kit like this may be what your looking for. It would also need a heating mantle of the appropriate size($60-120), a small water pump like this, some krytox ptfe glass joint grease(gpl 205 works well), and a vacuum pump. Something like this for $50 would work but would require an oil change nearly every other run due to ethanol contamination, a ethanol compatible diaphram pump would be preferable but much more costly. A used savant gp-110 is what i use and can be found on ebay for about $150(do not re-use ethanol that passes through a used pump). For long runs I add a small desktop fan in front of it to keep it cool.

Vacuum distillation is necessary for Shatter/Wax consistancy because without the vacuum, open air distillation will decarb the THC-A to THC and leave you with a sappy product. If you intend to make THC distillate, a shortpath setup will allow you to just distill the ethanol fraction and make distillate from your remaining product. It will also require pretty much the same accessories as the vacuum reflux distllation kit I listed. The only big difference from a short path vs reflux kit (which I prefer for ethanol recovery) is the added reflux portion which will help you maintain your ethanol's proof a bit better. Also the vacuum pump for a distillate shortpath setup needs to pull a lower vacuum rating than either of the pumps I mentioned, and will typically be one of the priciest components in this setup.

It's really really hard to heat a tank that small without cooking your fish, and a half gallon is honestly too small for a betta. The absolute minimum is 1 gallon, at least 2.5 is recommended.

Something like this is really as small as youre going to find, and depending on ambient room temp, may still overheat the tank.

If you wanna try it, definitely get a little thermometer too so you can make sure its not getting too hot. You want to keep it somewhere between 76F and 82F ideally.

A better option would be to upgrade your tank(s) to something a little bigger. You could even get one larger tank (a 5 or 10 gallon?) and put in a divider, so you only need to have one heater and filter to keep both your fish happy. A larger tank is not only better for your betta, but will be less maintenance on your part. The more water you have, the less often you'll need to change it out, and the easier it is to get it properly cycled.

If you just absolutely can't upgrade the tanks, you might try one of those small stick on under tank heaters for small reptiles and hermit crabs and just set the tank on top of it, or stick it on the side... these things It's not going to be great, but it'll be better than nothing.

Hello there. Always fun setting up a new tank. My tips are:

3g is quite a small tank! Though as a simpler solution to your tank+light+filter problems perhaps a fluval spec 3 this is only 2.6g but an all-in-one design. If you can swing it, I recommend the 5 gallon option!


All you will need to do is slightly modify the filter intake to make it baby shrimp safe. This is done by placing some black filter sponge at the filter input.


Substrate wise: depends on the shrimp you want to keep. Simply put: basic gravel works with neos, buffered substrate (e.g. Amazonia, black earth, shrimpsand) for Caradinas


At your room temps I do not think a heater is necessary. And on this tank temperature topic, bigger tanks are better for stability.

Good luck

If you want to reduce the flow I recommend buying this pump:
https://www.amazon.ca/VicTsing-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B00EWENKXO

With this pump you can reduce the flow to whatever you want, and it works pretty well too, doesnt take up any space and is actually smaller than the one you get with the aquarium. The tube fits perfectly and connects perfectly to the pump the only issue is that it hangs slightly because the tubing isnt long enough.


Using sponges to reduce the flow can create more bacteria surfaces which is good but... It takes up a bunch of space and is a pain to deal with if it ever floats off. You also cant adjust the flow perfectly like you can with the pump.

There are people who recommend poking holes in the hose, in my opinion this is the worst thing you can do. It messes with the circulation and ruins the hose, you'll end up having to pay for a new hose if you ever get new fish that like the flow. So in my opinion getting a cheap pump like this is way better than using sponges or poking holes.

The Fluval Spec lll makes a great shrimp tank. I comes with everything you need(built in filter) except a heater, and you won't need a heater if your office temp is consistently 68-73f+. You will need to fill the very top of the filter compartment with floss to keep baby shrimp from getting sucked into the filter intake but floss is super cheap and the mod takes about 30sec.:) It's also a very nice looking tank and is super quiet. I have a number of Fluval tanks and am very happy with the quality.

Sounds like he has a bit of swim bladder disease, which is typically caused by constipation.

You say that you give him flake food; this is not recommended, because it actually increases the chances of them becoming constipated. New Life Spectrum Betta Pellets or Hikari Bio-Gold Betta Pellets are much healthier. We feed our boys the New Life Spectrum pellets, and they go absolutely nuts for it. Our girl gets the Hikari pellets (they're smaller, and easier for her to eat) and she is equally ravenous over it.


Most likely, you've been unintentionally overfeeding him because of the flakes. It's okay to give him worms occasionally for variety, but don't overdo it. With NLS and Hikari pellets, it's easier to prevent overfeeding. For our bettas, they get 2 pellets per day, and then a day of no food, to fast them and give their digestive systems a break.

Since your boy sounds like he has a case of SBD, I recommend you continue to fast him. That is the best course of treatment. Make sure his water is clean. If you can find it in your local fish store, get some frozen Daphnia - this works as a mild laxative. Do the same thing as you would with a blanched pea; fast him for 4-5 days, then offer some of the Daphnia, and fast him again.


Curing SBD is in no way a quick process. We're currently treating a new rescue for a harsher case of it, and he's just beginning to show signs of improvement after nearly 3 weeks of fasting & blanched peas. Just have patience and stick with the treatment.

For the 5.5 I am setting up now, I'm using an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon and have high hopes. I removed their plastic comb thing they call a bio filter and filled that compartment with some bio rings because I think they'll do a better job. I don't like that I have to pop off the suction cups to clean the filter and wish it had some sort of bracket that it slid into, but that's a minor annoyance as I'll probably be messing with it a lot less once I'm satisfied with the scape. These are very much initial impressions as I've been running it for only a couple months, but so far so good.

Also, I paid $10 not the $15 it is currently listed for. The 15 gallon model is currently $10, so maybe that's a better buy if it will fit.

Ninja Edit: I added in some filter material between the filter cartridge of this and the intake vents to hopefully keep theoretical future shrimplets from being sucked in. I know that this isn't ideal as now the filter doesn't collect detritus, but hopefully it'll be OK. Also the flow is adjustable with a (very stiff and well hidden) adjustment slider thing just under the output of the filter.

1. Flow is always tricky. You want good movement through everything, but you want the sand to stay down. 300gph in powerheads might be enough, but that will depend on your rock layout and what animals you want to have. Some need more flow than others.
   
   
2. "Basic" hang-on-back (hob) filters are good for adding a bit of extra water volume and flow. But for actually filtering the water, live rock is your main filter. I have an aquaclear 20 on a 2.5g tank right now, its filter chamber is empty at the moment (to increase flow), but I might fill it with live rock rubble one of these days. External canister filters I haven't tried, but hear very mixed opinions on how well they work for saltwater. I would stick with live rock as your main filter.
   
   2a) Refugium filtration! My 2.5g has one of these on it, acting as a refugium and gravity filter. In it is about 3/4" of sand from an established tank, with a small layer of sea shells tossed in to give more hiding places for copepods/amphipods/mysis. It also has a huge spaghetti worm in it that does a great job at cleaning. Basically the refugium is a low-flow environment that lets waste drop out through gravity, with places for small invertebrates to live and eat that waste. You can buy dedicated hob refugiums that will likely fit a 20g tank no problem.
   
   
3. You're going to want salt to spare in general, so you're not surprised in an emergency. Buy a pail if you can afford it, but if you can't, enough for 2 setups and a couple water changes should be good for now.
   
   
4. T5 and T8 are incompatible from what I understand -- I have little experience with bulbs. I always recommend LED. Bulbs need replacing often, and worse, they break!
   
   
5. If you go LED, the 10W per gallon doesn't apply. Lighting is tricky. I would recommend LEDs.
   
   
6. This one is totally up to you, there's advantages and disadvantages for both.
   
   Hope that helped some! Best of luck!

These are CDN$ prices for what I spent on my tank that, granted, is smaller than this and does not have carpeting plants. I’ve spent maybe $40 more on it since just replenishing food, ferts, and buying more livestock. Tank is a little over a year old.

$70 - 10 gal aquarium kit includes led lights, filter, filter media for ~6 months, water conditioner for ~1yr, fish flakes for ~3 months

$40 - caribsea eco complete planted substrate (this is your gravel, for any newbies out there)

$5 - thrifted giant hunk of driftwood

$8 - Java Moss
$5 - Hygrophilia Polysperma (I think, can’t remember the name of what I’ve got)
$10 - a couple other plants I grabbed off a local aquarium buy and sell

$20 - 6 red cherry shrimp to start my initial colony
$3 - nerite snail (keeps the glass clean)

$12 - flourish excel (liquid carbon. Keeps the algae in check)

Totals in at $173 for initial startup cost. Let’s round to $200 because I probably forgot something.

My plants grow like weeds, so even though it started out kinda patchy, it filled out in 4-6 months. I don’t have carpeting plants like this guy but I’d like to experiment. Hoping to snag this co2 kit in the future which runs $40 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0049RL3H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uAKUAb2430135

I’m pretty happy with it the way it is and I have minimal maintenance right now so I might just leave it. It’s a nice little piece of art/houseplant/water feature/entertainment

So... I tend to be a bit of an outlier here, but I keep my bettas in Fluval Spec 3 gal aquariums. Many people will tell you they require 5 or 10, but honestly in my experience a nicely planted, filtered 3 gal is more than enough. The only betta I keep in a larger tank is my 3.5 inch king betta, who lives in a 9 gal Fluval Flex.

Fluval Spec 3 is the perfect betta tank imo. Great built in filtration and what i consider a good size home for betta. It's a bit pricey but totally worth it, I have never had a betta with a problem in this tank.

Fluval Spec III Aquarium Kit, 2.6-Gallon, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K0ZKAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ALn4CbB0N4FJ3

I'm not that sure where to find guides. There are a lot of premade kits available, check amazon or home depot or similar stores. You can purchase the individual parts or just purchase a kit.

Here is a typical water pump, this one is the smallest and cheapest I can find on Amazon, or close to, as it takes very little flow to supply the drippers. Don't let them run dry though, reservoir should always have water in it.

I currently use this bad boy to split from 1/2 inch hose from a water pump to the thinner spaghetti hose, I think it's 1/4 inch, that leads to the drippers. The trick to using this manifold is finding a fitting to go from 1/2 inch hose from the pump to the required thread for the manifold, which is garden hose size. I use a totally standard 1/2 inch threaded fitting that is stocked at all my local hardware stores. You can adjust flow on the manifold but I prefer not to, just leave it and let the drippers modulate flow.

Instead of a manifold, you could also find some way to go right to spaghetti tubing from the pump, and just run one master line to all the plants, and use a tee for each dripper.

You could also run the 1/2 inch supply line as your master line and puncture a hole in it with this or this and just use a little fitting like this to run the spaghetti hose to each dripper/plant, but I feel like these connections are prone to leaking. It is a very popular way of setting up drip systems though. With less than very many plants I would go with a manifold or spaghetti hose with tees.

I like this style of dripper because it sends a consistent amount of water to the plants and I adjust volume by setting an electronic timer (24 hr/7 day timer) to run the right amount of minutes per day, the amount of times I want. Math is nice.


So basically parts list can fluctuate pretty heavily depending on how you want to do it.

This is my first jarrarium, so I followed what best practices I could find through Reddit as well as the recommended Walstad PDF. Since this is my first time, I figured it was best to not analyze every single detail and just get a jar going. Best to learn from experience!

The night before I soaked the potting mix in water and attempted to clear as many of the twigs and sticks as possible. It was a bit difficult since I didn't have a hose, but it still worked. I let that mixture sit overnight. To start the jarrarium, I placed roughly 1 1/2 inches of soil lightly patted at the bottom of the jar with 2 root tabs to hopefully give the plants a good start to the tank. I'm unsure whether or not the root tabs were absolutely necessary, so I'd like to hear any thoughts on this and if others have done it or not. Hopefully this soil was close enough to the recommended Walstad soil;however, I was unable to find any locally. Once the dirt was placed, I set the zebra rock in the tank and then began the planting process.


In regards to the plants, I wasn't complete sure what selection of plants I wanted so I went with a mix of background, mid-ground, and foreground plants. I knew I really wanted to go with Dwarf Hair grass, so the others were just plants I had seen before. I started the planting process by placing the Vals in the back of the jar, Anubias on the right, Dwarf lily on the middle-left, and Dwarf Hair grass on the front-left of the jar. Placement seems off right now and the jar seems a bit bare. I'll let the tank cycle before considering whether a rearrangement is in order or if other plants need to be added. I'm definitely interested in adding a floating plant, but I'll need to do research before moving forward. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Once the plants were in the dirt, I poured roughly 1 inch of gravel in the back, and 1 inch of sand in the front. Water was treated with SafeStart and Aquasafe before pouring it into the jar. The pictures in this post were taken roughly an hour after I poured the water, which allowed the sediment to settle. There is still dirt floating on top of the water so I'll have to do a few small (10%?) water changes in the next coming days.




Plants:



All plants were ordered through Planted Aquariums Central

Nymphaea stellata (Dwarf Lily Plant)

Eleocharis parvula (Dwarf Hair Grass)

Vallisneris spiralis

Anubias coffeefolia


Rock:


Zebra Rock from Petco


Hardware:


2 gallon Anchor Hocking Jar

https://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Hocking-2-Gallon-Heritage-Hill/dp/B000KKI7GY

Natures care organic potting mix

https://www.amazon.com/Miracle-Gro-71678127-currently-Northeastern-Midwestern/dp/B00FVBQET4

Lamp

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Generic-LA24118V-Get-it-Together-Adjustable-Task-Lamp-Rich-Black/16533259

Bulb (9W 5000K 800 Lumens LED Bulb)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Equivalent-Daylight-Definition-Dimmable/dp/B01MAXUKMF

Petco Aquarium Sand and Gravel

Seachem Flourish Root Tabs

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG

I've had good luck so far with the Finnex Fugeray Planted+ I am still pretty new to planted tanks as well, but this light has kept a ton of plants alive in my 55 Gallon, which has been going strong since mid January. Good Luck!

Yayyyyy that's my tank! You'll love it. Here's the heater I use in it. It's great. Looks nice, easy to read and adjust, works like a charm, just stick it in the back corner and go.

Are you getting him snails or shrimp? Hopefully he doesn't live up to his name...

Haha thank you! He loves watching everything move around in there but doesn't really understand it yet.

I bought this aquarium a few weeks ago while it was around $50- keep an eye on the prices, they fluctuate like crazy. You by no means have to spend that much on a tank, I just preferred glass because it won't scratch like the poly ones, plus I like the kind of "minimal" look to it (all electronic components like the filter and heater are very discretely hidden), and it came with the filter and light. Besides the aquarium, which is by far the most expensive part, you can decide if you want it to be planted or just go with fake plants, then choose your substrate and decor accordingly. Non-active gravel is $1.00 at PetCo, or active substrate is around $15. A water dechlorinator is about $5, and a water test kit is around $10 depend on which one you choose. After that, there's pretty much just the cost of the inhabitants. I bought all of the plants, wood and animals (everything except the tank and the substrate) in my tank from AquaticArts.com for about $60 total- that includes two pieces of cholla wood for climbing, four Marimos, three rooted plants, a floating plant, six shrimp and four snails!

Phew. Startup can be pricey (or not, depending on what you choose) but after that, costs are minimal. If you ever wanted to start a second tank, especially with the shrimp and snails, you'd already have animals because the shrimp and snails will almost certainly breed.

I know that's a ton of info, let me know if you have any questions. :) It's so rewarding and worth it, IMO!

You don't want to keep male and female bettas together, they'll fight and he'll kill them I suggest starting with a 5-10 gallon tank for scales and getting it set up nice a proper for him, then if you want you can set up a 20 gallon sorority after scales is all settled in, petco is having a dolor a gallon sale right now it only for like the next week though so you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10, I recommend the 10 gallon because bigger is better and depending on the betta you may be able to keep a school of Cory cats in the tank. For the filter I suggest getting the aquaclear 20, but if you don't have the money there's really nothing wrong with a tetra filter I have a 20 gallon tetra whisper on my 10 gallon and it's a little noisy and not quite as good as my aquaclear but it works fine for a betta, I suggest putting a pre-filter on it though just to be safe all my filter have pre-filters. And for the heater this is the heater brand I use it's not the best but I've personally not had an issue with them, you may have to upgrade eventually but it's a good starting point, good luck and feel free to message me with questions I'm not the most experienced but I can point you in the right direction
(I wrote this on my phone so I apologize for grammar and spelling in advance)

Hi /u/smishgibson,

Leo's already regrowing! I shit you not, the ashy grey scurf has gone and something transparent (which I believe is a regrowing fin) has appeared, look!

1

2

3

And that's just after the first 3/4 water change!

Maybe I'm way too optimistic, but his today mood definitely lifted me up. I disabled a pump as usual when I feed him and he rapidly swam to the feeding hole. He didn't even refuse a single pellete! Also, I bought him the Cocos Cava. Thought about it like an anti-stress, and I bet he fell in love with it!

Back yesterday I also got the tests, a conditioner, a thermometer and a siphon. For a conditioner, I settled on the API Tap Water Conditioner, very similar to the products that we discussed, many say it does its job well. A freshly set thermometer shows 27 °C (80 °F) (it's been 30 °C (86 °F) outside in the afternoon).

First thing I did yesterday is a test of water in the tank. Needless to say, it smelt like a swamp. And these tests more or less have proven that something wasn't right (though I'm not sure their precision could be anywhere close to Swiss watch level, but AFAIK it doesn't matter since my target is the lowest nitrate/nitrite/ammonia values possible), pictured the results:

Nitrates

Nitrites

Ammonia

Instructions are very unclear and they didn't provide units, so I guessed these values stand for ppm.

Having the unsatisfactory test results, today morning I siphoned 75% of the water and some gravel (partly, to prevent bacteria genocide), then refilled the tank with conditioned water. Now I plan to test current water state and determine if the 2nd 75% change is a must.

What do you think?

This is a really handsome tank right at what I'd consider the absolute minimum for a betta fish, that seems like it'd be great in an office environment. If you've more room, here's the 5-gallon version.

I'm a sucker for bettas. My last one had a ten gallon tank with live plants because I spoil my charges, but yeah.

I'm pretty sure that although scientists and teachers often keep axolotls in pretty small set ups, that they actually deserve tanks larger than what would be reasonable in an office environment, though they're my next dream pet personally.

Check out /r/aquariums!

not soon soon. there is a high chance they might but they might not, if you can see if you can take them back or give them to a friend that has a cycled tank if possible till your tank cycles, if you can't and you want to give them the best chance of survival, you will have to test ammonia the water daily and if the ammonia is above 0.25ppm do a 50% water change. then just test nitrite every 2-4 days. your goal is to:

1. keep ammonia nitrite at 0ppm or close to it
   
2. nitrate under 30ppm
   
3. do all of that while keeping your new little friends alive.
   all of that will take awhile to do and don't be to shocked if a couple die.
   it will also help if I know what filter you have. you might also want to pick up a heater

Put an ad in your local classifieds saying you're looking for aquarium plant trimmings. A lot of people throw their's out and would be more than happy to give a few away.

You can also get a timer for your lights for like $4 at walmart and I think around the same at home depot/lowes. Makes life a lot easier.

The picture you have is of the light housing, I'm curious as to which bulb you have in it. Some say you want at least 1-1.5 watts per gallon, but for what you're doing I'd say just find a plant-growing bulb that will fit your housing. Or if you want to do it right, I definitely recommend finnex planted+ lights though a lot of beginners don't want to drop ~$100 on a light.

One more thing that will be a lot easier to do now compared to later: put a 1 to 1.5 inch layer of miraclegro organic potting mix below your gravel. Your plants will grow like crazy after that and the right light.

I have smaller aquaclears that I love, they have the advantage of being easy to clean (no cracking open a pressurized canister) so I find I do it more. I have this sunsun that I run on my winter goldfish tank that I like and you could probably get away with just one on a lower bioload community tank. Again the disadvantage of any canister is taking it apart to clean but honestly it's not that hard, especially if you aren't running it on a super high bioload fish like me so it needs to be cleaned once a week.

Very simple really. You just poke the tab deep into the substrate every couple of months. I'm really not trying to pump you Seachem products but their fert. tabs are pretty good and I use them in my own tank. This is for any plant that you have actually planted. For floaters you'll need to sub with a few drops of liquid ferts.
http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453098468&sr=8-1&keywords=freshwater+plant+fertilizer

There are, naturally, many more products to use for ferts. Some much better and more expensive, but I have found that these work well and are on sale quite often. A bag or two will last me a year. :)

Yes, I just stick the vacuum down about a half inch or so and then lift it back out if I notice an accumulation of detritus anywhere. Very rarely does much sand get taken up by it. I use this guy and it's made water changes and fills a real breeze on a larger tank.

As for the grungry sand, I suppose everyone has there own ways they prefer for keeping things clean. What works well for me is the high water flow from my filter which helps a lot with keeping the detritus stay suspended in the water column to get filtered out. The CAE does the rest at stirring it all up. He has definitely helped a lot with tank cleanliness, though no one else here seems to like them. Overall, it works pretty well in my tank. Good luck and can't wait to see how it turns out!

3/12/15 Update!

http://imgur.com/a82EFp5

I got a brand new filter, the aqueon quietflow internal filter

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1426184823&sr=1&keywords=aqueon+quietflow+10

Put it in my tank, did a 50% water change, and waited about half an hour and my tank is absolutely crystal clear! I'm so happy I decided to take your advice and get a filter. I'm sure there will be tough days ahead, but for now I'm celebrating a small victory.

The shrimp are being mischievous as usual, and my betta is currently exploring his new/old tank. (I moved some stuff around).

My only real complaint right now is the plants don't really hide the stuff as much as I had hoped, but I can always move the stuff around later on.

Oh, I also added a tiny bit (Half a cap) of Bacteria.

Anything else I should do in the meantime?

Thanks for any and all help!

Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)

Some other good purchases:

Seachem Purigen

Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery

Yeast - for DIY CO2

Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink

Pre-filter Sponge Pack

I got a 3.5 gallon tank for my daughter's Betta. I have been dealing with fin rot, but it looks like he's getting better. I am trying to find a better filter than the one I have now. I'm using the one that came with the top fin aquascene tank. I don't think he like it because it disturbs the water too much. I was looking into the quietflow at10. I think this will work great for my tank. The one question I had about it is the filter.
First off they are expensive and it has carbon filled in it. I have seen people say you can fill it with your own media to create your own filter. I have seen sponges and ceramic rings? I just wondering what I should look for and how to go about it. I accidentally killed my cycle anyways so don't worry about that. That happened before I even knew what a cycle was. I want to start fresh and have something I know my fish will like and will help create and sustain my cycle.

I'm not sure what I'm getting right now, but I've been thinking of snails and dwarf frogs. I'd like to have a lively tank :)

This is the heater I have for him right now :) I'm going to see how well it works in the new tank before buying a new one.

Very cool. I have also been researching co2 setups. Is this the one you used on amazon? I also noticed that aquatek makes a mini regulator. Am I correct in assuming that the only difference in them is that the mini regulator uses a 24 oz paintball co2 tank and the standard size uses the 5 lb tank?

Also, absolutely gorgeous tank you have! I really like the open top style. May I ask also what kind of lights you are using? I really like how they look. Thank you!

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

Okay this is easy then.

Don't use tap water for anything at all.

1. First we need to get your TDS down to where it should be.
   We are going to do what is called a water restart. You are going to empty the water (save 5 gallons of water in a bucket and put the little guy you have left in the bucket).
   
   You will have to purchase this product (http://www.hanaquatics.com/salty-shrimp-shrimp-mineral-gh-kh/)
   If you get 200g it will last you a lifetime.
   
   Once all the water is drained you will fill the RO/DI water into buckets and add the salty shrimp to RO/DI water until the TDS is between 200-250. Add this water to your tank. Now your tank should be between 200-250 TDS.
   
   Wait 24 hours with the filter running etc.
   
   Take a small bucket of water and drip acclimate your shrimp (see: https://youtu.be/ZSnJjTEjWyU).
   
   This is going to take a few hours. Every 30-45 mins make sure to take some water out of the bucket. Eventually the water in your bucket and the water in the tank will be within 20 TDS of each other. When the water in the bucket is close to the water in the tank you will be set to transfer the new shrimp into his home.
   
   
2. Top off water with RO/DI water. Dont worry about pH swings you will have enough kH in your water that it will be a non issue.
   
   
3. Neos are pretty hardy. You could probably go 3-4 weeks easy before you will need a water change depending on how much crap you add to your water. When your tank gets to 250-300 TDS (or 3-4 weeks depending on which happens first) it's time for a water change.
   
   
4. When doing a water change the end goal is to make sure the TDS will end up between 200-250 TDS. It's a little bit of a guessing game (since I hate sitting down and doing all the math) but lets say your tank is at 300 TDS. I would do a 20% water change and when I am adding new water to the tank I would add gh/kh+ to the new RO/DI water until the TDS was 120-150. Once I added that to the tank the tanks TDS should normalize to about where I want it.
   
   A few pointers about your tank:
   
   
5. You will want a new filter. From the picture I saw I would araid of shrimplets getting sucked up into the big cracks you have on the filter you have. I would suggest a small aquaclear and to purchase one of these (http://www.hanaquatics.com/ss-filter-guard/)
   
   
6. I would purchase a small air powered filter (http://www.amazon.com/XinYou-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-XY-2821/dp/B009V3UGDS) or (http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78)
   
   The sponge filter will grow mincroorganisms that the shrimp love to eat. It will allow your shrimp to graze and be healthy at all times.
   
   I know this is a large wall of text but once you get the hang of it Neocardina are quite forgiving.
   
   NOTE: The salty Shrimp gh/kh is very concentrated so a little will go a long way.

I have the first tank you posted, it works great! And also, you should consider putting some dwarf frogs in there (maximum two) but probably not any fish. You would need a bigger tank to add some fish!

here's a good tank heater:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-7-5w-Heater-Bettas-Bowls/dp/B006JVQ67K

you're also going to need a filter, even if the people at petco say you don't.

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-25846-Whisper-BioScrubber-3-Gallon/dp/B000HHQ712/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426271069&sr=1-1&keywords=1-3+gallon+filter

I got rid of the under gravel "filter" that came with the tank and installed this one instead, leaving out that stupid plastic tube that came with the tank.

With all of these resources you should have a super healthy happy betta!

That light isn't really suitable for freshwater plants. The color (12000k) is for reef tanks. Also, the light is more geared towards lumens than PAR's, meaning that it will make a tank look great, but not provide much in terms of photosynthesis.

I personally recommend people steer clear of no-name ebay lights. Even though they are cheap, they are generally lacking in the PAR's that plants really need thrive. People often buy these lights that look great on their tanks, but then get confused when their plants / corals don't respond to them!

You would do great with the Finnex FugeRay Planted+ light. At 20" you're looking at about $70:

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Planted-Aquarium-Moonlights/dp/B00GH9HSC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411337947&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+fugeray+planted%2B

That should set you up for most any low to medium light requirement plants. I run the 36" version of this and my plants have doubled in size in just a couple weeks.

Nice work. Anubias is perfect - I keep it in my betta tank and he loves it. A few suggestions, though, to make it easier. Take some of the filter material from your current tank and put it in the new filter. If you do that, you have an instant cycle. One suggestion with the live plants is to pick up "Root Tabs." They will provide nutrients to the plants to promote strong root growth. I'd also suggest a liquid fertilizer like Seachem Flourish if you want optimal growth (nice looking plants!).

Also, driftwood is absolutely great. You will have "tannins" leaching into the water from the wood for awhile (essentially brown proteins without getting too much into the biology of it). They aren't harmful to the fish, but can make the water a dark, almost tea color. To deal with this, just change the carbon in your filter more frequently and do more frequent water changes.

Sponge filters are great, I even have a couple for some of my tanks, but you could get a pre-filter sponge for your current filter to make it work. The sponge lessens the flow and keeps the betta's fins from getting ripped up by the intake tube. You won't need to buy another filter or air pump and the pre-filter sponges have the best of both worlds; mechanical filtration and the sponge for beneficial bacteria growth.

> Well, if the husband doesn't want to be Aquarium Robert Smith, just wait.

Cure reference, nice.

> The cheapest way would be to purchase a good HOB filter like an Aquaclear 70 or a fluval C5, though you can get a SunSun canister through amazon at just barely a little more. You're definitely going to want both filters on as you're cycling.

Is this one appropriate? Then to confirm, you are saying run both the 220 that we already have and the SunSun?

> Speaking of which, you've mentioned you're cycling your tank currently--what method are you using to cycle it and do you have a testing kit for your water parameters?

The tank has been filled & there are some cherry shrimp in there right now (We'll find them another home before the cichlids hit the tank.) My husband was in charge of the cycling process, but I can tell you he did some minimal reading & then winged it LOL. He put a used filter from our other tank in there for a week or so in a mesh bag, along with a decent amount of gravel from an active tank. We have since removed all of that so we could put in the sand to prepare for the cichlids. Other than that, cycling has mostly just been waiting (2-3 weeks so far). We tested for ph & ammonia. Ammonia is 0 and I don't remember what the ph was offhand (but it was within range of the cichlids I was considering at the time). We'll need to test that again anyway since we pulled the gravel & put in the sand this past weekend. I also ordered a water hardness test that hasn't arrived yet after reading that cichlids seem to like hard water.

Tbh when my plants go transparent like that they are usually dead, but I’m not familiar with that species so idk for sure! If your water is hard as you say- have you thought about using some fertilizer and especially water conditioner water conditioner? Can go a long way in keeping plants happy. Good luck!

I use these sponge filters. For a good level of filtration, about one per 20 gallons will do the job. But if you want to over filter, 4 is a good number for a 55 gallon.

I stack the filters two to three high (into filter "towers") depending on the height of the tank, so they use up less floor space. But what's really going to make a difference is the strength behind your air pumps. If you're using two separate pumps, I'd recommend they each be rated for a 50 gallon tank for a total rating of 100 gallons. Personally, I love the Tetra Whisper100 air pumps and use one Whisper100 per 4 sponge filters (or per two filter "towers").

Finnex makes a great light. The FugeRay Planted Plus or Planted Plus 24/7 would seem to fulfill your needs. They are a bit pricy, but like you said, LEDs are worth it in the long run.

1)https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMWLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466983637&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+planted+plus+24+7

2)https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GH9HURE/ref=twister_B00HIE3M6U?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

3)http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/145-finnex/189944-finnex-ray-ii-fugeray-par-data.html

Here are links to the two lights I mentioned as well as PAR information for the FugeRay Light. Hope this helps! Cheers.

how do you pre-fertilizing the soil?

Do I just throw in the Osmocote Plus, then Amazonia? is the root tabs optional? I was looking at this Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count. Does the Root tabs go on top?

Also, I was looking into the dry start method which seems like it would be a little easier for myself, what are your thoughts on this?

Thanks for being such a big help and having great advice for a noob like myself!

No that's not going to work - the CO2 in the water is going to bubble up and out of your tank in a hurry, much faster than any benefit you'd possibly get from it. This is a relatively inexpensive system that I've had on my 20 gal tank for the better part of a year and it has given me great results. Most people will tell you not to waste your money on these little co2 cartridges, but I've found it a pretty cost effective way to run co2 on a small tank. The little cartridges last a surprisingly long time.

I personally own several aquariums and I love using these when I go on vacation. I have gone up to 2 weeks and came back with it having at least 20% full on a 75 gallon. Of course I wouldn't advise leaving research animals unattended that long!

https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483475753&sr=8-1&keywords=automatic+fish+feeder+eheim

Things I like about it,

1. Battery lasts forever, I mean I have never had to replace it and I've used it for up to 1 year with a 3 times a day feeding cycle.
   
   
2. The reservoir can hold tons of food. I use flakes as well.
   
   
3. It is highly programmable to how you want.
   
   Potential Issues,
   
   
4. I have ran issues where the hatch slowly opens as time goes on and can eventually dump too much food into the tank.
   a) I taped the hatch to the desired width and haven't had issues since.
   
   
5. I do not know if it will fit onto the type of containment you are using.
   
   
6. It may not the cost effective depending on the amount of tanks.
   
   
7. You cannot really control how much food it dispenses each time.
   
   
   Good luck!

I would recommend this ,Its a bit more than $10 but honestly its cheap in terms of nice filters. I would recommend taking out the cartridge and adding your own biomedia. Its very cheap at pet stores, like $2-3 and then get a little bag to put it in which will be 99¢ or less.

If you’re going to go with RCS, definitely add some real plants and mosses.

For starters, I highly reconmend this link. I’ve ordered them 3 times, and didn’t receive less then 7-8 moss balls either time. In one order, one of the moss balls grew to the size of a softball. https://i.imgur.com/ruBRGs3.jpg

You can actually pull them apart and attach the moss to rocks or driftwood using super glue, which i did due to running out of space for moss balls. https://i.imgur.com/rDTgJ6Y.jpg

Even if you decide to not get any real plants, this is a great addition to your tank and requires no extra work. Another super easy plant to grow that shrimp loves is hornwort.

No problem. Give these threads a read and you will understand PAR sufficiently link 1 link 2

At 10000K you're a bit high for most freshwater purposes. Although it is far worse to be low than high. If you can, aim for around 7000K.

That par is low for plants at your substrate. You want to be at least 30 par at your substrate. This would explain some of your algae problems, as insufficient light can cause algae the same as too much light. Insufficient light leads to an imbalance of nutrients where your plants won't be able to take full advantage of nutrients, which is where opportunistic algae will gladly step in.

I have a finnex planted+ 24/7 on my 10 gallon. The nice thing about that one is the intensity is adjustable. Note that you'll probably need a different length and that generally PAR will increase with length since more bulbs are added.

I just put a finnex fugeray on a 55 gallon, but it is really too early to give an accurate statement to its quality since I haven't had it very long and my tank is not yet established. I basically got it because I was satisfied with my other finnex product. So far it looks extremely bright so I think it will do.

And finally I should just reiterate, you will probably have to drop a chunk of change on a quality light. There are many LEDs out there that look bright to us but don't have sufficient penetration for plants. Yet marketers will gladly tell you they are. Make sure you find those readings otherwise don't bother!

Set up for TWO Axolotls

Realistic initial set up cost $145
(Not including cost of axolotls)

$5-$150 30g tank MINIMUM preferably 40+ (OfferUp Facebook groups Craigslist pet stores)

$1-$130Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 for each (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$75 Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump (link of canister filter is what I use in my 55g tank )

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

SUN 4-Stage Aquarium External Canister Filter with 9 Watt UV Sterilizer 264GPH (HW402B with Pro Filter Kits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFCS6W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CVv7AbX67HQED

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle it helps keeps the water healthy for the axolotls too

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 100 Gallon, 250-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

Marimo moss balls are extremely slow growing plants (really algae) and aren't going to do much in the way of absorbing nitrates ("keeping the water in good condition"). If you want a plant to keep the nitrates in the water low, then you need something that grows quickly like floating plants or stem plants. I like Salvinia minima for floating plants since they're difficult to kill (but not difficult to remove like duckweed). There are tons of stem plants, but the easiest one for me so far has been Hygrophila corymbosa.

Still, they're great at other things (grazing location for shrimp), and I like how they look, so I've bought these a couple times:

https://www.amazon.com/Marimo-Moss-Ball-Variety-Pack/dp/B00I323A0E

When I first got my 29g it had a light similar to that one. I managed to keep crypts and java moss alive, but anything else died. The plants didn't do well, they were barely surviving and it took months for them to grow even a little bit.

If you are interested in growing plants it is so much nicer to have the proper equipment/supplies and be able to grow whatever you want than to save a few bucks and hardly be able to grow anything.

I'm not sure what your budget is, but for $90 you can get a really nice light like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Planted-Aquarium-Moonlights/dp/B00GH9HURE.

My Spanish is pathetic (I've studied it for 5+ years too) but I did find these for you:

Aqueon Betta Pellets

New Life Spectrum Pellets

​

I'm pretty sure I'm still using the bottle of Aqueon pellets I ordered 3+ years ago and I have a lot of fish. That pack should last you a very long time. I also keep mine in little latching air-tight jars to help them last longer. The original container should be fine too though.

I actually use that filter on one of my 10 gallons as well, provides lots of flow for the tank which is good, and good filtration as well. I would maybe suggest changing out the ceramic rings with ehiem media or seachem matrix media, somehting with a bit more surface area, and you would never need to worry about filtration issues. I also recommend putting one of these http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1343104756&sr=8-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter+sponge on the intake of the filter, this will keep the maintenance to a minimum, because it would clog less and the sponge provides additional surface area for beneficial bacteria, i dont have a single tank with out sponge prefilters.

I use mainly LED lights on my tanks. I have had the best luck growing plants with these lights on 29g tanks:

finnex planted plus

finnex stingray

current USA LED freshwater

DIY LED flood light

I have also used clamp shop lights from lowes and the great value daylight led bulbs

I have the same marineland light setup on one of my 29g tanks and it is barely enough to keep a ball of hair algae alive.

New person here replying.

1. Use clear ammonia. No scented or colored ones. Ammonia is usually sold in a 10% ammonia 90% water sort of solution. You probably won't be able to find 100% ammonia. You don't need it anyway. All the cycling guides assume the common household ammonia.
   
   
2. I believe Bio-Spira is only for saltwater tanks. My cousin used a nutrafin (I think) when he did his first tank, I don't think it did anything. Skip the bottled bacteria.
   
   
3. The amount of ammonia you need to add varies on the size of your tank, but the time between redosing is usually about every other day. On the initial dosing you want to get the ammonia in your tank to read about 3 ppm. No more then 4 ppm though. If you hit more then 4 ppm do a large water change to lower it. You want to redose the ammonia when it gets down to 1 ppm, which should take about 2 days. So if you dose on a Friday and come back Sunday night or Monday morning I think you'll be fine.
   
   
4. Once your tank is cycled, you should be doing weekly water changes of about 20%. That is the general rule, but it can change depending on your stock (fish) and filtration. Here's a quick rundown of how the cycle works in a fully cycled tank:
   
   a. Fish eat foot, produce poop, and poop has ammonia in it. Ammonia is bad.
   
   b. Bacteria in your tank will consume the ammonia, but as a byproduct produce NitrItes. Which are also bad for fish.
   
   c. Another bacteria is going to consume the NitrItes, but as a byproduct produces NitrAtes. NitrAtes are tolerated a lot better by fish then Ammonia or NitrItes. Fish can handle about 40ppm of NitrAtes safely.
   
   Therefore, when your nitrAtes hit 40ppm you should be doing a water change. If you have great filtration, lots of plants, little fish, it may take you 2 weeks to hit that number. Your weekly water changes would only have to be done bi-weekly. If you have "ok" filtration, messy fish and not a lot of plants, it may only take 5 days.
   
   Daily testing after your tank is cycled is still required to see how long it takes your tank to go over 40 ppm Nitrates. AND you still need to test afterwards to make sure the amount of water you changed is enough to lower the Nitrates to a safe level. If 20% isn't enough, then you may need to do 35% weekly water changes. It really depends on your setup. We can't know for sure until your tank has been fully set up.
   
   As far as how to do water changes, you should really invest in a water changer. It hooks up to your faucet and lets you pour water directly into the tank. Way easier then using numerous jugs or buckets. Regarding temperature and dechlorinator, you should just "eyeball" the temp with your hand. You are doing a 20%-35% water change, so the temperature shouldn't be swinging more then 1 or 2 degrees. Your fish should be able to handle it. I would suggest doing the water change directly into the tank and then dosing with the dechlorinator for the full amount of water in the tank. Ex. If your tank is 55 gallons, but your only changing about 15 gallons or so, you should dose the tank for all 55 gallons. Dechlorinator is fairly cheap, so while it does waste a bit, its probably not worth your time to be doing 5 gallon buckets at a time and waiting. Your fish will be absolutly fine with chlorinated water for a few minutes. It's not an instant death. Just get it done within half an hour of adding in the new water.
   
   Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347985506&sr=8-1&keywords=api+testing+kit
   It's the API master test kit. Pretty much the standard in water testing. Don't get any paper strips, they suck. Your LFS should carry them if you can't order online or want them fast.
   
   You should also get this: http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Aquarium-Water-Changer-Feet/dp/B000YAJKL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347985595&sr=8-1&keywords=water+changer
   
   It makes water changes SO much easier. Suck water out of the tank directly into your sink, and refill directly from faucet to tank. Such a time saver. There are other brands and lengths, so you may want to double check what you need/like first before ordering. LFS will carry this, but a lot more expensive IME. Might want to order this online and do it the hard way while you wait.

I’ve really never liked buying kits and I always have bad luck with them — you almost always get stuck with shitty tanks, heaters & filters while paying way more than what they’re worth. Most cheapy HOBs also don’t provide any real biological filter media either — just charcoal (which is useless & potentially harmful over time) and filter floss that they want you to buy replacements for.

If I were you, I’d invest in a 10g tank (14 usd at petco & 10 usd during the dollar per gallon sale), this heater or a similarly priced one, and a cheap sponge filter like this. Same cost for a bigger, better tank with a reliable filtrarion that you won’t have to suppress the flow on. You can also go with a 5g, but that’s a minimum and if she’s an active fish, she’ll definitely appreciate the 10g. it’ll also be easier for you as a new fishkeeper to keep the water parameters steady in a larger tank.

You may need to buy a light or lid, but you do have the option of buying a light that will grow plants or the cheapest LED you can find.

As an alternative, especially for those who need larger than a 30-gal bucket, don't have an area to store something like that, or don't care about saving the old water, you can just go straight to your faucet with a water changing kit. HOWEVER, do this only if you know your water is excellent quality and doesn't need to be conditioned prior to use. I'm lucky enough to have great tap water, I've been doing it this way for 18 months, and a 50% water change on my 55g takes 10 minutes.

It's not the best quality, so you will probably have to replace parts of it over time, but it's a good starter kit.

If you want to get some slightly higher quality gear for a comparable price, I recommend:

• get a standard 20 gallon tank at the dollar per gallon sale ($20)
  
• filter: Aquaclear 30 ($30)
  
• heater: Hydor 50W($20)
  
• lights: Nicrew LED 20-27"($30)
  
  Boom, that's $100 and you get pretty much everything that's included in the kit but it will last longer. I don't think the light will let you grow much more than low-light plants, but it probably won't be worse than the light that comes with the kit.

Look, /u/piratesaurus is giving you good advice but IMO it's not the easiest way to introduce your friend to good fish keeping. For starters, everything for larger tanks is more expensive. The tank, the heater, the filter, the dividers...all more expensive. That's like a $100 setup. Another problem is that she'll have to learn all about the nitrogen cycle, so that's another big chemical concept. You want the easiest way to make these guys happier and spend an infinitely less amount of money? Here.

Two Med/large KritterKeepers - plastic, less expensive than glass, small, and no hassle doing an arts and crafts project for the divider and worrying about one fish jumping over it. Also comes with a lid, which actually is very important since some bettas are real jumpers. You just don't know which ones are jumpers and it's better to have a lid. Mine never jumps. Other people, their betta always did it and jumped and died the 1 time they forgot the lid.

Two small heaters - stick them in and plug them in.

Water conditioner - Prime is cheap and concentrated. 2 drops per gal

Gravel - not needed if you want the bare minimum

Silk plants from a craft store - way less expensive than pet store plants and almost always made of soft fabric, not hard plastic which can tear fins. Just cut off what you need. Bettas like to float on the surface.

2 thermometers - temp should be around 78

Pellets - NLS (for betta or small fish) or Omega one (for betta)

There you go. No filter for this cause it's so small. Do 100% change once a week. Feed 3 pellets 2x a day.

How long have you had her? Sometimes it takes new fish a while to figure out the whole feeding thing. Just gently tap on the glass to get her attention and make sure she sees you putting the food in.

For a filter, I really like my Aqueon internal filter. Just get rid of the cartridge and replace with the media of your choice and there you go. Adjustable spray makes it nice, I stick it in a corner and set it a little against the wall and it makes a fun circle current for mine to play in that isn't super strong.

https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I

Buy tank separately, filters, heaters, and lights that come with tanks tend to be low quality so buy separately. I'd say go with 10 gallon for two reasons.

1. A 10 gallon is $15 while a 5 gallon is $13. Two dollars for 5 more gallons seems worth it to me and if petco is doing a $1 dollar per gallon sale than the 10g tank becomes $10.
   
   
2. You could also add other fish in the 10g like a small school of neon tetras, a couple of guppies and or mollies. A 5 gallon is too small for any other fish because most other fishes small enough to live in a 5g like space to move around so they won't be comfortable.
   
   I buy all my supplies on amazon cause i have prime and it's cheaper, i'm a college student so cheapness is everything. This is a good cheap filter and this is a good heater i also recommend a digital thermostat cause it's easier to read the temp rather than squinting your eyes to see the tab thermostats.

This;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005QRDCP2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Plus this;


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EWENMAU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Plus this;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TIEMP6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Equals this;

http://s119.photobucket.com/user/gunzen31/media/617D1269-81D4-45D6-BAAA-E0B97B1D596F_zpsf3btyjod.png.html

33 dollars plus tax free shipping. Add some Chaeto and you have a good sized refugium with a pump that fits perfectly with a piece of 1/2 flexible tubing to connect the pump to siphon tube.

I don't have it yet, but I'm planning on using this. Someone in the review section suggested buying these instead of the refills Fluval sells. Even though there aren't a ton of positive reviews I trust Fluval enough as a brand to feel comfortable buying the kit.

I should add that I'm upgrading my lighting before I get the CO2 system as I feel it'll help my plants more than CO2 will right now.

Hmm, I'm pretty sure I have this sponge running on the whisper 10 that is good enough for the 10 gallon tank on it's own. This is the one on the whisper 40 but it takes up a ton of space and is big enough for a 40 gallon lol.

Aqadvisor is good for estimating bioload levels, but it's not so great at getting the minimum tank size for each species. Tanks can be overstocked in two ways, bioload or space. I use seriouslyfish.com for the space part and Aqadvisor for the bioload part

I have a double tail betta that was never meant to make it, but he has lived an awesome life. Bought him from Petco for 50 cents and they marked him "cosmetically defective." He was only 1/3" long. Now he's almost 1 inch. His spine is a mess and he can't actually be in a real tank because filters throw him around too much. I set up a Marina hang-on breeding box so he gets to use the entire 20 gallon as his sump. He has substrate, plants, decorations, and a floating tube that he sleeps in. His life rules.

Good luck to your guppy, man.

Some bettas do fine with a filter like that and some don't. I have a sponge filter in my betta tanks, but previously used a Top Fin Power 10 (the recalled one actually) in a 10 for a different betta than the ones that I have now, and he didnt seem to mind it at all.

50 Watt ViaAqua. The price is right and I have had 0 issues. Adjustable and submersible.

I got all 3 of mine at PetSmart. Fish are delivered on Fridays, so that would probably be the best bet for getting a healthy one. Less time in the cup often helps, and they are sent in heavily treated water for stress and illness (although admittedly, it does in fact happen) If you have a LFS that is not a chain, that might be worth checking out.

A few thoughts:

• Pick up a timer for your light. It'll give the tank a regular light cycle every day of the week without you having to do anything for <$10 (probably cheaper at a local store than Amazon).
  
• A lot of algae means there's a lot of nutrients in the tank your plants are unable to use. In the case of the dwarf baby tears, they probably need more CO2 than is available in the water column; if they don't have enough CO2, it doesn't matter how many other ferts you dose -- CO2 will be a bottleneck for its photosynthesis and it's going to struggle; meanwhile then the algae will happily use those extra ferts. Keeping up your Flourish Excel would help this situation if you didn't want to go all out and inject carbon. IIRC the correct dose for Excel for your size tank would be about 1ml every day. Flourish should only be dosed once or twice a week; I can't speak to Iron. Simply take whatever the recommended dose on the label is and divide it to match your tank. Example: if label says 5 ml per 50 gals; that's 1 ml per 10 gals, or 0.5 ml for 5 gals. I use graduated eyedroppers to dose my nano tanks.
  
• I think your substrate looks fine for plants (because you're not trying to plant in the sand). If it's not a fertilized substrate, consider getting some root tabs like /u/thefishnoob suggested.
  
• The dwarf baby tears also probably needs more light -- consider getting a higher-output fixture, or add a second of the one you already have. (But wait until after you knock down your algae.)
  
• Another tactic when it comes to knocking down algae can be reducing your photoperiod -- again something a timer can come in handy for.

I bought 6 on amazon for about $10. The company was so nice they actually gave me 2 free moss balls in addition. They came in perfect condition and were as healthy as can be!

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I323A0E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this the other day (10 gal):

https://www.aqueon.com/products/aquarium-starter-kits/ascent-frameless-led-kits

I really love the way it looks. The light is fine for low/medium plants and the filter is fine too although the flow is non-adjustable. I actually swapped it out for this little guy with adjustable flow since I'll have a Betta in here and they don't really like current.

The tank looks really cool in person - way better than the typical aquarium w/ black plastic lid and HOB filter.

I use a UV sterilizer in my tank for a few hours a week. I especially turn it on after cleaning the sides of my tank. My water is crystal clear now and I don’t have to put any chemicals in my water. I actually did go the chemical route at first but it did t help me much. My brother had left the lights on in my tank for 13 days straight when I was out of the country and both brown and green algae plagued my tank for over a year. UV is the way to go for sure. This filter has a built in light and it’s top tier (they come in many sizes, this was just the first one that came up on my search).
https://www.amazon.com/HW-304B-5-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO

I have 2 of these they work perfectly, but you have to get a turkey baster to get their poop out. Good luck with them! Marina Hang-On Breeding Box, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ZUIsGHEMJ7QeD

> Please list ALL the basic equipment for pressurized CO2?

• Cylinder
  
• Regulator
  
• Solenoid Valve - can be bought separately or as a unit with the reg.
  
• Check Valve
  
• Bubble Counter
  
• Diffuser
  
• CO2 resistant tubing
  
• Timer plug
  
  I use a CO2 fire extinguisher rather than a normal cylinder, but it's essentially the same.
  
  Only real downside is the ongoing cost. Other thing to think about are balancing CO2 levels when the lights go off, but that's easy enough to accomplish with the timer plug.
  
  Cost for me was about £100 all in, but I got lucky with some cheap CO2..

I actually use the 304b on my decently heavily planted 75 and it's doing great. I love the 5 trays for media and how it's completely silent. The only problem I've noticed is that water flow all that great in the corner opposite to the spray bar.

It could be too many plants not enough co2. I'd give it a shot as it should give your plants a boost to health either way. I highly recommend the fluval 20g co2 passive defuser! It's great for 5-10 gallons.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049RL3H4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Well, they’re root feeder plants, so you will either need a plant specific substrate, or root tabs Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dQ-ZAbXG42HWD

I personally have one with just sand substrate with root tabs and it’s doing amazing https://imgur.com/gallery/49pX9

I just have an led light that came with a shitty like starter pack aquarium thing and all my plants are doing great. Here are some plants I recommend;

Amazon sword
Anubias
Java fern
Java moss
Hornwort

These are all low light plants and only the amazon sword feeds from the roots, so all the others you could either plant them in regular substrate (gravel or sand) or attach them to something or let them float. Btw tho anubias is a great plant but it has like a kind of bar/divider thing in between the roots and the stems that’s called a rhyzome. If you plant anubias, you have to keep the rhyzome above the substrate.

I have this one in white at work and it is completely silent and can be used as a decent lamp. I also barely ever have to clean it because the filter is great! All the filtery components are in the fogged glass, too, so it looks pretty professional.

For filters I'd go with two Fluval FX6's or two SunSun HW-304B's. Either of those will give you at least 8x overturn per hour. Or you could drill it and do a sump system.

The cheapest substrate would be sand from a local hardware store. My favorite so far is a pure white sand in 50 lb. white paper bags from Menards. Other people prefer black blasting sand, play sand, or pool sand. All work equally as well. As cichlids require hard water, you could use aragonite sand to help buffer the water, but a tank that size needs around 200 lbs. of sand and would get expensive quickly. There's also contractor's sand that is actually small pebbles. You can always go with the chunky gravel sold in pet stores. Or, if you're planting your tank, you could go with a dirted tank topped with sand or small gravel.

Throw in some cichlid stones, driftwood, or rocks to spruce up the decor a bit. Good luck!

heater

Light

Test kit Don't get strips, they're inaccurate.


Dechlorinator seems they have the wrong title up but that's what you want. There are other brands as well.

Gravel vac


For substrate, you can just get some play sand since it's really cheap, just have to rinse a few times until the water runs clear.


For plants, aquabid.com has cheap packages and you can check out r/aquaswap.


Read this to learn how to cycle.

Here is the easiest way to cycle.

I am running a Sun Sun HW-304B in a 55 gal and its been going strong for over a year, friend of mine has 3 of the same filter with no issues and he got his first 2 years before me. I don't know if it will last as long as an Eheim but it keeps my tank clean through overstocking and light maintenance schedules when i get busy. At the price i dont know if you can really do better unless you spend at least twice as much.

eheim daily feeder / air feeder as it's sometimes called.

https://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1481557630&sr=1-1&keywords=eheim+everyday+fish+feeder

Up to 4 feedings, can be used with flake (if very uniform and smaller than the opening- i crush mine up) or pellets. adjustable gate (most people open it up then tape over the opening partially for fine tuning) and you can set each feeding to rotate the drum once, or twice (after a 1 minute delay. helps slower feeders have an opportunity to get something after the more active fish feed on the first dump)

Very happy with mine so far.

Alright, it actually went down in price since I bought it... of course haha, it's this one in case you're wondering. Good luck with your tank!

http://www.amazon.com/ViaAqua-50-Watt-Submersible-Built-In-Thermostat/dp/B005440HLO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396743443&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+heater

Yeah we bought a heater yesterday. If we were to purchase a filter like this would we be able to just hook up our current airstone pump to it and have it work? Or would we need to purchase something different? Thanks for your help!

I would suggest the Aqueon, or better yet get an AquaClear. Actually, for a 75 I would suggest getting a SunSun 304B canister. You'll thank me later.

But yeah, for a 75, you're looking at 650+ pounds. More with rocks and substrate. So you're going to need a heavy duty stand that distributes the weight evenly across the floor- i.e. not on 4 legs.

If you dont give a shit about how it looks, just a simple wall of cinder blocks with some joined 2x4s on top would work and be cheap. If you do care, you're gonna want to not skimp on your stand. Order a high quality stand from Petco, Petsmart, or another online retailer.

You can have the best fish tank in the world but if you put it on a wonky stand, you might as well just spill the tank over yourself and get it over with.

I highly suggest getting some type of foam/sponge thing to put over that filter intake. I lost a beloved ADF as a result of my oversight. His foot got stuck in one of the slats and he ended up drowning (they need to go to the surface roughly every 30 minutes to get air if I remember correctly). It was horrible taking his body off the intake :(

I'm only saying this because I don't want you to repeat what I went through.

I personally have 2 in a 2.5 gallon tank, but they are the only things living in it. So a question would be, do you plan on having other things such as fish? If you have fish, then probably 2 for 10 gallons. If not, then I could see 5 in a 10 gallon being fine.

And like u/numb3rb0y suggested, I would focus some more hides as well. Overall though, I like the tank set-up :)

Certainly. Petco and Petsmart carry them too but I’m not sure about prices. It will be fine for a couple weeks probably, but eventually it will want some food. I think maybe flourish tabs would be a good option.


Seachem Flourish Tabs Growth Supplement - Aquatic Plant Stimulant 10 ct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CJRKDb6JV9A1E

best one if you haven’t tried yet is

EHEIM Everyday Fish Feeder Programmable Automatic Food Dispenser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F2117I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oXIACbM4145DV

easy to adjust and easy to program

Just picked up This one

Thanks for the help though! I have amazon prime so I tend to go for the free 2 day shipping

You can change the water quickly and easily with one of these http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Aquarium-Water-Changer-Feet/dp/B000YAJKL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409009786&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+water+changer

It hooks up to your faucet and uses a venturi to suck the water out of the tank. Turn a valve to fill the tank. Done.

If you are cheap like me you can make your own out of a water bed water changer and some hardware store fittings and garden hose. Works great!

I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/Rps-dfk-Waterbed-Drain-fill/dp/B000FT2PUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=waterbed++drain+fill

This one has a better picture http://www.amazon.com/Waterbed-Mattress-Fill-Drain-Kit/dp/B001QTMTNA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409009927&sr=8-3&keywords=waterbed++drain+fill

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B4KG2Q/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SY115&simLd=1&dpPl=1&dpID=51cgOhWUtTL

Tank


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006JVQ67K/ref=s9_top_hm_b3FMi1z_g199_i2

Heater

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027IZ6KW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419281694&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51A5Tlq5o1L&ref=plSrch

Hammock (optional, I have one for all 3 of my betta, it gives them a nice spot near the surface for resting, I think it would be a nice pick-me-up for a sick betta)

This tank is cheap and I cannot recommend it enough. I got it because a friend had it and I saw how awesome it is. My only suggestion is to move the tube with the filter toward the edge of the tank, as it is kind of obstructive in the middle and you really don't need the little prop thing it comes with.

http://i.imgur.com/FQgJjqP.jpg

My setup with all of the above, including the filter modification. Comes in about $20 under budget too, which id suggest spending on a first aid kit. You never know when your fish could get sick, and it is much better to have everything you need on hand than have to make an emergency pet supply run.

I've been in the turtle game for about a year now, recently I've upgraded my 55 gallon canister filter to 150 gallon one called Sunsun HW-304B and wow has it been an improvement. Turtles need 3x the filter so if you have 55 gallon tank you're going to need one rated for 150-200 gallons which canister filters are preferred since they can last a long time without cleaning and provide better suction.

If you do go the canister filter route I would get this media kit that has everything you need to started.

As far as chemicals go I would stick with TetraFauna Aquasafe and API Sludge Destroyer, use only a little bit since that will make your water cloudy if you use too much.

To pick up food waste and whatever else get this long pole fishnet instead of those short ones that they sell at pet stores so you can get in there really deep without shoving your arm in.

Turtles also need 2 types of light UVB and heat, I found that this combo lamp works fine.

Here's the album with descriptions.

Parts list:

1. Submersible aquarium pump. This way, I'm using electricity to pump water upwards, and don't need to elevate my water tank like in a Blumats system.
   
2. Pipe fitting to attach a manifold to the pump. I got one at my local hardware store, but I think this is the same thing.
   
3. 3/8" tubing to connect the pump to the manifold.
   
4. A kit with a bunch of 1/4" tubing to actually deliver water to the plants.. You could probably do it cheaper if you knew exactly which components you needed to buy, but I didn't so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
   
5. Manifold.This takes the water that comes from my pump and splits it into up to 8 1/4" lines to deliver to plants.
   
6. 5-gallon bucket. I already had one for vacuuming up my water, but you can get one for like 5 bucks at Home Depot.
   
   Total cost: ~$60. Not having to pH, add nutes, add calmag, etc. individually to like 10 individual cans of water: priceless!
   

I think so. Looking at this feeder you should be able to leave the aquarium in the classroom during the school year. I would obviously test the feeder before having to rely on it, but you should be ok. Also fish typically will be ok going a little while without food. One thought though, depending on how cold your classroom will get during the winter, you might want to consider buying a second heater (not a bigger heater, always safer to have multiple lower power heaters, just in case they fail ).

That would leave you with having to move the tank only for summer. This post outlines the process for moving an aquarium link.

On a separate note, I found my old regulator. I'll test it in the next week to make sure it all works, but it was fine when I packed it away. So if you want to do CO2, just PM me and I can send it off to you. I think I have a spare diffuser as well, so all you would have to buy is some hose and a tank.

I've been looking in to getting one now that I've got 5 tanks up and running & while I haven't used it first-hand the Eheim is highly recommended. The best tip I've heard is that in any feeder, you're better off using pellet or micro-pellets instead of flake since it's less likely to clog.

Ankle Length
French Terry Cloth
waist xs29. s31. m32. lg35
inseam xs27.5. s28.5. m28.5. lg30


Never seen an aquarium measured like this!

Do you have a planted tank?
Finnex Planted+ are on sale right now. They have a light that should fit you.

Otherwise get something like this and then go to a class shop and have them cut you two pieces of glass and get a divider thing in between them so you can lift the front up. Pretty inexpensive to do.

I definitely recommend the programmable kind- they're a little pricey but they work great. I break the algae wafers into little chunks that are small enough to be deposited by the feeder. http://www.amazon.com/Everyday-Feeder-Programmable-Automatic-Dispenser/dp/B001F2117I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373668034&sr=8-1&keywords=fish+feeder This is the one I use, it has an adjustable door so you can choose how much food comes out when you use is.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I323A0E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i got this set from Aquatic Arts, they sent me 3 or 4 bonus ones too! overall the best price ive found and the quality is ok, not the most beautiful marimos but they are definitely real

Aqueon Aquarium Water Changer
The Amazon link

I have one and oh man I love doing water changes now lol but if you drain and fill with a garden hose that is pretty much the same thing. I was carrying buckets for days for a small % water change, I knew something would give, my back or my patience

These babies are what you want. They have done wonders for two of my sand/gravel substrate tanks. All stem plants are bright red or deep green and growing surprisingly quickly. I also dose flourish excel every other day.

Sun Sun makes super quiet canister filters. The intake and outtake pieces are cheaply made but the filter itself is awesome. I ran one in my 50 gal before I switched to a stock tank with a pond filter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I323A0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CNsXDbQP3D8MB

I kind of want to get them.. theres some bad reviews which scare me a bit but 4.1k reviews for 4.5 stars seems good. And the deal itself is pretty good too.

Yeah the Marino balls I have are like weird textured. Idk if they are fake I got them from here. www.amazon.com/dp/B00I323A0E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

They brake apart so easily and are just kind of not the same texture I got from a pet store. Was looking for not really a carpet type plent but maybe something the cherries can swim through feel like that would make them happy.

Thanks, I'll do a bit more research on CO2 before I pull the trigger. I'll probably end up buying this since it's pretty cheap and seems good for a beginner.

I use this, which is a just a discounted version of this.

Visually it's cumbersome, but it works like a charm. If my tank were facing the other direction (I have it so the return nozzle is at the "front") it would be a lot less noticeable.

Despite the space it takes, I feel like Touch has regained part of the tank that he wasn't really enjoying, because the return current was so strong that he was getting a little blown around in there.

• You'll need a thermometer
  
• A net is handy (but not needed)
  
  This 5-gallon kit is very affordable and includes those things. However, the filter is very strong and needs to be baffled:
  
  http://www.petsmart.com/fish/aquariums-stands/top-fin-led-aquarium-starter-kit-zid36-36002/cat-36-catid-300013?var_id=36-36002&_t=pfm%3Dcategory
  
  I wouldn't wait to get a heater unless your indoor temperature is pushing 80. I'd get an adjustable one, since sometimes Bettas can get sick and the treatment involves turning up their water temp.
  
  For a small tank a 25W heater is fine, but for some reason on Amazon the 50W Hydor Theo is usually cheaper...
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061UQ6G/ref=twister_B00ZX0DDS8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Also add the API master test kit to your list. It's a big upfront buy, but it's worth it over the long haul.
  
  For water conditioner, I suggest Seachem Prime. I've been through several, and wish I'd bought Prime to start with.

You could use a 7.5W under substrate heater for that. Link

There's no need to be afraid of fires, these things are very well protected with grounding and there isn't really a risk.

That said, 0.5 gallons is really too small for a betta. If you can I would upgrade the tank ASAP to a 5 gallon or 2.5 gallon as a bare minimum. In such a small tank he won't have the best water quality and the conditions can change very quickly.

It's a win-win - Dreamy will have more space to swim, he'll have better water quality, be healthier and the larger the aquarium the easier it is to maintain. You have more space to aquascape too!

I may actually improve on the design a bit and add a small circulating water pump like this, though I may have to think about this design a bit since I'm not sure that the pump will like the warmer water it would be dealing with..

Tetra is a cheapo brand, I would recommend something else. But it will be fine as long as you baffle the output with a filter sponge or pantyhose.

Something like this would be better (will need an air pump).

As long as you don't keep your home really cold, this will probably do: http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-7-5w-Heater-Bettas-Bowls/dp/B006JVQ67K

If you want to be sure its good enough, these are pretty high quality for the cost (probably too large if you have the 2.5gal): http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422690305&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+heater&pebp=1422690295593&peasin=B0006JLPG8

It should feel like moss underwater, as opposed to hair. You can also pull off small chunks really easy. They're really hardy plants, so I would worry about how they were shipped.

edit: I'd also returm them on the grounds of improper size/count and get these, these are what I bought. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I323A0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_05CAxbPR2F9ZA

Picture
Mine came with some grains of sand on them which I just brushed off.

I'm not sure on the fin rot. But as far as the heat solution they do have small under gravel heaters that are good up to about 3-5 gallons.
My girlfriend got one of these for her oddly shaped tank. Works pretty well.

This seems like a pretty good option: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F2117I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14IZ8JAGKKH3G

I'm having good luck so far with DYI using yeast and jello for my 10gal. But If you're looking for something a little bigger you could start with this kit. It has an adapter to mini CO2 cartridges that you can buy at in a number of places--like at Dicks Sporting Goods with airsoft and paintball equipment, or at kitchen appliance stores with seltzer makers.

If you want bigger than that try to find somewhere nearby that sells beer brewing kits, as they'll have a range of tank sizes for home-brewed kegs, as well as regulator valves for them.

*just saw your comment about the Fluval minis, so just disregard that.

I live in Southern California where it gets slightly colder over the winter and even though we keep the house warm I got a tank heater with a thermostat just in case. My main concern was the temp fluctuation since most shrimps like it consistent.

The heater rarely cuts on but keeps my mind at peace! I have this one for a teeny tiny 5gal: https://www.amazon.com/ViaAqua-50-Watt-Quartz-Submersible-Thermostat/dp/B005440HLO/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1479953784&sr=1-3&keywords=viaaqua+quartz

here’s the product I’m out to dinner but I’ll PM you later a picture if you’d like, it’s a pretty small footprint out side of the tank, the included diffuser is a tad large for my 5 gal but I don’t think it detracts too much.

I had a Used XP-L,, in my experience.. the best bang for your buck filter is this one..

http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-China-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449086307&sr=8-1&keywords=sunsun

i one one running close to 3 years and still going strong.

Thanks for the answer! Think I'll probably be going with this one after I get my lid set up today. $115 isn't too horrible of a punch, since this'll probably be the last big tank set up we'll do [outside of a koi/goldfish pond later on]. ... Well, that's what we keep telling ourselves anyway.


As for CO2, I'm not entirely sure quite yet. I have some root tabs right now, and I'll look into picking up some of the daily applications while I save up money for a pressurized system. The plants I have currently seem to be doing really well outside of the hair grass refusing to carpet... but it definitely has had up-growth since I've bought it. Getting it to carpet seems to be the big reason to go CO2 though.

I have a few of these and the water temp on the other side of the tank is usually around 75-76 F. The trick with these presets is to get a little water flow going across it to evenly heat the water. In 2 of the tanks with these heaters I have an Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter
[https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Quietflow-Internal-Filter-Gallon/dp/B00AWV4R8I](this one) and I have the outflow pointed right at the heater.

I like the Aqueon Pro heaters or Ehiem Jager heaters better honestly. They cost a bit more, but the quality is better and they're adjustable. Once they're calibrated they sit right at the set temperature. I have the Aqueon Pros in my 55g show tank and two of my split 10s, and the Ehiem Jager in the 10g my Sammy gets to himself.

Your fish would love you forever if you gave him a better home!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K0ZKAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_OqGYtb0N8R59GBW9

This is a great response thank you! I saved an eheim 50w heater that looks really nice and is very adjustable. I'll have to look more into filters obviously I don't want something that'll push him around so a sponge filter sounds nice.

I saw this filter but need to find some opinions on it for Bettas:
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-10-Gallon-QuietFlow-Internal-Filter/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1477313479&sr=1-5&keywords=aqueon+quietflow

Yes your LFS will test the water for you. You might want to take some tap water to get tested as well. That way you know what you are working with. In most cases just some dechlorinator is sufficient. I use this: api tap water conditioner. 1ml per 20 gallons. So you'll only need a couple of drops with every water change.

Also keep in mind that test strips are not very accurate so you can use them to make sure your water params are stable but not as a way to know the exact values.

That's good to hear, so they're the same as the SunSun models?
I found this:
http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

It appears to have a higher flow rate than the Penn Plax Cascade's in
my price range. Seems like a good deal

You are going to need to up your filtration if you plan to get more fish (it would make sense with more space) I would reccomend 2 of these! http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-304B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B008986EQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394340840&sr=8-1&keywords=sunsun
That is what i have on my 125 and they are awesome for a fairly good price.

+2 for the Fugeray (mine's the 16") - it rests well right over the opening in the lid.

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Planted-Aquarium-Moonlights/dp/B00GH9HSC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417812192&sr=8-1&keywords=Finnex+FugeRay+Planted%2B+Aquarium+LED+Light+Plus+Moonlights

I felt a little silly at first spending so much on a light (I'm still new to all of this) but good lawdy there's a huge difference in the quality of light between what came with the V and the Fugeray. I'm still cycling but the plants are off to the races under the new lighting.

I just bought one of these last week. I haven't hooked it up, yet, but it got amazing reviews on amazon.

Thanks! I didn't want to make people think I was selling a product to them or something... but here's an amazon link to what I bought :)

https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526231723&sr=8-2&keywords=breeder+box