(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hunting & fishing books

>The data for foot-pounds of force is taken from expected use: a 9mm round through a Glock 19, a .308 through a 24" barrel, etc. It should be noted that you'll lose muzzle velocity the shorter your barrel gets. I believe this also increases felt recoil, right?

A little more complicated, but true enough in practice. A shorter barreled weapon usually has faster burning powder. So if you run a .45acp through a long rifle barrel (20") you might end up with less muzzle velocity.

The only thing (if the cartridge is the same) that increases felt recoil is the weight of the weapon, and the way the firearm deals with recoil. If you fire a .308 in an ultralight guide rifle - it is going to hurt. If you have a shorter barrel, there will be less recoil entering the firearm but negligible as to what you feel. Once the gasses exit the barrel they aren't acting on the gun that much anymore. That is why silencers and muzzle breaks reduce recoil - because the gas that used to just flow away is now pushing forwards on the gun, reducing recoil.

If the weight of the gun is the same, the way that the firearm deals with or uses the recoil becomes very important. In a very rigid firearm (say an ultralight scandium/titanium revolver) there is no energy absorbed and slowed by the frame - it ALL goes into your hand (ouch!). If you get a polymer frame, the firearm flexs a bit and slows the recoil making it more comfortable.

If the firearm actually makes use of the recoil energy (autoloaders) then part of that energy is being used to cycle a new round. This reduces the recoil delivered to you, and makes it slower and more comfortable. Roller locked delayed blowback designs (MP5, G3, etc) do a great job of transferring the recoil impulse into a lighter weight bolt and using acceleration to absorb the energy instead of mass. Personally, I think this was one of the greatest systems there was (and is to a far less degree) for shooter comfort - but there are wear issues that are more of a concern (100k rounds or something) than in locked bolt designs.

When you get into the more recent guns, they start to use most all of the above. My FN FS2000 shoots like a dream. Polymer frame, somewhat heavy gun, lighter bullet, piston driven locked bolt, longer rearward travel of the bolt group, and everything hits flexible on flexible, energy absorbing stock. My wife can shoot this and doesn't find it much different than a .22lr 10/22.

Then you get into the designed for recoil guns, and I know of only one - the KRISS. I read about this thing a long time ago, and it seemed ingenious, but although it popped up in the magazines from time to time it never "took." But they are real now (as in you can buy them) and while I haven't shot one yet, apparently the hype lives up to the performance. In these guns you take all of the above, and add purposefully engineered methods of reducing to eliminating recoil. The idea is that you take the recoil energy and make it go up and down instead of back, in a basically mutually exclusive waste of energy.

http://www.kriss-arms.com/technology

From the one guy that I have met that has shot one (an owner of a very large gunshop) he described it as "irrelevant."


>Do you have any good information on the upper limits for this sort of thing? I made the mistake of shooting a hand-loaded .45-70 I wasn't ready for -- that was at least 3,000 ft/lbs (yeah, I know, "I swear it was this big"). How much more could you load a .45-70, for example, before it's unsafe? How little energy could you pack in a 9mm before it will fail to cycle (I know this is very dependent on the gun, and many cheap handguns won't cycle even with solid factory ammo)

This is something you have to find bit by bit, and with the help of advanced hand loaders. There are people who use "cups" (I can't remember the exact name, but I think that might be it) to load up rounds and then they can determine chamber pressure by the deformation of the cup. If you are willing to be more patient, and a little more risk taking you can slowly work your way up and see how the brass performs.

So unfortunately, no help there.

>Very true. The reason I think muzzle energy is a great indicator of a firearm's power is Newton's 3rd Law. Two cartridges with equal muzzle energy but a different bullet shape (or weight to speed ratio) may have different stopping power, but two cartridges with equal muzzle energy will have equal recoil. Since most "I'm interested, tell me more" type shooters are interested in getting experience with firearms -- not getting information on how best to take down an animal -- I think that set of statistics is the most valuable.

For sure, for sure. I really was just trying to fill in some of the blanks you left. As I said your post was great.

>I definitely agree with that and every point you've made seems like it's deserving of a post -- 'beginners guide to safe, humane, effective hunting', perhaps. I was more interesting in the mechanical, experiential explanation of general firearms terms. Personally my only real interest with firearms is in target shooting, so it's clear why I didn't focus on hand loads, stopping power, etc. Out of my realm of (amateur) expertise.

I can tell you aren't going to remain in that "amateur" (let's be real, you know more than 98% of people at LEAST) stage for long. Once you get bitten - people usually go nuts on it. I went way overboard, but hey - it is fun learning about it. :)

This is the ballistics book that got me more interested in it -http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Firearm-Ballistics-Robert-Rinker/dp/0964559854/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1370674745&sr=1-1&keywords=ballistics

As a warning - you have to really enjoy it because it is like 500 pages and it doesn't read like a mystery novel. LOL

Don't edit your post, because it was great and factual - it just provided an incomplete picture. For most people purchasing a lower powered round is actually quite a bit more helpful in practice.

Sorry for barraging you with text again. This is just a topic that I really enjoy, so I probably ramble off point and write more than I need to. :)

Honestly if you have zero experience I suggest getting one of those how to books.

http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Idiots-Fishing-Basics-Edition/dp/0028638840

http://www.amazon.com/Fishing-Dummies-Peter-Kaminsky-ebook/dp/B004X75OMA

They may seem silly, but they have all the information a beginner would need, like basic equipment information, fishing knots, and species specific info. Being from SF you will more than likely will have more saltwater opportunities than freshwater (I am from CA but not from SF so I am not 100% sure about that). This allows for some interesting opportunities. You go can use a charter service which often provide everything you need (so you are not stuck with a bunch of fishing tackle if this isn't the hobby for you) or you can use one of the many piers in CA. The cool thing about piers is that many of them have bait shops that rent out gear (again no permanent investment on your part) , they also usually do not require a fishing license which is a bonus. A regular fishing license currently runs $47.01.

If you are interested in buying you own gear and going the whole 9 yards there are a few things to keep in mind. One rod and reel set up will not covering everything. Set ups need to correspond with the types of fish you targeting. Things can get very expensive too. Rods and reels can easy cost $100s. However I believe that the cheap gear of today is generally much better than than it was 20 years ago. A casual fisherman can get good use out of 40/50 dollar setups. Now if I were starting out I would get something like a 6 1/2 to 7 foot medium action spinning rod. I like Berkley Cherrywood rods, they usually run just over 20 buck they seem to be available at any old walmart. For a reel I would get either a 2500 or 4000 Shimano. You can spend as little as $20 bucks to several $100 on Shimanos. The $20 to $40 ones should serve you just fine. Fill the spool with 8 to 10 lb test line and you got a budget light tackle set up. I should note that going after steelheads is not what I would consider casual fishing.

Now that set up I mention would serve you fine for casual fishing for trout, bass, even eating size catfish, but I had another purpose in mind. Out here on the west coast we have surf perch which offer year round fishing. The best part is that it is probably some of the easiest fishing there is. They hold on just about every beach and they do not require fancy techniques. Sandy beaches usually lack the kind of structure that would cause a fisherman to break off, so re tying your hooks becomes less of an issue. Its is probably a good place to learn how to cast as there is plenty of room for error. Small soft plastics are the preferred "bait" used for surf perch which is another bonus because it will not stink or be messing like natural bait. The "technique" is nothing more than casting out and reeling in slowly. You will have to learn how to set a hook, but using very sharp hooks can help with that as the fish can hook themselves. The only bad thing is the salt water and sand. Do you best to keep you reel out of both and rinse of the entire reel in fresh water when you get home. I love this kind of surf fishing because it is so simple. In the summer it can be fun just get in the water to your knees and have a nice day fishing. If you catch nothing then you still spent your day at the beach.

Sorry if I "talked your ear off". I really like fishing. Feel free to come over to r/fishing.

Sure those can help, nothing about casting has changed per se, but there you may find modern instruction to be a lot less rigid. There's been more of an awareness in recent years that there is more than one way to skin a cat.

I used to dabble in competition distance fly casting, for example, and I was told on many occasions that an open stance cast (like Lefty teaches) could never deliver a fly more than one hundred feet. I would just strip off the line, lay the fly down at 105 feet or whatever, and ask them to explain again why it was impossible. They couldn't -- they were all operating on received wisdom.

The machine I described was invented by Bruce Richards, who ran the Scientific Anglers fly line lab for many years, and Dr. Noel Perkins of the University of Michigan. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fly_Casting_Analyzer

That machine helped show that a good caster makes the fly rod behave in the same way, even if the caster himself may stand a little differently or drop his shoulder a bit more, etc. Humans have different physiques, so biomechanically there is more than one way to make the rod do what we need.

The best casters in the world are all built like fireplugs and tend to cast directly over their shoulders, so they can maximize the strength of their back and chest muscles. That is the traditional method of casting, but personally I question whether the way they do it is required to make those massive casts or if it is just confirmation bias. The only time I ever stood on a podium and made a distance cast in competition with those guys, I think my best shot was 108', and Steve Rajeff (the best caster ever) used the same set up to throw 112' and win the tournament. I am absolutely nowhere near as good a caster as Steve Rajeff, and what that suggests to me is that style doesn't matter; it's just discipline and experience that count. Rajeff happens to be in the over the shoulder school, and is also the best caster in the world, but there's no telling what he might have been if he had decided to cast the way Lefty teaches for his whole career instead.

I'm probably overkilling on the explanation for a guy like you who is just starting out, but the takeaway is that you can learn to cast in several different ways and all will work. I think Lefty's is the fastest pathway to success.

One more excellent book once you get going: "Troubleshooting the Cast" by Ed Jaworowski. I think every angler should own this book and I believe it to be the most effective written tool in existence once you take the first step past 'rank beginner'.

https://www.amazon.com/Troubleshooting-Cast-Ed-Jawrowski/dp/0811729427

Great book full of easy to understand diagrams.

Last thing, here is a piece on ten common mistakes and how to fix them:

http://www.itinerantangler.com/blog/podcasts/2016/01/13/ten-most-common-casting-errors-and-how-to-fix-them/

Quoting myself, because we get this type of question all the time.

> * Avoid the starter kits. The vises are generally crap and the materials are usually only enough to make a handful of flies. A good vise is going to be somewhere between 100-200 dollars, but certainly worth the investment. See here. I use a Peak Rotary Vise, and it's built like a fucking tank. You could certainly buy a starter tool kit (bobbin, bodkin, scissors, whip finisher, hackle pliers) but I wouldn't spend much more than 20 or 30 bucks on it, because you'll be upgrading them all eventually. The bare minimum I would say to get is a bobbin and a pair of scissors.

• Start easy. You're not going to be tying fully dressed salmon flies from the start. Your first flies are going to look like shit, but trust me, they will still catch fish. My first fly was an ugly scud imitation with some dubbing and a bead taught to me by a local angler, and to this day, is still one of my most productive patterns. If you want a good book to start, I'd suggest Simple Flies by Morgan Lyle. Certainly not a complete guide to all flies, but it's a basic book and has some nice history on each of the flies.
  
  > Find out what patterns are hot/successful in your area, along with the standards (Wooly Buggers, San Juan worms, PT and Hare's Ear nymphs, etc.) and buy materials accordingly.
  
  > Buy materials in bulk once you've got a decent repertoire of flies. Hooks tend to be the most expensive part of most flies (generally 15-20 cents per for most dry, nymph, scud and streamer hooks) so buy them on sale if you see them. Daiichi, Tiemco, Gamakatsu are all fine hooks and run about $20 for 100 hooks. Dry fly hooks are more fragile/brittle, so I don't cheap out on those, but for other styles, the quality may not be as important and you could buy other brands. Also, don't be offset by the price of Capes. $40-60 dollars for a bunch of feathers seems expensive at first, but you should be able to tie 100s of flies off one good cape. The Whiting Hackle Starter Pack is a good start for about $65 if you want to start tying dry flies. In the end, you're using maybe 50 cents worth of material (at most), for a fly that you would by from the shop for 2 or 3 bucks. The real cost is in time, but there is nothing more satisfying than catching a fish on your own fly.
  
  > Look to see if your local outfitter or TU Chapter has any Fly Tying nights. It's a good way to meet local anglers and you can learn quite a bit from them.
  
  > Crimp your barbs or buy barbless. When, not if, you hook yourself with a barbed hook, it sucks.
  
  > Buy 2 pairs of scissors, one fine tip/razor for small work and a heavier duty pair for cutting hairs, yarns, etc. Don't ever use your scissors on any wire. Learn how to tie with the scissors in your hand, it will save you a ton of time.
  
  > Youtube is a fantastic resource for video and instructions. I find it much easier to learn than trying to copy recipes from a book. Search for InTheRiffle, Davie McPhail and Jim Misiura. Thousands of high quality videos with just about every fly pattern you will ever tie. Don't be afraid to do something different either. Use whatever tricks and techniques work best for you.
  
  Feel free to PM me if you have any questions

Observation is your best friend. Learn to recognize what's on/in/under the water. Check out Handbook of Hatches by Dave Hughes for a good basic guide to what trout eat and flies to match them. The Mayfly Guide by Al Caucci (PA fishing legend) is more specific but a beautiful little book. Trout Streams of Pennsylvania by Greg Landis is a great guide to our wonderful state's streams and often gives specific advice regarding what hatches may be found on a particular one. Edit: No Hatch to Match by Rich Ostoff is a great guide for all those times that there aren't bugs on the water.

I'm also in SE PA (Philly) and would be happy to meet up and wet a line. Drop me a PM if interested.

If you haven't fished with a fly rod before then going with a guide is a good idea, especially if you've got a buddy who wants to go and you can split the cost. It is not cheap but the guide will save you the headache of trying to find a place to get in and out of the water, can give you enough ideas to make your next few trips, and will save you the frustration of going out hoping to have a good time and not having any idea what the hell you are doing.

Especially fishing these little spring creeks you may wind up having to roll cast a lot (otherwise you will spend a lot of time trying to get your precious new flies out of the tree branches behind you), and that is one of those things that is a lot easier to do when you can watch somebody who knows what he or she is doing.

Finally, when I first started fishing with flies, I made the mistake of setting out on my own seeking out beautiful pristine new england creeks and ponds with native brook trout, and I didn't catch a god damned thing. Later I made a few outings with my uncle on a little pond full of bluegill. On the still water I could actually see what my casts were doing, and I was fishing little dries like red quills, so I got to have the whole experience of presenting the fly and seeing the fish come up and take it on top. I think it is much more gratifying to bring in a few really dopey fish with hapless technique than to go out and fail to catch any trout. Also a 1/2lb bluegill on a 3wt fly rod feels about like catching a 10lb striper.

After a few of those trips I was having fun again, I made some guided trips out west and didn't make an ass of myself.

Here are my two books I like:

http://www.amazon.com/Flyfishers-Guide-Virginia-Including-Virginias/dp/1932098399/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334973191&sr=8-1


and

http://www.amazon.com/Simplified-Fly-Fishing-S-Slaymaker/dp/0811722791/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1334973229&sr=1-2

good luck and report back!

generally, i dont keep track of anything to be honest. I don't mean to divert here but it just sounds like you're looking for something to do. Sounds like you have a bit of cabin fever sir!

How about take a good look at your tackle and try to decypher exactly why or how a lure works. The next step is start making your own tackle! That's what I do. I've started tying flies and taking those characteristics i've learned from lures I love fishing with and applying it to new lures.

I picked up a book recently at a fishing flea market in town here. One thing that always bothered me in the summertime was that I always saw bass and such snapping at the surface for dragon flies. Taking a look through that book gave me ideas at making some dragon fly lures. If you're into panfish this book is great too. Don't underestimate jigs or spinner jigs. You can tie them up with fly tools too and they are fun. I'm about to head out to work now but if you want I'll post some pics of some things I made this winter.

Sounds like you're into bass fishing and if you're looking for more "hard lures" you can check out making them too. I shop at janns netcraft for a lot of my lure making stuff but you can find a lot of good deals at ebay stores. I usually get jigs and such off ebay in bulk packages, because i can use them with soft lures too. Always useful.

Itinerary and duration for Budapest in June looks fine to me. It doesn't sound like you're ill-prepared at all. Meeting your mates for the football is also a great psychological 'goal' (haha) on your journey to keep you moving. My other thoughts:

• I find having a Lonely Planet really helpful. I'd recommend getting their 'SE Asia on a Shoestring' guide.
  
• I pack as light possible. First time I went travelling I threw/gave away half my clothes/stuff cause I wasn't using them.
  
• For hostels, if you want to stay flexible with dates and locations, I'd say book the night before otherwise you may potentially be tied to a date/location that is not your preference (if you had booked well in advance). Also consider Couchsurfing where kind locals accommodate you for free. A great way to meet people and save money.
  
• I made a video guide for the Trans-Siberian railway, which provides info on costs, tickets, internerary, mistakes, etc. Vladivostok to St Petersburg can be done for just £200.
  
  Good luck. Your trip sounds awesome. Within a week, I'm sure you'll be super confident about it all! : )

Effing right on, dude! That's 23 inches of more catfish than I've caught since moving to Idaho 8 years ago. I've read your post, and it's interesting that the channel took your live bluegill. I don't mean that to say that they don't like live bait, but I don't think they are the prolific hunters like flathead are. It's entirely possible your bait could have been dead like you said, my experience being if you catch them out of the same body of water and hook above the lateral line they stay lively for a good long time. That's how we would bait our trotlines as well. But what do I know! Congrats on the fish is what's really important!

Do yourself a favor and check out this book and video if you have not seen them before.

In-Fisherman Catfish Fever Book -

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0929384040/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

This is a book my dad bought new and I read I don't know how many times as a kid. It covers the BASICS and FUNDAMENTALS of catfishing. Some stuff I'm sure you already know, but it's a great, fast read, nonetheless.

In-Fisherman Catfish Fever Video -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNJrMr4PcsY&list=PLVUyyZUmtqDBtDWs7GsRUs1dPYd6SDrVU

This is the VHS video that was released alongside the book that somebody was cool enough to break up into 6 episodes and upload to the YouTubes... If you don't want to read the book then at least watch these, it's only an hour of your time. Otis 'Toad' Smith is dead now, but he probably shit out more catfish knowledge every morning than most of these folks have total these days. Doug for that matter, too.

Sorry for rambling, but nobody has ever taken my fishing advice before... Good luck, man! I hope those other resources can help you too!

Check out this book: Complete Angler's Guide to Oregon

There is some seriously great information in there about forgotten/locals-only fishing spots throughout the state that you might not be able to find any information on from the internet. There is a sizable chunk of the book available for free from google books, but it's definitely worth the purchase.

I've also found that so long as you're willing to put a little hike in, all the rivers or lakes in Oregon are pretty easy to find solitude on. Pretty amazing how easy it is to get away from the crowds, as long as you're ready to walk.

A good way to increase your knowledge base is reading. Here are some books I have read and would recommend.

A. Navy Seal Shooting by Chris Sajnog.

Probably the best book to learn about the fundamentals. Chris covers the mental mastery of shooting better than any other book I am aware of.

B. In The Gravest Extreme by Massad Ayoob.

If you own guns for self defense I would recommend this book. While this was written in the 1980's it is still relevant today. It is the definitive work on deadly use of force law in the United States.

C. Combat Shooting (Or any other book) by Massad Ayoob

Ayoob has established himself as perhaps the authority on defensive handgun use through his extensive use of case studies.

D. The Book of Two Guns by Tiger Mckee.

This was written primarily revolving around the AR-15 and 1911. However, It's principles are applicable to any fighting rifle or handgun.

There are a few books out there for an "everything" guide to fishing. I know that BASS and the North American Fishing Club both had books out, and I have seen some other ones at outdoors stores. I did a quick search on Amazon and found "The Complete Guide to Freshwater Fishing. Know though that all of these books are pretty much the same. Most go through the types of baits, reels, rods, knots, and fish (including their range, how to fish for them during different times of the year, etc.). There may even be one at your local library. You can also find old versions of books on Amazon as well- this is an old edition from the NAFC.
As for a rod/reel, I would go to a store and ask someone. When I first started out I would ask what they would recommend and have never been disappointed (just know what fish you want to go after and a price range).


EDIT: I just found one of the books that I own, which in my opinion is the best beginner's book out there (it helped me out when I started). It's by the NAFC and it's called "Catch fish anywhere, anytime". You may be able to find it on other websites besides Amazon as well.

“Fishing for Dummies”

It seems silly, but it’s a great basic overview with good illustrations and diagrams. Used copies are pretty cheap online. I started fishing in a vacuum and this book got me started.

I think the best instructional books for a beginner are either the Orvis Fly-Fishing Guide or the LL Bean Ultimate Book of Fly-Fishing. For fun reads, you can't go wrong with any of John Gierach's books. Trout Bum would be a good starting point.

It's all a process, and we cant answer everything for you.

Try a free class on the basics. Bring your rod and reel to the class, ask them questions about it. They'll help you out.
http://www.orvis.com/flyfishing101

Try watching some videos to shed some light on how best to approach things. http://howtoflyfish.orvis.com/video-lessons

Try asking a flyshop near that river what to throw. They'll know whats working so you can stop asking yourself if the flies are correct. They'll be able to answer a lot of things.

Try a book or two about everything else.

Easy reading: https://amzn.com/0936608064

Detailed reading: https://amzn.com/0385308167

I've done conceal carry for almost 10 years and tried a lot of different things. Here are my recommendations:

Get yourself a Shield or Glock 43. They're both solid stock pistols and the overall most versatile concealed carry pistols in terms of holsters, accessories, and trigger/sight upgrades. Get a good pocket or IWB holster for it. If you want to carry IWB, get a proper gun belt. I do both and now lean toward pocket carry, as it's the most comfortable and most versatile for any given wardrobe. You will simply carry more days of your life if you have a pocket setup available.

Once you get a holster, practice the draw without any ammo every day until you accumulate 300-500 repetitions. Start slow to get your form down. Use videos from top competitive shooters on draw stroke technique [1], [2] to get an idea of the fundamentals. Also see Ben Stoeger's Dry Fire Training and Practical Pistol: Reloaded for more on core shooting skill. Check out the entire Tactical Preschool series for a primer on tactics and mindset.

Whenever you get budget for it, get some training. You'll want to look for someone with a Master or Grand Master classification in USPSA for core shooting skill and a former SWAT or military instructor for tactics and mindset. If you can find someone with both, great, but it's fine to go to different, specialized trainers.

Upgrades never hurt. I just have seen so many people get equipment tunnel vision so I harp on it. Sounds like you have your priorties straight. If you have extra cash buy this
https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Fire-Training-Practical-Pistol-Shooter/dp/1497319633/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524539065&sr=8-2&keywords=ben+stoeger+dry+fire

It's cheap, and if you stick with it you will improve.

I see what you mean. There are two ways lakes like that are fished for pike. First is ice fishing and the second is trolling which, is setting up a rig off the back of the boat and towing slowing at various depths. You might not have a boat in which case it is a lot of walking the edge. If you do not have a boat yet it might be something to save up for. I once saw a guy on Lake Champlain fishing from a raft he made out of drums and plastic bottles with a electric motor on the back. It is easier to cast to the shore than out into the lake. Remember this: fish are only using 10% of the water. Bigger fish are not out in the middle of that lake. Fish follow food. Plankton/ zooplankton is pushed by the wind and smaller fish follow and so on. Though fish do move and change depth according to temperature and dissolved oxygen and at times light penetration in general they are to be found on the edges. If you are really interested here is a great book. I would scan the pages and email you the section but it is 20 pages on pike alone.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1589230094/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=1589233212&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1M84A1BZ5AVRRSWN0C1K

Quality of practice is more important than quantity. If you're just making holes and noise for 150 rounds, then that's all you're going to get. Practicing specific drills against a shot timer, augmented with a structured dryfire routine, and logging your progress, will show dividends fast.

https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Fire-Training-Practical-Pistol-Shooter/dp/1497319633/

This guy right here. I read it while I was bored in Air Force tech school and it was a great resource.

For the practical aspect of carrying & using your firearm (as opposed to the legal aspect), I recommend Combat Shooting by Massad Ayoob

This book helped me out a lot when I first started. Covers a broad range of topics, a good primer.

https://www.amazon.com/L-L-Bean-Ultimate-Book-Fishing/dp/159228891X

Dynamic Nymphing by George Daniels. Highly recommended to me, and I have to agree/pay it forward! Also have (only read about half) Prospecting for Trout.

And dry fire. This book has a lot of great drills and general pistol shooting advice.

I have the Handbook of Hatches, but I did not like the way it was organized. I'm not sure if subsequent editions are better.

The ones I always suggest are Way of the Warrior, 400 Things Cops Know and then pick up a book on shooting techniques. I recommend Combat Shooting by Massad Ayoob. Another one is Verbal Judo, though I haven't read it yet.

/u/FlynnRetriever I'm going to tag you too so you definitely see this because I looked up links and everything for you fam.

Fishing For Dummies

Very well written, funny, and most of all incredibly informative about all things fishing. It was kind of a gag gift but I learned a lot, and it's fifteen bucks.

Buy, read, and apply Skills & Drills and Dry-Fire Training.

https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Fire-Training-Practical-Pistol-Shooter/dp/1497319633

Soft is a relative term. As for literature you can try looking up this book in the library. I've not read through this particular one so I wouldn't say buy it.

> I'm curious to know if they are worth the money.

They work. As does Refinement and Repetition, the Ben Stoeger book, the SIRT pistol, and many other products.

The critical part isn't the fancy book/tool/gizmo that gets you do to the regular practice of 15-minutes per day, 5-6 days per week. The critical part is doing the 15-minutes-per-day of dry practice.

Two-handed frontal targets. Draw and fire. Turn, draw and fire. Step and fire. Left-hand only. Seated (including seatbelt) draw. Etc. Etc. 15-minutes per day.