Reddit mentions: The best jewelry diamond & gold testers

First off, I'm going to define some terms to make sure we're on the same side when it comes to the word "artificial".

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Gemstones (rare, pretty looking rocks like diamonds, sapphires, rubies, etc) are be categorized this way:

• Natural - came out of the ground, cut to look nice and sold pretty much as it (except for being cut)
  
• Genuine - came out of the ground, treated in some way (like adding color improvement), cut, and sold
  
• Synthetic - made in a lab, but chemically the exact same structure as the gemstone that came out of the ground, STILL A REAL DIAMOND! JUST DIDN'T COME OUT OF THE GROUND, still very valuable, but about 25% less than natural diamond
  
• Imitation - fake gemstones, (made from glass, cubic zirconia, plastic, etc.) has very low actual value, still legal to sell as long as you tell the customer it is imitation
  
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  Ways you can tell cubic zirconia from a natural or synthetic diamond:
  
  

1. It will not be as hard as a real
   
2. It will not have the same sparkle when you shine a light on it
   
3. It will look completely flawless (real diamonds are not)
   
4. It will usually be completely colorless (real diamonds are not)
   
5. If someone is trying to pass it off as real, they will usually sell it below market value
   
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   Ways you can tell a natural diamond from a synthetic, this is a lot harder and you could not know for sure
   
   using the naked eye. Synthetic diamonds will be nearly flawless in inclusions (little imperfections in the structure) ,
   
   and color. But still, some natural diamonds are like this.
   
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   The only way to know for sure is to have it sent to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) for analysis. They can usually tell by looking at the color and inclusions in the diamond. In addition, synthetic diamonds are tiny etchings on them that are invisible to the naked eye saying that they are synthetic. You need special tools to see this though. Also, synthetic diamonds are categorized.
   
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   tl;dr: You can't tell a lab grown diamond by yourself. You have to have it sent off to be looked at. However, you can usually tell a cubic zirconia by yourself if you know what to look for.
   
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   Forgot to mention, another way a consumer can easily tell a real diamond from cubic zirconia is by using a diamond tester: https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Accuracy-Professional-Jeweler-Selector/dp/B009H4WGWK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=diamonds+tester&qid=1556744168&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spell

Sorry it took so long, I don't hang out here much ... :-)

Scanner Bed glass - Yeah, I tried glass from a picture (the frame and pic were just junk), but it wasn't level and not very thick, so that didn't work well. I got pretty jazzed when I realized I had a dead flat piece of glass sitting in the corner of my office! One of those "OH!" moments, LOL.

Here's the mounting plate I printed from Thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2230682 (Universal Hotbed Mosfet Mount).

The install instructions come with the unit, but here's the low-down:

It's basically simple:
1.Disconnect from AC mains! (after you disconnect, turn the power switch ON for 20 seconds, THEN BACK OFF. LEAVE UNPLUGGED!). Do this BEFORE you open the control box!!

2.Next you disconnect the bed wires from the current PCB, and connect them to the output of the new board. (Labeled "Hot Bed")

3.Then you connect the input of the board to the original connection points on the main PCB. Mine came with the wires. (Labeled "Control In")

4.Now you have to make some leads for power. This is the only "tricky" part, and if you don't immediately know how, get someone else to do it that's electrically savvy! Use 4 spade terminals and 14 gauge wire. DON'T USE SMALLER WIRE, IT'S A LOT OF CURRENT. Some people say 12ga (heavier), but it's a short run, 14ga is fine.

5.Connect your new leads to the power supply's 12V output, be sure to get polarity right, and connect to new MOSFET PCB. (Labeled "DC IN").

Tip: Personally, on ALL connections below 200 volts, I always use a little DeoxIT on the connections. It improves conductivity without being a "short" hazard, and protects against oxidation of the connects. Something that's a problem in hot electronics boxes.

Don't go overboard! Just enough to dampen the connection, NOT wet!
Here's the one I use most times (there's one specifically for gold connections, different formula):
https://smile.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002BBVN2&pd_rd_r=WGKXZGQG9QJK3PKPYGSJ&pd_rd_w=dQcRF&pd_rd_wg=BbLju&psc=1&refRID=WGKXZGQG9QJK3PKPYGSJ

----(REGULAR FORMULA ABOVE)

And here's the Gold contacts one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A7CYG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this stuff on EVERYTHING that has electrical contacts. No more slapping the remote control because the batteries have a bad connection, LOL! Again, be sparing with it, wipe the brush off WELL before applying, you don't want running liquid, just a very light dampening of the contacts.

Magic stuff - all the "Roadies" for the major touring bands use it by the case. Don't want to be the guy to to track down a "Hum" in two miles of cables with 15 minutes to showtime for The Rolling Stones, eh? Expensive stuff, worth EVERY cent.
Have fun!
PuterPro

If you're curious and think they could be bands, I recommend getting an inexpensive metals testing kit from some place like amazon If you want to search for yourself: Precious Metals Testing Kit Silver, Platinum, 10k 14k 18k 22k Gold Tests Plus Stone

He sounds very knowledgeable (and lucky! He must use a metal detector.)

He should have (or get) an acid test kit for precious metals online. This is one type. They also sell these kits on eBay too.

They contain a piece of slate on which to rub the metal on, leaving a streak. A drop of the acid you think is appropriate is applied to it and the reaction is matched to what the manual says it should be. I've never used one, but it seems like an interesting concept.

$8 Precious Metals Testing Kit I bought one a while back and it comes in pretty handy. Several YouTube vids on how to use.

This is the least expensive method. You can spend hundreds of dollars for electronic devices designed for testing precious metals as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Platinum-Testing-Stone-Jewelers/dp/B000OVHWLK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Precious+metal+test+kit&qid=1573313307&sr=8-3

There are kits you can buy for testing precious metals. Found one on Amazon, though I haven't personally used this one. To test, you rub the metal onto the provided block and then apply the corresponding acid. The acid will eat away at other metals and show if it isn't gold or the indicated karat.

You could always get a gold testing kit to find out what karat it is plated with.

This is the one I have RS Mizar M24 Mizar Gold Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G7OSMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UGbBDbSXP0MBK

I use DeoxIT Gold on the USB connector pin and it solved the problem.

https://www.amazon.com/DeoxIT-Gold-Brush-Contact-Conditioner/dp/B0015A7CYG/ref=sr_1_cc_8?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1550135163&sr=1-8-catcorr&keywords=deoxIT+gold

I suppose "lube" is the incorrect term. It's contact enhancer, metal conditioner, or stabilant. It keeps the both the RAM and DIMM slots from corroding and prevents heat creep which can cause data corruption and false memory failures.