Reddit mentions of 3M Plastic Tape Blue 1/4" X 36 Yards Trade;

If the wood has a decent grain that you'd like to see - dye it rather than paint. StewMac is probably your best source there.

If you want a solid color base, look into airbrush colors like the Createx Auto-Air line - you can get some fantastic metallic and iridescent colors, and they come in candy clears so you can do cool things like a sparkle base coat and shoot a transparent color coat on top and get whatever shade you want. Auto-air is water based (although there are special reducers that make it better) and you mist on light coats (then air dry with a heat gun, or heat lamps) between coats - build up slowly and don't get in a hurry.

Source for Createx Paints (you can get it elsewhere, that's just the one that was on the top of my head. Bear Air is one, just Google Createx and you should be able to find sources) - I can buy this locally at Texas Art Supply, so you may look at local art, hobby and craft supply stored depending on your market.

You can top coat Auto-Air paints with Watco Lacquer (which you can normally find at a local hardware store. If you want to spend a little more, Stewmac sells Behlen in nitro, but the differences are pretty minor and the Behlen is more expensive and harder to acquire... at any rate, I'd go for the Watco and practice a bit on scraps before shooting the finish products. It thins with off-the-shelf lacquer thinner. A light mist coat first (to give the surface a little tack and help prevent runs), a medium coat or two after about 15 minutes, then wait for the recoat window and spray fairly wet coats until you're satisfied with the depth. If you get runs,or drips, you'll need to wait a day or so and wet-sand them out (gently, you don't want to sand through the clear) then fine steel wool the entire surface, wipe it down and start again.

The biggest benefit of lacquer is that it dries super hard, and will polish to a glass-like finish with much less effort than it takes to polish urethane paints. Expect to spray anywhere from 6-10 coats, and read the can for the recoat window - if you wait too long between coats, you may need to steel wool it to break the surface so that a new coat will stick; if you do it within the recoat window, the coat will just melt into the one below. Too soon, and you risk bubbling or cloudiness of the underlying layer, as the solvents will not have a the time to flash off, and will get trapped underneath the next coat - this is "blushing" and you probably don't want that.

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Another good option (for solid colors) is the House of Kolor automotive line. The range of colors is amazing (same as above, solids, pearls, metallics and candies), and it's a catalyst hardened automotive paint, so the paint on the surface won't absorb vibrations like traditional urethane paints (like those from a rattle-can).

The downside here is, you need special reducers, hardeners, and a good quality respirator (think misting superglue into your lungs) to apply. They can be somewhat expensive once you add it all up. Also, ideally they need to be clear coated with HoK top coats, which are excellent quality, but harder to polish than lacquer. Again, expensive and time consuming, but will net you a show quality finish that will last for a lifetime.

edit: if you're doing a neck paint, do yourself a favor and investigate 3m Fine Line masking tape - best product on the market for hella clean lines...