Reddit mentions: The best tapes, adhesives & sealants

Welcome to the hobby!

1. Short answer: No. Long answer: -ish, but mostly no. DIfferent sub-factions have access to different tactics, stratagems, and units, but no-one worth playing with is going to fault you for running your red painted marines as Ultramarines or vice versa.
   
   
2. I recommend this brand/style of paint set If you keep your focus small, these paints will last you a long time. For washes, I recommend this and this to start. Using a spray can from Army painter is also an easy way to get your base coat down. Brushes are a tricky thing to recommend. Some of the best miniature painters in the world use the cheapest brushes so there's no way to make a solid recommendation. FWIW, I've used the citadel (point wouldn't keep), army painter (too soft), and vallejo brushes and prefer that latter far more.
   
   
3. Generally, 2 thin coats. It can be more with lower pigmented paints (like Reaper) or if you're trying to paint a lighter color on a dark undercoat. As mentioned above, you can also use army painter rattle cans to do your undercoat. Then they're just detail work and a wash away from "table top standard".
   
   
4. Youtube is full of great hobby videos. This video has a good run down of some common and uncommon brands of paint. They also have a useful video for washes.
   
   
5. Variable. Beginners will always take longer. Some minis are more complicated than others. Some may require extra steps like washing before assembly. For plastic models [this](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G?aaxitk=yw87pCjpm4VEKpuh.qGtFQ&pd_rd_i=B003Y49R7G&pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&hsa_cr_id=6960164520701&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=Loctite%20Ultra%20Gel%20Control%20Super%20Glue%204-Gram%20(1363589) is a great glue. Spraying on your base coat will definitely speed things up, but the more detailed a model is, the longer it will take. Some people even drill holes and glue in magnets so the can swap weapons around on their minis.
   
   
6. Yes, but I really would advise against starting with Dark Imperium. It's a good deal if you are intent on getting into full army battles and you know you'll make use of both factions/be able to sell one. Kill Team is a better entry point because the only investment in plastic crack you need to make is one box of troops for your preferred faction. It will also give you a feel for the rules and if this is a game you like enough to invest in.
   
   One more thing: terrain makes games of 40K great, but buying manufactured terrain can be very expensive. I recommend buying a double sided battle mat made of mousepad material. These are good mats in the US/Canada and these are good in the EU. As for your large, line of sight blocking terrain, I recommend...building it yourself. Wyloch's Armory is an excellent place to start with crafting your own terrain.
   
   I hope this helps, and if you have more questions, please feel free to ask.

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

I agree I wasn’t to impressed with that orange that was shipped with the machine the quality of the material was just bad and never printed well. Oddly enough that seems to be the popular color when I do token gifts for the different holidays like Easter and such. I should order a wider range of colors as I always get asked if you have x color and I don’t.

As for storage I just went into Walmart and bought a simple food vacuum sealer and will just do a run when I have multiple spools open. I never thought of a ziplock bag I would assume if you could get it airtight it should work but even short term I would think it would work. Those storage bins I agree takes up way to much room so I never thought of them.

Now air quality has always been a question many ask and as far as PLA the general consensus is that it’s safe and should be non toxic. Now ABS that is a different thing that is toxic and depending on the brand just smells awful so that is something you need to vent the room. Some people will install air filters on their enclosures when they print that stuff. As far as all the other materials types I am not sure. I got a spool of carbon fiber and PETG but have yet to print with it. The wood pla I did print with had a little smell to it but I think was more from the sawdust than anything else. This glow in the dark dark material I’m trying out this week seems fine as well as far as I can tell. Guess it all depends on what chemical they use to make this stuff.

Let’s see for materials I got right now I have a roll of glow in the dark, carbon fiber, wood pla, pc-max white , black petg, and for pla I got black (multiple), white (multiple), red, blue, silver, gold, transparent neon yellow, and then a couple spools of abs I got free that will most likely never be used. Well I got that orange to but I basically don’t talk about it as I just hate the quality it prints at so it’s most likely just going to be be tossed at some point.

As far as what I print it’s basically what ever I find that I think would be fun to print with. Sort of similar with my color choices. I try and do something fun for the holidays as token gifts and they generally are a hit. Once I get enough time to learn fusion360 I do plan to create my own models just never feels like I got the time to.


So figured I list some things I bought/printed to use with my printer.

Thingiverse.com/thing:647425

• this is a set of stackable storage bins. I scaled them up going almost the full build plate on the length and width and just upped the height a little. I found these useful for multiple part prints as I can throw the pieces in them and keep them all in one place.
  
  Flesh cutters
  
• this it just handy if you need to trim a brim off a print
  
  Hobby knife
  
• this is a similar purpose as the flesh cutters just for when I need to trim something off a model
  
  Needle nose pliers
  
• just overall handy to have on hand
  
  Dremel
  
• this isn’t used much but I found it handy a couple times if I need to sand/cut a large piece off a print.
  
  Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Glue. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
• this is just awesome to have when you want to glue parts together. It sets in seconds and it’s a strong bond.
  
  91% isopropyl alcohol
  
• this is handy for wiping off your bed before a print or just when ever you are having surface problems. I was using cotton swabs like you would use to remove makeup but lately I been using microfiber cloths and they work just as good.
  
  Stainless steel ruler
  
• I picked up a 12” one that has mm on it and just handy to have
  
  Blue painters tape
  
• this has come in handy for the times when prints don’t want to stick and for when I paint the prints
  
  Adjustable wrench
  
• this is great when you need to change nozzles on the printer as you can use it to hold the heat sink
  
  Socket set
  
• this is also for changing the nozzle just easier to prevent yourself from being burned just don’t over tighten the nozzle
  
  Digital caliper
  
• if you are going to make your own models this is just a must.
  
  Small file
  
• I bought a set of small files so I can sand off burs or other defects on overhangs and bridges. This is the set I bought but just what I thought would work.
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRCZKIX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Head lamp and small flashlight
  
• I don’t use these very often but I sometimes use the flashlight for seeing the first layer better and the head lamp is just handy when working on the printer so you have that extra light but not having to hold a flashlight.
  
  Can of compressed air
  
• just handy for removing dust or other material from the fans
  
  As for painting I bought a airbrush and such I don’t paint very often but maybe more in the future so I just have some basic stuff you buy with that. Sand paper in different grits, small paint brushes, paints, primer and so forth.
  
  Oh and never use acetone on your print bed it just dissolves the bed surface they use with there printer and destroys it.
  
  For oil I just been using a drop every now and then of some all purpose machine oil that I bought for the sowing machine and it’s worked fine. Little goes a long ways just cover your build plate before applying to keep any from dripping down. As for grease I don’t know I never used any and not sure what to suggest.
  
  But that’s basically what I got around my printer outside of the set of tools that came with the printer. It’s all stuff that at one point in time I found useful. Well that and a small trash can for all the scrap material from prints.
  At some point I want to design my own desktop organizer I know people got designs for them but I just want something personal.

I love them. Bought one new from Newegg on sale for $350 and one from Acer recertified for $280 (which is exactly what this thread is of). They're super smooth if you've got a good AMD card. Even a strong Nvidia card will look great, but won't be able to utilize the freesync like an AMD card could. I've used this copy/pasta in other posts about this monitor, so here it is again.

 

I used this guy's Amazon tutorial on how to put the adapter on, although I got the non-quick set version that comes in seperate tubes.

These are the items I purchased:

• VESA adapter, almost twice as strong as the quick-set.
  
  
• This exact JB Weld, although I got mine from the local Lowe's.
  
  
• Monitor Mount, I went single mount over double, so I could have more freedom of placement.
  
  Here are the pics of my setup. Please note, I waited a full 24 hours before mounting them. I know people get antsy, but just wait!!! Also, when adjusting the monitors for the first time, don't use too much torque, or you might detach the adapter from the monitor. The scratch marks you see on the back of the monitor, next to the adapter are where I sanded it down. I don't care about the way it looks, since my desk is against a wall. You can probably be a bit more careful if you actually care about the looks. I also sanded off the paint from the adapters so I can get good contact between the rough plastic surface and the bare steel plate. The screws that came with the adapters, as long as I washered them out a little, were perfectly fine to use.
  
  There are still some small adjustments I need to make to the way they are lined up, but this is pretty much 99% done. I highly recommend anyone looking for more desk space to give this a shot.

are you talking about doing a full epoxy bar-top like finish, as in something like this. where you want a glass/plastic type look? Generally speaking as long as you follow the mixing instructions to the detail they aren't that hard, biggest thing that can happen is you'll get bubbles as the product cures. I wouldn't recomend using just the bartop stuff for the entire coat, maybe look into putting a coat or two of varnish, or more of a penetrating epoxy resin to seal it first. I think this can also help reduce the air bubbles. Regardless though on something this big you're going to get bubbles, so you get some kind of torch like this and go over the top with it as the epoxy drys.

For these type of glass/bartop look I prefer 2k poly as it can be sprayed and adding multiple coats is easy, stuff can be pretty pricey, but is cheaper if you are producing a lot of stuff for a big job rather than mixing up a bunch of epoxy. The fact that you can do multiple coats easily adds for more options in regards to glossy/sheen (they offer it from matte to gloss like any normal poly).

Now if the epoxy is for filling voids you want more of a structural epoxy (although I guess you could just fill a big void with the tabletop stuff, i've never tried), like a West systems or T-88. fill it a bit over the top, if you have bubbles getting trapped use heat or just do the large voids in multiple pours, bubbles usually congregate to the edge and often times just mixing it a bit more will get rid of it. One's like west system are nice because of their pumps that measure out the right ratio from the hardener and resin, easy to add color if you want, and after sanding it takes a finish fine and becomes clear again.

Those are generally the main applications of epoxies. reason I mentioned using 2k was because if you just want really durable finish because it will take a lot of abuse, there are other options. Also if you do want that plastic bartop, super high gloss look there are other methods out there such as just buffing a higher gloss varnish up through the grits, you don't have to deal with mixing or anything, can usually be applied easier with a brush. General finishes makes a bunch of topcoats that can be sanding, they have a high performance one that supposedly is pretty close to a 2k poly/conversion varnish, but you don't have to do any mixing and it can be applied by hand, although I've never tried it. I use their enduro-var water based urethane for a lot of residential jobs and get get a pretty gloss like look by buffing it up.

The size itself is great. You may have a bit of trouble furnishing it, though. For depth of bedding, you could probably add some simple "tubs" like cardboard boxes with the top cut off or those inexpensive sterilite shoe boxes. Hamsters need about 3-4 inches of deep bedding, but they really only need it for nest, a few fun tunnels, and food storage. A couple hundred square inches of deep bedding with more shallow bedding in other places would be fine.

The ramp is a bit steep, and would be unusable for a sick or old hamster, but you could just replace it with a longer board and glue down some coarse sandpaper for grip.

Secure the top with something better than gravity. Hamsters can lift quite a bit with their wedge-shaped heads. I'd screw a pair of "screw eyes" or hooks onto each front corner and use reusable zip ties to hold it secure. Easy, strong, and cheap.

With wood, there's a chance that a determined hamster could chew a hole through it if they can get a good purchase to start chewing from. The back looks especially susceptible because it seems like masonite or some similar fiberboard. Check it every few days. If you see a danger spot, you can just cover it with aluminum flashing. It's basically super thick aluminum foil for waterproofing the edges and corners of roofing. You can cut it with scissors and bend it to fit nicely on weird shapes. Attach it with cheapo silicone caulk for a bond that will last decades. Aluminum and caulk tube are just a few dollars each. Caulk gun may run you around $10 if you don't have one. But you probably know someone you can borrow from.

Put food and water on both levels because if your hamster gets hurt or sick, you want them to have it. They may be stuck on one floor while they wait for you to notice they have an issue.

Edit: I looked at the reviews by users on amazon, and it looks like this particular hutch may not be worth the money. 170 beaver dollars is too much to spend on something that may not fit together well. With that budget, you can get a 40-gallon breeder aquarium and a nice quality wire mesh lid for it. The floorspace on one of those is wonderful, the bedding depth is perfect, glass is completely unchewable and easy to clean, and you'll never get better visibility for watching your hamster. Just attach water bottles to the inner surface with adhesive velcro tape. I don't trust the other brands unless I can feel them in person.

Woodworker here. It's no problem at all to repair that break and end up with a neck that's more solid than before.

You can take it to a luthier and it'll be an easy job for them, or it's a pretty easy DIY job too.

Here's what I'd do: get a bottle of CA glue (super/krazy glue), a needle-tip glue injector, a clamp (a quick clamp would be fine, or any solid clamp with padded clamping surfaces to avoid marring the neck), a wiping cloth, and acetone (paint thinner or nail polish remover).

Gently force the break open slightly, and inject CA into several locations throughout the break. (The ideal would be to get a coat of glue across the entire surface, but that's not practical in this case.) You want to work quickly, as CA has a short working time, but don't rush. Once the glue is in place, immediately apply the clamp. I'd locate it directly on the first fret so it's central on the break. If using a quick clamp, get it as tight as it goes. A screw-based clamp should only be tightened to finger tightness, as those can apply much more force than a quick clamp and you don't need a lot of clamping force in this situation. If there's any glue squeeze-out, clean it up immediately with the cloth dampened with acetone. CA glue cures very quickly, so you can remove the clamp after only 5 minutes or so. Just to be safe, I'd let it sit for a day before restringing it.

The last thing to do to make it as good as new is to repair the finish. It looks like this neck has an oiled finish, so that makes things super easy. Feel across the entire joint. If you can feel the break at all, take a piece of 220 grit sandpaper and gently sand the joint, going with the grain. It shouldn't take much effort to get it smooth. Finally, get some tung oil (make sure it's 100% tung oil, not "tung oil finish"), apply a small amount to a clean rag, and wipe a thin coat across the repaired area. Let it sit for a few hours, gently sand with fine grit sandpaper (absolutely no more coarse than 220), and repeat. I'd repeat this process for three or four coats. If you notice a different coloration on the repaired area and want to keep it even, then oil the entire neck. (Precautions for working with tung oil: work in a ventilated area, and dispose of your oily rags properly. Either burn them, or lay them out in a ventilated area (preferably outdoors) until they become hard and brittle, at which point the oil is cured and the rags can be thrown out. If thrown in the trash or balled up before the oil is cured, they can actually spontaneously ignite.)

Ok so This might get a bit long. and I apologize if you already know some of this, just being complete

tools:
I get most of this from 3-Rivers because they have everything you'll need but look elsewhere as needed. They also have some videos on there site on how to use the tools.

Taper Tool This will cut the taper for the nock and point. The 5° for the point and 11°C for the nock. Get the right size for the shaft diameter you use.
Fletching jig (answered elsewhere)
fletching glue: I use either Fletch-it or Gorilla super glue
Nock glue: same as fletching glue
Point glue: I use the Boehning Ferr-L-tight I have never had a problem with it them falling off even in the desert heat. Need a heat source; candle, alcohol lamp, etc.; to melt the glue to use. Some people use epoxy the main draw back is if you want to change or salvage points.
Something to cut the shafts to length.
Finish and or paint of your choice
pliers for putting on nocks if you use hot glue they will get hot
cup of water to cool the points when they are installed
Spine weight calculator My favorite tool for getting a starting point on the proper spine weight

components
Shafts: Lofts of good options with different properties but for simplicity right now go with Port Orford Cedar its is the cheapest option that I have found and the lightest. Pick either 5/16 or 11/32 depending on the spine weight you need.

Field Points Pick the same diameter as the shafts you selected and for simplicity go with 125 grain points. Because that is the weight that is assumed to be used in the spine weight of the shaft.

Fletching I assuming you want feather fletching if you're making wood arrows. Pick either shield or parabolic cut and the colors your want. Go with 4-5 inch long feathers.

Nocks Pick the size based on the shafts diameter and pick your color. These are the only nocks I'll use, there are others but they have never let me down.

Simplified Process
This can be done in groups just giving as doing one arrow for simplicity and once you know what your are doing some of these steps can be done in a different order

1. Straighten shaft
   
2. Cut nock (11°C) taper
   
3. apply a finish (polyurethane, Linseed oil, etc)
   
   • the cut nock taper helps if you are dipping the shafts to finish
     
   • I have had good luck rubbing on the finish with a cloth
     
   • Now would be a good time to crest (paint the shaft all fancy) and apply another coat of finish over that
     
4. cut to lenth
   
5. Cut nock taper
   
6. boil points to clean off machining oil
   
   • Yep, put them in a pot with water and a drop of detergent on the stove to clean them off. easiest way
     
7. Glue on points using hot glue (or epoxy and skip the steps below) Video from 3_rivers
   
   • get some melted glue on shaft
     
   • slide on field tip
     
   • put point over flame to melt glue and slide it on the shaft (use pliers)
     
   • Put point in cup of water to cool off.
     
8. Glue on nocks with super glue
   9 Fletch: The True Flight fletching guide does a better job of explain it than I ever could
   
   and you are done.
   
   It really is that simple. I have made (and broke) bunches of arrows so if you have questions ask away. I can elaborate on different parts if you have specific questions or wondering what to do when you get the parts in.
   
   
   
   
   
   

I run a campus makerspace with three MakerBots, and I feel your pain. It's been a year since we got them, and we've only just NOW (read: within the last month) figured out how to cut down on about 95% of the warping. Lots of the solutions here seem like they come from folks who aren't too familiar with MakerBot printers and the true shittiness of the flex build plate grip surface. For reference, our machines are used by a campus of about 10,000 students, so the machines are running 9 hours a day, every day.

First, I'd agree with some of the folks on here about throwing the machine out the window. If you're within the 30-day return window, return yours. They are absolute garbage, and if it wasn't for the $250 restocking fee that MakerBot charges after that 30 days, I'd return my three MakerBots in a heartbeat. Both the extruders and the build plates for the Replicator+ are truly awful. The proprietary MakerBot Print software leaves very little in the way of customization, so you can't really expect to even modify some of the slicer settings to test out what some of the folks in here are suggesting. At any rate, you should still print with a raft, because of the lack of a heated build plate.

MakerBot Customer Support, in their infinite wisdom, will typically recommend the following things over and over. I've spent more hours on the phone with them than hours at my job, and I'll preface this by saying none of their solutions worked in the long-term for any of our machines:

1. Blue painters tape is the go-to proposed solution by lots of folks. Don't bother, it just peels off as the plastic cools and shrinks. Likewise it scratches so easily, you end up replacing it weekly. In the specific case of MakerBot Replicator+ beds, blue painters tape doesn't stick for very long to the intentionally rough buildtak surface of the build plate, as opposed to with other smooth glass or PEI build plates.
   
2. Wiping build plates with isopropyl alcohol between prints to get rid of fingerprints and dirt. Never had a positive effect on our printed part quality.
   
3. Using helper disks is the solution most often suggested by MakerBot Support. Helper disks (referred to by someone here as "mouse ears") just warp off as the print warps, and pull the print up with them. They never worked for us, and did little to prevent warping or curling, even if we placed upwards of eight helper disks around the model.
   
4. Adjusting orientation to minimize surface area sticking to the build plate. On your model, try rotating it so the slimmest edge sits on the plate itself to create less surface area touching the flex build plate itself. This actually sort of works, but not consistently. Sometimes, it's not an ideal solution if propping up the model on a long edge creates tons of new supports.
   
5. Manually adjusting the z-offset height to be closer to build plate. This one, like adjusting the orientation, helped slightly but not in the long run. You're basically smushing more filament into the build plate if you lower the nozzle, which might help. But be careful not to scratch your build plate. Move down in small increments at a time and test.
   
6. Adjusting initial temperatures and slowing down the initial raft and first layer, and turning off the fan for the first few layers is another solution. Not a bad habit to get into, even if it doesn't work with MakerBot printers. Set the initial fan speed from 100% to 0%.
   
7. Avoiding twisting the flex build plates at all, in order to prevent hard-to-detect warping effects. These plates were supposed to be a novel, flexible way to remove printed parts but they have a tendency become permanently warped over time, leading to uneven build plate surfaces. Instead, use a spatula carefully and don't put too much force at all on the build plate.
   
8. Replacing the build plate entirely. A manager at MakerBot admitted over the phone that they ended up having no idea that the flex build plates were so bad, and warped so readily, and he said that they were slowly learning that the build plates were essentially a "consumable" just like filament. Meaning you can expect that if you're twisting them (even a little) to remove prints, you'll be replacing that flex build plate regularly. Another gold star for the MakerBot equipment quality control department.
   
   
   Now, the solution that worked miracles: try buying gaffer's tape. Another redditor recommended it, and we purchased this gaffer's tape. Since then, not a single print has failed due to warping issues. We can spread objects across the build plate with little regard for orientation or arrangement without much issue. Granted, on extremely large prints that take up the entire print volume, we might see a slight (maybe 5% at the corner, warping up about 1 or 2mm from the plate) warping issue, but it's nearly perfect compared to before. The same gaffer's tape strips I placed down for the very first test at the beginning of April are still sitting without a scratch on the build plates, so you can bet it doesn't peel or get scratched up easily either.
   
   I can't understate the amazing value of gaffer's tape.

A lame humor response I suppose....never mind. I was only suggesting this nice servo as the ultimate pipe hitter. "Fucking around" means to me buying only a slightly better servo than you currently have now while hoping that it will be enough. Then you get it and you wish that you had not wasted time and effort on it. Then you get a slightly better one again in the hopes of the same thing...so on and so forth. My attempt at a humorous reply was to quit fucking around with all that shit and get this "mean as hell" servo and be "done fucking around"

^

Does your BEC output 8.4 volts? If not, you won't be getting the most out of the KD1. It stands up to reason that you should not run a 7.4 volt servo on 8.4 volts if you want it last.

^

Now "spec shopping" can be problematic. People have been doing this forever with most all kinds of merchandise. Its Marketing. The problem here is determining a common metric among brands and lines within brands. Does a reliable metric among all servos exist? ?? Who says .08s/60 degrees and 347oz-in is even accurate? Are those readings for the whole arch? Will the servo be able to hit 347oz-in while 2/3s of the way into a rotation? Does it get hot and does the torque go down with rising heat? Perhaps the equipment used to make those measurements is off a bit to inflate the "specs"? I have so many questions here?? Marketing shenanigans have been going on as long as markets have existed. I like my KD1s because they work well for me. They have no equal in my opinion. I'm too old to jack around with marketing nonsense.

^

I have been playing with RC since 1986 and my "fucking around" days are long gone. Say I wanna build an RC model, I now only purchase enthusiast level products. The servo I mentioned is such a device. It is not cheap, but is anything high end cheap? Do you need a top end servo for your vehicle, probably not. Would you want one? Who wouldn't? Can you afford it? ??

^

My KD1s have amazing holding power. They absolutely stay where they're told through the arch. Its CPU is extremely capable and the coding for this servo is second to none. Now, its algorithms are optimized for heli cyclic duty, but this actually seems to me to translate to surface steering use very well.

^

I've never owned a Savox servo so I can not attest to their quality. As far as the Xpert being waterproof, I cannot say. It is a heli servo and flying a heli in the rain isn't likely a good idea. It also isn't advertised as waterproof. I've gotten my xpert servos wet ripping up dew covered grass and no issues so far ?? You can purchase a bottle of silicone conformal coating I waterproof circuit boards with this stuff all the time. Would it work on a servo? ??

^

Being concerned about this waterproof issue, an advertised as a "car" servo with claims of waterproof might be in order here. Brushless is indeed the new hotness in servos these days. Most higher end servos nowadays are "digital" too.

^

Perhaps instead of "spec shopping" utilize the gifts of modern technology and see what others have done. Don't reinvent the wheel here. As I'm sure you already know, online videos can be pretty nice for seeing what's out there. Better yet find a local RC club or track. Speak to the people there and ask what they have.

^

I used to ride the brand loyalty wagon all around. I was huge into Asian RC radios and servos. I never had a bad Hitec, Futaba, Airtronics, KO Propo or JR servo. I still have vehicles with those servos in them right now.

if you're new and you just want an easy kit:



field manual with pictures if you're really new to AR's something like this is super valuable to have.

Otis Cleaning Kit includes everything you need to clean it.



solvent You probably don't need a solvent on a new rifle but its damn handy to have around. this stuff is for ultra deep cleaning.



Lube Everyone has their favorite Lube, mine is ballistol, you can dump it on pretty much everything, and it makes it work together smoothly



scrapper for when your bolt carrier group gets all fuckered.



EDIT: almost forgot, you're def going to want one of these puppies too, a chamber brush


Cleaning tools usually come down to personal preference, cost, and how effective you can use them to keep your gun rust free and preforming well. I have had a great experience with all the tools i linked, and have used them to keep my AR 15 clean and functioning for a few thousand rounds. I think the largest benefit to this set up is that all these tools will easily fit inside of any range bag.



Have a good one and keep shooting!

Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.

SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.

Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ

~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.

Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J000AA-Master-Feeler/dp/B001HWDOK8/

My bed leveling process is kinda like this:

• Set the Z=0 spot, should be where you feel friction when pulling a single, blank piece of printer paper between the nozzle and print bed.
  
  
• Edit the radius of swing in the EEPROM settings per the instructions (I missed this the first time through).
  
  
• Setup and run the tower calibration script.
  
  
• Figure out what the gap is for the central point with the feeler gages; mine was between .006" and .007" (.006" fit, .007" didn't).
  
  
• Now use those "Go" and "No-Go" gages to check the three tower points.
  
  
• If you need to adjust all three towers in the same direction, change the EEPROM radius instead, 0.2 steps.
  
  
• Every few tower calibration runs, re-calibrate the Z=0 point. It will shift as you move screws and change EEPROM settings.
  
  Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.
  
  Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.
  
  Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.
  
  I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:
  
  
• Extrusion Multiplier
  
• Retraction Settings
  
• Speed
  
• Infill, Outline Overlap
  
• Printing temp
  
• etcetcetc
  
  ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.
  
  Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.
  
  Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:
  
  
• Hot end, high-current lines
  
• Crimp tool
  
• 1 2 3 4 for the lower-current fan lines and thermistor lines.
  
  That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.
  
  ... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?

As other people said, spraying on a coat or fifteen might work.


But I think the best option (at least in terms of quality) is gonna be to make a mold one way or another. That's pretty difficult to do with paper, since it's
A: Not totally sealed, so the mold material can get inside and completely ruin the mold.
2: It's not waterproof so it can get just ruined by the liquid in your mold material of choice.
III: Some molds get extremely hot when they're curing, which can damage the mold. And
four: paper doesn't hold up well under weight so you'd be hard pressed to make a two-sided mold that wasn't awful, meaning you could only have something with one totally flat side.


I think the best option would be to find some kind of spray layer that you can apply safely (or paper mache, I've heard that works pretty well at improving structural integrity) and beef up the object with that first, then make a mold of that. Another idea I've toyed with before but never tried was to reinforce the model from the inside. My plan was to go with foam crack sealant, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet.


Alternatively, get yourself some styrene sheets and make it out of those. They're really pretty excelent for model building if you have the patience and care to cut out the sections. I'd suggest cutting out all the external shapes (IE not the internal tabs or anything) from a papercraft model out of the styrene, just a bit oversized, then assembling the papercraft model.


You could then use the model as a reference for how to assemble the styrene (using this glue to seal them together. If you hold it in place for a good couple minutes or have an internal support of some kind, it'll hold its shape remarkably well.) Once it's assembled it'll be pretty damn sturdy, and you can clean up any rough edges with some sanding and fill any gaps with a bit more glue and some scrap styrene slivers. Then you have either a pretty decent hard plastic toy right there, or you can make a mold of it if you want a soft kinda toy of some kind.


Hope that helps!

I've tried some variations myself, and usually I simply revert to printing upright. The biggest issue I have with this is snapping off a piece while removing supports.

Splitting a figure in half does produce nice-looking results, but they never seem to fit back together nicely once printed. It took a while to find a good glue (I'm mostly using gorilla glue now), and I would have had to use green stuff to seal the gaps. All-in-all a lot of work, and it just seemed easier to bring the STL into MeshMixer and inflate it a little to make it a stronger print so that removing supports wouldn't break it as easily.

I'm very curious about printing miniatures on their back, though... that might work great. Will have to try.

This sounds like it might be a case of 'bit off more than I can chew' syndrome, but advice is free. Take it or leave it.

It's not 2 types of resins. It's resin and a hardener. Most modern resins try to make this fairly easy and do a 1 to 1 ratio. This is the chemical 'magic' that makes the liquid harden. As soon as you mix them you have a ticking clock for it to begin to harden, then once hardened, curing fully. Before you mix the two, you can mostly take as long as you want to prep.

Certain resins like Bondo Fiberglass resin use a liquid hardener that you have to measure out and drop into the resin itself. Most modern epoxy style hardeners have simplified the process as described above.

Anyway, depending on the type of wood it might be smarter to stabilize the wood itself under vacuum if possible.
Cactus juice seems to be the standard for this stuff and it does seem to be so for good reasons.

https://www.turntex.com/product/cactus-juice-resin-and-dyes

It's a hardened-upon-temperature resin so you can completely fill the pores of the wood or item, draw out all air bubbles under vacuum and bake at the right temp to stabilize the wood itself.

This has the advantage of making the wood permanently how you want it. You can also pour resin after it's cured if you so choose to make a finished smoothed surface.

I've been looking at a project that requires a good clear resin for a chair and for the price point this seems to be quite reasonable. I do not have any experience with this material yet, but there's a lot of reviews of it. I will say you need to follow instructions about a seal coat.

https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01LYK2NAG

Hope that helps. There's a lot of Youtube videos out there showing off how to do some of these things.

You may have luck with an impact screw driver like this, but you may want to start by adding a small amount of penetrating lubricant like this. Safety is a big deal with a panel, so either have the meter removed while you work on it, or be extremely careful while you work. If the money isn't a huge issue it would be worth swaping that federal pacific panel out for something newer and more safe if possible. Best of luck to you.

Easiest way to fix it. Go to wal-mart or target and buy this or order it from amazon. clean the edges and follow the directions. works perfectly. I did this for 3 of my pieces that broke. It's very clean and will be as good as new. Make sure you don't overapply it so that it oozes out inside. Might be bad for the downstem. It's the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Best of luck! toke on

Edit: Epoxy does not melt or dissolve by acetone so you can clean it with acetone after fixing it too! Source
>There are two broad classes of plastics, thermosets and thermoplastics. A thermoplastic can readily be dissolved or melted, while a thermoset cures and changes. Once cured, it forms a tough, crosslinked network which resists solvents and will degrade instead of melting. Epoxy is a thermoset. The advice to trim or slice it off is good. Solvents like acetone or whatever, unless extremely powerful and dangerous, will have little effect on a cured epoxy. Things that easily swell and dissolve epoxies will do the same with rubber or plastic gloves or portions of your anatomy.

Most of my learning has come from just working with it, I wish I had some better resources for you. I'd suggest checking out youtube but I dont have specific links. The stuff that I usually get has brand names of either "hyzod" (has a picture of a rhino on it), makrolon, and bayer (has the same bayer logo as the pharmaceutical pills).

Regarding rigidity, i'm using 1/2", so yes its quite stiff. Thinner pieces, say 1/8" or even thinner, is somewhat flexible. The material itself is probably about the hardness of PVC, probably slightly softer.

Bonding. There's the rub. You can buy different glues for it, in different thicknesses:

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC-Medium/dp/B005ZH31W2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517550935&sr=8-5&keywords=acrylic+glue

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517550935&sr=8-3&keywords=acrylic+glue

Its honestly more of a "weld" than anything. the water thin stuff (first link) works great, and works FAST, but your joint better be perfect. I use the "fast set" stuff, and initial bonding occurrs within 10 seconds. They even make "very fast" set, i can't imagine how quickly you'd have to work with that stuff. I apply it with a syringe that I got from my dentist. It has taken me a lot of practice to get to a decent level. Don't plan on your joints being optical grade by any means.
Its worth noting that the stuff I get has a scratch resistant coating on it, and the glue WILL NOT WORK on the coating. You have to cut it off with a dado etc.

The stuff is awesome though once you get used to working with it. tools MUST be sharp or it will melt.

If you're bored, check out a few other things I've made with it:

https://imgur.com/gallery/pntR7

https://imgur.com/gallery/1Sv4G

I prefer to cover the bottom of the pedals with gaffer tape — there are YouTube videos (which is how I found out about this) but I do it a little differently:

1. Take off the bottom plate of the pedal
   
2. Cover the outside bottom plate with gaffer tape from side to side (left/right, not top to bottom) so that you have about 1/8” or so that wraps around to the inside of the bottom plate.
   
3. For a typical Boss-size pedal, you’ll need a bit more than two strips so for best results start at the middle and then do top and bottom overlapping with the first piece of tape.
   
4. If there is a battery door on the bottom, leave a space for it (unless you’re 100% sure you’ll never use a battery)
   
5. I’ve found that some mini pedals (Mooer) it’s virtually impossible to get the bottom plate off. For any pedal it is possible to wrap the tape around the outside but putting it on the bottom plate gets better results because the pressure of the plate against the enclosure fights against the tape coming off.
   
6. Now the tape gives you a very flat, clean surface for the velcro
   
7. I always use brand-name industrial velcro. I don’t wait days but I do let it sit for a while (20-30 minutes) before starting to use it.
   
8. People have lots of opinions about what size/shape velcro to put on the bottom of the pedal. For most standard size pedals I put a single strip of 2” hook side that runs the entire length of the pedal top to bottom (leaving about 1/8” margin at each end) — although this makes it harder to get the pedal off the board, the velcro actually stays on the pedal better for the same reason that it stays on the board better if you use a single long strip from end to end — as you pull to detach the pedal, the unattached portions of the velcro strip keep the velcro from pulling off at the tension point.
   
   Edit: the gaffer tape should come off clean in most cases so this is also a great way to attach velcro to new/mint pedals and be able to easily get it off later when you want to sell but leave the pedal in mint condition.

That is also my general understanding of how to ventilate.

If your winter temps don't drop below freezing, I believe you can vent year around (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here), but closing off the vents in cold weather doesn't just protect your pipes, it helps cut down on your heating bill a tad (but probably not by much really since the R value of a foundation is fairly low).

As far as getting your current vents to work, I have used liquid wrench penetrating oil and achieved great results and I haven't tried it but have heard great things about Kroil.

In your case, I think that you REALLY need to get down a vapor barrier under your house--that will cut down on the stale smell, and I am pretty sure it also reduces exposure to radon (if you are at any risk).

This video does a good job of showing a well executed install of vapor barrier.

Thanks! I'm a home user, and yes I meant 200kg force (Ebay sells them for about £40).

> Ok so to answer your question: you could wrap it in a rubber mold (which you can paint on in layers)

Any high rated product from Amazon.co.uk you can recommend? How about something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastidip-Plastic-Rubber-Paint-400ml/dp/B0006SU3QW

Also maybe this? http://www.amazon.co.uk/250mls-Liquid-Latex-Mold-Special/dp/B004FPMN4C

I think the idea with this second one is to dip objects in multiple times (waiting minutes or hours between each layer), and each time a layer is added. You can dip multiple times, and get it as thick as you want.

> or even glue on sheets of rubber (probably your best bet)

Again, any product page you can point me to? Hopefully, UHU all purpose glue will stick it together. This approach will look less 'clean' than the previous though...

I don't mind not using rubber by the way.

> Remember, the thicker your protective layer, the bigger your air gap, and the weaker the strength will be.

If the distance is more than a few centimetres, the force will be the same AFAIK. It's only weaker in the sense that the metal can't physically touch the actual magnet if it's got a coating.

> And as always, be careful with magnets that strong!

That's why I want to get it coated :)

How do you rate the safety of a cube versus a cylinder versus a sphere? A sphere has no sharp edges or corners, but perhaps more importantly, flat metallic objects won't have so much surface area to 'touch' the spherical surface completely (unless the object was also curved like the magnet, which is unlikely).

Not sure how easy it is to detach metal objects from a 2" diameter sphere though compared to an equivalently strong cube (about 1.6" cube).

> They are cool and fun, but things go wrong very quickly in ways you will not expect.

Any stories to share? Have you ever come close to an accident?

I did this in my 2014 forester with a new Nexus 7 LTE a 3.00 Black TPU case from Amazon and some strong little magnets.

Super simple install, looks really great in person, holds on strong, and is removable if you want to still use your tablet or to remove it for security. You can keep your stock deck also!!

1. Pop the trim off around your radio
   
2. Just below the hazzard button glue 3 magnets inside next to each other right in the middle.
   
3. Glue three magnets to the back of the case on the volume button side(If you use the other side your tablet will not turn on because it will trip the magnetic switch inside the nexus)
   
4. (Optional) If you don't want the magnets to mar your dash up put little rubber feet on the back of them.
   
   I've been using this setup to "Click" my nexus 7 over my radio for 6 months now with out an issue. The three magnets hold perfectly and stay on even when taking off ramps and not so sane speeds and off roading. I've only had it fall off once when the california heat caused the little rubber feet to melt off. I fixed this with super glue and it hasn't happened again.
   
   The parts that I used
   
   Magnets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KUURP2/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Rubber feet:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBU8XLA/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Glue:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IY82FM/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Case:
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EENEE24/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   EDIT:
   The Nexus 7 also has a magnetic field sensor that you can use in Tasker to trigger when the tablet it on the dash. For mine I have it auto sense the magnets and open Car Home, and turn the screen timeout off, turn off Wifi, enable Bluetooth, and turn on GPS. Then when it's removed it closes Car Home, enables Wifi, disables bluetooth and GPS.

Build some! Get some hard plastic irrigation tubing from Lowes or Home Depot, a few connectors, and some duct tape/grip tape or sand paper. If you know someone with a saw, great, if not you'll want to get a pipe cutter. Building your own is fun and while it seems spendy, I've gotten at least 5 hoops from a roll and have been able to downsize at will. You'll probably want to tape the hoop for added weight, and while gaff tape is nice and great for grip, duct tape is a bit cheaper and does a good enough job.

Congratulations on 3 months sober, it's inspiring to hear hooping has helped!

Hello, I somewhat specialize here.

What you can do is use gaff tape to secure the phone to the headset. use it around all the edges, at your discretion. you MUST use gaff tape because it leaves very little sticky residue... some may stay because of the heat, but its very easily cleanable. The strength of duct tape without the mess.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Premium-Grade-Gaffer-Power%C2%AE/dp/B00GZE3UJ8
*This comes in many colors, even white, which may suit better to be less noticeable.

After that, you can secure the black cover plate to it to cover up the phone... if you care more about security than aesthetics, go ahead and secure the black cover plate to the headset as well with the gaff tape...

alternatively, you can configure an anti theft pull box to the phone and/or headset. anti theft kits will most likely leave some sort of mark on either device so use with caution.

http://www.cissecuritysolutions.com/Anti-Theft_Pull-Boxes.html

Premium eMTB bikes using motors like the Bosch and Yamaha are probably the most water resistant. I expect that manufacturer information will provide very accurate information about water resistance.

If they have issues about water damage they are not going to admit it, but if you look through their warranty information and see they have exceptions about water damage then it's a safe bet they know they have some issues. That's just how these sorts of things work.

More affordable ebikes like the Sondors or Crosscurrent or things of that nature are just going to be using the same sort of Chinese parts that you can get with DIY... it's just that they pick some of the better quality stuff. Check out their warranty information and see if you can find exceptions regarding water damage.

------------------------------

For DIY bikes and hub motors... Most of the time people buy the cheaper stuff that isn't really water proof. It has to do with tolerances and such things.

For example:

When motors get used they heat up and the air inside of them expands. It gets pushed out through the wires and cracks in the gaskets and such things. When they cool down then the pull air back into them. If the air is very moist then it will draw that moisture back into the motors. The air cools further in the evening, the water condenses and turns into droplets.

After a few months in very wet climates they can develop a small puddle inside of them. The steel used for magnetic steel on the rotors is particularly vulnerable to rust.

When steel rusts it expands it' original size by 7x or 10x and the rust jamming up the motor is likely the most common killer of direct drive motors outside of accidents.

People try all sorts of things to make things water proof, but often make it kinda worse. Like trying to use excess amounts of silicon to seal controllers or replace motor gaskets.

Often it's better make it easy for water to drain out of electronics then it is to try to seal it up. If you go and look at outdoor electrical enclosures quite often they put weeping holes on them to allow water to easily escape rather then trying to make them permanently water proof.


But because it's all DIY you can still put extra effort into it and make things extremely water proof. Not enough to throw the bike into the ocean for a week... but it certainly can easily withstand a few years of being outdoors 24/7 if you want.

------

Some tips:

• A simplest approach is to use dielectric grease on plugs and such.
  
  
• Motors and controllers that use HiGO connections are less likely to experience issues with water and are a sign of higher quality.
  
  
• Many type of frame-mounted battery packs can experience damaging corrosion on the battery contacts. The contacts use copper and such things, which tarnishes and builds up corrosion easily. Using water proofing spray like ACF-50 will keep them looking brand-new for years.
  
  
  and a few other things like that. Check out endless-sphere for tips.
  
  And of course there are people that take things to the extreme. Especially people that want to ride their bikes through streams and such. You can take apart a direct drive motor and spray anti-corrosion spray on it, for example. If you take apart the controller and spray conformal coating and make sure there is ways for water to escape at the lowest point in the mounted controller will make it so it can operate under water. Most of that stuff shouldn't be necessary unless you live in some seriously wet place, like parts of India or something like that.
  

On the cheap side I would use 3M Dual Lock, it's similar looking to velcro but WAY stronger. Instead of hooks and loops it uses opposing mushroom tops, the one I linked is the medium strength (250) and I think a 4-5 cm square on all four corners would be more then strong enough to hold up an A2 aluminum print (don't use too much, it is strong!). It's also nice that unlike velcro you use the same material on both sides, so you don't have to keep track of what you put on the wall or print.


A step up from that in price would be aluminum standoffs. Nicer looking, but much pricier and requires drilling a hole in the wall.

I have a sheet on both aluminum and glass. For for both I used 3M 468 adhesive. Works great, just be careful as it loves to stick to itself and once it's down you can't straighten it out.


I used this (Amazon link): [TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Ux1sxbDHBG4C0)


Make sure your build surface and PEI sheet are squeaky clean beforehand. Alcohol is your friend (rubbing, not drinking, though that's good too). Take your time laying down the adhesive to the PEI to minimize bubbles (there will be bubbles). Smooth it out as much as you can. You'll end up with a handful of larger bubbles still, but that's OK. Peel of the remaining sheet from the adhesive, and pop those suckers. I used an exacto knife and carefully scored the bubbles, then used a small piece of the discarded backing sheet to smooth them out. Now that that's done, carefully align and lay the stickified PEI sheet onto the aluminum bed. You only get one shot here, so make it work. What I did was lay one edge down and carefully push it down, keeping the farthest edge of the PEI up until the end. Take your time and keep bubbles to a minimum. Once your down, congrats. You now have a a super surface for printing.


Why all the stuff about bubble though? Well, hot air expands. This can cause minor warping of the PEI sheet as it warms up, and can mess up your first layers. You'll have some areas that might not go down smoothly, and others that the nozzle drags on. It's annoying. Trust me, I still need to redo my aluminum the right way.


Side note: if at all possible, I'd recommend getting a PEI sheet larger than your bed. Less work aligning it, then you can cut it to fit after putting it down. Drill holes through it afterwards, hell even counter sink it a bit. You'll have a nice looking print area afterwards!



...shit, time to order a 12in PEI sheet.

Use a vice if you've got one, and patience. I put the frontmost part in my Panavise, laid the stick and spring down loose, and put the other plate in. Once I had those pegs in place, i was able to get them close and shove the spring around until it all clicked together. I was lucky that three of the four pegs weren't broken, so my assembly is still pretty solid, and the back plate of the 3DS should hold it down fine, but if it was looking shaky I might try risking CA glue (superglue), just a dab on each of the posts. If you try it, be careful not to let the glue wick into anywhere that it might gum up the works, do the pegs one at a time, and make sure the whole assembly is clamped together nice and tight; it defeats the purpose of glue if it's not holding everything where it needs to go. If you've got kicker on hand, use it; I'd spritz some into a cup or something (far away from the glue!) and drip it on with a toothpick or something, so I didn't get it inside the assembly. This is one of the few times where gel CA glue isn't totally worthless, and they sell it at Walmart, so you could try that; at least then it wouldn't try to make its way inside anything. But depending on how tightly packed everything is inside the 2DS, you might be able to get away with just closing it up.

Also, when you're reinstalling the wipers, pay attention to how they need to go. The metal one goes on the bottom, then the shorter one, then the longer one. The sides of the plate are different heights, so it'll be pretty easy to figure out which one goes where. And double check that the copper contacts are going to line up with the tracks on the PCB. It'll be obvious whether the other bits are in place or not, but this is the one that could make you open it back up and redo everything.

Edit: Just got it all back together, joystick is working fine! Now it's your turn. :p

Use this connector into the port.
https://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Micro-female-extension/dp/B00HAOK7XE/ref=pd_sim_147_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00HAOK7XE&pd_rd_r=1K7Y8KM8CCG3NA9TRDK3&pd_rd_w=3MLQx&pd_rd_wg=S0wfJ&psc=1&refRID=1K7Y8KM8CCG3NA9TRDK3

Use some epoxy or gorilla glue to bead around the connector between the controller and now you have a short little dongle that weighs next to nothing hanging off but keeps the controller wireless when needed. Do the epoxy in a few coats, don't just glob it on there super thick, it takes forever to get strong then. I recomend against super glue, it will just make a mess.

You can use this to make it look prettier if you want as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-Classic-Multi-Color/dp/B008URBC9I/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GEHJJR1SV07J2VYRE363

I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/

At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).

... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.

I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.

Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.

Oh my wolf and his tiny feets haha Sorry about that! Spiders looks great though~


So, I'd go with gluing it back on or using it as a dead wolf mini. Super glue has worked swell for me when repairing minis. This has been recommended to me, and also works great. It is a bit more forgiving than super glue.

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=acrylic+cement+glue&qid=1566472844&s=gateway&sr=8-3


Cheers,

Mia Kay

DiiCooler, Z braces, thumbscrews for bed leveling, and the melzi temp fix are all common mods that I can recommend. You could also get the all Metal Hot end from Micro Swiss but I have not done this myself.

As for supplies, I would recommend getting a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive to stick it to the print bed. PEI is a great, low maintenance print surface that prints stick to very well even without any form of fixative to improve bed adhesion. If you don't go that route I would say get some buildtak to put on the print bed with washable gluestick depending on the filament you use. Basically you don't want to be printing directly on to the bed as there is a hole where the thermistor comes through.

Other than that, just get extra filament and have fun with it.

depending on how rough it feels I would suggest starting with an 80g or 100g and then finishing with 120g and 220g. You can skip the first one if it is not super rough. Get one of those sanding sponges with the different angles on them. That will be easier on you hand than just sand paper. Becasue of the shape you'll want something that you can wipe or spray on. Use 4-5 thin coats. The easiest/cheapest option would be a wipe on poly or even better an Aerosol Spar Urethane. EDIT Also, sand lightly in between coats with 220 or higher. This helps the next coat stick.

You might also consider trying to fix a few of those larger cracks by filling them in with a two part epoxy

Good luck! It will be a nice surprise for her when she returns.

Since your title specifies low cost you can save some money by using a wired lav mic like this Audio Technica or this Olympus lav mic. You simply plug it into the camera's mic input. A 3.5mm extension cable might be needed to reach the camera. Use the lav mic with an inexpensive voice recorder if you need the subject to move around. Smart phones have decent audio recording apps too. Syncing the audio in post can be a hassel so only do this if the shot requires being untethered. If you record audio with a separate recorder it helps to mark it by saying a scene number and making a clap sound so you can find it and sync it with the video editing software.

For lighting you might consider an inexpensive LED light and a second battery. Charge one battery while using the other.

I've used clamps like this and this for quick and simple mount of camera and small lights to a chair, windowsill, cupboard, etc. You can use JB Weld to put a 1/4-20 nut-coupler on the light if it doesn't have it already.

edit: I like Canon equipment and their line of Vixia Camcorders starts at around $300 and has a mic input. The lens and image stabilization gets you a nice picture compared to a camera phone or similar "cheap" camera.

IIRC Premiere has a basic mode that uses a simpler timeline more like Apple's iMovie. You can download 30 day trial versions of the latest Adobe products. Give Premiere Elements a try.

Our team uses a variety of different types: Gorilla Glue, Titebond, and more. Gorilla Glue is really good, but just be sure that you wipe off the excess or it will expand. Titebond is really reliable but it takes a very long time to dry. Zapagap is pretty pricey but it dries insanely fast and it is really strong.
Here's a link to all of the glues: 1. Gorilla Glue can be found at Home Depot 2. Titebond We put the Titebond in to smaller containers which can be found here 3. Zap a Gap
EDIT: We also use something called InstaSet Accelerator. It should be used only in emergencies along with zapagap.

My nails went to crap earlier this year, and the free edges were barely visible. I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out a way to protect my nails while they grew out. And even when they would grow out, they would break and tear again. The Sally Hansen maximum growth polish actually worked, but did nothing to strengthen my nails.

So I went the nuclear route. Using this method, it's kind of a pain, but I haven't torn or broken a nail since I've been using it. Now all of my nail free edges extend 6+mm, and they are practically bulletproof. Plus my nail polish last beyond two weeks, with zero chips. I will actually have to add polish to the inner part of my nail where it grows out a couple of times before I get tired of the color, and change it.

I use a thick super glue to adhere a silk nail wrap to my entire nail plate. I then add a second layer of silk to the very tip of my nails. This makes the nail HARD, and extremely durable, and also increases the thickness at the edge of my nail. The extra thickness, and rounded edges have eliminated inadvertently scratching myself due to the longer nails as they are no longer razor sharp.

I've then round the edge with a nail file, and wrap every coat of nail polish around the edge to the inside, so every bit of the underside of my nail is painted to match the top side of my nail. The nail polish adheres to the silk wrap many, many, many times better than it does my nail plate.

This is also a perfect way to repair a ripped, dented, or broken nail.

Gluing the silk to your nail plate is a tedious task. You don't want any of the glue to get down inside of your cuticles. The thick Super Glue does not set instantly. You have a good 20 seconds to get the silk into place and the excess glue wiped away from your cuticles before you use the accelerator to instantly set everything in place.

Regular nail polish remover will not effect the super glue/silk layer. Pure acetone will. So you can use a regular nail polish remover to remove the polish and repaint. But if you want to remove the glue/silk layer, acetone will be needed.

This is what I've been using. It's from Amazon, but you can also get the same items from Hobby Lobby. 💕E


❗❗ JUST DON'T EVER USE A THIN GLUE ❗❗


Supernail Swiss Silk Wrap Self-Adhesive Tabs, 40 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MFWH70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_poZVDb2WR7EVW

Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-pZVDbR9TGP00O

I built my own pedal board case out of plywood. In order to attach pedals, I've got one better than velcro: 3M Dual-Lock. It's incredibly strong, and survives way longer than normal velcro.

Edit: have some pictures!

• Closed
  
• Side
  
• Open
  
  Not shown is a MIDI floorboard that goes across the top-left for channel switching, etc. on my tube amp (Hughes & Kettner Swtichblade).
  
  Over the next while, I hope to see the board get smaller and smaller as I sell it off since I just got an Axe FX and don't expect to ever need another pedal again (except I'm not going to sell the Silver Bulb Overdrive Deluxe because it's great and the T-Fuzz because it's pretty rare and have you heard that thing?!).

http://imgur.com/CvSGXzO
http://imgur.com/NQiV9iz

The inside is a rat's nest that I need to fix, and I'd like to add a volume control, but it's basically a finished product. I mounted the battery and amp using 3M adhesive Dual Lock, which is great stuff (Its way better than velcro because it locks into place, whereas with velcro your component will start leaning away from the mounting surface), and way better than screws because I can remove the components quickly if need be for a quick fix. One addition I'm contemplating making is adding Dynamat, which I think might help a lot considering it's just a cheap plastic cooler instead of a real speaker box. Oh, and one other thing I need to add is something on the exterior to hold a phone/mp3 player.

I actually use these on a $40 wal-mart chair, and it's perfect.

but the way arm rests tend to be mounted on gaming chairs you may want these as they'll put them more towards where you can reach without contorting.

Hope either of these help you out :)

EDIT: I attach them using this stuff and it is amazing and lasts so much longer than regular velcro, and it's great if you might want to take off your hotas and attach it to your desk or another chair.

Depends on your desk and how permanent you want the solution for ONE layout.

My first choice would be a good cable management channel that can hold it, it's permanent while maintaining flexibility in use, and ease of access if you need to move it. something like this or like this. Depending on your desk, there may be some specifically designed for it.

After that I'd go with Velcro is a great option since it is less permanent than

Custom Screw mount is basically the last option I'd go with - it's permanent and not at all versatile, if you need a new brick you might be SOL.

I LOVE [Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue] (http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)

It is very strong and very easy to use with the squeeze control being built in to the container itself. It also dries in a couple minutes

I bought a knife for 2 bucks that was a little less rusted then that, but still very rusty. Don't forcefully open it, but if it opens without too much effort that's ok. Before opening or trying anything soak it in WD40. If you have a type of penetrating oil (like Kroil) that would be good too. Once the WD40 has gotten as much rust off as it can, you will want to take some kind of metal brush too the blade. If you have a wire brush and a drill, you can carefully try that too (just on the really bad parts). Once you've gotten it down to where you can see more metal then rust, take some #000 steel wool and some WD40 and get to work. As for the handle, I would suggest starting off with #000 or even #0000 steel wool as it is really fine and can remove the lighter rust with ease. Once you've got it de-rusted take some metal polish and a towel and get rubbing. If that isn't working fast enough, take some of the #0000 steel wool and use the metal polish with that. At this point you should have a pretty shiny knife, but there will likely still be dips in the knife with rust in them. Not a whole lot you can do about that, but hopefully the worse of it won't be on the blade (or edge of the blade). At this point you will want to clean the knife with isp alcohol to make sure no wd40 or polish is left on the knife, and then go ahead and sharpen it.

Thats great to hear! It must've still had moisture under the chips causing a short but now had time to fully dry out.


Get this stuff https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ its modified with a UV dye so you can see where its been applied. You can get a UV led Flashlight for cheap to ensure havent missed a spot.

You can coat everything, even soldering pads. if you ever need to solder anything to the board, the coating just steams away just be sure to reapply the coating in that area afterwards.

The bottle arrived the other day and I took my tinyhawk freestyle apart and desoldered the VTX (same board as the tinyhawk) to fully coat it then also added a larger capacitor. https://i.imgur.com/wYo9Laz.jpg . I did two coats then one more once everything was soldered and plugged in. I'm confident that this thing could survive a dunk in a pond now.

If it is injection molded plastic I would suggest a solvent based glue like Weld-On 4 Cement. It is very thin like water and will get get in between the plastic parts. This type of glue works by melting the plastic together, making a very strong bond with very little contact area. Apply it with a needle applicator, you can buy it in a kit like this. https://www.amazon.com/Weld-Acrylic-Plastic-Cement-Applicator/dp/B0149IG548/

Hold the button cover on and very carefully flow the solvent from the needle into the seam between the parts. Hold or gently clip (without deforming the parts) for about 5 min the allow to cure overnight.

Superglue wouldn't hold that.

Your best bets are either 5 minute epoxy, built up as a layer on the inside of the door in order to make the join stronger, or Plastic Weld which will melt the two parts back together but may discolor the clear and painted plastic.

• https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Epoxy-Minute-ounce-Syringe/dp/B001Z3C3AG
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-Plastic-Weld-applicator-Bottle/dp/B00FDFWJD8
  
  If you choose to go with the Plastic Weld, you need to be careful as it melts the plastic a bit in order to weld the two parts together. If you let it run it will melt and discolor parts you might not want it to. You should pour just a tiny bit into the cap of the bottle and then use a small natural bristle paintbrush to brush the edges of the parts with the solvent, let them sit for a few seconds and then push them together and hold them for 5 seconds until they are bonded, and then if necessary brush a little more Plastic Weld over the joint to help seal the pieces together.

This is what I use whenever a pop breaks. It works pretty good. I use it on a lot of things like acrylic, metal, wood etc. dries pretty fast also

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m6TpzbQKTCDFG

I usually use Gorilla brand super glue for plastic models. I'm sure any super glue will work well enough for a shelf model, though. Use a small amount; if you use too much it won't stick as well and will ooze out of the crack when you put it back together. I'd recommend gluing it after moving, so you're less likely to break it again. A fresh bottle always seems to be more potent than a bottle that's been sitting in a drawer for months. Also, don't eat the glue and don't glue yourself to the model. Is that everything? I think that's everything.

Gorilla 2-part Epoxy Clear

I guess you can use Super Glue if you are not comfortable with epoxy. Maybe better would be the gel type of super glue. It's just that super glue by nature is not as sturdy when it comes to "shock" strains like should it get dropped or of you slam the detolf door hard enough. Just make sure the superglue is well and dry before putting it in the detolf case as superglue has a tendency to fog up glass.

The bubbles form naturally during the bonding process; it states this on the back of the container. Here is a link to the Amazon page where I purchased the acrylic cement.

> The product you bought might call it weld, but it really, its not.

This is the same product and technique people use to build acrylic aquariums. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me.

> Why do you think all mods/pro today use rubber gasket.

Here's an acrylic reservoir made by Swiftech that is joined with cement and not gaskets.

Edit: just responding to your ninja-edit, I use Weld-On 3 because I feel the faster bonding time makes the pieces easier to work with, plus it's one of the most commonly recommended acrylic adhesives along with Weld-On 4.

My temps are fantastic.

Ambient temp of 22

CPU idle = 28

CPU load = 36

GPU idle = 29

GPU load = 38

I'm in the midwest in the states and right now there is a nice cool breeze with the windows open. The other day the ambient temp was around 28-29 so all idle/load temps were about 5 degrees more than what they are now. Nothing ever above or at 45 however (even when maxing out battlefield 4 while streaming youtube and chatting online).

The pumps and reservoirs were first held on with some screws and washers as there are plenty of holes on the side of the drive cages to attach these to. However, I noticed that this caused the drive cages to bend under he weight. So much that the drive doors would not stay shut and it was very noticeable. This was caused by a combination of my incredibly heavy glass reservoirs and the very thin drive cage material/metal.

To combat this, I used this 3m dual lock stuff which works remarkably well. It holds stronger than any simple velcro I have ever seen or used. Absolutely amazing stuff and I highly recommend it for modding. Once you join two pieces together you would swear that they are permanently glued together. I then used some zip ties and strung them from one side of the drive cage to the other (out of view and cannot be seen without opening up the drive cage doors) to prevent any more bending or bulging from the cages.

If you use washers and nuts, you will have to make sure that the head of the screw is facing the inside of the drive cage. the nut will be attached to the screw on the outside of the drive cage. This will allow the drives to still move in and out of the cage. Otherwise if your screw is protruding too far into the cage, your drives will nt be able to move in or out.

If you just want to have tentacles, well, those are pretty easy to mold from green stuff. Stick 'em on any barbarian-lookin' mini you like the best.

The glass doesn't get extremely hot, but it does get pretty warm when you're lighting the bowl, so I don't trust glues. I would use JB Weld, it's extremely strong, water resistant and heat resistant up to 500 degrees F. It won't last if you put the flame right to it, but it will easily handle the low heat from the bowl. Make sure to lather it on thick on the the broken edges, and around the outside to create a support. it won't be super clean, but if you lather on enough it can be sanded down to be smoother.

Here is a link to it on amazon. Would be happy to send an affiliate link if you like :)

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/

Seriously though, this stuff works well for me. I can fly and crash into snow with confidence. :)

Another cheap, quick solution that can look quite nice is styrene. All you need are styrene sheets, an exacto knife, a ruler, some brush-on adhesive (can be had cheaper), and a little paintbrush. Cut two pieces of styrene, hold them together, brush a little adhesive on, and there ya go. Popular with modelmakers.

It's pretty tough stuff, bonds quickly and sturdily, it's very easy to work with, and it can take filler/paint quite well if you want to get fancy.

Actually this is wrong. Aluminum is highly corrosive, which is actually a good thing, well mostly. It quickly oxidizes forming a thin "skin" that protects the underlying material from most weather and chemicals.

In the aviation world corrosion is a big concern and we generally deal with it through use of zinc-chromate primers or sometimes plating which has various approaches. You can even use wax if you really want to, think BoeSheild T-9 or ACF-50.

As for why it is good for bicycles. Probably the biggest two factors are low cost and the ease with which it can be extruded, milled and machined into usable shapes for bicycles. All things being equal if I was building a bicycle out of a metal it would be Titanium hands down. If I was building to a price point however, Aluminum wins.

I mean, can't they change their company name? I guess its probably not cheap, but then this is a problem literally because they have been too successful in their marketing

edit: Maybe I'm wrong, not an expert, but it seems to me they are in this predicament because they advertised their products as Velcro, not Velcro hook and loop.

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Strips/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006IC2L/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-6&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Black/dp/B00006RSP1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-7&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Thin-Fasteners-Tape/dp/B0013AIAQ2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-10&keywords=velcro

None of them list hook and loop anywhere, though to their credit they do list Velcro BRAND very clearly. And one of them does mention the product type as fastener. They should start advertising and packaging them as Velco brand hook and loop fasteners. That way if someone challenges their trademark in court, they can point out that every single one of their product's promotional material clearly separates the product from the company - right now, that's not clear in their own marketing (outside this video of course).

What type of glue to use always depends on what type of material you are gluing. For 3d printing it will depend on what type of filament you are printing with. I use PLA+ and have decent results with CYANOACRYLATE, commonly called CA or superglue. It works in holding things together but it does not take much force to separate the parts again.

The best glue is one that welds the two parts together, that means dissolving the PLA a little bit. The best one I have found for this is an Acrylic glue. Read all the cautions before hand as the stuff is nasty and “dries” fast. Here is what I used from Amazon.

one of my friends used clear coat to make it more shiny but I just used plastidip and then the color that I wanted and it worked pretty well

here is an amazon link to stuff we used it comes in different colors as well.

If you must use super glue, then Loctite is my favorite. However it is brittle and sometimes has problems binding to certain types of plastic.

Epoxy works much better for metal or pewter figurines. For most plastics Tenax 7r is the best.

If you use Zap a Gap or similar they have a removable tip. It seems to stay very clog free with minimal buildup on the tip. Maybe the plastic they use has something to do with it, but my bottle seems fairly clean. That and I like the Loctite control type glues which have the squeeze sides. They tend to let me keep the tip clean as no glue seems to leak out unless I squeeze them. They also have great formulas imo. Gel or liquid depending on your needs.

So. That holder doesn't seem to be the right one for that shower head.

How nice are you wanting this to look vs. the level of function vs. cost and effort you want to put in?

If you want FUNCTIONAL only... I would recommend a big-ass carabiner and some good 2-part epoxy for metal. put the carabiner on that hangar with the epoxy and let that operate as your holder from now one.

• Pros: It works. You don't have to dick with removing the current hangar and trying to find a new one.
  
  
• Cons: It will look kinda like ass.
  
  Alternative 2: Find a new showerhead mount. Look at the measurements of the products vs. those of the handle on your showerhead. Make sure it fits. Follow the instructions to mount it. TAKE SPECIAL CARE that you either use drywall anchors (which should probably come with the device), or drill it directly into a stud.
  
  
  Shower Curtain: This is a bit more difficult, because of the positioning of the window and the sink. I would recommend mounting your shower curtain from the ceiling using these. Again, use the mounting instructions that come with them. And for god's sake, when mounting into the ceiling, use drywall anchors. Past that, just get a rod and curtain.
  
  
  Tools needed for this endeavor include: Small batter operated drill/screwdriver. They are all over amazon for <$50. In fact, if you are TRULY a beginner, here is a cool little set for you. You aren't going to be building any houses with it, but it has some basics you will need around the house. If any of these break, that shows you that you use it enough to warrant something more expensive.

I've had a few pairs of shoes do this to me, including a pair of platform Demonias. I found that epoxy (this stuff) worked really well to keep the sole on. When mine did it, only the sole came off, and the bottom part of the place where you put your foot stayed whole. Hopefully yours didn't rip or anything. If they did, I don't think epoxy will help without creating uncomfortable bumps under your feet. Good luck!

This acrylic glue is my go to. I have a 2 stage epoxy that works really good if i need something more robust, but for general use this one works great. From my understanding it kind of "melts" the plastic to create a chemical bond rather than just adhesion. Its super runny and when you first open it there is some outward pressure, so it starts oozing immediately. No biggie for me, just use caution.

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC-Medium/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1FERU4CKFPZ3&keywords=acrylic+glue&qid=1550383054&s=gateway&sprefix=acrylic+glue&sr=8-3

I use loctite super glue on pla and it works great too. Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GY-UCbGDJ010B

That is -hilarious-. I put Gorilla Glue on my wishlist 2 days ago, because I'm looking to make my own magnetic spice-jars.. SWEET! I totally don't mind either the glue, or the magnets would be awesome, or even just a gift card to start me off saving!

guerilla gorillas

Altering is something I'm really enjoying. It's nice knowing your mini is different. To answer your questions:

The most difficult part with altering the sword was making sure I didn't cut the blades incorrectly leaving them too short or long, as well as making sure they were flush. Then it's just a matter of gluing them in place. I recommend picking up Loctite Gel Superglue. I'm finding it works well with Bones figures and gives you a lot more control.

The runes were part of the new blades I cut from the Rauthuros figure. I just dry-brushed them blood red, then highlighted using an extremely small brush.

I'll set to work on pictures of a couple other figures I have here next to me and make a new post for you to check out.

I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j.9Dxb7FAEG3J

TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9DxbBW56J7Z

Do yourself a favor and use some 3M 468MP transfer tape and a piece of PEI. You'll never have to worry about adhesion again. PLA and ABS stick to it perfectly and pop off when cool without issue. I've had hundreds of prints without adhesion issues, even when my offset is way off and I'm printing at 0.4mm height instead of 0.1mm. If you want to see what it looks like, check out the post I submitted yesterday

This is the el wire- excuse mobile

Lychee Neon Light El Wire with Battery Pack, 15 Feet, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EENNHMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wb-.zbMXQ6FDS

And I'd recommend using some scotch or painting tape with a fifteen foot string to trace out the path you want to glue down. It will make it much easier, but it does take a while.

Also, use gel glue. It's shock/water proof. I'd recommend 2 of those if you're using a full face helmet

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qe-.zbFH9CXFF

Anytime! 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550 250/250 Black, 1 in x 10 ft (1 Mated Strip/Bag) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OXK1AK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FSb-Bb8T1AKGD

Sorry embedding links isn’t working for me at the moment. It’s similar to hook and loop but just holds a lot better. You don’t need much and it is very strong.

I use it for my pedals as well.

I'll definitely make a post and show it off once I'm done, I think it's going to look pretty badass if it turns out like I'm hoping.

Also just went ahead and ordered a tube of this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Z3C3AG

Not sure I trust the name as much as JB Weld or Loctite, but it supposedly dries crystal clear and I like the idea of that.

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

• The 40mm fan for the controller board: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1867169
  
• The Z-Axis rod stabilizers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1775502
  
• The zero-offset mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402
  
  (Note the above designs are all three by USWaterRockets, who seems to have exceptional engineering skills, but I haven't installed them yet. Hopefully, this weekend and I'll post results)
  
  Another one I'm considering next:
  
  
• Belt tensioners: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1697171
  
  Here is the E3D-v6 adapter I currently have on the printer:
  
• https://hackaday.io/project/12184-monoprice-mp-select-mini-e3d-hotend-adapter
  
  Note the above design is just a quick-and-dirty solution; the author even states this. It works and will get you what you need to get things going with the new head.
  
  Other upgrades I've done:
  
  
• Upgrade the firmware and set the PID values correctly to control temperature better: https://hackaday.io/project/12696/instructions
  
• Replacement filament feeder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196B285I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• PEI print surface (two parts):
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Cork insulation under print bed (I attached it using the adhesive from the above order): http://www.michaels.com/artminds-cork-roll/M10171279.html?dwvar_M10171279_color=Natural#q=cork&start=6
  
  Here's the E3D-v6 printhead I bought and it's worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4V2QEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Disclaimer: I'm new to 3D printing. This is my first printer and the learning curve is steep. I may look back on this posting in a year and think "what an idiot I was doing <this>". Take my advice with a grain of salt, as I'm muddling through this whole thing. YMMV

I have heard many good things about using that for HOTAS. I would recommend using this to secure it. I am pretty sure that the extreme pro will work with that

You could get some Sugru. Its pretty much putty but super strong. I have the same problem as you with my glasses, but I haven't gotten around to doing so. When I get a chance I'll post my results to your comment.

Superglue can be fussy stuff. Everything needs to be super clean and it's not great at filling gaps unless you use thicker glue and an accelerator. (I swear I'm not pimping for BSI, that was the first Amazon hit)

An accelerator will make superglue harden instantly, but I find the bond to be more brittle than epoxy in the end.

That's important to know about the 2-part epoxies. You'll see it rated by time. 15-minute, 30-minute, 45-minute etc.
The faster-drying epoxies give a more rigid hold and the slower ones are a little more flexible. Flexible is important for things like radio-control models that may need to survive an impact.

I never used loctite blue, unless you just mean the loctite in the blue squished casing? And no one should ever use any sort of glue as a protective coating, under any circumstances, ever. Either nail polish (cellulose based only), or conformal coating (like this stuff): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I have no comments whatsoever about nail polish or silicone coating as an IHS sealer, and I would always recommend RTV now, since I've seen how easy it is to work with if you do the very tiny dab method (and when I say tiny, I mean the bare minimum required to touch the substrate).

In general, any type of super glue is not a good idea because it is a -very- strong adhesive and can risk damaging the green substrate, as well as making delidding difficult.

The super sparse RTV method is popular now because if you apply just enough to stop the IHS from moving when you close the latch (after letting it cure in the relid kit for an hour+), it does its job and if you happen to have messed up or something, you can remove the IHS just by prying it with your nails.

I'm curious what happened, though. How did the stuff spread like that? And what happened to the die? I honestly don't understand what happened. Unless the IHS slid somehow and liquid metal contacted the super glue and reacted with it?

My friends in the UK who ride all year round, swear by something called ACF-50. You may wish to look into it.

Spray it on before exposing the bike to salt, wash it off in the spring. I haven't used it but it's supposed to be great. Paging /u/MisterShine to the red courtesy PM phone.

The one I bought has the blue and yellow separated, but it's not unlikely that it's from the same origin point. I don't buy in bulk because I really don't use a whole lot of it and I have limited hobby storage space in my apartment.

FYI, my related links on that Amazon page had this one listed which is from a good quality brand, and it's a significantly better price by weight. Generally, if an epoxy putty isn't branded by a games company, the price is more reasonable.

Green Stuff - I'm still going through this 36" roll of Kneadite. $5 more than Games Workshop's product, but 5x more putty.

Primer - Rust-Oleum Sandable Primer is my gold standard. I've used it in all seasons in Mid-West USA with no issues, and it always dries with a perfect finish.

Black wash - Nuln Oil is still my liquid talent, but for large projects I use Vallejo Black Wash. Almost twice the price of a pot of Nuln Oil, but over 8x the amount of wash. Economical for terrain pieces and large models, but not quite the same quality.

Paint - I've been hooked on Citadel paints since 3rd Edition, but I'm slowly transitioning to Vallejo and Army Painter. The latter has color-matched primer and acrylic paints, which has really saved my sanity on the large projects I typically work on.

https://www.reddit.com/r/DnDIY/comments/6x7nig/oc_acrylic_flying_miniature_stands/?st=j70mgv4s&sh=0c9743e9

I went and made a post about it, but I'll leave the reply below...



I have, I can post pictures when I get home tonight. I made 2x2 and 4x4 stands, at 2 different heights. They're supported in the corners.

The platforms are acrlyic, and I scored in a grid on the bottom side (so if need be, I could use dry-erase on the unscored side, this has never come up though... lol). The corner post is also acrylic. I purchased everything from McMaster-Carr, but you can get the same materials on Ebay for a bit cheaper, I just had a few other things I was ordering from them at the time.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#plastics/=196icwz

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504192570&sr=8-4&keywords=acrylic+glue

I sketched up a 3D model to illustrate how they're assembled. I used an acrlyic adhesive that actually melts/bonds the acrylic pieces together, so it's quite a strong connection. If I were to redo it... I'd maybe go with a 3x3 grid, with a center post, but I've had a handful of metal minis on the edges of the 4x4's and there's hardly any deflection.

Finally, here's a photo of a pirate ship where I used 2 of the 4x4's to elevate the deck, and then the 2x2's to create a lookout's nest. Everything was quite sturdy (the floors of the ship are cardstock).

Safe as in how? Plastic model cement doesn't weld PLA like it does styrene models. It doesn't stick very well, either. Super glue is good, but it tends to fog the plastics. I have found this stuff - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HNFLMY - to be the best. It actually does weld the plastic together, similar to model cement.

Don't worry about heat. Conformal coating isn't going to insulate anything so much it over-heats. Unless you put on like 20 coats of the stuff maybe.

By the way, you should probably use silicone conformal coating instead of acrylic. It's a little more durable, and not quite as nasty to work on. Personally I prefer the liquid over aerosol. It's much easier to make sure you get everything coated well, and the fumes aren't quite as bad.

What I ended up doing was buying this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Sugru-SMLT8-Hardware-Sealer-8-Pack/dp/B008URBC9I

I got the black rubber compound and wrapped the end to support the head. I made sure to press the head into the charger port to ensure the head would be flush when the compound cured. It worked perfectly.

Base model Blade 15 2018 with 1060

For best thermals:

Thermal pads and liquid metal

as well as this conformal coating to prevent the liquid metal from allowing conduction to happen.



in ThrottleStop


for performance
and for Battery

Then if you want to get even better thermals
this cooling pad giving me these idle temps and these temps in Assassins Creed Odyssey after 3 hours of play Connected to my Core X Chroma.


With 32gb of RAM and 4tb of storage between the 2tb sata and the 2tb nvme drives it's my work computer with A couple VMs running and lots of chrome tabs and my main PC when i'm home plugged into the core.

if you don't like the Razer logo on the back you can get a dbrand skin on it with no logo cutout

The bung did not want to stay in initially. I think because I had pulled it from the sanitized water so to make sure it wasn't going anywhere and ruining the works I secured it with some gaffers tape.

Unrelated pro tip from photo and video experience. Decent gaffers tape is much better for securing non paper items than duck tape. It wont leave a sticky mess and its just as strong if not stronger than duck tape.

This is what I use and love

Kroil: http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420942400&sr=8-1&keywords=kroil

I recently did an accidental long term storage test on my guns. I didn't have nearly the same amount of rust you do but... /u/moveman61 recommend Kroil to me. It worked wonders.

Steps:
Strip 870 (stock included)
Spray Kroil on affected areas
Let sit for 10-15 min
Use brass brush
Wipe clean

From here you have 1 of 2 choices

A: Apply oil to prevent future rust
B: degrease and paint it

In the past I have used black spray paint that is meant to go on grills. Its a cheap (bubba) solution compared to more expensive paints and it has worked quite nicely for me in the past. I wouldn't use this method on a nicer gun but for the standard black 870 it works great. If you're worried about matching colors just go ahead and clean/paint the barrel as well. As long as you do a decent spray job nobody will even notice. I even had one guy ask me how I kept the finish so nice over the years. It took him a second to realize there was paint on it.

I bought a set of WearEver stainless, induction-ready pans several years ago and they're still like new. The nonstick is completely unscratched, everything seems top-notch. I expect they will last me a lifetime, but you can certainly spend a lot more and get some which are nicer in some way.

The only thing I don't like about them is the lid handles get hot; I coated mine with PlastiDip but idk if that is safe for the oven; I only use these on the stovetop.

So when I discovered pb blaster, it was amazing. Stuff worked so much better than the other products I used. Then I got into the trades and a couple of the old timers swore by a product called Aero Kroil. I refuse to use anything else now. Literally works 20x better than pb blaster. Stuff is amazing. I have never had it fail to break anything loose.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

Also they make Sili Kroil which adds a silicon type lubricant, which works 10,000 times better than WD40 for lubricating.

http://www.amazon.com/SiliKroil-Penetrating-Solvent-aerosol-SILIKROIL/dp/B0003041WK

I actually made it. Cost me somewhere around $75 if I remember correctly. Buy all the materials listed below for the size/quantity you want, and then I custom printed and cut clear labels for the top and sides of the jar. The magnets are glued to the inside of the jar lids. If you get them strong enough they will never slide or slip. The ones I list can get about a half inch from the stainless base before they won't go back.

Stainless Steel Backplate - You can order in a lot of places - but make sure you have the correct steel makeup. Not all stainless is magnetic!

Superglue - Any standard superglue should work.

Magnets - It would seem that they don't sell these magnets anymore, but it should be easy to find something similar.

4oz Glass Hex Jars w/ Lids - This was the most reliable source at the time.

I sprayed a door/window sensor and magnet with Plasti Dip and then mounted the sensor to the gate and the magnet to the wall. I would have preferred to mount the sensor to the wall and the magnet to the gate, but there wasn't enough clearance between the gate and the wall for the sensor.

I figured I would try it and see if it would fail after a few weeks or not and so far, so good. It has been on for about 10+ months and has survived the weather in Arizona (heat, thunderstorms and sandstorms).

The tape used for mounting (I don't think I used the standard tape it came with) has also held up well. I did make sure to scrub the area with an alcohol swab or two before mounting.

When it is time to replace the battery, I'll remove the coating, which can be peeled off, replace the battery, spray it again, and then remount.

The black coating makes it blend in to the black frame of the gate, so it does not stand out, which is nice, and I am getting ready to do the same for another gate real soon.

(This is my first post, so I'm not sure how to add a picture of it.)

You can't, I've destroyed mine and installed PEI.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBGJU5S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stick it down with this stuff here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you use this stuff you just wipe it with rubbing alcohol to clean the surface. Then it gives you near perfectly smooth prints where it touches the surface. The prints pop off easy after it cools but holds tight when it's warm. Personally I find it a waste of money to buy glue sticks/hair spray if you don't have to. Although I did buy glass I never installed it after this worked so well. It's amazing stuff and you'll never have to replace it.

I think I understand your issue. What you're saying is that there is something about the construction of the C3 helmet which makes it difficult to wedge the clamp mechanism in.

There is discussion about this issue here. Post #23 explains it clearly.:

> I have the C3 Pro, and don't know the C3 at all. With the C3 Pro there is an internal collar that goes around the inner perimeter of the helmet. The collar is mounted to the perimeter very tightly. If you have C3 Pro you surely know what I mean. Anything that's mounted on the edge of the helmet will interfere with this collar. So the collar must be cut to mount the 20S unless you use the adhesive method. Hence, I chose the adhesive to minimize the damage.


If I understand the issue well, then you have two options. You can either use an attached adhesive mount (I am not sure what is included with the camera), or you can use a product like Sugru which is a type of rubber that sets (which can be removed by cutting afterwards). I use Sugru to attach my GoPro to my chin vent. It works very well and is very easy to do.

Edit: According to the thread I linked above, people are saying that it can also be done by installing the clamp near the rear, and then pushing it into the front. There is also a reply by Sena customer service on this issue, which suggests that it may be made easier if there were thinner foam pads included with your package.

Regardless of the nature of whether it is possible for you to squeeze it through from the rear, I still highly recommend the Sugru option. It is waterproof, heat resistant, can be molded and removed easily, and costs £2 a pop.

You should try it yourself! It is super easy and if you mess up it come off really well. You can get some spray stuff on amazon. It works just like spray paint http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006SU3QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1406342789&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Actually, his second guide tells you all about paint! His guides are VERY useful, and if you're interested, he also does a weekly Q&A livestream via Google Hangouts where you can ask questions about foam fabrication (among other things, usually) and he answers them right then and there! If you follow his Facebook page, he will post who his guest for the week (if any) is, and what time he's streaming.

I hope this helps you out! (To be honest, I'm not a big fan of making armor out of foam, but I've been giving it more of a shot lately. For the foam things that I HAVE made, I've used Plasti-Dip to seal, and then whatever color of spray paints I need, followed by acrylics for details/weathering.)

Edit - Formatting & a word

Great list!
just placed an order for the Instamorph, I can think of a lot of things I can use it for.

another good thing to keep handy is JB Weld, it has saved me countless times.

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8265S-Original-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416784847&sr=1-1

I only really use superglue for magnets and the very few amount of resin models we have, but i really like this one: Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Nb9KDbT7PGKD6 because i have an insane amount of control over the amount that comes out, it is a pretty small bottle as far as i can tell though so if you need a lot of glue, i wouldn't recommend it.

Here is the exact resin I use
I've found with careful control of resin temperature and slow mixing of small batches you can get a nearly bubble-free pour. These pieces are also 1x1x1.5" so they are quite small.

My initial test build had millions of bubbles but by changing a few parameters (dont store resin in the cold basement, mix with proper cups and a mixing spoon) I got something I was happy with!

Also this is regular clear epoxy resin just marked down for tables so that could be why they charge less for it.

Has anyone had any luck using different resin? Art Resin like /u/peterb77 used is pretty expensive for a smaller amount. I was looking on amazon and you can get a lot more for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B01LYK2NAG/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1502468813&sr=8-18&keywords=resin
This will be my first but hopefully not my last resin project.

I originally looked to fit the seachem bottles with pumps but couldn't find anything that'd fit. It's just a big bottle with a little opening. Here's the bottles I ended up buying. And here's the plasti-dip I used. Although I bought the plasti-dip at the local Lowes for less than Amazon sells it for.

Edit: while getting the link for those bottles, I found a pack of black bottles in the list of related items. More expensive, but it'd have probably been easier. Link

Could you provide some photos? I'm a big fan of CA glue, it sets almost instantly after you activate it, and it's super strong.

This is the glue I love, I also use insta-set which is a spray that will make the glue dry in seconds so you can keep working on the same part without stopping for a bit, great stuff.

I read a study someone had done in the past few months, and oddly enough, testing PLA specific glues and other various specialty glues, the study concluded that Loctite Gel Ultra Control Superglue drastically outperformed all of the other glues as far as ease of use and overall strength bond. That being the case, I've been using it to assemble the 20" Voltron model I've been printing since Christmas and it's worked wonderfully.

link

A dab of super glue and you'll be back in business. I like the gel stuff. Really good.

Sure can!

Get one of these sheets from Mcmaster carr:
12"x12" 3/32nd thick sheet of Ultim PEI plastic
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8685K41

Stick it to the existing glass with this adhesive:
3M 468MP transfer adhesive
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ

Trim it to fit, then print on it as you normally would. remember to re-adjust your Z stop to compensate. For ABS at least I have not found anything that works better so far, and I've tried most things. You don't need ABS slurry with it, you can print without brim, things just stick, and then release when cooled off. Polyethalene Tape is garbage compared to this stuff. It's by far the best upgrade you can do for your printer after the heated bed itself, and it costs under $40 to do. If you are having trouble getting things to stick to your bed, this is the way to go. It supposedly works just as well for PLA, though I have not tested that personally.

If you are worried about it, you can buy medical grade cyanoacrylate (for veterinarians) on Amazon, but I just use regular ol' super glue and an accelerator (although accelerator's not really necessary unless you're using thicker CA like a gel).

Sure thing. This is the pin vise I used, including the 3mm bit. The 5mm bit I used is just a regular titanium drill bit, turned by hand, and you can get that on Amazon or at any hardware store. You'll need superglue to affix the magnets (any will work), and Kneadatite/green stuff to fill gaps. Other than that you just need the magnets themselves- these are the 5mm ones I used, and these are the 3mm.

super glue that i used

has worked great for reattaching an x-wing laser cannon and 2 pegs

my raider came with the front peg holder broken off, so every time i put it on or off peg i fear it will break again, but that damn super glue connection almost seems the strongest part of the ship now lol

I have always used 3 cables tied together with these [VELCRO wraps](VELCRO Brand - Sticky Back Hook and Loop Fasteners| Perfect for Home or Office | 5ft x 3/4in Roll | Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IC2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mLODDb57DXZ66) cut to size. And I got 3 different colored electrical tapes to have each cable color coded. For the proper input/output. You can even cut a small piece of tape to put on you pedal/amp input/output/send/return to make it foolproof. There are more expensive solutions. But this has always worked for me and is pretty inexpensive. I definitely don’t recommend cable ties as they will damage cables over time.

This stuff is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B007OXK1AK

Much stronger attachment than normal velcro, and can be removed cleanly (might just need a bit of goo-gone to get all the residue)

I haven't had a need to put any on my synths, but I use it to hold pretty much everything else together.

Just do what you did before but try again. Make it a little nicer looking if you want. Velcro tape is your friend if you'll need to redo it or take out/add cables. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00006IC2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PmnTDb926W3QT

This would be great to fill small dents in the floor. Just drip it in. Dries clear. If you use a wood putty of any kind, from 10 feet away, it will look like you dropped something on the floor https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474861033&sr=8-2&keywords=loctite+glue

I immediately took the stock tape off because I knew it wouldn't hold up well. I also wanted the ability to remove the entire mount whenever I wanted so I used this 3M heavy duty fasteners instead. It's like velcro except that it uses thick plastic prongs rather than fibers to bind itself together. It also has better adhesive on the backing. I've hit my AP countless times with my knee, accidentally yanked on the cord, as well as taken high G force corners and it has never ever fallen off. I've had it mounted like this for almost a year.

ok, since it's pla your solvent choices are limited. Acetone might soften the pla up a bit, making it easier to remove, but since it's only going to work at best partially (it doesn't actually work on pla, only on whatever other additive plastics are present in the brand of pla you have) you really have only a few choices, and they're all nasty chemicals. Tetrahydrofuran, and Ethyl Acetate are the two I know off the top of my head. They're both moderately nasty stuff and possibly cancer causing so take care if you decide to try them. It might be easier and safer to get some of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plastic-Cement-Applicator-Bottle/dp/B0149IG548/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470760033&sr=8-1&keywords=ips+weld+on+3

from the reviews it seems that it's a pretty effective pla solvent, so letting some of that sit on the glass for a few minutes might remove the discoloration.

Sorry one last favor: could you recommend a CA?

I see the following that I looked up on Amazon, but if there is some other one you recommend, please do:

1

2

3

4

This is sugru! http://www.amazon.com/Sugru-SMLT8-Hardware-Sealer-8-Pack/dp/B008URBC9I

pretty cool stuff that you mold by hand and it cures at room temperature.

This is what I use on my projects and it works very well for table tops, bar tops, etc. This would not be appropriate for your garage floor, as it's a very different type of resin than the garage floor kits.

I was thinking to use these

Scotch(R) Heavy-Duty Fasteners, 2 Sets of 1 x 3 Inches, Strips ,Black (RFD7091) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00347A8GM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iG22xbGPR59SP

I use them them to mount everything in my house. You can stick one on the back of the base station mount and one on the wall. These things are quite strong as well so they could definitely handle the weight of the base stations.

Buy the Jeff Bezos model
Garden Torch
JB Weld
Airsoft Rifle

If you want an actual flame thrower then give your money to these people X15

Or fill a super soaker with gasoline and save $500.

Is it just regular black plasti dip like this?

Or is it some special stuff, like a kit, matte, glossy, etc.?

Thanks again! Def going with your plan.

https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/

It's more like spray paint. It works super well.

I use either LPS-2 or ACF-50, only because that's what we use on our aircraft, and that's where my tools are. Also, I think they smell nice.

I'd say LPS-2 lubricates better, but ACF-50 has better long term corrosion protection. But any lube is better than no lube, even 3-1 oil.

You might be interested in QLC+ (it's free and open source) and an Enttec DMX USB Pro mk I (same company as the DMXIS, but a hundred bucks less). I've programmed a show for a buddy's band to their click track and had a generally positive time with it. I'm a professional lighting nut, so I thought it was a bit restrictive, but that's more of a problem I have with preprogrammed shows than with the software.

Take the $200 you'd save with this control scheme instead and spent it on safety cables, velcro cable ties, a storage bin for your cables, computer, and DMX adapter, gaff tape, and pizza for when you get together to program and jam the first time!

Those links probably aren't the best options for each thing, I just wanted to link examples.

Also known as Ultem, it can be purchased here from CSHyde. There are several options there for size and thickness. The bonus is that these sheets come with adhesive already laminated to the sheet. I believe you can also get custom sizes, although larger sheets are no problem to cut to size.

Alternatively (and probably more common), you can purchase PEI sheets here on Amazon. The recommended adhesive (transfer tape) is here, and there may be other sizes for both available on Amazon as well as wBay.

The whole idea on using PEI as a print surface is that you get good print adhesion with most common print materials. Using a heated bed with PEI works great for getting prints to stick while warm, and also pop off of the print bed fairly easily as the bed cools.

I went with the stuff from CSHyde for convenience, but I think most users here are going with the Amazon stuff (they have thicker sheets which many users prefer as it can last longer before needing replacement).

I went from Gen 5 to 6, get these with some velcro. Stick next to your right knee on the transmission tunnel for a good cell phone holder.

If you need a front plate, ZL1 Addons makes a great one I can vouch for.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-squares-Converted-Adhesive-Transfer/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily

Try something like this

And a blow torch to run over the top to release the bubbles. The bubbles are introduced from stiring the epoxy and just natural permeation. If you know someone with a vacuum chamber you can ensure ZERO bubbles.

"A gaffer in the motion picture industry and on a television crew is the head electrician, responsible for the execution (and sometimes the design) of the lighting plan for a production. The term gaffer originally related to the moving of overhead equipment to control lighting levels using a gaff. The gaffer's assistant is the best boy.[1]

Sometimes the gaffer is credited as Chief Lighting Technician (CLT)."
-Wikipedia

Side note: that's why the black tape used to secure/hide cords is called gaffer's tape

"In US and Canadian filmmaking, the key grip supervises all grip (lighting and rigging) crews and reports to the director of photography.[1]"
-Wikipedia

So the Key Grip is similar to the Gaffer, but has a focus on things like dollies, cranes, vehicles, etc.

welcome!
yeah most build videos i've seen usually omit them too, but it's usually cuz those people are accustomed to building so many. HELL, the other day i was calibrating my ESC's and for some reason blheli decided to make my motors go bat shit crazy (props off of course). Lucky, the smoke stopper didn't allow it to draw too much power. so yeah you just never know.
remembered a few more.

• liquid electrical tape
  
• multimeter
  
• exacto knife
  
• velcro.. and velcro battery straps
  
• hot glue gun
  
• 3M Dual Lock velcro.. this is for lipos in addition to battery strap. While a battery strap will HUG the battery to the kwad it's still liable to SLIDE out on a crash. This stuff is intense and will prevent the lipo from sliding. When applying to frame and lipo heat up the adhesive first with a blow dryer (heat gun in your case ;)) and then attach. The heat makes it SUPER STICKY.
  
• ammo can or lipo bag for lipo storage
  
• rubber bands.. i use those FAT rubber bands from broccoli to wrap around my lipo and keep my balance lead secure. I also have a few of these that work great
  
• also.. because you'll eventually want one.. start looking into an HD camera.. i personally have a runcam2 and love it.. the gopro5 is the more common one.. especially with bestBuy accidental plan.. the runcam3 is set to release here sometime soon.
  
  I've learned to prevent my battery straps from breaking (and they do) put a slab of hot glue near the plastic loop where it attaches to itself.. this part of the velcro is week on EVERY strap and this is where all of mine have broken from. After slapping a glob of hot glue in this location (both sides) i have yet to break one (well now i probably will, LOL).

It's likely Plasti-dip or similar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006SU3QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491024471&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=plasti+dip

You may have better luck with Silicone conformal coating:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SPJOKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491024482&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=conformal+coating

Silicone is more expensive, but has better temperature resistance.

Try getting Gel Superglue (like this). Apply a decent dob in the joints, then plop the arms in there and hold for 15 seconds. You can still move them a tad after, but they won't fall out. Let them set for a few minutes before putting any large amount of tension on them and you should be golden.

Second option is to use an accelerator, like this. Apply glue to the joint, then spray/dip the arm ball in kicker, and put it into the joint. This will set very quickly. It's also exothermic, so if you get glue on your hands and don't notice, then get kicker on there, it can be fairly painful.

Last, a helping-hands can be quite useful if you have it laying around. I use this one for electronics, and it works pretty well holding awkward model parts for letting glue set.

Dual lock velcro also does a fantastic job at helping to hold a battery still if you're looking for a slightly more refined solution.

I dunno, I look online at my local stores inventory and I see "black duct tape" and some that say "no residue" but I dont know if they are actual gaffers tape (which is more like a cloth and not shiny plastic) like I would use at a show.


Ill have to see in person next time I go, if so it would make things easier for me to get it in a pinch for work.


Like if you check lowes or homedepot I dont see anything called gaffers tape or gaffe tape available here. If you go to guitarcenter.com you do.
I dont know if its just a labeling thing or not though.



You may already know this (sorry if so) but this is what Im talking about

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Gaffer-GafferPower-Available-Multiple/dp/B00GZE3UJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527720749&sr=8-1&keywords=gaffer+tape

its a cloth tape that leaves no residue and is very easy to tear

If the cracked lid casing is the common problem shown in the photograph here there's a pretty easy fix:

Apply a small spot of J-B Weld embedded with a small finishing nail laid across the break for extra reinforcement in the area shown in the photograph here.

You just need to remove the screen bezel and temporarily push aside the antenna wires. Make sure everything is aligned and let it set up for about 24 hours and the bond will be virtually impossible to break. I've done this on a number of X220 and X230 units and it holds up really well.

Check out JB Weld. Best damn epoxy ever. Used it to fix a similar problem on an old Dell. Just make sure you clean and sand each piece you apply it to. The sanding is to rough up the surface so you get a better bond.

Happy to help! Target sells it, if you want it locally. You can buy online from Sugru or Amazon
You can search for nearby retailers a full list on Sugur's site.

Kroil is much better than PB Blaster. Get a can and use it sparingly. https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518798021&sr=8-1&keywords=aerokroil

A good quality ratchet can be better than a cheap breaker bar at times. However, a good breaker bar is a very valuable tool. Also in this case, the proper tool would have been a crows foot and a breaker bar. You don't need crows feet very often, but when you need them you need them, and they really aren't too expensive.

I use this - 3M Dual Lock Plastic Velcro along with a typical normal Velcro strap. That battery will not move, I promise. The 3M is incredibly strong for front to back movement and they regular strap also helps prevent it from lifting up.

I've had the battery eject from my quad ONCE, but that's only because it ripped the shrink wrap off of the battery pack! The 3M held it in place lol the shrink wrap was still attached to the quad.

Battery Pic - http://imgur.com/jVvQyWX

This is the stuff I use at work (computer repair); it works fine for gluing feet back onto laptops so it should be good for your keyboard. Pretty much any hardware store should have it.

Citadel green stuff is overpriced. Next time get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Same stuff, just different packaging and several times better value.

You could try this stuff. Plasti Dip.
Not sure how the clear would look. I've used the black, and blaze orange on my hand tools and it holds up quite well.

The original LEGO design has the same design flaw - the magnets are just too strong. (kinda need to be) I tried to do this without using glue as well but at the end of the day, it really makes no difference. I would suggest Loctite. I used it with my lepin ISD and everything went fine. (almost 2 years now)

Just four dabs on the magnet holder studs will do just fine. The ones that have an extra lego piece, glue those 4 studs too. If I recall correctly, all the magnet location instructions should be fine and everything should line up but the glue really isn't all that permanent. I have sometimes pried off glued pieces using a knife and/or pliers with minimal damage.

If you are having issues with the wings falling apart, make sure to apply a lot of pressure on a flat, level surface to ensure all the long panels are inserted all the way. It takes a bit of force with the real LEGO pieces because of the size but sometimes a bit more with lepin.

I had a much easier time with the UCS Venator because of my UCS ISD lepin experience, but that one has some different issues.

No problem. CA is just super glue. I use Loctite Ultra Gel. It's nice and thick so I can apply it with a lot of control. I just use a needle in a pin vise to apply it and then once it's built up and dried on the needle, I burn it off with a lighter to refresh the needle.

What kind of paints are you looking for? It's hard to specify brands since they all kinda have their own place. I personally prefer to use lacquers out of my airbrush, so my go to paints for that are Mr Paint, Gunze Mr Color, and Tamiya. For brush painting, I like to use Vallejo Model Color acrylics. Ammo of Mig and AK Interactive have a good line of acrylic paints, but they don't brush as well, IMO, as Vallejo Model Color. You should be able to google them all and find them. If you need links I can get them, but I'm also on mobile right now so it's a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're in the US, I do my paint shopping at Hobbyworld-USA.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me, I'm happy to help.

Do you have a link to these on amazon or wal-mart set up where they can be shipped directly to you?

For Example: http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Sticky-Back-Fastener-Dispenser-90086/dp/B00006IC2L/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1377053995&sr=8-6&keywords=Sticky+Back+Velcro

But you will need to create a wish list with a ship to address (hidden) so that we can just add it to our cart and have it shipped right out to you ;)

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B007OXK1AK

Something like this may work best.

one more thing you can do , especially on tricky parts, or parts that you have unsuccessfully mated is :

take a hobby knife or exacto, and make several dozen marks on the surface area (only where it will be covered up by the other part of course) make like a "cross-hatch" pattern of score marks with your blade on the matting surfaces of both parts.

that gives the glue hundreds of little valleys to seep down into and make an extra strong bond.

If that doesnt work, lol, then you have to pin it.

If THAT doesnt work, you just need to quit this hobby and go back to your PS4.


I really fail to understand your issue with the gorilla glue, i think it is the BOMB.

Are you using THIS???
http://www.amazon.com/4-oz-Original-Gorilla-Glue/dp/B0001GAYRC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422669512&sr=8-4&keywords=gorilla+super+glue

Thats not what you want!!

You want THIS
http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422669512&sr=8-1&keywords=gorilla+super+glue

Another reason i love the gorilla superglue is it doesnt make nearly as much cyoacrylate stain (white stain from the fume or offgassing of the glue while curing)


I dont know why im talking so much about glue tonight.

This is a popular method. Also, if it doesn't work, you can use something like JB Weld Epoxy (thanks /u/Boomerkuwanga) to attach another small screw to the top of it, let it set, then screw it out with whatever normal driver works for the screw you attached. I'd heard of this method using superglue, but apparently the JB weld is much better!

The $6 fix; JB Weld epoxy.

The bond will end up being stronger than the plastic. It might look a little ugly, but for $6 it's the best option as far as price/performance.

conformal coat EVERYTHING you can (https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6). use 'sensor-safe' silicone gasket maker everywhere. It's actually more than just damage, I got water in my HK Swamp Dawg airboat RX and it went full throttle, rather than failsafe. I was holding it, having just gotten it out of the water, draining it. I almost bit me.

also, consider a cheap gyro, really helps with wind, turning and super fun drifting.

This Stuff which is great to prevent the issue you mentioned:

>The one in the video (Loctite Gel). But it just sits like a wet gel spot forever. And as soon as you touch it, it superglues your fingers.

This will cause the inverse issue where if you leave your fingers touching the glue and spray then thats it forever. Your skin or your model is breaking after that.

Get yourself some Kano Kroil from Amazon and spray it down liberally. Wait 24 hours and then try to take the bolt off. I use said spray consistently at work to free up bolts that have rusted solid on 2000° boilers. It is worth every penny.

Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ.IDb8RWT79K

Gorilla Super Glue 15 Gram, Clear

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_81BvCb9WYWRQ3

Thank you! I use this one from Amazon :)

7 coats of black and 5 coats of gold. :)

4 cans should be enough for four wheels and I think 3 is enough for the gold. :)

It should work with the slant. From what i can see in the picture it seems a grommet would fit perfectly in that hole. Once you get the grommet in, if you want an added layer of hold(on the downstem/the grommet) wrap over the grommet with some Sugru. Some people will probably tell you not to use sugru because of the lower temperature threshold, however I wouldn't worry too much because the downstem/grommet won't be getting too hot from smoking a bowl.

First of all, are the cracks down near the bottom corners? If so, there is something you can try. I've seen a "repair," but it was on a polycarbonate container, not on the Tritan material, which your container is, assuming it is a home model from 7-10 years ago. So I'm not if it will work, but you could try it. The repair I saw used JB Weld to reinforce the outside of the corners. I don't know if the JB Weld sticks better to polycarbonate than Tritan, but it's worth a shot if you are looking for a repair.

The other thing you can do is look for a container without blade and lid, and transfer over your blade assembly. There's a wrench you can buy specifically for the task, or you can jury rig something. You have to be careful not to under or over tighten.

KennKatastrophe is right that Vitamix would just replace the container shell.

Hey hey!!! I know your struggles, so not many students at my university knew this, but it's a quick way to glue stuff. Buy any cynocralyte glue, good one though like insta cure. Then buy an accelerator preferably one that sets clear. You only need a little bit of glue then as a drop of accelerator. Usually I would have small dab a glue and a small plastic I could put a small amount on bass wood the place and add drop of accelerator. Here is link to some

Bob Smith Industries BSI-157H Maxi Cure/Insta-Set Combo Pack (3 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFCHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_28BGDb1PTXAZ0

I believe most hobby shops will carry it as it's used in model making

https://www.dipyourcar.com

Watch some of their vids on YouTube, they are pretty cool.

Here it is on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Performix-11203-Multi-Purpose-Coating-Aerosol/dp/B0006SU3QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=plastidip&qid=1556123766&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Let me know if you need tips.

This sounds like you only had one problem - you don't have epoxy - you should always have, if anything else, a little dual squeeze tube of locktite (or any) two part oil resin based epoxy. This is basically a pantry item, like (quality) duct tape or super glue

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001Z3C3AG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487817131&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=epoxy

Super glue maybe? Maybe check out an adhesive called JB Weld . It’s an all-purpose adhesive that works surprisingly well, especially on items that don’t take a lot of strain or pressure.

I dont get it?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6
is $13 is that out of your price range?
The nice thing about actual conformal coating is that you can solder through the coating or remove it if needed. Had grate luck with it so-fare.

They sell https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Conformal-Coating/dp/B008O9YGQI its about $5 more though, it is an Aerosol. Never used it before though.

I've used this stuff on drones, for flying in the rain (and crashing in wet grass). It's pretty good.

I have had good results with this. I am by no means an expert and used a pressure pot to minimize bubbles, but I liked this stuff. It has worked well on several home projects.

VELCRO - Industrial Strength - 2" Wide Tape, 15' - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006RSP1/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Lu42wbXY3P2CH

That's what I use.

Here is the stuff Pedrotheterror recommended. I have never personally used it though. Seems a bit overkill as well.

3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener TB3550 250/250 Black, 1 in x 10 ft (1 Mated Strip/Bag) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OXK1AK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Fv42wb66S3VNH

I would advise against welding, mainly because of the low melting point of brass. I don't know how your piece is laid out, but I imagine that it would be difficult to keep the heat away from the brass while trying to weld the steel together.

Soldering could work, I don't see why it wouldn't albeit a little frustrating. Brazing is something that came to mind. Another is J.B. Weld. I haven't used J.B. Weld for sealing jump rings, but I've used it as weld filler in a pinch.

Good luck!

Thanks! You'd recommend just a single application of this stuff? Is there anywhere else in particular that ACF50 comes in handy, to justify buying a can?

Penetrating oil. I like this stuff.

You don't want that getting into the system though, so once it's free, soak the area in dish soap and water.

That sets your ball up for corrosion again, so spritz it with Pam or some other food grade oil.

I think Plasti Dip is pretty cool. It's temporary but it protects the metal surface and it looks good too. One cool thing is you can put it on with an HVLP gun or a can. If you screw something up, you can peel that part off and respray it without doing the whole car. There's just no reason to be driving around in a tri-color hoopty with this stuff around.

Thanks.

Green Stuff on Amazon

The thing that irritated me about Amazon (in general - I know it's not really anyone's fault) is that depending on the 3rd party seller, packaging, and intended customer base, the price varied dramatically. The stuff that was clearly listed for hobbyist to use for minis, etc, was $1-$2/inch. After looking around for a bit, I found a 36" roll for about $16.

It's just super glue. Sometimes the thicker gel type is more handy; I prefer something that's in between runny and gel. See if you can get some kicker as well to cure it instantly.

I use this for everything: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0166FFCHS/

A better idea might be to turn it inside out and spray it with some aerosol Plastidip. It is readily available at any home improvement store, or Wal-Mart or whatever.

At first I was like lol, but then I was like, that's not actually a bad idea, if you use this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener/dp/B007OXK1AK

It's really tough.